The 1921 British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition set off to explore how it might be possible to get to the vicinity of Mount Everest, to reconnoitre possible routes for ascending the mountain, and – if possible – make the first ascent of the highest mountain in the world. At that time Nepal was closed to foreigners, so any approach had to be from the north, through Tibet. A feasible route was discovered from the east up the Kharta Glacier and then crossing the Lhakpa La pass north east of Everest. It was then necessary to descend to the East Rongbuk Glacier before climbing again to Everest's North Col. However, although the North Col was reached, it was not possible to climb further before the expedition had to withdraw.
Members of the expedition Standing: Wollaston, Howard-Bury, Heron, Raeburn. Sitting: Mallory, Wheeler, Bullock, Morshead.
Harold Andrew Raeburn was a Scottish mountaineer. He was one of the most prominent British mountaineers of his era with several first ascents. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries he took part in numerous ascents in Norway, contributing to the popularization of Norwegian mountaineering among the international mountaineering community. Some of his regular mountaineering partners in Norway were William Cecil Slingsby, Howard Priestman and Norwegians Kristian Tandberg and George Paus. He was mountaineering leader on the initial 1921 British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition.
Everest Expedition 1921: Raeburn is standing on the right.
The west face of the Douglas Boulder below Ben Nevis, Highland Scotland. The left edge approximates to the line of Direct Route (215m Very Difficult) first climbed on 3 April 1896 by a party of four led by William Brown and including Raeburn – his first climb on Ben Nevis. The steep crest behind (left) is Raeburn's Arete (230m Severe), climbed on 30 June 1902 in the company of William and Jane Inglis Clark. The (almost) level Carn Mor Dearg Arete is on the skyline.