1.
Inverness cape
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The Inverness cape is a form of weatherproof outercoat. It is notable for being sleeveless, the arms emerging from armholes beneath a cape and it has become associated with the fictional detective Sherlock Holmes. The garment began as the Inverness coat, an outer-coat with sleeves covered by a long cape, by the 1870s, the cape was divided in two, and a small capelet-like wing on each side was sewn into the side seams, not taken across the back. In the 1880s, the sleeves were removed entirely, and the armholes were cut away beneath the cape to form the Inverness cape. The fronts of the coat may be finished in either of two styles, in one, the formal, the topcoat is finished with short lapels. In another style, there are no lapels, a simple fall collar with a tall stand is used, the capes buttoning across. These were also favoured for less formal wear, particularly by coachmen and cab drivers, indeed, this style is usually called a coachmans cape. Unlike most raincoats or other conventional overcoats, the Inverness cape has no sleeves, instead, it has wide-cut armholes in the sides to accommodate the arms. This enables the wearer to access a sporran without unbuttoning and opening up the cape, the opening in the side is covered by a short cape, which can be buttoned up in the front. Arguably the most famous example in fiction, Arthur Conan Doyles famous detective Sherlock Holmes is often associated with the Inverness cape, in the Holmes novels, Holmes is described as wearing an Ulster. Holmess distinctive look, which was complemented with a deerstalker cap. Paget had depicted Holmes as smoking pipes, exclusively. The Inverness cape is a water-repellent garment, the commonly held image of the cape as worn by Holmes is one made of tweed, specifically in a grey houndstooth pattern. However, more modest capes, made of nylon or twill-weave fabrics, Inverness capes are worn by characters in many Western and Spaghetti Western films, such as Lee Van Cleefs character in For a Few Dollars More and Gianni Garko in the Sartana series. In the 1970s, the Third Doctor, in the long-running series Doctor Who, the vampire Barnabas Collins wore an Inverness cape on the cult classic Gothic soap opera Dark Shadows. The 2001 film adaptation of the absurdist play Waiting for Godot has landlord Pozzo wearing an Inverness cape, still worn in the United Kingdom, the Inverness cape is often made of heavy Harris tweed of plaid and checked designs. It is usually worn for country wear, lighter weight black cape-coats are more associated with formal evening attire. Popular Urban Fantasy hero Harry Dresden, of The Dresden Files by Jim Butcher replaced his trademark Duster with an Inverness coat in Cold Days, steampunk fashion has revived the wearing of the Inverness cape to a limited extent
2.
Highland dress
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The term highland dress describes the traditional, regional dress of the Highlands and Isles of Scotland. It is often characterised by tartan patterns in some form, including dress tartans which are modified versions which include white in place of a prominent colour. Specific designs of shirt, jacket, bodice, and headwear may also be worn, along with badges and other devices indicating family. Mens highland dress includes a kilt of his clan tartan, along either a tartan full plaid, fly plaid. Accessories may include a belt, sporran, sgian dubh, tartan socks, garters, kilt pins, ghillie brogues are the traditional, welted rand, thick soled shoes with no tongues and long laces. The laces are wrapped around and tied firmly above the ankles so that the shoes do not get pulled off in the mud. The shoes lack tongues so the wearers feet can dry more quickly in the typically damp Scottish weather, womens highland dress is also based on the clan tartan, either that of her birth clan or, if married, that of her spouses clan if she so chooses. Traditionally, women and girls do not wear kilts but may wear ankle-length tartan skirts, along with a colour-coordinated blouse, a tartan earasaid, sash or tonnag may also be worn, usually pinned with a brooch, sometimes with a clan badge or other family or cultural motif. Womens shoes, also called ghillies, are often the thin, foldable variety with sole and uppers cut from one piece of leather, now used mostly for indoor wear. Like the modern ghillie brogues, they also have no tongue, in 1618, a poet from London, John Taylor described the costume of Scottish aristocrats, lairds, and their followers and servants, dressed for hunting at Braemar. In August and September, all dressed in the same fashion by custom. This included tartan stockings and jerkins, with garters of twisted straw, and they had knotted handkerchiefs at their necks and wore blue caps. Taylor said the tartan was warm stuff of diverse colours, near the end of the seventeenth century, Martin Martin gave a description of traditional womens clothing in the Western Islands, the earasaid with its brooches and buckles. I have seen some of the former of an hundred marks value, it was broad as any ordinary pewter plate, the whole curiously engraven with various animals etc. The plaid being pleated all round, was tied with a belt below the breast, the belt was of leather, and several pieces of silver intermixed with the leather like a chain. The lower end of the belt has a piece of plate about eight inches long and they wore sleeves of scarlet cloth, closed at the end as mens vests, with gold lace round them, having plate buttons with fine stones. According to the English military chaplain Thomas Morer, in 1689 Highland men wore plaids about seven or eight yards long, beneath the plaid they wore a waistcoat or a shirt to the same length as the drape of the plaid. Their stockings were made of the stuff as the plaid
3.
Middle Ages
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In the history of Europe, the Middle Ages or Medieval Period lasted from the 5th to the 15th century. It began with the fall of the Western Roman Empire and merged into the Renaissance, the Middle Ages is the middle period of the three traditional divisions of Western history, classical antiquity, the medieval period, and the modern period. The medieval period is subdivided into the Early, High. Population decline, counterurbanisation, invasion, and movement of peoples, the large-scale movements of the Migration Period, including various Germanic peoples, formed new kingdoms in what remained of the Western Roman Empire. In the seventh century, North Africa and the Middle East—once part of the Byzantine Empire—came under the rule of the Umayyad Caliphate, although there were substantial changes in society and political structures, the break with classical antiquity was not complete. The still-sizeable Byzantine Empire survived in the east and remained a major power, the empires law code, the Corpus Juris Civilis or Code of Justinian, was rediscovered in Northern Italy in 1070 and became widely admired later in the Middle Ages. In the West, most kingdoms incorporated the few extant Roman institutions, monasteries were founded as campaigns to Christianise pagan Europe continued. The Franks, under the Carolingian dynasty, briefly established the Carolingian Empire during the later 8th, the Crusades, first preached in 1095, were military attempts by Western European Christians to regain control of the Holy Land from Muslims. Kings became the heads of centralised nation states, reducing crime and violence, intellectual life was marked by scholasticism, a philosophy that emphasised joining faith to reason, and by the founding of universities. Controversy, heresy, and the Western Schism within the Catholic Church paralleled the conflict, civil strife. Cultural and technological developments transformed European society, concluding the Late Middle Ages, the Middle Ages is one of the three major periods in the most enduring scheme for analysing European history, classical civilisation, or Antiquity, the Middle Ages, and the Modern Period. Medieval writers divided history into periods such as the Six Ages or the Four Empires, when referring to their own times, they spoke of them as being modern. In the 1330s, the humanist and poet Petrarch referred to pre-Christian times as antiqua, leonardo Bruni was the first historian to use tripartite periodisation in his History of the Florentine People. Bruni and later argued that Italy had recovered since Petrarchs time. The Middle Ages first appears in Latin in 1469 as media tempestas or middle season, in early usage, there were many variants, including medium aevum, or middle age, first recorded in 1604, and media saecula, or middle ages, first recorded in 1625. The alternative term medieval derives from medium aevum, tripartite periodisation became standard after the German 17th-century historian Christoph Cellarius divided history into three periods, Ancient, Medieval, and Modern. The most commonly given starting point for the Middle Ages is 476, for Europe as a whole,1500 is often considered to be the end of the Middle Ages, but there is no universally agreed upon end date. English historians often use the Battle of Bosworth Field in 1485 to mark the end of the period
4.
Hood (headgear)
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A hood is a kind of headgear that covers most of the head and neck and sometimes the face. In some cases, hoods are used to prevent the wearer from seeing where they are going, hoods with eye holes can be used to prevent the wearer from being identified, as in the case of Ku Klux Klan members, Islamic terrorists, or criminals such as robbers. The etymology for hood is covering, Old English hod hood, from Proto-Germanic *hodaz, the modern spelling is early 15th century to indicate a long vowel, which is no longer pronounced as such. Meaning removable cover for an automobile engine attested by 1905, little Red Riding Hood translates Charles Perraults Petit Chaperon Rouge. Historically, hoods were either similar to modern hoods, often forming part of a cloak or cape, hoods with short capes, called chaperons in French, were extremely common in medieval Europe, and later evolved into big hats. Soft hoods were worn by men under hats, hoods have also been used as part of uniforms for organizations such as the Ku Klux Klan. A hood to hide or control the wearer often covers the head, with the result that the wearer can see little or nothing, like a blindfold. It may be used on or by a person who has been arrested or kidnapped, or about to suffer judicial execution, the hood may be simply a bag, it may be intended to be, and/or experienced as, humiliating. Today, fashion hoods are generally soft headcoverings which form part of robbing a larger garment and they can be pulled up over the head when needed, or left to hang down the back when not. They may also be detachable to turn a winter overcoat into a summer one, the Inuit peoples of the Arctic were expert clothing manufacturers, and the womens anorak, technically called an amauti, features a large hood used to shelter an infant on its mothers back. In Japan hoods covered with chainmail or armour plates were worn by samurai warriors, scuba divers who dive in cold water often wear neoprene hoods for thermal insulation. They cover the head and neck except the face. A hood is a component of academic dress that is a bright and decorative garment worn over a gown. The shape of hoods of universities and colleges in the UK and in many Commonwealth countries have been derived from those prescribed at the Universities of Oxford and Cambridge. Other English universities use one of these patterns or adapt them, for example, newer universities, such as the University of Kent use a hood with triangular cape but with no cowl, and with a distinctive V shaped segment denoting the faculty. The hoods of the University of Aberdeen have a rounded flat cape, the pattern of hoods in the US largely follow an intercollegiate code. Balaclava Bondage hood Burqini French Hood Gable hood Headscarf Hoodie Sartorial hijab Cucullus, a Latin word meaning hood
5.
Chaperon (headgear)
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Chaperon was a form of hood or, later, highly versatile hat worn in all parts of Western Europe in the Middle Ages. It was especially fashionable in mid-15th century Burgundy, before falling out of fashion in the late 15th century. It is the most commonly worn male headgear in Early Netherlandish painting, the chaperon began before 1200 as a hood with a short cape, put on by pulling over the head, or fastening at the front. The hood could be pulled off the head to hang behind, leaving the short cape round the neck, the edge of the cape was often trimmed, cut or scalloped for decorative effect. There were wool ones, used in weather, and lighter ones for summer. In this form it continued through to the end of the Middle Ages, worn by the classes, often by women as well as men. The hood was loose at the back, and sometimes ended in a tail that came to a point. Chaperon is a diminutive of chape, which derives, like the English cap, cape and cope, from the Late Latin cappa, the tail of the hood, often quite long, was called the tippit or liripipe in English, and liripipe or cornette in French. The cape element was a patte in French and in English cape, later a round bourrelet could form part of the assemblage. Patte, cornette and bourrelet were the terms in the French of the 15th century Burgundian court. In Italian the equivalent terms were foggia, becchetto, and mazzocchio, chaperon was sometimes used in English, and also German, for both the hood and hat forms. But the word never appears in the Paston Letters, where there are references to hats, hoods. In French chaperon was also the term in falconry for the hood placed over a head when held on the hand to stop it wanting to fly away. It is either this or the meaning that later extended figuratively to become chaperon meaning a protective escort. About 1300 the chaperon began to be worn by putting the hole intended for the face over the top of the head instead and this left the cornette tail and the cape or patte, hanging loose from the top of the head. This became fashionable, and chaperons began to be made to be worn in this style, some authorities only use the term chaperon for this type, calling the earlier forms hoods – which was certainly their usual name in English. This is a categorisation for modern discussions only, there is no dispute over whether chaperon was the contemporary term, see the wearing Colley-Weston-ward of the mandilion for an analogous development in a type of coat. Especially in Italy, the cornette was sometimes dispensed with, leaving just an un-flared tubular patte fixed to the all round
6.
Fashion
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Fashion is a popular style or practice, especially in clothing, footwear, accessories, makeup, body, or furniture. Fashion is a distinctive and often constant trend in the style in which a person dresses and it is the prevailing styles in behaviour and the newest creations of textile designers. Although aspects of fashion can be feminine or masculine, some trends are androgynous, early Western travelers, traveling whether to Persia, Turkey, India, or China, would frequently remark on the absence of change in fashion in the respective places. The Japanese Shoguns secretary bragged to a Spanish visitor in 1609 that Japanese clothing had not changed in over a thousand years, however, there is considerable evidence in Ming China of rapidly changing fashions in Chinese clothing. Changes in costume took place at times of economic or social change, as occurred in ancient Rome. In 8th-century Moorish Spain, the musician Ziryab introduced to Córdoba sophisticated clothing-styles based on seasonal and daily fashions from his native Baghdad, modified by his own inspiration. Similar changes in fashion occurred in the 11th century in the Middle East following the arrival of the Turks, who introduced clothing styles from Central Asia, the beginning in Europe of continual and increasingly rapid change in clothing styles can be fairly reliably dated. This created the distinctive Western outline of a tailored top worn over leggings or trousers, the pace of change accelerated considerably in the following century, and women and mens fashion, especially in the dressing and adorning of the hair, became equally complex. Art historians are able to use fashion with confidence and precision to date images, often to within five years. These national styles remained very different until a counter-movement in the 17th to 18th centuries imposed similar styles once again, in the 16th century, national differences were at their most pronounced. Ten 16th century portraits of German or Italian gentlemen may show ten entirely different hats, albrecht Dürer illustrated the differences in his actual contrast of Nuremberg and Venetian fashions at the close of the 15th century. Though textile colors and patterns changed from year to year, the cut of a gentlemans coat, by 1800, all Western Europeans were dressing alike, local variation became first a sign of provincial culture and later a badge of the conservative peasant. The Haute house was the established by government for the fashion houses that met the standards of industry. Since then, the idea of the designer as a celebrity in his or her own right has become increasingly dominant. The impact of unisex expands more broadly to various themes in fashion including androgyny, mass-market retail. Fashion weeks are held in cities, where designers exhibit their new clothing collections to audiences. Modern Westerners have a number of choices available in the selection of their clothes. What a person chooses to wear can reflect his or her personality or interests, when people who have high cultural status start to wear new or different clothes, a fashion trend may start
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Roman Catholic
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The Catholic Church, also known as the Roman Catholic Church or the Universal Church, is the largest Christian church, with more than 1.28 billion members worldwide. As one of the oldest religious institutions in the world, it has played a prominent role in the history, headed by the Bishop of Rome, known as the Pope, the churchs doctrines are summarised in the Nicene Creed and the Apostles Creed. Its central administration is located in Vatican City, enclaved within Rome, the Catholic Church is notable within Western Christianity for its sacred tradition and seven sacraments. It teaches that it is the one church founded by Jesus Christ, that its bishops are the successors of Christs apostles. The Catholic Church maintains that the doctrine on faith and morals that it declares as definitive is infallible. The Latin Church, the Eastern Catholic Churches, as well as such as mendicant orders and enclosed monastic orders. Among the sacraments, the one is the Eucharist, celebrated liturgically in the Mass. The church teaches that through consecration by a priest the sacrificial bread and wine become the body, the Catholic Church practises closed communion, with only baptised members in a state of grace ordinarily permitted to receive the Eucharist. The Virgin Mary is venerated in the Catholic Church as Queen of Heaven and is honoured in numerous Marian devotions. The Catholic Church has influenced Western philosophy, science, art and culture, Catholic spiritual teaching includes spreading the Gospel while Catholic social teaching emphasises support for the sick, the poor and the afflicted through the corporal and spiritual works of mercy. The Catholic Church is the largest non-government provider of education and medical services in the world, from the late 20th century, the Catholic Church has been criticised for its doctrines on sexuality, its refusal to ordain women and its handling of sexual abuse cases. Catholic was first used to describe the church in the early 2nd century, the first known use of the phrase the catholic church occurred in the letter from Saint Ignatius of Antioch to the Smyrnaeans, written about 110 AD. In the Catechetical Discourses of Saint Cyril of Jerusalem, the name Catholic Church was used to distinguish it from other groups that call themselves the church. The use of the adjective Roman to describe the Church as governed especially by the Bishop of Rome became more widespread after the Fall of the Western Roman Empire and into the Early Middle Ages. Catholic Church is the name used in the Catechism of the Catholic Church. The Catholic Church follows an episcopal polity, led by bishops who have received the sacrament of Holy Orders who are given formal jurisdictions of governance within the church. Ultimately leading the entire Catholic Church is the Bishop of Rome, commonly called the pope, in parallel to the diocesan structure are a variety of religious institutes that function autonomously, often subject only to the authority of the pope, though sometimes subject to the local bishop. Most religious institutes only have male or female members but some have both, additionally, lay members aid many liturgical functions during worship services
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Clergy
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Clergy are some of the main and important formal leaders within certain religions. The roles and functions of clergy vary in different religious traditions but these usually involve presiding over specific rituals, some of the terms used for individual clergy are cleric, clergyman, clergywoman, clergyperson and churchman. In Islam, a leader is often known formally or informally as an imam, mufti. In Jewish tradition, a leader is often a rabbi or hazzan. Cleric comes from the ecclesiastical Latin clericus, for belonging to the priestly class. This is from the Ecclesiastical Greek clericus, meaning appertaining to an inheritance, Clergy is from two Old French words, clergié and clergie, which refer to those with learning and derive from Medieval Latin clericatus, from Late Latin clericus. Clerk, which used to mean one ordained to the ministry, in the Middle Ages, reading and writing were almost exclusively the domain of the priestly class, and this is the reason for the close relationship of these words. Now, the state is tied to reception of the diaconate. Minor Orders are still given in the Eastern Catholic Churches, and it is in this sense that the word entered the Arabic language, most commonly in Lebanon from the French, as kleriki meaning seminarian. This is all in keeping with Eastern Orthodox concepts of clergy, which include those who have not yet received, or do not plan to receive. A priesthood is a body of priests, shamans, or oracles who have religious authority or function. Buddhist clergy are often referred to as the Sangha. This diversity of monastic orders and styles was originally one community founded by Gautama Buddha during the 5th century BC living under a set of rules. The interaction between Buddhism and Tibetan Bon led to a uniquely Tibetan Buddhism, within which various sects, similarly, the interaction between Indian Buddhist monks and Chinese Confucian and Taoist monks from c200-c900AD produced the distinctive Chan Buddhism. In these ways, manual labour was introduced to a practice where monks originally survived on alms, layers of garments were added where originally a single thin robe sufficed and this adaptation of form and roles of Buddhist monastic practice continued after the transmission to Japan. For example, monks took on administrative functions for the Emperor in particular secular communities, again, in response to various historic attempts to suppress Buddhism, the practice of celibacy was relaxed and Japanese monks allowed to marry. This form was then transmitted to Korea, during later Japanese occupation, as these varied styles of Buddhist monasticism are transmitted to Western cultures, still more new forms are being created. This broad difference in approach led to a schism among Buddhist monastics in about the 4th century BCE
