Japanese Alpine Club

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Japanese Alpine Club
日本山岳会
Logo japanese alpine club.jpg
SportMountaineering and climbing
AbbreviationJAC
Founded1905 (1905)
HeadquartersTokyo
PresidentMasashi Kobayashi
Official website
jac.or.jp/authorba0a6/
Japan

The Japanese Alpine Club (日本山岳会) (JAC) is a mountaineering and climbing organisation based in Tokyo, Japan.

History[edit]

The Japanese Alpine Club was founded in October 1905 as the first mountaineering club in Asia. In late 19th century modern alpinism had been imported from Europe to Japan; the founding of JAC was inspired by the English Alpine Club.[1]

In 1936 a JAC expedition made first ascent of Nanda Kot (6,861 m / 22,510 ft) in Garhwal Himalaya; this is the first assault by the Japanese in the greater range of Himalaya. The most famous JAC expedition was 1956 the first ascent of Manaslu (8,163 m / 26,781 ft). Toshio Imanishi (Japan) and Gyalzen Norbu Sherpa (Nepal) reached the summit on May 9, 1956.

The club has a special focus on expeditions and exploration of remote areas; the JAC publishes the yearly magazine Japanese Alpine News (JAN).

Expeditions (selection)[edit]

  • 1956: First ascent of Manaslu (8,163 m / 26,781 ft) by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu Sherpa
  • 1970: First ascent Southeast Ridge of Makalu (8,485 m / 27,838 ft) by Yuichi Ozaki and Hajime Tanaka[2]
  • 1980: North face of Mount Everest, by Japanese Couloir (FA) and Hornbein Couloir.[3]
  • 1992: First ascent of Namcha Barwa (7,782 m / 25,531 ft)
  • 1996: First ascent of Ultar II (7,388 m / 24,238 ft) by Akito Yamazaki and Kiyoshi Matsuoka[4]

References[edit]

  1. ^ Hiroyoshi Otsuka: President’s Message. Japanese Alpine News, Vol. 1, October 2001, Retrieved 30 June 2015.
  2. ^ 8000ers.com: Makalu - Routes statistics by Eberhard Jurgalski, Retrieved 30 June 2015.
  3. ^ 8000ers.com: Everest - Routes statistics by Eberhard Jurgalski, Retrieved 30 June 2015.
  4. ^ Japanese Alpine Club: JAC Expeditions, Retrieved 30 June 2015.

External links[edit]