1.
Chemise (wall)
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In medieval castles the chemise was typically a low wall encircling the keep, protecting the base of the tower. Alternative terms, more used in English, are mantlet wall or apron wall. In some cases, the keep could only be entered from the chemise, numerous examples exist of highly varied form, including the heavily fortified chemise of Château de Vincennes, or the more modest example at Provins, both in France. Some chemises are suggested to have developed from earlier motte and bailey defences. In later fortification, a chemise is a wall lined with a bastion, or any other bulwark of earth, for greater support and this article incorporates text from a publication now in the public domain, Chambers, Ephraim, ed. Chemise. Cyclopædia, or an Universal Dictionary of Arts and Sciences, james and John Knapton, et al
2.
Negligee
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It is a form of nightgown intended for wear at night and in the bedroom. It was introduced in France in the 18th century, where it mimicked the heavy style of womens day dresses of the time. By the 1920s, the negligee began to mimic womens satin single-layer evening dress of the period. The term negligee was used on a Royal Doulton run of ceramic figurines in 1927, showing women wearing what appears to be a one-piece knee-length silk or rayon slip, trimmed with lace. Modern negligees are often much looser and made of sheer and diaphanous fabrics and trimmed with lace or other fine material, multiple layers of fabric are often used. The modern negligee thus perhaps owes more to womens fine bedjackets or bed-capes and it spread to a mass market, benefitting from the introduction of cheap synthetic fabrics such as nylon and its finer successors. From the 1940s to the 1970s, the trend was for negligees to become shorter in length, negligees made from the 1940s to the 1970s are now collectible vintage items. In the UK in 2004, negligees accounted for four percent of womens nightwear sales. However, UK negligee sales are said to have been the fastest increasing sector of the market since 1998
3.
Undergarment
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Undergarments are items of clothing worn beneath outer clothes, usually in direct contact with the skin, although they may comprise more than a single layer. In cold weather, long underwear is sometimes worn to provide additional warmth, special types of undergarments have religious significance. Some items of clothing are designed as undergarments, while others, such as T-shirts, if made of suitable material or textile, some undergarments can serve as nightwear or swimsuits, and some are intended for sexual attraction or visual appeal. Undergarments are generally of two types, those that are worn to cover the torso and those that are worn to cover the waist and legs, different styles of undergarments are generally worn by females and males. Undergarments commonly worn by females today include bras and panties, while males often wear briefs, items commonly worn by both sexes include T-shirts, sleeveless shirts, bikini underwear, thongs, and G-strings. Undergarments are known by a number of terms, in the United States, womens underwear may be known as delicates due to the recommended washing machine cycle or because they are, simply put, delicate. Womens undergarments collectively are called lingerie and they also are called intimate clothing and intimates. An undershirt is a piece of underwear covering the torso, while underpants, drawers, terms for specific undergarments are shown in the table below. Not wearing underpants under outer clothing is known in American slang as freeballing for men, the act of a woman not wearing a bra is sometimes referred to as freeboobing. Underwear is worn for a variety of reasons and they keep outer garments from being soiled by perspiration, urine, semen, menstrual blood and feces. Womens brassieres provide support for the breasts, and mens briefs serve the function for the male genitalia. A corset may be worn as a garment to alter a womans body shape. For additional support and protection when playing sports, men often wear more tightly fitting underwear, including jockstraps and jockstraps with cup pocket and protective cup. Women may wear sports bras which provide support, thus increasing comfort. In cold climates, underwear may constitute an additional layer of clothing helping to keep the wearer warm, Underwear may also be used to preserve the wearers modesty – for instance, some women wear camisoles and slips under clothes that are sheer. Conversely, some types of underwear can be worn for sexual titillation, such as underwear, crotchless panties. Some items of clothing are designed exclusively as underwear, while others such as T-shirts, the suitability of underwear as outer clothing is, apart from the indoor or outdoor climate, largely dependent on societal norms, fashion and the requirements of the law. If made of material, some underwear can serve as nightwear or swimsuits
4.
Qamis
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Shalwar kameez, also spelled salwar kameez or shalwar qameez, is a traditional outfit originating in the Indian subcontinent. It is a term used to describe different styles of dress. The shalwar kameez can be worn by men and women, but styles differ by gender. The shalwar and the kameez are two garments which are combined to form the shalwar kameez, the shalwar, šalvār, sirwāl, salwar, selwar, shalvaar are a form of baggy trousers. Transliterations starting from Urdu, Lahnda, Persian, Pashto, Turkish languages use sh, Salwar is the spelling most commonly used in India. Transliterations starting from Punjabi often render the sibilant sound at the start of salwar/shalwar as an s, both spellings are found in common English usage. The shalwar spelling seems to be most common in Canada and the United Kingdom, the kameez or qamis is a shirt of varying length. Garments cut like the kameez are known in many cultures, 10th-century cotton shirts recovered from the Egyptian desert are cut much like the kameez or the contemporary Egyptian djellaba or jellabiya. The word kameez is originally an Arabic word and is also spelled with a Q. The shalwar are loose pajama-like trousers, the legs are wide at the top, and narrow at the ankle. The kameez is a shirt or tunic, often seen with a Western-style collar, however, for female apparel. The kameez might be worn with pajamas as well, either for fashion or comfort, some kameez styles have side seams, left open below the waist-line, giving the wearer greater freedom of movement. The kameez can be straight and flat, in an A shape design or flowing like a dress. Modern kameez styles are more likely to have European-inspired set-in sleeves, if the tailors taste or skill is displayed, this will be seen in the shape of the neckline and the decoration of the kameez. The kameez may be cut with a deep neckline, sewn in diaphanous fabrics, there are many styles of shalwar, the Peshawari shalwar, Balochi shalwar, Sindhi choreno and Punjabi shalwar. The following are some of the styles of shalwar kameez, the shalwar kameez known as the Anarkali suit is named after the court dancer from Lahore. This suit has a style which has become very popular. It is made up of a long, frock-style top and features a fitted bottom
5.
Hindi
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Hindi, or Modern Standard Hindi is a standardised and Sanskritised register of the Hindustani language. Along with the English language, Hindi written in the Devanagari script, is the language of the Government of India. It is also one of the 22 scheduled languages of the Republic of India, Hindi is the lingua franca of the so-called Hindi belt of India. Outside India, it is a language which is known as Fiji Hindi in Fiji, and is a recognised regional language in Mauritius, Trinidad and Tobago, Guyana. Hindi is the fourth most-spoken first language in the world, after Mandarin, apart from specialized vocabulary, Hindi is mutually intelligible with Standard Urdu, another recognized register of Hindustani. Part XVII of the Indian Constitution deals with Official Language, under Article 343, official language of the Union has been prescribed, which includes Hindi in Devanagari script and English. Gujarat High Court, in 2010, has observed that there was nothing on record to suggest that any provision has been made or order issued declaring Hindi as a language of India. Article 343 of the Indian constitution states The official language of the Union shall be Hindi in Devanagari script, the form of numerals to be used for the official purposes of the Union shall be the international form of Indian numerals. It was envisioned that Hindi would become the working language of the Union Government by 1965. Each may also designate a co-official language, in Uttar Pradesh, for instance, depending on the formation in power. Similarly, Hindi is accorded the status of language in the following Union Territories, Andaman & Nicobar Islands, Chandigarh, Dadra & Nagar Haveli, Daman & Diu. National-language status for Hindi is a long-debated theme, an Indian court clarified that Hindi is not the national language of India because the constitution does not mention it as such. Outside Asia, Hindi is a language in Fiji as per the 1997 Constitution of Fiji. It is spoken by 380,000 people in Fiji, Hindi is also spoken by a large population of Madheshis of Nepal. Hindi is quite easy to understand for some Pakistanis, who speak Urdu, apart from this, Hindi is spoken by the large Indian diaspora which hails from, or has its origin from the Hindi Belt of India. Like other Indo-Aryan languages, Hindi is considered to be a descendant of an early form of Sanskrit, through Sauraseni Prakrit. It has been influenced by Dravidian languages, Turkic languages, Persian, Arabic, Portuguese, Hindi emerged as Apabhramsha, a degenerated form of Prakrit, in the 7th century A. D. By the 10th century A. D. it became stable, Braj Bhasha, Bhojpuri, Awadhi, Khari Boli etc. are the dialects of Hindi
6.
Urdu
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Urdu is a persianized standard register of the Hindustani language. It is the language and lingua franca of Pakistan. It is also one of the 22 official languages recognized in the Constitution of India, hyderabad, Rampur, Bhopal and Lucknow are noted Urdu-speaking cities of India. Urdu is historically associated with the Muslims of the northern Indian subcontinent, apart from specialized vocabulary, Urdu is mutually intelligible with Standard Hindi, another recognized register of Hindustani. Urdu, like Hindi, is a form of Hindustani, Urdu developed under the influence of the Persian and Arabic languages, both of which have contributed a significant amount of vocabulary to formal speech. Around 99% of Urdu verbs have their roots in Sanskrit and Prakrit, Urdu words originating from Chagatai and Arabic were borrowed through Persian and hence are Persianized versions of the original words. For instance, the Arabic ta marbuta changes to he or te, nevertheless, contrary to popular belief, Urdu did not borrow from the Turkish language, but from Chagatai. Urdu and Turkish borrowed from Arabic and Persian, hence the similarity in pronunciation of many Urdu, Arabic influence in the region began with the late first-millennium Arab invasion of India in the 7th century. The Persian language was introduced into the subcontinent a few centuries later by various Persianized Central Asian Turkic and Afghan dynasties including that of the Delhi Sultanate. With the advent of the British Raj, Persian was no longer the language of administration but Hindustani, still written in the Persian script, the name Urdu was first used by the poet Ghulam Hamadani Mushafi around 1780. From the 13th century until the end of the 18th century Urdu was commonly known as Hindi, the language was also known by various other names such as Hindavi and Dehlavi. The communal nature of the language lasted until it replaced Persian as the language in 1837 and was made co-official. Urdu was promoted in British India by British policies to counter the previous emphasis on Persian and this triggered a Brahman backlash in northwestern India, which argued that the language should be written in the native Devanagari script. At independence, Pakistan established a highly Persianized literary form of Urdu as its national language, English has exerted a heavy influence on both as a co-official language. Owing to interaction with other languages, Urdu has become localized wherever it is spoken, similarly, the Urdu spoken in India can also be distinguished into many dialects like Dakhni of South India, and Khariboli of the Punjab region since recent times. Because of Urdus similarity to Hindi, speakers of the two languages can understand one another if both sides refrain from using specialized vocabulary. The syntax, morphology, and the vocabulary are essentially identical. Thus linguists usually count them as one language and contend that they are considered as two different languages for socio-political reasons
7.
Hindustani language
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Hindustani, historically also known as Hindavi, Dehlvi and Rekhta, is the lingua franca of North India and Pakistan. It is an Indo-Aryan language, deriving primarily from the Khariboli dialect of Delhi, before the Partition of the British Indian Empire, the terms Hindustani, Urdu, and Hindi were synonymous, all covered what would be called Urdu and Hindi today. Hindustani is also spoken by a number of people in Mauritius. Early forms of present-day Hindustani developed from the Middle Indo-Aryan apabhramsha vernaculars of present-day North India in the 7th–13th centuries. Amir Khusro, who lived in the 13th century CE during the Delhi Sultanate period in North India, used these forms in his writings, the Delhi Sultanate, which comprised several Turkic and Afghan dynasties that ruled from Delhi, was succeeded by the Mughal Empire in 1526. The basis in general for the introduction of Persian language into the subcontinent was set, from its earliest days, by various Persianised Central Asian Turkic, the term Hindustani was the name given to that variant of Khariboli. For socio-political reasons, though essentially the variant of Khariboli with Persian vocabulary, the more highly Persianised version later established as a language of the court was called Rekhta, or mixed. As an emerging common dialect, Hindustani absorbed large numbers of Persian, Arabic, and Turkic words and its development was centred on the poets of the Mughal courts of cities in Uttar Pradesh such as Delhi, Lucknow, and Agra. He continued, But it has all the magnitude and importance of separate language and it is linguistic result of Mohammedan invasions of eleventh & twelfth centuries and is spoken by many Hindus in North India and by Musalman population in all parts of India. Next to English it was the language of British Indian Empire, was commonly written in Arabic or Persian characters. When the British colonised the Indian subcontinent from the late 18th through to the late 19th century, they used the words Hindustani, Hindi and they developed it as the language of administration of British India, further preparing it to be the official language of modern India and Pakistan. However, with independence, use of the word Hindustani declined, being replaced by Hindi and Urdu. It has a literature of 500 years, with prose, poetry, religion & philosophy, under the Bahmani Kings and it is a living language, still prevalent all over the Deccan Plateau. Note that the term Hindustani has generally fallen out of usage in modern India, except to refer to Indian as a nationality. The term used to refer to it is Hindi or Urdu, depending on the religion of the speaker, in common usage in India, the term Hindi includes all these dialects except those at the Urdu end of the spectrum. Urdu is the language of Pakistan and an officially recognised regional language of India. It is also a language in the Indian states of Jammu and Kashmir, National Capital Territory of Delhi, Uttar Pradesh, Bihar. In a specific sense, Hindustani may be used to refer to the dialects and varieties used in speech, in contrast with the standardised Hindi
8.
Latin
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Latin is a classical language belonging to the Italic branch of the Indo-European languages. The Latin alphabet is derived from the Etruscan and Greek alphabets, Latin was originally spoken in Latium, in the Italian Peninsula. Through the power of the Roman Republic, it became the dominant language, Vulgar Latin developed into the Romance languages, such as Italian, Portuguese, Spanish, French, and Romanian. Latin, Italian and French have contributed many words to the English language, Latin and Ancient Greek roots are used in theology, biology, and medicine. By the late Roman Republic, Old Latin had been standardised into Classical Latin, Vulgar Latin was the colloquial form spoken during the same time and attested in inscriptions and the works of comic playwrights like Plautus and Terence. Late Latin is the language from the 3rd century. Later, Early Modern Latin and Modern Latin evolved, Latin was used as the language of international communication, scholarship, and science until well into the 18th century, when it began to be supplanted by vernaculars. Ecclesiastical Latin remains the language of the Holy See and the Roman Rite of the Catholic Church. Today, many students, scholars and members of the Catholic clergy speak Latin fluently and it is taught in primary, secondary and postsecondary educational institutions around the world. The language has been passed down through various forms, some inscriptions have been published in an internationally agreed, monumental, multivolume series, the Corpus Inscriptionum Latinarum. Authors and publishers vary, but the format is about the same, volumes detailing inscriptions with a critical apparatus stating the provenance, the reading and interpretation of these inscriptions is the subject matter of the field of epigraphy. The works of several hundred ancient authors who wrote in Latin have survived in whole or in part and they are in part the subject matter of the field of classics. The Cat in the Hat, and a book of fairy tales, additional resources include phrasebooks and resources for rendering everyday phrases and concepts into Latin, such as Meissners Latin Phrasebook. The Latin influence in English has been significant at all stages of its insular development. From the 16th to the 18th centuries, English writers cobbled together huge numbers of new words from Latin and Greek words, dubbed inkhorn terms, as if they had spilled from a pot of ink. Many of these words were used once by the author and then forgotten, many of the most common polysyllabic English words are of Latin origin through the medium of Old French. Romance words make respectively 59%, 20% and 14% of English, German and those figures can rise dramatically when only non-compound and non-derived words are included. Accordingly, Romance words make roughly 35% of the vocabulary of Dutch, Roman engineering had the same effect on scientific terminology as a whole
9.
Lingerie
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Lingerie are womens undergarments, and may imply their being fashionable and alluring. Lingerie undergarments use flexible, stretchy, sheer, or decorative materials like Lycra, nylon, polyester, satin, lace, silk, certain cotton or synthetic undergarments are also lingerie. The word lingerie derives from the French word linge, meaning linen, so faire le linge, comes to mean do the laundry. In French the word applies to all undergarments for either sex. In English it means womens underwear or nightclothes, lingerie as a word was first used to refer to underwear and bras in 1922. Informal usage suggests visually appealing or even erotic clothing, although most lingerie is designed to be worn by women, some manufactures now design lingerie for men. The concept of lingerie is a visually appealing undergarment that was developed during the nineteenth century. Lady Duff-Gordon of Lucile was a pioneer in developing lingerie that freed women from more restrictive corsets, through the first half of the 20th century, women wore underwear for three primary reasons, to alter their outward shape, for hygienic reasons, or for modesty. Before the invention of crinoline, womens underwear was very large. During the late 19th century, corsets became smaller, less bulky and constricting, when the First World War broke out, women found themselves filling in mens work roles, creating a demand for more practical undergarments. Manufacturers began to use lighter and more breathable fabrics, in 1935 brassières were updated with padded cups to flatter small breasts and three years later underwire bras were introduced that gave a protruding bustline. There was also a return to a small waist achieved with girdles, the 1940s woman was thin, but had curvaceous hips and breasts that were pointy and shapely. In the 1960s the female silhouette was liberated along with social mores, the look was adolescent breasts, slim hips, and extreme thinness. As the 20th century progressed, underwear became smaller and more form fitting, in the 1960s, lingerie manufacturers such as Fredericks of Hollywood begin to glamorize lingerie. The lingerie industry expanded in the 21st century with designs that doubled as outerwear, the French refer to this as dessous-dessus which basically means innerwear as outerwear. Designers are putting greater emphasis on rich-looking fabrics, laces, embroideries and brighter, the global lingerie market in 2003 was estimated at $29 billion, while in 2005, Bras accounted for 56 per cent of the lingerie market and briefs represented 29 per cent. Also predominant are French lingerie houses, including Chantelle, Aubade and Simone Pérèle, each with a long history and a commitment to innovation and French style. Since the mid-1990s, women have had more choice in bra sizes, in the UK, for instance, the media is fuelling an awareness campaign about the need for each woman to have a proper bra fitting before every purchase
10.
Babydoll
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A babydoll is a short, sometimes sleeveless, loose-fitting nightgown or negligee intended as nightwear for women. It sometimes has formed called a bralette for cleavage with an attached. The garment is often trimmed with lace, ruffles, appliques, marabou, bows, sometimes it is made of sheer or translucent fabric such as nylon or chiffon or silk. The creation of the super-short nightgown is attributed to the American lingerie designer Sylvia Pedlar, although her designs became known as babydolls, Pedlar disliked the name and did not use it. The name was popularized by the 1956 movie Baby Doll, starring Carroll Baker in the role as a 19-year-old nymphet. This marked the beginning of the popularity of the style for adults. Baby Doll pajamas in the 1950s through the 1960s consisted of a top, in the 1970s through the 1990s, the bloomer bottom was replaced by closer fitting briefs with elastic waist and legs. The most recent versions of baby doll pajamas have eliminated the elastic on the legs, babydolls became a prominent part of the kinderwhore look during the early-to-mid-1990s, due to the popularity of riot Grrrl and grunge performers such as Courtney Love and Kat Bjelland. Babydolls are now considered an item of adult apparel, often classified as a form of lingerie. Adult babydolls are quite different from the infant babydolls, they expose the womans legs. The gown is often sold as a set with matching panties, styles of the same general length but not intended to emphasize sex appeal are sometimes called shortie nightgowns. Babydolls are available in a wide variety of styles that many lingerie retailers consider babydolls a distinct department. Modern babydolls often vary considerably from the styles of the 1960s and 1970s, babydoll negligees from the 1950s to the early 1980s are now collectible vintage items. Some babydolls open in front and resemble a robe or peignoir, short daywear dresses of a similar style are sometimes called babydoll dresses, the name is sometimes two words, baby doll, and sometimes hyphenated, baby-doll. Some styles are similar to what is worn by some infants, the gown or top is short enough that diapers may be easily changed. An alternative origin for the style may be the lace-trimmed shortie bedjackets, in the 21st century, babydolls have become popular as bridal lingerie. They are more affordable than a bridal corset and often offer a choice of designs. Miniskirt Chemise Bibliography Barbier, Muriel & Boucher, Shazia
11.
Corset
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A corset is a garment worn to hold and train the torso into a desired shape for aesthetic or medical purposes. Both men and women are known to wear corsets, though this item was for years an integral part of womens wardrobes. Since the late 20th century, the industry has borrowed the term corset to refer to tops which, to varying degrees. While these modern corsets and corset tops often feature lacing or boning and generally imitate a historical style of corsets, they have little, if any. Genuine corsets are made by a corsetmaker and are frequently fitted to the individual wearer. The word corset is derived from the Old French word corps and the diminutive of body, the craft of corset construction is known as corsetry, as is the general wearing of them. Someone who makes corsets is a corsetier or corsetière, or sometimes simply a corsetmaker, in 1828, the word corset came into general use in the English language. The word was used in The Ladies Magazine to describe a quilted waistcoat that the French called un corset and it was used to differentiate the lighter corset from the heavier stays of the period. The most common and well-known use of corsets is to slim the body, for women, this most frequently emphasizes a curvy figure by reducing the waist and thereby exaggerating the bust and hips. However, in some periods, corsets have been worn to achieve a tubular straight-up-and-down shape, for men, corsets are more customarily used to slim the figure. An overbust corset encloses the torso, extending from just under the arms toward the hips, an underbust corset begins just under the breasts and extends down toward the hips. A longline corset – either overbust or underbust – extends past the iliac crest, a longline corset is ideal for those who want increased stability, have longer torsos, or want to smooth out their hips. A standard length corset will stop short of the iliac crest and is ideal for those who want increased flexibility or have a shorter torso, some corsets, in very rare instances, reach the knees. A shorter kind of corset that covers the waist area, is called a waist cincher, a corset may also include garters to hold up stockings, alternatively, a separate garter belt may be worn for that. Traditionally, a corset supports the visible dress and spreads the pressure from large dresses, such as the crinoline, at times, a corset cover is used to protect outer clothes from the corset and to smooth the lines of the corset. The original corset cover was worn under the corset to provide a layer between it and the body. Corsets were not worn next to the skin, possibly due to difficulties with laundering these items during the 19th century, as they had steel boning, the corset cover was generally in the form of a light chemise, made from cotton lawn or silk. Modern corset wearers may wear corset liners for many of the same reasons and those who lace their corsets tightly use the liners to prevent burn on their skin from the laces
12.
Petticoat
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A petticoat or underskirt is an article of clothing, specifically an undergarment to be worn under a skirt or a dress. The petticoat is a separate garment hanging from the waist, in historical contexts, petticoat refers to any separate skirt worn with a gown, bedgown, bodice or jacket, these petticoats are not, strictly speaking, underwear as they were made to be seen. In both historical and modern contexts, petticoat refers to skirt-like undergarments worn for warmth or to give the skirt or dress the desired fashionable shape, in this context a petticoat may be called a waist slip or underskirt or half slip, with petticoat restricted to extremely full garments. Petticoat can also refer to a slip in the UK. Petticoat is the name in English for any underskirt worn as part of non-Western clothing such as the lehenga with the sari. The practice of wearing petticoats as undergarments was well established by 1585, Petticoats were worn throughout history by women who wanted to have the currently fashionable shape created by their clothing. The petticoats, if sufficiently full or stiff, would hold the overskirt out in a domed shape. It would also complement the large bust. Elaborately decorated petticoats were worn under open-fronted gowns and looped overskirts from the mid-16th century and these ankle-length petticoats remained a rural fashion, especially in the UK, into the 19th century and are a part of the traditional Welsh costume. In the 18th century, among the upper class women of Europe and America, in the early 19th century, dresses became narrower and simpler with much less lingerie. Then, as the waltz became popular in the 1820s, full-skirted gowns with petticoats were revived in Europe, by the mid 19th century, petticoats were worn over hoops, which were placed over other underwear like a corset cover, a corset, and drawers. The popular novel Gone with the Wind provides considerable, detailed descriptions of these fashions, in the 1939 film adaptation, the character played by Vivien Leigh gives a good idea of the layers of petticoats and underwear that were worn in the 1860s. The sheer weight of the clothing, along with the tightness of the corsets, the use of multiple petticoats continued to be popular until the 1870s, when the bustle was introduced, resulting in a return of narrower skirts. Some full-skirted gowns with petticoats were revived in the 1890s into the early 20th century, the Gibson Girl look with white blouses and long, narrow skirts was very popular during the late 19th and early 20th century. For the first two decades of the 20th century, multiple petticoats fell out of fashion, narrow, sometimes tight, then, in the late 1920s, chiffon dresses with several sheer petticoats became fashionable. With the Great Depression in the 1930s, narrow skirts returned and petticoats again were unpopular until the end of the decade when revived for some evening, prom, world War II, with its rationing and general shortage of materials, brought an end to petticoats. Petticoats were revived by Christian Dior in his full-skirted New Look of 1947 and tiered, ruffled, stiffened petticoats remained extremely popular during the 1950s, most of the petticoats were netlike crinoline, sometimes made of horsehair. Increasingly, nylon chiffon, taffeta, and organdy were used in petticoats, many department stores carried an extensive variety of styles and colors of petticoats until the early 1960s
13.
Tunic
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A tunic is any of several types of garment for the body, usually simple in style, reaching from the shoulders to a length somewhere between the hips and the ankles. The name derives from the Latin tunica, the garment worn by both men and women in Ancient Rome, which in turn was based on earlier Greek garments that covered people around their waist. The Roman tunica was adopted by the Roman citizens in the 3rd century BC and it was worn by citizens and non-citizens alike, citizens, though, might wear it under the toga, especially at formal occasions. The length of the garment, the presence or lack of stripes, as well as their width and ornamentation, Roman senators, for example, used the Laticlavus, with broad purple stripes, and members of the equestrian class wore the Angusticlavia, with narrower stripes. Soldiers, slaves and manual workers generally had tunics to a little above the knee, the tunic or chiton was worn as a shirt or gown by both genders among the ancient Romans. The body garment was loose-fitting for males, usually beginning at the neck, a womans garment could be either close fitting or loose, beginning at the neck and extending over a skirt or skirts. Tunics were also worn in ancient Greece, whence the Roman version was adopted, later Greek and Roman tunics were an evolution from the very similar chiton, chitoniskos, and exomis all of which can be considered versions of the garment. In Ancient Greece, a persons tunic was decorated at the hem-line to represent the city-state in which he lived, similar tunics were eventually taken up by the Romans, and found their way into the Byzantine Empire. After the fall of the Western Roman Empire, the long sleeved Celto-Germanic tunic continued to be worn, being used by both Vikings and Normans, the garment continued as a general male garment into the Middle Ages, still being used in Norway as late as the 17th century. The tunic continued to be the basic garment of the Byzantine Romans of both throughout the medieval period. Except for the military or riding-dress, men and women of higher status wore tunics that came down to the ankles, tunics were often dyed or richly embroidered, although the plainer ones could be used when layering different types. Beyond the reduced empire, the continued to be worn with varying sleeve. Often reaching the knees or ankles, it was worn over underclothes consisting of a shirt. It may be accompanied by hose, wool and Linen were common fabrics used, though the wealthy sometimes wore fancy silk tunics, or a lesser fabric with silk trim. Tunics worn during the Early Middle Ages often featured decorative embroidery or tablet-woven braids along the neck, hem and this was the case, for instance, with tunics worn by both rich and poor Anglo-Saxons before the Norman Conquest. Around 1830, small boys began to be dressed in sashed or belted tunics over trousers, during the Crimean War in the 1850s, it was realized that the waist length jackets which had been worn by British soldiers since Napoleonic times were unsuitable for fighting in winter conditions. A new longer jacket was introduced which reached down to the mid thigh and this type of jacket soon became standard for most armies. In Western culture, its use primarily in a religious
14.
Middle Ages
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In the history of Europe, the Middle Ages or Medieval Period lasted from the 5th to the 15th century. It began with the fall of the Western Roman Empire and merged into the Renaissance, the Middle Ages is the middle period of the three traditional divisions of Western history, classical antiquity, the medieval period, and the modern period. The medieval period is subdivided into the Early, High. Population decline, counterurbanisation, invasion, and movement of peoples, the large-scale movements of the Migration Period, including various Germanic peoples, formed new kingdoms in what remained of the Western Roman Empire. In the seventh century, North Africa and the Middle East—once part of the Byzantine Empire—came under the rule of the Umayyad Caliphate, although there were substantial changes in society and political structures, the break with classical antiquity was not complete. The still-sizeable Byzantine Empire survived in the east and remained a major power, the empires law code, the Corpus Juris Civilis or Code of Justinian, was rediscovered in Northern Italy in 1070 and became widely admired later in the Middle Ages. In the West, most kingdoms incorporated the few extant Roman institutions, monasteries were founded as campaigns to Christianise pagan Europe continued. The Franks, under the Carolingian dynasty, briefly established the Carolingian Empire during the later 8th, the Crusades, first preached in 1095, were military attempts by Western European Christians to regain control of the Holy Land from Muslims. Kings became the heads of centralised nation states, reducing crime and violence, intellectual life was marked by scholasticism, a philosophy that emphasised joining faith to reason, and by the founding of universities. Controversy, heresy, and the Western Schism within the Catholic Church paralleled the conflict, civil strife. Cultural and technological developments transformed European society, concluding the Late Middle Ages, the Middle Ages is one of the three major periods in the most enduring scheme for analysing European history, classical civilisation, or Antiquity, the Middle Ages, and the Modern Period. Medieval writers divided history into periods such as the Six Ages or the Four Empires, when referring to their own times, they spoke of them as being modern. In the 1330s, the humanist and poet Petrarch referred to pre-Christian times as antiqua, leonardo Bruni was the first historian to use tripartite periodisation in his History of the Florentine People. Bruni and later argued that Italy had recovered since Petrarchs time. The Middle Ages first appears in Latin in 1469 as media tempestas or middle season, in early usage, there were many variants, including medium aevum, or middle age, first recorded in 1604, and media saecula, or middle ages, first recorded in 1625. The alternative term medieval derives from medium aevum, tripartite periodisation became standard after the German 17th-century historian Christoph Cellarius divided history into three periods, Ancient, Medieval, and Modern. The most commonly given starting point for the Middle Ages is 476, for Europe as a whole,1500 is often considered to be the end of the Middle Ages, but there is no universally agreed upon end date. English historians often use the Battle of Bosworth Field in 1485 to mark the end of the period
15.
Gown
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A long, loosely fitted gown called a Banyan was worn by men in the 18th century as an informal coat. In womens fashion, gown was used in English for any one-piece garment, compare this to the short gowns or bedgowns of the later 18th century. Only in the last few decades has gown lost its meaning of a womans garment in the United States in favor of dress. Today, the usage is chiefly British, except in historical senses or in cases, such as evening gown. Formal gowns generally have a fitted bodice and a full skirt. Bibliography Arnold, Janet, Patterns of Fashion 2, Englishwomens Dresses and Their Construction c. 1860–1940, Wace 1966, revised metric edition, Drama Books 1977. ISBN 0-89676-027-8 Ashelford, Jane, The Art of Dress, Clothing and Society 1500–1914, ISBN 0-8109-6317-5 Black, J. Anderson and Madge Garland, A History of Fashion, Morrow,1975. Town and Gown Relations, A Handbook of Best Practices, McFarland and Company, publishers, Jefferson, North Carolina, USA, and London, England, UK
16.
Robe
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A robe is a loose-fitting outer garment. Unlike garments described as capes or cloaks, robes usually have sleeves, the English word robe derives from Middle English robe, borrowed from Old French robe, itself taken from the Frankish word *rouba, and is related to the word rob. A gown worn as part of the attire of a judge or barrister, a wide variety of long, flowing religious dress including pulpit robes and the robes worn by various types of monks. A gown worn as part of the dress of a peer or royalty. Any of several womens fashions of French origin, as robe à langlaise, a gown worn in fantasy literature and role-playing games by wizards and other magical characters. A bathrobe worn mostly after bathing or swimming, any long flowing garment, for example, a cassock is sometimes called a robe, although a cassock is close-fitting
17.
Doublet (clothing)
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The doublet was hip length or waist length and worn over the shirt or drawers. Until the end of the 15th century, the doublet was worn under another layer of clothing such as a gown, mantle, originally it was a mere stitched and quilted lining, worn under a hauberk or cuirass to prevent bruising and chafing. Doublets were frequently opened to the waistline in a deep V, the edges might be left free or laced across the shirt front. If there was left it might be filled with a stomacher. By the 1520s, the edges of the doublet met at the center front, then, like many other originally practical items in the history of mens wear, from the late 15th century onward it became elaborated enough to be seen on its own. A similar jacket, the sherwani, is today in India. Throughout the 300 years of its use, the served the same purpose, to give fashionable shape and padding to the body, to support the hose by providing ties. The only thing that changed about the doublet over its history was its style, the doublet developed from the padded garments worn under armour, such as the gambeson, aketon, and arming doublet. Doublets of the 14th and 15th centuries were generally hip-length, sometimes, shorter, worn over the shirt and hose, with a houppelande or other form of overgown. From the late 14th century, doublets were cut and padded to give the wearer an egg-shaped or pigeon-breasted silhouette, in the early Elizabethan period, doublets were padded over the belly with bombast in a pouter pigeon or peascod silhouette. Sleeve attachments at the shoulder were disguised by decorative wings, tabs, or piccadills, padding gradually fell out of fashion again, and the doublet became close-fitting with a deep V-waistline. More images, Edward VI in an elaborately trimmed and pinked, long-skirted late Tudor doublet under a crimson gown with hanging sleeves, martin Frobisher in a peascod-bellied doublet under a buff jerkin. By the 17th century, doublets were short-waisted, a typical sleeve of this period was full and slashed to show the shirt beneath, a later style was full and paned or slashed to just below the elbow and snug below. Decorative ribbon points were pulled through eyelets on the breeches and the waist of the doublet to keep the breeches in place, and were tied in elaborate bows. 1500–1550 in fashion 1550–1600 in fashion 1600–1650 in fashion 1650-1700 in fashion Janet Arnold, Patterns of Fashion, the cut and construction of clothes for men and women 1560-1620, pajama 1985
18.
Regency era
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The Regency in Great Britain was a period when King George III was deemed unfit to rule and his son ruled as his proxy as Prince Regent. On the death of George III in 1820, the Prince Regent became George IV, the term Regency can refer to various stretches of time, some are longer period than the decade of the formal Regency which lasted from 1811–1820. The Regency era ended in 1837 when Queen Victoria succeeded William IV, the Regency is noted for its elegance and achievements in the fine arts and architecture. This era encompassed a time of social, political. War was waged with Napoleon and on other fronts, affecting commerce both at home and internationally as well as politics, despite the bloodshed and warfare the Regency was also a period of great refinement and cultural achievement, shaping and altering the societal structure of Britain as a whole. One of the greatest patrons of the arts and architecture was the Prince Regent himself, upper class society flourished in a sort of mini-Renaissance of culture and refinement. Naturally, this required dipping into the treasury and the Regent, in many ways there was a dark side to the beauty and fashion in England at this time. In the dingier, less affluent areas of London, thievery, womanising, gambling, the existence of rookeries, the population boom—the population increased from just under a million in 1801 to one and a quarter million by 1820—created a wild, roiling, volatile, and vibrant scene. The formation of the Regency after the retirement of George III saw the end of a pious and reserved society. This change was influenced by the Regent himself, who was entirely removed from the machinations of politics. Driving these changes was not only money and rebellious pampered youth, in 1814 The Times adopted steam printing. By this method it could now print 1,100 sheets every hour, not 200 as before—a fivefold increase in production capability,1811 George Augustus Frederick, Prince of Wales began his nine-year tenure as regent and became known as The Prince Regent. This sub-period of the Georgian era began the formal Regency, the Duke of Wellington held off the French at Fuentes dOnoro and Albuhera in the Peninsular War. The Prince Regent held a fete at 9,00 p. m, june 19,1811, at Carlton House in celebration of his assumption of the Regency. 1812 Spencer Perceval assassinated in the House of Commons, final shipment of the Elgin Marbles arrived in England. Sarah Siddons retired from the stage, shipping and territory disputes started the War of 1812 between the United Kingdom and the United States. The British were victorious over French armies at the Battle of Salamanca), charles John Huffam Dickens English writer and social critic of the Victorian era was born on 7 February 18121813 Pride and Prejudice by Jane Austen was published. William Hedleys Puffing Billy, a steam locomotive, ran on smooth rails
19.
Bra
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A bra or brassiere is a form-fitting undergarment designed to support a womans breasts. Swimsuits, camisoles and backless dresses may be made with built-in support, bras are complex garments made of many parts. Most come in 36 sizes, standards and methods of measurement vary widely, the term brassiere was used by the Evening Herald in Syracuse, New York, in 1893. It gained wider acceptance in 1904 when the DeBevoise Company used it in their advertising copy—although the word is actually Norman French for a childs undershirt, in French, it is called a soutien-gorge. It and other early versions resembled a camisole stiffened with boning, vogue magazine first used the term brassiere in 1907, and by 1911 the word had made its way into the Oxford English Dictionary. On 3 November 1914, the newly formed U. S. patent category for brassieres was inaugurated with the first patent issued to Mary Phelps Jacob, in the 1930s brassiere was gradually shortened to bra. Wearing a garment to support the breasts may date back to ancient Greece, women wore an apodesmos, later stēthodesmē, mastodesmos and mastodeton, all meaning breast-band, a band of wool or linen that was wrapped across the breasts and tied or pinned at the back. Fragments of linen textiles found in East Tyrol in Austria dated to between 1440 and 1485 are believed to have been bras. Two of them had made from two pieces of linen sewn with fabric that extended to the bottom of the torso with a row of six eyelets for fastening with a lace or string. One had two straps and was decorated with lace in the cleavage. From the 16th century, the undergarments of wealthier women in the Western world were dominated by the corset, women have played a large part in the design and manufacture of the bra, accounting for half the patents filed. The Dresden-based German Christine Hardt patented the first modern brassiere in 1899, sigmund Lindauer from Stuttgart-Bad Cannstatt, Germany, developed a brassiere for mass production in 1912 and patented it in 1913. It was mass-produced by Mechanischen Trikotweberei Ludwig Maier und Cie. in Böblingen, in the United States, Mary Phelps Jacob received a patent in 1914 for the first brassiere design that is recognized as the basis for modern bras. Mass production in the century made the garment widely available to women in the United States, England, Western Europe. Metal shortages in World War I encouraged the end of the corset, brassieres were initially manufactured by small production companies and supplied to retailers. The term cup was not used until 1916, and manufacturers relied on stretchable cups to accommodate different sized breasts. Women with larger or pendulous breasts had the choice of bras, built-up backs, wedge-shaped inserts between the cups, wider straps, power Lastex, firm bands under the cup. Camp and Company correlated the size and pendulousness of breasts to letters A through D, camps advertising featured letter-labeled profiles of breasts in the February 1933 issue of Corset and Underwear Review
20.
Girdle
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The girdle, in the 8th or 9th century, was said to resemble an ancient Levitical Jewish vestment, and in that era, was not visible. In 800 AD, the girdle began to be worn by Christian deacons in the Eastern Church. The girdle, for men, symbolizes preparation and readiness to serve, for example, the hagiographical account of Saint George and the Dragon mentions the evildoer being tamed with the sign of the cross and a girdle handed to Saint George by a virgin. Since the 20th century, the word also has been used to define an undergarment made of elasticized fabric that was worn by women. It is a foundation garment that encircles the lower torso, perhaps extending below the hips. It may be worn for aesthetic or medical reasons, in sports or medical treatment, a girdle may be worn as a compression garment. This form of womens foundation wear replaced the corset in popularity, the Strophium, Taenia, or Mitra occurs in many figures. In the small bronze Pallas of the Villa Albani, and in figures on the Hamilton Vases, are three cordons with a knot, detached from two ends of the girdle, which is fixed under the bosom. This girdle forms under the breast a knot of ribbon, sometimes in the form of a rose, upon the youngest the ends of the girdle pass over the shoulders, and upon the back, as they do upon four Caryatides found at Monte Portio. This part of the dress the ancients called, at least in the time of Isidore, the girdle was omitted by both sexes in mourning. Often when the tunic was very long, and would otherwise be entangled by the feet, the tunic of the Greek males was almost always confined by a girdle. Girdles of iron, to prevent obesity, were worn by some of the Britons, from the Druidical eras the cure of diseases, especially those of difficult parturition, were ascribed to wearing certain girdles. Among the Anglo-Saxons, it was used by both sexes, by the men to confine their tunic, and support the sword and we find it richly embroidered, and of white leather. The leather strap was worn by monks. As a Christian liturgical vestment, the girdle is a long, the Parsons Handbook describes the girdle as being made generally of white linen rope, and may have a tassel at each end. Long is a convenient size if it is used double, one end being then turned into a noose. The girdle, however, may be coloured, Christian monastics would often hang religious texts, such as the Bible or Breviary, from their girdles and these became known as girdle books. In addition, they would often knot the ends of the girdle thrice, in order to represent the vows of poverty, chastity and it will be good for those servants whose master finds them watching when he comes
21.
Slip (clothing)
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A slip is a womans undergarment worn beneath a dress or skirt to help it hang smoothly and to prevent chafing of the skin from coarse fabrics such as wool. Slips are also worn for warmth, and to protect fine fabrics from perspiration, a full slip hangs from the shoulders, usually by means of narrow straps, and extends from the breast to the fashionable skirt length. A half slip hangs from the waist and it may also be called a waist slip or more rarely a petticoat. Slips are often worn to prevent the show through of intimate undergarments such as panties or a brassiere, a slip may also be used to prevent a silhouette of the legs showing through clothing when standing in front of a bright light source. In very warm and/or humid climates a slip made from 100% cotton may be desired, slips fall into two major categories. A full slip is hung from the shoulders by straps that extend down to the top of the breast area. Full slips come in a variety of lengths, some extend down to the thigh, some to just above the knees, or just below the knees. A waist slip, sometimes referred to as a slip, is held on to the body around the waist by means of an elastic waistband. The waist slip is also available in the lengths as the aforementioned full slip. Waist slips that extend down to just above the ankle are often called formal, mini slips are yet another size option for waist slips. They were first introduced in the 1960s to wear under a mini skirt, american Maid manufactured waist slips that had vents and a rear zipper in addition to the elastic waistband. These slips were made of 50% nylon and 50% dacron polyester, as an alternative to the full slip, a waist slip with a matching camisole can be worn. There is also a type of slip designed to be worn under pants known as pettipants, in addition to pants, a pettipant may also be worn under a dress or skirt, and like slips, they are mainly made of nylon. Many slips have floral lace at the hem and/or the vents or sideslits, some of the older slips have decorations, such as a butterfly or flowers sewn into the fabric of the slip, and a pillowtab was also added to the waistband of a waist slip. The vast majority of slips are made of 100% nylon, while others are made from polyester, rayon, acetate, still, there are others made of blends, and the label of the garment might read, for example, 40% nylon, 35% rayon, 25% polyester. Nylon slips are often shiny in appearance, and are smooth to the touch, while polyester slips can even be more shiny with a real slippery feel. Although charmeuse slips have very attractive eye appeal, they are not as durable as nylon slips, slips made in the 1940s were mainly made of 100% rayon due to the war effort. In the late 1940s, some nylon slips began to appear on the market, in the 1960s, slips were offered in a much more variety of colours, including multi-coloured slips
22.
Panties
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Panties in American English are a form of underwear worn by women. Panties are most often form-fitting, but may also be loose, typical components include an elastic waistband, a crotch panel to cover the genital area, and a pair of leg openings that, like the waistband, are often made of elastic. Various materials are used, but are chosen to be breathable. In Australia, mens underpants are often referred to as undies, the term is little used in the United States and Canada, where the term panties is usually favoured. In the UK, the pants is also used for both men and womens underwear. Panties are classified into various styles based on such as the amount of rear coverage, width at the sides. These categories are not necessarily distinct and usage may vary somewhat among brands, Briefs rise to the waist, or just below the navel, classic briefs feature sides that extend below the hip. Sometimes these are called granny panties by young women, high-cut briefs are designed with sides that are somewhat narrower. Control briefs are designed to offer support while giving a slimmer appearance and this type usually contains a stretch material such as spandex and may extend above the waist. Hipsters are worn lower down on the body, with the waistband around the hips, boyleg are styled after mens boxer briefs and have short legs extending below the crotch. Bikinis, like hipsters, sit at hip level, but the fabric of the sections is narrower. The crotch is extended to the back of the wearer and a strip of fabric fits between the buttocks, becoming wider towards the top. The G-string has a string at the back, which connects the crotch to the waistband. Panties are made of a variety of materials and fabrics, including satin, silk, PVC, cotton, nylon, mesh, lace, rawhide, leather, latex, lycra, and polyester. Construction typically consists of two pieces that are joined by seams at the crotch and sides, a gusset is often in the crotch, with the waistband. If wearing low shapewear, or a girdle, with attached garters, the earliest known use of underwear that resembles modern panties dates back to 4,400 B. C. during the Badari period in Egypt. Statuettes found in Badari tombs show the modern panty as it is known today, most modern cultures have created their own style of underwear, but modern panties closely resemble those that adorn Badarian statuettes. Bloomers Camiknickers French knickers Going commando Pantalettes Underwear fetishism Media related to Womens knickers at Wikimedia Commons
23.
T-shirt
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A T-shirt is a style of unisex fabric shirt, named after the T shape of the body and sleeves. It is normally associated with short sleeves, a round neck line known as a crew neck, T-shirts are generally made of a light, inexpensive fabric, and are easy to clean. Typically made of textile in a stockinette, or jersey. The majority of versions have a body made from a continuously woven tube, on a circular loom. The manufacture of T-shirts has become automated, and may include fabric cutting by laser or water jet. The T-shirt evolved from undergarments used in the 19th century, a V-neck T-shirt has a V-shaped neckline, as opposed to the round neckline of the more common crew neck shirt. The T-shirt evolved from undergarments used in the 19th century, first, the one-piece union suit underwear was cut into separate top and bottom garments, with the top long enough to tuck under the waistband of the bottoms. With and without buttons, they were adopted by miners and stevedores during the late 19th century as a convenient covering for hot environments. As slip-on garments without buttons, the earliest T-shirt dates back to sometime between the 1898 Spanish–American War and 1913, when the U. S. Navy began issuing them as undergarments and these were a crew-necked, short-sleeved, white cotton undershirt to be worn under a uniform. It became common for sailors and Marines in work parties, the early submarines and they soon became popular as a bottom layer of clothing for workers in various industries, including agriculture. The T-shirt was easily fitted, easily cleaned, and inexpensive, boys shirts were made in various colors and patterns. The word T-shirt became part of American English by the 1920s, following World War II, it became common to see veterans wearing their uniform trousers with their T-shirts as casual clothing. The shirts became more popular in the 1950s after Marlon Brando wore one in A Streetcar Named Desire, finally achieving status as fashionable, stand-alone. Often boys wore them while doing chores and playing outside, eventually opening up the idea of wearing them as general-purpose casual clothing, Printed T-shirts were in limited use by 1942 when an Air Corps Gunnery School T-shirt appeared on the cover of Life magazine. In the 1960s, printed T-shirts gained popularity for self-expression as well for advertisements, protests, current versions are available in many different designs and fabrics, and styles include crew-neck and V-neck shirts. T-shirts are among the most worn garments of clothing used today, T-shirts are especially popular with branding for companies or merchandise, as they are inexpensive to make and purchase. T-shirts were originally worn as undershirts, but are now worn frequently as the piece of clothing on the top half of the body, other than possibly a brassiere or, rarely. T-shirts have also become a medium for self-expression and advertising, with any combination of words, art
24.
Smock-frock
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A smock-frock or smock is an outer garment traditionally worn by rural workers, especially shepherds and waggoners, in parts of England and Wales from the late 18th century. Today, the word refers to a loose overgarment worn to protect ones clothing. The traditional smock-frock is made of linen or wool and varies from thigh-length to mid-calf length. The round smock is a style with an open neckline. A feature of Sussex smocks or round frocks is the lack of decoration, instead there is fine embroidery on the yoke, collar, cuffs. Sussex smocks were thought to be the most elaborate of smocks, the shirt smock or Surrey smock is styled like a mans shirt, with a collar and a short placket opening in the front. The coat smock worn by Welsh shepherds is long and buttons up the front in the manner of a coat and it was often oversized to midthigh. What is certain is that the fully developed smock-frock resembles a melding of the two older garments, the spread of the smock-frock matches a general decrease in agricultural wages and living standards in these areas in the second half of the 18th century. The smocks were cheaper than other forms of outer garments, and were durable and washable. Most of this embroidery was done in heavy linen thread, often in the color as the smock. During World War II, military parachutists wore wind proof jump smocks primarily to cover equipment that may have caused the parachutist to be stuck in a narrow doorway. German parachutists wore the Knochensack, British parachutists wore the Denison smock whilst US Marine paramarines wore a jump smock as well. Today the name smock is still used for military combat jackets, particularly in the UK, examples include DPM Parachute Smock, that replaced the Denison Smock, the Canadian Para Smock and Smock Windproof DPM. The Walloon bleu sårot, is a dark blue worn by men in parts of Belgium as part of National dress. The Lèine bhàn was a type of smock worn to church by Scottish men who had broken the law. Apron Artistic dress movement Chemise/Smock Embroidery Frock Frock coat Smock mill de Marly, Diana, Working Dress, A History of Occupational Clothing, Batsford,1986, the Farmers or Workmans Smock Archived June 19,2002, at the Wayback Machine
25.
Camisole
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A camisole is a sleeveless undergarment for women, normally extending to the waist. The camisole is usually made of satin, nylon, or cotton, historically, camisole referred to jackets of various kinds, including overshirts, womens négligées and sleeved jackets worn by men. In modern usage a camisole or cami is a loose-fitting sleeveless womans undergarment which covers the top part of the body but is shorter than a chemise. A camisole normally extends to the waist but is sometimes cropped to expose the midriff, camisoles are manufactured from light materials, commonly cotton-based, occasionally satin or silk, or stretch fabrics such as lycra, nylon, or spandex. A camisole typically has thin spaghetti straps and can be worn over a brassiere or without one, since 1989, some camisoles have come with a built-in underwire bra or other support which eliminates the need for a bra among those who prefer one. Starting around the 2000s, camisoles have been known to be used as outerwear, a variety of sleeveless body shaping undergarments have been derived from the camisole shape, offering medium control of the bust, waist and/or abdomen. Such control camisoles are the most casual of shaping garments, covering the torso from above the chest to at or below the waist. They look similar to tight-fitting cotton or silk camisoles, but the straps are usually wider, the longer. Babydoll Basque Brassiere Bustier Camiknickers Corset Barbier, Muriel & Boucher, ISBN 0-85670-901-8 The Free Library citations for camisole in Thackeray, Charlotte Brontë, and Somerset Maugham
26.
Kirtle
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A kirtle is a garment worn by men and women in the Middle Ages or, later, a one-piece garment worn by women from the later Middle Ages into the Baroque period. The kirtle was typically worn over a chemise or smock which acted as a slip, kirtles were part of fashionable attire into the middle sixteenth century, and remained part of country or middle-class clothing into the seventeenth century. Kirtles began as loose garments without a waist seam, changing to tightly fitted supportive garments in the 14th century, later kirtles could be constructed by combining a fitted bodice with a skirt gathered or pleated into the waist seam. Kirtles could lace up the front, back or side-back, with rare cases of side lacing, all depending on the fashion of the day/place. Kirtles could be embellished with a variety of decorations including gold, silk, tassels, dirndl Girdle Jumper Arnold, Janet, Queen Elizabeths Wardrobe Unlockd, W S Maney and Son Ltd, Leeds 1988. ISBN 0-901286-20-6 Arnold, Janet, Patterns of Fashion, the cut and construction of clothes for men and women 1560-1620, ashelford, Jane, The Art of Dress, Clothing and Society 1500-1914, Abrams,1996. The Visual History of Costume, The Sixteenth Century, hearn, Karen, ed. Dynasties, Painting in Tudor and Jacobean England 1530-1630. The Passionate Shepherd to His Love poem by Christopher Marlowe, in the 1590s
27.
Shalwar kameez
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Shalwar kameez, also spelled salwar kameez or shalwar qameez, is a traditional outfit originating in the Indian subcontinent. It is a term used to describe different styles of dress. The shalwar kameez can be worn by men and women, but styles differ by gender. The shalwar and the kameez are two garments which are combined to form the shalwar kameez, the shalwar, šalvār, sirwāl, salwar, selwar, shalvaar are a form of baggy trousers. Transliterations starting from Urdu, Lahnda, Persian, Pashto, Turkish languages use sh, Salwar is the spelling most commonly used in India. Transliterations starting from Punjabi often render the sibilant sound at the start of salwar/shalwar as an s, both spellings are found in common English usage. The shalwar spelling seems to be most common in Canada and the United Kingdom, the kameez or qamis is a shirt of varying length. Garments cut like the kameez are known in many cultures, 10th-century cotton shirts recovered from the Egyptian desert are cut much like the kameez or the contemporary Egyptian djellaba or jellabiya. The word kameez is originally an Arabic word and is also spelled with a Q. The shalwar are loose pajama-like trousers, the legs are wide at the top, and narrow at the ankle. The kameez is a shirt or tunic, often seen with a Western-style collar, however, for female apparel. The kameez might be worn with pajamas as well, either for fashion or comfort, some kameez styles have side seams, left open below the waist-line, giving the wearer greater freedom of movement. The kameez can be straight and flat, in an A shape design or flowing like a dress. Modern kameez styles are more likely to have European-inspired set-in sleeves, if the tailors taste or skill is displayed, this will be seen in the shape of the neckline and the decoration of the kameez. The kameez may be cut with a deep neckline, sewn in diaphanous fabrics, there are many styles of shalwar, the Peshawari shalwar, Balochi shalwar, Sindhi choreno and Punjabi shalwar. The following are some of the styles of shalwar kameez, the shalwar kameez known as the Anarkali suit is named after the court dancer from Lahore. This suit has a style which has become very popular. It is made up of a long, frock-style top and features a fitted bottom
28.
International Standard Book Number
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The International Standard Book Number is a unique numeric commercial book identifier. An ISBN is assigned to each edition and variation of a book, for example, an e-book, a paperback and a hardcover edition of the same book would each have a different ISBN. The ISBN is 13 digits long if assigned on or after 1 January 2007, the method of assigning an ISBN is nation-based and varies from country to country, often depending on how large the publishing industry is within a country. The initial ISBN configuration of recognition was generated in 1967 based upon the 9-digit Standard Book Numbering created in 1966, the 10-digit ISBN format was developed by the International Organization for Standardization and was published in 1970 as international standard ISO2108. Occasionally, a book may appear without a printed ISBN if it is printed privately or the author does not follow the usual ISBN procedure, however, this can be rectified later. Another identifier, the International Standard Serial Number, identifies periodical publications such as magazines, the ISBN configuration of recognition was generated in 1967 in the United Kingdom by David Whitaker and in 1968 in the US by Emery Koltay. The 10-digit ISBN format was developed by the International Organization for Standardization and was published in 1970 as international standard ISO2108, the United Kingdom continued to use the 9-digit SBN code until 1974. The ISO on-line facility only refers back to 1978, an SBN may be converted to an ISBN by prefixing the digit 0. For example, the edition of Mr. J. G. Reeder Returns, published by Hodder in 1965, has SBN340013818 -340 indicating the publisher,01381 their serial number. This can be converted to ISBN 0-340-01381-8, the check digit does not need to be re-calculated, since 1 January 2007, ISBNs have contained 13 digits, a format that is compatible with Bookland European Article Number EAN-13s. An ISBN is assigned to each edition and variation of a book, for example, an ebook, a paperback, and a hardcover edition of the same book would each have a different ISBN. The ISBN is 13 digits long if assigned on or after 1 January 2007, a 13-digit ISBN can be separated into its parts, and when this is done it is customary to separate the parts with hyphens or spaces. Separating the parts of a 10-digit ISBN is also done with either hyphens or spaces, figuring out how to correctly separate a given ISBN number is complicated, because most of the parts do not use a fixed number of digits. ISBN issuance is country-specific, in that ISBNs are issued by the ISBN registration agency that is responsible for country or territory regardless of the publication language. Some ISBN registration agencies are based in national libraries or within ministries of culture, in other cases, the ISBN registration service is provided by organisations such as bibliographic data providers that are not government funded. In Canada, ISBNs are issued at no cost with the purpose of encouraging Canadian culture. In the United Kingdom, United States, and some countries, where the service is provided by non-government-funded organisations. Australia, ISBNs are issued by the library services agency Thorpe-Bowker
29.
History of bras
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A bra or brassiere is a form-fitting undergarment designed to support a womans breasts. Swimsuits, camisoles and backless dresses may be made with built-in support, bras are complex garments made of many parts. Most come in 36 sizes, standards and methods of measurement vary widely, the term brassiere was used by the Evening Herald in Syracuse, New York, in 1893. It gained wider acceptance in 1904 when the DeBevoise Company used it in their advertising copy—although the word is actually Norman French for a childs undershirt, in French, it is called a soutien-gorge. It and other early versions resembled a camisole stiffened with boning, vogue magazine first used the term brassiere in 1907, and by 1911 the word had made its way into the Oxford English Dictionary. On 3 November 1914, the newly formed U. S. patent category for brassieres was inaugurated with the first patent issued to Mary Phelps Jacob, in the 1930s brassiere was gradually shortened to bra. Wearing a garment to support the breasts may date back to ancient Greece, women wore an apodesmos, later stēthodesmē, mastodesmos and mastodeton, all meaning breast-band, a band of wool or linen that was wrapped across the breasts and tied or pinned at the back. Fragments of linen textiles found in East Tyrol in Austria dated to between 1440 and 1485 are believed to have been bras. Two of them had made from two pieces of linen sewn with fabric that extended to the bottom of the torso with a row of six eyelets for fastening with a lace or string. One had two straps and was decorated with lace in the cleavage. From the 16th century, the undergarments of wealthier women in the Western world were dominated by the corset, women have played a large part in the design and manufacture of the bra, accounting for half the patents filed. The Dresden-based German Christine Hardt patented the first modern brassiere in 1899, sigmund Lindauer from Stuttgart-Bad Cannstatt, Germany, developed a brassiere for mass production in 1912 and patented it in 1913. It was mass-produced by Mechanischen Trikotweberei Ludwig Maier und Cie. in Böblingen, in the United States, Mary Phelps Jacob received a patent in 1914 for the first brassiere design that is recognized as the basis for modern bras. Mass production in the century made the garment widely available to women in the United States, England, Western Europe. Metal shortages in World War I encouraged the end of the corset, brassieres were initially manufactured by small production companies and supplied to retailers. The term cup was not used until 1916, and manufacturers relied on stretchable cups to accommodate different sized breasts. Women with larger or pendulous breasts had the choice of bras, built-up backs, wedge-shaped inserts between the cups, wider straps, power Lastex, firm bands under the cup. Camp and Company correlated the size and pendulousness of breasts to letters A through D, camps advertising featured letter-labeled profiles of breasts in the February 1933 issue of Corset and Underwear Review
30.
Bandeau
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A bandeau is a garment comprising, in appearance, a strip of cloth. Today, the term most frequently refers to a garment that wraps around a womans breasts in sports or swimwear and it is similar to a tube top, but narrower. It is usually strapless, sleeveless and off the shoulder and it is commonly made from elastic material to stop it from slipping down, or is tied or pinned at the back or front. In the first half of the 20th century, a referred to a headdress, in the form of headache bands or headbands. The term is used to refer to a wimple-like garment in the costumes of nuns. The bandeau emerged as the top part of a two-piece swimsuit during the 1940s, in the 1950s the bandeau incorporated foundation so as to structure the contours of the body, while still retaining a relatively simple circle or band shape, emphasizing the bare midriff. Its popularity in swimwear declined during the string bikini era, but it reappeared in the 1980s, especially with Spandex, side stays, v-wire in the center front, O-rings, and the twisted top are popular design elements. In modern sports and swimwear, a bandeau is a garment worn around a womans breasts. It may be fastened in the front or back or be sufficiently elastic so as not to need a fastener at all, a bandeau may come with a detachable halter strap, for extra support. A strapless bandeau, or tube top, was worn as casual wear and sports wear starting in the 1970s. Actress Halle Berry wore a bandeau with matching pants to the MTV Video Music Award, miley Cyrus also wore a bandeau top with cropped high waisted pants at the 2014 VMA Awards and Jourdan Dunn wore a bandeau top with a long skirt. The outfits consisted of a top and a high waisted bottom. Wearing a bandeau to support a womans breasts may date back to ancient Greece and it consisted of a band of wool or linen that was wrapped across the breasts and tied or pinned at the back. As a silhouette the bandeau was also worn in Roman times, in the Greco-Roman world, women athletes wearing two-piece garments were depicted on urns and paintings dating back to 1400 BC. The mosaic features ten maidens who have been dubbed the Bikini Girls. Other Roman archaeological finds depict the goddess Venus in a similar garment, in Pompeii, depictions of Venus wearing a bikini were discovered in the Casa della Venere, in the tablinum of the House of Julia Felix, and in an atrium garden of Via DellAbbondanza. In the 1920s the term was applied to a simply shaped brassiere, usually of a soft fabric, the design was patented in 1916 in the United States by Edgar Guggenheim and resembled the contours and wrapping effects of the scultetus binder used in hospitals. It was sometimes made from a material to flatten or suppress the breasts in the style of the period
31.
Nursing bra
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A nursing bra is a specialized brassiere that provides additional support to women who are lactating and permits comfortable breastfeeding without the need to remove the bra. This is accomplished by specially designed bra cups that include flaps which can be opened with one hand to expose the nipple, the flap is usually held closed with a simple clasp or hook. Like its sister the maternity bra, a bra is a practical bra designed with fuller cups, comfortable fabrics. It is designed to support an increased breast size during lactation. The nursing bra aids breastfeeding by providing flaps or panels that form the bra cup that can be unclipped and folded down or to the side with one hand, exposing the nipple. Some nursing bras are designed so the entire brassiere can be pulled upward over the breast to allow an infant to nurse. All nursing bras are designed to allow the mother to hold her infant. When in public, this enables a mother to nurse her infant with minimal effort. Nursing bras can be worn under a variety of outer garments, nursing bras are designed to allow the mother to insert breast pads to absorb leaking milk between feedings. As with all bras, finding a correctly fitting nursing bra can be difficult, like regular bras, the band should ride on the womans torso parallel to the floor. The cups should enclose the breast tissue with no bulging under the armpits, over the tops of the cups, regular bras are not recommended for nursing mothers because they may not offer adequate support or may put pressure on the breasts. Some women are more comfortable wearing camisoles, sleeveless T-shirts, or tank tops over a shelf bra, because a womans torso usually grows during the pregnancy, her bra band size may grow one or two sizes. An average of 80% of women wear the bra size. Women should choose nursing bras with strong side and undercup support, nursing bras usually have up to four rows of hooks in the rear closure to allow the woman to adjust her band size to a limited extent. However, because a womans milk supply continually changes, her breasts will also change size during each day, experts recommend a soft-cup bra made of a blend of cotton and Lycra with cups that stretch to accommodate changes in breast size. Most women buy two or more nursing bras so they can alternate between them, small-breasted women who dont usually wear a bra may choose to wear a nursing bra to support their larger breasts or simply to prevent milk from leaking onto their clothes. A womans breasts grow during pregnancy, usually 1 to 2 cup sizes, a woman who wore a C-cup bra prior to her pregnancy may need to buy an F cup or larger bra while nursing. Once the baby is born and about 50 to 73 hours after birth, once lactation begins, the womans breasts swell significantly and can feel achy, lumpy and heavy
32.
Sports bra
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A sports bra is a bra that provides support to female breasts during physical exercise. Sturdier than typical bras, they minimize breast movement, alleviate discomfort, many women wear sports bras to reduce pain, and physical discomfort caused by breast movement during exercise. Some sports bras are designed to be worn as outerwear during exercise such as jogging, the first commercially available sports bra was the Free Swing Tennis Bra introduced by Glamorise Foundations, Inc. in 1975. The first general exercise bra, initially called a jockbra, was invented in 1977 by Lisa Lindahl and theater costume designer Polly Smith with the help of Smiths assistant, Hinda Schreiber. Lindahls sister, Victoria Woodrow, complained about her bad experience exercising in ordinary bras, having experienced runaway straps, chafing, during the course of Lindahl and Smiths exploration for a better alternative, Lindahls husband suggested that what they needed was a jockstrap for womens breasts. In the costume shop of Royall Tyler Theatre at the University of Vermont, Lindahl and it was later renamed a jogbra. One of their original Jogbras is bronzed and on display near the shop of the theatre. Two others are housed by the Smithsonian and another by the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art, in 1990 Playtex purchased Jogbra from Lisa and her partners. This was followed by research by Christine Haycock, associate professor of surgery at the University of Medicine and she measured breast movement of women running on treadmills. Sought out by bra manufacturers for her expertise, she advocated wide bottom bands for extra support, renelle Braaten, a Montana hairdresser, struggled to contain her double-Ds while playing racquetball and volleyball. Unable to interest mainstream bra manufacturers, she collaborated with freelance apparel designer Heidi Fisk, after considerable lobbying, she persuaded Oprah Winfrey in 2001 to try her bra. This led to positive reviews in O, The Oprah Magazine, a 2001 appearance on The Oprah Winfrey Show. Sports bras can either encapsulate or compress breasts, bras that encapsulate breasts have molded cups, while compression-type bras restrict movement by flattening the breasts. Encapsulation-type bras generally are effective at reducing discomfort, but some women prefer compression designs. The most common sports bra is designed like a tank top with the bottom half cut off. Other designs use gel and water pads, silver fibres, a stitchless bra was made by Wacoal, was molded, compressed, and shaped. A compressed bra is designed to push the breasts against the chest to reduce movement, other bras are knitted in circular patterns, giving varying stretch and support. A common design uses a stretchable, absorbent fabric such as Lycra designed to reduce irritation by drawing away from the skin
33.
Training bra
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A training bra is a lightweight brassiere designed for girls who have begun to develop breasts during puberty when the girls breasts are not yet large enough to fit a standard-sized bra. Breast growth is defined by the Tanner scale. Girls who are developing breasts are at Tanner stage I and II, training bras are usually a lightweight, unlined, pullover style bra and feature a soft, elastic bra band and soft bra cups. Prior to the marketing of training bras, a pre-teen or young teen girl in Western countries usually wore a one-piece waist or camisole without cups or darts. When a girl receives her first bra, it may be seen as a rite of passage in her life signifying her coming of age. Bras for pre-teens and girls entering puberty were first marketed during the 1950s, some companies have been criticized for marketing bras to pre-teens and of sexualizing girls at an early age. Training bras are usually a lightweight, soft-cup design, unlined and they are often made of a mixed cotton spandex or cotton Lycra fabric with thin straps and elastic under the growing breasts to hold the garment in place. Training bras for pubescent girls may be sold in small, medium, and large sizes and they are made in a variety of colors and prints, including lace. As a girl continued to develop, usually around Tanner stage III, the initial training bras offer little if any actual support. Some styles are padded to hide the girls developing breast buds or to increase the size of the girls breasts. The training bra is intended to help girls become comfortable with the idea of wearing lingerie. Prior to the 1950s, girls in Western countries typically wore undershirts until their breasts were sufficiently large to permit wearing an adult bra, during the 1940s and 1950s, western media created a mammary fixation that shaped teen perceptions of breast size. Boys noticed girls who were more busty, and particularly American girls were more aware of breast size, popular American culture in the 1950s was notable for its focus on full-breasted women like Lana Turner and Jane Russell. In some social circles, an ability to fill a bra became central to her status. During the 1950s, doctors in the United States wrote that teen girls needed to wear a bra to prevent sagging breasts, poor circulation, and stretched blood vessels. In magazines like Seventeen and Compact, adolescent girls were encouraged to purchase undergarments like Bobbie bras, Formfit girdles and it became common in the 1950s for pre-teen girls in the United States to begin wearing training bras even though their breasts are too small to actually require support. The American Academy of Pediatricians published Puberty, Information for Boys, in it, they advised girls, As your breasts develop, you may need a bra. Some girls feel that wearing a bra for the first time is exciting—it is the first step becoming an woman
34.
Underwire bra
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An underwire bra is a brassiere that utilizes a thin, semi-circular strip of rigid material fitted inside the brassiere fabric. The wire may be made of metal, plastic, or resin and it is sewn into the bra fabric and under each cup, from the center gore to under the wearers armpit. The wire helps to lift, separate, shape, and support a womans breasts, many different brassiere designs incorporate an underwire, including shelf bras, demi bras, nursing bras, and bras built into other articles of clothing, such as tank tops, dresses and swimsuits. The concept of an underwire can be traced to an 1893 patent that describes a breast supporting device using a plate under the breasts for stability. The modern underwire bra was designed in the 1930s, and gained popularity by the 1950s. As of 2005, underwire bras were the largest and fastest growing segment of the bra market, a bra without an underwire is a softcup bra. Underwire bras are occasionally linked to conditions including breast pain, mastitis. Women wearing an underwire bra have in a few rare instances been subjected to scrutiny when their bra set off metal detectors at security checkpoints in airports or prisons. There have been a few recorded incidents where the underwire deflected a bullet or other weapon that struck the womans chest, the precursor to the underwire bra can be traced back to at least 1893, when New Yorker Marie Tucek was granted a patent for a breast supporter. The breast supporter was described as a modification of the corset and it consisted of a plate made of metal, cardboard, or other stiff material, shaped to fit against the torso under the breasts, following the contour of the breasts. It was covered with silk, canvas, or other cloth, the plate curved around the torso and ended near the armpits, held in place and adjusted to a snug fit by shoulder straps that crossed the back, forming an X-shape. It was secured with hook-and-eye closures, the underwire bra design emerged and took hold in the United States starting in the 1930s. Helene Pons received a patent in 1931 for a design that incorporated an open-ended wire loop that laid flat against the chest, encircling the bottom. A1932 patent describes a U-shaped piece of wire used between the cups to keep the breasts separated, a patent issued in 1938 to Pauline Boris describes a breast support which used pieces of wire to entirely encircle each breast. In 1940, Walter Emmett Williams was issued a patent which described a wire framework, shaped like a spiderweb, that encircles and covers each breast to provide support. Although development of the underwire bra started in the 1930s, it did not gain popularity until the 1950s. In the 1940s, Howard Hughes had an underwire push-up bra designed for Jane Russell to emphasize her breasts in The Outlaw, according to Russell, the ridiculous contraption was painful and she secretly wore her own bra during the movie. The brassiere is now in a Hollywood museum, by 1990, Norma Kamali had incorporated underwire bras into both one- and two-piece swimsuits
35.
Bustier
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A bustier is a form-fitting garment for women, which is traditionally worn as lingerie. Its primary purpose is to push up the bust by tightening against the upper midriff and forcing the breasts up, nowadays, it might also be worn as a push-up bra under a low-backed dress, or as a camisole for outerwear. The bustier can also be worn as a half-slip under sheer upper garments if a bold display of the midriff is not desired, a bustier resembles a basque, but it is shorter. It reaches down only to the ribs or waist, modern bustiers are often made with mesh panels rather than the traditional boning. Bra Corset The dictionary definition of bustier at Wiktionary Media related to Bustier at Wikimedia Commons
36.
Basque (clothing)
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A basque is an item of womens clothing. The term, of French origin, refers to a type of bodice or jacket and it is so called because the fashion was adopted from Basque traditional dress, initially by the French and then throughout Western fashion. In Victorian fashion, basque refers to a closely fitted bodice or jacket extending past the waistline over the hips, depending on era, a basque bodice could also be referred to as a corset waist, because of its close fit. In modern usage, basque may also refer to clothing details reminiscent of such as frilly lace and cutout. The undergarment is similar to a Victorian-era corset, but with less compression of the ribs, the modern-day torsolette features lace-up or hook-and-eye fastening, as well as boning or vertical seams for structure and support. It usually, though not always, has brassiere cups, and is distinguished from the bustier by its length and it sometimes features detachable garters, or suspenders. In American English, it is known as a merry widow. A soft torsolette is a bandeau A long torsolette is a corselette Media related to Torsolette at Wikimedia Commons
37.
Bikini
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A bikini is usually a womens abbreviated two-piece swimsuit with a bra top for the chest and underwear cut below the navel. The basic design is simple, two triangles of fabric on top cover the breasts and two triangles of fabric on the bottom cover the groin in front and the buttocks in back. The size of a bottom can range from full pelvic coverage to a revealing thong or G-string design. The name for the design was coined in 1946 by Parisian engineer Louis Réard. He named the swimsuit after Bikini Atoll, where testing on the bomb was taking place. Fashion designer Jacques Heim, also from Paris, re-released a similar design earlier that same year, due to its controversial and revealing design, the bikini was slow to be adopted. In many countries it was banned from beaches and public places, the bikini design became common in most Western countries by the mid-1960s as beachwear, swimwear and underwear. By the late 20th century it had become common as sportswear in sports such as beach volleyball, variations of the term are used to describe stylistic variations for promotional purposes and industry classifications, including monokini, microkini, tankini, trikini, pubikini, and skirtini. A mans brief swimsuit may also be referred to as a bikini, similarly, a variety of mens and womens underwear types are described as bikini underwear. The bikini has gradually grown to wide acceptance in Western society. By the early 2000s, bikinis had become a US$811 million business annually, while the two-piece swimsuit as a design existed in classical antiquity, the modern design first attracted public notice in Paris on July 5,1946. Four days earlier, the United States had initiated its first peace-time nuclear weapons test at Bikini Atoll as part of Operation Crossroads, Réard hoped his swimsuits revealing style would create an explosive commercial and cultural reaction similar to the explosion at Bikini Atoll. Later swimsuit designs like the tankini and trikini further cemented this false assumption, although bikini was originally a registered trademark of Réard, it has since become genericized. A mans brief swimsuit may also be referred to as a bikini, similarly, a variety of mens and womens underwear types are described as bikini underwear. The two-piece swimsuit can be traced back to the Greco-Roman world, the mosaic, found in the Sicilian Villa Romana del Casale, features ten maidens who have been anachronistically dubbed the Bikini Girls. Other Roman archaeological finds depict the goddess Venus in a similar garment, in Pompeii, depictions of Venus wearing a bikini were discovered in the Casa della Venere, in the tablinum of the House of Julia Felix, and in an atrium garden of Via DellAbbondanza. Swimming or bathing outdoors was discouraged in the Christian West, so there was little demand or need for swimming or bathing costumes until the 18th century. The bathing gown of the 18th century was a loose ankle-length full-sleeve chemise-type gown made of wool or flannel that retained coverage, in 1913, designer Carl Jantzen made the first functional two-piece swimwear
38.
Boyshorts
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Some even resemble mens briefs, complete with fly and contrast trim. Unlike mens briefs, however, this style is usually lower cut, boy shorts often cover most of the buttocks area, therefore keeping privacy at maximum while still having comfort. Boy shorts have become a choice, since they avoid displaying a prominent visible panty line. They are also matched with a camisole top and worn as loungewear. Cotton-spandex blends and lace are the most popular materials for boy shorts, the term boy shorts can also refer to bathing suit bottoms in the same style. Media related to Boyshorts at Wikimedia Commons
39.
French knickers
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French knickers are a type of womens underwear or lingerie. The term is used in the United Kingdom and Australia to describe a style of underpant that is similar in look to a pair of shorts. French knickers are worn from the hip, concealing some of the upper thigh, the garment features an open leg style that allows for a more comfortable fit and the straight-cut leg cuffs can be designed with or without trimming. The fabric is often bias cut, French knickers are not to be confused with other underpant styles such as hipsters, briefs, bikini bottoms and boyshorts, all of which feature elasticated leg openings and fit snug to the body. French knickers are ideally accompanied by full, flared and A-Line skirts, trousers and dresses, as they can add bulk, the item is an elegant, comfortable and healthier alternative to more fitted forms of underwear and luxury fabrics like silk are often used in their production. During the 1920s and 1930s, French knickers were very popular, but by the 1940s and 1950s, briefs were worn by most women, perhaps due to fabric shortages, by the 1950s, the fitted underpant was almost universally worn. During the nostalgia revival of the 1970s, French knickers returned to fashion through the designs of Janet Reger and others, the popularity of French knickers declined again during the 1990s as younger consumers displayed a greater interest in other underwear styles, such as briefs and thongs. They are still today, and most often found in vintage reproduction
40.
Boxer shorts
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Boxer shorts are a type of undergarment typically worn by men. The term has been used in English since 1944 for all-around-elastic shorts, so named after the shorts worn by boxers, boxers come in a variety of styles and design but are characterized by their loose fit. In 1925, Jacob Golomb, founder of Everlast, designed elastic-waist trunks to replace the leather-belted trunks then worn by boxers and these trunks, now known as boxer trunks, immediately became famous, but were later eclipsed by the popular Jockey-style briefs beginning in the late 1930s. Around 1947, boxer shorts started to gain in popularity again, the two styles, briefs and boxer shorts, had varying ratios of sales for the following forty years, with strong regional and generational preferences. In more recent decades, boxer shorts got a fashion boost in 1985 when English model, since the 1990s, some men also opt for boxer briefs as a compromise between the two. Most boxer shorts have a fly in front, boxer shorts manufacturers have a couple of methods of closing the fly, metal snaps or a button or two. However, many boxer shorts on the market do not need a mechanism to close up the fly as the fabric is cut. This is commonly known as an open fly design, the most common sewing design of boxer shorts are made with a panel seat that has two seams running on the outer edges of the back seating area, creating a center rear panel. Most mass-produced commercial boxer shorts are made using this design, two less common forms of boxer shorts are gripper boxers and yoke front boxers. Gripper boxers have an elastic waistband like regular boxers but have snaps, usually 3, on the fly and this style of underwear was very common during World War II, when the rubber needed for elastic waistbands had to be used for military purposes. Boxer shorts are available in white and solid colors including pastels, additionally, there are innumerable novelty boxer short patterns. Boxer shorts are produced using various fabrics including all cotton, cotton/polyester blends, jersey knits, satin, some studies have suggested that tight underwear and high temperature are not optimally conductive for sperm production. The compression of the genitals in briefs may cause the temperature to rise, there is a similar theory regarding testicular cancer risk. A study in the October 1998 Journal of Urology, for example, girl boxers have come onto the market in recent years. They are often worn as loungewear and they differ from boyshorts in that they are commonly longer and more closely resemble their male counterparts. In 1975, a Sears catalog photo of boxer shorts created an urban legend. A model appeared to have part of his penis exposed in the photo, no recall of the catalog occurred. The incident inspired the singer Zoot Fensters 1975 single The Man on Page 602
41.
Tap pants
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Tap pants are a form of lingerie designed for women, also known as side-cut shorts or dance shorts, and are similar to French knickers in appearance. As the name implies, they are a type of shorts, in that cover the pelvic area. Tap pants look much like track shorts, allow freedom of movement, however, most wearers may wear them as innerwear or leisurewear with nothing underneath. From a distance, one could mistakenly identify tap pants as a half slip, the name tap pants originates from shorts worn by tap dancers during the 1930s, while practicing their routines. Tap pants are manufactured using materials like lace, silk, satin, polyester. Some pairs may be trimmed in ruffles, tap pants have been losing popularity to slimmer versions of underwear since the mid 20th century, as loose undergarments do not mix with figure-hugging dresses, and especially with pants
42.
Thong (clothing)
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The thong is a garment generally worn as either underwear or as a swimsuit in some countries. It may also be worn for ceremonies or competitions, such as sumo wrestling. Viewed from the front, the thong typically resembles a bikini bottom, Thongs are almost always designed to cover the genitals, anus, and perineum, and leave part or most of the buttocks uncovered. It is also used as a term in other types of garment, such as a bodysuit, bodystocking, leotard. One type of thong is the G-string, the back of which consists only of a string, the two terms G-string and thong are often used interchangeably, however, they can refer to distinct pieces of clothing. Thongs come in a variety of styles depending on the thickness, material, the origin of the word thong in the English language is from Old English thwong, a flexible leather cord. Many languages borrow the English word string to refer to type of underwear. Another common name is tanga, especially in the German Tanga, a frequent metaphor, especially in Brazil, is dental floss, in Brazil a thong is called fio dental, in English, the term Butt floss is sometimes used. In Lithuanian it is siaurikės, Italian perizoma or tanga, in Turkish ipli külot, and in Bulgarian as prashka, in Israel the thong, mostly the G-string, is called Khutini, from the word Khut, which means String. Similarly, in Iran, it is called Shortbandi in which short means briefs, a Puerto-Rican Spanish slang term, used by Reggaeton artists, is gistro. Australians often colloquially refer to the G-string as a g-banger or simply banger, some names for the thong reference the bareness of the buttocks, as seen in the Spanish word colaless, and in other names the T-like shape of the back is highlighted. In Chinese, the T-back is commonly called dingziku which literally means 丁 character pants, in Korean, it is called 티팬티. However, there are several usages of the term T-back in English as well, the Heinemann English Dictionary defines thong as a pair of underpants or swimming costume in a very skimpy style like a G-string. The thong, like its predecessor the loincloth, is believed to be one of the earliest forms of human clothing and is also thought to have been worn mostly or exclusively by men. It is thought the thong was probably developed to protect, support. The loincloth is probably the earliest form of clothing used by mankind, many tribal peoples, such as some of the Khoisan people of southern Africa, wore thongs for many centuries. Much like the Japanese fundoshi, these garments were made with the male genitalia in mind. A descendant of the loincloth and thong is the jockstrap, created by Chicago sporting goods company Sharp & Smith in 1874, the first historical reference to the thong since then is in 1939 when New York City Mayor Fiorello LaGuardia ordered nude dancers to dress more appropriately
43.
G-string
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A G-string is a type of thong, a narrow piece of fabric, leather, or satin that covers or holds the genitals, passes between the buttocks, and is attached to a band around the hips. A G-string can be worn by men and women. It may also be worn in swimwear, where it may serve as a bikini bottom, G-strings may also be worn by exotic or go-go dancers. As underwear, a G-string may be worn in preference to panties to avoid creation of a visible panty line, the two terms G-string and thong are sometimes used interchangeably, however, technically they refer to different pieces of clothing. Since the 19th century, the term geestring referred to the string which held the loincloth of Native Americans and this is apocryphal, as the narrowest string on a violin is the E string. Safire also mentions the opinion of linguist Robert Hendrickson that G stands for groin, cecil Adams, author of the blog The Straight Dope, has proposed an origin from girdle-string, which is attested as early as 1846. The G-string first appeared in costumes worn by showgirls in Earl Carrolls productions during the 1920s, linguist Robert Hendrickson believes that the G stands for groin. The Oxford English Dictionary reports that the G-string was originally a strip of fabric worn by Indian women. During the Depression, a G-string was known as the gadget, a double-entendre that referred to a handymans contrivance, during the 1930s, the Chicago G-string gained prominence when worn by performers like Margie Hart. The Chicago area was the home of some of the largest manufacturers of G-strings, in the Tarzan novels of Edgar Rice Burroughs, Tarzan is described as wearing a G-string, but in the Tarzan films he always wore a more modest loin cloth. Media related to Thong at Wikimedia Commons
