International Standard Book Number
The International Standard Book Number is a numeric commercial book identifier, intended to be unique. Publishers purchase ISBNs from an affiliate of the International ISBN Agency. An ISBN is assigned to each variation of a book. For example, an e-book, a paperback and a hardcover edition of the same book would each have a different ISBN; the ISBN is 13 digits long if assigned on or after 1 January 2007, 10 digits long if assigned before 2007. The method of assigning an ISBN is nation-based and varies from country to country depending on how large the publishing industry is within a country; the initial ISBN identification format was devised in 1967, based upon the 9-digit Standard Book Numbering created in 1966. The 10-digit ISBN format was developed by the International Organization for Standardization and was published in 1970 as international standard ISO 2108. Published books sometimes appear without an ISBN; the International ISBN agency sometimes assigns such books ISBNs on its own initiative.
Another identifier, the International Standard Serial Number, identifies periodical publications such as magazines and newspapers. The International Standard Music Number covers musical scores; the Standard Book Numbering code is a 9-digit commercial book identifier system created by Gordon Foster, Emeritus Professor of Statistics at Trinity College, for the booksellers and stationers WHSmith and others in 1965. The ISBN identification format was conceived in 1967 in the United Kingdom by David Whitaker and in 1968 in the United States by Emery Koltay; the 10-digit ISBN format was developed by the International Organization for Standardization and was published in 1970 as international standard ISO 2108. The United Kingdom continued to use the 9-digit SBN code until 1974. ISO has appointed the International ISBN Agency as the registration authority for ISBN worldwide and the ISBN Standard is developed under the control of ISO Technical Committee 46/Subcommittee 9 TC 46/SC 9; the ISO on-line facility only refers back to 1978.
An SBN may be converted to an ISBN by prefixing the digit "0". For example, the second edition of Mr. J. G. Reeder Returns, published by Hodder in 1965, has "SBN 340 01381 8" – 340 indicating the publisher, 01381 their serial number, 8 being the check digit; this can be converted to ISBN 0-340-01381-8. Since 1 January 2007, ISBNs have contained 13 digits, a format, compatible with "Bookland" European Article Number EAN-13s. An ISBN is assigned to each variation of a book. For example, an ebook, a paperback, a hardcover edition of the same book would each have a different ISBN; the ISBN is 13 digits long if assigned on or after 1 January 2007, 10 digits long if assigned before 2007. An International Standard Book Number consists of 4 parts or 5 parts: for a 13-digit ISBN, a prefix element – a GS1 prefix: so far 978 or 979 have been made available by GS1, the registration group element, the registrant element, the publication element, a checksum character or check digit. A 13-digit ISBN can be separated into its parts, when this is done it is customary to separate the parts with hyphens or spaces.
Separating the parts of a 10-digit ISBN is done with either hyphens or spaces. Figuring out how to separate a given ISBN is complicated, because most of the parts do not use a fixed number of digits. ISBN is most used among others special identifiers to describe references in Wikipedia and can help to find the same sources with different description in various language versions. ISBN issuance is country-specific, in that ISBNs are issued by the ISBN registration agency, responsible for that country or territory regardless of the publication language; the ranges of ISBNs assigned to any particular country are based on the publishing profile of the country concerned, so the ranges will vary depending on the number of books and the number and size of publishers that are active. Some ISBN registration agencies are based in national libraries or within ministries of culture and thus may receive direct funding from government to support their services. In other cases, the ISBN registration service is provided by organisations such as bibliographic data providers that are not government funded.
A full directory of ISBN agencies is available on the International ISBN Agency website. Partial listing: Australia: the commercial library services agency Thorpe-Bowker.
Good Housekeeping is a women's magazine owned by the Hearst Corporation, featuring articles about women's interests, product testing by The Good Housekeeping Institute, recipes and health, as well as literary articles. It is well known for the "Good Housekeeping Seal", popularly known as the "Good Housekeeping Seal of Approval". On May 2, 1885, Clark W. Bryan founded Good Housekeeping in Holyoke, Massachusetts as a fortnightly magazine. In 1891, the magazine became a monthly publication; the magazine achieved a circulation of 300,000 by 1911, at which time it was bought by the Hearst Corporation. It topped one million in the mid-1920s, continued to rise during the Great Depression and its aftermath. In 1938, a year in which the magazine advertising dropped 22 percent, Good Housekeeping showed an operating profit of $2,583,202, more than three times the profit of Hearst's other eight magazines combined, the most profitable monthly of its time. Circulation topped 2,500,000 in 1943, 3,500,000 in the mid-1950s, 5,000,000 in 1962, 5,500,000 per month in 1966.
1959 profits were more than $11 million. Good Housekeeping is one of a group of women's service magazines. In 1922, the Hearst Corporation created a British edition along the same lines. Famous writers who have contributed to the magazine include Somerset Maugham, Edwin Markham, Edna St. Vincent Millay, Frances Parkinson Keyes, A. J. Cronin, Virginia Woolf, Evelyn Waugh. In 1900, the "Experiment Station", the predecessor to the Good Housekeeping Research Institute, was founded. In 1902, the magazine was calling this "An Inflexible Contract Between the Publisher and Each Subscriber." The formal opening of the headquarters of GHRI - the Model Kitchen, Testing Station for Household Devices, Domestic Science Laboratory - occurred in January 1910. In 1909, the magazine established the Good Housekeeping Seal of Approval. Products advertised in the magazine that bear the seal are tested by GHRI and are backed by a two-year limited warranty. About 5,000 products have been given the seal. In April 1912, a year after Hearst bought the magazine, Harvey W. Wiley, the first commissioner of the U.
S. Food and Drug Administration, became head of GHRI and a contributing editor whose "Question Box" feature ran for decades. Beginning with a "Beauty Clinic" in 1932, departments were added to the Institute, including a "Baby's Center", "Foods and Cookery", a "Needlework Room"; some functioned as testing laboratories. After the passage of the Food and Cosmetic Act in 1938, Assistant Secretary of Agriculture Rexford Tugwell sought to promote a government grading system; the Hearst Corporation opposed the policy in spirit, began publishing a monthly tabloid attacking federal oversight. In 1939, the Federal Trade Commission filed a complaint against Good Housekeeping for "misleading and deceptive" guarantees including its Seal of Approval, "exaggerated and false" claims in its advertisements; the publisher fought the proceedings for two years, during which time competing editors from the Ladies Home Journal and McCall's testified against Good Housekeeping. The FTC's ultimate ruling was against the magazine, forcing it to remove some claims and phraseology from its ad pages.
The words "Tested and Approved" were dropped from the Seal of Approval. But the magazine's popularity was unaffected rising in circulation and profitability. In 1962, the wording of the Seal was changed to a guarantee of "Product or Performance", while dropping its endorsement of rhetorical promises made by the advertisers. In its varying forms, the Seal of Approval became inextricably associated with the magazine, many others mimicked the practice. In 2012, the test kitchen of the Good Housekeeping Research Institute was implemented into a new instructional cooking and exercise TV show on the Cooking Channel, entitled Drop 5 lbs with Good Housekeeping. Good Housekeeping began to be published in the United Kingdom in 1922. William Randolph Hearst appointed Alice Maud Head as assistant editor. Head rose to be the Managing Director, as well as purportedly being the highest paid woman in Europe; as Hearst's deputy, Head would make decisions on his behalf about not just editing, but buying for him St Donat's Castle, expensive art objects, three giraffes for his zoo.
Head remained head until 1939. In Latin America, the magazine was known as Buenhogar and was published in the United States and Latin America by Editorial América. Clark W. Bryan James Eaton Tower William Frederick Bigelow Herbert Raymond Mayes Wade Hampton Nichols, Jr. John Mack Carter Ellen Levine Rosemary Ellis Jane Francisco Consumer Reports John Cecil Clay Nat Mags Official web sites: U. S. edition, including the Good Housekeeping Institute U. K. edition, including the Good Housekeeping Institute Indian edition Russian edition Official subscription site Spanish edition BuenHogar Online archive of the covers of many early issues Official website of the Drop 5 lbs with Good Housekeeping TV show on the Cooking ChannelFrom the Library of Congress: February 1926 issue Today in History: May 2, featuring Good HousekeepingGood Housekeeping at the HathiTrust
Patrick Demarchelier is a French fashion photographer. Born near Paris in 1943 to a modest family, he spent his childhood in Le Havre with his mother and four brothers. For his seventeenth birthday, his stepfather bought him his first Eastman Kodak camera. Demarchelier learned how to develop film, retouch negatives and began photographing friends and weddings. In 1975, he left Paris for New York City to follow his girlfriend, he discovered fashion photography by working as a freelance photographer and learning and working with photographers such as Henri Cartier-Bresson, Terry King, Jacque Guilbert. His work drew the attention of Marie Claire and 20 Ans Magazine, he worked for Vogue and Harper's Bazaar, first in September 1992 which resulted in a 12-year collaboration. Demarchelier has shot international advertising campaigns for Dior, Louis Vuitton, Celine, TAG Heuer, Donna Karan, Yves Saint Laurent, Tommy Hilfiger, Carolina Herrera, Vera Wang, Elizabeth Arden, H&M, Sam Edelman, Max Azria, Longchamp, Lacoste, Ann Taylor, Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren.
Since the late 1970s he has shot the covers for nearly every major fashion magazine including American and Paris Vogue. He has shot covers for Rolling Stone, Life, Newsweek and Mademoiselle, he has photographed many advertising campaigns, including Farrah Fawcett shampoo in 1978, the Brooke Shields doll in 1982, Lauren by Ralph Lauren, Cutty Sark, a Calvin Klein ad with Talisa Soto and Giorgio Armani, Chanel, GAP, Gianni Versace, L'Oréal, Elizabeth Arden, Lancôme, Gianfranco Ferré. He was the primary photographer for the book On Your Own, a beauty/lifestyle guide written for young women by Brooke Shields. Since 1992 he has worked with Harper's Bazaar. Demarchelier was awarded the contract for the 2005 Pirelli Calendar. Over the years he has helped the careers of many make-up artists like Laura Mercier, Jason Marks and Pat McGrath. Demarchelier is referenced in the 2006 film The Devil Wears Prada, when the "dragon lady", Miranda Priestly, asks Andy, on her first day on the job, "Did Demarchelier confirm?", leaving her utterly confused.
The first assistant Emily calmly jumps into action and calls his office, replying, "I have Patrick!". He appears in the documentary The September Issue, about Anna Wintour and American Vogue, he was called to do last-minute photographs for Grace Coddington after Edward Enninful were not sufficient. Demarchelier appeared in a cameo in the film version of the City, he was featured prominently in the sixth episode of Cycle 15 of America's Next Top Model. He was listed as one of the fifty best-dressed over 50s by The Guardian in March 2013. In 2007, Christine Albanel, French Minister of Culture, honored Demarchelier as an Officer in l'ordre des Arts et des Lettres. Demarchelier has lived in New York City since 1975, he is married to Mia and they have twins. In February 2018, Demarchelier was accused by seven models. In response to the allegations, Condé Nast announced "e have informed Patrick we will not be working with him for the foreseeable future." Official website Patrick Demarchelier at FMD Demarchelier at Luminous LintSome of his most famous photographsChristy Turlington New York 1992 Nadja Auermann Paris 1994 Nadja New York 1995
Isabella "Issie" Blow was an English magazine editor. The muse of hat designer Philip Treacy, she is credited with discovering the models Stella Tennant and Sophie Dahl as well as the fashion designer Alexander McQueen. Born Isabella Delves Broughton in Marylebone, she was the eldest child of Major Sir Evelyn Delves Broughton, a military officer, his second wife, Helen Mary Shore, a barrister. Sir Evelyn was the only son of Jock Delves Broughton. Blow had two sisters and Lavinia; this had a profound effect on her. In 1972, when she was 14, her parents separated and her mother left the household, bidding each daughter farewell with a handshake, her parents divorced two years later. Isabella did not get along with her father, who bequeathed her only £5,000 from his estate, worth more than one million pounds. Blow studied for her A-levels at Heathfield School, after which she enrolled at a secretarial college and took odd jobs; as she told Tamsin Blanchard of The Observer in 2002: I've done the most peculiar jobs.
I was working in a scone shop for years. I was a cleaner in London for two years. I wore a handkerchief with knots on the side, my cousin saw me in the post office and said, What are you doing? I said, What do you think I look like I'm doing? I'm a cleaner! Blow moved to New York City in 1979 to study Ancient Chinese Art at Columbia University and shared a flat with the actress Catherine Oxenberg. A year she left the Art History programme at Columbia, moved to Texas, worked for Guy Laroche. In 1981 she married her first husband, Nicholas Taylor, was introduced to the fashion director of the US edition of Vogue, Anna Wintour. Blow was hired as Wintour's assistant, but it was not long before she was assisting André Leon Talley, as of 2008 US Vogue's editor-at-large. While working in New York, she befriended Jean-Michel Basquiat, she returned to London in 1986 and worked for Michael Roberts the fashion director of Tatler and The Sunday Times Style magazine. During this period she was romantically linked to editor Tim Willis.
In 1989, Blow married her second husband and art dealer Detmar Hamilton Blow, a grandson of the early 20th-century society architect Detmar Blow, in Gloucester Cathedral. Philip Treacy designed the bride's wedding headdress and a now-famous fashion relationship was forged. Realizing Treacy's talent, Blow established Treacy in her London flat, where he worked on his collections, she soon began making them a signature part of her flamboyant style. In a 2002 interview with Tamsin Blanchard, Blow declared that she wore extravagant hats for a practical reason: to keep everyone away from me, they say, Oh, can I kiss you? I say, No, thank you much. That's. Goodbye. I don't want to be kissed by sundry. I want to be kissed by the people. In 1993 she worked with the photographer Steven Meisel producing the Babes in London shoot, which featured Plum Sykes, Bella Freud and Honor Fraser. Blow had a good feeling for future fashion directions, she discovered Alexander McQueen and purchased his entire graduate collection for £5,000, paying it off in weekly £100 instalments.
Spotting Sophie Dahl, Blow described her as "a blow up doll with brains", launched the model's career. Blow supported both the art world. Artists Tim Noble and Sue Webster created a shadow portrait of her, displayed in the National Portrait Gallery. Blow was the fashion director of Tatler and consulted for DuPont Lycra and Swarovski, she became the subject of an exhibition in 2002 entitled When Philip met Isabella, which featured sketches and photographs of her wearing Treacy's hat designs. In 2004 she had a brief acting cameo playing a character called Antonia Cook in the film The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou. Blow starred in 2005 in a project by artist Matthieu Laurette and produced by Frieze Projects 2005 and entitled "What Do They Wear at Frieze Art Fair?" It consisted of daily guided tours of Frieze Art Fair led by Blow and fellow international fashion experts Peter Saville, Kira Joliffe, Bay Garnett. Shortly before her death, Blow was the creative director and stylist of a series of books for an Arabic beauty magazine, Alef.
Toward the end of her life, Blow became depressed and was anguished over her inability to "find a home in a world she influenced". Daphne Guinness, a friend of Blow's, stated: "She was upset that Alexander McQueen didn't take her along when he sold his brand to Gucci. Once the deals started happening, she fell by the wayside. Everybody else got contracts, she got a free dress". According to a 2002 interview with Tamsin Blanchard, it was Blow who brokered the deal in which Gucci purchased McQueen's label. Other pressures on her included infertility. Isabella and Detmar Blow separated in 2004. Detmar Blow went on to have an affair with Stephanie Theobald, the society editor of British Harper's Bazaar, while his estranged wife entered into a liaison with a gondolier she met in Venice. During the couple's separation, Blow was diagnosed with bipolar disorder and began undergoing electroshock therapy. For a time, the treatments appeared to be helpful. During this period she had an affair with Matthew Mellon.
Katherine Ann Moss is an English model and businesswoman. Born in Croydon, Greater London, she was discovered in 1988 at age 14 by Sarah Doukas, founder of Storm Model Management, at JFK Airport in New York City. Arriving at the end of the "supermodel era", Moss rose to fame in the mid 1990s as part of the heroin chic fashion trend, her collaborations with Calvin Klein brought her to fashion icon status. She is known for her waifish figure, role in size zero fashion, she received an award at the 2013 British Fashion Awards to acknowledge her contribution to fashion over 25 years. Moss is a contributing fashion editor for British Vogue. Moss has been involved in musical projects, she has won accolades for modelling. In 2007, Time named her one of the world's 100 most influential people, she has inspired cultural depictions including a £1.5m 18 carat gold statue of her, sculpted in 2008 for a British Museum exhibition. She received media scrutiny for her party drug use. Drug allegations beginning in late 2005 led to her being dropped from fashion campaigns.
She was resumed modelling. In 2012, she came second on the Forbes top-earning models list, with estimated earnings of $9.2 million in one year. Moss was born on 16 January 1974 in Croydon, Greater London, the daughter of Linda Rosina, a barmaid, Peter Edward Moss, an airline employee, grew up in the Addiscombe area of the borough, she has a younger brother, a half-sister named Lottie. Moss's parents divorced when she was 13, she attended Riddlesdown High School in Purley. Moss was discovered in 1988 at 14 by Sarah Doukas, founder of Storm Model Management, at JFK Airport in New York, after a holiday in The Bahamas. Corinne Day shot black-and-white photographs of her, styled by Melanie Ward, for The Face when she was 16, in a shoot titled "The 3rd Summer of Love". Moss was presented as a young unknown, Day described the pictures as "dirty realism" or "grunge". Moss featured in the Levi's campaign'Levis for Girls', with great success, set up by The Design Corporation and again shot by Corinne Day.
A further shoot followed for The Face, by Tony Briggs, entitled "Haute Coiffure", Moss went on to become the "anti-supermodel" of the 1990s in contrast to the models of the moment, such as Cindy Crawford, Elle Macpherson, Claudia Schiffer and Naomi Campbell, who were known for curvaceous and tall figures. Moss featured in the fashion look heroin chic in 1996 with a campaign for Calvin Klein. Then-US President Bill Clinton spoke out against the trend. Moss said, "It was just the time, it was a swing from more buxom girls like Cindy Crawford and people were shocked to see what they called a'waif'. What can you say? How many times can you say'I'm not anorexic'?" On 20 September 2005, the Swedish fashion retailer H&M dropped her from its campaign of autumn clothes designed by Stella McCartney because of drug allegations. The contract was worth £4 million a year. A day Chanel said it would not renew its contract with Moss, to expire that October, although its decision had nothing to do with the drug scandal.
Burberry dropped Moss's campaign with them. Moss apologised. Moss appeared in ad campaigns for Dior, she was on the cover of the November 2005 W and inside in a multi-page fashion shoot. She was defended by designer Alexander McQueen, during his walk-out after a fashion show, wore a T-shirt saying "We love you Kate". Artist Stella Vine supported Moss, paintings by Vine, painted during the scandal, were exhibited and reproduced in the press. On 5 January 2006, the London Metropolitan Police asked Moss to return from the US to Britain to answer questions about the September 2005 cocaine scandal. On 16 June 2006, British police dropped the charges for lack of evidence. Moss was cleared of all charges and resumed her modelling career. In 2015 Moss was escorted off an Easyjet flight by police. Moss has been featured in ad campaigns with Chanel, Burberry, Stuart Weitzman, rag & bone, Alexander Wang, David Yurman, Roberto Cavalli, Isabel Marant, Yves Saint Laurent, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Calvin Klein, Alexander McQueen, Equipment and Bulgari.
She has been on the cover and in fashion spreads for most magazines including UK, US, French Vogue, Another Man, Harper's Bazaar, Vanity Fair, the Face, W. She has been on the cover of British Vogue 30 times, shot the inaugural covers for both Russian Vogue with Amber Valletta and Japanese Vogue, in addition to dozens of other international Vogue covers. Moss has been on the cover of 17 issues of W, including one with nine different covers that featured her. W named Moss its muse. Moss has featured on the inaugural covers of Numéro, Numéro Tokyo and Spanish L'Officiel, she has worked extensively with photographers such as Mario Testino, Mario Sorrenti, Steven Klein, Juergen Teller, Steven Meisel and Peter Lindbergh, won the Vogue/CFDA award from the Fashion Designers of America in July 2005 as Fashion Inspiration. April 2005 saw the launch of a Rimmel London mascara TV ad featuring leather-clad Moss motorcycling through London to the rock song "Another Cold Beer" by Steven Crayn. Twelve months after her cocaine scandal, Moss signed 18 contracts for autumn-winter 2006 including Rimmel, Agent Provocateur, Virgin Mobile, Calvin Klein and Burberry.
Moss designed a collection, for Topshop. Moss launched a fragrance and body lotion range bearing her name in association w