Royal Robbins was one of the pioneers of American rock climbing. After learning to climb at Tahquitz Rock, he went on to make first ascents of many big wall routes in Yosemite. As an early proponent of boltless, pitonless clean climbing, he, along with Yvon Chouinard, was instrumental in changing the climbing culture of the late 1960s and early 1970s by encouraging the use and preservation of the natural features of the rock. He went on to become a well-known kayaker.
Royal Robbins in the early 1960s.
Original Cover
Royal Robbins in the 1990s
Royal Robbins leading the third pitch of the Salathé Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley.
Big wall climbing is a form of rock climbing that takes place on long multi-pitch routes that normally require a full day, if not several days, to ascend. In addition, big wall routes are typically sustained and exposed, where the climbers remain suspended from the rock face, even sleeping hanging from the face, with limited options to sit down or escape unless they abseil back down the whole route. It is therefore a physically and mentally demanding form of climbing.
Climbers on a pitch of The Nose route (VI 5.9 C2) on El Capitan
Tre Cime di Lavaredo
Petit Dru
Great Trango Tower