Donald Gilbert Shelby is a retired American journalist, most a news anchor on WCCO-TV in Minneapolis, Minnesota. He is regarded as an experienced investigative journalist, as his work has earned two Peabody awards and an Emmy Award. Shelby joined WCCO-TV in 1978 as a news reporter. After continued work as a reporter, Shelby began assuming anchor responsibilities in greater capacity assuming the primary anchor chair from Dave Moore. Shelby was the chief architect behind WCCO's "I-Team" segment, which spotlighted current issues, both local and on a larger world scale, with rigorous investigative journalism. After suffering a mild stroke in early 2004, Shelby returned to news reading duties by the end of that year. Shelby retired from television after his final WCCO-TV newscast on November 22, 2010. In February 2006, Shelby began hosting a series of video essay segments entitled "In The Know", during the station's 10:00 newscast; these segments sometimes touched on political and other topics with the same pointed journalistic style of Shelby's earlier "I-Team" efforts.
In recent years, Shelby undertook a dual responsibility of hosting an afternoon radio show on WCCO which ended at 6:00 after which he anchored the TV newscast. In June 2009, Monday Night Football sideline reporter Michele Tafoya took over the radio show, which Shelby still contributes to as a guest. Shelby's final radio show took place on December 11, 2009. Shelby has played an active role in the maintenance of the Mississippi River. Through his WCCO-TV segment entitled "Project Energy", Shelby has investigated energy conservation, renewable energy, alternative fuels. Shelby has given his time as an on-air representative for a number of pledge drives on behalf of the local PBS station TPT, as well as narrated the third installment of "Lost Twin Cities", a TPT produced documentary, he has appeared in America Unearthed Known to many in the Minnesota community as a "jack-of-all-trades," Shelby has many hobbies, among other things, beekeeping. Shelby has been an enthusiastic fan of women's basketball.
His first book, The Season Never Ends: Wins and the Wisdom of the Game, was published on August 30, 2011. It features a foreword by former University of Minnesota men's basketball head coach Tubby Smith and endorsements from NBA analyst Ahmad Rashād and author Will Weaver, his eldest daughter, Ashley Shelby, is the author of Red River Rising: The Anatomy of a Flood and the Survival of an American City and South Pole Station: A Novel. Another daughter, Lacy Shelby, is the former Director of Green Infrastructure for the City of New York's Department of Transportation, she is Principal Urban Designer for the City of Minneapolis. His youngest daughter, Delta Larkey, is a Licensed Marriage and Family Therapist and co-owner of St. Paul-based Family Development Center. Shelby, in his time on television, popularized the Pratt necktie knot, to the extent that it is sometimes referred to as the "Shelby Knot" or "Pratt-Shelby." The knot was created by Jerry Pratt, an employee of the US Chamber of Commerce, who taught it to Shelby in 1986.
The knot was considered at the time to be "the first new knot for men in over 50 years" by the New York Times. It is speculated that the knot had been in use for a time, but the knot had not been documented until Don Shelby made it famous by the help of Jerry Pratt and the Minneapolis clothier Kingford Bavender. Kingford Bavender is considered to have coined the term the "Shelby" knot. In honor of the history of the Shelby Knot and Don Shelby, a bespoke clothier company by the name of King Brothers Clothiers partnered with Mr. Shelby and launched the Shelby Knot Collection of ties in the spring of 2013. Together, Don Shelby and King Brothers Clothiers, selected the designs of the ties that reflected Don's tastes. University of Minnesota Initiative for Renewable Energy and the Environment Annual Research Symposium Don Shelby's MySpace fan page'Best Of' Don Shelby Memories
The Windsor knot referred to as a Full Windsor or as a Double Windsor to distinguish it from the half-Windsor, is a method of tying a necktie. The Windsor knot, compared to other methods, produces a wide symmetrical triangular knot; the knot is thought to be named after the Duke of Windsor. It is however, that it was invented by his father, George V; the Duke preferred a wide knot and had his ties specially made with thicker cloth in order to produce a wider knot when tied with the conventional four-in-hand knot. The Windsor knot was invented to emulate the Duke's wide knot with ties made from normal thickness cloth; the Windsor knot is suited for a spread or cutaway collar that can properly accommodate a larger knot. For correct wear, the tie used for a Windsor knot should be about 4 centimetres or 1.6 inches longer than a conventional tie. When tied the knot is tight and does not slip away from the collar during wear, it is comfortable to wear, as the knot itself will hold the tie in place while still keeping space between the collar and the neck.
The knot is symmetrical, well-balanced, self-releasing. It is a large knot, which amply displays the fabric and design of the tie when wearing a closed jacket or coat, helps keep the throat area warm during the colder winter months. A large knot can distract attention away from the wearer's face. To tie the Windsor, place the tie around your neck and cross the broad end of the tie in front of the narrow end. Fold the broad end behind the narrow end and push it up through the inside of the loop around your neck; the left and right sides of the narrow end, the inside of the loop, now form a triangle. The third and fourth folds should complete one rotation around the outside of the knot; the fifth fold brings the broad end over the top of the knot from the front to the back. The sixth and seventh folds again complete one rotation around the knot; the eighth fold should again bring the broad end up over the top of the knot from behind. If the tie is unbalanced, untie the knot and try again giving yourself more or less length to work with.
In The 85 Ways to Tie a Tie, by Thomas Fink and Yong Mao, the Windsor knot is listed as "knot 31" and tied, in that book's notation, as follows: Li Co Ri Lo Ci Ro Li Co TFink and Mao list the following as common variations on the Windsor: Li Co Li Ro Ci Lo Ri Co T Li Co Ri Lo Ci Lo Ri Co T Li Co Li Ro Ci Ro Li Co T. The instructions for tying a Windsor knot are shown below. We assume; the figures below are mirror images. They are. At the beginning, the wide end of the tie should be on your right side and the other end should be on your left side. Cross the wide end over the other end. Now three regions are formed. Bring the wide end under the narrow end to the Center region. Bring the wide end over to the Right region. Bring the wide end underneath the narrow end from Right to Left. Bring the wide end up to the Center region. Bring the wide end under the knot from Center to Right. Bring the wide end over the front to the Left region. Bring the wide end under the narrow part from Left to Center. Bring the wide end down and pass the loop in front.
Ensure that the knot is tightened. Use one hand to pull the narrow end down and use the other hand to move the knot up until it reaches the center of the collar; the Windsor knot is the only tie knot, to be used by all personnel in the Royal Air Force and the Royal Air Force Cadets in the UK when wearing their black tie while in uniform. However, the Windsor Knot is frowned upon in other Armed Services or Regiments of the British Forces through its association with the Duke of Windsor, who became a potential pretender to the throne following his abdication; the Windsor and four-in-hand knots are authorized for use by all services of the Canadian Forces. In Ian Fleming's novel From Russia, with Love, Chapter 25 is entitled "A tie with a Windsor knot". James Bond, traveling on the Orient Express, is met by a supposed fellow British agent, who wears "the dark blue and red zigzagged tie of the Royal Artillery, tied with a Windsor knot". Fleming describes in detail Bond's reaction: "Bond mistrusted anyone who tied his tie with a Windsor knot.
It showed too much vanity. It was the mark of a cad". However, "Bond decided to forget his prejudice". Four-in-hand knot Half-Windsor or Single-Windsor List of knots Neckties at Curlie
The small knot, or oriental knot or Kent knot, is the simplest method of tying a necktie, though some claim the simple knot is an alternative name for the four-in-hand knot. The small knot is not well known despite its simplicity. One of the reasons may be that the small knot is not self-releasing, may annoy people accustomed to four-in-hand and Windsor knots who pull at the tie to untangle the knot. Additionally, some prefer that, if the thin end of the tie should become visible, that it not be "inside out", the small knot will be this way. Using the notation from The 85 Ways to Tie a Tie, the knot is tied Lo Ri Co T. Four-in-hand knot Pratt knot Half-Windsor knot Windsor knot List of knots Neckties at Curlie
A necktie, or a tie, is a long piece of cloth, worn by men, for decorative purposes around the neck, resting under the shirt collar and knotted at the throat. Variants include the ascot tie, bow tie, bolo tie, zipper tie, Knit Tie and clip-on tie; the modern necktie and bow tie are descended from the cravat. Neckties are unsized, but may be available in a longer size. In some cultures men and boys wear neckties as part of formal wear; some women wear them as well but not as as men. Neckties can be worn as part of a uniform, whereas some choose to wear them as everyday clothing attire. Neckties are traditionally worn with the top shirt button fastened, the tie knot resting between the collar points. There is a long history of neckwear worn by Persian soldiers, whether as part of a uniform or as a symbol of belonging to a particular group; some form of neckwear other than the outdoor scarf can be traced intermittently through many centuries. Historical studies indicate that the Croats started migrating from the Iranian homeland to Croatia and Bosnia about 3,000 years ago.
However, a much larger migration took place about 1,700 years ago. The believed explanation for this migration was the suppression of the followers of Manichean faith during the Sassanian era; the early immigrants called themselves Khoravat or Croat in order to distinguish with other tribes of that region. These Iranian-origin immigrants did something more to stress the difference: they tied a handkerchief around their necks, something which gained global popularity under the name of Cravat; the modern necktie that spread from Europe traces back to Croatian mercenaries serving in France during the Thirty Years' War. These mercenaries from the Croatian Military Frontier, wearing their traditional small, knotted neckerchiefs, aroused the interest of the Parisians; because of the difference between the Croatian word for Croats and the French word, the garment gained the name cravat. The boy-king Louis XIV began wearing a lace cravat around 1646, when he was seven, set the fashion for French nobility.
This new article of clothing started a fashion craze in Europe. From its introduction by the French king, men wore lace cravats, or jabots, that took a large amount of time and effort to arrange; these cravats were tied in place by cravat strings, arranged neatly and tied in a bow. International Necktie Day is celebrated on October 18 in Croatia and in various cities around the world, e.g. in Dublin, Tübingen, Tokyo and other towns. The Battle of Steenkerque took place in 1692. In this battle, the princes, while hurriedly dressing for battle, wound these cravats around their necks, they twisted the ends of the fabric together and passed the twisted ends through a jacket buttonhole. These cravats were referred to as Steinkirks. In 1715, another kind of neckwear, called "stocks" made its appearance; the term referred to a leather collar, laced at the back, worn by soldiers to promote holding the head high in a military bearing. The leather stock afforded some protection to the major blood vessels of the neck from saber or bayonet attacks.
General Sherman is seen wearing a leather stock in several American Civil War-era photographs. Stock ties were just a small piece of muslin folded into a narrow band wound a few times round the shirt collar and secured from behind with a pin, it was fashionable for the men to wear their hair past shoulder length. The ends were tucked into a black silk bag worn at the nape of the neck; this was known as the bag-wig hairstyle, the neckwear worn with it was the stock. The solitaire was a variation of the bag wig; this form had matching ribbons stitched around the bag. After the stock was in place, the ribbons would be brought forward and tied in a large bow in front of the wearer. Sometime in the late 18th century, cravats began to make an appearance again; this can be attributed to a group of young men called the macaronis. These were young Englishmen who returned from Europe and brought with them new ideas about fashion from Italy; the French contemporaries of the macaronis were the incroyables. At this time, there was much interest in the way to tie a proper cravat and this led to a series of publications.
This began in 1818 the publication of with Neckclothitania, a style manual that contained illustrated instructions on how to tie 14 different cravats. Soon after, the immense skill required to tie the cravat in certain styles became a mark of a man's elegance and wealth, it was the first book to use the word tie in association with neckwear. It was about this time, their popularity eclipsed the white cravat, except for evening wear. These remained popular through to the 1850s. At this time, another form of neckwear worn was the scarf; this was where a neckerchief or bandana was held in place by slipping the ends through a finger or scarf ring at the neck instead of using a knot. This may have been adopted from them. With the industrial revolution, more people wanted neckwear, easy to put on, was comfortable, would last an entire workday. Neckties were designed long and easy to knot, they did not come undone; this is the necktie design still worn by millions of men. By this time, the sometimes complicated array of knots and styles of neckwear gave way to the neckties and bow ties, the latter a much smaller, more convenient version of the cravat.
Another type of neckwear, the Ascot tie, was considered de rig
The half-Windsor knot known as the single Windsor knot, is a way of tying a necktie which produces a neat, triangular knot. It is smaller than the Windsor knot; the half-Windsor is derived from the Windsor in that it is only brought up around the loop on one side rather than both. It works well with light- and medium-weight fabrics. Windsor knot – a bulkier knot Four-in-hand knot List of knots Neckties at Curlie
The New York Times
The New York Times is an American newspaper based in New York City with worldwide influence and readership. Founded in 1851, the paper has won more than any other newspaper; the Times is ranked 17th in the world by circulation and 2nd in the U. S; the paper is owned by The New York Times Company, publicly traded and is controlled by the Sulzberger family through a dual-class share structure. It has been owned by the family since 1896. G. Sulzberger, the paper's publisher, his father, Arthur Ochs Sulzberger Jr. the company's chairman, are the fourth and fifth generation of the family to helm the paper. Nicknamed "The Gray Lady", the Times has long been regarded within the industry as a national "newspaper of record"; the paper's motto, "All the News That's Fit to Print", appears in the upper left-hand corner of the front page. Since the mid-1970s, The New York Times has expanded its layout and organization, adding special weekly sections on various topics supplementing the regular news, editorials and features.
Since 2008, the Times has been organized into the following sections: News, Editorials/Opinions-Columns/Op-Ed, New York, Sports of The Times, Science, Home and other features. On Sunday, the Times is supplemented by the Sunday Review, The New York Times Book Review, The New York Times Magazine and T: The New York Times Style Magazine; the Times stayed with the broadsheet full-page set-up and an eight-column format for several years after most papers switched to six, was one of the last newspapers to adopt color photography on the front page. The New York Times was founded as the New-York Daily Times on September 18, 1851. Founded by journalist and politician Henry Jarvis Raymond and former banker George Jones, the Times was published by Raymond, Jones & Company. Early investors in the company included Edwin B. Morgan, Christopher Morgan, Edward B. Wesley. Sold for a penny, the inaugural edition attempted to address various speculations on its purpose and positions that preceded its release: We shall be Conservative, in all cases where we think Conservatism essential to the public good.
We do not believe that everything in Society is either right or wrong. In 1852, the newspaper started a western division, The Times of California, which arrived whenever a mail boat from New York docked in California. However, the effort failed. On September 14, 1857, the newspaper shortened its name to The New-York Times. On April 21, 1861, The New York Times began publishing a Sunday edition to offer daily coverage of the Civil War. One of the earliest public controversies it was involved with was the Mortara Affair, the subject of twenty editorials in the Times alone; the main office of The New York Times was attacked during the New York City Draft Riots. The riots, sparked by the beginning of drafting for the Union Army, began on July 13, 1863. On "Newspaper Row", across from City Hall, Henry Raymond stopped the rioters with Gatling guns, early machine guns, one of which he manned himself; the mob diverted, instead attacking the headquarters of abolitionist publisher Horace Greeley's New York Tribune until being forced to flee by the Brooklyn City Police, who had crossed the East River to help the Manhattan authorities.
In 1869, Henry Raymond died, George Jones took over as publisher. The newspaper's influence grew in 1870 and 1871, when it published a series of exposés on William Tweed, leader of the city's Democratic Party—popularly known as "Tammany Hall" —that led to the end of the Tweed Ring's domination of New York's City Hall. Tweed had offered The New York Times five million dollars to not publish the story. In the 1880s, The New York Times transitioned from supporting Republican Party candidates in its editorials to becoming more politically independent and analytical. In 1884, the paper supported Democrat Grover Cleveland in his first presidential campaign. While this move cost The New York Times a portion of its readership among its more progressive and Republican readers, the paper regained most of its lost ground within a few years. After George Jones died in 1891, Charles Ransom Miller and other New York Times editors raised $1 million dollars to buy the Times, printing it under the New York Times Publishing Company.
However, the newspaper was financially crippled by the Panic of 1893, by 1896, the newspaper had a circulation of less than 9,000, was losing $1,000 a day. That year, Adolph Ochs, the publisher of the Chattanooga Times, gained a controlling interest in the company for $75,000. Shortly after assuming control of the paper, Ochs coined the paper's slogan, "All The News That's Fit To Print"; the slogan has appeared in the paper since September 1896, has been printed in a box in the upper left hand corner of the front page since early 1897. The slogan was a jab at competing papers, such as Joseph Pulitzer's New York World and William Randolph Hearst's New York Journal, which were known for a lurid and inaccurate reporting of facts and opinions, described by the end of the century as "yellow journalism". Under Ochs' guidance, aided by Carr
A tailor is a person who makes, repairs, or alters clothing professionally suits and men's clothing. Although the term dates to the thirteenth century, tailor took on its modern sense in the late eighteenth century, now refers to makers of men's and women's suits, coats and similar garments of wool, linen, or silk; the term refers to a set of specific hand and machine sewing and pressing techniques that are unique to the construction of traditional jackets. Retailers of tailored suits take their services internationally, traveling to various cities, allowing the client to be measured locally. Traditional tailoring is called "bespoke tailoring" in the United Kingdom, where the heart of the trade is London's Savile Row tailoring, "custom tailoring" in the United States and Hong Kong; this is unlike made to measure pre-existing patterns. A bespoke garment or suit is original and unique to each customer. Famous fictional tailors include the tailor in The Tailor of Gloucester, The Emperor's New Clothes and The Valiant Little Tailor.
A more recent example is John le Carré. As the tailoring profession has evolved, so too have the methods of tailoring. There are a number of distinctive business models. While some may practice many, there are others who will practice only two. Local tailoring is; the tailor is met locally and the garment produced locally. This method enables the tailor to take professional measurements, assess posture and body shape to make unique modifications to the garment. Local tailors will have a showroom or shopfront allowing clients to choose fabrics from samples or return the garment should it require further modification; this is the most traditional form of tailoring. Hong Kong Tailors and London are the most famous for high quality bespoke tailoring, in average it takes about 2 to 3 fittings and about 50 to 70 working hours to handmake one suit. Distance tailoring involves ordering a garment from an out-of-town tailor enabling cheaper labour to be used. In practice this can now be done on a global scale via e-commerce websites.
Unlike local tailoring, customers must take their own measurements, fabric selection must be made from a photo and if further alterations are required the garment must be shipped. Today, the most common platform for distance tailoring is via online tailors. Online tailors sometimes offer to pay for needed alterations at a local tailor. Another new option is the concept where a free test suit is made to the provided measurements and shipped to the customer first; the test suit can be worn to see where any adjustments are wanted. The final suit is tailored to the new specifications provided by the test suit fitting. Unlike tailors who do distance tailoring, traveling tailors provide a more personal service to their customers and give the customers an opportunity to see the fabric samples and meet the tailor in person. Traveling tailors travel between cities and station in a local luxury hotel for a short period of time to meet and provide the same tailoring services they would provide in their local store.
In the hotel, the customer will be able to select the fabric from samples and the tailor will take the measurements himself. The order will be shipped to the customer within 3–4 weeks time. Unlike local tailoring, if further alterations are required the garment must be shipped. Today, most traveling tailors are from Hong Kong, traveling to the United States, the United Kingdom, France and Japan. A tailor-made is a man's suit consisting of pants; as an adjective, tailor-made refers to clothing made by or in the style of clothes made by a tailor, characterized by simplicity of cut and trim and fine finishing. Rodeo tailor is a term for a creator of the flamboyant costumes typical of country and western musicians, characterized by extensive hand embroidery, an abundance of rhinestones, cowboy details such as pearl snaps and arrowhead pockets. In some documents, tailor means adjust, tailoring means adjusting. Sewing professional is the most general term for those who make their living by sewing, writing about sewing, or retailing sewing supplies.
They may work out of their home, a studio, or retail shop, may work part-time or full-time. They may be any or all or the following sub-specialties: A custom clothier makes custom garments one at a time, to order, to meet an individual customer's needs and preferences. A custom dressmaker specializes in women's custom apparel, including day dresses, evening or bridal wear, sportswear, or lingerie. A tailor makes custom menswear-style trousers. A cutter cuts out, from lengths of the panels that make up a suit. In bespoke tailoring, the cutter may measure the client, advise them on style choices, commission craftsmen to sew the suit. An alterations specialist, or alterationist adjusts the fit of completed garments ready-to-wear, or restyles them. Note that while all tailors can do alterations, not all alterationists can do tailoring. Designers conceive combinations of line, proportion and texture for intended garments, they may or may not have sewing or patternmaking skills, may only sketch or conceptualize garments.
They work with people who know how to construct the garment. Patternmakers flat draft the shapes and sizes of the numerous pieces of a garment by hand, using paper and measuring tools or by computer using AutoCAD based software, or by draping muslin onto a dress