1.
Inverness cape
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The Inverness cape is a form of weatherproof outercoat. It is notable for being sleeveless, the arms emerging from armholes beneath a cape and it has become associated with the fictional detective Sherlock Holmes. The garment began as the Inverness coat, an outer-coat with sleeves covered by a long cape, by the 1870s, the cape was divided in two, and a small capelet-like wing on each side was sewn into the side seams, not taken across the back. In the 1880s, the sleeves were removed entirely, and the armholes were cut away beneath the cape to form the Inverness cape. The fronts of the coat may be finished in either of two styles, in one, the formal, the topcoat is finished with short lapels. In another style, there are no lapels, a simple fall collar with a tall stand is used, the capes buttoning across. These were also favoured for less formal wear, particularly by coachmen and cab drivers, indeed, this style is usually called a coachmans cape. Unlike most raincoats or other conventional overcoats, the Inverness cape has no sleeves, instead, it has wide-cut armholes in the sides to accommodate the arms. This enables the wearer to access a sporran without unbuttoning and opening up the cape, the opening in the side is covered by a short cape, which can be buttoned up in the front. Arguably the most famous example in fiction, Arthur Conan Doyles famous detective Sherlock Holmes is often associated with the Inverness cape, in the Holmes novels, Holmes is described as wearing an Ulster. Holmess distinctive look, which was complemented with a deerstalker cap. Paget had depicted Holmes as smoking pipes, exclusively. The Inverness cape is a water-repellent garment, the commonly held image of the cape as worn by Holmes is one made of tweed, specifically in a grey houndstooth pattern. However, more modest capes, made of nylon or twill-weave fabrics, Inverness capes are worn by characters in many Western and Spaghetti Western films, such as Lee Van Cleefs character in For a Few Dollars More and Gianni Garko in the Sartana series. In the 1970s, the Third Doctor, in the long-running series Doctor Who, the vampire Barnabas Collins wore an Inverness cape on the cult classic Gothic soap opera Dark Shadows. The 2001 film adaptation of the absurdist play Waiting for Godot has landlord Pozzo wearing an Inverness cape, still worn in the United Kingdom, the Inverness cape is often made of heavy Harris tweed of plaid and checked designs. It is usually worn for country wear, lighter weight black cape-coats are more associated with formal evening attire. Popular Urban Fantasy hero Harry Dresden, of The Dresden Files by Jim Butcher replaced his trademark Duster with an Inverness coat in Cold Days, steampunk fashion has revived the wearing of the Inverness cape to a limited extent
2.
Highland dress
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The term highland dress describes the traditional, regional dress of the Highlands and Isles of Scotland. It is often characterised by tartan patterns in some form, including dress tartans which are modified versions which include white in place of a prominent colour. Specific designs of shirt, jacket, bodice, and headwear may also be worn, along with badges and other devices indicating family. Mens highland dress includes a kilt of his clan tartan, along either a tartan full plaid, fly plaid. Accessories may include a belt, sporran, sgian dubh, tartan socks, garters, kilt pins, ghillie brogues are the traditional, welted rand, thick soled shoes with no tongues and long laces. The laces are wrapped around and tied firmly above the ankles so that the shoes do not get pulled off in the mud. The shoes lack tongues so the wearers feet can dry more quickly in the typically damp Scottish weather, womens highland dress is also based on the clan tartan, either that of her birth clan or, if married, that of her spouses clan if she so chooses. Traditionally, women and girls do not wear kilts but may wear ankle-length tartan skirts, along with a colour-coordinated blouse, a tartan earasaid, sash or tonnag may also be worn, usually pinned with a brooch, sometimes with a clan badge or other family or cultural motif. Womens shoes, also called ghillies, are often the thin, foldable variety with sole and uppers cut from one piece of leather, now used mostly for indoor wear. Like the modern ghillie brogues, they also have no tongue, in 1618, a poet from London, John Taylor described the costume of Scottish aristocrats, lairds, and their followers and servants, dressed for hunting at Braemar. In August and September, all dressed in the same fashion by custom. This included tartan stockings and jerkins, with garters of twisted straw, and they had knotted handkerchiefs at their necks and wore blue caps. Taylor said the tartan was warm stuff of diverse colours, near the end of the seventeenth century, Martin Martin gave a description of traditional womens clothing in the Western Islands, the earasaid with its brooches and buckles. I have seen some of the former of an hundred marks value, it was broad as any ordinary pewter plate, the whole curiously engraven with various animals etc. The plaid being pleated all round, was tied with a belt below the breast, the belt was of leather, and several pieces of silver intermixed with the leather like a chain. The lower end of the belt has a piece of plate about eight inches long and they wore sleeves of scarlet cloth, closed at the end as mens vests, with gold lace round them, having plate buttons with fine stones. According to the English military chaplain Thomas Morer, in 1689 Highland men wore plaids about seven or eight yards long, beneath the plaid they wore a waistcoat or a shirt to the same length as the drape of the plaid. Their stockings were made of the stuff as the plaid
3.
Middle Ages
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In the history of Europe, the Middle Ages or Medieval Period lasted from the 5th to the 15th century. It began with the fall of the Western Roman Empire and merged into the Renaissance, the Middle Ages is the middle period of the three traditional divisions of Western history, classical antiquity, the medieval period, and the modern period. The medieval period is subdivided into the Early, High. Population decline, counterurbanisation, invasion, and movement of peoples, the large-scale movements of the Migration Period, including various Germanic peoples, formed new kingdoms in what remained of the Western Roman Empire. In the seventh century, North Africa and the Middle East—once part of the Byzantine Empire—came under the rule of the Umayyad Caliphate, although there were substantial changes in society and political structures, the break with classical antiquity was not complete. The still-sizeable Byzantine Empire survived in the east and remained a major power, the empires law code, the Corpus Juris Civilis or Code of Justinian, was rediscovered in Northern Italy in 1070 and became widely admired later in the Middle Ages. In the West, most kingdoms incorporated the few extant Roman institutions, monasteries were founded as campaigns to Christianise pagan Europe continued. The Franks, under the Carolingian dynasty, briefly established the Carolingian Empire during the later 8th, the Crusades, first preached in 1095, were military attempts by Western European Christians to regain control of the Holy Land from Muslims. Kings became the heads of centralised nation states, reducing crime and violence, intellectual life was marked by scholasticism, a philosophy that emphasised joining faith to reason, and by the founding of universities. Controversy, heresy, and the Western Schism within the Catholic Church paralleled the conflict, civil strife. Cultural and technological developments transformed European society, concluding the Late Middle Ages, the Middle Ages is one of the three major periods in the most enduring scheme for analysing European history, classical civilisation, or Antiquity, the Middle Ages, and the Modern Period. Medieval writers divided history into periods such as the Six Ages or the Four Empires, when referring to their own times, they spoke of them as being modern. In the 1330s, the humanist and poet Petrarch referred to pre-Christian times as antiqua, leonardo Bruni was the first historian to use tripartite periodisation in his History of the Florentine People. Bruni and later argued that Italy had recovered since Petrarchs time. The Middle Ages first appears in Latin in 1469 as media tempestas or middle season, in early usage, there were many variants, including medium aevum, or middle age, first recorded in 1604, and media saecula, or middle ages, first recorded in 1625. The alternative term medieval derives from medium aevum, tripartite periodisation became standard after the German 17th-century historian Christoph Cellarius divided history into three periods, Ancient, Medieval, and Modern. The most commonly given starting point for the Middle Ages is 476, for Europe as a whole,1500 is often considered to be the end of the Middle Ages, but there is no universally agreed upon end date. English historians often use the Battle of Bosworth Field in 1485 to mark the end of the period
4.
Hood (headgear)
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A hood is a kind of headgear that covers most of the head and neck and sometimes the face. In some cases, hoods are used to prevent the wearer from seeing where they are going, hoods with eye holes can be used to prevent the wearer from being identified, as in the case of Ku Klux Klan members, Islamic terrorists, or criminals such as robbers. The etymology for hood is covering, Old English hod hood, from Proto-Germanic *hodaz, the modern spelling is early 15th century to indicate a long vowel, which is no longer pronounced as such. Meaning removable cover for an automobile engine attested by 1905, little Red Riding Hood translates Charles Perraults Petit Chaperon Rouge. Historically, hoods were either similar to modern hoods, often forming part of a cloak or cape, hoods with short capes, called chaperons in French, were extremely common in medieval Europe, and later evolved into big hats. Soft hoods were worn by men under hats, hoods have also been used as part of uniforms for organizations such as the Ku Klux Klan. A hood to hide or control the wearer often covers the head, with the result that the wearer can see little or nothing, like a blindfold. It may be used on or by a person who has been arrested or kidnapped, or about to suffer judicial execution, the hood may be simply a bag, it may be intended to be, and/or experienced as, humiliating. Today, fashion hoods are generally soft headcoverings which form part of robbing a larger garment and they can be pulled up over the head when needed, or left to hang down the back when not. They may also be detachable to turn a winter overcoat into a summer one, the Inuit peoples of the Arctic were expert clothing manufacturers, and the womens anorak, technically called an amauti, features a large hood used to shelter an infant on its mothers back. In Japan hoods covered with chainmail or armour plates were worn by samurai warriors, scuba divers who dive in cold water often wear neoprene hoods for thermal insulation. They cover the head and neck except the face. A hood is a component of academic dress that is a bright and decorative garment worn over a gown. The shape of hoods of universities and colleges in the UK and in many Commonwealth countries have been derived from those prescribed at the Universities of Oxford and Cambridge. Other English universities use one of these patterns or adapt them, for example, newer universities, such as the University of Kent use a hood with triangular cape but with no cowl, and with a distinctive V shaped segment denoting the faculty. The hoods of the University of Aberdeen have a rounded flat cape, the pattern of hoods in the US largely follow an intercollegiate code. Balaclava Bondage hood Burqini French Hood Gable hood Headscarf Hoodie Sartorial hijab Cucullus, a Latin word meaning hood
5.
Chaperon (headgear)
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Chaperon was a form of hood or, later, highly versatile hat worn in all parts of Western Europe in the Middle Ages. It was especially fashionable in mid-15th century Burgundy, before falling out of fashion in the late 15th century. It is the most commonly worn male headgear in Early Netherlandish painting, the chaperon began before 1200 as a hood with a short cape, put on by pulling over the head, or fastening at the front. The hood could be pulled off the head to hang behind, leaving the short cape round the neck, the edge of the cape was often trimmed, cut or scalloped for decorative effect. There were wool ones, used in weather, and lighter ones for summer. In this form it continued through to the end of the Middle Ages, worn by the classes, often by women as well as men. The hood was loose at the back, and sometimes ended in a tail that came to a point. Chaperon is a diminutive of chape, which derives, like the English cap, cape and cope, from the Late Latin cappa, the tail of the hood, often quite long, was called the tippit or liripipe in English, and liripipe or cornette in French. The cape element was a patte in French and in English cape, later a round bourrelet could form part of the assemblage. Patte, cornette and bourrelet were the terms in the French of the 15th century Burgundian court. In Italian the equivalent terms were foggia, becchetto, and mazzocchio, chaperon was sometimes used in English, and also German, for both the hood and hat forms. But the word never appears in the Paston Letters, where there are references to hats, hoods. In French chaperon was also the term in falconry for the hood placed over a head when held on the hand to stop it wanting to fly away. It is either this or the meaning that later extended figuratively to become chaperon meaning a protective escort. About 1300 the chaperon began to be worn by putting the hole intended for the face over the top of the head instead and this left the cornette tail and the cape or patte, hanging loose from the top of the head. This became fashionable, and chaperons began to be made to be worn in this style, some authorities only use the term chaperon for this type, calling the earlier forms hoods – which was certainly their usual name in English. This is a categorisation for modern discussions only, there is no dispute over whether chaperon was the contemporary term, see the wearing Colley-Weston-ward of the mandilion for an analogous development in a type of coat. Especially in Italy, the cornette was sometimes dispensed with, leaving just an un-flared tubular patte fixed to the all round
6.
Fashion
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Fashion is a popular style or practice, especially in clothing, footwear, accessories, makeup, body, or furniture. Fashion is a distinctive and often constant trend in the style in which a person dresses and it is the prevailing styles in behaviour and the newest creations of textile designers. Although aspects of fashion can be feminine or masculine, some trends are androgynous, early Western travelers, traveling whether to Persia, Turkey, India, or China, would frequently remark on the absence of change in fashion in the respective places. The Japanese Shoguns secretary bragged to a Spanish visitor in 1609 that Japanese clothing had not changed in over a thousand years, however, there is considerable evidence in Ming China of rapidly changing fashions in Chinese clothing. Changes in costume took place at times of economic or social change, as occurred in ancient Rome. In 8th-century Moorish Spain, the musician Ziryab introduced to Córdoba sophisticated clothing-styles based on seasonal and daily fashions from his native Baghdad, modified by his own inspiration. Similar changes in fashion occurred in the 11th century in the Middle East following the arrival of the Turks, who introduced clothing styles from Central Asia, the beginning in Europe of continual and increasingly rapid change in clothing styles can be fairly reliably dated. This created the distinctive Western outline of a tailored top worn over leggings or trousers, the pace of change accelerated considerably in the following century, and women and mens fashion, especially in the dressing and adorning of the hair, became equally complex. Art historians are able to use fashion with confidence and precision to date images, often to within five years. These national styles remained very different until a counter-movement in the 17th to 18th centuries imposed similar styles once again, in the 16th century, national differences were at their most pronounced. Ten 16th century portraits of German or Italian gentlemen may show ten entirely different hats, albrecht Dürer illustrated the differences in his actual contrast of Nuremberg and Venetian fashions at the close of the 15th century. Though textile colors and patterns changed from year to year, the cut of a gentlemans coat, by 1800, all Western Europeans were dressing alike, local variation became first a sign of provincial culture and later a badge of the conservative peasant. The Haute house was the established by government for the fashion houses that met the standards of industry. Since then, the idea of the designer as a celebrity in his or her own right has become increasingly dominant. The impact of unisex expands more broadly to various themes in fashion including androgyny, mass-market retail. Fashion weeks are held in cities, where designers exhibit their new clothing collections to audiences. Modern Westerners have a number of choices available in the selection of their clothes. What a person chooses to wear can reflect his or her personality or interests, when people who have high cultural status start to wear new or different clothes, a fashion trend may start
7.
Roman Catholic
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The Catholic Church, also known as the Roman Catholic Church or the Universal Church, is the largest Christian church, with more than 1.28 billion members worldwide. As one of the oldest religious institutions in the world, it has played a prominent role in the history, headed by the Bishop of Rome, known as the Pope, the churchs doctrines are summarised in the Nicene Creed and the Apostles Creed. Its central administration is located in Vatican City, enclaved within Rome, the Catholic Church is notable within Western Christianity for its sacred tradition and seven sacraments. It teaches that it is the one church founded by Jesus Christ, that its bishops are the successors of Christs apostles. The Catholic Church maintains that the doctrine on faith and morals that it declares as definitive is infallible. The Latin Church, the Eastern Catholic Churches, as well as such as mendicant orders and enclosed monastic orders. Among the sacraments, the one is the Eucharist, celebrated liturgically in the Mass. The church teaches that through consecration by a priest the sacrificial bread and wine become the body, the Catholic Church practises closed communion, with only baptised members in a state of grace ordinarily permitted to receive the Eucharist. The Virgin Mary is venerated in the Catholic Church as Queen of Heaven and is honoured in numerous Marian devotions. The Catholic Church has influenced Western philosophy, science, art and culture, Catholic spiritual teaching includes spreading the Gospel while Catholic social teaching emphasises support for the sick, the poor and the afflicted through the corporal and spiritual works of mercy. The Catholic Church is the largest non-government provider of education and medical services in the world, from the late 20th century, the Catholic Church has been criticised for its doctrines on sexuality, its refusal to ordain women and its handling of sexual abuse cases. Catholic was first used to describe the church in the early 2nd century, the first known use of the phrase the catholic church occurred in the letter from Saint Ignatius of Antioch to the Smyrnaeans, written about 110 AD. In the Catechetical Discourses of Saint Cyril of Jerusalem, the name Catholic Church was used to distinguish it from other groups that call themselves the church. The use of the adjective Roman to describe the Church as governed especially by the Bishop of Rome became more widespread after the Fall of the Western Roman Empire and into the Early Middle Ages. Catholic Church is the name used in the Catechism of the Catholic Church. The Catholic Church follows an episcopal polity, led by bishops who have received the sacrament of Holy Orders who are given formal jurisdictions of governance within the church. Ultimately leading the entire Catholic Church is the Bishop of Rome, commonly called the pope, in parallel to the diocesan structure are a variety of religious institutes that function autonomously, often subject only to the authority of the pope, though sometimes subject to the local bishop. Most religious institutes only have male or female members but some have both, additionally, lay members aid many liturgical functions during worship services
8.
Clergy
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Clergy are some of the main and important formal leaders within certain religions. The roles and functions of clergy vary in different religious traditions but these usually involve presiding over specific rituals, some of the terms used for individual clergy are cleric, clergyman, clergywoman, clergyperson and churchman. In Islam, a leader is often known formally or informally as an imam, mufti. In Jewish tradition, a leader is often a rabbi or hazzan. Cleric comes from the ecclesiastical Latin clericus, for belonging to the priestly class. This is from the Ecclesiastical Greek clericus, meaning appertaining to an inheritance, Clergy is from two Old French words, clergié and clergie, which refer to those with learning and derive from Medieval Latin clericatus, from Late Latin clericus. Clerk, which used to mean one ordained to the ministry, in the Middle Ages, reading and writing were almost exclusively the domain of the priestly class, and this is the reason for the close relationship of these words. Now, the state is tied to reception of the diaconate. Minor Orders are still given in the Eastern Catholic Churches, and it is in this sense that the word entered the Arabic language, most commonly in Lebanon from the French, as kleriki meaning seminarian. This is all in keeping with Eastern Orthodox concepts of clergy, which include those who have not yet received, or do not plan to receive. A priesthood is a body of priests, shamans, or oracles who have religious authority or function. Buddhist clergy are often referred to as the Sangha. This diversity of monastic orders and styles was originally one community founded by Gautama Buddha during the 5th century BC living under a set of rules. The interaction between Buddhism and Tibetan Bon led to a uniquely Tibetan Buddhism, within which various sects, similarly, the interaction between Indian Buddhist monks and Chinese Confucian and Taoist monks from c200-c900AD produced the distinctive Chan Buddhism. In these ways, manual labour was introduced to a practice where monks originally survived on alms, layers of garments were added where originally a single thin robe sufficed and this adaptation of form and roles of Buddhist monastic practice continued after the transmission to Japan. For example, monks took on administrative functions for the Emperor in particular secular communities, again, in response to various historic attempts to suppress Buddhism, the practice of celibacy was relaxed and Japanese monks allowed to marry. This form was then transmitted to Korea, during later Japanese occupation, as these varied styles of Buddhist monasticism are transmitted to Western cultures, still more new forms are being created. This broad difference in approach led to a schism among Buddhist monastics in about the 4th century BCE
9.
Ferraiolo
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The ferraiolo is a type of cape traditionally worn by clergy in the Roman Catholic Church on formal, non-liturgical occasions. It can be worn over the shoulders, or behind them, extends in length to the ankles, is tied in a bow by narrow strips of cloth at the front, and does not have any trim or piping on it. A ferraiolo of watered silk also denotes the wearer is an apostolic nuncio or is attached to the Papal household, the Pope does not wear a ferraiolo. The Premonstratensians also have the privilege of wearing this garment with a white four-cornered biretta of the same material, some white canons even choose to wear white shoes when dressed in this formal attire. The additional items traditionally worn by the clergy, i. e. cincture or sash is also entirely white, the Canon Regular is allowed to wear a surplice for any liturgical circumstance and the rochet for non-liturgical events, but not worn with the ferraiolo. The Premonstratensian Abbots regiminis, as well as Abbots nullius, are permitted to wear the ferraiolo of watered silk and add to their monastic habit the pectoral cross and this same regular prelate or abbot, who also as a Canon Regular, may wear a biretta. The first is the Instruction of the Secretariat of State of 31 March 1969 Ut sive sollicite, on the dress, titles, and coats-of-arms of Cardinals, Bishops, and lesser Prelates. Neither of these documents sets out synthetic schemata of the forms of dress of all secular and religious clergy of the Roman Rite, as with many other items of clerical clothing and vestments, the ferraiolo originated as an item of clothing for Roman citizens, originally being knee-length. Costume of Prelates of the Catholic Church, According to Roman Etiquette
10.
Cope
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The cope is a liturgical vestment, more precisely a long mantle or cloak, open in front and fastened at the breast with a band or clasp. It may be of any liturgical colour, a cope may be worn by any rank of the clergy, and also by lay ministers in certain circumstances. If worn by a bishop, it is accompanied by a mitre. The clasp, which is highly ornamented, is called a morse. In art, angels are shown wearing copes, especially in Early Netherlandish painting. There has been little change in the character of the vestment from the earliest ages. Then as now it was made of a piece of silk or other cloth of semicircular shape, both are similar in form and origin to the Orthodox phelonion. The only noticeable modification which the cope has undergone lies in the disappearance of the hood, the earliest mention of a cappa is by St. Gregory of Tours, and in the Miracula of St. Furseus where it seems to mean a cloak with a hood. Moreover, the word more than once in Alcuins correspondence. But in the case of a cappa or cope, this period of specialization seems to have been delayed until much later and it may be that their use in choir was believed to add to the decorum and solemnity of the Divine Office, especially in the winter season. In 831 one of the Saint-Riquier copes is specially mentioned as being of chestnut colour and this, no doubt, implies use by a dignitary, but it does not prove that it was as yet regarded as a sacred vestment. Still, a cope was even then considered a vestment that might be used by any member of the clergy from the highest to the lowest. In this movement the Netherlands, France, and Germany had taken the lead, the custom spread to the secular canons of such cathedrals as Rouen, and cantors nearly everywhere used copes of silk as their own peculiar adornment in the exercise of their functions. Meanwhile, the old cappa nigra, or cappa choralis, a cape of black material, open or partly open in front. Whereas the copes hood had long become a non-functional decorative item. On the other hand, it is worth a note that the cappa clausa, or close cope, was simply a cope or cape sewn up in front for common outdoor use. The wearing of this, says Bishop, instead of the cappa scissa, under all these different forms the cope has not substantially changed its character or shape. The cope is a vestment for processions worn by all ranks of the clergy when assisting at a liturgical function, at a Pontifical High Mass the cope was worn by the assistant priest, a priest who assists the bishop who is the actual celebrant
11.
Vestment
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Vestments are liturgical garments and articles associated primarily with the Christian religion, especially among the Eastern Orthodox, Catholics, Anglicans, and Lutherans. For other garments worn by clergy, see also clerical clothing, the rubrics for the type of vestments to be worn vary between the various communions and denominations. In some, clergy are directed to wear clerical clothing in public at all, most. This generally consists of a collar, clergy shirt. In the case of members of orders, non-liturgical wear includes a religious habit. This ordinary wear does not constitute liturgical vestment, but simply acts as a means of identifying the wearer as a member of the clergy or a religious order. A distinction is made between the type of vestment worn for Holy Eucharist or Holy Communion and that worn for other services. In other traditions, there is no name for this attire, although it often takes the form of a Geneva gown worn with or without preaching bands. In the more ancient traditions, each vestment—or at least the stole—will have a cross on it, a number of churches also have special vesting prayers which are recited before putting each vestment on, especially the Eucharistic vestments. For the Eucharist, each vestment symbolizes a spiritual dimension of the priesthood, in some measure these vestments harken to the Roman roots of the Western Church. Use of the following vestments varies, some are used by all Western Christians in liturgical traditions. Many are used only in the Roman Catholic and Anglican churches, cassock an item of clerical clothing, a long, close-fitting, ankle-length robe worn by clerics of the Catholic, Eastern Orthodox, Anglican, Lutheran and some Reformed churches. Stole The long, narrow strip of cloth draped around the neck, a vestment of distinction, deacons wear it draped across the left shoulder diagonally across the body to the right hip while priests and bishops wear it draped around the back of the neck. It may be crossed in the front and secured with the cincture, traditionally, this was done by priests when wearing Eucharistic vestments, whereas bishops always wore it uncrossed. Modern usage is for both bishops and priests to wear the stole uncrossed, corresponds to the Orthodox orarion and epitrachelion. Alb The common garment of any ministers at the eucharist, worn over a cassock, most closely corresponds to the Orthodox sticharion. Cassock-alb or cassalb is a modern garment and is a combination of the traditional cassock. It developed as a convenient undergarment worn by clergy and as an alternative to the alb for deacons, a white or off-white cassock-alb has replaced the traditional cassock and alb in some Anglican and Lutheran churches since the 1970s
12.
Military
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The armed forces of a country are its government-sponsored defense, fighting forces, and organizations. They exist to further the foreign and domestic policies of their body and to defend that body. Armed force is the use of armed forces to achieve political objectives, the study of the use of armed forces is called military science. Broadly speaking, this involves considering offense and defense at three levels, strategy, operational art, and tactics, all three levels study the application of the use of force in order to achieve a desired objective. In most countries the basis of the forces is the military. However, armed forces can include other paramilitary structures, the obvious benefit to a country in maintaining armed forces is in providing protection from foreign threats and from internal conflict. In recent decades armed forces personnel have also used as emergency civil support roles in post-disaster situations. On the other hand, they may harm a society by engaging in counter-productive warfare. Expenditure on science and technology to develop weapons and systems sometimes produces side benefits, although some claim that greater benefits could come from targeting the money directly
13.
Police
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A police force is a constituted body of persons empowered by the state to enforce the law, protect property, and limit civil disorder. Their powers include the use of force. Law enforcement, however, constitutes part of policing activity. Policing has included an array of activities in different situations, in some societies, in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, these developed within the context of maintaining the class system and the protection of private property. Many police forces suffer from police corruption to a greater or lesser degree, the police force is usually a public sector service, meaning they are paid through taxes. Alternative names for police force include constabulary, gendarmerie, police department, police service, crime prevention, protective services, law enforcement agency, members may be referred to as police officers, troopers, sheriffs, constables, rangers, peace officers or civic/civil guards. As police are often interacting with individuals, slang terms are numerous, many slang terms for police officers are decades or centuries old with lost etymology. One of the oldest, cop, has largely lost its slang connotations and this is derived from πόλις, city. Law enforcement in ancient China was carried out by prefects for thousands of years since it developed in both the Chu and Jin kingdoms of the Spring and Autumn period, in Jin, dozens of prefects were spread across the state, each having limited authority and employment period. Under each prefect were subprefects who helped collectively with law enforcement in the area, some prefects were responsible for handling investigations, much like modern police detectives. The concept of the system spread to other cultures such as Korea. In ancient Greece, publicly owned slaves were used by magistrates as police, in Athens, a group of 300 Scythian slaves was used to guard public meetings to keep order and for crowd control, and also assisted with dealing with criminals, handling prisoners, and making arrests. Other duties associated with modern policing, such as investigating crimes, were left to the citizens themselves, in the Roman empire, the army, rather than a dedicated police organization, provided security. Local watchmen were hired by cities to some extra security. Magistrates such as fiscal and quaestors investigated crimes. There was no concept of public prosecution, so victims of crime or their families had to organize and their duties included apprehending thieves and robbers and capturing runaway slaves. The vigiles were supported by the Urban Cohorts who acted as a heavy-duty anti-riot force, in medieval Spain, Santa Hermandades, or holy brotherhoods, peacekeeping associations of armed individuals, were a characteristic of municipal life, especially in Castile. These organizations were intended to be temporary, but became a fixture of Spain
14.
Gas mask
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The gas mask is a mask used to protect the user from inhaling airborne pollutants and toxic gases. The mask forms a cover over the nose and mouth. Some gas masks are also respirators, though the gas mask is often used to refer to military equipment. The user of the gas mask is not protected from gas that the skin can absorb, most gas mask filters will last around 24 hours in a nuclear biological chemical situation. Airborne toxic materials may be gaseous or particulates, many gas masks include protection from both types. During demonstrations and protests where tear gas or CS-gas is employed by police, gas masks are commonly used by police. Aside from serving their functional purposes, gas masks are used as emblems in industrial music, with the most notable example. Later, the discovery of polycarbonate allowed for gas masks with a large full-face window, some have one or two filters attached to the face mask while others have a large filter connected to the face mask with a hose, that is sometimes confused with respirators. Absorption is the process of being drawn into a body or substrate and this can be used to remove both particulate and gaseous hazards. Although some form of reaction may take place, it is not necessary, for example, if the target particles are positively charged, a negatively charged substrate may be used. Examples of substrates include activated carbon, and zeolites and this effect can be very simple and highly effective, for example using a damp cloth to cover the mouth and nose while escaping a fire. While this method can be effective at trapping particulates produced by combustion, gas masks have a limited useful lifespan that is related to the absorbent capacity of the filter. Once the filter has been saturated with hazardous chemicals, it ceases to provide protection, World War II gas masks contained blue asbestos in their filters. It is unknown how long for certain the material was used in filters, breathing blue asbestos in the factories resulted in the death of 10% of the workforce due to pleural and peritoneal mesothelioma. This rate was between 2.5 and 3.2 times the incidence of lung or respiratory cancers. Many scare stories have originated from various Russian gas masks and their filters that are now common in surplus stores, in October 2013, an asbestos lab in Salt Lake City found out that the particle filter is made of 7. 5% asbestos. The filter is made so that the asbestos fibres cannot be breathed in, nearly all Russian Cold War period masks contain asbestos. Modern gas masks are quite safe and do not use asbestos, typically, masks using 40 mm connections are a more recent design
15.
Cloak
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Cloaks have been used by myriad historic societies, many climates favor wearing a full-body garment which is easily removed and does not constrain the wearer with sleeves. Over time cloak designs have changed to match fashion and available textiles. Cloaks generally fasten at the neck or over the shoulder, vary in length, from hip all the way down to the ankle, mid-calf being the normal length. They may have a hood, and may cover and fasten down the front. However, cloaks are almost always sleeveless, the word cloak comes from Old North French cloque meaning travelling cloak, from Medieval Latin clocca travelers cape, literally a bell, so called from the garments bell-like shape. Thus the word is related to the word clock, ancient Greeks and Romans were known to wear cloaks. Greek men and women wore the himation, from the Archaic through the Hellenistic periods, Romans would later wear the Greek-styled cloak, the pallium. The pallium was quadrangular, shaped like a square, and sat on the shoulders, Romans of the Republic would wear the toga as a formal display of their citizenship. It was denied to foreigners and was worn by magistrates on all occasions as a badge of office, the toga was claimed to have originated with Numa Pompilius, the second king of Rome. Opera cloaks are made of quality materials such as wool or cashmere, velvet, ladies may wear a long cloak usually called a cape, or a full-length cloak. Gentlemen wear an ankle-length or full-length cloak, formal cloaks often have expensive, colored linings and trimmings such as silk, satin, velvet and fur. For example, they may grant the person wearing it invisibility as in the Harry Potter series by J. K. Rowling, alternatively, they may nullify magical projectiles, as the cloak of magic resistance in NetHack. In addition, the magical hide armor that Hercules made for himself from the skin of the Nemean Lion, at the end of Hercules first labor and this latter was notable because it was said to be impervious to all cutting and impact weapons. Figuratively, a cloak may be anything that disguises or conceals something, in many science fiction worlds such as Star Trek, there are cloaking devices, which provide a way to avoid detection or to make objects appear invisible. Because they keep a person hidden and conceal a weapon, the cloak and dagger has come to refer to espionage and secretive crimes. Cloak and dagger stories are thus mystery, detective, and crime stories of this, the vigilante duo of Marvel comics Cloak and Dagger is a reference to this. ISBN 0-8109-6317-5 Baumgarten, Linda, What Clothes Reveal, The Language of Clothing in Colonial and Federal America, ISBN 0-300-09580-5 Payne, Blanche, History of Costume from the Stone Age to the Twentysecond Century, Harper & Row,2965. No ISBN for this edition, ASIN B0006BMNFS Picken, Mary Brooks, The Fashion Dictionary, Funk and Bagnalls,1957
16.
Evening gown
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An evening gown is a long flowing womens dress or gown usually worn to a formal affair. It ranges from tea and ballerina to full-length, Evening gowns are usually made of luxurious fabrics such as chiffon, velvet, satin, organza, etc. Silk is a fibre for many evening gowns. It corresponds to both mens wear for black tie events and mens formal wear for white tie events. Wool, in various weaves, was the most dominant fabric for dresses, rich fabrics and fibres were usually the domain of the nobility, and clothing was still used as an identifier of social rank and status. The dawn of the Renaissance slowly changed the social rank system. The art of weaving silk was firmly established in the Mediterranean around 1400, dresses for court balls and similar festivities were often made of intricately woven silk and trimmed with expensive furs to highlight the wearers social status. The vibrant court life of the 16th and 17th centuries with its focus on art, literature, elaborate dinners, dances, and theatre productions allowed fashionable ladies to showcase their finery. The Italian Renaissance courts were the pinnacle of style and elegance in Europe, rich silk weaves, such as satin, taffeta and velvet created luxurious gowns. In the 18th century, formal dress started as the mantua, the farthingale so popular during the 16th/17th centuries, evolved into the pannier to give dresses and skirts extra volume and the desired court silhouette. Starting with the late 18th century, the evening or ball gown emerged, as balls and formal dances were no longer the sole domain of royals. The French Revolution had caused social upheaval, and firmly cemented the place of upper-middle, a common silhouette for evening wear, just as for day wear, was the high-waisted Empire or Regency dress. Evening versions featured lower necklines, short sleeves and elaborate fabrics, during the Edwardian era, or Belle Epoque, the s-shaped figure was fashionable, which included a very narrow waist. Immediately preceding and during World War I, lines became looser, later, in the 1920s, the hemlines of evening gowns rose and cuts were very simple to match the new life style of the Flapper era. The 1930s introduced bias cuts and artificial fibres, along with the Empire cut, over the years the sheath, mermaid, A-line, and trumpet shapes became popular. Also, the dropped waist and princess styles were popular, depending on the era, grace Kelly is noted for wearing understated evening gowns. Today, the gown comes in different silhouettes and even lengths. Evening gowns are worn at various semi-formal black-tie functions, including dinners, opera and theatre premieres, formal dances, evening wedding receptions
17.
Lady
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The word lady is a civil term of respect for a woman, specifically the female equivalent to gentleman, and also an English-language formal title. Once used to describe only women of a social class, race, community. However, from a point of view this usage is still controversial. The word comes from Old English hlǣfdige, the first part of the word is a form of hlāf, loaf, bread. The primary meaning of mistress of a household is now obsolete, save for the term landlady. This meaning is retained in the states of the USA. In many European languages the equivalent term serves as a form of address equivalent to the English Mrs. The singular vocative use was common but has become mostly confined to poetry. In this usage, the lady is very seldom capitalized when written. The usual English term for addressing a woman is Madam or Maam. In British English, lady is often, but not always, public toilets are often distinguished by signs showing simply Ladies or Gentlemen. In more recent years, use of the word is more complicated. The American journalist William Allen White noted one of the difficulties in his 1946 autobiography, after the incident, White assured his readers, his papers referred to human females as women, with the exception of police court characters, who were all ladies. Whites anecdote touches on a phenomenon that others have remarked on as well and these social class issues, while no longer as prominent in this century, have imbued the formal use of lady with something of irony. Commenting on the word in 1953, C. S. Lewis wrote that the guard at Holloway said it was a ladies prison. It remains in use, for example, as a counterpart to gentleman, in the ladies and gentlemen. One feminist writer, Robin Lakoff, in her book Language and Womans Place, a sign in the gardens of Hunters Hotel reads Ladies and Gentlemen will not pick the flowers, others must not. Formally, Lady is the counterpart to higher ranks in society, from gentlemen, through knights, to lords
18.
Textile
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A textile or cloth is a flexible material consisting of a network of natural or artificial fibres. Yarn is produced by spinning raw fibres of wool, flax, cotton, hemp, Textiles are formed by weaving, knitting, crocheting, knotting, or felting. The words fabric and cloth are used in textile assembly trades as synonyms for textile, however, there are subtle differences in these terms in specialized usage. Textile refers to any material made of interlacing fibres, a fabric is a material made through weaving, knitting, spreading, crocheting, or bonding that may be used in production of further goods. Cloth may be used synonymously with fabric but is often a piece of fabric used for a specific purpose. The word textile is from Latin, from the adjective textilis, meaning woven, from textus, the word cloth derives from the Old English clað, meaning a cloth, woven or felted material to wrap around one, from Proto-Germanic kalithaz. The discovery of dyed flax fibres in a cave in the Republic of Georgia dated to 34,000 BCE suggests textile-like materials were made even in prehistoric times. The production of textiles is a craft whose speed and scale of production has been altered almost beyond recognition by industrialization, however, for the main types of textiles, plain weave, twill, or satin weave, there is little difference between the ancient and modern methods. Textiles have an assortment of uses, the most common of which are for clothing and for such as bags. In the household they are used in carpeting, upholstered furnishings, window shades, towels, coverings for tables, beds, and other flat surfaces, in the workplace they are used in industrial and scientific processes such as filtering. Textiles are used in traditional crafts such as sewing, quilting. Textiles for industrial purposes, and chosen for other than their appearance, are commonly referred to as technical textiles. Technical textiles include textile structures for applications, medical textiles, geotextiles, agrotextiles. In all these applications stringent performance requirements must be met, woven of threads coated with zinc oxide nanowires, laboratory fabric has been shown capable of self-powering nanosystems using vibrations created by everyday actions like wind or body movements. Fashion designers commonly rely on textile designs to set their fashion collections apart from others, armani, the late Gianni Versace, and Emilio Pucci can be easily recognized by their signature print driven designs. Textiles can be made from many materials and these materials come from four main sources, animal, plant, mineral, and synthetic. In the past, all textiles were made from natural fibres, including plant, animal, in the 20th century, these were supplemented by artificial fibres made from petroleum. Textiles are made in various strengths and degrees of durability, from the finest gossamer to the sturdiest canvas, microfibre refers to fibres made of strands thinner than one denier
19.
Ballgown
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A ball gown or ballgown is the most formal female attire for social occasions. It is traditionally a full-skirted gown reaching the floor, made of luxurious fabric, most versions are cut off the shoulder with decollete necklines. Such gowns are worn with a stole, cape or cloak in lieu of a coat, good jewellery. Standard accessories are dancing shoes and a clutch style evening bag, where state decorations are to be worn, they are on a bow pinned to the chest, and married women wear a tiara if they have one. The ball gown shape has changed little since the mid-19th century, although artificial fabrics are now sometimes used, the most common fabrics are satin, silk, taffeta and velvet with trimmings of lace, pearls, sequins, embroidery, ruffles and ruching. Evening gowns were the formal attire of women during the Regency era and they had the Empire silhouette, with a high waistline, short sleeves, and a fairly narrow skirt. In the Victorian era however, skirts began to widen, evening gowns now had skirts flared out with layers of petticoats. The increasing weight of the led to the development of the crinoline. The crinoline would be worn under day dresses and evening gowns alike in the 1850s and 1860s, however, starting in the 1870s, dresses began to take on a narrow silhouette, and more attention was focused on the back of the skirt. The bustle became popular during this time, at the end of the 19th century, bustles disappeared and skirts took on a simple bell-like appearance. In the Edwardian era, womens day dresses and evening gowns had an S-curve silhouette, during the 1920s, the hems rose and decorations became more showy. This would lead to more conservative dresses during the Great Depression, after the end of World War II, in 1947, Christian Dior introduced his New Look of nipped-in waistlines and full skirts. Luxurious fabrics were used for dresses, and the ball gown was re-introduced. The ball gown often has a strapless bodice, although short, ball gowns remain the most formal female attire to this day, and are worn exclusively to balls. According to rules of etiquette and attire, ladies must wear a gown to events where men are required to wear white tie attire. A watch is not considered appropriate except for jeweled versions in which the face is covered so that it resembles a bracelet, for their debuts, debutantes wear long white dresses that were once similar to ball gowns. They also wear long white gloves that go well above the elbow. Their jewellery is understated and suitable for a lady about to be formally presented to society for the first time
20.
Coat (clothing)
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A coat is a garment worn by both men and women, for warmth or fashion. Coats typically have long sleeves and are open down the front, closing by means of buttons, zippers, hook-and-loop fasteners, toggles, other possible features include collars, shoulder straps and hoods. Persians were the first people who made coats, coat is one of the earliest clothing category words in English, attested as far back as the early Middle Ages. The Oxford English Dictionary traces coat in its meaning to c. 1300, when it was written cote, the word coat stems from Old French and then Latin cottus. It originates from the Proto-Indo-European word for woolen clothes, an early use of coat in English is coat of mail, a tunic-like garment of metal rings, usually knee — or mid-calf length. The medieval and renaissance coat is a midlength, sleeved mens outer garment, fitted to the waist and buttoned up the front, with a skirt in its essentials. In the early 19th century, coats were divided into under-coats and overcoats, the term under-coat is now archaic but denoted the fact that the word coat could be both the outermost layer for outdoor wear or the coat worn under that. However, the coat has begun to denote just the overcoat rather than the under-coat. The older usage of the coat can still be found in the expression to wear a coat and tie. Nor do the terms tailcoat, morning coat or house coat denote types of overcoat, indeed, an overcoat may be worn over the top of a tailcoat. In tailoring circles, the tailor who makes all types of coats is called a coat maker, similarly, in American English, the term sports coat is used to denote a type of jacket not worn as outerwear. The term jacket is a term usually used to refer to a specific type of short under-coat. Typical modern jackets extend only to the thigh in length. The modern jacket worn with a suit is called a lounge coat in British English. The American English term is rarely used, traditionally, the majority of men dressed in a coat and tie, although this has become gradually less widespread since the 1960s. Because the basic pattern for the stroller and dinner jacket are the same as lounge coats, a topcoat is a slightly shorter overcoat, if any distinction is to be made. The length of an overcoat varies, mid-calf being the most frequently found, designs vary from knee-length to the ankle length briefly fashionable in the early 1970s and known as the maxi
21.
Fur
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Fur is used in reference to the hair of non-human mammals, particularly those with extensive body hair coverage that is generally soft and thick, as opposed to the stiffer bristles on most pigs. The term pelage – first known use in English c.1828 – is sometimes used to refer to the hair of an animal as a complete coat. Fur is also used to refer to animal pelts which have been processed into leather with the still attached. The words fur or furry are also used, more casually, to refer to hair-like growths or formations, particularly when the subject being referred to exhibits a dense coat of fine, soft hairs. If layered, rather than grown as a coat, it may consist of short down hairs, long guard hairs. Mammals with reduced amounts of fur are called naked, as with the naked mole-rat, or hairless. An animal with commercially valuable fur is known within the fur industry as a furbearer and its principal function is thermoregulation, it maintains a layer of dry air next to the skin and repels water, thus providing thermal insulation. Guard hair — the top consisting of longer, generally coarser. The distal ends of the guard hairs provide the externally visible layer of the coat of most mammals with well-developed fur and this layer of the coat displays the most marked pigmentation and gloss, including coat patterns adapted to display or camouflage. It is also adapted to shedding water and blocking sunlight, protecting the undercoat and skin from external factors such as rain, many animals, such as domestic cats, erect their guard hairs as part of their threat display when agitated. Mammals with well-developed down and guard hairs also usually have numbers of awn hairs. These begin their growth much as guard hairs do, but change their mode of growth and this portion of the hair is called awn. The rest of the growth is thin and wavy, much like down hair, in many species of mammals, the awn hairs comprise the bulk of the visible coat. Hair is one of the characteristics of mammals, however. These are often called naked or hairless, some mammals naturally have reduced amounts of fur. Some semiaquatic or aquatic mammals such as cetaceans, pinnipeds and hippopotamuses have evolved hairlessness, the naked mole-rat has evolved hairlessness, perhaps as an adaptation to their subterranean life-style. Two of the largest extant mammals, the elephant and the rhinoceros, are largely hairless. The hairless bat is mostly hairless but does have short bristly hairs around its neck, on its front toes, most hairless animals cannot go in the sun for long periods of time, or stay in the cold for too long
22.
Lining (sewing)
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In sewing and tailoring, a lining is an inner layer of fabric, fur, or other material inserted into clothing, hats, luggage, curtains, handbags and similar items. Linings provide a neat inside finish and conceal interfacing, padding, the raw edges of seams, a lining reduces the wearing strain on clothing, extending the useful life of the lined garment. A smooth lining allows a coat or jacket to slip on over other clothing easily, linings are typically made of solid colors to coordinate with the garment fabric, but patterned and contrasting-colored linings are also used. In tailoring, home sewing, and ready-to-wear clothing construction, linings are usually completed as a unit before being fitted into the garment shell, in haute couture, the sleeves and body are usually lined separately before assembly. Some specialized types of lining include the following, This is a layer of fabric between the lining and the outer garment shell. Insulating interlinings for winter garments are usually sewn to the individual lining pieces before the lining is assembled and this type lines only the upper back and front of the garment, concealing the shoulder pads and interfacings, with or without sleeves. This is a warm removable lining for a jacket, coat, or raincoat that is held in place with a zipper, snap fasteners, or buttons. Garments with removable linings are usually lined with a fabric as well. Tailoring, The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket
23.
Velvet
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Velvet is a type of woven tufted fabric in which the cut threads are evenly distributed, with a short dense pile, giving it a distinctive feel. By extension, the word velvety means smooth like velvet, Velvet can be made from either synthetic or natural fibers. Velvet is woven on a loom that weaves two thicknesses of the material at the same time. The two pieces are cut apart to create the pile effect, and the two lengths of fabric are wound on separate take-up rolls. This complicated process meant that velvet was expensive to make before industrial power looms became available, Velvet is difficult to clean because of its pile, but modern dry cleaning methods make cleaning more feasible. Velvet pile is created by warp or vertical yarns and velveteen pile is created by weft or fill yarns, Velvet can be made from several different kinds of fibers, traditionally, the most expensive of which is silk. Much of the velvet sold today as silk velvet is actually a mix of rayon, Velvet made entirely from silk is rare and usually has market prices of several hundred US dollars per yard. Cotton is also used to make velvet, though this results in a less luxurious fabric. Velvet can also be made from such as linen, mohair. A cloth made by the Kuba people of the Democratic Republic of Congo from raffia is often referred to as Kuba velvet. More recently, synthetic velvets have been developed, mostly from polyester, nylon, viscose, acetate, a small percentage of spandex is sometimes added to give the final material a certain amount of stretch. Because of its softness and appearance as well as its high cost of production. Velvet was introduced to Baghdad during the rule of Harun al-Rashid by Kashmiri merchants, in the Mamluk era, Cairo was the worlds largest producer of velvet. Much of it was exported to Venice, Al-Andalus and the Mali Empire, musa I of Mali, the ruler of the Mali Empire, visited Cairo on his pilgrimage to Mecca. Many Arab velvet makers accompanied him back to Timbuktu, later Ibn Battuta mentions how Suleyman, the ruler of Mali, wore a locally produced complete crimson velvet caftan on Eid. During the reign of Mehmed II, assistant cooks wore blue-coloured dresses, conical hats, king Richard II of England directed in his will that his body should be clothed in velveto in 1399. Chiffon velvet, Very lightweight velvet on a silk or rayon chiffon base. Ciselé, Velvet where the pile uses cut and uncut loops to create a pattern, crushed, This type of velvet can be produced by pressing the fabric down in different directions
24.
Silk
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Silk is a natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be woven into textiles. The protein fiber of silk is composed mainly of fibroin and is produced by insect larvae to form cocoons. The best-known silk is obtained from the cocoons of the larvae of the mulberry silkworm Bombyx mori reared in captivity, Silk is produced by several insects, but generally only the silk of moth caterpillars has been used for textile manufacturing. There has been research into other types of silk, which differ at the molecular level. Silk is mainly produced by the larvae of insects undergoing complete metamorphosis, Silk production also occurs in Hymenoptera, silverfish, mayflies, thrips, leafhoppers, beetles, lacewings, fleas, flies, and midges. Other types of arthropod produce silk, most notably various arachnids such as spiders, the word silk comes from Old English sioloc, from Greek σηρικός serikos, silken, ultimately from an Asian source. Several kinds of silk, which are produced by caterpillars other than the mulberry silkworm, have been known and used in China, South Asia. However, the scale of production was far smaller than for cultivated silks. Thus, the way to obtain silk suitable for spinning into textiles in areas where commercial silks are not cultivated was by tedious. Commercial silks originate from reared silkworm pupae, which are bred to produce a silk thread with no mineral on the surface. The pupae are killed by either dipping them in boiling water before the adult moths emerge or by piercing them with a needle. These factors all contribute to the ability of the cocoon to be unravelled as one continuous thread. Wild silks also tend to be difficult to dye than silk from the cultivated silkworm. Genetic modification of domesticated silkworms is used to facilitate the production of more types of silk. Silk fabric was first developed in ancient China, the earliest example of silk fabric is from 3630 BC, and it was used as wrapping for the body of a child from a Yangshao culture site in Qingtaicun at Xingyang, Henan. Legend gives credit for developing silk to a Chinese empress, Leizu, because of its texture and lustre, silk rapidly became a popular luxury fabric in the many areas accessible to Chinese merchants. Silk was in demand, and became a staple of pre-industrial international trade. In July 2007, archaeologists discovered intricately woven and dyed silk textiles in a tomb in Jiangxi province, Silk is described in a chapter on mulberry planting by Si Shengzhi of the Western Han
25.
Satin
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Satin is a weave that typically has a glossy surface and a dull back. The satin weave is characterized by four or more fill or weft yarns floating over a warp yarn or vice versa, four warp yarns floating over a single weft yarn. Floats are missed interfacings, where the yarn lies on top of the weft in a warp-faced satin. These floats explain the even sheen, as unlike in other weaves, the light reflecting is not scattered as much by the fibres, satin is usually a warp-faced weaving technique in which warp yarns are floated over weft yarns, although there are also weft-faced satins. If the yarns used are short-staple yarns such as cotton, the fabric formed is considered a sateen, a satin fabric tends to have a high luster due to the high number of floats on the fabric. Because of this it is used in making bed sheets, many variations can be made of the basic satin weave including a granite weave and a check weave. Satin weaves, twill weaves, and plain weaves are the three types of weaving by which the majority of woven products are formed. Satin is commonly used in apparel, satin baseball jackets, athletic shorts, womens lingerie, nightgowns, blouses, and evening gowns and it is also used in the production of pointe shoes for use in ballet. Other uses include interior furnishing fabrics, upholstery, and bed sheets, originally, during the Middle Ages, satin was made of silk, consequently it was very expensive, used only by the upper classes. Satin became famous in Europe during the twelfth century, the name derives its origin from the Chinese port city of Quanzhou, whose name in Arabic was Zayton. During the latter part of the Middle Ages, it was a shipping port of silk. In a satin weave, the fill yarn passes over multiple warp yarns before interlacing under one warp yarn, common satin weaves are, 4-harness satin weave, also called crowfoot satin, in which the fill yarn passes over three warp yarns and under one warp yarn. It is more pliable than a plain weave, 5-harness satin weave, the fill yarn passes over four warp yarns and then under one yarn. 8-harness satin weave, in which the fill yarn passes over 7 warp yarns and then 1 warp yarn, is the most pliable satin weave, antique satin is a type of satin-back shantung, woven with slubbed or unevenly spun weft yarns. Baronet or baronette has a back and a rayon or silk front. Charmeuse is a lightweight, draping satin-weave fabric with a dull reverse, double face satin is woven with a glossy surface on both sides. It is possible for both sides to have a different pattern, albeit using the same colors, duchess satin is a particularly luxurious, heavy, stiff satin. Farmers satin or Venetian cloth is made from mercerised cotton, gattar is satin made with a silk warp and a cotton weft
26.
Trench coat
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A trench coat or trenchcoat is a raincoat made of waterproof heavy-duty cotton gabardine drill, leather, or poplin. It generally has a removable insulated lining, raglan sleeves, and it was originally an item of clothing for Army officers and shows this influence in its styling. Traditionally this garment is double-breasted with 10 front buttons, has wide lapels, the coat is belted at the waist with a self-belt, as well as having straps around the wrists that also buckle. The coat often has shoulder straps that button-close, those were a feature in a military context. The traditional color of a coat was khaki, although newer versions come in many colors. The trench coat was developed as an alternative to the heavy serge greatcoats worn by British, invention of the trench coat is claimed by two British luxury clothing manufacturers, Burberry and Aquascutum, with Aquascutums claim dating back to the 1850s. Thomas Burberry invented gabardine fabric in 1879 and submitted a design for an Army officers raincoat to the United Kingdom War Office in 1901. The trench coat became an item of dress in the British Army. No other ranks were permitted to wear them, another optional item was the British Warm, a wool coat similar to the greatcoat that was shorter in length, also worn by British officers and Warrant Officers Class I as an optional piece. During the First World War, the design of the coat was modified to include shoulder straps. The shoulder straps were for the attachment of epaulettes or other rank insignia, the ring was originally for attaching map cases and swords or other equipment to the belt. This latter pattern was dubbed trench coat by the soldiers in the front line, many trench coats had large pockets for maps and cleverly placed flaps and vents to deal with the odour associated with earlier rubber coats. A range of coats were designed and sold during wartime that incorporated War Office requirements with traditional aspects of leisurewear. What became known as the ‘trench coat’ combined the features of a waterproof cape. Many veterans returning to civilian life kept the coats that became fashionable for men and women. During the Second World War, officers of the United Kingdom continued to use the coat on the battlefield in inclement weather. These garments were shorter and more practical than the trench coat, a typical trench coat is a ten-buttoned, double-breasted long coat made with tan, black, khaki, or beige fabric. Trench coats often have cuff straps, raglan sleeves, shoulder straps, the trench coat was typically worn as a windbreaker or as a rain jacket, and not for protection from the cold in winter or snowy conditions
27.
United States Army
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The United States Armed Forces are the federal armed forces of the United States. They consist of the Army, Marine Corps, Navy, Air Force, from the time of its inception, the military played a decisive role in the history of the United States. A sense of unity and identity was forged as a result of victory in the First Barbary War. Even so, the Founders were suspicious of a permanent military force and it played an important role in the American Civil War, where leading generals on both sides were picked from members of the United States military. Not until the outbreak of World War II did a standing army become officially established. The National Security Act of 1947, adopted following World War II and during the Cold Wars onset, the U. S. military is one of the largest militaries in terms of number of personnel. It draws its personnel from a pool of paid volunteers. As of 2016, the United States spends about $580.3 billion annually to fund its military forces, put together, the United States constitutes roughly 40 percent of the worlds military expenditures. For the period 2010–14, the Stockholm International Peace Research Institute found that the United States was the worlds largest exporter of major arms, the United States was also the worlds eighth largest importer of major weapons for the same period. The history of the U. S. military dates to 1775 and these forces demobilized in 1784 after the Treaty of Paris ended the War for Independence. All three services trace their origins to the founding of the Continental Army, the Continental Navy, the United States President is the U. S. militarys commander-in-chief. Rising tensions at various times with Britain and France and the ensuing Quasi-War and War of 1812 quickened the development of the U. S. Navy, the reserve branches formed a military strategic reserve during the Cold War, to be called into service in case of war. Time magazines Mark Thompson has suggested that with the War on Terror, Command over the armed forces is established in the United States Constitution. The sole power of command is vested in the President by Article II as Commander-in-Chief, the Constitution also allows for the creation of executive Departments headed principal officers whose opinion the President can require. This allowance in the Constitution formed the basis for creation of the Department of Defense in 1947 by the National Security Act, the Defense Department is headed by the Secretary of Defense, who is a civilian and member of the Cabinet. The Defense Secretary is second in the chain of command, just below the President. Together, the President and the Secretary of Defense comprise the National Command Authority, to coordinate military strategy with political affairs, the President has a National Security Council headed by the National Security Advisor. The collective body has only power to the President
28.
Mess dress
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Mess dress is the military term for the formal evening dress worn by military officers in the mess or at other formal occasions. It is also known as uniform and, more informally. It frequently consists of a jacket and trousers worn with a formal shirt and other formal accessories. At the present time mess dress is sometimes worn by members of civilian uniformed services. The Australian Army has separate mess kits for summer and winter, the summer mess kit is a white jacket, almost identical between different branches of the army. The winter mess kit is made of material, with jackets in the colour of the wearers corps. The winter mess dress includes a waistcoat, both kits have the same barrathea blue trousers, but trousers vary in the colour and width of leg stripe denoting corps. Womens mess attire is the same, except that women wear a skirt instead of trousers, both versions are worn with a bow tie and white shirt, Marcella for winter and plain for summer. Mess dress is worn as evening attire for mess dinners. Uniforms range from full mess dress to service dress worn with a bow tie for individuals not required to own mess dress, Mess dress is not provided at public expense. However, all commissioned officers of the forces are required to own mess dress within six months of being commissioned. Officers of the rank of Captain and above wear a tailcoat instead of the standard jacket, NCMs trousers are the same pattern, but without gold lace down the seam. Miniatures of medals earned are worn on the lapel, miniatures of qualification badges earned are worn on the left breast of the jacket. Summer mess dress is similar except that a jacket with rank insignia on black shoulder boards is worn. The details of regimental distinctions vary by regiments and are defined in detail in the Canadian Forces Dress Instructions, miniature medals are worn on the left breast below miniatures of qualification badges earned. The summer standard pattern mess dress is similar except that a jacket with rank insignia worn on black shoulder boards. Authorized summer dress, consisting of the jacket in lieu of scarlet, varies from regiment to regiment. Miniature medals are worn on the left breast above miniatures of qualification badges earned, the summer mess dress is similar except that a white jacket with rank insignia worn on midnight blue shoulder boards is worn, and is authorized as an optional order for RCAF officers only
29.
Steampunk
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Steampunk is a subgenre of science fiction or science fantasy that incorporates technology and aesthetic designs inspired by 19th-century industrial steam-powered machinery. Therefore, steampunk may be described as neo-Victorian, Steampunk may also incorporate additional elements from the genres of fantasy, horror, historical fiction, alternate history, or other branches of speculative fiction, making it often a hybrid genre. The first known appearance of the term steampunk was in 1987, Steampunk is influenced by and often adopts the style of the 19th-century scientific romances of Jules Verne, H. G. Wells, and Mary Shelley. Several more modern works of art and fiction significant to the development of the genre were produced before the genre had a name, the film Brazil was an important early cinematic influence that helped codify the aesthetics of the genre. The Adventures of Luther Arkwright was a comic version of the Moorcock-style mover between timestreams. In fine art, Remedios Varos paintings combine elements of Victorian dress, fantasy, in television, one of the earliest manifestations of the steampunk ethos in the mainstream media was the CBS television series The Wild Wild West, which inspired the subsequent film. Although many works now considered seminal to the genre were published in the 1960s and 1970s and it was coined by science fiction author K. W. G. Wells The Time Machine. Though of course, I did find her review in the March Locus to be quite flattering, personally, I think Victorian fantasies are going to be the next big thing, as long as we can come up with a fitting collective term for Powers, Blaylock and myself. Something based on the technology of the era, like steam-punks. They were far from the first modern science fiction writers to speculate on the development of steam-based technology or alternative histories, keith Laumers Worlds of the Imperium and Ronald W. Clarks Queen Victorias Bomb apply modern speculation to past-age technology and society. Michael Moorcocks Warlord of the Air is another early example, harry Harrisons novel A Transatlantic Tunnel, Hurrah. Portrays a British Empire of an alternative year 1973, full of atomic locomotives, coal-powered flying boats, ornate submarines, the Adventures of Luther Arkwright was the first steampunk comic. In February 1980, Richard A. Lupoff and Steve Stiles published the first chapter of their 10-part comic strip The Adventures of Professor Thintwhistle and His Incredible Aether Flyer. Indeed, both sensibilities recall the older but still modern eras in which technological change seemed to anticipate a better world, one of steampunk’s most significant contributions is the way in which it mixes digital media with traditional handmade art forms. As scholars Rachel Bowser and Brian Croxall put it, the tinkering and tinker-able technologies within steampunk invite us to roll up our sleeves, in this respect, steampunk bears more in common with DIY craft and making. This theme is carried over to Disneys theme parks, in the designs of The Mysterious Island section of Tokyo DisneySea theme park. Aspects of steampunk design emphasise a balance between form and function, in this it is like the Arts and Crafts Movement. But John Ruskin, William Morris, and the reformers in the late nineteenth century rejected machines
30.
Superhero
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A female superhero is sometimes called a superheroine. Fiction centered on characters, especially in American comic books since the 1930s, is known as superhero fiction. By most definitions, characters do not require actual supernatural or superhuman powers or phenomena to be deemed superheroes, some superheroes use their powers to counter daily crime while also combating threats against humanity from supervillains, who are their criminal counterparts. Often at least one of these supervillains will be the superheros archenemy, some long-running superheroes such as Iron Man, Captain America, Superman, Wonder Woman, Batman, and Spider-Man have a rogues gallery of many villains. The word superhero dates to at least 1917, antecedents of the archetype include such folkloric heroes as Robin Hood, who adventured in distinctive clothing. The 1903 play The Scarlet Pimpernel and its spinoffs popularized the idea of a masked avenger, during the 1940s there were many superheroes, and only a few of these were female. The Flash, Green Lantern and Blue Beetle debuted in this era, most of the other female costumed crime-fighters during this era lacked superpowers. The most iconic comic book superheroine, who debuted during the Golden Age, is Wonder Woman, inspired by the Amazons of Greek mythology, she was created by psychologist William Moulton Marston, with help and inspiration from his wife Elizabeth and their mutual lover Olive Byrne. Wonder Womans first appearance was in All Star Comics #8, published by All-American Publications, in 1952, Osamu Tezukas manga Tetsuwan Atom was published. The series focused upon a robot boy built by a scientist to replace his deceased son, the 1950s saw the Silver Age of Comics. During this era DC introduced the likes of Batwoman in 1956, Supergirl, Miss Arrowette,1958 saw the debut of superhero Moonlight Mask on Japanese television. In 1963, Astro Boy was adapted into a highly influential anime television series, Phantom Agents in 1964 focused on ninjas working for the Japanese government and would be the foundation for Sentai-type series. Another important event was the debut of Mazinger Z by Go Nagai, Go Nagai also wrote the manga Cutey Honey in 1973, although the Magical Girl genre already existed, Nagais manga introduced Transformation sequences that would become a staple of Magical Girl media. The dark Skull Man manga would later get a television adaptation, the protagonist was redesigned resemble a grasshopper, becoming the renowned first masked hero of the Kamen Rider series. Kamen Rider is a motorcycle riding hero in an insect-like costume, both major publishers began introducing new superheroines with a more distinct feminist theme as part of their origin stories or character development. Examples include Big Barda, Power Girl, and the Huntress by DC comics, and from Marvel, the second Black Widow, Shanna the She-Devil, and The Cat. In 1975 Shotaro Ishinomoris Himitsu Sentai Gorenger debuted on what is now TV Asahi, it brought the concepts of multi-colored teams, in 1978, Toei adapted Spider-Man into a live-action series. In subsequent decades, popular characters like Dazzler, She-Hulk, Elektra, Catwoman, Witchblade, Spider-Girl, Batgirl, volume 4 of the X-Men comic book series featured an all-female team as part of the Marvel NOW. branding initiative in 2013
31.
Superman
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Superman is a fictional superhero appearing in American comic books published by DC Comics. The character was created by writer Jerry Siegel and artist Joe Shuster, high school living in Cleveland, Ohio. They sold Superman to Detective Comics, the future DC Comics, Superman debuted in Action Comics #1 and subsequently appeared in various radio serials, newspaper strips, television programs, films, and video games. With this success, Superman helped to create the superhero archetype, the character is also referred to by such epithets as the Man of Steel, the Man of Tomorrow, and The Last Son of Krypton. Discovered and adopted by a Kansas farm couple, the child is raised as Clark Kent, very early on he started to display various superhuman abilities, which, upon reaching maturity, he resolved to use for the benefit of humanity through a secret Superman identity. Superman resides and operates in the fictional American city of Metropolis, as Clark Kent, he is a journalist for the Daily Planet, a Metropolis newspaper. Supermans love interest is generally Lois Lane, and his archenemy is supervillain Lex Luthor and he is typically a member of the Justice League and close ally of Batman and Wonder Woman. Like other characters in the DC Universe, several versions of Superman have been depicted over the years. Supermans appearance is distinctive and iconic, he wears a blue costume with a red-and-yellow emblem on the chest, consisting of the letter S in a shield shape. This shield is used in media to symbolize the character. Superman is widely considered an American cultural icon and he has fascinated scholars, with cultural theorists, commentators, and critics alike exploring the characters impact and role in the United States and worldwide. The characters ownership has often been the subject of dispute, with Siegel, the character has been adapted extensively and portrayed in other forms of media as well, including films, television series, and video games. Several actors have portrayed Superman in motion pictures and TV series including Kirk Alyn, George Reeves, Christopher Reeve, Dean Cain, Tom Welling, Brandon Routh, Henry Cavill, Siegels fanzine did not sell well. Siegel and Shuster shifted to making comic strips, which they self-published in a book they called Popular Comics, the pair dreamed of becoming professional authors and believed that syndicated newspaper strips offered more lucrative and stable work than pulp magazines. The art quality standards were lower, making them more accessible to the inexperienced Shuster. In early 1933 or in 1934, Siegel developed a new character, also named Superman, but now a heroic character and this first prototype of Superman had no fantastic abilities and wore casual clothing. Siegel and Shuster often compared this version to Slam Bradley, a character they created in 1936. Siegel shared his idea with Shuster and they decided to turn it into a comic strip, the first publisher they solicited was Humor Publishing in Chicago, after having read one of their comic books, Detective Dan
32.
American comic book
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An American comic book is a thin periodical, typically 32-pages, containing primarily comics content. While the form originated in 1933, American comic books first gained popularity after the 1938 publication of Action Comics and this was followed by a superhero boom that lasted until the end of World War II. After the war, while superheroes were marginalized, the book industry rapidly expanded, and genres such as horror, crime. The 1950s saw a decline, due to a shift away from print media in the wake of television. The late 1950s and the 1960s saw a revival. Since the later 20th century, comic books have gained note as collectable items, Comic shops cater to fans, and particularly valuable issues have fetched in excess of a million dollars. Systems of grading comic books have emerged with plastic sleeves and cardboard backing available to maintain the condition of comic books, standard comics are 6.625 inches ×10.25 inches and about 32 pages long. While comics can be the work of a creator, the labour of making them is frequently divided between a number of specialists. There may be a writer and artist, or there may be separate artists for the characters. The process begins with the coming up with an idea or concept, then working it into a plot and story. After the art production, letters are placed on the page, the creative team, the writers and artists, may work with a comic book publisher for help with marketing, advertising, and other logistics. A distributor like Diamond Comic Distributors, the largest in the U. S. helps to distribute the product to retailers. Another part of the involved in successful comics is the interaction between the readers/fans and the creator. Fan art and letters to the editor were printed in the back of the book until the early 21st century. Comic specialty stores did help encourage several waves of independently-produced comics, the development of the modern American comic book happened in stages. The G. W. Dillingham Company published the first known proto-comic-book magazine in the U. S, the Yellow Kid in McFaddens Flats, in 1897. The 196-page, square-bound, black-and-white publication, which also includes text by E. W. Townsend, measured 5×7 inches. The neologism comic book appears on the back cover, despite the publication of a series of related Hearst comics soon afterward, the first monthly proto-comic book, Embee Distributing Companys Comic Monthly, did not appear until 1922
33.
Batman
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Batman is a fictional superhero appearing in American comic books published by DC Comics. The character was created by artist Bob Kane and writer Bill Finger, originally named the Bat-Man, the character is also referred to by such epithets as the Caped Crusader, the Dark Knight, and the Worlds Greatest Detective. Batmans secret identity is Bruce Wayne, a wealthy American playboy, philanthropist, after witnessing the murder of his parents Thomas Wayne and Martha Wayne as a child, he swore vengeance against criminals, an oath tempered by a sense of justice. Wayne trains himself physically and intellectually and crafts a bat-inspired persona to fight crime, Batman operates in the fictional Gotham City, with assistance from various supporting characters, including his butler Alfred, police commissioner Gordon, and vigilante allies such as Robin. A large assortment of villains make up Batmans rogues gallery, including his archenemy, Batman became popular soon after his introduction in 1939 and gained his own comic book title, Batman, the following year. As the decades went on, differing interpretations of the character emerged, the late 1960s Batman television series used a camp aesthetic, which continued to be associated with the character for years after the show ended. Various creators worked to return the character to his dark roots, the success of Warner Bros. live-action Batman feature films have helped maintain the publics interest in the character. The character has also intrigued psychiatrists, with trying to understand the characters psyche. In 2015, FanSided ranked Batman as number one on their list of 50 Greatest Super Heroes In Comic Book History. Kevin Conroy, Bruce Greenwood, Peter Weller, Anthony Ruivivar, Jason OMara, Batman has been portrayed in both film and television by Lewis Wilson, Robert Lowery, Adam West, Michael Keaton, Val Kilmer, George Clooney, Christian Bale, and Ben Affleck. In early 1939, the success of Superman in Action Comics prompted editors at National Comics Publications to request more superheroes for its titles, in response, Bob Kane created the Bat-Man. Collaborator Bill Finger recalled that Kane had an idea for a character called Batman, I went over to Kanes, and he had drawn a character who looked very much like Superman with kind of. Reddish tights, I believe, with boots, with a small domino mask, swinging on a rope. He had two wings that were sticking out, looking like bat wings. And under it was a big sign, the bat-wing-like cape was suggested by Bob Kane, inspired by Leonardo Da Vincis sketch of an ornithopter flying device as a child. Finger suggested giving the character a cowl instead of a domino mask, a cape instead of wings. Finger said he devised the name Bruce Wayne for the secret identity, Bruce Waynes first name came from Robert Bruce. Wayne, being a playboy, was a man of gentry, I searched for a name that would suggest colonialism
34.
Shroud (comics)
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The Shroud is a fictional superhero appearing in American comic books published by Marvel Comics. The Shroud first appeared in Super-Villain Team-Up #5 and was created by Steve Englehart, Englehart has acknowledged that the character was intended as a mashup of DC Comics Batman and The Shadow. At the age of 10, the child who would grow up to become The Shroud saw his parents gunned down right before his eyes and he decided to dedicate his life to fighting crime. Upon graduation from college, he joined the temple called Cult of Kali. After seven years of training, he graduated from that temple. During the celebration ceremony, he was branded with the Kiss of Kali and he had the image of the goddess Kali imprinted in livid scar tissue on his face from nose to hairline and from cheek to cheek. Following a period of intense pain and hospitalization, he realized that his eyesight had been replaced by a mystic extrasensory perception, traveling back to the United States, he adopted the masked identity of the Shroud. His first appearance as a hero was in Latveria, where he encountered the Human Torch and he invaded Latveria, intending to kill Doctor Doom for his crimes against humanity. Shroud recounted his origin to Namor the Sub-Mariner, and the two secretly entered Latveria disguised as members of the Ringmasters Circus of Crime, Shroud joined Prince Rudolfos revolution against Doctor Doom, and came close to his revenge. However, the Shroud shifted gears in order help Doctor Doom and Captain America oppose someone else with a track record of crimes against humanity. In outer space, Shroud was shot by a ray built by Red Skull while Doctor Doom battled Red Skull on the moon, Shroud was rescued by Captain America, while Red Skull was left defeated on the moon. Captain America brought Shroud back to Earth, but because of his time in space, Shroud became insane, after this recovery, Shroud discovered that he was able to tap into the Darkforce dimension. The Shroud later recruits Spider-Woman to infiltrate a S. H. I. E. L. D, facility so that they can access the files. Alongside Spider-Woman, the Shroud battled the Cult of Kali, Shroud then took on Cat and Mouse as his aides. He then teamed with Spider-Man against Dansen Macabre, the Shroud aided the Avengers and Doctor Strange against Morgan le Fay. He helped restore the former Spider-Womans astral self to her body and he later refused Hawkeyes offer to join the West Coast Avengers. Shroud assisted a depowered Jessica Drew against some crooks and he assisted the West Coast Avengers against Graviton and the Blank. The Shroud went undercover in Los Angeles and operating as a crime-fighter masquerading as a criminal and this led him to create the group known as the Night Shift
35.
Cloak and Dagger (comics)
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Cloak and Dagger are a fictional comic book superhero duo appearing in American comic books published by Marvel Comics. They were created by writer Bill Mantlo and artist Ed Hannigan, in April 2016, Marvel Television announced that the duo would appear in their own television show, with Aubrey Joseph and Olivia Holt portraying Johnson and Bowen, respectively. The inspiration for Cloak and Dagger came to Bill Mantlo after a visit to Ellis Island and he recounted, They came in the night, when all was silent and my mind was blank. They came completely conceived as to their powers and attributes, their origin and they embodied between them all that fear and misery, hunger and longing that had haunted me on Ellis Island. He gave me a lot of leeway, but it was obvious that Cloak would be black and have a big ‘animated’ black cloak. I am not sure, but I think I might have come up with her ballet angle, I put the same kind of amulet/clasp on both costumes and came up with the dagger-shaped cutout on her costume, which was quite daring at the time. Cloak and Dagger first appeared in Peter Parker, the Spectacular Spider-Man #64, after a number of additional Spider-Man guest appearances, they were given their own four-issue limited series, written by creator Bill Mantlo, penciled by Rick Leonardi, and inked by Terry Austin. It debuted in October 1983 and was a success, prompting Marvel Comics to launch an ongoing bi-monthly Cloak and Dagger series in 1985, with the same creative team. Costumed supervillains rarely appeared in the series, which focused on Cloak, Leonardi left after issue #6 and was replaced by a series of fill-in pencilers. After issue #11, Marvel combined the bi-monthly titles Cloak and Dagger and Doctor Strange into a monthly double-feature series, the title change was accompanied by Bret Blevins stepping in as both penciler and inker. Austin would shortly return, but as the series writer this time, though still successful, Cloak and Daggers sales had been declining for some time, and Marvels editorial staff felt that a new writer was needed in order to revitalize the characters. Austin immediately introduced Cloak and Daggers first nemesis, Mister Jip, in 1988, they starred in Marvel Graphic Novel #34, Cloak and Dagger, Predator and Prey, which was written by Mantlo before his departure from the series. Strange Tales ran 19 issues before Marvel decided to split Cloak and Dagger, Cloak and Dagger, now retitled The Mutant Misadventures of Cloak and Dagger, were by this point being written by Austin and penciled by Mike Vosburg. Dagger was rendered blind in the first issue, and her struggles to deal with this new disability were a theme of the series. Both Austin and Vosburg were gone by issue #14, subsequent issues were variously written by Steve Gerber and/or Terry Kavanagh, but sales began to falter and the series was canceled with issue #19. Cloak made a appearance in issues of the miniseries House of M. It was uncertain if Dagger also existed in the reality of House of M as there were no mentions of her during that storyline. They have appeared in various other Marvel Universes, in one of which Cloak was killed, Dagger also served as a member of Marvel Knights in a short running mini-series
36.
Spawn (comics)
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Spawn is a fictional character, an antihero that appears in a monthly comic book of the same name published by Image Comics. Created by Todd McFarlane, the character first appeared in Spawn #1, the series has spun off several other comics, including Angela, Curse of the Spawn, Sam & Twitch, and the Japanese manga Shadows of Spawn. The character also appears in annual compilations, mini-series specials written by guest authors and artists, Spawn enjoyed considerable popularity upon its initial release in the 1990s. Comic book collecting was enjoying a marked upswing at the time, McFarlane had enjoyed superstar status among comic fans with his work on Spider-Man, which had featured McFarlanes name prominently as both writer and artist. McFarlanes subsequent break with Marvel and the formation of Image Comics was seen by many as a sea-change event, wizard, on May 2008, rated The Launch of Image Comics as No.1 in the list of events that rocked the Comic Industry from 1991 to 2008. The first issue of Spawn was very popular with sales of 1.7 million copies, sales slumped around the time of Spawn #25, but by Spawn #45 it was again a consistently strong seller. However, the film was only a commercial success and failed to start a film franchise based on the character. A2008 issue, Spawn #174, ranked 99th best-selling comic of the month with orders of 22,667. In October 2008, issue #185, which marked both a new direction and Todd McFarlanes return to the book, sold out at the distribution level. By issue #191 in May 2009, with estimated sales of 19,803 copies, as of August 2010 Spawn no longer was ranked in the top 300 sales figures chart reported by Diamond Comic Distributors. On the day of its release in 2011, issue #200 sold out and this issue featured work by Greg Capullo, David Finch, Michael Golden, Jim Lee, Rob Liefeld, Marc Silvestri, Danny Miki, and Ashley Wood. A second printing was released the next month, despite its remarkable sales, it received a negative review from IGN. Albert Francis Al Simmons, born in Detroit Michigan, was a highly trained Force Recon Marine who was at his most successful point when he saved the President from an attempted assassination. He was promoted to a level and recruited to a highly classified unit within the CIA devoted to black ops. Once there, he began to question the morality of what his agency was doing, Jason Wynn hired Bruce Stinson, Simmons friend and partner, to kill him. In a blazing inferno, Simmons was killed and his soul sent to Hell, Simmons made a deal with an evil being known as Malebolgia, in exchange for his soul, he would get to see once again his wife, Wanda. However, when Simmons returned to the world, five years had passed. After regaining his memories, he sought out his wife, only to find she had moved on and married his best friend, Terry Fitzgerald, after this event, the Violator appeared, and revealed to Simmons the purpose of his resurrection
37.
Watchmen
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Watchmen is an American comic-book limited series published by DC Comics in 1986 and 1987, and collected in 1987. The series was created by a British collaboration consisting of writer Alan Moore, artist Dave Gibbons, Watchmen originated from a story proposal Moore submitted to DC featuring superhero characters that the company had acquired from Charlton Comics. As Moores proposed story would have many of the characters unusable for future stories. Moore used the story as a means to reflect contemporary anxieties and to deconstruct, the story focuses on the personal development and moral struggles of the protagonists as an investigation into the murder of a government-sponsored superhero pulls them out of retirement. Creatively, the focus of Watchmen is on its structure, Gibbons used a nine-panel grid layout throughout the series and added recurring symbols such as a blood-stained smiley face. Structured, at times, as a narrative, the story skips through space, time. In the same manner, entire scenes and dialogue have parallels with others through synchronicity, coincidence, the BBC described it as The moment comic books grew up. After a number of attempts to adapt the series into a feature film, a video game series, Watchmen, The End Is Nigh, was released in the same year to coincide with the films release. In 2012, DC Comics published Before Watchmen, a comic-book series acting as a prequel to the original Watchmen series, without Moore and Gibbons involvement. Watchmen, created by writer Alan Moore and artist Dave Gibbons, was first published as a 12-issue maxiseries from DC Comics, cover-dated September 1986 to October 1987. In February 1988, DC published a limited-edition, slipcased hardcover volume, produced by Graphitti Design, in 2005, DC released Absolute Watchmen, an oversized slipcased hardcover edition of the series in DCs Absolute Edition format. Assembled under the supervision of Dave Gibbons, Absolute Watchmen included the Graphitti materials and that December DC published a new printing of Watchmen issue #1 at the original 1986 cover price of $1.50 as part of its Millennium Edition line. In 2012, DC launched a line, with various creative teams producing the characters early adventures before the events of the graphic novel. In 1985, DC Comics acquired a line of characters from Charlton Comics, during that period, writer Alan Moore contemplated writing a story that featured an unused line of superheroes that he could revamp, as he had done in his Miracleman series in the early 1980s. Moore reasoned that MLJ Comics Mighty Crusaders might be available for such a project, Moore used this premise and crafted a proposal featuring the Charlton characters titled Who Killed the Peacemaker, and submitted the unsolicited proposal to DC managing editor Dick Giordano. Giordano was receptive to the proposal, but opposed the idea of using the Charlton characters for the story, Moore said, DC realized their expensive characters would end up either dead or dysfunctional. Instead, Giordano persuaded Moore to continue with new characters, Moore had initially believed that original characters would not provide emotional resonance for the readers, but later changed his mind. Artist Dave Gibbons, who had collaborated with Moore on previous projects, I rang Alan up, saying I’d like to be involved with what he was doing
38.
The Incredibles
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The Incredibles is a 2004 American computer-animated superhero film written and directed by Brad Bird, produced by Pixar Animation Studios, and released by Walt Disney Pictures. The film follows a family of superheroes who is forced to hide their powers, Mr. Bird, who was Pixars first outside director, developed the film as an extension of 1960s comic books and spy films from his boyhood and personal family life. He pitched the film to Pixar after the box office disappointment of his first feature, The Iron Giant, the animation team was tasked with animating an all-human cast, which required creating new technology to animate detailed human anatomy, clothing and realistic skin and hair. Michael Giacchino composed the orchestral score. The film premiered on October 27,2004, at the BFI London Film Festival and had its release in the United States on November 5,2004. The film performed well at the box office, grossing $633 million worldwide during its theatrical run. The Incredibles was met with critical acclaim, garnering high marks from professional critics. The film received the 2004 Annie Award for Best Animated Feature and it became the first entirely animated film to win the prestigious Hugo Award for Best Dramatic Presentation. A sequel, The Incredibles 2, is scheduled for release on June 15,2018, public opinion turns against humans with superpowers – called Supers – due to peripheral damage caused by their crime-fighting activities. After several lawsuits, they are forced into civilian relocation programs by the government, fifteen years later, Bob and Helen Parr, formerly known as Mr. Incredible and Elastigirl, and their children Violet, Dash, and Jack-Jack live as a suburban family. Bob is dissatisfied with life and his white-collar job, longing for the glory days. Sometimes, Bob and his old friend Lucius Best – formerly known as Frozone – perform vigilante work without their wives knowledge during the night, one day, Bob loses his temper because his supervisor refuses to let him stop a mugging, causing him to be dismissed. Arriving on Nomanisan, Bob is able to find and destroy the Omnidroid by tricking it into ripping out its own power source. Bob is rejuvenated by being able to use his powers freely, improving his attitude and relationship with his family, he begins rigorous training while waiting for more work from Mirage. Discovering a tear in his suit, Bob visits superhero costume designer Edna Mode, who decides to make him and his whole family suits, unbeknownst to Helen and the kids. Leaving for Nomanisan once again, Bob discovers that Mirage is working for Buddy Pine, Bob sneaks into Syndromes island base and finds his computer. He discovers that Syndrome has lured countless retired superheroes to their deaths, meanwhile, Helen visits Edna, learns what Bob has been up to, and activates a homing beacon Edna built into the suits to find him, inadvertently causing Bob to be discovered and captured. Helen borrows an airplane to head for Nomanisan, but finds Violet and Dash have stowed away wearing their own suits, Syndrome picks up Helens radio transmissions and shoots down the plane
39.
Tippet
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A tippet is a scarf-like narrow piece of clothing, worn over the shoulders. It may also be likened to a stole in the rather than ecclesiastic sense of this word. Tippets evolved in the century from long sleeves and typically had one end hanging down to the knees. In later fashion, a tippet is often any scarf-like wrap, usually made of fur, the ceremonial scarf worn by Anglican priests is called a tippet. The tippet is worn with dress and hangs straight down at the front. Ordained clergy wear a tippet, while licensed readers wear a blue one. In some countries it is simply referred to as a preaching scarf, black scarf. The tippet is different from the stole, which although often worn like a scarf is a Eucharistic vestment, usually made of richer material, clergy who are entitled to wear medals, orders or awards may fix them to the upper left side of the tippet on suitable occasions. Sometimes the right end of the tippet is embroidered with the coat of arms of the institution of which the cleric is a member. Tippets are often worn for the Daily Offices of Morning Prayer, stricter low church clergy may wear the tippet and choir dress during any church service, whether Communion is celebrated or not. This follows a practice that was enforced from the Reformation until the late 19th century, by contrast, Anglican Catholics tend not to wear the tippet, often preferring to wear the choir habit of Roman Catholic clergy instead. Some Lutherans use the tippet, as well, members of the Society of the Holy Trinity wear a tippet embroidered with the Societys seal when presiding at the daily office. The black preaching scarf is worn by some Scottish Presbyterian ministers. Some Officers replace this with a Scarf form of the tippet, a different and non-religious sort of tippet, a shoulder-length cape, has been part of the uniform of British military nurses or of nursing uniforms in Commonwealth countries. These are often decorated with piping and may have badges or insignia indicating the wearers rank, arnold, Janet, Queen Elizabeths Wardrobe Unlockd, W S Maney and Son Ltd, Leeds 1988. ISBN 0-901286-20-6 Netherton, Robin, The Tippet, Accessory after Fact. in Robin Netherton and Gale R. No ISBN for this edition, ASIN B0006BMNFS Dickinson, Emily, My Tippet - only Tulle -, in Because I could not stop for Death, Poems, Robert Brothers of Boston,1890
40.
Duster (clothing)
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A duster is a light, loose-fitting long coat. The original dusters were full-length, light-colored canvas or linen coats worn by horsemen to protect their clothing from trail dust and these dusters were typically slit up the back to hip level for ease of wear on horseback and were the recommended uniform for Texas Rangers. Dusters intended for riding may have such as a buttonable rear slit. For better protection against rain, dusters were made from oilcloth, in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, both men and women wore dusters to protect their clothes when riding in open motorcars on the dirt roads of the day. Western horsemens dusters gained renewed popularity in the late 20th century and are now an item of western wear. They figured little in Western films until Sergio Leone re-introduced them in his movies The Good, the Bad, the latter played for many months in Paris and was in part credited with a revival of the duster in mens fashions in that city. In modern times, leather dusters are worn by motorcyclists to prevent road rash, similarly, in the genre of heroic bloodshed, primarily through Chow Yun Fat and John Woo, the hero is often seen wearing a duster. Driza-Bone J. Barbour & Sons Trench coat George-Warren, Holly, picken, Mary Brooks, The Fashion Dictionary, Funk and Wagnalls,1957. Merriam Websters 10th Collegiate Dictionary Oxford English Dictionary
41.
Clothing
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Clothing is fiber and textile material worn on the body. The wearing of clothing is mostly restricted to human beings and is a feature of all human societies. The amount and type of clothing worn depends on type, social. Some clothing types can be gender-specific, physically, clothing serves many purposes, it can serve as protection from the elements, and can enhance safety during hazardous activities such as hiking and cooking. It protects the wearer from rough surfaces, rash-causing plants, insect bites, splinters, thorns, Clothes can insulate against cold or hot conditions. Further, they can provide a barrier, keeping infectious. Clothing also provides protection from ultraviolet radiation, there is no easy way to determine when clothing was first developed, but some information has been inferred by studying lice. The body louse specifically lives in clothing, and diverge from head lice about 170 millennia ago, another theory is that modern humans are the only survivors of several species of primates who may have worn clothes and that clothing may have been used as long ago as 650 millennia. Other louse-based estimates put the introduction of clothing at around 42, the most obvious function of clothing is to improve the comfort of the wearer, by protecting the wearer from the elements. In hot climates, clothing provides protection from sunburn or wind damage, shelter usually reduces the functional need for clothing. For example, coats, hats, gloves, and other layers are normally removed when entering a warm home. Similarly, clothing has seasonal and regional aspects, so that thinner materials, Clothing performs a range of social and cultural functions, such as individual, occupational and gender differentiation, and social status. In many societies, norms about clothing reflect standards of modesty, religion, gender, Clothing may also function as a form of adornment and an expression of personal taste or style. Clothing can and has in history been made from a wide variety of materials. Materials have ranged from leather and furs, to materials, to elaborate and exotic natural. Not all body coverings are regarded as clothing, Clothing protects against many things that might injure the uncovered human body. Clothes protect people from the elements, including rain, snow, wind, however, clothing that is too sheer, thin, small, tight, etc. offers less protection. Clothes also reduce risk during activities such as work or sport, some clothing protects from specific environmental hazards, such as insects, noxious chemicals, weather, weapons, and contact with abrasive substances
42.
Headgear
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Headgear, headwear or headdress is the name given to any element of clothing which is worn on ones head. Some styles of bonnets had peaks so large that they prevented women from looking right or left without turning their heads. Bonnets worn by men and boys are generally distinguished from hats by being soft, caps are generally soft and often have no brim or just a peak. For many centuries women wore a variety of head-coverings which were called caps, an ochipok is part of traditional Ukrainian costume. Some headgear, such as the crown, coronet, and tiara, have evolved into jewelry and these headgear are worn as a symbol of nobility or royal status. Kokoshnik is part of Russian traditional dress, often worn by nobility, a fillet or circlet is a round band worn around the head and over the hair. Elaborate and costly versions of these evolved into crowns, but fillets could be made from woven bands of fabric, leather. Fillets are unisex, and are prevalent in archaic to renaissance dress. Hairnets are used to prevent loose hair from contaminating food or work areas, a snood is a net or fabric bag pinned or tied on at the back of a womans head for holding the hair. Scarves are used to protect styled hair or keep it tidy, shower caps and swim caps prevent hair from becoming wet or entangled during activity. Hats often have an all the way around the rim. Depending on the type of hat, they may be worn by men. Helmets are designed to protect the head, and sometimes the neck and they are usually rigid, and offer protection from blows. Helmets are commonly worn in battle, on sites and in many contact sports. In most of the United States they are required by law for operating a range of vehicles including motorcycles. Modern hoods are generally soft headcoverings which are a part of a larger garment, like an overcoat. Historically, hoods were either similar to modern hoods, or a form of headgear. In medieval Europe hoods with short capes, called chaperons in French, were extremely common, a mask is worn over part or all of the face, frequently to disguise the wearer, but sometimes to protect the face
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Beret
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A beret is a soft, round, flat-crowned hat, usually of woven, hand-knitted wool, crocheted cotton, wool felt, or acrylic fibre. Mass production began in 19th century France and Spain, countries with which it remains associated, Berets are worn as part of the uniform of many military and police units worldwide, as well as by other organisations. Such headgear has been popular among the nobility and artists across Europe throughout modern history, the commercial production of Basque-style berets began in the 17th century in the Oloron-Sainte-Marie area of Southern France. Originally a local craft, beret-making became industrialised in the 19th century, the first factory, Beatex-Laulhere, claims production records dating back to 1810. In Western fashion, men and women have worn the beret since the 1920s as sportswear, military berets were first adopted by the French Chasseurs Alpins in 1889. They were approved for use by King George V in 1924, the black RTR beret was made famous by Field Marshal Montgomery in the Second World War. The beret fits snugly around the head, and can be shaped in a variety of ways – in the Americas it is commonly worn pushed to one side. In Central and South America, local custom usually prescribes the manner of wearing the beret, there is no rule and older gentlemen usually wear it squared on the head. It can be worn by men and women. Military uniform berets feature a headband or sweatband attached to the wool, made either from leather, silk or cotton ribbon, the drawstrings are, according to custom, either tied and cut off or tucked in or else left to dangle. The beret is often adorned with a cap badge, either in cloth or metal, some berets have a piece of buckram or other stiffener in the position where the badge is intended to be worn. Berets are not usually lined, but many are lined with silk or satin. In military berets, the headband is worn on the outside, the traditional beret, usually has the sweatband folded inwardly. In such a case, these berets have only an inch or so of the same woollen material designed to be folded inwardly. Newer beret styles made of Polar fleece are also popular and they are very popular and common in the Basque Country. The colours adopted for folk costumes varied by region and purpose, black and blue are worn more frequently than red and white, the people of Aragon adopted red berets while the black beret became the common headgear of workers in France and Spain. A big commemorative black beret is the trophy in sport or bertso competitions, including Basque rural sports, the Basque portions of the Tour de France. It may bear sewn ornamental references to the achievement or contest, the black beret was once considered the national cap of France in Anglo-Saxon countries and is part of the stereotypical image of the Onion Johnny
44.
Baseball cap
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A baseball cap is a type of soft cap with a rounded crown and a stiff peak projecting in front. The front of the cap typically contains designs or logos of sports teams, the back of the cap may be fitted to the wearers head size or it may have a plastic, Velcro, or elastic adjuster so that it can be quickly adjusted to fit different wearers. The baseball cap is a part of the traditional uniform worn by players. The cap is seen in everyday casual wear. In 1860, the Brooklyn Excelsiors wore the ancestor of the modern baseball cap, which featured a long peak and a button on top, and by 1900. During the 1940s, latex rubber became the material inside the hat. The peak, also known in areas as the bill or brim, was designed to protect a players eyes from the sun. Typically, the peak was much shorter in the days of the baseball hat. Also, the hat has become more structured, versus the overall cap of the 19th. The baseball cap was and still is an important means by which to identify a team, often the logo, mascot, or teams initial was placed on the cap. Usually, the cap was also fashioned in the colors of a particular team. The basic shape, including curved peak, is similar to styles of 19th century sun bonnets. Fitted baseball caps, those without an adjuster, are sewn in six sections. Metal grommets or fabric eyelets are often sewn or attached near the top of each of the six sections of fabric to provide ventilation, in some cases, the rear sections of the crown are made of net-like mesh material for extra ventilation. The peak is typically stiffened by a piece of paperboard or stiff plastic. Baseball caps are made of many types of material and shaped in various styles for different purposes, major and minor league baseball players wear classic-style caps made of wool with their teams simple logo and colors, the logo is usually embroidered into the fabric. Formerly, baseball caps only came in standard hat sizes, since 1980, they have also been available in a one-size-fits-all form, with an adjustment strap in the back. The style, commonly called snapback, has become popular as fashion accessories
