1.
Carnaby Street
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For the programme on Manx Radio, see Carnaby Street Carnaby Street is a pedestrianised shopping street in Soho in the City of Westminster, Central London. Close to Oxford Street and Regent Street, it is home to fashion and lifestyle retailers, the nearest London Underground station is Oxford Circus tube station. Carnaby Street derives its name from Karnaby House, which was built in 1683 to the east, the origin of the name is unknown. The street was laid out in 1685 or 1686. First appearing in the ratebooks in 1687, it was almost completely built up by 1690 with small houses, a market was developed in the 1820s. In his novel, Sybil, Benjamin Disraeli refers to a carcase-butcher famous in Carnaby-market and this area is notable for a cholera outbreak in 1854 leading to an early application of fundamental epidemiological principles to resolve the crisis. John Snow, the physician who recognised the cases were concentrated near a pump on Broad Street communicated the finding on a map-based graphic and it led to the pump being locked and the reduction in cases of cholera was rapid. In 1934, Amy Ashwood Garvey and Sam Manning opened the Florence Mills Social Club, round the corner in Kingly Street, Tommy Roberts opened his gift shop Kleptomania. He moved to Carnaby Street in 1967 and went on to fame in the Kings Road, Chelsea. By the 1960s, Carnaby Street was popular with followers of the mod, bands such as the Small Faces, The Who, and Rolling Stones appeared in the area to work, shop, and socialise, it became one of the coolest destinations associated with 1960s Swinging London. Vehicular access is restricted between 11 am and 8 pm, a comparison of before and after number of pedestrians entering the area indicated a 30% increase in pedestrian flows as a result of the pedestrianisation. A campaign commenced early in 2010 to call for pedestrianisation in the adjacent area of Soho, in 1966, Harry Fox and Henry Moss opened Lady Jane, the first ladies fashion boutique in the street. They parted company and Harry Fox opened Lady Jane Again, Lady Janes Birdcage, a souvenir shop and it was mentioned in the 1967 film Smashing Time. One of the songs, Carnaby Street, features the lyric, in 1969, Peggy March recorded an album called In der Carnaby Street, with a hit song of the same name. A song by The Jam, Carnaby Street, was written by bassist Bruce Foxton and it was the B-side of single All Around the World. Carnaby Street the Musical opened in 2013, the show is set in the 1960s. Rock band The Carnabys derived inspiration for their name from the street, the video game Heavy Rain has a location named Carnaby Corner North. London portal Official website Kingly and Carnaby Street Area – the relevant chapter of the Survey of London
2.
The National Archives (United Kingdom)
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The National Archives is a non-ministerial government department. Its parent department is the Department for Culture, Media and Sport of the United Kingdom and it is the official archive of the UK government and for England and Wales, and guardian of some of the nations most iconic documents, dating back more than 1,000 years. There are separate national archives for Scotland and Northern Ireland, TNA was formerly four separate organisations, the Public Record Office, the Historical Manuscripts Commission, the Office of Public Sector Information and Her Majestys Stationery Office. It is institutional policy to include the article, with an initial capital letter, in its name. The National Archives is based in Kew in the London Borough of Richmond upon Thames in south-west London, the building was opened in 1977 as an additional home for the public records, which were held in a building on Chancery Lane. The site was originally a World War I hospital, which was used by several government departments. It is near to Kew Gardens Underground station, until its closure in March 2008, the Family Records Centre in Islington was run jointly by The National Archives and the General Register Office. The National Archives has an office in Norwich, which is primarily for former OPSI staff. There is also a record storage facility in the worked-out parts of Winsford Rock Salt Mine, Winsford. For earlier history, see Public Record Office, the name remained The National Archives. This work helps inform todays decisions and ensure that they become tomorrows permanent record, the National Archives has long had a role of oversight and leadership for the entire archives sector and archives profession in the UK, including local government and non-governmental archives. Under the Public Records Act 1958 it is responsible for overseeing the appropriate custody of certain non-governmental public records in England, under the 2003 Historical Manuscripts Commission Warrant it has responsibility for investigating and reporting on non-governmental records and archives of all kinds throughout the United Kingdom. The National Archives now sees part of its role as being to enhance the archival health of the nation. The collections held by the National Archives can be searched using their online catalogue, entrance to The National Archives is free. Anybody aged 16 or over can access the documents at the Kew site. The reading room has terminals from which documents can be ordered up from secure storage areas by their reference number, Documents can also be ordered in advance. Once a document has been ordered, The National Archives aims to get it to the reader within 45 minutes, special arrangements are in place for readers wishing to retrieve large groups of files. A readers ticket is not needed to access records on microform or online, frequently accessed documents such as the Abdication Papers have been put on microfilm, as have records for two million First World War soldiers
3.
Beatnik
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Beatnik was a media stereotype prevalent throughout the 1950s to mid-1960s that displayed the more superficial aspects of the Beat Generation literary movement of the 1950s. Elements of the beatnik trope included pseudo-intellectualism, drug use, Kerouac introduced the phrase Beat Generation in 1948, generalizing from his social circle to characterize the underground, anticonformist youth gathering in New York at that time. In 1954, Nolan Miller published his novel, Why I Am So Beat. The adjective beat was introduced to the group by Herbert Huncke, Beat came from underworld slang—the world of hustlers, drug addicts, and petty thieves, where Allen Ginsberg and Kerouac sought inspiration. Beat was slang for beaten down or downtrodden, but to Kerouac and Ginsberg, other adjectives discussed by Holmes and Kerouac were found and furtive. Kerouac felt he had identified a new trend analogous to the influential Lost Generation, wed even heard old 1910 Daddy Hipsters of the streets speak the word that way, with a melancholy sneer. It never meant juvenile delinquents, it meant characters of a special spirituality who didnt gang up but were solitary Bartlebies staring out the dead wall window of our civilization, Kerouac explained what he meant by beat at a Brandeis Forum, Is There A Beat Generation. On November 8,1958, at New Yorks Hunter College Playhouse, panelists for the seminar were Kerouac, James A. Wechsler, Princeton anthropologist Ashley Montagu, and author Kingsley Amis. Wechsler, Montague, and Amis all wore suits, while Kerouac was clad in jeans, ankle boots. Who knows, but that the universe is not one vast sea of compassion actually, Kerouacs address was later published as The Origins of the Beat Generation. The vision of the word Beat as being to mean beatific, people began to call themselves beatniks, beats, jazzniks, bopniks, bugniks and finally I was called the avatar of all this. Suburban couples could have beatnik parties on Saturday nights and drink too much, Kerouac biographer Ann Charters noted that the term Beat was appropriated to become a Madison Avenue marketing tool, The term caught on because it could mean anything. It could even be exploited in the affluent wake of the decade’s extraordinary technological inventions, almost immediately, for example, advertisements by hip record companies in New York used the idea of the Beat Generation to sell their new long playing vinyl records. And most are certain that their readers, or viewers, are of limited ability and must have things explained simply. Thus, the reporters in the media tried to relate something that was new to already preexisting frameworks and images that were only vaguely appropriate in their efforts to explain and simplify. With a variety of oversimplified and conventional formulas at their disposal, they back on the nearest stereotypical approximation of what the phenomenon resembled. And even worse, they did not see it clearly and completely at that, and in this, they were aided and abetted by the Poetic Establishment of the day. The consequence is, that though we may know now that these images do not accurately reflect the reality of the Beat movement
4.
Haute couture
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Haute couture is the creation of exclusive custom-fitted clothing. A haute couture garment is made for a client, tailored specifically for the wearers measurements. Considering the amount of time, money, and skill allotted to each completed piece, haute couture garments are described as having no price tag. The term originally referred to Englishman Charles Frederick Worths work, produced in Paris in the mid-nineteenth century, in modern France, haute couture is a protected name that may not be used except by firms that meet certain well-defined standards. However, the term is used loosely to describe all high-fashion custom-fitted clothing whether it is produced in Paris or in other fashion capitals such as London, Milan. In either case, the term can refer to the houses or fashion designers that create exclusive. In France, the haute couture is protected by law and is defined by the Chambre de commerce et dindustrie de Paris based in Paris. The chambre syndicale de la haute couture is defined as the commission that determines which fashion houses are eligible to be true haute couture houses. Formation of the organization was brought about by Charles Frederick Worth, an affiliated school was organized in 1930 called LEcole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture. The school helps bring new designers to help the couture houses that are present today. Since 1975, this organization has worked within the Federation Francaise, de couture, more rigorous criteria for haute couture were established in 1945. g. With that of prêt-à-porter in the public perception, almost every haute couture house also markets prêt-à-porter collections, which typically deliver a higher return on investment than their custom clothing. Falling revenues have forced a few houses to abandon their less profitable haute couture division. These houses are no longer considered haute couture houses by the original, legal usage of the term. Many top designer fashion houses such as Chanel use the word for some of their special collections, as well, the term haute couture has taken on further popular meanings referring to non-dressmaking activities, such as production of fine art, music, etc. Haute couture can be referenced back as early as the 17th Century, rose Bertin, the French fashion designer to Queen Marie Antoinette, can be credited for bringing fashion and haute couture to French culture. Visitors to Paris brought back clothing that was copied by local dressmakers. Stylish women also ordered fashion d dressed in the latest Parisian fashion to serve as models, as railroads and steamships made European travel easier, it was increasingly common for wealthy women to travel to Paris to shop for clothing and accessories
5.
Mini skirt
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A micro-miniskirt or microskirt is a miniskirt with its hemline at the upper thigh. Short skirts have existed for a time, though they were generally not called mini or became a fashion trend until the 1960s. Instances of clothing resembling miniskirts have been identified by archaeologists and historians as far back as c, in the early 20th century, the dancer Josephine Bakers banana skirt that she wore for her mid-1920s performances in the Folies Bergère was subsequently likened to a miniskirt. Hemlines were just above the knee in 1961, and gradually climbed upward over the few years. By 1966, some designs had the hem at the upper thigh, stockings with suspenders were not considered practical with miniskirts and were replaced with coloured tights. The popular acceptance of miniskirts peaked in the Swinging London of the 1960s, before that time, short skirts were only seen in sport and dance clothing, such as skirts worn by female tennis players, figure skaters, cheerleaders, and dancers. Several designers have been credited with the invention of the 1960s miniskirt, most significantly the London-based designer Mary Quant, while very short skirts have existed for a long time, they were generally not called mini until the 1960s. Figurines produced by the Vinča culture have been interpreted by archaeologists as representing women in miniskirt-like garments, One of the oldest surviving garments resembling a miniskirt is the short woollen skirt with bronze ornaments worn by the Egtved Girl for her burial in the Nordic Bronze Age. One of the earliest known cultures where women regularly wore clothing resembling miniskirts was a subgroup of the Miao people of China, the Duan Qun Miao. At least one of the One Hundred Miao Pictures albums contains a poem that describes how the womens short skirts. In the early 20th century, the dancer Josephine Bakers banana skirt that she wore for her mid-1920s performances in the Folies Bergère was subsequently likened to a miniskirt, the sci-fi miniskirt was seen in genre films and television programmes as well as on comic book covers. It was later seen as remarkable that only one formal complaint relating to the skirts could be recalled, hewitt pointed out that even though the complainant claimed they could see up her skirt, her matching tights rendered her effectively clothed from neck to ankle. Otherwise, Space Patrol was applauded for being wholesome and family-friendly, although the 30th-century women in Space Patrol were empowered, experts in their field, and largely treated as equals, it was the skirts that fuelled indelible memories. The Space Patrol skirts were not the shortest to be broadcast at the time – the German-made American 1954 series Flash Gordon showed Dale Arden in a shorter skirt. The manager of a shop in Londons Oxford Street began experimenting in 1960 with skirt hemlines an inch above the knees of window mannequins. Hemlines were just above the knee in 1961, and gradually climbed upward over the few years. By 1966, some designs had the hem at the upper thigh, stockings with suspenders were not considered practical with miniskirts and were replaced with coloured tights. Towards the end of the 1960s, a shorter version, called the microskirt or micro-mini
6.
Culottes
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Culottes are an item of clothing worn on the lower half of the body. The French word culotte is panties, pants, knickers, trousers, shorts, or breeches, derived from the French word culot, meaning the lower half of a thing, the lower garment in this case. The style of tight trousers ending just below the knee was popularized in France during the reign of Henry III, culottes were normally closed and fastened about the leg, to the knee, by buttons, a strap and buckle, or a draw-string. During the French Revolution of 1789–1799, working-class revolutionaries were known as the sans-culottes – literally, in the United States, only the first five Presidents, from George Washington through James Monroe, wore culottes according to the style of the late 18th century. European Military uniforms incorporated culottes as a standard uniform article, the leg being covered by either stockings, leggings. Culottes were a part of military uniforms during the European wars of the eighteenth-century. Historical Japanese field workers and military Samurai wore hakama that were tight at the bottom as French military culottes. Wider bifurcated wrap-skirt hakama were for horse-back riding, eighteenth and nineteenth-century European women introduced culottes cut with a pattern looking like long hakama, hiding their legs while riding horses. Today Aikido and Kendo masters wear long hakama, to hide their feet from opponents, modern English use of the word culottes describes a split or bifurcated skirt or any garment which hangs like a skirt, but is actually pants. During the Victorian Era long split skirts were developed for horseback riding so that women could sit astride a horse with a mans saddle rather than riding side-saddle. Horse-riding culottes for women were controversial because they were used to break a sexual-taboo against women riding horses when they were expected to hide their lower limbs at all times. Later, split skirts were developed to provide more freedom to do other activities as well, such as gardening, cleaning, bike riding, etc. Culottes are used in uniforms for girls. They can be used along with skirts, or they may be used as a replacement for skirts, culottes are worn as part of a uniform mainly to primary and middle schools. Culottes were also part of the uniform of UK Brownie Guides up until recently, when the uniform was modernised, in place of the term culotte, the term skort is more widely used in some areas. While some garments sold as culottes resemble short trousers, to truly be a skort it needs to look like a skirt, some culottes have a part sewn over only the front, some are shorts with a skirt sewn over them. While these may not be completely the same as skorts, they are called by either name
7.
Go-go boots
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Go-go boots are a low-heeled style of womens fashion boot first introduced in the mid-1960s. The original go-go boots, as defined by André Courrèges in 1964, were white, low-heeled, and mid-calf in height, a specific style which is sometimes called the Courrèges boot. The term go-go is derived from the French expression à gogo, meaning in abundance, galore, which is in turn derived from the ancient French word la gogue for joy, happiness. The term go-go has also explained as a 1964 back-formation of the 1962 slang term go, meaning something that was all the rage. The go-go boot is presumed to have named after the dance style. Fashion boots were revived in the early 1960s by designers such as Beth Levine, although at first they featured fashionable high heels such as the stiletto and kitten heels. The earliest go-go boots were mid-calf, white and flat-heeled, as seen in the work of the designer André Courrèges, the simple minimalism of the Courrèges boot was easily and widely reproduced for the mass market. Courrèges boots provided the foundation for the development of the go-go boot, while remaining low-ish, the heel also became higher and chunkier. The earliest Courrèges boots were made of leather, such as kidskin or patent leather, but many of the subsequent versions and copies were made in PVC, vinyl, and other plastics. In 1966, the song These Boots Are Made for Walkin was released and performed by a go-go boot wearing Nancy Sinatra, tim Gunn suggests that Sinatra helped establish the boot as a symbol of female power. Female dancers on the television shows Hullabaloo and Shindig, also wore the short, white boots. In the mid 1990s, as part of a revival of 1960s fashions. The dictionary definition of go-go at Wiktionary
8.
PVC clothing
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PVC clothing, commonly known as vinyl clothing, is shiny clothing made of the plastic polyvinyl chloride. The PVC plastic is also called vinyl, for this reason, this type of clothing is also called vinyl clothing. PVC is sometimes confused with the similarly shiny patent leather, the terms PVC, vinyl and PU tend to be used interchangeably by retailers for clothing made from shiny plastic-coated fabrics. These fabrics usually consist of a backing woven from polyester fibers with a coating of shiny plastic. The plastic layer itself is typically a blend of PVC and polyurethane, with 100% PVC producing a stiff fabric with a glossy shine, to add to the confusion, the plastic layer is often textured to look like leather, as opposed to smooth. The PVC can also be produced in bright colours, adding further visual stimulus to the sensations produced by the material. The more frequently found colors are black and red, the PVC clothes are very associated with retro-futuristic look, Goth, Punk, alternative fashions and clothing fetish. A common stereotype is the image of a dominatrix wearing a skin-tight PVC catsuit, in some cities it is more common to see people wearing PVC clothes, especially in large cities such as Berlin, London, New York City, Montreal, San Francisco, etc. The plastics were used in clothing since its invention, particularly in raincoats, but PVC clothing became more noted in the 1960s and early 1970s fashion trend. The fashion designers of that era saw the PVC plastic as the material to design futuristic clothes. During that era, boots, raincoats, dresses and other PVC garments were made in many colors and even transparent, at that time it was also common to see PVC clothes on films and TV series such as The Avengers, for example. And since then these shiny plastic clothes became a fetish object, in mid 1990s, clothes made of PVC have been prevalent in young peoples fashions, particularly in jackets, skirts and trousers, also appearing in the media. During the mid-1990s it was common to see presenters, models, actresses, actors, singers and other celebrities wearing PVC clothes on TV and magazines. As fashions come round and round again, it would seem that PVC are appearing again in mainstream street fashions as well as continuing to be central to the fetish scene. Fashion designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Cardin, since 2010, the PVC has been the target of fashion not only for the female public but also to the male public. In a scene from the film Two for the Road the British actress Audrey Hepburn appears wearing a shiny black PVC trouser suit designed by Paco Rabanne, in some scenes from the TV film Along Came a Spider, the American actress Suzanne Pleshette appears wearing a red PVC coat. In an episode of the 1990s American television sitcom called The Nanny, in the music video called Scream, Michael Jackson and his sister Janet Jackson wore black PVC pants. Also in 1995, the Canadian singer Shania Twain wore black PVC pants in the video called You Win My Love
9.
Mary Quant
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Dame Barbara Mary Quant, Mrs Plunket Greene, DBE, FCSD, RDI is a Welsh fashion designer and British fashion icon. She became a figure in the 1960s London-based Mod and youth fashion movements. In recent fashion there are three, Chanel, Dior, and Mary Quant, Quant was born in Blackheath, London on 11 February 1934, the daughter of Welsh teachers. Her parents, Jack and Mildred Quant, were both from mining families and they had been awarded scholarships to grammar school and had both attained first-class degrees at Cardiff University before they moved to London to work as schoolteachers. She went to Blackheath High School, then studied illustration at Goldsmiths College, after gaining a Diploma in Art Education from Goldsmiths, Quant began an apprenticeship at Erik, a high-end Mayfair milliner on Brook Street next door to Claridges hotel. She met her husband and business partner, Alexander Plunket Greene in 1953. They were married from 1957 until his death in 1990, and had a son, in 1957, they opened the second branch of Bazaar, which was designed by Terence Conran. Following this, Quant decided to design and make more of the clothes she stocked, initially working solo, she was soon employing a handful of machinists, and by 1966 she was working with eighteen manufacturers concurrently. For a while in the late 1950s and very early 1960s, the other was Kiki Byrne, who opened her boutique on the Kings Road in direct competition with Quant. The miniskirt, described as one of the fashions of the 1960s, is one of the garments most widely associated with Quant. While she is cited as the inventor of the style. Others credit Courrèges with the invention of the style, however, skirts had been getting shorter since the 1950s—a development Quant considered practical and liberating, allowing women the ability to run for a bus. Quant later said It was the girls on the Kings Road who invented the mini, I was making easy, youthful, simple clothes, in which you could move, in which you could run and jump and we would make them the length the customer wanted. I wore them short and the customers would say, Shorter, shorter. She enjoys being noticed, but wittily, in the late 1960s, Quant popularised hot pants and became a British fashion icon. Through the 1970s and 1980s she concentrated on household goods and make-up, rather than just her clothing lines, in 1988, Quant designed the interior of the Mini Designer. It featured black and white striped seats with red trimming, the seatbelts were red, and the driving and passenger seats had Quants signature on the upper left quadrant. The steering wheel had Quants signature daisy and the badge had Mary Quant written over the signature name
10.
Jackie Kennedy
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Jacqueline Lee Jackie Kennedy Onassis was the wife of the 35th President of the United States, John F. Kennedy, and First Lady of the United States from 1961 until his assassination in 1963. Bouvier was the daughter of Wall Street stockbroker John Vernou Bouvier III. In 1951, she graduated with a Bachelor of Arts degree in French literature from George Washington University, in 1952, Bouvier met Congressman John F. Kennedy at a dinner party. In November of that year, he was elected as a United States Senator from Massachusetts, and they had four children, two of whom died in infancy. As First Lady, she was known for her highly publicized restoration of the White House and her emphasis on arts, on November 22,1963, she was riding with the President in a motorcade in Dallas, Texas, when he was assassinated. She and her children withdrew from view after his funeral. Following her second death in 1975, she had a career as a book editor for the final two decades of her life. She is remembered for her contributions to the arts and preservation of historic architecture, as well as for her style, elegance. She was an icon, and her famous ensemble of pink Chanel suit. She ranks as one of the most popular First Ladies and in 1999 was named on Gallups list of Most Admired Men and Women in 20th-century America. Jacqueline Lee Bouvier was born on July 28,1929, at Southampton Hospital in Southampton, New York, to Wall Street stockbroker John Vernou Black Jack Bouvier III, Bouviers mother was of Irish descent, and her father had French, Scottish, and English ancestry. Named after her father, Bouvier was baptized at the Church of St. Ignatius Loyola in Manhattan and her younger sister Lee was born in 1933. Bouvier spent her childhood years in Manhattan and at Lasata. She idolized her father, who favored her over her sister. From an early age, Bouvier was an equestrienne and successfully competed in the sport. She also took lessons, was an avid reader, and excelled at learning languages. Bouvier enrolled in the Chapin School in Manhattan in 1935, which she attended for grades 1–6. She was a student but often misbehaved, one of her teachers described her as a darling child, the prettiest little girl, very clever, very artistic
11.
Pillbox hat
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A pillbox hat is a small hat, usually worn by women, with a flat crown, straight, upright sides, and no brim. It is named after the small cylindrical or hexagonal cases that used to be sold in. Historically, the precursor to the hat was military headgear. During the late Roman Empire, the pilleus pannonius or Pannonian cap – headgear similar to the pillbox hat – was worn by Roman soldiers. A similar hat was popular with the Flemish in the Middle Ages, in some countries, especially those of the Commonwealth of Nations, a pillbox-like cab, often with a chin strap, can still be seen on ceremonial occasions. For example, the Royal Military College of Canada dress uniform includes such a hat, another cap called a kilmarnock is a modern version of the traditional headdress worn by members of virtually all Gurkha regiments. The modern womans pillbox hat was invented by milliners in the 1930s, Pillbox hats were made out of wool, velvet, organdy, mink, lynx or fox fur, and leopard skin, among many other materials. They were generally designed in solid colors and were unaccesorized, the popularity of the hat declined after that. Pillbox hats are satirically mentioned in the song Leopard-Skin Pill-Box Hat by Bob Dylan, the song first appeared on his 1966 album Blonde on Blonde. Pillbox hats are also mentioned in the song Long Time by Cake on the 2011 album Showroom of Compassion, bell-boy hat Pillbox Notes Media related to Pillbox hats at Wikimedia Commons
12.
Hippie
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The word hippie came from hipster and was initially used to describe beatniks who had moved into New York Citys Greenwich Village and San Franciscos Haight-Ashbury district. The term hippie was first popularized in San Francisco by Herb Caen, the origins of the terms hip and hep are uncertain. By the 1940s, both had become part of African American jive slang and meant sophisticated, currently fashionable, fully up-to-date, the Beats adopted the term hip, and early hippies inherited the language and countercultural values of the Beat Generation. In the United Kingdom in 1970, many gathered at the gigantic Isle of Wight Festival with a crowd of around 400,000 people, in later years, mobile peace convoys of New Age travelers made summer pilgrimages to free music festivals at Stonehenge and elsewhere. In Australia, hippies gathered at Nimbin for the 1973 Aquarius Festival, piedra Roja Festival, a major hippie event in Chile, was held in 1970. Hippie fashion and values had an effect on culture, influencing popular music, television, film, literature. Since the 1960s, many aspects of culture have been assimilated by mainstream society. The religious and cultural diversity espoused by the hippies has gained widespread acceptance, lexicographer Jesse Sheidlower, the principal American editor of the Oxford English Dictionary, argues that the terms hipster and hippie derive from the word hip, whose origins are unknown. The term hipster was coined by Harry Gibson in 1944, by the 1940s, the terms hip, hep and hepcat were popular in Harlem jazz slang, although hep eventually came to denote an inferior status to hip. In Greenwich Village in the early 1960s, New York City, young counterculture advocates were named hips because they were considered in the know or cool, as opposed to being square. In the April 27,1961 issue of The Village Voice, An open letter to JFK & Fidel Castro, Norman Mailer utilizes the term hippies, in questioning JFKs behavior. In a 1961 essay, Kenneth Rexroth used both the hipster and hippies to refer to young people participating in black American or Beatnik nightlife. According to Malcolm Xs 1964 autobiography, the hippie in 1940s Harlem had been used to describe a specific type of white man who acted more Negro than Negroes. Andrew Loog Oldham refers to all the Chicago hippies, seemingly in reference to black musicians, in his rear sleeve notes to the 1965 LP The Rolling Stones. The word hippie was also used in reference to Philadelphia in at least two songs in 1963, South Street by The Orlons, and You Cant Sit Down by The Dovells. In both songs, the term is applied to residents of Philadelphias South Street, in that article, Fallon wrote about the Blue Unicorn Cafe, using the term hippie to refer to the new generation of beatniks who had moved from North Beach into the Haight-Ashbury district. New York Times editor and usage writer Theodore M. Bernstein said the paper changed the spelling from hippy to hippie to avoid the ambiguous description of clothing as hippy fashions. Even the counterculture of the Ancient Greeks, espoused by philosophers like Diogenes of Sinope and the Cynics were also early forms of hippie culture
13.
Bell-bottoms
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Bell-bottoms are a style of trousers that become wider from the knees downward, forming a bell-like shape of the trouser leg. In the early 19th century, when a standardized uniform did not yet exist in the U. S. Navy, the British Royal Navy had often been a leader in nautical fashion, but bell-bottoms did not become part of the standard uniform until the mid-19th century. These bell-bottoms were often just very wide-legged trousers, rather than shaped trousers that flared below the knee and they continued in use as a distinctive feature of the RN ratings square rig uniform until replaced by more conventionally flared trousers in 1977. Although the trousers of the uniform of the United States Navy are still referred to as bell-bottomed. The wearers thigh fills the upper leg, making the bottom of the pants leg appear flared. In the mid-1970s, bell-bottoms became fashionable for men and women in Europe and North America. Often made of denim, they flared out from the bottom of the calf, and had slightly curved hems and they were usually worn with Cuban-heeled shoes, clogs, or Chelsea boots. Toni Basil, who was a dancer when the 1964 concert film the T. A. M. I. Show was released, appeared in the film wearing bell-bottoms with a baby doll blouse, bell-bottoms are mentioned in the popular 1971 music single Bell Bottom Blues by blues-rock group Derek and the Dominos. In the 1970s, bell-bottoms moved back into fashion, Sonny. The pants were typically flared from the knee down, with leg openings of up to twenty-six inches. Made from denim, bright cotton and satin polyester, they were so popular that they became a symbol of the outlandish, loon pants were a variant on bell-bottomed trousers, with an increased flare. They were worn occasionally by go-go dancers on the British television music variety show Ready Steady Go. in 1966, elephant bells, popular in the mid-to-late 1970s, were similar to loon pants, but were typically made of denim. Elephant bells had a marked flare below the knee, often covering the wearers shoes, the preferred shoes were platform shoes with soles at least 2 inches thick and heels 4 to 5 inches to keep the pants hems off the ground. After the rise of rock in the late 1970s, bell-bottoms began to become less-fashionable as the decade drew to a close. By 1979, skin-tight trousers were much more in vogue, with bell-bottoms been seen as having had their day, today, original bell-bottoms from the 1960s and 70s are collectible vintage clothing. In 1996, womens bell-bottoms were reintroduced to the mainstream public, by 1997, flare jeans had come into vogue among women, which had a wider, more exaggerated flare than boot-cuts. The boot-cut style ended up dominating the world for 10 years
14.
Tie-dye
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Tie-dye is a modern term invented in the mid-1960s in the United States ) for a set of ancient resist-dyeing techniques, and for the products of these processes. The process of tie-dye typically consists of folding, twisting, pleating, or crumpling fabric or a garment and binding with string or rubber bands, followed by application of dye. The manipulations of the prior to application of dye are called resists. Unlike regular resist-dyeing techniques, tie-dye is characterized by the use of bright, saturated primary colors and bold patterns. These patterns, including the spiral, mandala, and peace sign, the vast majority of currently produced tie-dyes use these designs, and many are mass-produced for wholesale distribution. A few artists continue to pursue tie-dye as an art rather than a commodity. A variety of dyes can be used in tie-dyeing, including household, fiber reactive, acid, most early tie-dyes were made with retail household dyes, particularly those made by Rit. This is the basis for the famous pink socks phenomenon that occurs when fabrics dyed with mixed dyes are washed with other garments. Most tie-dyes are now dyed with Procion MX fiber reactive dyes, a class of dyes effective on cellulose fibers such as cotton, hemp, rayon and this class of dyes reacts with fibers at alkaline pH, forming a wash-fast, permanent bond. Soda ash is the most common agent used to raise the pH and initiate the reaction, Procion dyes are relatively safe and simple to use, and are the same dyes used commercially to color cellulosic fabrics. Protein-based fibers such as silk, wool, and feathers, as well as the synthetic fiber, nylon. As may be expected from the name, acid dyes are effective at acidic pH, acid dyes are also relatively safe and simple to use. Vat dyes, including indigo, are a class of dyes that are effective on cellulosic fibers. Vat dyes are insoluble in water in their form. This is accomplished by heating the dye in a basic solution of sodium hydroxide or sodium carbonate containing a reducing agent such as sodium hydrosulfite or thiourea dioxide. The fabric is immersed in the dye bath, and after removal the vat dye oxidizes to its insoluble form, however, vat dyes, and especially indigo, must be treated after dyeing by soaping to prevent the dye from rubbing off. Vat dyes can be used to dye the fabric and to remove underlying fiber-reactive dye because of the bleaching action of the reducing bath. The extra complexity and safety issues restrict use of vat dyes in tie-dye to experts, discharge agents are used to bleach color from previously-dyed fabrics, and can be used in a sort of reverse tie-dye
15.
Batik
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Batik is a technique of wax-resist dyeing applied to whole cloth, or cloth made using this technique. Batik is made either by drawing dots and lines of the resist with a tool called a canting. In October 2009, UNESCO designated Indonesian batik as a Masterpiece of Oral, the word batik is Javanese in origin. It may either come from the Javanese word amba and titik, the word is first recorded in English in the Encyclopædia Britannica of 1880, in which it is spelled battik. It is attested in the Indonesian Archipelago during the Dutch colonial period in various forms, mbatek, mbatik, batek, wax resist dyeing of fabric is an ancient art form. It already existed in Egypt in the 4th century BC, where it was used to wrap mummies, linen was soaked in wax, in Asia, the technique was practised in China during the Tang Dynasty, and in India and Japan during the Nara Period. In Africa it was practised by the Yoruba tribe in Nigeria, Soninke. These African version however, uses cassava starch or rice paste, the art of batik is most highly developed in the island of Java in Indonesia. In Java, all the materials for the process are readily available — cotton and beeswax, Indonesian batik predates written records, G. P. Rouffaer argues that the technique might have been introduced during the 6th or 7th century from India or Sri Lanka. On the other hand, the Dutch archaeologist J. L. A, brandes and the Indonesian archaeologist F. A. Rouffaer reported that the gringsing pattern was already known by the 12th century in Kediri, East Java. The motif is thought to represent the lotus, a flower in Hindu-Buddhist beliefs. This evidence suggests that intricate batik fabric patterns applied with the canting existed in 13th-century Java or even earlier. In Europe, the technique was described for the first time in the History of Java, published in London in 1817 by Stamford Raffles, in 1873 the Dutch merchant Van Rijckevorsel gave the pieces he collected during a trip to Indonesia to the ethnographic museum in Rotterdam. Today the Tropenmuseum houses the biggest collection of Indonesian batik in the Netherlands, the Dutch and Chinese colonists were active in developing batik, particularly coastal batik, in the late colonial era. They introduced new patterns as well as the use of the cap to mass-produce batiks, displayed at the Exposition Universelle at Paris in 1900, the Indonesian batik impressed the public and artists. In the 1920s, Javanese batik makers migrating to Malaya introduced the use of wax, in Subsaharan Africa, Javanese batik was introduced in the 19th century by Dutch and English traders. The local people there adapted the Javanese batik, making larger motifs with thicker lines, in the 1970s, batik was introduced to Australia, where aboriginal artists at Erna Bella have developed it as their own craft. Firstly, a cloth is washed, soaked and beaten with a large mallet, patterns are drawn with pencil and later redrawn using hot wax, usually made from a mixture of paraffin or bees wax, sometimes mixed with plant resins, which functions as a dye-resist
16.
Paisley (design)
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Paisley or Paisley pattern is a term in English for a design using the buta or boteh, a droplet-shaped vegetable motif of Persian origin. Some design scholars believe it is the convergence of a stylized floral spray and a cypress tree and it is a bent cedar, and the cedar is the tree Zarathustra planted in paradise. The heavenly tree was “bent” under the weight of the Arab invasion, the bent cedar is also the sign of strength and resistance but modesty. The floral motif was originated in the Sassanid Dynasty and later in the Safavid Dynasty of Persia, in these periods, the pattern was used to decorate royal regalia, crowns, and court garments, as well as textiles used by the general population. According to Azerbaijani historians, the design comes from ancient times of Zoroastrianism and is an expression of the essence of that religion and it subsequently became a decorative element widely used in Azerbaijani culture and architecture. The pattern is popular in Iran and South and Central Asian countries. It is woven using gold or silver threads on silk or other high quality textiles for gifts, for weddings and special occasions. In Iran and Uzbekistan its use goes beyond clothing – paintings, jewelry, frescoes, curtains, tablecloths, quilts, carpets, garden landscaping, in Uzbekistan the most frequently found item featuring the design is the traditional doppi headdress. In Tamil Nadu the manga maalai with matching earrings is a feature of bharathanatyam dance. It is a prominent design in Kanchipuram saris and it has sometimes been associated with Hinduism. In Chinese it is known as the Ham hock pattern, in Russia this ornament is known as cucumbers. Imports from the East India Company in the first half of the 17th century made paisley and other Indian patterns popular, and it was popular in the Baltic states between 1700 and 1800 and was thought to be used as a protective charm to ward off evil demons. Local manufacturers in Marseilles began to mass-produce the patterns via early textile printing processes at 1640, england, circa 1670, and Holland, in 1678, soon followed. This, in turn, provided Europes weavers with more competition than they could bear, however, enforcement near the end of that period was lax, and France had its own printed textile manufacturing industry in place as early at 1746 in some locales. Paisley was not the design produced by French textile printers. In the 19th century European production of paisley increased, particularly in the Scottish town from which the pattern takes its modern name, soldiers returning from the colonies brought home cashmere wool shawls from India, and the East India Company imported more. The design was copied from the silk and wool Kashmir shawls and adapted first for use on handlooms. From roughly 1800 to 1850, the weavers of the town of Paisley in Renfrewshire, Scotland, unique additions to their hand-looms and Jacquard looms allowed them to work in five colors when most weavers were producing paisley using only two
17.
Jacqueline Kennedy
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Jacqueline Lee Jackie Kennedy Onassis was the wife of the 35th President of the United States, John F. Kennedy, and First Lady of the United States from 1961 until his assassination in 1963. Bouvier was the daughter of Wall Street stockbroker John Vernou Bouvier III. In 1951, she graduated with a Bachelor of Arts degree in French literature from George Washington University, in 1952, Bouvier met Congressman John F. Kennedy at a dinner party. In November of that year, he was elected as a United States Senator from Massachusetts, and they had four children, two of whom died in infancy. As First Lady, she was known for her highly publicized restoration of the White House and her emphasis on arts, on November 22,1963, she was riding with the President in a motorcade in Dallas, Texas, when he was assassinated. She and her children withdrew from view after his funeral. Following her second death in 1975, she had a career as a book editor for the final two decades of her life. She is remembered for her contributions to the arts and preservation of historic architecture, as well as for her style, elegance. She was an icon, and her famous ensemble of pink Chanel suit. She ranks as one of the most popular First Ladies and in 1999 was named on Gallups list of Most Admired Men and Women in 20th-century America. Jacqueline Lee Bouvier was born on July 28,1929, at Southampton Hospital in Southampton, New York, to Wall Street stockbroker John Vernou Black Jack Bouvier III, Bouviers mother was of Irish descent, and her father had French, Scottish, and English ancestry. Named after her father, Bouvier was baptized at the Church of St. Ignatius Loyola in Manhattan and her younger sister Lee was born in 1933. Bouvier spent her childhood years in Manhattan and at Lasata. She idolized her father, who favored her over her sister. From an early age, Bouvier was an equestrienne and successfully competed in the sport. She also took lessons, was an avid reader, and excelled at learning languages. Bouvier enrolled in the Chapin School in Manhattan in 1935, which she attended for grades 1–6. She was a student but often misbehaved, one of her teachers described her as a darling child, the prettiest little girl, very clever, very artistic
18.
Venezuela
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Venezuela, officially the Bolivarian Republic of Venezuela, is a federal republic located on the northern coast of South America. It is bordered by Colombia on the west, Brazil on the south, Guyana on the east, Venezuela covers 916,445 km2 and has an estimated population of 31775371. The territory now known as Venezuela was colonized by Spain in 1522 amid resistance from indigenous peoples and it gained full independence as a separate country in 1830. During the 19th century, Venezuela suffered political turmoil and autocracy, since 1958, the country has had a series of democratic governments. This new constitution changed the name of the country to República Bolivariana de Venezuela. Venezuela is a presidential republic consisting of 23 states, the Capital District. Venezuela also claims all Guyanese territory west of the Essequibo River, oil was discovered in the early 20th century, and Venezuela has the worlds largest known oil reserves and has been one of the worlds leading exporters of oil. Previously an underdeveloped exporter of commodities such as coffee and cocoa, oil quickly came to dominate exports. The recovery of oil prices in the early 2000s gave Venezuela oil funds not seen since the 1980s, the Venezuelan government then established populist policies that initially boosted the Venezuelan economy and increased social spending, significantly reducing economic inequality and poverty. However, such policies later became controversial since they destabilized the economy, resulting in hyperinflation, an economic depression. According to the most popular and accepted version, in 1499, the stilt houses in the area of Lake Maracaibo reminded the navigator, Amerigo Vespucci, of the city of Venice, so he named the region Veneziola Piccola Venezia. The name acquired its current spelling as a result of Spanish influence, where the suffix -uela is used as a term, thus. The German language 16th century-term for the area, Klein-Venedig, also means little Venice, however, Martín Fernández de Enciso, a member of the Vespucci and Ojeda crew, gave a different account. In his work Summa de geografía, he states that they found people who called themselves the Veneciuela. Thus, the name Venezuela may have evolved from the native word and it is not known how many people lived in Venezuela before the Spanish conquest, it has been estimated at around one million. In addition to indigenous peoples known today, the population included historic groups such as the Kalina, Auaké, Caquetio, Mariche, the Timoto-Cuica culture was the most complex society in Pre-Columbian Venezuela, with pre-planned permanent villages, surrounded by irrigated, terraced fields. They also stored water in tanks and their houses were made primarily of stone and wood with thatched roofs. They were peaceful, for the most part, and depended on growing crops, regional crops included potatoes and ullucos
19.
Stiletto heel
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A stiletto heel is a long, thin, high heel found on some boots and shoes, usually for women. It is named after the stiletto dagger, the phrase being first recorded in the early 1930s. Stiletto heels may vary in length from 2.5 centimetres to 25 cm or more if a platform sole is used, stiletto-style heels 5 cm or shorter are called kitten heels. Not all high slim heels merit the description stiletto, after their demise in the mid-late 1960s, such slender heels were difficult to find until recently due to changes in the way heels were mass-produced. A real stiletto heel has a stem of solid steel or alloy, the more usual method of mass-producing high shoe heels, i. e. moulded plastic with an internal metal tube for reinforcement, does not achieve the true stiletto shape. Relatively thin high heels were certainly around in the late 19th century, firm photographic evidence exists in the form of photographs of Parisian singer Mistinguett from the 1940s. These shoes were designed by Andre Perugia, who began designing shoes in 1906 and it seems unlikely that he invented the stiletto, but he is probably the first firmly-documented designer of the high, slim heel. The word stiletto is derived from stiletto, which is a long, thin blade and its usage in footwear first appeared in print in the New Statesman magazine in 1959, She came. forward, her walk made lopsided by the absence of one heel of the stilettos. High-heel shoes were worn by men and women courtiers, the stiletto heel came with the advent of technology using a supporting metal shaft or stem embedded into the heel, instead of wood or other, weaker materials that required a wide heel. This revival of the opulent heel style can be attributed to the designer Roger Vivier, as time went on, stiletto heels would become known more for their erotic nature than for their ability to make height. Stiletto heels are a common fetish item, as a fashion item, their popularity has changed over time. As a result of the sharpness of outline, it was customary for women to refer to the whole shoe as a stiletto, not just the heel. A version of the heel was reintroduced in 1974 by Manolo Blahnik. Similar heels were stocked at the big Biba store in London, by Russell & Bromley, subsequently, round-toe shoes with slightly thicker semi-stiletto heels, often very high in an attempt to convey slenderness were frequently worn at the office with wide-shouldered power suits. The style survived through much of the 1980s but almost completely disappeared during the 1990s, the slender stiletto heel staged a major comeback after 2000 when young women adopted the style for dressing up office wear or adding a feminine touch to casual wear, like jeans. Stiletto heels are particularly associated with the image of the femme fatale and they are often considered to be a seductive item of clothing, and often feature in popular culture in this context. Stilettos, like all similar high-heeled shoes, give the illusion of a longer, slimmer leg, a smaller foot. They alter the wearers posture and gait, flexing the muscles and making the bust
20.
Capri pants
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Capri pants are pants that are longer than shorts but are not as long as trousers. They typically come down to between knee and calf or ankle length, capris are widely popular with people in many countries, especially in the United States, Europe, Latin America, and Asia. Capri pants were introduced by fashion designer Sonja de Lennart in 1948, the pants name derives from the Italian isle of Capri, where they rose to popularity in the late 1950s and early 60s. The American actress Grace Kelly was among the first movie stars who wore capris on the island, capris acceptance in the United States was influenced by the 1960s television series The Dick Van Dyke Show. The character Laura Petrie, the young housewife played by Mary Tyler Moore, caused a fashion sensation –, after a drop in popularity during the 1970s through the 1990s, capris returned to favor in the late 1990s. Spanish tennis player Rafael Nadal wore capri pants in the majority of his matches before 2009
21.
Frankie Avalon
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Frankie Avalon is an Italian-American actor, singer, and former teen idol. He is a figure in mid 20th century entertainment and an icon in the history of American rock. Avalon was born in Philadelphia, the son of Mary and Nicholas Avallone, in December 1952, he made his American network television debut playing the trumpet in the Honeymooners Christmas Party sketch on The Jackie Gleason Show. Two singles showcasing Avalons trumpet playing were issued on RCA Victors X sublabel in 1954 and his trumpet playing was also featured on some of his LP songs as well. As a teenager he played with Bobby Rydell in Rocco and the Saints, in 1959, Venus and Why went to number one on the Billboard Hot 100. Why was the last #1 of the 1950s, Avalon had 31 charted U. S. Billboard singles from 1958 to late 1962, including Just Ask Your Heart, Ill Wait for You, Bobby Sox to Stockings, and A Boy Without a Girl. Most of his hits were written and/or produced by Bob Marcucci and he was less popular in the U. K. but did still manage four chart hits with Why, Ginger Bread, Venus and Dont Throw Away All Those Teardrops. Avalons first film was an appearance in Jamboree, playing a trumpet. In the late 1950s, teen idols were often given roles in movies supporting older male stars in order to attract a younger audience, Avalon was a favourite of the daughter of Alan Ladd who recommended him to co-star with her father in the Western Guns of the Timberland. Avalon sings two songs, The Faithful Kind and Gee Whiz Whillikins Golly Gee, both were released as singles, rushes for Timberland were seen by John Wayne, who was looking for a young actor to play the role of Smitty in his passion project, The Alamo. Avalon was cast in his second dramatic part, after making the film Wayne told the press Were not cutting one bit of any scene in which Frankie appears. I believe he is the finest young talent Ive seen in a long time, mr Wayne said I was natural as far as acting goes, said Avalon. He added, My ambition when I was ten years old was to have my own band like Harry James. I never expected anything like this, id like to be identified as a singer, dancer and actor. I dont want to be just one thing, I like to appeal to teenagers and adults, he said in 1960. Avalon was now in demand as an actor, for Irwin Allen he had a small role and sang the title role in the science fiction adventure film, Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea, a solid hit. He had a role in a comedy, Sail a Crooked Ship. Avalon was teamed with Ray Milland in the fiction film. Samuel Z. Arkoff of AIP said Avalon and Milland were teamed together because both have particular types of followers and the combination adds up to an attraction
22.
Annette Funicello
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Annette Joanne Funicello was an American actress and singer. Funicello began her career as a child performer at the age of twelve. She rose to prominence as one of the most popular Mouseketeers on the original Mickey Mouse Club, in 1992, Funicello announced that she had been diagnosed with multiple sclerosis. She died of complications from the disease on April 8,2013, Annette Joanne Funicello was born in Utica, New York, to Italian Americans Virginia Jeanne and Joseph Funicello. Her family moved to Southern California when she was four years old, Annette took dancing and music lessons as a child to overcome shyness. In 1955, the 12-year-old was discovered by Walt Disney when she performed as the Swan Queen in Swan Lake at a recital at the Starlight Bowl in Burbank. Disney cast her as one of the original Mouseketeers and she was the last to be selected, and one of the few cast-members to be personally selected by Walt Disney himself. She proved to be popular and by the end of the first season of The Mickey Mouse Club, she was receiving 6,000 letters a month. In addition to appearing in many Mouseketeer sketches and dance routines, in a hayride scene in the Annette serial, she performed the song that launched her singing career. The studio received so much mail about How Will I Know My Love, that Walt Disney issued it as a single, a proposed live-action feature Rainbow Road to Oz was to have starred some of the Mouseketeers, including Darlene Gillespie as Dorothy and Funicello as Ozma. Preview segments from the film aired on September 11,1957, by then, MGMs The Wizard of Oz had already been shown on CBS Television for the first time. Theories on why the film was abandoned include Disneys failure to develop a script. Disney ultimately replaced this project with a new adaptation of Babes in Toyland. After the Mickey Mouse Club, she remained under contract with Disney for a time, with roles in Zorro, Elfego Baca. For Zorro she played Anita Cabrillo in a storyline about a teen-aged girl arriving in Los Angeles to visit a father who does not seem to exist. This role was reportedly a birthday present from Walt Disney, Annette also co-starred in Disney-produced movies such as The Shaggy Dog, Babes in Toyland, The Misadventures of Merlin Jones, and The Monkeys Uncle. The Monkeys Uncle featured Annette singing with The Beach Boys and they were released by Disneys Buena Vista label. Annette also recorded Its Really Love in 1959, a reworking of an earlier Paul Anka song called Toot Sweet, Paul Anka was noted to have a crush on her, however, Walt Disney overprotected Annette, which broke Pauls heart
23.
Beach party film
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With this film, AIP is credited with creating the genre. In addition to the AIP films, several contributions to the genre were produced and released by major, according to various sources, the genre comprises over 30 films, with the lower-budget AIP films being the most profitable. The earliest films by AIP, as well as those by other studios, focused on surfing, one of the earliest uses of the term in print is found several times in the June 1965 issue of Mad magazine in an article written by Larry Siegel. Commentators on the genre have used this term as well, occasionally the term “surf movie” refers to a straightforward dramatic film that uses surfing as a backdrop or plot device, such as Big Wednesday or Blue Crush. Both films, which were up-front comedies for teenagers, employed the tried and true formula of a popular trend coupled with romance, arkoff said that he didn’t care much for the Italian production because “there’s not enough there that American teenagers can identify with. But the beach is a setting for a teenage movie. And it doesn’t hurt to show girls in bathing suits. Unlike previous films such as the aforementioned Gidget and Love in a Goldfish Bowl, parental characters do not appear in any of the AIP films, and are rarely mentioned in their plots, if at all. Additionally, these movies were produced as escapism, so the characters in them lived in a world where the focus was on having a good time. The advertising for the films was also fairly suggestive for the period, promising on the poster much in the way of teenage sex. For example, Beach Party teased, “It’s what happens when 10,000 kids meet on 5000 beach blankets. ”While Muscle Beach Party promised, “When 10,000 biceps go around 5,000 bikinis, you know what’s going to happen. ”Likewise, Ski Party intoned, “It’s where the HE’S meet the SHE’s on SKIS – and there’s only one way to get warm. ”Though the clothing for both sexes in the cast was revealing by the standard of the day, the films never featured any sex scenes or nudity. In reality, more “sex” was suggested in these films – as well as their posters and trailers – than in anything the studio had previously produced. Arkoff was able to get 1956 Academy-award winner Dorothy Malone and the popular Bob Cummings as adult supporting characters, the deal came with one caveat, that Funicello not appear in a bikini. With Avalon and Funicello on board, a pairing was evident. American International Pictures produced a series of films that fall into the genre. With the exception of Sergeant Deadhead, Fireball 500 and Thunder Alley, Funicello does not appear in Avalon’s Sergeant Deadhead and Avalon does not appear in Funicello’s Thunder Alley. Although the film was styled as a sequel, its content does not place it in the party genre. As mentioned above, in addition to Avalon and Funicello appearing in every film, AIP employed several newer actors
24.
Bikini
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A bikini is usually a womens abbreviated two-piece swimsuit with a bra top for the chest and underwear cut below the navel. The basic design is simple, two triangles of fabric on top cover the breasts and two triangles of fabric on the bottom cover the groin in front and the buttocks in back. The size of a bottom can range from full pelvic coverage to a revealing thong or G-string design. The name for the design was coined in 1946 by Parisian engineer Louis Réard. He named the swimsuit after Bikini Atoll, where testing on the bomb was taking place. Fashion designer Jacques Heim, also from Paris, re-released a similar design earlier that same year, due to its controversial and revealing design, the bikini was slow to be adopted. In many countries it was banned from beaches and public places, the bikini design became common in most Western countries by the mid-1960s as beachwear, swimwear and underwear. By the late 20th century it had become common as sportswear in sports such as beach volleyball, variations of the term are used to describe stylistic variations for promotional purposes and industry classifications, including monokini, microkini, tankini, trikini, pubikini, and skirtini. A mans brief swimsuit may also be referred to as a bikini, similarly, a variety of mens and womens underwear types are described as bikini underwear. The bikini has gradually grown to wide acceptance in Western society. By the early 2000s, bikinis had become a US$811 million business annually, while the two-piece swimsuit as a design existed in classical antiquity, the modern design first attracted public notice in Paris on July 5,1946. Four days earlier, the United States had initiated its first peace-time nuclear weapons test at Bikini Atoll as part of Operation Crossroads, Réard hoped his swimsuits revealing style would create an explosive commercial and cultural reaction similar to the explosion at Bikini Atoll. Later swimsuit designs like the tankini and trikini further cemented this false assumption, although bikini was originally a registered trademark of Réard, it has since become genericized. A mans brief swimsuit may also be referred to as a bikini, similarly, a variety of mens and womens underwear types are described as bikini underwear. The two-piece swimsuit can be traced back to the Greco-Roman world, the mosaic, found in the Sicilian Villa Romana del Casale, features ten maidens who have been anachronistically dubbed the Bikini Girls. Other Roman archaeological finds depict the goddess Venus in a similar garment, in Pompeii, depictions of Venus wearing a bikini were discovered in the Casa della Venere, in the tablinum of the House of Julia Felix, and in an atrium garden of Via DellAbbondanza. Swimming or bathing outdoors was discouraged in the Christian West, so there was little demand or need for swimming or bathing costumes until the 18th century. The bathing gown of the 18th century was a loose ankle-length full-sleeve chemise-type gown made of wool or flannel that retained coverage, in 1913, designer Carl Jantzen made the first functional two-piece swimwear
25.
Bikini Atoll
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Bikini Atoll is an atoll in the Marshall Islands which consists of 23 islands totaling 3.4 square miles surrounding a deep 229. 4-square-mile central lagoon. It is at the end of the Ralik Chain, approximately 87 kilometres northwest of Ailinginae Atoll and 850 kilometres northwest of Majuro. Within Bikini Atoll, Bikini, Eneu, Nam, and Enidrik islands comprise just over 70% of the land area, Bikini and Eneu are the only islands of the atoll that hosted a permanent population. Bikini Island is the northeastern most and largest islet, before World War II, the atoll was known by its German name, Eschscholtz Atoll. The islands English name is derived from the German colonial name Bikini given to the atoll when it was part of German New Guinea. The German name is transliterated from the Marshallese name for the island, Pikinni, Pik meaning surface and Ni meaning coconut, before the advent of Western influence, the Bikini islanders sustenance-based lifestyle was based on cultivating native plants and eating shellfish and fish. They were skilled builders and navigators, sailing the two-hulled proa to and from islets around the Bikini. The islanders were relatively isolated and had developed a society bound by close extended family association and tradition. Every lagoon was led by a king and queen and a following of chieftains, some of the leaders maintained Asian-style bungalows and maintained servants, including secretaries, maids, and valets. The islanders worked the plantations under the watchful eye of the Japanese. Chiefs could retain as much as $20,000 per year, the Marshall islanders were formerly aggressive, but the influence of the mission churches eliminated most conflict. They took pride in extending hospitality to one another, even distant relatives, the men wore a fringe skirt of native materials about 25 to 30 inches long. Women traditionally wore two mats about a square each, made by weaving pandanus and hibiscus leaves together. The Christian missionaries who began arriving in the late 19th century influenced the islanders notions of modesty, in 1919, a visitor reported that Marshall Islands women are perfect models of prudery. Not one would think of exposing her ankles, women in the Marshall Islands today are still very modest. They believe that a womans thighs and shoulders should be covered, women generally wear cotton muʻumuʻus or similar clothing that covers most of the body. Personal health is never discussed except within the family, and women are especially private about female-related health issues, Marshall island women swim in muʻumuʻus which are made of a fine polyester that quickly dries. In the capital of Majuro, revealing cocktail dresses are inappropriate for both islanders and guests, with the increasing influence of Western media, the younger generation may wear shorts, though the older generation equates shorts with loose morals
26.
Beach Party
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Beach Party is a 1963 American film which was the first of seven beach party films from American International Pictures aimed at a teen audience. This film is credited with creating the beach party film genre. An anthropologist, Professor Robert Orville Sutwell is secretly studying the wild mating habits of Southern California teenagers who hang out at the beach and use strange surfing jargon. After he temporarily paralyzes Eric Von Zipper, the leader of the outlaw motorcycle club. Her surfing boyfriend Frankie becomes jealous and begins flirting with Ava, meanwhile, Sutwells assistant Marianne further develops her crush on the Professor. Von Zipper and his plot to bring down Sutwell, only to be thwarted in the end by the surfing teenagers. In the summer of 1962 Samuel Arkoff and Jim Nicholson were watching films in Italy with a view to purchasing some for release in the US and they saw one about a middle-aged man who falls in love with a young woman who spends all her time at a beach resort. They did not like the movie but were attracted by the setting, the film was announced in July 1962. It was part of AIPs policy of mass entertainment on a frankly escapist level, rusoffs script was apparently more in line with AIPs traditional fare of children getting in trouble with their parents. It was shown to William Asher who agreed to make the movie if it more of a musical comedy about teenagers having a good time. Arkoff and Nicholson agreed so Asher rewrote the script with Robert Dillon and he was asked not to take credit by Samuel Arkoff who told them that Lou Rusoff was dying of brain cancer. Asher agreed and Rusoff has sole credit, he died in June 1963, Annette Funicello was always first choice for the female lead, although Asher says they were worried because she was under contract to Walt Disney, We had thirty pages of material. Not having all the material, he was concerned about Annettes image, I told him that there wouldnt be anything that would offend, that it wasnt that type of a picture. They were a little wary because it was AIP, Arkoff says that AIP tried to get Fabian Forte to play opposite her but he was under contract to 20th Century Fox so Frankie Avalon was cast instead. In July 1962 it was announced Avalon would play the lead with Funicello probably appearing alongside him, Avalon had made Panic in the Year Zero for AIP and was friendly with Lou Rousoff. He says they would talk about doing a picture about young people and it was about young guys on a beach with their girls, Avalon says. The next thing I knew, they cast this girl on loan from Disney called Annette Funicello, I had worked with Bill when he was doing a lot of specials for television. We talked about the project, and sooner or later we were on the set doing it, john Ashley had made a number of movies for American International and was cast to play Avalons best friend
27.
Go-go boot
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Go-go boots are a low-heeled style of womens fashion boot first introduced in the mid-1960s. The original go-go boots, as defined by André Courrèges in 1964, were white, low-heeled, and mid-calf in height, a specific style which is sometimes called the Courrèges boot. The term go-go is derived from the French expression à gogo, meaning in abundance, galore, which is in turn derived from the ancient French word la gogue for joy, happiness. The term go-go has also explained as a 1964 back-formation of the 1962 slang term go, meaning something that was all the rage. The go-go boot is presumed to have named after the dance style. Fashion boots were revived in the early 1960s by designers such as Beth Levine, although at first they featured fashionable high heels such as the stiletto and kitten heels. The earliest go-go boots were mid-calf, white and flat-heeled, as seen in the work of the designer André Courrèges, the simple minimalism of the Courrèges boot was easily and widely reproduced for the mass market. Courrèges boots provided the foundation for the development of the go-go boot, while remaining low-ish, the heel also became higher and chunkier. The earliest Courrèges boots were made of leather, such as kidskin or patent leather, but many of the subsequent versions and copies were made in PVC, vinyl, and other plastics. In 1966, the song These Boots Are Made for Walkin was released and performed by a go-go boot wearing Nancy Sinatra, tim Gunn suggests that Sinatra helped establish the boot as a symbol of female power. Female dancers on the television shows Hullabaloo and Shindig, also wore the short, white boots. In the mid 1990s, as part of a revival of 1960s fashions. The dictionary definition of go-go at Wiktionary
28.
Slim-fit pants
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Slim-fit pants or skinny jeans have a snug fit through the legs and end in a small leg opening that can be anywhere from 9 to 20 in circumference, depending on size. Other names for this style include drainpipes, stovepipes, tight pants, cigarette pants, skinny jeans, pencil pants, skinny pants, gas pipes, in some styles, zippers are needed at the bottom of the leg to facilitate pulling them over the feet. Stretch denim, with anywhere from 2% to 4% spandex, may be used to allow jeans to have a super-slim fit, skinny jeans come in a variety of colors and styles. Before the 18th century, European men wore breeches and hose, in Tudor times, these breeches were loose-fitting, but by the 1660s, tight breeches were fashionable. During the Restoration era, the breeches were introduced to England. From the 16th until the 19th century, the Mughlai nobility attired themselves in tight-fitting Churidars which were tied below the knee. These trousers, and other elements of clothing like the Shalwar Kameez, were often worn by Englishmen working in India. Tight fitting trousers were fashionable from 1805 until 1850, being descended from the loose trousers worn as a political statement by Sans-Culottes during the French Revolution. Pantaloons were tied around the ankle and commonly put into boots, pants, which had come to mean tight-fitting trousers, but now just a synonym, fitted more loosely from the 1840s onwards as mass-production replaced tailoring. Beginning in the Edwardian era and continuing into the 1920s, baggy Oxford or collegiate trousers, as the name suggests, Oxford bags originated at the UKs elite universities, where young upper class men pursued an active, sports-centred lifestyle. Tapered jeans became most notable country music stars and with the birth of rock and roll in the 1950s. Drainpipe jeans and rock n roll were inextricably linked to create the bad boy image that remains today, in the early 1960s, drainpipes were worn by numerous rock bands and musicians, including The Beatles, The Rolling Stones and Bob Dylan. Fashion icon Audrey Hepburn also raised the popularity of drainpipe jeans, slim fitting pants and jeans were essentially worn not just by people who were associated with the Mods or rockers but also ordinary people. The trend lasted until the end of the 1960s when hippie culture gave rise to the return to fashionability of flared pants, in the early 1970s, glam rock and rockabilly bands reviving the Teddy Boy look popularised drainpipe jeans in contrast to the flared trousers worn by hippies. Red tartan drainpipe jeans were popular in the subculture of the late 1970s. Skin-tight acid-washed jeans were popular in the 1980s with most heavy metal bands. This was the trend for those who did not wear spandex and they were often worn with white high-top sneakers or basketball shoes like Converse. By the late 1980s, drainpipe pants were largely superseded by straight leg jeans like Levi 501s, tight fitting jeans were also worn by pop stars like Michael Jackson and Freddie Mercury
29.
Audrey Hepburn
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Audrey Hepburn was a British actress, model, dancer and humanitarian. Recognized as a film and fashion icon, Hepburn was active during Hollywoods Golden Age and she was ranked by the American Film Institute as the third-greatest female screen legend in Golden Age Hollywood and was inducted into the International Best Dressed List Hall of Fame. Born in Ixelles, a district of Brussels, Hepburn spent her childhood between Belgium, England and the Netherlands, following minor appearances in several films, Hepburn starred in the 1951 Broadway play Gigi after being spotted by French novelist Colette, on whose work the play was based. She shot to stardom for playing the role in Roman Holiday, for which she was the first actress to win an Academy Award, a Golden Globe. The same year Hepburn won a Tony Award for Best Lead Actress in a Play for her performance in Ondine, Hepburn won a record three BAFTA Awards for Best British Actress in a Leading Role. In recognition of her career, she was awarded the Lifetime Achievement Award from BAFTA. DeMille Award, the Screen Actors Guild Life Achievement Award and the Special Tony Award and she remains one of the few people who have won Academy, Emmy, Grammy and Tony Awards. Hepburn appeared in films as her life went on, devoting much of her later life to UNICEF. She had contributed to the organisation since 1954, then worked in some of the poorest communities of Africa, South America and she was awarded the Presidential Medal of Freedom in recognition of her work as a UNICEF Goodwill Ambassador in December 1992. A month later, Hepburn died of cancer at her home in Switzerland at the age of 63. Hepburn was born Audrey Kathleen Ruston or Edda Kathleen Hepburn-Ruston on 4 May 1929 at number 48 Rue Keyenveld in Ixelles and her father, Joseph Victor Anthony Ruston, was a British subject born in Auschitz, Bohemia, Austria-Hungary. He was the son of Victor John George Ruston, of British and Austrian descent and Anna Wels, Hepburns mother, Ella van Heemstra, was a Dutch baroness. At age nineteen, Ella had married Jonkheer Hendrik Gustaaf Adolf Quarles van Ufford, an oil based in Batavia, Dutch East Indies. They had two sons, Jonkheer Arnoud Robert Alexander Quarles van Ufford and Jonkheer Ian Edgar Bruce Quarles van Ufford, Hepburns parents were married in Batavia in September 1926. At the time, Ruston worked for a company, but soon after the marriage, the couple relocated to Europe. After a year in London, they moved to Brussels, where he had assigned to open a branch office. After three years spent travelling between Brussels, Arnhem, The Hague and London, the family settled to the suburban Brussels municipality of Linkebeek in 1932, Hepburns early childhood was sheltered and privileged. In the mid-1930s, Hepburns parents recruited and collected donations for the British Union of Fascists, Joseph left the family abruptly in 1935, which Hepburn later professed was the most traumatic event of my life
30.
Levi Strauss
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Levi Strauss was an American businessman of German origin who founded the first company to manufacture blue jeans. His firm, Levi Strauss & Co. began in 1853 in San Francisco, Levi Strauss was born in Buttenheim, Germany, on February 26,1829, in the Franconian region of Bavaria, Germany, to an Ashkenazi Jewish family. He was the son of Hirsch Strauss and his second wife Rebecca Strauss, Levis sister Fanny and her husband David Stern moved to St. Louis, Missouri, while Levi went to live in Louisville, Kentucky, and sold his brothers supplies in Kentucky. In January 1853, Levi Strauss became an American citizen, the family decided to open a West Coast branch of the family dry goods business in San Francisco, which was the commercial hub of the California Gold Rush. Levi was chosen to represent the family and he took a steamship for San Francisco, arriving in early March 1853, where he joined his sisters family. Strauss opened his dry goods wholesale business as Levi Strauss & Co. and imported fine dry goods—clothing, bedding, combs, purses and he made tents, and later jeans. Levi lived with Fannys growing family, Jacob Davis, one of Strausss customers and one of the inventors of riveted denim pants in 1871, went into business with Strauss to produce blue jeans. The two men patented the new style of work pants in 1873, Levi Strauss died on September 26,1902, in San Francisco at the age of 73. He never married, and left the business to his four nephews, Jacob, Sigmund, Louis, and Abraham Stern and he also left bequests to a number of charities, such as the Pacific Hebrew Orphan Asylum and the Roman Catholic Orphan Asylum. Before his death, he had also established scholarships at the University of California Berkeley, Levis fortune was estimated to be around $6 million. He was buried in Colma, California, the Levi Strauss museum in Buttenheim, Germany, is located in the 1687 house where Strauss was born. There is also a Visitors Center at Levi Strauss & Co. headquarters in San Francisco, the Levi Strauss Foundation started with an 1897 donation to the University of California, Berkeley. Https, //sites. google. com/site/levistraussfamily/, http, //archive. is/ELJXG Levi Strauss & Company Biography of Levi Strauss from the Official Levi Strauss Site, Levi Strauss at Findagrave Levis Levis India Levi Strauss Museum in Buttenheim, Germany Levi Strauss at the Fashion Model Directory
31.
Mod (subculture)
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Mod is a subculture that began in the United Kingdom in the 1960s and spread, in varying degrees, to other countries and continues today on a smaller scale. Significant elements of the mod subculture include fashion, music, the original mod scene was associated with amphetamine-fuelled all-night dancing at clubs. In England during the early to mid 1960s, mods often engaged in brawls with rockers, in the mid-to-late 1960s, the conflicts between mods and rockers subsided, as several rock bands, including The Who and the Small Faces adopted a mod style. London became synonymous with fashion, music, and pop culture in these years, a period often referred to as Swinging London. There was a mod revival in the United Kingdom in the late 1970s, which was followed by a mod revival in North America in the early 1980s, particularly in southern California, Vancouver, and Toronto. The term mod derives from modernist, a used in the 1950s to describe modern jazz musicians and fans. This usage contrasted with the term trad, which described traditional jazz players, the 1959 novel Absolute Beginners describes modernists as young modern jazz fans who dress in sharp modern Italian clothes. The novel may be one of the earliest examples of the term being written to describe young British style-conscious modern jazz fans and this usage of the word modernist should not be confused with modernism in the context of literature, art, design and architecture. From the mid-to-late 1960s onwards, the media often used the term mod in a wider sense to describe anything that was believed to be popular. Paul Jobling and David Crowley argue that the definition of mod can be difficult to pin down, because throughout the original era. They claim that since the mod scene was so pluralist, the mod was an umbrella term that covered several distinct sub-scenes. Early mods watched French and Italian art films and read Italian magazines to look for style ideas, while clothes were still important at that time, they could be ready-made. Mary Anne Long argues that first hand accounts and contemporary theorists point to the Jewish upper-working or middle-class of London’s East End and suburbs. Simon Frith asserts that the mod subculture had its roots in the 1950s beatnik coffee bar culture, sparks argues that Mod has been much misunderstood. As this working-class, scooter-riding precursor of skinheads, coffee bars were attractive to British youths because, in contrast to typical pubs, which closed at about 11pm, they were open until the early hours of the morning. Coffee bars had jukeboxes, which in some cases reserved space in the machines for the customers own records, in the late 1950s, coffee bars were associated with jazz and blues, but in the early 1960s, they began playing more R&B music. Frith notes that although coffee bars were originally aimed at art school students, they began to facilitate an intermixing of youths from different backgrounds. Violent clashes would often ensue between the two groups and this period was later immortalized by songwriter Pete Townshend, in the Whos 1973 concept album, Quadrophenia
32.
Greaser (subculture)
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Greasers are a working-class youth subculture that was popularized in the late 1940s and 1950s by predominately working class and lower class teenagers and young adults in the United States. The subculture remained prominent into the mid-1960s and was embraced by certain ethnic groups in urban areas, though rural. Rock and roll music, rockabilly, and doo wop were major parts of the culture, the name greaser came from their greased-back hairstyles, which involved combing back hair using creams, tonics, or pomade. In Sweden they are called raggare and in Japan they are known as Yankee, in South Africa they were called duck-tails from the way their slicked back hair flipped over the back of their collars. The 1950s and 1960s British equivalent was the rocker, also known as a ton-up boy, both subcultures are known for being fans of 1950s Doo Wop, Rock and roll, jazz, blues, country, and rockabilly music. During the 1950s, women became a part of greaser culture. Like men, they joined motorcycle gangs and wore jackets displaying their groups or gangs name, the women who were involved in gangs typically did not fight side-by-side with male gangs, but they did fight rival female gangs in the 1950s. Women were often depicted as the property of male gang members. The term greaser reappeared in later decades as part of a revival of 1950s popular culture, One of the first manifestations of this revival was a 1971 American 7 Up television commercial that featured a 1950s greaser saying Hey remember me. The music act Sha Na Na also played a role in the revivals. Common accessories included s, black gloves, fedoras, motorcycle helmets, vintage leather caps, stingy-brim hats, flat caps. Common footwear included motorcycle boots, combact boots, winklepickers, brothel creepers, cowboy boots, typical hairstyles included the pompadour, the Ducks ass, S-Curls, Conks, Finger Waves, Afros with parts or shaped like pompadours, and the more combed-back Folsom style. These hairstyles were held in place with such as Dax, Murrays or Royal Crown. The leather jacket, as popularized by pilots during World War II, compared with the previous decades, the 1950s were considered dull and the youths craved a new sense of adventure. The leather jacket marked greaser youths as daring and adventuresome young men, greasers are usually portrayed as urban, street-wise, working-class ethnics, most often Italian American or Hispanic American. In the 1950s, Hollywood film characters portrayed by such as Marlon Brando. American youths were looking for entertainment and identity following the image of the World War II generation. The 1950s was a time for many of Americas youths
33.
Ton-up Boys
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Rockers, leather boys, Ton-up boys, and possibly café racers are members of a biker subculture that originated in the United Kingdom during the 1950s. It was mainly centred on British café racer motorcycles and rock n roll music, Rockers were also derisively known as Coffee Bar Cowboys. Their Japanese equivalent was called the Kaminari-zoku, until the post-war period motorcycling held a prestigious position and enjoyed a positive image in British society, being associated with wealth and glamour. Starting in the 1950s, the classes were able to buy inexpensive motorcars so that motorcycles became transport for the poor. During the 1950s, they were known as Ton-Up boys because doing a ton was English slang for driving at a speed of 100 mph or over, the Teddy boys were considered their spiritual ancestors. The rockers or ton-up boys took what was essentially a sport and turned it into a lifestyle, dropping out of mainstream society and this damaged the public image of motorcycling in the UK and led to the politicisation of the motorcycling community. The mass media started targeting these socially powerless youths and cast them as folk devils, from the 1960s on, due to the media fury surrounding the mods and rockers, motorcycling youths became more commonly known as rockers, a term previously little known outside small groups. The public came to consider rockers as hopelessly naive, loutish, scruffy, motorized cowboys, the term café racer originated in the 1950s, when bikers often frequented transport cafés, using them as starting and finishing points for road races. A café racer is a motorcycle that has been modified for speed, features include, a single racing seat, low handlebars, large racing petrol tanks, swept-back exhaust pipes, rear-set footpegs with or without half or full race fairings. These motorcycles were lean, light and handled various road surfaces well, the most defining machine of the rocker heyday was the Triton, which was a custom motorcycle made of a Norton Featherbed frame and a Triumph Bonneville engine. It used the most common and fastest racing engine combined with the best handling frame of its day, other popular motorcycle brands included BSA, Royal Enfield and Matchless. The term café racers is now used to describe motorcycle riders who prefer vintage British. These modern café racers have taken elements of the American greaser, British rocker, Rockers bought standard factory-made motorcycles and stripped them down, tuning them up and modifying them to appear like racing bikes. First seen in the United States and then England, the fashion style was born out of necessity and practicality. Rockers wore heavily-decorated leather motorcycle jackets, often adorned with metal studs, patches, when they rode their motorcycles, they usually wore no helmet, or wore a classic open-face helmet, aviator goggles and a white silk scarf. Other common items included, T-shirts, leather caps, Levis or Wrangler jeans, leather trousers, also popular was a patch declaring membership of the 59 Club of England, a church-based youth organization that later formed into a motorcycle club with members all over the world. The rocker hairstyle, kept in place with Brylcreem, was usually a tame or exaggerated pompadour hairstyle, as was popular with some 1950s rock, largely due to their clothing styles and dirtiness, the rockers were not widely welcomed by venues such as pubs and dance halls. Rockers also transformed rock and roll dancing into a more violent and they were generally reviled by the British motorcycle industry and general enthusiasts as being as an embarrassment and bad for the industry and the sport
34.
Jeans
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Jeans are pants, a type of garment, typically made from denim or dungaree cloth. Prior to the Levi Strauss patented trousers, the blue jeans had been long in use for various garments. Originally designed for cowboys and miners, jeans became popular in the 1950s among teenagers, Jeans were a common fashion item in the 1960s Hippie subculture and they continued to be popular in the 1970s and 1980s youth subcultures of punk rock and heavy metal. Historic brands include Levis, Lee, and Wrangler, distressed jeans trousers have become increasingly fashionable, making pre-sale factory distressing a common feature in commercially sold jeans. In the 2010s, jeans are a popular article of casual dress around the world. They come in many styles and colors, however, blue jeans are particularly identified with American culture, especially the Old West. Research on the trade of jean fabric shows that it emerged in the cities of Genoa, Italy, gênes, the French word for Genoa, may be the origin of the word jeans. In Nimes, weavers tried to reproduce jean but instead developed a similar fabric that became known as denim, from de Nimes. Genoa’s jean was a fustian textile of medium quality and of reasonable cost, very similar to cotton corduroy for which Genoa was famous, nimes’s denim was coarser, considered higher quality and was used for over garments such as smocks or overalls. Nearly all Indigo, needed for dyeing, came from indigo bush plantations in India till the late 19th century and it was replaced by indigo synthesis methods developed in Germany. By the 17th century, jean was a crucial textile for working-class people in Northern Italy and this is seen in a series of genre paintings from around the 17th century attributed to an artist now named The Master of the Blue Jeans. The ten paintings depict impoverished scenes with lower-class figures wearing a fabric that looks like denim, the fabric would have been Genoese jean, which was cheaper. Genre painting came to prominence in late 16th century, and the subject matter in all ten paintings places them among others that portray similar scenes. Denim is not the only sturdy cotton fabric used for everything from working clothes to fashion items and this cloth was dungri in Hindi. Dungri was exported to England and used for manufacturing of cheap and it was rumored that men would carry dead dung beetles in their pocket for luck. In English, the word dungri became pronounced as dungaree, the importance of jean is also shown by the history of textile trade. Genoese sailors used jean to cover and protect their goods on the docks from the weather, during the Republic of Genoa, sailors exported jeans throughout Europe. Jean became popular in the United States when Levi Strauss & Co. s introduced blue jean overalls in 1873
35.
Schott Perfecto
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Perfecto is a brand of lancer fronted leather motorcycle jackets designed by Irving Schott and manufactured by American clothing company Schott NYC. The first jacket was introduced in 1928, making it the first such styled leather motorcycle jacket and it was soon nicknamed the One Star because it had a star on each shoulder epaulette. These jackets have a snug, almost tailored fit, which is suited for motorcycle riding but are short by todays standards, the 613 and 618 Perfectos have been produced for more than 50 years, so finding out when a vintage jacket was made can be difficult. There have, however, been slight variations in the design over time, some of the details in the timeline below overlap. The 613 One Star is introduced, jackets are made out of horsehide. Neck label is rectangular, black with Perfecto App U. S Pat, Genuine Horsehide Front Quarter - Style Quality printed in gold letters. TALON main and cuff zippers and Miter belt buckle, side pockets are at an approx. 60° angle and breast pocket at a 50° angle, zippers close up, jackets have snaps for attaching fur collar, no snaps on collar, plain snaps, sleeves are double stitched, epaulettes are also double stitched and have a rounded end. Stitching on collar is placed further in than it is on lapels, lining is black with grid stitching. Straight lower back panel and underside of sleeves are one piece, inner lower facing and sleeve plackets are made out of faux leather/vinyl. It is identical to the 613 except for the lack of stars, in The Wild One, the stars on the epaulettes and the snaps on the collar of Marlon Brandos jacket were not original, but added to the jacket. Its popularity and connection to The Wild One movie led to it being banned from sale in many districts of the England and USA, jackets are made out of steerhide. Neck label is black with Style Quality Perfecto Genuine Steerhide All Hand Cut in creme, small long white size tag with black letters directly below neck label. Schott Bros. Inc. printed on leather neck hanger, stitching on collar and lapels is placed at the same distance from edge. Passants have one seam and a pointy end, side pockets are at an approx. 55° angle and breast pocket at a 65° angle, neck label is black with bull and cactus, Perfecto genuine steerhide - handcut Schott Bros. Small white size tag with red letters directly below neck label, neck label is square, black with Schott in white curly letters above orange and yellow coat of arms. Size tag still on edge, white with red numbers
36.
Leather jacket
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A leather jacket is a jacket-length coat that is usually worn on top of other apparel or item of clothing, and made from the tanned hide of various animals. The leather material is typically dyed black, or various shades of brown, most modern leather jackets are produced in Pakistan, India, Canada, Mexico and the United States, using hides left over from the meat industry. In the early 1900s, brown leather jackets were worn by aviators and members of the military. During the Second World War, they known as bomber jackets and were heavily insulated and prized for their warmth. Leather jackets were commonly worn by Russian Bolsheviks and were nearly a uniform for the Commissars during the Russian Civil War. This practice is said to have been initiated by Yakov Sverdlov, antelope, buckskin, lambskin, sheepskin and cowhide are the hides most commonly used to make leather jackets. As soon as the skin is removed from the animal at the processing plant, it is refrigerated, salted. It is then sent to the tannery where the skins undergo a series of processes designed to preserve, sewing materials such as thread, lining, seam tape, buttons, snaps and zippers are generally bought from outside vendors and stored in the garment factory. In the later-half of the 20th century, the leather jacket—in many forms—achieved iconic status and general acceptance through an inextricable link to Hollywood. Such jackets were popularized by numerous stars in the 1940s and 1950s, including actor Jimmy Stewart in the film Night Passage, who had actually commanded a U. S. bomber squadron during World War II. The brown leather jacket has become a de rigueur part of wardrobe for the Hollywood adventurer, a leather jacket could be used to shape a character, providing an important ingredient used to define the very essence of cool. As such, these all served to popularize leather jackets in American and British youth from the subculture of the 1950s. Flight jackets, also (occasionally with fleece collars, as seen in the film Top Gun, have remained fashionable for decades. Another example is the leather jackets worn by Brad Pitt in Fight Club, in most popular culture examples, the jackets are worn by people cultivating an intimidating and potentially violent or rebellious image. The tan leather jacket in particular has very popular with the Brit Pop and Indie music image. The Punk culture also rocks the leather jacket with accessories such as chains, studs, cuts, many Metal Heads go with the Judas Priest look. There is a difference between leather jackets made for fashion purposes and those worn for protection, such as motorcycle personal protective equipment. A leather jacket primarily designed for fashion purposes would not be much protection in an accident because of the jackets flimsy construction
37.
Space Race
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The Space Race was a 20th-century competition between two Cold War rivals, the Soviet Union and the United States, for supremacy in spaceflight capability. The technological superiority required for such supremacy was seen as necessary for national security, the Space Race spawned pioneering efforts to launch artificial satellites, unmanned space probes of the Moon, Venus, and Mars, and human spaceflight in low Earth orbit and to the Moon. The Soviet Union beat the US to this, with the October 4,1957 orbiting of Sputnik 1, the race peaked with the July 20,1969 US landing of the first humans on the Moon with Apollo 11. The USSR tried but failed manned lunar missions, and eventually cancelled them, the Space Race has left a legacy of Earth communications and weather satellites, and continuing human space presence on the International Space Station. It has also sparked increases in spending on education and research and development, the origins of the Space Race can be traced to Germany, beginning in the 1930s and continuing during World War II when Nazi Germany researched and built operational ballistic missiles. Wernher von Braun, a young engineering prodigy, was recruited by Becker and Dornberger to join their secret army program at Kummersdorf-West in 1932, von Braun dreamed of conquering outer space with rockets, and did not initially see the military value in missile technology. They led the team built the Aggregate-4 rocket, which became the first vehicle to reach outer space during its test flight program in 1942 and 1943. By 1943, Germany began mass-producing the A-4 as the Vergeltungswaffe 2 and its supersonic speed meant there was no defense against it, and radar detection provided little warning. Germany used the weapon to bombard southern England and parts of Allied-liberated western Europe from 1944 until 1945, after the war, the V-2 became the basis of early American and Soviet rocket designs. The United States also acquired a number of complete V2 rockets. The German rocket center in Peenemünde was located in the part of Germany. On Stalins orders, the Soviet Union sent its best rocket engineers to this region to see what they could salvage for future weapons systems, the Soviet rocket engineers were led by Sergei Korolev. He had been involved in clubs and early Soviet rocket design in the 1930s. After the war, he became the USSRs chief rocket and spacecraft engineer and his identity was kept a state secret throughout the Cold War, and he was identified publicly only as the Chief Designer. In the West, his name was officially revealed when he died in 1966. They were not allowed to participate in final Soviet missile design, with their help, particularly Helmut Gröttrups group, Korolev reverse-engineered the A-4 and built his own version of the rocket, the R-1, in 1948. Later, he developed his own designs, though many of these designs were influenced by the Gröttrup Groups G4-R10 design from 1949. The Germans were eventually repatriated in 1951–53 and he also started developing liquid-fueled rockets in 1921, yet he had not been taken seriously by the public
38.
Cold War
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The Cold War was a state of geopolitical tension after World War II between powers in the Eastern Bloc and powers in the Western Bloc. Historians do not fully agree on the dates, but a common timeframe is the period between 1947, the year the Truman Doctrine was announced, and 1991, the year the Soviet Union collapsed. The term cold is used there was no large-scale fighting directly between the two sides, although there were major regional wars, known as proxy wars, supported by the two sides. The Cold War split the temporary alliance against Nazi Germany, leaving the Soviet Union. The USSR was a Marxist–Leninist state ruled by its Communist Party and secret police, the Party controlled the press, the military, the economy and all organizations. In opposition stood the West, dominantly democratic and capitalist with a free press, a small neutral bloc arose with the Non-Aligned Movement, it sought good relations with both sides. The two superpowers never engaged directly in full-scale armed combat, but they were armed in preparation for a possible all-out nuclear world war. The first phase of the Cold War began in the first two years after the end of the Second World War in 1945, the Berlin Blockade was the first major crisis of the Cold War. With the victory of the communist side in the Chinese Civil War and the outbreak of the Korean War, the USSR and USA competed for influence in Latin America, and the decolonizing states of Africa and Asia. Meanwhile, the Hungarian Revolution of 1956 was stopped by the Soviets, the expansion and escalation sparked more crises, such as the Suez Crisis, the Berlin Crisis of 1961, and the Cuban Missile Crisis of 1962. The USSR crushed the 1968 Prague Spring liberalization program in Czechoslovakia, détente collapsed at the end of the decade with the beginning of the Soviet–Afghan War in 1979. The early 1980s were another period of elevated tension, with the Soviet downing of Korean Air Lines Flight 007, the United States increased diplomatic, military, and economic pressures on the Soviet Union, at a time when the communist state was already suffering from economic stagnation. In the mid-1980s, the new Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev introduced the reforms of perestroika and glasnost. Pressures for national independence grew stronger in Eastern Europe, especially Poland, Gorbachev meanwhile refused to use Soviet troops to bolster the faltering Warsaw Pact regimes as had occurred in the past. The result in 1989 was a wave of revolutions that peacefully overthrew all of the communist regimes of Central, the Communist Party of the Soviet Union itself lost control and was banned following an abortive coup attempt in August 1991. This in turn led to the dissolution of the USSR in December 1991. The United States remained as the only superpower. The Cold War and its events have left a significant legacy and it is often referred to in popular culture, especially in media featuring themes of espionage and the threat of nuclear warfare
39.
Science fiction
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Science fiction often explores the potential consequences of scientific and other innovations, and has been called a literature of ideas. Science fiction is difficult to define, as it includes a range of subgenres and themes. Author and editor Damon Knight summed up the difficulty, saying science fiction is what we point to when we say it, a definition echoed by author Mark C. Glassy, who argues that the definition of science fiction is like the definition of pornography, you do not know what it is, in 1970 or 1971William Atheling Jr. According to science fiction writer Robert A, rod Serlings definition is fantasy is the impossible made probable. Science fiction is the improbable made possible, Science fiction is largely based on writing rationally about alternative possible worlds or futures. Science fiction elements include, A time setting in the future, in alternative timelines, a spatial setting or scenes in outer space, on other worlds, or on subterranean earth. Characters that include aliens, mutants, androids, or humanoid robots, futuristic or plausible technology such as ray guns, teleportation machines, and humanoid computers. Scientific principles that are new or that contradict accepted physical laws, for time travel, wormholes. New and different political or social systems, e. g. utopian, dystopian, post-scarcity, paranormal abilities such as mind control, telepathy, telekinesis Other universes or dimensions and travel between them. A product of the budding Age of Reason and the development of science itself. Isaac Asimov and Carl Sagan considered Keplers work the first science fiction story and it depicts a journey to the Moon and how the Earths motion is seen from there. Later, Edgar Allan Poe wrote a story about a flight to the moon, more examples appeared throughout the 19th century. Wells The War of the Worlds describes an invasion of late Victorian England by Martians using tripod fighting machines equipped with advanced weaponry and it is a seminal depiction of an alien invasion of Earth. In the late 19th century, the scientific romance was used in Britain to describe much of this fiction. This produced additional offshoots, such as the 1884 novella Flatland, the term would continue to be used into the early 20th century for writers such as Olaf Stapledon. In the early 20th century, pulp magazines helped develop a new generation of mainly American SF writers, influenced by Hugo Gernsback, the founder of Amazing Stories magazine. In 1912 Edgar Rice Burroughs published A Princess of Mars, the first of his series of Barsoom novels, situated on Mars
40.
Paperback
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A paperback is a type of book characterized by a thick paper or paperboard cover, and often held together with glue rather than stitches or staples. In contrast, hardcover or hardback books are bound with cardboard covered with cloth, inexpensive books bound in paper have existed since at least the 19th century in such forms as pamphlets, yellowbacks, dime novels, and airport novels. Modern paperbacks can be differentiated by size, in the US there are mass-market paperbacks and larger, more durable trade paperbacks. In the UK, there are A-format, B-format, and the largest C-format sizes, Paperback editions of books are issued when a publisher decides to release a book in a low-cost format. Cheaper, lower quality paper, glued bindings, and the lack of a cover may contribute to the lower cost of paperbacks. Paperbacks can be the medium when a book is not expected to be a major seller or where the publisher wishes to release a book without putting forth a large investment. Examples include many novels, and newer editions or reprintings of older books, first editions of many modern books, especially genre fiction, are issued in paperback. Best-selling books, on the hand, may maintain sales in hardcover for an extended period in order to reap the greater profits that the hardcovers provide. These paper bound volumes were offered for sale at a fraction of the historic cost of a book, the Routledges Railway Library series of paperbacks remained in print until 1898, and offered the traveling public 1,277 unique titles. The German-language market also supported examples of cheap books, Bernhard Tauchnitz started the Collection of British. These inexpensive, paperbound editions, a precursor to mass-market paperbacks. Reclam published Shakespeare in this format from October 1857 and went on to pioneer the mass-market paper-bound Universal-Bibliothek series from 10 November 1867, the German publisher Albatross Books revised the 20th-century mass-market paperback format in 1931, but the approach of World War II cut the experiment short. The first released book on Penguins 1935 list was André Maurois Ariel, Lane intended to produce inexpensive books. He purchased paperback rights from publishers, ordered large print runs to keep prices low. Booksellers were initially reluctant to buy his books, but when Woolworths placed a large order, after that initial success, booksellers showed more willingness to stock paperbacks, and the name Penguin became closely associated with the word paperback. In 1939, Robert de Graaf issued a similar line in the United States, the term pocket book became synonymous with paperback in English-speaking North America. In French, the term livre de poche was used and is still in use today, de Graaf, like Lane, negotiated paperback rights from other publishers, and produced many runs. His practices contrasted with those of Lane by his adoption of illustrated covers aimed at the North American market, in order to reach an even broader market than Lane, he used distribution networks of newspapers and magazines, which had a lengthy history of being aimed at mass audiences
41.
Star Trek
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Star Trek is an American science fiction media franchise based on the television series created by Gene Roddenberry. The first television series, simply called Star Trek and now referred to as The Original Series, debuted in 1966 and it followed the interstellar adventures of Captain James T. Kirk and his crew aboard the starship USS Enterprise, an exploration vessel. The Star Trek canon of the franchise include The Original Series, a series, four spin-off television series, its film franchise. In creating Star Trek, Roddenberry was inspired by the Horatio Hornblower novels, the satirical book Gullivers Travels and these adventures continued in the short-lived Star Trek, The Animated Series and six feature films. The adventures of The Next Generation crew continued in four feature films. In 2009, the franchise underwent a reboot set in an alternate timeline, or Kelvin Timeline. This film featured a new cast portraying younger versions of the crew from the show, their adventures were continued in the sequel film. The thirteenth film feature and sequel, Star Trek Beyond, was released to coincide with the franchises 50th anniversary, a new Star Trek TV series, titled Star Trek, Discovery, will premiere in May 2017 on the digital platform CBS All Access. Star Trek has been a phenomenon for decades. Fans of the franchise are called Trekkies or Trekkers, the franchise spans a wide range of spin-offs including games, figurines, novels, toys, and comics. Star Trek had an attraction in Las Vegas that opened in 1998. At least two museum exhibits of props travel the world, the series has its own full-fledged constructed language, Klingon. Several parodies have been made of Star Trek, in addition, viewers have produced several fan productions. As of July 2016, the franchise had generated $10 billion in revenue, Star Trek is noted for its cultural influence beyond works of science fiction. The franchise is also noted for its civil rights stances. The Original Series included one of televisions first multiracial casts, Star Trek references can be found throughout popular culture from movies such as the submarine thriller Crimson Tide to the animated series South Park. As early as 1964, Gene Roddenberry drafted a proposal for the series that would become Star Trek
42.
Dan Dare
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Dan Dare is a British science fiction comic hero, created by illustrator Frank Hampson who also wrote the first stories. Dare appeared in the Eagle comic story Dan Dare, Pilot of the Future from 1950 to 1967, the stories were set in the late 1990s, but the dialogue and manner of the characters is reminiscent of British war films of the 1950s. Dan Dare has been described as Biggles in Space and as the British equivalent of Buck Rogers, Dan Dare returned in new strips in 2000 AD in 1977 until 1979 and in the relaunched Eagle in 1982 until 1994. The most recent mainstream story was a Dan Dare mini-series published by Virgin Comics in 2007 and 2008 and it was written by Garth Ennis and illustrated by Gary Erskine and is a completely new and somewhat darker interpretation of Dan Dare. Since October 2003, however, Dares adventures have continued in Spaceship Away. Published three times a year, its statement is to continue the original Dares adventures where the original Eagle left off. Despite a fairly small circulation, Spaceship Away continues to appear, Dan Dare appeared on the cover of the first issue of the weekly comic strip magazine, Eagle, on 14 April 1950. There were two large colour pages of his story per issue, the artwork was of a high quality, the product of artists in a studio called the Old Bakehouse in Churchtown, Southport, Lancashire. The Eagles founder, the Rev John Marcus Harston Morris, was vicar of the Southport church of St James at the time and it had scale models of spaceships, and models in costume as reference for the artists. Occasionally, Eagle incorporated centrefolds of the spaceships, such as Dans ship the Anastasia. The storylines were long and complex, sometimes lasting more than a year, later, artwork was produced at a studio in Hampsons house in Epsom, Surrey, where his production line techniques were continued. Attention was paid to scientific plausibility, the young writer Arthur C. Clarke acting as science. The first story begins with Dan Dare as pilot of the first successful flight to Venus, Hampsons working habits twice caused him to suffer serious breakdowns in health, leaving his assistants to continue the series. Hampson returned to start the story, Operation Saturn. Hampson returned full-time in 1955, starting The Man from Nowhere trilogy, the quality of the strip and its popularity remained high throughout the 1950s. In the late fifties Eagles new owners objected to the cost of the studio, the conflict caused Hampson to leave the strip in 1959, in the middle of a long plot that saw Dan searching an alien planet for his long-lost father. Dan Dare was surrounded by a varying cast, initially, Dan Dare was chief pilot of the Interplanet Space Fleet and he was born in Manchester, England, in 1967 and educated at Rossall School. Although not a super-hero, he pulled off exceptional piloting
43.
Lost In Space
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Lost in Space is an American science fiction television series created and produced by Irwin Allen. The series follows the adventures of a family of space colonists who struggle to survive in a strange and often hostile universe after their ship is sabotaged. The show ran for three seasons, with 83 episodes airing between 1965 and 1968, the first season was filmed in black and white, with the second and third seasons filmed in color. Although the original concept centered on the Robinson family, many later storylines focused primarily on Dr. Zachary Smith, Smith and the Robot were both absent from the unaired pilot, as the addition of their characters was only decided upon once the series had been commissioned for production. Smith is thus the key to the story, in 1962 the first appearance of a space-faring Robinson family occurred in a comic book published by Gold Key Comics. The Space Family Robinson, who were scientists aboard Earths Space Station One, are away in a cosmic storm in the comics second issue. These Robinsons were scientist father Craig, scientist mother June, early teens Tim and Tam, along with pets Clancy, Space Station One also boasted two spacemobiles for ship-to-planet travel. The Jupiter 2 mission is sabotaged by Dr. Zachary Smith – an agent for an foreign government – who slips aboard the spaceship and reprograms the robot to destroy the ship and crew. However, when he is trapped aboard, his excess weight alters the crafts flight path, Smith manages to save himself by prematurely reviving the crew from suspended animation. The ship survives, but consequent damage caused by Smiths earlier sabotage of the robot leaves them lost in space. In the third episode the Jupiter 2 crashlands on a world, later identified by Will as Priplanus. Smith was liked by the trusting Will, and tolerated by the women, One of these colorful visitors even turned out to be Smiths own cousin, intent on swindling him out of a family inheritance with the assistance of a hostile gambling machine. A new theme tune was recorded by Warren Barker for the second season, in the third season, a major format change was introduced, to bring the series back to its roots as solid adventure, by allowing the Robinsons to travel to more planets. The Jupiter 2 was now allowed to freely travel space, visiting a new world each week, as the family attempt to return to Earth or to reach their original destination in the Alpha Centauri system. This season had a different opening credits sequence and a new theme tune – which. The stories had little realism, with, for instance, explosions happening randomly, merely to cover an aliens arrival or departure, or sometimes merely the arrival of some alien artifact. Props and monsters were regularly recycled from other Irwin Allen shows, as a matter of convenience. A sea monster outfit which had featured on Voyage would get a paint job for its Lost in Space appearance
44.
Polyester
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Polyester is a category of polymers that contain the ester functional group in their main chain. As a specific material, it most commonly refers to a type called polyethylene terephthalate, polyesters include naturally occurring chemicals, such as in the cutin of plant cuticles, as well as synthetics through step-growth polymerization such as polybutyrate. Natural polyesters and a few synthetic ones are biodegradable, but most synthetic polyesters are not and this material is used very widely in clothing. Depending on the structure, polyester can be a thermoplastic or thermoset. There are also polyester resins cured by hardeners, however, the most common polyesters are thermoplastics, industrial polyester fibers, yarns and ropes are used in car tire reinforcements, fabrics for conveyor belts, safety belts, coated fabrics and plastic reinforcements with high-energy absorption. Polyester fiber is used as cushioning and insulating material in pillows, comforters, Polyester fabrics are highly stain-resistant— in fact, the only class of dyes which can be used to alter the color of polyester fabric are what are known as disperse dyes. Polyester fibers are spun together with natural fibers to produce a cloth with blended properties. Cotton-polyester blends can be strong, wrinkle and tear-resistant, and reduce shrinking, synthetic fibers in polyester also create materials with water, wind and environmental resistance compared to plant-derived fibers. Disadvantages of cotton and polyester blends include being less breathable than cotton and they are also less fire resistant and can melt when ignited. Polyester blends have been renamed so as to suggest their similarity or even superiority to natural fibers. Polyesters are also used to make bottles, films, tarpaulin, canoes, liquid crystal displays, holograms, filters, dielectric film for capacitors, film insulation for wire, polyesters are widely used as a finish on high-quality wood products such as guitars, pianos and vehicle/yacht interiors. Thixotropic properties of spray-applicable polyesters make them ideal for use on open-grain timbers, as they can quickly fill wood grain, cured polyesters can be sanded and polished to a high-gloss, durable finish. Liquid crystalline polyesters are among the first industrially used liquid crystal polymers and they are used for their mechanical properties and heat-resistance. These traits are important in their application as an abradable seal in jet engines. Polyesters as thermoplastics may change shape after the application of heat, while combustible at high temperatures, polyesters tend to shrink away from flames and self-extinguish upon ignition. Polyester fibers have high tenacity and E-modulus as well as low water absorption and they are used in the liquid state as casting materials, in sheet molding compounds, as fiberglass laminating resins and in non-metallic auto-body fillers. They are also used as the polymer matrix in pre-pregs. Fiberglass-reinforced unsaturated polyesters find wide application in bodies of yachts and as parts of cars
45.
Paco Rabanne
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Francisco Paco Rabaneda Cuervo, is a French fashion designer of Spanish origin who became known as lenfant terrible of the 1960s French fashion world. Rabanne was born 18 February 1934 in the Basque town of Pasajes and his father, a Republican Colonel, was executed by Francoist troops during the Spanish Civil War. He fled Spain for France with his mother after the Francoists won the war and his education was originally in architecture. He started his career in fashion by creating jewelry for Givenchy, Dior and he used unconventional material such as metal, paper, and plastic for his Metal Couture and outlandish and flamboyant designs. Rabanne is known for his designs for such films as the 1968 science-fiction film Barbarella. Françoise Hardy was a big fan of Rabannes designs, the popular French singer Mylène Farmer continues to bring the extravagance of Paco Rabanne to her live concerts. In 1968, he began collaborating with fragrance company Puig, which resulted in the company marketing Rabannes perfumes, in 1976, the company built a perfume factory in Chartres, France. The court reasoned that because the Puigs local distributor was smuggling perfume into Brazil and it took six or seven years to recover his brand name in Brazil. In 2005, Rabanne opened in Moscow, Russia, the first exhibition of his drawings and his reasoning for showing the drawings then was, I am 72 years old and I wanted to present my drawings this year before disappearing from this planet. I have not shown them to anyone except Salvador Dalí30 years ago who told me to keep going, Rabanne wanted the money that the drawing sold for to go to the women of Beslan. In 2006, Rabanne visited Kiev, Ukraine and he summed up the changes since the Orange Revolution, Ukraine reminds me of a flower unfolding its petals before my very eyes
46.
Pierre Cardin
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Pierre Cardin is an Italian-born French fashion designer. In San Biagio di Callalta near Treviso, Cardin is known for his avant-garde style and his Space Age designs. He prefers geometric shapes and motifs, often ignoring the female form and he advanced into unisex fashions, sometimes experimental, and not always practical. He founded his fashion house in 1950 and introduced the dress in 1954. Pierre Cardin was also designated UNESCO Goodwill Ambassador in 1991, on 16 October 2009, Pierre Cardin was nominated Goodwill Ambassador of the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations. Cardin was educated in central France, beginning his career early, Cardin, aged 14, worked as a clothier’s apprentice, learning the basics of fashion design and construction. In 1939, he left home to work for a tailor in Vichy, during World War II, he worked in the Red Cross, launching humanitarian interests that continue to this day. Cardin moved to Paris in 1945, there, he studied architecture and worked with the fashion house of Paquin after World War II. He worked with Elsa Schiaparelli until he became head of Christian Diors tailleure atelier in 1947, Cardin founded his own house in 1950. He began with haute couture in 1953, Cardin was the first couturier to turn to Japan as a high fashion market when he travelled there in 1959. In 1959, he was expelled from the Chambre Syndicale for launching a collection for the Printemps department store as the first couturier in Paris. During the 1960s, Cardin began a practice that is now commonplace by creating the system of licences that he was to apply to fashion, a clothing collection launched around this period surprised all by displaying the designer’s logo on the garments for the first time. The Espace Cardin is also used to new artistic talents, like theater ensembles, musicians. He was also contacted by Pakistan International Airlines to design uniforms for the flag carrier, the uniforms were introduced in 1966 to 1971 and became an instant hit. It was also tapered to the body, in contrast with the traditional loose-fitting design, it also had a collar with sharp. A straight-cut design was favored by President Ferdinand Marcos, Cardin was a member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture et du Prêt-à-Porter from 1953 to 1993. Like many other designers today, Cardin decided in 1994 to show his collection only to a circle of selected clients and journalists. After a break of 15 years, he showed a new collection to a group of 150 journalists at his home in Cannes
47.
Science fiction film
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Science fiction films have often been used to focus on political or social issues, and to explore philosophical issues like the human condition. The genre has existed since the years of silent cinema. The next major example in the genre was the film Metropolis - being the first feature length science fiction movie, from the 1930s to the 1950s, the genre consisted mainly of low-budget B movies. After Stanley Kubricks landmark 2001, A Space Odyssey, the fiction film genre was taken more seriously. This definition suggests a continuum between empiricism and transcendentalism, with science fiction film on the side of empiricism, and horror film, however, there are numerous well-known examples of science fiction horror films, epitomized by such pictures as Frankenstein and Alien. The visual style of fiction film can be characterized by a clash between alien and familiar images. This clash is implemented when alien images become familiar, as in A Clockwork Orange, as well, familiar images become alien, as in the films Repo Man and Liquid Sky. For example, in Dr. Strangelove, the, distortion of the make the familiar images seem more alien. Finally, alien and familiar images are juxtaposed, as in The Deadly Mantis, Science fiction films appeared early in the silent film era, typically as short films shot in black and white, sometimes with colour tinting. They usually had a theme and were often intended to be humorous. In 1902, Georges Méliès released Le Voyage dans la Lune, generally considered the first science fiction film, several early films merged the science fiction and horror genres. Examples of this are Frankenstein, a adaptation of Mary Shelleys novel. Taking a more adventurous tack,20,000 Leagues Under the Sea is a based on Jules Verne’s famous novel of a wondrous submarine. In the 1920s, European filmmakers tended to use science fiction for prediction and social commentary, as can be seen in German films such as Metropolis and Frau im Mond. In the 1930s, there were big budget science fiction films, notably Just Imagine, King Kong, Things to Come. Starting in 1936, a number of science fiction comic strips were adapted as serials, notably Flash Gordon and Buck Rogers and these serials, and the comic strips they were based on, were very popular with the general public. Other notable science fiction films of the 1930s include Frankenstein, Bride of Frankenstein, Doctor X, Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, F. P. The 1940s brought us Before I Hang, Black Friday, Dr. Cyclops, The Devil Commands, Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, Man Made Monster, It Happened Tomorrow, It Happens Every Spring and The Perfect Woman
48.
Flight to Mars (film)
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The Martians are suspicious of the Earthmens motives. A majority of their governing body finally decides to keep their visitors prisoner, never allowing them to home with the information they have discovered. But the Earthmen have sympathizers among the Martians, soon a plan is set in motion to smuggle the scientists and their Martian allies aboard the guarded spaceship and make an escape for Earth. The first expedition to Mars, led by physicist Dr. Lane, includes Professor Jackson, engineer Jim Barker, journalist Steve Abbott is also aboard to cover the historic mission. A final interview with his crew mates before launch makes him realize there are grave risks for them all. They lose contact with Earth when a meteor storm disables both their landing gear and radio, the crew is forced to decide whether to crash-land on Mars or turn back for Earth. Professor Jackson makes the case that the purpose of their expedition is to collect data, data which they can back to Earth using self-propelled space cylinders equipped with homing devices. They decide to proceed with the mission, knowing they can never return, after they safely crash-land, the crew are met by five Martians at one of their above ground structures. Their own efforts, however, to transmit messages to Earth have only resulted in faint signals being transmitted, the Earth crew are brought by the Martians to a vast underground city, which is being sustained by life-support systems fueled by a mineral called Corium. There the crew meet Tillamar, a past president and now a trusted council advisor, Terris, a young female Martian shows them to their room and serves the group automated meals. The expedition members are amazed at the level of Martian technology around them. Discreetly, Ikron reveals that their Corium supply is nearly depleted and he recommends that the Earthmens spaceship be reproduced, once repaired, creating a fleet that can evacuate the Martians to Earth. The council votes to adopt Ikrons plan, while deciding to hold the Earthmen captive during the repair process. Alita, a leading Martian scientist, is placed in charge of the spaceship, ikorn keeps himself informed of the progress by using Terris as a spy. Jim begins to suspect the Martians motives and fakes an explosion aboard, when Jim later announces their blast-off for Earth is set for the next day, he surprises everyone with the news that Tillamar and Alita will be joining them. Terris reports their suspicious behavior, leading to Alita and Tillimar being held, after a brief confrontation with Martian guards at the spaceships gangway, the three make it aboard safely, and the expedition is able to safely blast-off for Earth. Flight to Mars has some similarities to the Russian silent film Aelita. The films on location principal photography took place in Death Valley, even that earlier films spaceflight sound effects are reused, as are the concepts of space flight outlined in RX-Ms screenplay
49.
Forbidden Planet
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Forbidden Planet is a 1956 American science fiction film from MGM, produced by Nicholas Nayfack, directed by Fred M. Wilcox and starring Walter Pidgeon, Anne Francis and Leslie Nielsen. Shot in Eastmancolor and CinemaScope, it is considered one of the science fiction films of the 1950s. The characters and isolated setting have been compared to those in William Shakespeares The Tempest and its plot contains certain story analogues to the play. Forbidden Planet is noted for pioneering several aspects of fiction cinema. It was the first science fiction film to depict humans traveling in a starship of their own creation. It was also the first to be set entirely on another planet in interstellar space, outside of science fiction, the film was groundbreaking as the first of any genre to use an entirely electronic musical score, courtesy of Bebe and Louis Barron. Forbidden Planets effects team was nominated for the Academy Award for Best Visual Effects at the 29th Academy Awards, in 2013, the picture was entered into the Library of Congress National Film Registry, being deemed culturally, historically, or aesthetically significant. In the 23rd century, starship C-57D reaches the distant world Altair IV to determine the fate of an Earth expedition sent there 20 years earlier. Dr. Edward Morbius, one of the scientists, unsuccessfully tries to persuade the relief ship not to land. Commander John J. Adams, Lieutenant Jerry Farman, and Lieutenant Doc Ostrow are met by Robby the Robot, who transports them to Morbius residence. Morbius describes how one by one the rest of the expedition was killed by an unknown force that vaporized their starship. Only Morbius, his wife, and their daughter Altaira were somehow immune, Morbius offers to help them prepare for the return journey, but Adams says he must await further instructions from Earth. The next day, Adams finds Farman teaching Altaira how to kiss, furious, he dismisses Farman and berates Altaira for her naivety and she reports the incident to Morbius, who says that she never needs to see Adams again. But Altaira designs a new, more conservative gown to please Adams and that night, an invisible intruder sabotages equipment aboard the starship. Adams and Ostrow confront Morbius the following morning, while waiting for him to exit his study, Adams steps outside to talk to Altaira. Adams apologizes for his behavior and they kiss and they are attacked by a tiger, and Adams disintegrates the animal, which had previously been tame in Altairas presence. Upon Morbius appearance, Adams and Ostrow learn he has been studying the Krell, in a Krell laboratory Morbius shows them a plastic educator, a device capable of measuring and enhancing intellectual capacity. When Morbius first used it, he survived, but his intellect was permanently doubled
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