GQ is an international monthly men's magazine based in New York City and founded in 1931. The publication focuses on fashion and culture for men, though articles on food, fitness, music, sports and books are featured. Gentlemen's Quarterly was launched in 1931 in the United States as Apparel Arts, it was a men's fashion magazine for the clothing trade, aimed at wholesale buyers and retail sellers. It had a limited print run and was aimed at industry insiders to enable them to give advice to their customers; the popularity of the magazine among retail customers, who took the magazine from the retailers, spurred the creation of Esquire magazine in 1933. Apparel Arts continued until 1957 when it was transformed into a quarterly magazine for men, published for many years by Esquire Inc. Apparel was dropped from the logo in 1958 with the spring issue after nine issues, the name Gentlemen's Quarterly was established. Gentlemen's Quarterly was re-branded as GQ in 1967; the rate of publication was increased from quarterly to monthly in 1970.
In 1983 Condé Nast bought the publication, editor Art Cooper changed the course of the magazine, introducing articles beyond fashion and establishing GQ as a general men's magazine in competition with Esquire. Subsequently, international editions were launched as regional adaptations of the U. S. editorial formula. Jim Nelson was named editor-in-chief of GQ in February 2003. Nonnie Moore was hired by GQ as fashion editor in 1984, having served in the same position at Mademoiselle and Harper's Bazaar. Jim Moore, the magazine's fashion director at the time of her death in 2009, described the choice as unusual, observing that "She was not from men's wear, so people said she was an odd choice, but she was the perfect choice" and noting that she changed the publication's more casual look, which "She helped dress up the pages, as well as dress up the men, while making the mix more exciting and varied and approachable for men."GQ has been associated with metrosexuality. The writer Mark Simpson coined the term in an article for British newspaper The Independent about his visit to a GQ exhibition in London: "The promotion of metro-sexuality was left to the men's style press, magazines such as The Face, GQ, Arena and FHM, the new media which took off in the Eighties and is still growing...
They filled their magazines with images of narcissistic young men sporting fashionable clothes and accessories. And they persuaded other young men to study them with a mixture of envy and desire." The magazine has expanded its coverage beyond lifestyle issues. For example, in 2003, journalist Sabrina Rubin Erdely wrote an eight-page feature story in GQ on famous con man Steve Comisar. In 2018, writing for GQ, Rachel Kaadzi Ghansah won the Pulitzer Prize for Feature Writing for her article about Dylann Roof, who had shot nine Afro-Americans in a church in Charleston. GQ first named their Men of the Year in 1996, featuring the award recipients in a special issue of the magazine. British GQ launched their annual Men of the Year awards in 2009 and GQ India launched theirs the following year. Spanish GQ launched their Men of the Year awards in 2011 and GQ Australia launched theirs in 2007. In 2010, GQ magazine had a few members of the television show Glee partake in a photoshoot; the sexualization of the actresses in the photos caused controversy among parents of teens who watch the show Glee.
The Parents Television Council was the first to react to the photo spread when it was leaked prior to GQ's planned publishing date. Their President Tim Winter stated, "By authorizing this kind of near-pornographic display, the creators of the program have established their intentions on the show's directions, and it isn't good for families". The photoshoot was published as planned and Dianna Agron went on to state that the photos that were taken did not represent who she is and that she was sorry if anyone was offended by them. GQ's September 2009 U. S. magazine published, in its "backstory" section, an article by Scott Anderson, "None Dare Call It Conspiracy". Before GQ published the article, an internal email from a Condé Nast lawyer referred to it as "Vladimir Putin's Dark Rise to Power"; the article reported Anderson's investigation of the 1999 Russian apartment bombings, included interviews with Mikhail Trepashkin who investigated the bombings while he was a colonel in Russia's Federal Security Service.
The story, including Trepashkin's own findings, contradicted the Russian Government's official explanation of the bombings and criticized Vladimir Putin, the President of Russia. Condé Nast's management tried to keep the story out of Russia, it ordered executives and editors not to distribute that issue in Russia or show it to "Russian government officials, journalists or advertisers". Management decided not to publish the story on GQ's website or in Condé Nast's foreign magazines, not to publicize the story, asked Anderson not to syndicate the story "to any publications that appear in Russia". Within 24 hours of the magazine's publication in the U. S. bloggers published a translation into Russian on the Web. On April 19, 2018, the editors of GQ published an article titled "21 Books You Don’t Have To Read" in which the editors compiled a list of works they think are overrated and should be passed over, including Catcher in the Rye, The Alchemist, Blood Meridian, A Farewell to Arms, The Old Man and the Sea, The Lord of the Rings, Catch-22
An Oxford shoe is characterized by shoelace eyelets tabs that are attached under the vamp, a feature termed "closed lacing". This contrasts with Derbys, or Blüchers, which have shoelace eyelets attached to the top of the vamp. Oxfords were plain, formal shoes, made of leather, but they evolved into a range of styles suitable for formal, uniform, or casual wear. Based on function and the dictates of fashion, Oxfords are now made from a variety of materials, including calf leather and genuine patent leather and canvas, they are black or brown, may be plain or patterned. Oxfords first appeared in Scotland and Ireland, where they are called Balmorals after Balmoral Castle. However, the shoes were named Oxfords after Oxford University; this shoe style did not appear in North America until the 1800s. In the United States, Oxfords are called "Bal-type" as opposed to "Blucher-type". In France, Oxfords are known as Richelieu. Oxfords were derived from the Oxonian, a half-boot with side slits that gained popularity at Oxford University in 1800.
Unlike early shoes, Oxfords were cut smaller than the foot. The side slit evolved into a side lace that moved to the instep, as students rebelled against knee-high and ankle-high boots; the toe cap can either be lined with two narrow rows of stitching, perforated holes along the end cap stitching, perforated holes along the end cap stitching and on the toe cap, or a semi-brogue with the classical wingtip design. The meaning of "Oxford" and "Balmoral" may vary geographically. In the United States, "Balmoral" is synonymous with "Oxford". In the United Kingdom, "Oxford" is sometimes used for any more formal lace-up shoe, including the Blucher and Derby. In Britain and other countries, the Balmoral is an Oxford with no seams, apart from the toe cap seam, descending to the welt, a style common on boots. Shoes with closed lacing are considered more formal than those with open lacing. A particular type of oxford shoe is the wholecut oxford, its upper made from a single piece of leather with only a single seam at the back.
Brogue Derby Blucher Saddle Spectator Wholecut
Byard Lane is a pedestrianised shopping street in the city centre of Nottingham, England located between Fletcher Gate and Bridlesmith Gate. Byard Lane has existed since the Middle Ages when it was known as Walleonelane, Walloonlane or Wooler Lane a corruption of Wall-On Lane as it abutted the town defences. In 1757, the early history of Methodism in the town had its roots here when Mary White hosted John Nelson and other early Methodists in her house in Chapel Court off Byard Lane. Chapel Court has now disappeared. In the early 19th century, the Harlequin Public House and Bakehouse was at the top of the street. In 1866 it became known as Dining Hall Street but it continued to be referred to by its former name and Dining Hall Street was dropped and it reverted over time to Byard Lane. 5, Dining Rooms by Thomas Simpson 1865-66 Grade II listed. 7-9, by Hedley John Price. Grade II listed. 15, Cross Keys Public House. Grade II listed by Robert Evans Robert Evans. 6 Shop for Paul Smith from 1970 until 2017
Penguin Classics is an imprint of Penguin Books under which classic works of literature are published in English, Brazilian Portuguese, Korean among other languages. Literary critics see books in this series as important members of the Western canon, though many titles are translated or of non-Western origin; the first Penguin Classic was E. V. Rieu's translation of The Odyssey, published in 1946, Rieu went on to become general editor of the series. Rieu sought out literary novelists such as Robert Graves and Dorothy Sayers as translators, believing they would avoid "the archaic flavour and the foreign idiom that renders many existing translations repellent to modern taste." In 1964 Betty Radice and William Baldick succeeded Rieu as joint editors, with Radice becoming sole editor in 1974 and serving as an editor for 21 years. As editor, Radice argued for the place of scholarship in popular editions, modified the earlier Penguin convention of the plain text, adding line references, maps, explanatory notes and indexes.
She broadened the canon of the'Classics', encouraged and diversified their readership while upholding academic standards. Penguin Books has paid particular attention to the design of its books since recruiting German typographer Jan Tschichold in 1947; the early minimalist designs were modernised by Italian art director Germano Facetti, who joined Penguin in 1961. The new classics were known as "Black Classics" for their black covers, which featured artwork appropriate to the topic and period of the work; this design was revised in 1985 to have pale yellow covers with a black spine, colour-coded with a small mark to indicate language and period. In 2002, Penguin redesigned its entire catalogue; the redesign restored the black cover, adding a white orange lettering. The text page design was overhauled to follow a more prescribed template, allowing for faster copyediting and typesetting, but reducing the options for individual design variations suggested by a text's structure or historical context.
Prior to 2002, the text page typography of each book in the Classics series had been overseen by a team of in-house designers. The in-house text design department still albeit much smaller than formerly. Recent design work includes the Penguin Little Black Classic series. Penguin Classics collaborated with Bill Amberg in 2008 in the design of six books. Within the broader category of Classics, Penguin has issued specialised series with their own designs; these include: Penguin Nature Classics, with authors such as John James Audubon, Rachel Carson, John Muir Penguin Modern Classics, issued from 1961 onwards, with authors such as Truman Capote, James Joyce, George Orwell, Vladimir Nabokov, Antoine de Saint Exupéry. Some titles come with critical apparatus; the series has gone through a number of redesigns, the most recent being in June 2017: see here here, here. The series was renamed Penguin 20th Century Classics in May 1989, but the series reverted to its old name in February 2000. 20th Century Classics feature full-page front cover art, with a light blue-green/eau de nil rear cover and spine.
Penguin Enriched Classics, such as Adventures of Huckleberry Finn and Prejudice, The Scarlet Letter, A Tale of Two Cities Penguin Popular Classics, issued in 1994, are paperback editions of texts under the Classics imprints. They were a response to Wordsworth Classics, a series of cheap reprints which imitated Penguin in using black as its signature colour. Penguin Designer Classics, issued in 2007, is a set of five limited-edition books, with covers created by fashion designers to commemorate the series' 60th Anniversary Penguin Mini Modern Classics, issued in 2011, is an assortment of fifty pocket-sized books from fifty different authors such as Franz Kafka, Italo Calvino, E. M. Forster, Virginia Woolf and Stefan Zweig, it has been released to celebrate the 50th Anniversary of the Penguin Modern Classics. It is out of print. Penguin Little Black Classics, issued in 2015 a series of pocket-sized classics introduced to celebrate the 80th anniversary of Penguin Books. Pocket Penguins, issued in 2016.
The series echoes the style of the original Penguin Books, with smaller A-format size, tri-band design. The first 20 books were released in May 2016, described by publishing director Simon Winder as "a mix of the famous and the unjustly overlooked". No definitive bibliography of Penguin Classics has yet been published, although several partial bibliographies have been issued; the earliest come from the Penguin Catalogues, published annually covering in-print editions. The 1963 catalogue, for example, lists 97 titles, although by the series overall had produced 118 volumes. In the 1980s Penguin began publishing discrete catalogues of its Classics and Twentieth Century Classics series, listing all the titles available in the UK; the Penguin Collectors' Society have published two bibliographies of the early, pre-ISBN editions: firstly in 1994, with an update in 2008. In 2008, Penguin Books USA published a complete annotated listing of all Penguin Classics titles in a single paperback volume in the style of its Penguin Classics books.
Jean-Paul Gaultier is a French haute couture and prêt-à-porter fashion designer. He was the creative director of Hermès from 2003 to 2010, he co-presented the television series Eurotrash with Antoine de Caunes. Gaultier grew up in a suburb of Paris, his mother was his father an accountant. It was Marie Garage, who introduced him to the world of fashion, he never received formal training as a designer. Instead, he started sending sketches to famous couture stylists at an early age. Pierre Cardin was impressed by his talent and hired him as an assistant in 1970. Afterwards he worked with Jacques Esterel in 1971 and Jean Patou that year returning to manage the Pierre Cardin boutique in Manila for a year in 1974, his first individual collection was released in 1976, his characteristic irreverent style dating from 1981 has led to his being known as the enfant terrible of French fashion. Many of Gaultier's subsequent collections have been based on street wear, focusing on popular culture, whereas others his haute couture collections, are formal, yet at the same time unusual and playful.
Although most people found his designs decadent at the time, fashion editors, notably Melka Tréanton of Elle, Claude Brouet and Catherine Lardeur of French Marie Claire, were impressed by his creativity and mastery of tailoring, launched his career. In 1985, he introduced man-skirts and promoted their use kilts, in men's wardrobe, the release of designer collections. Gaultier has worked in close collaboration with Wolford Hosiery. Gaultier caused shock by using unconventional models for his exhibitions, like older men and full-figured women and tattooed models, by playing with traditional gender roles in the shows; this earned him enormous popularity. At the end of the 1980s, Gaultier suffered some personal losses, in 1990 his boyfriend and business partner Francis Menuge, died of AIDS-related causes. In 1988 Gaultier released a dance single titled "How To Do That" on Fontana Records, from which came one of the first "single title" remix albums, Aow Tou Dou Zat, on Mercury Records; the album includes mixes by Norman Cook, J. J. Jeczalik, George Shilling, Mark Saunders, Latin Rascals, David Dorrell, Tim Atkins, Carl Atkins, Kurtis Mantronik.
It was co-written and produced by Tony Mansfield, video directed by Jean-Baptiste Mondino. The album featured a collaboration with accordion player Yvette Horner. Starting in 1993, he co-hosted the Channel 4 program Eurotrash with Antoine de Caunes. Gaultier hosted the show until 1997. Gaultier was the creative director of Hermès from 2003 to 2010, he is well known for sponsoring the 2003–04 exhibit in the Costume Institute of New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art entitled "Braveheart: Men in Skirts," which showed designs by Dries van Noten, Vivienne Westwood, Rudi Gernreich in addition to Gaultier's in order to examine "designers and individuals who have appropriated the skirt as a means of injecting novelty into male fashion, as a means of transgressing moral and social codes, as a means of redefining an ideal masculinity."He designed some furniture for the French furniture brand Roche Bobois. In 2011, the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts in collaboration with the Maison Jean Paul Gaultier organized a retrospective exhibit, "The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk."
That exhibit is on tour with venues at the Swedish Centre for Architecture and Design in Stockholm, the Brooklyn Museum in New York City, the Barbican Centre in London, the National Gallery of Victoria in Melbourne, the Grand Palais in Paris. The exhibition in Paris, which took place from April to August 2015, was the subject of a documentary called Jean Paul Gaultier at the Grand Palais aired on Eurochannel; the "granny gray" hair color trend is attributed to Gaultier, whose autumn/winter 2011 show featured models in grey beehives. In the spring of 2015, his catwalk show at Paris Fashion Week featured silver-haired models again, as did the shows of other fashion designers and Gareth Pugh; the trend soon took off among the general public. In 2012, he was named as a member of the Jury for the Main Competition at the 2012 Cannes Film Festival; this was the first time. He designed the dress that Anggun wore as she represented France during the grand-finals of the Eurovision Song Contest 2012 held in Baku, Azerbaijan.
That year, he participated in the Cali ExpoShow in Cali, showing his extensive collection of perfumes and all classic clothes. Up until 2014, he designed for three collections: his own couture and ready-to-wear lines, for both men and women. At the spring/summer 2015 show he announced that he was closing the ready-to-wear labels to focus on haute couture. Gaultier produced sculptured costumes for Madonna during the nineties, starting with her infamous cone bra for her 1990 Blond Ambition World Tour, designed the wardrobe for her 2006 Confessions Tour. Gaultier has designed some of the costumes and outfits worn by rocker Marilyn Manson, including for his The Golden Age of Grotesque album. In France, the costumes he designed for singer Mylène Farmer gained much attention. In spring 2008 he signed a contract to be the fashion designer for her tour in 2009, he designed a dress. In 2008, he designed the white and silver mermaid dress that Marion Cotillard wore at the 80th Academy Awards, when she won the Oscar for her performance in La Vie en Rose.
He has designed many other red carpet outfits for artists such a
England is a country, part of the United Kingdom. It shares land borders with Wales to Scotland to the north-northwest; the Irish Sea lies west of England and the Celtic Sea lies to the southwest. England is separated from continental Europe by the North Sea to the east and the English Channel to the south; the country covers five-eighths of the island of Great Britain, which lies in the North Atlantic, includes over 100 smaller islands, such as the Isles of Scilly and the Isle of Wight. The area now called England was first inhabited by modern humans during the Upper Palaeolithic period, but takes its name from the Angles, a Germanic tribe deriving its name from the Anglia peninsula, who settled during the 5th and 6th centuries. England became a unified state in the 10th century, since the Age of Discovery, which began during the 15th century, has had a significant cultural and legal impact on the wider world; the English language, the Anglican Church, English law – the basis for the common law legal systems of many other countries around the world – developed in England, the country's parliamentary system of government has been adopted by other nations.
The Industrial Revolution began in 18th-century England, transforming its society into the world's first industrialised nation. England's terrain is chiefly low hills and plains in central and southern England. However, there is upland and mountainous terrain in the west; the capital is London, which has the largest metropolitan area in both the United Kingdom and the European Union. England's population of over 55 million comprises 84% of the population of the United Kingdom concentrated around London, the South East, conurbations in the Midlands, the North West, the North East, Yorkshire, which each developed as major industrial regions during the 19th century; the Kingdom of England – which after 1535 included Wales – ceased being a separate sovereign state on 1 May 1707, when the Acts of Union put into effect the terms agreed in the Treaty of Union the previous year, resulting in a political union with the Kingdom of Scotland to create the Kingdom of Great Britain. In 1801, Great Britain was united with the Kingdom of Ireland to become the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland.
In 1922 the Irish Free State seceded from the United Kingdom, leading to the latter being renamed the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland. The name "England" is derived from the Old English name Englaland, which means "land of the Angles"; the Angles were one of the Germanic tribes that settled in Great Britain during the Early Middle Ages. The Angles came from the Anglia peninsula in the Bay of Kiel area of the Baltic Sea; the earliest recorded use of the term, as "Engla londe", is in the late-ninth-century translation into Old English of Bede's Ecclesiastical History of the English People. The term was used in a different sense to the modern one, meaning "the land inhabited by the English", it included English people in what is now south-east Scotland but was part of the English kingdom of Northumbria; the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle recorded that the Domesday Book of 1086 covered the whole of England, meaning the English kingdom, but a few years the Chronicle stated that King Malcolm III went "out of Scotlande into Lothian in Englaland", thus using it in the more ancient sense.
According to the Oxford English Dictionary, its modern spelling was first used in 1538. The earliest attested reference to the Angles occurs in the 1st-century work by Tacitus, Germania, in which the Latin word Anglii is used; the etymology of the tribal name itself is disputed by scholars. How and why a term derived from the name of a tribe, less significant than others, such as the Saxons, came to be used for the entire country and its people is not known, but it seems this is related to the custom of calling the Germanic people in Britain Angli Saxones or English Saxons to distinguish them from continental Saxons of Old Saxony between the Weser and Eider rivers in Northern Germany. In Scottish Gaelic, another language which developed on the island of Great Britain, the Saxon tribe gave their name to the word for England. An alternative name for England is Albion; the name Albion referred to the entire island of Great Britain. The nominally earliest record of the name appears in the Aristotelian Corpus the 4th-century BC De Mundo: "Beyond the Pillars of Hercules is the ocean that flows round the earth.
In it are two large islands called Britannia. But modern scholarly consensus ascribes De Mundo not to Aristotle but to Pseudo-Aristotle, i.e. it was written in the Graeco-Roman period or afterwards. The word Albion or insula Albionum has two possible origins, it either derives from a cognate of the Latin albus meaning white, a reference to the white cliffs of Dover or from the phrase the "island of the Albiones" in the now lost Massaliote Periplus, attested through Avienus' Ora Maritima to which the former served as a source. Albion is now applied to England in a more poetic capacity. Another romantic name for England is Loegria, related to the Welsh word for England and made popular by its use in Arthurian legend; the earliest known evidence of human presence in the area now known as England was that of Homo antecessor, dating to approximate
D. H. Lawrence
David Herbert Lawrence was an English writer and poet. His collected works represent, among other things, an extended reflection upon the dehumanising effects of modernity and industrialisation; some of the issues Lawrence explores are sexuality, emotional health, vitality and instinct. Lawrence's opinions earned him many enemies and he endured official persecution and misrepresentation of his creative work throughout the second half of his life, much of which he spent in a voluntary exile he called his "savage pilgrimage". At the time of his death, his public reputation was that of a pornographer who had wasted his considerable talents. E. M. Forster, in an obituary notice, challenged this held view, describing him as "the greatest imaginative novelist of our generation." The literary critic F. R. Leavis championed both his artistic integrity and his moral seriousness; the fourth child of Arthur John Lawrence, a literate miner at Brinsley Colliery, Lydia Beardsall, a former pupil teacher, forced to perform manual work in a lace factory due to her family's financial difficulties, Lawrence spent his formative years in the coal mining town of Eastwood, Nottinghamshire.
The house in which he was born, 8a Victoria Street, is now the D. H. Lawrence Birthplace Museum, his working-class background and the tensions between his parents provided the raw material for a number of his early works. Lawrence roamed out from an early age in the patches of open, hilly country and remaining fragments of Sherwood Forest in Felley woods to the north of Eastwood, beginning a lifelong appreciation of the natural world, he wrote about "the country of my heart" as a setting for much of his fiction; the young Lawrence attended Beauvale Board School from 1891 until 1898, becoming the first local pupil to win a county council scholarship to Nottingham High School in nearby Nottingham. He left in 1901, working for three months as a junior clerk at Haywood's surgical appliances factory, but a severe bout of pneumonia ended this career. During his convalescence he visited Hagg's Farm, the home of the Chambers family, began a friendship with Jessie Chambers. An important aspect of this relationship with Chambers and other adolescent acquaintances was a shared love of books, an interest that lasted throughout Lawrence's life.
In the years 1902 to 1906 Lawrence served as a pupil teacher at the British Eastwood. He went on to become a full-time student and received a teaching certificate from University College, Nottingham, in 1908. During these early years he was working on his first poems, some short stories, a draft of a novel, to become The White Peacock. At the end of 1907 he won a short story competition in the Nottinghamshire Guardian, the first time that he had gained any wider recognition for his literary talents. In the autumn of 1908, the newly qualified Lawrence left his childhood home for London. While teaching in Davidson Road School, Croydon, he continued writing. Jessie Chambers submitted some of Lawrence's early poetry to Ford Madox Ford, editor of the influential The English Review. Hueffer commissioned the story Odour of Chrysanthemums which, when published in that magazine, encouraged Heinemann, a London publisher, to ask Lawrence for more work, his career as a professional author now began in earnest.
Shortly after the final proofs of his first published novel, The White Peacock, appeared in 1910, Lawrence's mother died of cancer. The young man was devastated, he was to describe the next few months as his "sick year", it is clear that Lawrence had an close relationship with his mother, his grief became a major turning point in his life, just as the death of Mrs. Morel is a major turning point in his autobiographical novel Sons and Lovers, a work that draws upon much of the writer's provincial upbringing. Concerned with the emotional battle for Lawrence's love between his mother and "Miriam", the novel documents Paul's brief intimate relationship with Miriam that Lawrence had initiated in the Christmas of 1909, ending it in August 1910; the hurt caused to Jessie by this and by her portrayal in the novel caused the end of their friendship and after it was published they never spoke to each other again. In 1911, Lawrence was introduced to Edward Garnett, a publisher's reader, who acted as a mentor, provided further encouragement, became a valued friend, as did his son David.
Throughout these months, the young author revised Paul Morel, the first draft of what became Sons and Lovers. In addition, a teaching colleague, Helen Corke, gave him access to her intimate diaries about an unhappy love affair, which formed the basis of The Trespasser, his second novel. In November 1911, he came down with a pneumonia again. In February 1912, he broke off an engagement to Louie Burrows, an old friend from his days in Nottingham and Eastwood. In March 1912 Lawrence met Frieda Weekley. Six years older than her new lover, she was married to Ernest Weekley, his former modern languages professor at University College and had three young children, she eloped with Lawrence to her parents' home in Metz, a garrison town in Germany near the disputed border with France. Their stay there included Lawrence's first encounter with tensions between Germany and France, when he was arrested a