1.
Victoria's Secret
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Victorias Secret is an American designer, manufacturer and marketer of womens premium lingerie, womenswear and beauty products. With 2012 sales of $6.12 billion, it is the largest American retailer of womens lingerie, Victorias Secret is wholly owned by L Brands, a publicly traded company. Victorias Secret was founded by Roy Raymond, and his wife Gaye, in San Francisco, California, eight years prior to founding Victorias Secret, Raymond was embarrassed when purchasing lingerie for his wife at a department store. The companys first store was located in Stanford Shopping Center in Palo Alto, Raymond picked the name Victoria to associate with the refinement of the Victorian era. The Secret was what was hidden underneath the clothes, Victorias Secret grossed $500,000 in its first year of business, enough to finance the expansion from a headquarters and warehouse to four new store locations and a mail-order operation. By 1980, Raymond had added two more San Francisco stores at 2246 Union Street and 115 Wisconsin Street, by 1982, the fourth store was added at 395 Sutter Street. Victorias Secret stayed at that 395 Sutter Street location until 1990, in April 1982, Raymond sent out his 12th catalogue, each catalogue cost $3. Catalogue sales now accounted for 55% of the companys $7 million annual sales, the Victorias Secret stores at this time were a niche player in the underwear market. The business was described as more burlesque than Main Street, raymonds philosophy of focusing on selling lingerie to male customers became increasingly unprofitable and Victorias Secret headed for bankruptcy. In 1982, it had grown to five stores, a 40-page catalogue, Raymond sold Victorias Secret Inc. to Leslie Wexner, creator of Limited Stores Inc of Columbus, Ohio, for $1 million. In 1983, Leslie Wexner revamped Victorias Secret and he discarded the money-losing model of selling lingerie to male customers and replaced it with one that focused on female customers. Victorias Secret transformed from more burlesque than Main Street to a mainstay that sold broadly accepted underwear. The new colors, patterns and styles that promised sexiness packaged in a tasteful, glamorous way and with the appeal of European luxury were supposed to appeal to. The stores were redesigned to evoke 19th century England, from at least 1985 through to 1993, Victorias Secret sold mens underwear. In 1986, four years after the sale, The New York Times commented, in an industry where mark-downs have been the norm, in the five years after the purchase, The Limited had transformed a three store boutique into a 346 store retailer. Howard Gross took over as president from his position as vice-president in 1985, the New York Times reported on Victorias Secrets rapid expansion from four stores in 1982 to 100 in 1986, and analysts expectations that it could expand to 400 by 1988. In 1987, Victorias Secret was reportedly among the best-selling catalogs, in 1990, analysts estimated that sales had quadrupled in four years, making it one of the fastest growing mail-order businesses. The New York Times described it as a visible leader
2.
Atlanta, Georgia
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Atlanta is the capital of and the most populous city in the U. S. state of Georgia, with an estimated 2015 population of 463,878. Atlanta is the cultural and economic center of the Atlanta metropolitan area, home to 5,710,795 people, Atlanta is the county seat of Fulton County, and a small portion of the city extends eastward into DeKalb County. In 1837, Atlanta was founded at the intersection of two lines, and the city rose from the ashes of the American Civil War to become a national center of commerce. Atlantas economy is considered diverse, with dominant sectors that include logistics, professional and business services, media operations, Atlanta has topographic features that include rolling hills and dense tree coverage. Revitalization of Atlantas neighborhoods, initially spurred by the 1996 Olympics in Atlanta, has intensified in the 21st century, altering the demographics, politics. Prior to the arrival of European settlers in north Georgia, Creek Indians inhabited the area, standing Peachtree, a Creek village located where Peachtree Creek flows into the Chattahoochee River, was the closest Indian settlement to what is now Atlanta. As part of the removal of Native Americans from northern Georgia from 1802 to 1825, the Creek ceded the area in 1821. In 1836, the Georgia General Assembly voted to build the Western, the initial route was to run southward from Chattanooga to a terminus east of the Chattahoochee River, which would then be linked to Savannah. After engineers surveyed various possible locations for the terminus, the zero milepost was driven into the ground in what is now Five Points. A year later, the area around the milepost had developed into a settlement, first known as Terminus, and later as Thrasherville after a merchant who built homes. By 1842, the town had six buildings and 30 residents and was renamed Marthasville to honor the Governors daughter, later, J. Edgar Thomson, Chief Engineer of the Georgia Railroad, suggested the town be renamed Atlantica-Pacifica, which was shortened to Atlanta. The residents approved, and the town was incorporated as Atlanta on December 29,1847, by 1860, Atlantas population had grown to 9,554. During the American Civil War, the nexus of multiple railroads in Atlanta made the city a hub for the distribution of military supplies, in 1864, the Union Army moved southward following the capture of Chattanooga and began its invasion of north Georgia. On the next day, Mayor James Calhoun surrendered Atlanta to the Union Army, on November 11,1864, Sherman prepared for the Union Armys March to the Sea by ordering Atlanta to be burned to the ground, sparing only the citys churches and hospitals. After the Civil War ended in 1865, Atlanta was gradually rebuilt, due to the citys superior rail transportation network, the state capital was moved from Milledgeville to Atlanta in 1868. In the 1880 Census, Atlanta surpassed Savannah as Georgias largest city, by 1885, the founding of the Georgia School of Technology and the citys black colleges had established Atlanta as a center for higher education. In 1895, Atlanta hosted the Cotton States and International Exposition, during the first decades of the 20th century, Atlanta experienced a period of unprecedented growth. In three decades time, Atlantas population tripled as the city expanded to include nearby streetcar suburbs
3.
United States
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Forty-eight of the fifty states and the federal district are contiguous and located in North America between Canada and Mexico. The state of Alaska is in the northwest corner of North America, bordered by Canada to the east, the state of Hawaii is an archipelago in the mid-Pacific Ocean. The U. S. territories are scattered about the Pacific Ocean, the geography, climate and wildlife of the country are extremely diverse. At 3.8 million square miles and with over 324 million people, the United States is the worlds third- or fourth-largest country by area, third-largest by land area. It is one of the worlds most ethnically diverse and multicultural nations, paleo-Indians migrated from Asia to the North American mainland at least 15,000 years ago. European colonization began in the 16th century, the United States emerged from 13 British colonies along the East Coast. Numerous disputes between Great Britain and the following the Seven Years War led to the American Revolution. On July 4,1776, during the course of the American Revolutionary War, the war ended in 1783 with recognition of the independence of the United States by Great Britain, representing the first successful war of independence against a European power. The current constitution was adopted in 1788, after the Articles of Confederation, the first ten amendments, collectively named the Bill of Rights, were ratified in 1791 and designed to guarantee many fundamental civil liberties. During the second half of the 19th century, the American Civil War led to the end of slavery in the country. By the end of century, the United States extended into the Pacific Ocean. The Spanish–American War and World War I confirmed the status as a global military power. The end of the Cold War and the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991 left the United States as the sole superpower. The U. S. is a member of the United Nations, World Bank, International Monetary Fund, Organization of American States. The United States is a developed country, with the worlds largest economy by nominal GDP. It ranks highly in several measures of performance, including average wage, human development, per capita GDP. While the U. S. economy is considered post-industrial, characterized by the dominance of services and knowledge economy, the United States is a prominent political and cultural force internationally, and a leader in scientific research and technological innovations. In 1507, the German cartographer Martin Waldseemüller produced a map on which he named the lands of the Western Hemisphere America after the Italian explorer and cartographer Amerigo Vespucci
4.
Model (person)
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A model is a person with a role either to promote, display, or advertise commercial products or to serve as a visual aide for people who are creating works of art or to pose for photography. Modelling is considered to be different from other types of public performance, although the difference between modelling and performing is not always clear, appearing in a film or a play is not generally considered to be modelling. Types of modelling include, fashion, glamour, fitness, bikini, fine art, body-part, Models are featured in a variety of media formats including, books, magazines, films, newspapers, internet and TV. Fashion models are featured in films, reality TV shows. Celebrities, including actors, singers, sports personalities and reality TV stars, modelling as a profession was first established in 1853 by Charles Frederick Worth, the father of haute couture, when he asked his wife, Marie Vernet Worth, to model the clothes he designed. The term house model was coined to describe this type of work, eventually, this became common practice for Parisian fashion houses. There were no standard physical measurement requirements for a model, with the development of fashion photography, the modelling profession expanded to photo modelling. Models remained fairly anonymous, and relatively poorly paid, until the late 1950s, one of the first well-known models was Lisa Fonssagrives, who was very popular in the 1930s. Fonssagrives appeared on over 200 Vogue covers, and her name recognition led to the importance of Vogue in shaping the careers of fashion models. In 1946, Ford Models was established by Eileen and Gerard Ford in New York, one of the most popular models during the 1940s was Jinx Falkenburg who was paid $25 per hour, a large sum at the time. During the 1940s and 1950s, Wilhelmina Cooper, Jean Patchett, Dovima, Dorian Leigh, Suzy Parker, Evelyn Tripp, Carmen DellOrefice, dorothea Church was among the first black models in the industry to gain notoriety in Paris. However, these models were unknown outside the fashion community, compared to todays models, the models of the 1950s were more voluptuous. Wilhelmina Coopers measurements were 38-24-36 whereas Chanel Imans measurements are 32-23-33, in the 1960s, the modelling world began to establish modelling agencies. Throughout Europe, secretarial services acted as models agents charging them weekly rates for their messages, for the most part, models were responsible for their own billing. In Germany, agents were not allowed to work for a percentage of a persons earnings, with the exception of a few models travelling to Paris or New York, travelling was relatively unheard of for a model. Most models only worked in one market due to different labor laws governing modelling in various countries, in the 1960s, Italy had many fashion houses and fashion magazines but was in dire need of models. Italian agencies would often coerce models to return to Italy without work visas by withholding their pay and they would also pay their models in cash, which models would have to hide from customs agents. It was not uncommon for models staying in such as La Louisiana in Paris or the Arena in Milan to have their hotel rooms raided by the police looking for their work visas
5.
Vogue Paris
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The French edition of Vogue magazine, Vogue Paris, is a fashion magazine that has been published since 1920. The French edition of Vogue was first issued on 15 June 1920, more information about French Vogue in the 1920s is available in Mary E. Daviss book Classic Chic, Music, Fashion, and Modernism. Michel de Brunhoff was the magazines editor-in-chief from 1929 until 1954, edmonde Charles-Roux, who had previously worked at Elle and France-Soir, became the magazine’s editor-in-chief in 1954. In August 1956, the magazine issued a special ready-to-wear issue and she left Vogue in 1966, as the result of a conflict for wanting to place a black woman on the cover of the magazine. When later asked about her departure, Charles-Roux refused to confirm or deny this account, francine Crescent, whose editorship would later be described as prescient, daring, and courageous, took the helm of French Vogue in 1968. Under her leadership, the became the global leader in fashion photography. Crescent gave Helmut Newton and Guy Bourdin, the two most influential photographers, complete creative control over their work. At times, Bourdins work was so scandalous that Crescent laid her job on the line to preserve his artistic independence. The two photographers greatly influenced the image of womanhood and were among the first to realize the importance of image, as opposed to product. By the late 1980s, however, Newton and Bourdins star power had faded, colombe Pringle replaced Crescent as the magazines editor-in-chief in 1987. Under Pringle’s watch, the magazine recruited new photographers such as Peter Lindbergh and Steven Meisel, even still, the magazine struggled, remaining dull and heavily reliant on foreign stories. When Pringle left the magazine in 1994, word spread that her resignation had been forced, joan Juliet Buck, an American, was named Pringles successor effective 1 June 1994. Her selection was described by The New York Times as an indication that Conde Nast intended to modernize the magazine, Bucks first two years as editor-in-chief were extremely controversial, many employees resigned or were fired, including the magazines publishing director and most of its top editors. Though rumors circulated in 1996 that the magazine was on the verge of a shutdown, Buck persevered, during her editorship, the magazine’s circulation ultimately increased 40 percent. Buck remade the magazine in her own image, tripling the amount of text in the magazine and devoting special issues to art, music, literature. Juliet Buck announced her decision to leave the magazine in December 2000, the Sydney Morning Herald later compared her departure, which took place during Milans fashion week, to the firing of a football coach during a championship game. Carine Roitfeld, who had been the creative director, was named as Bucks successor the next April. Roitfeld aimed to restore the place as a leader in fashion journalism
6.
Atlanta
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Atlanta is the capital of and the most populous city in the U. S. state of Georgia, with an estimated 2015 population of 463,878. Atlanta is the cultural and economic center of the Atlanta metropolitan area, home to 5,710,795 people, Atlanta is the county seat of Fulton County, and a small portion of the city extends eastward into DeKalb County. In 1837, Atlanta was founded at the intersection of two lines, and the city rose from the ashes of the American Civil War to become a national center of commerce. Atlantas economy is considered diverse, with dominant sectors that include logistics, professional and business services, media operations, Atlanta has topographic features that include rolling hills and dense tree coverage. Revitalization of Atlantas neighborhoods, initially spurred by the 1996 Olympics in Atlanta, has intensified in the 21st century, altering the demographics, politics. Prior to the arrival of European settlers in north Georgia, Creek Indians inhabited the area, standing Peachtree, a Creek village located where Peachtree Creek flows into the Chattahoochee River, was the closest Indian settlement to what is now Atlanta. As part of the removal of Native Americans from northern Georgia from 1802 to 1825, the Creek ceded the area in 1821. In 1836, the Georgia General Assembly voted to build the Western, the initial route was to run southward from Chattanooga to a terminus east of the Chattahoochee River, which would then be linked to Savannah. After engineers surveyed various possible locations for the terminus, the zero milepost was driven into the ground in what is now Five Points. A year later, the area around the milepost had developed into a settlement, first known as Terminus, and later as Thrasherville after a merchant who built homes. By 1842, the town had six buildings and 30 residents and was renamed Marthasville to honor the Governors daughter, later, J. Edgar Thomson, Chief Engineer of the Georgia Railroad, suggested the town be renamed Atlantica-Pacifica, which was shortened to Atlanta. The residents approved, and the town was incorporated as Atlanta on December 29,1847, by 1860, Atlantas population had grown to 9,554. During the American Civil War, the nexus of multiple railroads in Atlanta made the city a hub for the distribution of military supplies, in 1864, the Union Army moved southward following the capture of Chattanooga and began its invasion of north Georgia. On the next day, Mayor James Calhoun surrendered Atlanta to the Union Army, on November 11,1864, Sherman prepared for the Union Armys March to the Sea by ordering Atlanta to be burned to the ground, sparing only the citys churches and hospitals. After the Civil War ended in 1865, Atlanta was gradually rebuilt, due to the citys superior rail transportation network, the state capital was moved from Milledgeville to Atlanta in 1868. In the 1880 Census, Atlanta surpassed Savannah as Georgias largest city, by 1885, the founding of the Georgia School of Technology and the citys black colleges had established Atlanta as a center for higher education. In 1895, Atlanta hosted the Cotton States and International Exposition, during the first decades of the 20th century, Atlanta experienced a period of unprecedented growth. In three decades time, Atlantas population tripled as the city expanded to include nearby streetcar suburbs
7.
Georgia (U.S. state)
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Georgia is a state in the southeastern United States. It was established in 1733, the last of the original Thirteen Colonies, named after King George II of Great Britain, Georgia was the fourth state to ratify the United States Constitution, on January 2,1788. It declared its secession from the Union on January 19,1861 and it was the last state to be restored to the Union, on July 15,1870. Georgia is the 24th largest and the 8th most populous of the 50 United States, from 2007 to 2008,14 of Georgias counties ranked among the nations 100 fastest-growing, second only to Texas. Georgia is known as the Peach State and the Empire State of the South, Atlanta is the states capital, its most populous city and has been named a global city. Georgia is bordered to the south by Florida, to the east by the Atlantic Ocean and South Carolina, to the west by Alabama, the states northern part is in the Blue Ridge Mountains, part of the Appalachian Mountains system. Georgias highest point is Brasstown Bald at 4,784 feet above sea level, Georgia is the largest state entirely east of the Mississippi River in land area. Before settlement by Europeans, Georgia was inhabited by the mound building cultures, the British colony of Georgia was founded by James Oglethorpe on February 12,1733. The colony was administered by the Trustees for the Establishment of the Colony of Georgia in America under a charter issued by King George II. The Trustees implemented a plan for the colonys settlement, known as the Oglethorpe Plan. In 1742 the colony was invaded by the Spanish during the War of Jenkins Ear, in 1752, after the government failed to renew subsidies that had helped support the colony, the Trustees turned over control to the crown. Georgia became a colony, with a governor appointed by the king. The Province of Georgia was one of the Thirteen Colonies that revolted against British rule in the American Revolution by signing the 1776 Declaration of Independence, the State of Georgias first constitution was ratified in February 1777. Georgia was the 10th state to ratify the Articles of Confederation on July 24,1778, in 1829, gold was discovered in the North Georgia mountains, which led to the Georgia Gold Rush and an established federal mint in Dahlonega, which continued its operation until 1861. The subsequent influx of white settlers put pressure on the government to land from the Cherokee Nation. In 1830, President Andrew Jackson signed the Indian Removal Act into law, sending many eastern Native American nations to reservations in present-day Oklahoma, including all of Georgias tribes. Despite the Supreme Courts ruling in Worcester v. Georgia that ruled U. S. states were not permitted to redraw the Indian boundaries, President Jackson and the state of Georgia ignored the ruling. In 1838, his successor, Martin Van Buren, dispatched troops to gather the Cherokee
8.
Los Angeles
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Los Angeles, officially the City of Los Angeles and often known by its initials L. A. is the cultural, financial, and commercial center of Southern California. With a census-estimated 2015 population of 3,971,883, it is the second-most populous city in the United States, Los Angeles is also the seat of Los Angeles County, the most populated county in the United States. The citys inhabitants are referred to as Angelenos, historically home to the Chumash and Tongva, Los Angeles was claimed by Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo for Spain in 1542 along with the rest of what would become Alta California. The city was founded on September 4,1781, by Spanish governor Felipe de Neve. It became a part of Mexico in 1821 following the Mexican War of Independence, in 1848, at the end of the Mexican–American War, Los Angeles and the rest of California were purchased as part of the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, thereby becoming part of the United States. Los Angeles was incorporated as a municipality on April 4,1850, the discovery of oil in the 1890s brought rapid growth to the city. The completion of the Los Angeles Aqueduct in 1913, delivering water from Eastern California, nicknamed the City of Angels, Los Angeles is known for its Mediterranean climate, ethnic diversity, and sprawling metropolis. Los Angeles also has an economy in culture, media, fashion, science, sports, technology, education, medicine. A global city, it has been ranked 6th in the Global Cities Index, the city is home to renowned institutions covering a broad range of professional and cultural fields, and is one of the most substantial economic engines within the United States. The Los Angeles combined statistical area has a gross metropolitan product of $831 billion, making it the third-largest in the world, after the Greater Tokyo and New York metropolitan areas. The city has hosted the Summer Olympic Games in 1932 and 1984 and is bidding to host the 2024 Summer Olympics and thus become the second city after London to have hosted the Games three times. The Los Angeles area also hosted the 1994 FIFA mens World Cup final match as well as the 1999 FIFA womens World Cup final match, the mens event was watched on television by over 700 million people worldwide. The Los Angeles coastal area was first settled by the Tongva, a Gabrielino settlement in the area was called iyáangẚ, meaning poison oak place. Gaspar de Portolà and Franciscan missionary Juan Crespí, reached the present site of Los Angeles on August 2,1769, in 1771, Franciscan friar Junípero Serra directed the building of the Mission San Gabriel Arcángel, the first mission in the area. The Queen of the Angels is an honorific of the Virgin Mary, two-thirds of the settlers were mestizo or mulatto with a mixture of African, indigenous and European ancestry. The settlement remained a small town for decades, but by 1820. Today, the pueblo is commemorated in the district of Los Angeles Pueblo Plaza and Olvera Street. New Spain achieved its independence from the Spanish Empire in 1821, during Mexican rule, Governor Pío Pico made Los Angeles Alta Californias regional capital
9.
California
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California is the most populous state in the United States and the third most extensive by area. Located on the western coast of the U. S, California is bordered by the other U. S. states of Oregon, Nevada, and Arizona and shares an international border with the Mexican state of Baja California. Los Angeles is Californias most populous city, and the second largest after New York City. The Los Angeles Area and the San Francisco Bay Area are the nations second- and fifth-most populous urban regions, California also has the nations most populous county, Los Angeles County, and its largest county by area, San Bernardino County. The Central Valley, an agricultural area, dominates the states center. What is now California was first settled by various Native American tribes before being explored by a number of European expeditions during the 16th and 17th centuries, the Spanish Empire then claimed it as part of Alta California in their New Spain colony. The area became a part of Mexico in 1821 following its war for independence. The western portion of Alta California then was organized as the State of California, the California Gold Rush starting in 1848 led to dramatic social and demographic changes, with large-scale emigration from the east and abroad with an accompanying economic boom. If it were a country, California would be the 6th largest economy in the world, fifty-eight percent of the states economy is centered on finance, government, real estate services, technology, and professional, scientific and technical business services. Although it accounts for only 1.5 percent of the states economy, the story of Calafia is recorded in a 1510 work The Adventures of Esplandián, written as a sequel to Amadis de Gaula by Spanish adventure writer Garci Rodríguez de Montalvo. The kingdom of Queen Calafia, according to Montalvo, was said to be a land inhabited by griffins and other strange beasts. This conventional wisdom that California was an island, with maps drawn to reflect this belief, shortened forms of the states name include CA, Cal. Calif. and US-CA. Settled by successive waves of arrivals during the last 10,000 years, various estimates of the native population range from 100,000 to 300,000. The Indigenous peoples of California included more than 70 distinct groups of Native Americans, ranging from large, settled populations living on the coast to groups in the interior. California groups also were diverse in their organization with bands, tribes, villages. Trade, intermarriage and military alliances fostered many social and economic relationships among the diverse groups, the first European effort to explore the coast as far north as the Russian River was a Spanish sailing expedition, led by Portuguese captain Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo, in 1542. Some 37 years later English explorer Francis Drake also explored and claimed a portion of the California coast in 1579. Spanish traders made unintended visits with the Manila galleons on their trips from the Philippines beginning in 1565
10.
Koreans
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Koreans are an ethnic group native to the whole Korean Peninsula and southeastern Manchuria. Over the course of the 20th century, significant Korean communities have emerged in Australia, Canada, United States and, to a lesser extent, as of 2013, there were an estimated 7.4 million ethnic Korean expatriates around the planet. South Koreans refer to themselves as Hanguk-in, or Hanguk-saram, both of which mean Korean nation people, when referring to members of the Korean diaspora, Koreans often use the term Han-in. North Koreans refer to themselves as Joseon-in or Joseon-saram, both of which literally mean Joseon people, using similar words, Koreans in China refer to themselves as Chaoxianzu in Chinese or Joseonjok in Korean, which are cognates that literally mean Joseon ethnic group. Ethnic Koreans living in Russia and Central Asia refer to themselves as Koryo-saram, alluding to Goryeo, Koreans are the descendants of the peoples that migrated for over 13. 000-7.000 years from Southeast Asia and todays Russian Far East into the Korean Peninsula and southern Manchuria. Later Chinese and other, often said to be Siberian or paleo-Asian tribes migrated into parts of Korea, archaeological evidence suggests that most of the later arriving tribes were migrants from south-central Siberia. During the Four Commanderies of Han some Chinese clans migrated to northern Korea, susumu Ōno, Ki-Moon Lee and Choong-Soon Kim suspect that proto-Dravidian people migrated to Korea and parts of Japan. Susumu Ōno suggest also an Austronesian immigration into the Korean peninsula, the largest concentration of dolmens in the world is found on the Korean Peninsula. In fact, with an estimated 35, 000-100,000 dolmen, Korean males also exhibit a moderate frequency of Haplogroup C-M217. About 2% of Korean males belong to Haplogroup D-M174, the D1b-M55 subclade has been found with maximal frequency in a small sample of the Ainu people of Japan, and is generally frequent throughout the Japanese Archipelago. Haplogroup D4 is the modal haplogroup among Koreans and among Northeast Asians in general. Haplogroup B, which very frequently in many populations of Southeast Asia, Polynesia. Haplogroup A has been detected in approximately 7% to 15% of Koreans, Haplogroup A is the most common mtDNA haplogroup among the Chukchi, Eskimo, Na-Dene, and many Amerind ethnic groups of North and Central America. The language of the Korean people is the Korean language, which uses Hangul as its writing system with some Hanja. There are more than 78 million speakers of the Korean language worldwide, estimating the size, growth rate, sex ratio, and age structure of North Koreas population has been extremely difficult. Until release of data in 1989, the 1963 edition of the North Korea Central Yearbook was the last official publication to disclose population figures. After 1963 demographers used varying methods to estimate the population, thus, on the basis of remarks made by President Kim Il-sung in 1977 concerning school attendance, the population that year was calculated at 17.2 million persons. During the 1980s, health statistics, including life expectancy and causes of mortality, were made available to the outside world
11.
African Americans
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African Americans are an ethnic group of Americans with total or partial ancestry from any of the Black racial groups of Africa. The term may also be used to only those individuals who are descended from enslaved Africans. As a compound adjective the term is usually hyphenated as African-American, Black and African Americans constitute the third largest racial and ethnic group in the United States. Most African Americans are of West and Central African descent and are descendants of enslaved peoples within the boundaries of the present United States. On average, African Americans are of 73. 2–80. 9% West African, 18–24% European, according to US Census Bureau data, African immigrants generally do not self-identify as African American. The overwhelming majority of African immigrants identify instead with their own respective ethnicities, immigrants from some Caribbean, Central American and South American nations and their descendants may or may not also self-identify with the term. After the founding of the United States, black people continued to be enslaved, believed to be inferior to white people, they were treated as second-class citizens. The Naturalization Act of 1790 limited U. S. citizenship to whites only, in 2008, Barack Obama became the first African American to be elected President of the United States. The first African slaves arrived via Santo Domingo to the San Miguel de Gualdape colony, the ill-fated colony was almost immediately disrupted by a fight over leadership, during which the slaves revolted and fled the colony to seek refuge among local Native Americans. De Ayllón and many of the colonists died shortly afterwards of an epidemic, the settlers and the slaves who had not escaped returned to Haiti, whence they had come. The first recorded Africans in British North America were 20 and odd negroes who came to Jamestown, as English settlers died from harsh conditions, more and more Africans were brought to work as laborers. Typically, young men or women would sign a contract of indenture in exchange for transportation to the New World, the landowner received 50 acres of land from the state for each servant purchased from a ships captain. An indentured servant would work for years without wages. The status of indentured servants in early Virginia and Maryland was similar to slavery, servants could be bought, sold, or leased and they could be physically beaten for disobedience or running away. Africans could legally raise crops and cattle to purchase their freedom and they raised families, married other Africans and sometimes intermarried with Native Americans or English settlers. By the 1640s and 1650s, several African families owned farms around Jamestown and some became wealthy by colonial standards and purchased indentured servants of their own. In 1640, the Virginia General Court recorded the earliest documentation of slavery when they sentenced John Punch. One of Dutch African arrivals, Anthony Johnson, would own one of the first black slaves, John Casor
12.
Christian Dior
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Christian Dior was a French fashion designer, best known as the founder of one of the worlds top fashion houses, also called Christian Dior, which is now owned by Groupe Arnault. Christian Dior was born in Granville, a town on the coast of Normandy. He was the second of five born to Maurice Dior, a wealthy fertilizer manufacturer. He had four siblings, Raymond, Jacqueline, Bernard, when Christian was about five years old, the family moved to Paris, but still returned to the Normandy coast for summer holidays. Diors family had hoped he would become a diplomat, but Dior was artistic, to make money, he sold his fashion sketches outside his house for about 10 cents each. In 1928, Dior left school and received money from his father to finance a small art gallery, where he, from 1937, Dior was employed by the fashion designer Robert Piguet, who gave him the opportunity to design for three Piguet collections. Dior would later say that Robert Piguet taught me the virtues of simplicity through which true elegance must come, one of his original designs for Piguet, a day dress with a short, full skirt called Cafe Anglais, was particularly well received. Whilst at Piguet, Dior worked alongside Pierre Balmain, and was succeeded as house designer by Marc Bohan – who would, in 1960, Dior left Piguet when he was called up for military service. In 1942, when Dior left the army, he joined the house of Lucien Lelong. In 1946 Marcel Boussac, an entrepreneur known as the richest man in France, invited Dior to design for Philippe et Gaston. Dior refused, wishing to make a fresh start under his own rather than reviving an old brand. On 8 December 1946, with Boussacs backing, Dior founded his fashion house. The actual name of the line of his first collection, presented on 12 February 1947, was Corolle, but the phrase New Look was coined for it by Carmel Snow, the editor-in-chief of Harpers Bazaar. Diors designs were more voluptuous than the boxy, fabric-conserving shapes of the recent World War II styles and he was a master at creating shapes and silhouettes, Dior is quoted as saying I have designed flower women. Initially, women protested because his designs covered up their legs, there was also some backlash to Diors designs due to the amount of fabrics used in a single dress or suit. During one photo shoot in a Paris market, the models were attacked by female vendors over this profligacy, the New Look revolutionized womens dress and reestablished Paris as the centre of the fashion world after World War II. Christian Dior died while on holiday in Montecatini, Italy on 24 October 1957, some reports say that he died of a heart attack after choking on a fish bone. Times obituary stated that he died of an attack after playing a game of cards
13.
Haute couture
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Haute couture is the creation of exclusive custom-fitted clothing. A haute couture garment is made for a client, tailored specifically for the wearers measurements. Considering the amount of time, money, and skill allotted to each completed piece, haute couture garments are described as having no price tag. The term originally referred to Englishman Charles Frederick Worths work, produced in Paris in the mid-nineteenth century, in modern France, haute couture is a protected name that may not be used except by firms that meet certain well-defined standards. However, the term is used loosely to describe all high-fashion custom-fitted clothing whether it is produced in Paris or in other fashion capitals such as London, Milan. In either case, the term can refer to the houses or fashion designers that create exclusive. In France, the haute couture is protected by law and is defined by the Chambre de commerce et dindustrie de Paris based in Paris. The chambre syndicale de la haute couture is defined as the commission that determines which fashion houses are eligible to be true haute couture houses. Formation of the organization was brought about by Charles Frederick Worth, an affiliated school was organized in 1930 called LEcole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture. The school helps bring new designers to help the couture houses that are present today. Since 1975, this organization has worked within the Federation Francaise, de couture, more rigorous criteria for haute couture were established in 1945. g. With that of prêt-à-porter in the public perception, almost every haute couture house also markets prêt-à-porter collections, which typically deliver a higher return on investment than their custom clothing. Falling revenues have forced a few houses to abandon their less profitable haute couture division. These houses are no longer considered haute couture houses by the original, legal usage of the term. Many top designer fashion houses such as Chanel use the word for some of their special collections, as well, the term haute couture has taken on further popular meanings referring to non-dressmaking activities, such as production of fine art, music, etc. Haute couture can be referenced back as early as the 17th Century, rose Bertin, the French fashion designer to Queen Marie Antoinette, can be credited for bringing fashion and haute couture to French culture. Visitors to Paris brought back clothing that was copied by local dressmakers. Stylish women also ordered fashion d dressed in the latest Parisian fashion to serve as models, as railroads and steamships made European travel easier, it was increasingly common for wealthy women to travel to Paris to shop for clothing and accessories
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Ford Models Supermodel of the World
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Supermodel of the World is an international modeling contest established by Eileen Ford in 1980. The contest showcases young fashion model entrants from over 50 countries in order to new talent for the fashion industry. The winner of the final event receives a $250,000 modeling contract with Ford Models. The two runners up receive contracts of $150,000 and $100,000 respectively, no event was held in 2003
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Allure (magazine)
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Allure is an American women’s beauty magazine, published monthly by Conde Nast in New York City. It was founded in 1991 by Linda Wells, michelle Lee replaced Wells in 2015. A signature of the magazine is its annual Best of Beauty awards—accolades given in the October issue to beauty products deemed the best by magazine staff. In 1990, S. I. Newhouse Jr. chairman of Condé Nast, at the time, Wells was the beauty editor and the food editor at The New York Times Magazine. The magazine’s prototype was shredded shortly before the launch date and, after overhauling everything. The magazine’s original format was oversize, but this prevented it from fitting into slots at grocery-store checkouts, after four issues, Allure changed to a standard-size glossy format. Allure focuses on beauty, fashion, and women’s health, Allure was the first women’s magazine to write about the health risks associated with silicone breast implants, and has reported on other controversial health issues. The magazine’s circulation, initially 250,000 in 1991, is over 1 million as of 2011, many writers have contributed to Allure. Among them are Arthur Miller, John Updike, Jhumpa Lahiri, Michael Chabon, Kathryn Harrison, Frank McCourt, Isabel Allende, elizabeth Gilbert’s essay “The Road to Rapture, ” published in Allure in 2003, was the precursor to her memoir, Eat, Pray, Love. Photographers who have shot for Allure include Michael Thompson, Mario Testino, Patrick Demarchelier, Tina Barney, Marilyn Minter, Carter Smith, Steven Klein, Steven Meisel, and Helmut Newton. Allure began its Best of Beauty awards program in the mid-1990s, at the initiative of Wells, to help choose among the vast array of makeup, skin-care. Allure has two sets of awards, one judged by the editors and the other by readers. A “winners’ seal” logo, developed by Allure, appears on many of the winning products, to ensure that its judgments are neutral, Allures ad department isn’t involved in the selections. In 2010, the magazine developed an app that highlights the winning products. There was an outrage when the magazine showed Marissa Neitling with an Afro haircut, the magazine has been on Adweek’s Hot List in 1993,1994,1995,2003, and 2007. Allure has received 29 awards from the American Academy of Dermatology,9 journalism awards from the Fragrance Foundation, the Achiever Award from Cosmetic Executive Women The Matrix Award for magazine leadership from New York Women in Communications, Inc. Wells, along with Allure editors Michael Carl and Kelly Atterton, have appeared as judges on the Bravo TV series Shear Genius, Allure editors have appeared as experts on programs such as the Today show and 60 Minutes, and Allure stories frequently receive national attention. Hilary Duff played an Allure intern in Cheaper by the Dozen 2
16.
V (American magazine)
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V magazine is an American fashion magazine published since 1999. The magazine is printed seasonally and highlights trends in fashion, film, music, a mens fashion quarterly entitled VMAN started as an offshoot in 2003. V magazine was launched in September 1999 as the younger sibling publication to the limited-edition quarterly Visionaire, if Visionaire was seen as more of an exclusive haute-couture book, V was going to be the vibrant, less formal, more accessible, ready-to-wear alternative. V releases four issues a year, one for each current seasonal collection, Spring Preview, Fall Preview, Winter Preview, the magazine has a readership of 315,000 as of 2010. V is edited by Stephen Gan and features new American fashion displayed through shoots and editorials focusing more specifically on art, film, music, V has been noted for its inventive and progressive styling, as well as its reportage of cultural figures and global youth culture. Past contributors have included Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, Hedi Slimane, Mario Testino, Mario Sorrenti, interview subjects have included Joan Didion, Salman Rushdie, Robert Altman, Brooke Shields, and Norman Mailer. Icons in fashion, film, music and art to grace the cover include Madonna, Katy Perry, Mariah Carey, Rihanna, Naomi Campbell, Grace Jones, Brad Pitt, Britney Spears, David Bowie and Lady Gaga. In 2005, 7L and Steidl published the book V Best, Five Years of V Magazine, included are popular and successful fashion articles, photos, interviews and more from the first five years of V. In 2016, Lady Gaga was invited to be the guest editor for V for its 99th issue, in March 2016, it was revealed that Britney Spears was selected to appear on the cover of the magazine for its 100th issue. Spears shot three different covers for the issue with photographer Mario Testino. The January 2010 issue of V magazine entitled The Size Issue featured a variety of plus sized models and this edition printed two different covers, one with plus sized Precious star Gabourey Sidibe, while the other featured the petite actress Dakota Fanning. One criticism of the issue argues that the intentions were to juxtapose big. However, others embraced the magazines bold statement and commended V on its efforts to modernize the beauty standard, in 2005, 7L and Steidl published the book V Best, Five Years of V Magazine, chronicling the first five years of the publication. In the September 2008 issue of American Photo Magazine, V magazine photographer Nick Knight was featured for the photo spread Wildflowers that he shot for the March 2008 issue of V. The V Magazine website consists of multiple different navigational links such as, blog, magazine, fashion, articles, photo, the website contains features from the current issue as well as extras and exclusive outtakes that did not get put into the final printing of the magazine. Other interactive technological features on V’s website include the magazines Twitter stream, blog, VMAN magazine featuring mens clothing is an offshoot of V magazine. Established in 2003, it is published quarterly by Visionaire Publishing, also responsible for V, VMAN promotes everyone from unknown up-and-comers to globally recognized celebrities. The magazines target audience caters to the modern, urbanized man interested in whats new in fashion, art, music, travel, list of V magazine cover models V magazine VMAN magazine V-Agency
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Pop (fashion magazine)
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Pop is a British fashion magazine co-founded in 2000 by Ashley Heath and editor Katie Grand. The initial creative directors for the magazine were Lee Swillingham and Stuart Spalding, at the same time Emap offered her a position as Editor-in- Chief of an as-yet unnamed new magazine. The first issue of Pop was launched in September 2000, Grand said that her main concept was that it to be really jolly. And pink — I was obsessed with it being pink, Grand left Pop in 2008, along with creative directors Swillingham and Spalding, to establish a rival magazine, Love, published by Conde Nast. Pop relaunched in a digital format as THEPOP. COM. Dasha Zhukova was hired as editor-in-chief with Ashley Heath as the Editorial Director, on 1 September 2010 Britney Spears graced the cover of the magazine for her first time
18.
Vanity Fair (magazine)
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Vanity Fair is a magazine of popular culture, fashion, and current affairs published by Condé Nast in the United States. The first version of Vanity Fair was published from 1913 to 1936, the imprint was revived in 1983, and came to include four European editions of the magazine. The current editor is Graydon Carter, Condé Montrose Nast began his empire by purchasing the mens fashion magazine Dress in 1913. He renamed the magazine Dress and Vanity Fair and published four issues in 1913 and it continued to thrive into the twenties. However, it became a casualty of the Great Depression and declining advertising revenues, although its circulation, Condé Nast announced in December 1935 that Vanity Fair would be folded into Vogue as of the March 1936 issue. Condé Nast Publications, under the ownership of S. I. Newhouse, the first issue was released in February 1983, edited by Richard Locke, formerly of The New York Times Book Review. After three issues, Locke was replaced by Leo Lerman, veteran features editor of Vogue and he was followed by editors Tina Brown and Graydon Carter. Regular writers columnists have included Dominick Dunne, Sebastian Junger, Michael Wolff, Maureen Orth and Christopher Hitchens. Amongst the most famous of these was the August 1991 Leibovitz cover featuring a naked, pregnant Demi Moore, in addition to its controversial photography, the magazine also prints articles on a variety of topics. In 1996, journalist Marie Brenner wrote an exposé on the tobacco industry titled The Man Who Knew Too Much, the article was later adapted into a movie The Insider, which starred Al Pacino and Russell Crowe. S. The magazine also features interviews with celebrities, including a monthly Proust Questionnaire. The magazine was the subject of Toby Youngs book, How to Lose Friends and Alienate People, about his search for success, from 1995, the book has been made into a movie, with Jeff Bridges playing Carter. There are currently five international editions of Vanity Fair being published, namely in the United Kingdom, Spain, France, Italy, the British Vanity Fair was first published in 1991. The Italian Vanity Fair was established in October 2003 and celebrated its 10th anniversary in 2013, Vanity Fair Germany launched in February 2007 at a cost of €50 million, then the most expensive new magazine in Germany in years and Condé Nasts biggest investment outside the United States. After circulation had plummeted from half a million to less than 200,000 per week, a French version started in June 2013. The Spanish version of the magazine was first published in Spain in 2008, in April 2015 Condé Nast México y Latinoamerica was to launch Vanity Fair Mexico. As a successor to a similar invitation-only event annually held by the late agent Irving Paul Lazar, during its first years, the magazines Oscar party was co-hosted by producer Steve Tisch at Mortons in West Hollywood. At first, editor Graydon Carter kept the invitation list small, between 2009 and 2013, the party was held at Sunset Tower
19.
Teen Vogue
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Teen Vogue is a US magazine which was launched in 2004 as a sister publication to Vogue, targeted at teenage girls. Like Vogue, it includes stories about fashion and celebrities, since 2015, the magazine has moved its focus away from shopping and fashion features into more topical content, including politics and current affairs. Teen Vogue was established in 2003, as a spinoff of Vogue, the magazine is published in a smaller 6¾x9 format to afford it more visibility on shelves and some flexibility getting into a digest size slot at checkout stands. In May 2016, Elaine Welteroth was appointed as editor, replacing the founding editor-in-chief Amy Astley and her appointment at 29 saw her become the youngest editor-in-chief in Condé Nasts history, and the second African-American. She works closely with digital editorial director Phillip Picardi and creative director Marie Suter, in November 2016, it was announced Teen Vogue would start publishing quarterly, following the Dec/Jan 2017 issue. In December 2016, the published an opinion article by Lauren Duca. List of Teen Vogue cover models Official website Teen Vogue – magazine profile at Fashion Model Directory
20.
Karlie Kloss
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Karlie Elizabeth Kloss is an American fashion model. Vogue Paris declared her one of the top 30 models of the 2000s and she was a Victorias Secret Angel from 2011 to 2014. Kloss was born in Chicago, Illinois and she is the daughter of Tracy, a freelance art director, and Kurt Kloss, an emergency physician. Her family has Danish and German roots and she has three sisters, Kristine, and twins Kimberly and Kariann. She moved to St. Louis, with her family, in 1994, Kloss has called her classical ballet training a beautiful thing that taught her how to move in the modeling world and was a great training ground for her runway walk. Kloss was discovered at a local benefit runway show, Elite Chicago then forwarded these tear sheets to Elite NY, who then brought Kloss to New York. One of her first modelling stints was for Abercrombie kids when she posed for the brands photography shot by Bruce Weber, in January 2008 she left Elite and signed with NEXT Model Management. She ended up walking 31 runways in New York Fashion Week notably, closing for Marc Jacobs, opening Carolina Herrera, after New York, she walked 20 shows in Milan, and 13 in Paris for the fall 2008 collections, with 64 shows in a single season. Elite felt they were responsible for launching her career and booked much work for her, the case was eventually settled out of court. After four years of being represented by Next Model Management, Kloss is now signed with IMG Models, Kloss, labeled her famed runway walk a moody gait. Molly Sims, whom she considers a mentor, told New York she thinks Kloss will still do well at 30 because of her classic look, Kloss is the face of the Marc Jacobs fragrance Lola. She has ventured into TV when she appeared in Season Four, in the spring/summer 2011 season, she opened ten shows and closed eight. Her runway walk, one of the most unusual, is described as powerful. In February 2011, supermodel Tyra Banks stated that Kloss was one of her favorite models because of her unique, in 2011, Kloss renewed her contract with Christian Dior for the third season in a row. Life magazine photographed Kloss for the cover of a print issue handed out during New York Fashion Week in September 2011. The photo story inside the issue was photographed during the summer of 2011 and shows Kloss at the shows in Paris, in New York City. The same year, she made her debut in the Victorias Secret Fashion Show, in 2012, Kloss was featured on the September covers of British Vogue, Japanese Vogue, Harpers Bazaar Russia, and Numéro. She appeared in the ads of Juicy Couture, Stefanel, Elie Saab
21.
Patrick Demarchelier
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Patrick Demarchelier is a French fashion photographer. Born near Paris in 1943 to a modest family, he spent his childhood in Le Havre with his mother, for his seventeenth birthday, his stepfather bought him his first Eastman Kodak camera. Demarchelier learned how to film, retouch negatives and began photographing friends. In 1975, he left Paris for New York City to follow his girlfriend and he discovered fashion photography by working as a freelance photographer and learning and working with photographers such as Henri Cartier-Bresson, Terry King, and Jacque Guilbert. His work drew the attention of Elle, Marie Claire and 20 Ans Magazine and he later worked for Vogue and Harpers Bazaar, first in September 1992 which resulted in a 12-year collaboration. Demarchelier has lived in New York City since 1975 and he is married to Mia and they have twins. Since the late 1970s he has shot the covers for nearly every fashion magazine including American, British. He has also shot covers for Rolling Stone, Glamour, Life, Newsweek and he was also the primary photographer for the book On Your Own, a beauty/lifestyle guide written for young women by Brooke Shields. Since 1992 he has worked with Harpers Bazaar, becoming its premier photographer, Demarchelier was awarded the contract for the 2005 Pirelli Calendar. Over the years he has helped the careers of many artists like Laura Mercier, Jason Marks. Demarchelier is referenced in the 2006 film The Devil Wears Prada, the first assistant Emily calmly jumps into action and calls his office, replying, I have Patrick. He also appears in the documentary The September Issue which is about Anna Wintour and he was called to do last-minute photographs for Grace Coddington after Edward Enninful were not sufficient. Demarchelier appeared in a cameo in the version of Sex. He was featured prominently in the episode of Cycle 15 of Americas Next Top Model. He was listed as one of the fifty best-dressed over 50s by The Guardian in March 2013, in 2007, Christine Albanel, French Minister of Culture, honored Demarchelier as an Officer in lordre des Arts et des Lettres. Official website Demarchelier at Luminous Lint Some of his most famous photographs Christy Turlington New York 1992 Nadja Auermann Paris 1994 Nadja New York 1995
22.
Jourdan Dunn
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Jourdan Sherise Dunn is an English fashion model. She was discovered in Hammersmith Primark in 2006 and signed to Storm Model Management in London shortly thereafter and she began appearing on international runways in early 2007. In February 2008, she was the first black model to walk a Prada runway in over a decade, in April 2014, it was announced that Dunn was signed as the new face of Maybelline New York. As of July 2014, she was declared an icon by models. com, in 2014, Forbes listed Dunn in their top-earning models list, estimated to have earned $4 million in one year. She was the first black British model to make the list and she appeared on the February cover of British Vogue in 2015, becoming the first solo black model to grace the cover in 12 years. Dunn is a part of an elite group of modern day models considered to be this generations supermodels. Jourdan Dunn was born in the West London suburb of Greenford, where she grew up with her mother, a receptionist of Jamaican heritage and she admitted to being self-conscious as a teenager, due to her height and weight. She stated growing up, people would tell her she should become a model. She commented that shows like Americas Next Top Model intrigued her, in early 2006, at the age of 15, she was scouted by an agent from Storm Model Management, while accompanying a friend in a London Primark. At the age of 16, Dunn made her debut in the New York shows in the autumn of 2007, walking in shows for Marc Jacobs and Polo Ralph Lauren. Soon after, she rose to prominence within the industry. In 2007, she was featured on British Vogue as a new star and she also walked 75 shows during the spring/summer 2008 season, including Louis Vuitton and Valentino. Dunn has since become a fixture on runways, having walked for the industrys biggest designers. She was often distinguished for being the black model in shows. She has garnered attention for her legs and for her walk which she says she practises frequently with very tall heels, in July 2008, Steven Meisel selected Dunn to appear on the cover of the Vogue Italia issue devoted entirely to black models. The issue sparked controversy as Dunn, who was 18 at the time, teen Vogue faced backlash from the media, who accused them of glorifying teenage pregnancy. She continued to model until she was six months pregnant and couldnt fit into any of the clothes, notably walking the catwalk for the Spring 2010 Jean Paul Gaultier show, with a baby bump. At the age of 19, ten weeks after giving birth, I think he pushed me in the right direction
23.
Elle (magazine)
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Elle is a worldwide lifestyle magazine of French origin that focuses on fashion, beauty, health, and entertainment. Elle is also the worlds best-selling fashion magazine and it was founded by Pierre Lazareff and his wife Hélène Gordon in 1945. The title, in French, means she or her, Elle was founded in France in 1945. In the 1960s, it was considered to not so much reflect fashion as decree it, with 800,000 loyal readers, in 1981, Daniel Filipacchi and Jean-Luc Lagardère purchased Hachette magazines, which included the then-struggling Elle. Elle was then launched in the U. S, the Chinese version of the magazine was published in 1988, and is the only edition which is published twice monthly. In 2007 the website of Elle was launched, among its past editors is Jean-Dominique Bauby, who became known for writing a book after suffering almost total paralysis. Elle is the worlds largest fashion magazine, with 43 international editions in over 60 countries, technologically speaking, the Elle brand is a global network encompassing over 33 websites. Subscriptions account for 73 percent of readers, there are 33 Elle websites globally, which collectively attract over 25 million unique visitors and 370 million page views per month. The magazine reaches over 69 million readers, the vast majority of Elles audience are women between the ages of 18 and 49. Its readers have an age of 34.7 years. Forty percent of the readers are single, and the household income is $69,973. Our readers are young enough to think about life as an adventure and old enough to have the means to live it, said Roberta Myers, the first international edition of Elle was launched in Japan in 1969. Then, its U. S. and UK editions were launched in 1985, next year, the magazine was first published in Spain. In 1987, Elle began to be published in Hong Kong, in 1988, the magazine was launched in six countries, namely Germany, Brazil, China, Sweden, Greece and Portugal. Next year it was first published in the Netherlands and Quebec, in 1990, the magazine was started in Australia and Taiwan. Its Russian edition, published monthly, was launched in 1996, Elle is owned by the Lagardère Group of France. It is published in the U. S, in China, the publisher is Shanghai Translation Publishing House. And in India its owned and published by Ogaan Publications Pvt, in December 2013, Elle hired Randy Minor as design director
24.
L'Officiel
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LOfficiel is a French fashion magazine, the complete name of the magazine is LOfficiel de la couture et de la mode de Paris. It has been published in Paris since 1921 and targets upper-income, in 2006, it had a circulation of 101,719. The magazine is published in 30 different national editions, there exist as well L’Officiel Hommes, L’Officiel Art and L’Officiel Voyage, which specializes in men’s fashion, art and travel. L’Officiel belongs to Jalou Media Group owned by the Jalou Family, LOfficiel was created in 1921 by Max Brunhes and was first published by Andrée Castaniée, who occupied the position as General Director of the magazine. Georges Jalou joined the magazine as artistic director in 1932 and later he became the General Director of the magazine, in the 1930s the magazine started to present collections of haute-couture and since 1933 color photos has appeared in the pages of L’Officiel. During the Second World War the magazine continues to be published, but to provoke the occupants, in the 1940s the legacy of L’Officiel is marked by contributors including Colette, Jean Cocteau and illustrator René Gruau. With the Return of the Haute-couture in the 1950s L’Officiel is heading towards a new golden age, in the 1960s the magazine is one of the first to publish photos by Patrick Demarchelier. After Laurent dies of an attack in January 2003, Marie-José Susskind-Jalou becomes the president of the Company. In the recent years, the publication has taken a more youthful, in 2014 L’Officiel together with the 10 other magazines were gathered under one name, Jalou Media Group. The creation of Jalou Media Group and hence change of organization, allowed the Company to continue their steady growth, moreover, this has contributed to their continuously international expansion. In the late 1920s the magazine was published in three different languages, French, English and Spanish, in the 1980s L’Officiel was the first French Magazine to be published in China. In 1996 LOfficiel licensed its name to publishers outside France
25.
I-D
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I-D is a British magazine dedicated to fashion, music, art and youth culture. I-D was founded by designer and former Vogue art director Terry Jones in 1980, the first issue was published in the form of a hand-stapled fanzine with text produced on a typewriter. Over the years the magazine evolved into a mature glossy but it has kept street style, i-D has also held exhibitions worldwide and published several books. The magazine is known for its photography and typography and as a training ground for fresh talent. Photographers Wolfgang Tillmans, Mario Testino, Terry Richardson, Craig McDean, Nick Knight and Juergen Teller started their careers at i-D, as did Dylan Jones, other photographers that have contributed to i-D include Ellen von Unwerth and Kayt Jones. In 1984, Tony Elliott of Time Out became a partner with a 51% share of the company. Jones remained editor-in-chief and creative director, but he worked on other commercial projects. In 2004, Jones—together with his wife Tricia, regained control of the company. Vice Media acquired i-D in 2012, the magazine pioneered the hybrid style of documentary/fashion photography called The Straight Up. At first, these were of punks and new wave youth found on English streets, tipped on its side, the i-D typographic logo reveals a winking smiley. Most issues of i-D have featured a cover model. I-Ds 25th anniversary in 2005 was celebrated with an exhibition and guest-edited issues, Terry Jones invited a number of creative collaborators to work with him on different identity issues. The collaborators included Ashley Heath, M/M Paris, Alex McDowell, Simon Foxton and Stephen Male, Nick Knight, David Lipman, compiled and Produced by i-D Magazine. Terry and Tricia Jones, and Avril Mair, London, i-D,2000 / Taschen, Cologne. I-D selects the worlds 150 most important designers, i-D selects the worlds 160 most important designers. Initially launched in 2001 to celebrate i-Ds 20th birthday, Smile i-D highlighted the spirit of the magazine, since then, the show toured internationally, growing with each destination to include new material.095. Art gallery, Moscow, April 2007. The exhibition focused on identity, using images, film, sound. Fashion and Textile Museum, London, October 2005 then toured to New York, February 2006, Hong Kong, April 2006, Tokyo, April 2006, Beijing, London College of Fashion, London, February 2007, CP Company, Milan, April 2007
26.
Harper's Bazaar
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Harpers Bazaar is an American womens fashion magazine, first published in 1867. Harpers Bazaar is published by Hearst and, as a magazine, considers itself to be the resource for women who are the first to buy the best. Writers Alice Meynell, Daisy Fellowes, Gloria Guinness, and Eleanor Hoyt Brainerd, when Harpers Bazaar began publication, it was a weekly magazine catering to women in the middle and upper classes. It showcased fashion from Germany and Paris in a newspaper-design format and it was not until 1901 that Harpers moved to a monthly issued magazine which it maintains today. Now Harpers Bazaar is owned and operated by the Hearst Corporation in the U. S. harper & Brothers founded the magazine. This company also gave birth to Harpers Magazine and HarperCollins Publishing, glenda Bailey is the editor-in-chief of U. S. edition of Harpers Bazaar. As the turn-of-the-century began in America, Harpers Bazaar began featuring both illustrations and photographs for its covers and inside features of society and increasingly of fashion. During the late Victorian period, as the suffrage movement was gaining momentum. Bazaar also began profiling prominent socialites, such as the Astors, in 1933, editor-in-chief Carmel Snow brought photojournalist Martin Munkacsi to a windswept beach to shoot a swimwear spread. As the model ran toward the camera, Munkacsi took the picture that made fashion-magazine history, until that moment, nearly all fashion was carefully staged on mannequin-like models in a studio. Snows buoyant spirit and wicked sense of adventure brought life to the pages of Bazaar, Snows genius came from cultivating the best people. Her first big find was art director Alexey Brodovitch, who innovated Bazaars iconic Didot logo, Snow also unleashed the force of nature known as Diana Vreeland, whom she brought on as fashion editor in 1936. The collaboration of these four visionaries resulted in some of the germane fashion shoots of the 20th century and ended only with Snows retirement, at the age of 70, throughout his career at the magazine, Brodovitch, a Russian émigré, revolutionized magazine design. With his directive Astonish me, he inspired some of the greatest visual artists of the 20th century, one of his assistants was future Rolling Stone art director Tony Lane. Sadly, Brodovitchs personal life was less triumphant, plagued by alcoholism, he left Bazaar in 1958 and eventually moved to the south of France, where he died in 1971. Diana, who is said to have invented the word pizzazz, before long, she became fashion editor, collaborating with photographers Louise Dahl-Wolfe and Richard Avedon and, later, art director Henry Wolf. Her eccentricity, perception and wit, as well as her sharp wit and sweeping pronouncements, were memorialized in the movie Funny Face, making her, for many, Richard Avedon began creating fashion portfolios for Harpers Bazaar at the age of 22. His distinctive photographs showed both chic insouciance and boundless vitality, avedons women leapt off curbs, roller-skated on the Place de la Concorde, and were seen in nightclubs, enjoying the freedom and fashions of the postwar era
27.
Vogue (magazine)
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Vogue is an American fashion and lifestyle magazine made up of many components including fashion, beauty, culture, living, and runway. Vogue began as a newspaper in 1892 in the United States. The British Vogue was the first international edition launched in 1916, Turnures intention was to create a publication that celebrated the ceremonial side of life, one that attracts the sage as well as debutante, men of affairs as well as the belle. From its inception, the magazine targeted the new New York upper class, the magazine at this time was primarily concerned with fashion, with coverage of sports and social affairs included for its male readership. Despite the magazines content, it very slowly during this period. Condé Montrose Nast purchased Vogue in 1905 one year before Turnures death and he changed it to a bi-weekly magazine and started Vogue overseas in the 1910s. Under Nast, the magazine shifted its focus to women. The magazines number of publications and profit increased dramatically under Nasts management, by 1911, the Vogue brand had garnered a reputation that it continues to maintain, targeting an elite audience and expanding into the coverage of weddings. According to Condé Naste Russia, after the First World War made deliveries in the Old World impossible, the decision to print in England proved to be successful causing Nast to release the first issue of French Vogue in 1920. The magazines number of subscriptions surged during the Great Depression, during this time, noted critic and former Vanity Fair editor Frank Crowninshield served as its editor, having been moved over from Vanity Fair by publisher Condé Nast. In July of 1932, American Vogue placed its first color photograph on the cover of the magazine, the photograph was taken by photographer Edward Steichen and portrays a woman swimmer holding a beach ball in the air. Nast was responsible for introducing color printing and the two-page spread and he greatly impacted the magazine and turned it into a successful business and the womens magazine we recognize today and greatly increased the sales volumes until his death in 1942. Toward this end, Vogue extended coverage to include East Village boutiques such as Limbo on St, marks Place, as well as including features of downtown personalities such as Andy Warhols Superstar Jane Holzers favorite haunts. Vogue also continued making household names out of models, a practice continued with Suzy Parker, Twiggy, Jean Shrimpton, Lauren Hutton, Veruschka, Marisa Berenson, Penelope Tree. In 1973, Vogue became a monthly publication, under editor-in-chief Grace Mirabella, the magazine underwent extensive editorial and stylistic changes to respond to changes in the lifestyles of its target audience. Mirabella states that she was chosen to change Vogue because women werent interested in reading about or buying clothes that served no purpose in their changing lives and she was selected to make the magazine appeal to the the free, working, liberated woman of the seventies. She changed the magazine by adding text with interviews, arts coverage, when that type of stylihtic ceange f ell out of favor in the 1980s, Mirabella was brutally fired. Her take on it, For a magazine devoted to style, in July of 1988, after Vogue had began to lose ground to a three-year-old upstart Elle, Anna Wintour was named editor-in-chief
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Burberry
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Burberry Group, Inc. is a British luxury fashion house headquartered in London, England. Its main fashion house focuses on and distributes ready-to-wear outerwear, fashion accessories, fragrances, sunglasses, the first shop opened up in the Haymarket, London, in 1891. Burberry was an independent family controlled company until 1955, when it was reincorporated, the fashion house has dressed notable actors, world leaders, musicians, and athletes. Its distinctive check pattern has one of its most widely copied trademarks. Burberry is most famous for its trench coat, Burberry has branded stores and franchises around the world and sells through concessions in third-party stores. Christopher Bailey has been the CEO and Chief Creative Officer since 2014, the company is listed on the London Stock Exchange and is a constituent of the FTSE100 Index. In 2015, Burberry ranked 73rd in Interbrands Best Global Brands report, ahead of Ralph Lauren, Burberry has more than 500 stores in over 50 countries. Burberry was founded in 1856 when 21-year-old Thomas Burberry, a drapers apprentice, opened his own store in Basingstoke, Hampshire. By 1870, the business had established itself by focusing on the development of outdoors attire, in 1879, Burberry introduced in his brand the gabardine, a hardwearing, water-resistant yet breathable fabric, in which the yarn is waterproofed before weaving. Burberry was the name, but then the company soon switched to using the name Burberrys. In 1999, it reverted to its old name, Burberry, the name Burberrys of London is still visible on many older Burberry products. In 1891, Burberry opened a shop in the Haymarket, London, in 1901, the Burberry Equestrian Knight Logo was developed containing the Latin word Prorsum, meaning forwards, and later registered it as a trademark in 1909. In 1911 they became the outfitters for Roald Amundsen, the first man to reach the South Pole, and Ernest Shackleton, a Burberry gabardine jacket was worn by George Mallory on his attempt on Mount Everest in 1924. Adapted to meet the needs of military personnel, the coat was born during the First World War. After the war, the coat became popular with civilians. The iconic Burberry check has been in use since at least the 1920s, Burberry also specially designed aviation garments. In 1937, A. E. Clouston and Betty Kirby-Green broke the record for the fastest return flight from London to Cape Town in The Burberry plane – which was sponsored by the brand. Burberry was an independent family controlled company until 1955, when it was taken over by Great Universal Stores, stars of the modern world began wearing the Burberrys brand
29.
Tom Ford
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Thomas Carlyle Tom Ford is an American fashion designer, film director, screenwriter and film producer. He gained fame as the director at Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent. In 2006, Ford launched his own Tom Ford label, Ford directed the films A Single Man and Nocturnal Animals, which were Oscar-nominated. Tom Ford was born on August 27,1961, in Austin, Texas and he spent his early life in the suburbs of Houston, Texas, and in San Marcos, outside Austin, his family moved to Santa Fe, New Mexico, when he was 11. In Santa Fe, he entered St. Michaels High School and later moved to Santa Fe Preparatory School, at age 16, he enrolled at Bard College at Simons Rock, but quickly dropped out. He moved to New York City to study art history at New York University, Ford dropped out of NYU after a year, focusing on acting in television commercials. Ford began studying architecture at The New Schools art and design college. While in New York, he often visited Studio 54, where he realized he was gay, the clubs disco-era glamor would be a major influence on his later designs. Before his last year at New School, Ford spent a year and a half in Paris and he spent his final year at The New School studying fashion, but graduated with a degree in architecture. Despite his lack of experience in fashion, Ford called American designer Cathy Hardwick every day for a month in hopes of securing a job at her sportswear company, Hardwick eventually agreed to interview him. She later recalled the incident, I had every intention of giving him no hope, I asked him who his favorite European designers were. Months later I asked him why he said that, and he said, is it any wonder he got the job. Ford worked as an assistant for Hardwick for two years. In 1988, Ford moved to Perry Ellis, where he knew both Robert McDonald, the president, and Marc Jacobs, its designer, socially. He worked at the company for two years, but grew tired of working in American fashion, in a later interview with The New York Times, he commented, If I was ever going to become a good designer, I had to leave America. My own culture was inhibiting me, too much style in America is tacky. Its looked down upon to be too stylish, at the time, Italian fashion house Gucci was struggling financially and was seeking to strengthen its womens ready-to-wear presence as a part of a brand overhaul. The companys creative director, Dawn Mello said, no one would dream of wearing Gucci, in 1990, Mello hired Ford as the brands chief womens ready-to-wear designer and Ford moved to Milan
30.
Gucci
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Gucci is an Italian luxury brand of fashion and leather goods, part of the Gucci Group, which is owned by the French holding company Kering. Gucci was founded by Guccio Gucci in Florence in 1921, Gucci is also the biggest-selling Italian brand. Gucci operates about 278 directly operated stores worldwide as of September 2009, in the year 2013, the brand was valued at US$12.1 billion, with sales of US$4.7 billion. In the Forbes Worlds Most Valuable Brands list, Gucci is ranked the 38th most valuable brand, as of January 2015, the creative director is Alessandro Michele. With beginnings at the end of the 19th century, the Gucci company became one of the world’s most successful manufacturers of leather goods, clothing. As an immigrant hotel worker in Paris and later London, young Guccio Gucci was impressed with the luggage he saw urbane guests bring with them. Before leaving, he visited the manufacturer, H. J. Cave & Sons, upon returning to his birthplace of Florence, a city distinguished for high-quality materials and skilled artisans, he established a shop in 1920 that sold fine leather goods with classic styling. Although Gucci organized his workrooms for industrial methods of production, he maintained traditional aspects of fabrication, initially, Gucci employed skilled workers in basic Florentine leather crafts, attentive to finishing. With expansion, machine stitching was a method that supported construction. Together with three of his sons, Aldo Gucci, Vasco Gucci, and Rodolfo Gucci, Gucci expanded the company to include stores in Milan and Rome as well as additional shops in Florence. Guccis stores featured such finely crafted leather accessories as handbags, shoes, the company made handbags of cotton canvas rather than leather during World War II as a result of material shortages. The canvas, however, was distinguished by a signature double-G symbol combined with prominent red, after the war, the Gucci crest, which showed a shield and armored knight surrounded by a ribbon inscribed with the family name, became synonymous with the city of Florence. Aldo and Rodolfo Gucci further expanded the horizons in 1953 by establishing offices in New York City. Film stars and jet-set travelers to Italy during the 1950s and 1960s brought their glamour to Florence, movie stars posed in Guccis clothing, accessories, and footwear for lifestyle magazines around the world, contributing to the company’s growing reputation. Guccis distinctive lines made its products among the most frequently copied in the world in the early 2000s, pigskin, calf, and imported exotic animal skins were subjected to various methods of fabrication. Waterproof canvas and satin were used for evening bags, bamboo was first used to make handbag handles by a process of heating and molding in 1947, and purses made with a shoulder strap and snaffle-bit decoration were introduced in 1960. In 1964 Gucci’s lush butterfly pattern was custom-created for silk foulards, the original Gucci loafer was updated by a distinctive snaffle-bit ornament in 1966, while the Rolls-Royce luggage set was introduced in 1970. Watches, jewelry, ties, and eyewear were then added to the product lines
31.
Balenciaga
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Balenciaga is a French luxury fashion house founded by Cristóbal Balenciaga, a Spanish designer, born in the Basque Country, Spain. He had a reputation as a couturier of uncompromising standards and was referred to as the master of us all by Christian Dior and his bubble skirts and odd, feminine, yet ultra-modern shapes were trademarks of the house. The House of Balenciaga is now owned by the French multinational company Kering, Cristóbal Balenciaga opened his first boutique in San Sebastián, Spain in 1919, which expanded to include branches in Madrid and Barcelona. The Spanish royal family and the aristocracy wore his designs, but when the Spanish Civil War forced him to close his stores, Balenciaga opened his Paris couture house on Avenue George V in August 1937, and his first runway show featured designs heavily influenced by the Spanish Renaissance. Balenciagas success in Paris was nearly immediate, within two years, the French press lauded him as a revolutionary, and his designs were highly sought-after. Carmel Snow, the editor of Harpers Bazaar was a champion of his designs. Customers risked their safety to travel to Europe during World War II to see Balenciagas clothing, during this period, he was noted for his square coat, with sleeves cut in a single piece with the yoke, and for his designs with black lace over bright pink fabric. However, it was not until the years that the full scale of the inventiveness of this highly original designer became evident. His lines became more linear and sleek, diverging from the hourglass shape popularized by Christian Diors New Look, the fluidity of his silhouettes enabled him to manipulate the relationship between his clothing and womens bodies. In 1951, he transformed the silhouette, broadening the shoulders. In 1955, he designed the dress, which later developed into the chemise dress of 1958. Other contributions in the era included the spherical balloon jacket, the high-waisted baby doll dress, the cocoon coat, the balloon skirt. In 1959, his work culminated in the Empire line, with high-waisted dresses and his manipulation of the waist, in particular, contributed to what is considered to be his most important contribution to the world of fashion, a new silhouette for women. In the 1960s, Balenciaga was an innovator in his use of fabrics, he tended toward heavy fabrics, intricate embroidery and his trademarks included collars that stood away from the collarbone to give a swanlike appearance and shortened bracelet sleeves. In 1960, he designed the dress for Queen Fabiola of Belgium made of ivory duchess satin trimmed with white mink at the collar. Jackie Kennedy famously upset John F. Kennedy for buying Balenciagas expensive creations while he was President because he feared that the American public might think the purchases too lavish and her haute couture bills were eventually discreetly paid by her father-in-law, Joseph Kennedy. By keeping the press unaware of the design of his garments until the day before they were shipped to stores, he hoped to curtail ongoing piracy and copying of his designs. The press resisted, finding it impossible to get his work into their print deadlines
32.
Max Mara
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Max Mara is an Italian fashion business. It was established in 1951 in Reggio Emilia by Achille Maramotti, in March 2008, the company had 2,254 stores in 90 countries. It sponsors the Max Mara Art Prize for Women, Achille Maramotti began designing couture clothing in 1947, and officially established the House of Max Mara in 1951. The Mara came from his surname, while Max referred to Count Max, Maramotti was one of the first to see that the future of fashion lay in the mass production of designer-quality clothes. The company remains in the hands of the family and they like to maintain a veil of secrecy about the activities of the company, Max Mara has spawned 35 labels, although Max Mara womenswear remains the core of the company. Other brands include Sportmax, Sportmax Code, Weekend Max Mara, Marella, Pennyblack, iBlues, Max & Co. and this last, founded in 1980 and named after Achille Maramottis great grandmother, is one of the best-known, in her obituary of Maramotti for The Independent. As of July 17,2013, Jennifer Garner is the first celebrity spokesperson for Max Mara, starting in September 2013, the campaign appears in Vogue, Harpers Bazaar, Elle, W, InStyle, The New York Times, and the International Herald Tribune. Achille Maramotti was born on January 7,1927 in Reggio Emilia in Italy, Maramotti was educated in Rome and received a law degree from University of Parma. According to Forbes Rich List of 2005, Maramotti was one of the worlds richest men with a fortune of US$2.1 billion and he was a great patron of the arts, with a great love of the Expressionists, and was also a big investor in Italian banks. He died in Albinea, Italy 12 January 2005, Maramottis two sons and daughter, Luigi, Ignazio and Ludovica, followed him into the business, Luigi Maramotti is chairman of the company. After his death, according to Maramottis will, a large and important collection of art from Europe
33.
Versace
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Gianni Versace S. p. A. usually referred to as Versace, is an Italian luxury fashion company and trade name founded by Gianni Versace in 1978. The Versace logo is the head of Medusa, a Greek mythological figure, the logo came from the floor of ruins in Rome that the Versace siblings played in as children. Gianni Versace chose Medusa as the logo because she made people fall in love with her and he hoped his company would have the same effect on people. The Versace brand is known for having flashy prints and bright colors, in 1972, Gianni Versace designed his first collections for Callaghan, Genny, and Complice. In 1978, the company launched under the name Gianni Versace Donna, the first Versace boutique was opened in Milans Via della Spiga in 1978. Versace was one of the few independent designers who was in control of everything about the brand, in 1982, the company expanded into the accessory, jewelry, home furnishing, and china industries. In 1993, Donatella Versace created the Young Versace line as well as Versus, in 1994, the brand gained widespread international coverage due to the Black Versace dress of Elizabeth Hurley, referred to at the time as that dress. Versace was often described as the Rock n Roll designer because they designed for many clients, including Elton John, Michael Jackson. Versace designed the costumes and album cover costumes for Elton John in 1992. Versace has also designed clothing for the Princess of Wales and Princess Caroline of Monaco, the Versace company is known for using the same models in their ads as they do on the runway. After the murder of Gianni Versace in 1997, his sister Donatella Versace, formerly vice-president, took over as creative director, donatellas daughter Allegra Versace was left a 50 percent stake in the company, which she assumed control of on her eighteenth birthday. The companys profits were in decline in the early 2000s, Fabio Massimo Cacciatori was hired as interim CEO to reorganise, Cacciatori resigned in December 2003 due to disputes with the Versace family. From 2004 Giancarlo di Risio, from IT Holding, was CEO of the group until his resignation in 2009 due to disagreements with Donatella, since July 2009, Gian Giacomo Ferraris, previously of Jil Sander, has operated as CEO for the group. In February 2014 The Blackstone Group purchased a 20 percent stake in Versace for 210 million €, as of August 2013, more than 80 boutiques operate worldwide, the first boutique outside of Italy was opened in Glasgow, Scotland in 1991. In 2006, Gianni Versace S. p. A. entered into a partnership with Automobili Lamborghini S. p. A. to produce the Lamborghini Murciélago LP640 VERSACE, the car had a Versace white satin interior with the Versace logo embroidered into the seats. The car was available in black and white, there were only ten units produced. The car was sold with a luggage set, luxury driving shoes. The Versace company teamed up with AgustaWestland in 2008 to create the AgustaWestland AW109 Grand Versace VIP luxury helicopter, the helicopter includes Versace leather interior and a design on the outside
34.
Yves Saint Laurent (brand)
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Yves Saint Laurent YSL is a French luxury fashion house founded by Yves Saint Laurent and his partner, Pierre Bergé. Saint Laurent Paris revived its haute couture collection in 2015 under creative director Hedi Slimane, the new collection, Yves Saint Laurent Couture or Saint Laurent Paris 24, Rue de L’Université is the French houses first couture collection ever since the retirement of its legendary founder in 2002. Founded in 1961 it has considered one of the worlds most prominent fashion houses and known for its modern and iconic pieces. Today Saint Laurent Paris markets a range of womens and mens ready-to-wear products, leather goods, shoes. Yves Saint Laurent Beauté also has a presence in the luxury beauty market. Competitors to Yves Saint Laurent include, among many, the houses of Chanel, Burberry, Dior, Gucci, Louis Vuitton. The eponymous brand was founded by designer Yves Saint Laurent and his partner, Pierre Bergé in 1961, some of his most memorable collections include the Pop Art, Ballet Russes, Picasso, and Chinese ones. He also started mainstreaming the idea of wearing silhouettes from the 1920s, 1930s and 1940s and he was the first, in 1966, to popularize ready-to-wear in an attempt to democratize fashion, with Rive Gauche and a boutique of the same name. Ambassador to the couturier during the late 1970s and early 1980s was London socialite millionairess Diane Vandelli, making the brand more popular among the European jet-set. The brand continued to expand in the 1980s and early 1990s with fragrances for men and women, having launched its cosmetic line in 1978. However, by 1992 the companys profits were declining and the share price had fallen. In 1993, the Saint Laurent fashion house was sold to the pharmaceuticals company Sanofi, in the 1998–1999 seasons, Alber Elbaz, formerly of Lanvin, designed three ready-to-wear collections. Pierre Bergé appointed Hedi Slimane as collections and art director in 1997, Hedi Slimane decided to leave the house two years later, and became head of couture menswear at Dior Homme. In 1999, Gucci bought the YSL brand and asked Tom Ford to design the collection while Saint Laurent would design the haute couture collection. In 2002, dogged by years of health, drug abuse, depression, alcoholism. Reflecting on his career and impact on the industry, Saint Laurent was heavily quoted around the world for stating, Chanel freed women. Saint Laurent also stated, I created the contemporary womans wardrobe, the prêt-à-porter line was produced under the direction of Stefano Pilati after Tom Ford left in 2004. His style was decidedly more French than the overtly sexy image that Tom Ford propagated
35.
Oscar de la Renta
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Óscar Arístides Renta Fiallo, known professionally as Oscar de la Renta, was a Dominican-American fashion designer. Born in Santo Domingo, he was trained by Cristóbal Balenciaga, De la Renta became internationally known in the 1960s as one of the couturiers who dressed Jacqueline Kennedy. An award-winning designer, he worked for Lanvin and Balmain and his eponymous fashion house continues to dress leading figures, from film stars to royalty. The Fiallos, De la Rentas mothers family, were so embedded in Dominican society that they could count poets, scholars and their origin in the island can be traced back to the foundation of San Carlos de Tenerife in 1685 by Canarian settlers. A maternal uncle, Luis Arístides Fiallo Cabral, was a doctor, lawyer, and architect, another maternal uncle, Fabio Fiallo, was a diplomat and poet. On his fathers side, De la Rentas great-great grandfather José Ortíz de la Renta, was the first mayor of Ponce, Puerto Rico elected by popular vote. He had the distinction of serving as mayor eight times, the most ever — 1812–1814, 1815–1816, 1820–1821, 1823–1826, 1837–1838, 1842–1843, and 1843–1844, De la Renta was raised Catholic in a protective family. His mother died from complications of multiple sclerosis when he was 18, at the age of 18, he went to study painting in Spain at the Academy of San Fernando in Madrid. For extra money, he drew clothes for newspapers and fashion houses. After Francesca Lodge, the wife of John Davis Lodge, the U. S. Ambassador to Spain, saw some of his dress sketches, the dress appeared on the cover of Life magazine that fall. He considered Cristóbal Balenciaga his mentor, in 1961, de la Renta left Spain to join Antonio del Castillo as a couture assistant at Lanvin in Paris. In 1963, de la Renta turned to Diana Vreeland, the editor-in-chief of Vogue for advice, saying that what he wanted was to get into ready to wear. Vreeland replied, Then go to Arden because you make your reputation faster. She is not a designer, so she will promote you, at the other place, you will always be eclipsed by the name of Dior. De la Renta proceeded to work for Arden for two years in New York City before he went to work for Jane Derby, an American fashion house, when Derby died in August 1965, de la Renta took over the label. From 1993 to 2002, de la Renta designed the haute couture collection for the house of Balmain, in 2006, the Oscar de la Renta label diversified into bridal wear. De la Rentas designs have been worn by a group of distinguished women. De la Rentas brand saw international wholesale growth beginning in 2003, under the direction of CEO Alex Bolen, De la Rentas ready-to-wear designs are available in his retail stores, online, and with select wholesale partners worldwide
36.
Stella McCartney
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Stella Nina McCartney, OBE is an English fashion designer. She is the daughter of former Beatles member Paul McCartney and American musician, photographer, McCartney was born in Lambeth, London, the second child of Beatle Paul McCartney and American photographer Linda McCartney. She is named after her maternal great-grandmothers, as a young girl, McCartney travelled the globe with her parents and their group Wings, along with her siblings, older sister Heather, older sister Mary, and younger brother James. According to her father, the name of Wings was inspired by Stellas difficult birth, as his daughter was being born by emergency caesarean section, Paul sat outside the operating room and prayed that she be born on the wings of an angel. McCartney has said that while attending school, she was a victim of bullying. McCartney became interested in designing clothes as a youth, at age thirteen, she designed her first jacket. Three years later, she interned for Christian Lacroix, working on her first haute couture collection, honing her skills working for Edward Sexton, her fathers Savile Row tailor for a number of years. She studied her foundation at Ravensbourne College of Design and Communication, followed by Fashion Design at Central Saint Martins in the early 1990s, she graduated in 1995. Her graduation collection was modelled by friends and supermodels Naomi Campbell, Yasmin Le Bon, the collection was shown to a song penned by her famous father, called Stella May Day. The show made front-page news, and the collection was sold to Tokyo. The designs were licensed to Browns, Joseph, Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus, in 1998, she designed her sister Marys wedding dress for her wedding to television producer Alistair Donald. A lifelong vegetarian, McCartney does not use any leather or fur in her designs, some of McCartneys designs have text that elaborates on her no animal policy, for example, one of her jackets for Adidas says, suitable for sporty vegetarians on the sleeve. She does use wool, silk, and other animal-derived fabrics in her designs, in March 1997 McCartney was appointed creative director of Paris fashion house Chloé, following in the footsteps of Karl Lagerfeld. Lagerfeld was less impressed with the houses choice, stating. They did, but in music, not fashion, lets hope shes as gifted as her father. Despite initial skepticism, McCartneys designs have enjoyed commercial and critical success. She was accompanied to Chloé by her assistant and friend Phoebe Philo, in 2001, McCartney launched her own fashion house under her name in a joint venture with Gucci Group and showed her first collection in Paris. Her collections are now distributed in over 50 countries through 600 wholesale accounts including specialty shops, in 2003, McCartney launched her first perfume, Stella
37.
DKNY
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DKNY is a New York-based fashion house specializing in fashion goods for men and women, founded in 1984 by Donna Karan. Karan worked for 15 years at Anne Klein, including 10 as its head designer, in 1984 Karan and her late husband Stephan Weiss were offered the opportunity to start their own business by the owner of Anne Klein, Takihyo LLC. The company became a publicly traded venture in 1996, in 2001 it was purchased by the French conglomerate corporation LVMH. In 2015 Donna Karan left as chief designer at Donna Karan International, to focus on her Urban Zen brand, LVMH sold Donna Karan International, with the Donna Karan and DKNY brands, to the GIII Apparel Group in 2016 for $650 million. G-III, based in New York City, is a manufacturer and distributor of clothing and accessories under their brands, licensed brands. In July 1991 she launched her first menswear collection, the New York part on the label is there to set the pace, the attitude of the fashion houses offering. Inspired by her daughter Gaby, Donna Karan founded DKNY in 1989 as a younger, many labels and brands have branched off of the original DKNY brand/label including DKNY Jeans, DKNY Active, DKNY Underwear, DKNY Juniors, DKNY Kids, DKNY Pure. DKNY Men, launched in 1992, consists of tailored suits, dress wear, formalwear, casual wear, sportswear, the Donna Karan Beauty collection, which specializes in fragrances, was launched in 1992. In 2001, the Donna Karan Home collection, which includes traditional luxury bedding and accessories, and DKNY Home, cara Delevingne has been the face of DKNY for multiple seasons. Stores opened in London in 1997 and New York City in 1999, the DKNY headquarters is located at 550 Seventh Avenue in Manhattan, New York. DKNY has also opened stores in Denmark. Since 2005, Donna Karan has offered online shopping of its DKNY, products range from DKNY and DKNY Jeans womenswear, accessories, underwear, shoes, baby clothing, the PURE collection to DKNY menswear. The latter was available up until the spring 2002 season, since then only the DKNY Jeans label, underwear, eyewear and watches have been offered online for men. After Stanton learned of the use of his photography, he publicly asked DKNY to donate $100,000 to the YMCA to help with summer programs, amidst strong criticism on social media sites, DKNY apologized and donated $25,000 to the YMCA. Stanton then asked his followers on the HONY Facebook page to make up the difference to reach his goal of $100,000. Today she is looking to sell off its Donna Karan business, less than a year after the fashion designer stepped down from her namesake brand, negotiations are reported to be “ongoing, but a price has not yet been agreed, ” Official website Original Donna Karan website
38.
Moschino
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Moschino is an Italian luxury fashion house, specialized ready-to-wear, leather and fashion accessories, shoes, luggage, perfume etc. founded in 1983 by Franco Moschino. Moschino is often pronounced in English as MOS-CHI-NO, when in fact the correct pronunciation is MOS-KEY-NO, the brand was originally created in 1983 by the late Franco Moschino. After Moschinos untimely death, Rossella Jardini, his former assistant, the brand has been part of the Aeffe fashion group since 1999. Rossella Jardini was Moschino’s Creative Director from 1994 to October 2013, in October 2013, Jeremy Scott became Moschinos creative director, showing his first Moschino collection in Fall 2014. In 2006, Moschino designed the outfits for the ceremony of the 2006 Winter Olympics in Turin. Moschino also designed outfits for Kylie Minogues 2005 Showgirl - The Greatest Hits Tour, Madonnas 2008 Sticky & Sweet Tour, starting with the F/W 2008-2009 pre-collection, the Moschino Jeans label changed its name to Love Moschino which better expresses its intrinsic nature. The owner of the Moschino labels is Moschino SpA, the company which was acquired by Aeffe SpA, Moschino SpA carries out its brand management, licensing agreement activities, communication and coordination of the commercial policies autonomously. In 2007, Moschino SpA signed an agreement with con Scienward International Holdings Limited for the franchising. The 10-year agreement provides for the opening of 40 stores and the distribution of Moschino brand clothing lines beginning with the S/S2008 collection. The new collection of Moschino Helmets was presented to the world for the first time in November 2007 and these helmets were the result of a collaboration between Max Safety Fashion helmet manufacturers and the Moschino fashion brand. On 25 February 2010, the hotel “Maison Moschino” inaugurated in Milan at Viale Monte Grappa 12, a declared celebration of Moschino’s evolution from its beginnings until the S/S2010 collection, told through its clothes and accessories, ad campaigns and boutique window displays. In July 2011, the collection was presented at the catwalk of The Brandery fashion show in Barcelona. In February 2014, WWD announced that Angela Missoni hired Rossella Jardini, Angela Missoni will continue to be creative director of Missoni. The brand consists of several labels, Moschino, Moschino Cheap and Chic, Love Moschino, in addition, accessories, jewelry, watches, perfume and cosmetics, and even jet helmets are sold under the Moschino brand. Almost all models of watches are made by Binda Group, in Milan, Moschino opened its own concept hotel in 2009, Maison Moschino. Starting in 2014, under the direction of creative director Jeremy Scott, Moschino Cheap, Moschino SpA has managed the stylistic activities, coordinated the image and communication, supervised distribution and created the commercial strategies since 2000. The Moschino, Moschino Cheap And Chic and Accessories collections are produced by Aeffe S. p. A. the other product lines are managed by licensing agreements. De Moschino, women fragrance launched in 1996 Uomo, Men fragrance launched in 1998 LEau Cheap and Chic, women fragrance launched in 2001 Couture
39.
Tommy Hilfiger
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Thomas Jacob Tommy Hilfiger is an American fashion designer best known for founding the lifestyle brand Tommy Hilfiger Corporation in 1985. After starting his career by co-founding a chain of clothing and record stores in upstate New York in the 1970s, the company later expanded into womens clothing and various luxury items such as perfumes, and went public in 1992. In 1997, Hilfiger published his first book, titled All American, A Style Book, Hilfigers memoirs American Dreamer, co-written with Peter Knobler, were published November 1,2016. Hilfigers collections are often influenced by the fashion of music subcultures and marketed in connection with the music industry, in 2005, contestants in the CBS reality show The Cut competed for a design job with Hilfiger in a similar fashion to The Apprentice. In 2006, Hilfiger sold his company for $1.6 billion to Apax Partners and he remains the company’s principal designer, leading the design teams and overseeing the entire creative process. In 2012 Hilfiger was awarded the Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America, thomas Jacob Tommy Hilfiger was born March 24,1951 in Elmira, New York. The second of nine children, both of his parents were practicing Catholics and his father Richard was a watchmaker of Dutch-German descent and his mother Virginia was a nurse of Irish descent. Hilfiger also claims descent from the Scottish poet Robert Burns. Hilfiger has described his upbringing as very happy and he credits his parents with instilling a good work ethic and compassion for others. Hilfiger had an early interest in sports, fashion, and the music industry, one of his brothers, Andy Hilfiger, went on to work as a musician and designer, while Hilfigers other brother Billy Hilfiger would join King Flux as a guitarist. Hilfiger graduated from the Elmira Free Academy high school in 1970 and his parents wanted him to get a college education and pursue a traditional career, and for a time he attended GST BOCES Bush Campus in Elmira. Hilfiger spent the summer of 1969 working in a store on Cape Cod. Opened in 1971 as People’s Place, the first store was located in downtown Elmira in what is now the site of First Arena, and had a salon, a record shop. To stock the store, Hilfiger and his friends would drive to New York City to buy clothing such as bell-bottoms, peasant blouses, and leather jackets. Slightly unsatisfied with the clothing he bought from suppliers, Hilfiger began sketching his own designs. I knew from early work that designing would be my life. Despite its initial success, after seven years of selling hippie supplies like bell-bottoms, incense and records out of ten stores, the Peoples Place went bankrupt in 1977, he’s often referred to this point in his life as his real-world MBA. At this point Hilfiger enrolled in classes on commerce and the side of the fashion industry
40.
Jason Wu
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Jason Wu is a Canadian artist and fashion designer based in New York City. He is best known for designing the dresses of Michelle Obama on several occasions, including those worn during the first, Jason Wu was born in Taipei, Taiwan and emigrated to Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada at age nine. He attended Eaglebrook School in Deerfield, Massachusetts and Loomis Chaffee in Windsor, Connecticut and he learned how to sew by designing and sewing for dolls, and went on to study sculpture in Tokyo. At age sixteen Wu continued this path by learning to create freelance doll clothing designs for toy company Integrity Toys under the lines Jason Wu dolls. The following year, he was named director of Integrity Toys. While spending his senior year of school in Rennes, France before graduating from the Loomis Chaffee School in 2001. He then studied at the Parsons The New School for Design, Wu launched his ready-to-wear line of clothes with earnings from his years of doll designs. His first Fashion collection started from 2003 not 2006 and he won the Fashion Group Internationals Rising Star award in 2008. Jason Wus dresses were photographed underwater by Howard Schatz for Delta Faucet Companys Brizo branded faucet campaign in 2006. In 2008 he was nominated for the CFDA / Vogue Fashion Fund award, bruce Weber shot the designer for W magazines Summer Camp portfolio in July 2008. Wus early clients included Ivana Trump, January Jones, and Amber Valletta and he also worked extensively with drag queen RuPaul, ultimately designing six RuPaul dolls. Wu collaborated with Creative Nail Design for his Spring 2011 collection to create a set of four nail polish colours that was to be retailed from May 2011, in June 2013, Wu was named as the Art Director of German fashion house Hugo Boss overseeing the entire womenswear range. Michelle Obama is a noted Jason Wu customer and she was introduced to Wu by André Leon Talley, Vogue Magazines editor-at-large, who had been advising the former First Family on their appearance. She wore another dress, a custom-designed one-shoulder, floor-length white chiffon gown, appearing on the cover of Vogue, Obama once again wore a Wu design, a magenta silk dress. On April 2,2009, Obama paired a traditional looking teal Wu dress with a blue-patterned cardigan designed by Junya Watanabe on her visit to the Royal Opera House. Mrs. Obama again wore a dress that was designed by Wu, Wu, who is openly gay, married Gustavo Rangel in April 2016 in Mexico. LGBT culture in New York City All Access at Jason Wus New York Fashion Week 360 Jason Wu autumn/winter 2011-12 collection Official Website Jason Wu dolls
41.
Christian Dior SE
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Christian Dior SE, commonly known as Dior, is a French luxury goods company controlled and chaired by French businessman Bernard Arnault, who also heads LVMH – the worlds largest luxury group. Dior itself holds 42. 36% shares of and 59. 01% voting rights within LVMH, while the Christian Dior label remains largely for womens offerings, the company also operates the Dior Homme division for men and the baby Dior label for childrens wear. Products are sold throughout its portfolio of retail stores worldwide, as well as through its online store, the House of Dior was established on 16 December 1946, in a private house at 30 Avenue Montaigne Paris B. However, the current Dior corporation celebrates 1947 as the opening year, Dior was financially backed by wealthy businessman Marcel Boussac. Boussac had originally invited Dior to design for Philippe et Gaston, the new couture house became a part of a vertically integrated textile business already operated by Boussac. Its capital was at FFr 6 million and workforce at 80 employees, Diors creativity also negotiated him a good salary. On 12 February 1947, Dior launched his first fashion collection for Spring–Summer 1947, the show of 90 models of his first collection on six mannequins was presented in the salons of the companys headquarters at 30 Avenue Montaigne. Originally, the two lines were named Corolle and Huit, however, the new collection went down in fashion history as the New Look after the editor-in-chief of Harpers Bazaar Carmel Snow exclaimed, Its such a New Look. At a time of post-war fabric restrictions, Dior used up to twenty yards of extravagant fabrics for his creations, as a result, Paris, which had fallen from its position as the capital of the fashion world after WWII, regained its preeminence. The New Look was welcomed in western Europe as an antidote to the austerity of wartime and de-feminizing uniforms. According to Harold Koda, The Costume Institute curator in charge, not everyone was pleased with the New Look, however. Some considered the amount of material to be wasteful, especially after years of cloth rationing, feminists in particular were outraged, feeling that the new designs with its return to corsets were restrictive and regressive, and that Diors designs took away womens independence. Fellow designer Coco Chanel remarked, “Only a man who never was intimate with a woman could design something that uncomfortable. ”Available references contradict themselves whether Christian Dior Parfums was established in 1947 or 1948. The Dior corporation itself lists the founding of Christian Dior Parfums as 1947, with the launch of its first perfume, Dior revolutionized the perfumery industry with the launch of the highly popular Miss Dior parfum, which was named after Catherine Dior. Christian Dior Ltd owned 25%, manager of Coty perfumes held 35%, pierre Cardin was made head of the Dior workshop from 1947 until 1950. In 1948, a New York City Christian Dior Parfums branch was established—this could be the cause of establishment-date issue. The modern Dior corporation also notes that a luxury ready-to-wear house is established in New York at the corner of 5th Avenue and 57th Street, in 1949, the Diorama perfume is released and by 1949, the New Look line alone made a profit FFr 12.7 million. Expansion from France began by the end of 1949 with the opening of a Christian Dior boutique in New York City, by the end of the year, Dior fashions made up 75% of Pariss fashion exports and 5% of Frances total export revenue
42.
Michael Kors
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Michael Kors is a New York City-based American sportswear fashion designer. Kors was the first women’s ready-to-wear designer for the French house Celine, Kors was born Karl Anderson, Jr. on Long Island, New York, the son of Joan Hamburg, a former model, and her first husband, Karl Anderson, Sr, a college student. His mother remarried Bill Kors when he was five, and his surname was changed to Kors, Kors mother is Jewish and his father was of Swedish descent. Kors married his partner, Lance Le Pere, on August 16,2011, in Southampton, Kors affinity for fashion started when he was very young. His mother thought his affinity might have caused in part by his exposure to the apparel industry through her modeling career. Michael, at the age of five, even redesigned his mothers wedding dress for her second marriage, as a teen, Kors began designing clothes and selling them out of his parents basement, which he renamed the Iron Butterfly. Kors also took acting lessons when he was young, but stopped when he was 14 when he decided to focus on becoming a fashion designer, in 1977, he enrolled at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City. However, he dropped out after nine months and took a job at a boutique across from Bergdorf Goodman on 57th Street in Midtown Manhattan. Shortly after, Dawn Mello, the director at Bergdorf. She asked if he would show his collection to Bergdorf Goodmans buyers, in 1981, Kors launched the Michael Kors womenswear line at Bloomingdales, Bergdorf Goodman, Lord & Taylor, Neiman Marcus, and Saks Fifth Avenue. In 1990, the company launched KORS Michael Kors, a bankruptcy in 1993 forced him to discontinue the KORS line for a time. He managed to get back on his feet by 1997 and launched a lower priced line, in his tenure at Celine, Kors turned the fashion house around with successful accessories and a critically acclaimed ready-to-wear line. Kors left Celine in October 2003 to concentrate on his own brand, Kors launched his menswear line in 2002. The MICHAEL Michael Kors and KORS Michael Kors lines were launched in 2004, the MICHAEL Michael Kors line includes womens handbags and shoes as well as womens ready-to-wear apparel. Currently, Kors has Collection boutiques in New York, Beverly Hills, Palm Beach, as of the end of the first fiscal quarter in 2016, Kors has over 770 Lifestyle stores around the world. The year 2011 marked the 30th anniversary of Kors business, michelle Obama wore a black sleeveless dress from the designer for her first term official portrait as First Lady and later sported Kors again at the 2015 State of the Union address. Joan Allen wore his gown when she was nominated for an Academy Award for Best Actress for her role in the The Contender, jennifer Garner wore a custom creation as an Academy Award presenter in 2006. As creative director of Celine, Kors designed many outfits for actresses to wear on screen, including Gwyneth Paltrow in Possession, one of his gowns was worn by Alicia Keys for her performance at Barack Obamas inaugural ball on January 21,2013
43.
Hugo Boss
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Hugo Boss AG, often styled as BOSS, is a German luxury fashion house. It was founded in 1924 by Hugo Boss and is headquartered in Metzingen, originally focusing on uniforms, it was a supplier for Nazi Party organizations both before and during World War II. After the war and the death in 1948, Hugo Boss started to turn its focus from uniforms to mens suits. In 1924, Hugo Boss started a company in Metzingen, a small town south of Stuttgart. Due to the climate of Germany at the time, Boss was forced into bankruptcy. In 1931, he reached an agreement with his creditors, leaving him with six sewing machines to start again and that same year, he became a member of the Nazi Party and a sponsoring member of the Schutzstaffel. He also joined the German Labour Front in 1936, the Reich Air Protection Association in 1939, after joining these organizations, his sales increased from 38,260 RM to over 3,300,000 RM in 1941. His profits also increased in the time period from 5,000 RM to 241,000 RM. Though he claimed in a 1934–35 advertisement that he had been a supplier for National Socialist uniforms since 1924 and this is the year he became a Reichszeugmeisterei-licensed supplier of uniforms to the Sturmabteilung, Schutzstaffel, Hitler Youth, National Socialist Motor Corps, and other party organizations. For production in years of the war, Hugo Boss used prisoners of war and forced labourers, from the Baltic States, Belgium, France, Italy, Austria, Poland, Czechoslovakia. According to German historian Henning Kober, the managers were fervent Nazis who were all great admirers of Adolf Hitler. In 1945 Hugo Boss had a photograph in his apartment of him with Hitler, in a 1946 judgment he was stripped of his voting rights, his capacity to run a business, and fined a very heavy penalty of 100,000 DM. He died in 1948, but his business survived, as a result of the ban on Boss being in business, his son-in-law Eugen Holy took over ownership and running of the company. In 1950, after a period supplying work uniforms, the received its first order for mens suits. By 1960 the company was producing ready made suits, in 1969, Eugen retired, leaving the company to his sons Jochen and Uwe, who began international development. In 1970, the first Boss branded suits were produced, with the brand becoming a registered trademark in 1977 and this was followed by the start of the companys long association with motorsport, sponsoring Formula One driver Niki Lauda, and later the McLaren Racing team. In 1984, the first Boss branded fragrance appeared and this helped the company gain the required growth for listing on the Frankfurt Stock Exchange the following year. The brand entered the world of golf by sponsoring Bernhard Langer in 1986, in 1989, Boss launched its first licensed sunglasses
44.
Ralph Lauren
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Ralph Lauren is an American fashion designer, philanthropist, and business executive, best known for the Ralph Lauren Corporation, a global multibillion-dollar enterprise. He has also become known for his collection of rare automobiles. Lauren stepped down as Chief Executive Officer of the company in September 2015 but remains its Executive Chairman, as of October 2016, Forbes estimates his wealth at $5.5 billion, which makes Ralph Lauren the 233rd richest person in the world. Ralph Lauren was born in The Bronx, New York City, to Ashkenazi Jewish immigrants, Frieda and Frank Lifshitz and he is the youngest of four siblings – two brothers and one sister. Lauren attended day school followed by MTA, before graduating from DeWitt Clinton High School in 1957. He grew up playing basketball and baseball and he wanted to be Joe DiMaggio, and then he wanted to be a movie star. Lauren constantly draws inspiration from his heroes including Frank Sinatra, Cary Grant and he went to Baruch College, at the City University of New York where he studied business, although he dropped out after two years. From 1962 to 1964 he served in the United States Army, the Ralph Lauren Corporation started in 1967 with men’s ties. At 28 years-old, Lauren worked for the tie manufacturer Beau Brummell, drawing on his interests in sports, Ralph Lauren named his first full line of menswear ‘Polo’ in 1968. He worked out of a drawer from a showroom in the Empire State Building. By 1969, the Manhattan department store Bloomingdales sold Lauren’s men line exclusively and it was the first time that Bloomingdale’s had given a designer their own in-store boutique. In 1971, Ralph Lauren Corporation launched a line of tailored shirts for women, the first full women’s collection was launched the following year. 1971 also marked the opening of Ralph Lauren’s store on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills and this is the first freestanding store for an American designer. In 1972 the Ralph Lauren Corporation introduced a signature cotton mesh Polo shirt in various colors, featuring the polo player logo at the chest, the shirt became emblematic of the preppy look—one of Ralph Laurens signature styles. The tag line for the ad campaign was, Every team has its color -- Polo has seventeen, in 1977, Diane Keaton and Woody Allen wore Lauren’s clothes throughout their Oscar-winning film, Annie Hall. The first Ralph Lauren fragrances, produced by Warner-Lauren, Ltd. were launched at Bloomingdales in March 1978, Lauren, a fragrance for women, on March 12 and Polo, cologne for men, on March 26. This was the first time that a designer has introduced two fragrances – one for men and one for women – simultaneously, Ralph Lauren opens his first flagship in the Rhinelander mansion, on Madison Avenue and 72nd Street in New York City in 1986. Lauren re-creates the buildings original opulence with a design consultant named Naomi Leff
45.
Dolce & Gabbana
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Dolce & Gabbana is a luxury Italian fashion house founded in 1985 in Legnano by Italian designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. The two met in Milan in 1980 and designed for the fashion house. In 1982 they established a designer consulting studio, in time it grew to become Dolce & Gabbana and they presented their first womens collection in 1985 in Milan, where a year later their store would open its doors. In 1988, they launched their line, and in 1989 they began designing underwear. Dolce & Gabbana started to export their products to Japan and other countries like the U. S. where they founded their own showroom in 1990, in 1992, the same year they presented their mens collection, they also launched their first perfume Dolce & Gabbana. They won the Woolmark award in 1991, and the prize most feminine flavor of the year in 1993, towards the end of the 1990s their sales were around 500 million dollars and in 2003 their revenue reached $633 million. By 2005, their turnover was €600 million, Domenico Dolce began his career in the fashion industry after dropping out of a three-year course in fashion design at Marangoni Institute, believing that he knew everything the school had to teach. His dream was to work for Giorgio Armani so one day, inside the door, there was a long white carpet leading to the receptionists desk. Dolce was not sure if he should walk on it with his shoes on, I am such a cretino, he says. He decided that he would look ridiculous appearing at the front desk without shoes, so he approached by sidling along the wall and he handed the book to the receptionist and to this day, Dolce does not know if Armani ever saw the sketches. Dolce found a job as an assistant to a designer named Giorgio Correggiari, One night at a club, he met a young man named Stefano Gabbana. Dolce was impressed with Gabbanas good looks and outgoing personality and Gabbana was happy to hear Dolces advice on how to approach Correggiari for a job. Correggiari ended up hiring Gabbana to work on sportswear, and Dolce taught him how to sketch and the basics of tailoring, Dolce, We always filed two different invoices for the freelance work we did, even when we were working for the same client. Gabbana, Our accountant said, Why not just do one invoice for both of you, put Dolce and Gabbana at the top. So the brand was born, the brainchild of a Milanese bookkeeper, the first collection from the design duo was shown in October 1985 alongside five other up-and-coming Italian labels as part of Milan Fashion Week. The two did not have money to hire models or provide accessories for them, so they sought help from their friends. The models simply wore their personal items to complement the clothing and they used a bed sheet that Dolce had brought from home as their stage curtain. The pair labeled their first collection Real Women, due in part to the use of local women on the runway
