1.
Christopher Kane
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Christopher Kane is a Scottish fashion designer based in London whose brand is now part of Kering. Kane was born as the youngest of five children in Newarthill, North Lanarkshire, to an engineer and draughtsman father and housewife mother. While still in college, he worked for fellow designers Russell Sage and Giles Deacon, Kane subsequently won the Harrods Design Award for his MA Graduate collection, consisting of £1,500 and a showpiece window in Harrods from 24 February to 8 March 2006. The collection consisted of stretch-lace dresses decorated with brass rings and he was immediately hired by Versace to work on the labels Atelier couture collection as well as consulting on shoes and accessories. He graduated from Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in 2006, in August 2014, Kane was one of 200 public figures who were signatories to a letter to The Guardian opposing Scottish independence in the run-up to Septembers referendum on that issue. His first independent show, presented on 20 September 2006, consisted of super-short bandage dresses in neon shades, Kane said of his collection that he only used neon last year because it was first collection and I wanted to go as bright as possible. The collection was lauded by prominent international fashion critics and credited by various sources as a contributor to summer 2007s fluoro trends. In April 2006, Kane was awarded the Young Designer of the Year at the Scottish Fashion Awards, subsequently, the designer launched a capsule collection for British high-street clothing store Topshop. His second collection, show cased on 13 February 2007, once again received positive reviews from leading critics, moving away from his signature tight-fitted look, Kane showcased a collection of velvets and leathers in a more relaxed silhouette. This was also his first collaboration with prominent shoe designer Manolo Blahnik, Kane collaborations extend into music, whereby he designed costumes for Kylie Minogues music video 2 Hearts. On 18 October 2007, he collaborated with Beth Ditto for luxury label Swarovskis Fashion Rocks show held at the Royal Albert Hall to critical acclaim. In addition to designing his own label and consulting at Versace, he is part of Atlier Swarovski. On 10 September 2007, days before Kane was scheduled to show his third collection, in addition to cashmere and leather pieces, a laptop was also stolen. No fingerprints were found upon inspection, on 27 November 2007, he was awarded New Designer of The Year at the British Fashion Awards. Kane has also credited for single-handedly turning the fortunes of cashmere producer Johnstons of Elginby partnering with the company to produce his line of cashmere garments. Known to be a promoter of his home country, the designer was appointed as an ambassador for VisitScotland in January 2008. He celebrated Burns Night by showcasing a special show of his Spring-Summer 2008 collection as well as hosting an exclusive party at Harvey Nichols the ambassador for VisitScotland. Furthering his role, Kane collaborated with Lancôme to create a limited edition Juicy Tube lip gloss, the finished product, called Burns Night, is a tangerine colour with a beautiful illustration printed on the tube along with Kanes signature and was launched in February 2008
Christopher Kane
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Christopher Kane dress chosen by
Susanna Lau to represent 2013 in the
Fashion Museum, Bath 's
Dress of the Year collection.
2.
Mary Quant
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Dame Barbara Mary Quant, Mrs Plunket Greene, DBE, FCSD, RDI is a Welsh fashion designer and British fashion icon. She became a figure in the 1960s London-based Mod and youth fashion movements. In recent fashion there are three, Chanel, Dior, and Mary Quant, Quant was born in Blackheath, London on 11 February 1934, the daughter of Welsh teachers. Her parents, Jack and Mildred Quant, were both from mining families and they had been awarded scholarships to grammar school and had both attained first-class degrees at Cardiff University before they moved to London to work as schoolteachers. She went to Blackheath High School, then studied illustration at Goldsmiths College, after gaining a Diploma in Art Education from Goldsmiths, Quant began an apprenticeship at Erik, a high-end Mayfair milliner on Brook Street next door to Claridges hotel. She met her husband and business partner, Alexander Plunket Greene in 1953. They were married from 1957 until his death in 1990, and had a son, in 1957, they opened the second branch of Bazaar, which was designed by Terence Conran. Following this, Quant decided to design and make more of the clothes she stocked, initially working solo, she was soon employing a handful of machinists, and by 1966 she was working with eighteen manufacturers concurrently. For a while in the late 1950s and very early 1960s, the other was Kiki Byrne, who opened her boutique on the Kings Road in direct competition with Quant. The miniskirt, described as one of the fashions of the 1960s, is one of the garments most widely associated with Quant. While she is cited as the inventor of the style. Others credit Courrèges with the invention of the style, however, skirts had been getting shorter since the 1950s—a development Quant considered practical and liberating, allowing women the ability to run for a bus. Quant later said It was the girls on the Kings Road who invented the mini, I was making easy, youthful, simple clothes, in which you could move, in which you could run and jump and we would make them the length the customer wanted. I wore them short and the customers would say, Shorter, shorter. She enjoys being noticed, but wittily, in the late 1960s, Quant popularised hot pants and became a British fashion icon. Through the 1970s and 1980s she concentrated on household goods and make-up, rather than just her clothing lines, in 1988, Quant designed the interior of the Mini Designer. It featured black and white striped seats with red trimming, the seatbelts were red, and the driving and passenger seats had Quants signature on the upper left quadrant. The steering wheel had Quants signature daisy and the badge had Mary Quant written over the signature name
Mary Quant
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Mary Quant (1966)
Mary Quant
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Mary Quant dress chosen as the
Dress of the Year, 1963
Mary Quant
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Jersey minidress by Mary Quant, late 1960s.
3.
John Galliano
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John Charles Galliano CBE, RDI is a Gibraltar-born British fashion designer who was the head designer of French fashion companies Givenchy, Christian Dior, and his own label John Galliano. At present, Galliano is the director of Paris-based fashion house Maison Margiela. Galliano has been named British Designer of the Year four times, in a 2004 poll for the BBC, he was named the fifth most influential person in British culture. He was born in Gibraltar to a Gibraltarian father, Juan Galliano, and a Spanish mother, Anita and his family moved to England in pursuit of work when Galliano was six, and settled in Streatham, South London, before moving to Dulwich and later to Brockley. He was raised in a strict Roman Catholic family, Galliano, who was shy and diffident, often spoke of his struggle to fit in. Recalling his early days, he admitted, I dont think people here understood where I was coming from. His mother, a teacher, would dress him in his smartest outfit even for a trip to the local shops. His attire, combined with his creative sensibilities, caused him frequent persecution at the London boys grammar school he attended and his first collection was inspired by the French Revolution and entitled Les Incroyables. The collection received positive reviews and was bought in its entirety for resale in the London fashion boutique Browns, Galliano then started his own fashion label alongside long-term collaborators Amanda Harlech, at that time stylist with Harpers and Queen, and Stephen Jones, a milliner. On the back of this success, Galliano rented studio space in London, moreover, he would take his enjoyment of Londons nightlife to extremes. Galliano secured the backing of Paris-based Moroccan designer Faycal Amor who invited him to set up his base in Paris at the Plein Sud headquarters and his first show was in 1989 as part of Paris Fashion Week. Media fashion celebrity Susannah Constantine has worked for Galliano, and he has aided the future success of other designers including shoe designer Patrick Cox. In 1991, he collaborated with Kylie Minogue, designing the costumes for her Lets Get to It Tour, in 1993, Gallianos financial agreement with Amor ended and he did not have a showing in October, missing the season. It was through this partnership that Galliano received the financial backing and this collection was important in the development of Galliano as a fashion house, and is regarded as a fashion moment in high fashion circles. In July 1995, he was appointed as the designer of Givenchy by Bernard Arnault, owner of luxury goods conglomerate LVMH, on 21 January 1996, Galliano presented his first couture show at the helm of Givenchy at the Stade de France. The collection received high praise within the fashion media, some of Gallianos designs for Givenchy were licensed to Vogue Patterns. He was later replaced by Alexander McQueen, in October 1996, LVMH moved Galliano to Christian Dior, replacing Italian designer Gianfranco Ferré. At Dior, Galliano received critical acclaim for his Haute Couture, in 2010, Galliano identified his love of theatre and femininity as central to his creations, he said my role is to seduce, and credited Standard Oil heiress Millicent Rogers as an influence
John Galliano
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John Galliano ensemble.
Dress of the Year for 1987
John Galliano
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Galliano ballgowns designed for Dior as exhibited in Moscow, 2011
John Galliano
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Galliano dior newspaper dress at the ROM. Donated by Kara Alloway.
4.
Fashion Museum, Bath
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The Fashion Museum is housed in the Assembly Rooms in Bath, Somerset, England. The collection was started by Doris Langley Moore, who gave her collection to the city of Bath in 1963 and it focuses on fashionable dress for men, women and children from the late 16th century to the present day and has more than 100,000 objects. The earliest pieces are embroidered shirts and gloves from about 1600, the Museum receives about 130,000 visitors a year including tourists, fashion specialists, students and locals of the area. Every year from its creation in 1963, an independent fashion expert has been asked to select a dress for entry into this part of the collection, for further details, see Dress Of The Year
Fashion Museum, Bath
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Fashion Museum
Fashion Museum, Bath
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North America
5.
Fashion journalist
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Fashion journalism involves all aspects of published fashion media, including fashion writers, fashion critics, and fashion reporters. This can be fashion features in magazines and newspapers, and may also include books about fashion, fashion related reports on television and online magazines, websites. The work of a fashion journalist can be quite varied, typical work includes writing or editing articles, or helping to formulate and style a fashion shoot. Fashion journalists are either employed full-time by a publication or are employed on a freelance basis, a fashion website named Fashion Net was started in 1995. It was soon followed by American Fashion Mall and French ELLE, Fashion Live produced Internets first live fashion webcast of Yves Saint Laurents runway show in 1996. CNN Style and Hint Magazine arrived in 1998, the following year saw the rise and fall of Boo. com as the company burned through $135 million in 18 months. Style. com, the umbrella for Vogue and W. Style. com is not a journalistic website but a resource to show the collections of selected fashion shows each season. Following a tiff in 2007, W left Style. com making it the home for Vogue alone. In late 2000, Beauty Flow magazine flourished with exclusive content for editorials, portraits, and reports. The work of a fashion journalist has been depicted in such as The Devil Wears Prada, Confessions of a Shopaholic. Fashion journalism is only now becoming a subject of academic interest, with the rise of social media, cross-platform content production, and democratization of fashion around the world - interest in the study of fashion journalism is rising quickly. Robin Givhan is the fashion journalist to win The Pulitzer Prize for Criticism. Fashion editor List of fashion magazines
Fashion journalist
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Journalism
6.
Milliner
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Hatmaking is the manufacture of hats and head-wear. Millinery is the designing and manufacture of hats, a millinery shop is a store that sells those goods. A milliner or hatter designs, makes, trims, or sells hats, Millinery is sold to women, men and children, though some definitions limit the term to womens hats. More recently, the term milliner has evolved to describe a person who designs, makes, sells or trims hats primarily for a female clientele. The origin of the term is probably the Middle English milener, meaning an inhabitant of the city of Milan or one who deals in items from Milan, known for its fashion, many styles of headgear have been popular through history and worn for different functions and events. They can be part of uniforms or worn to indicate social status, styles include the top hat, hats worn as part of military uniforms, cowboy hat, and cocktail hat. This is a partial list of people who have had a significant influence on hatmaking, international Hat Company, an American manufacturer credited with inventing one of Americas most popular early 20th century harvest hats for field hands, farmers, and workmen. Hawley Products Company, an American manufacturer credited with inventing the tropical shaped, pressed fiber sun helmet used from World War II through the Persian Gulf War. John Cavanagh, an American hatter whose innovations included manufacturing regular, long, james Lock & Co. of London, is credited with the introduction of the bowler hat in 1849. John Batterson Stetson, credited with inventing the classic cowboy hat Giuseppe Borsalino, anna Ben-Yusuf wrote The Art of Millinery, one of the first reference books on millinery technique. Rose Bertin, milliner and modiste to Marie Antoinette, is described as the worlds first celebrity fashion designer. John Boyd is one of Londons most respected milliners and is known for the famous pink tricorn hat worn by Diana, lilly Daché was a famous American milliner of the mid-20th century. Frederick Fox was an Australian born milliner noted for his designs for the British Royal family, mr. John was an American milliner considered by some to be the millinery equivalent of Dior in the 1940s and 1950s. Stephen Jones of London, is considered one of the worlds most radical and important milliners of the late 20th, simone Mirman was known for her designs for Elizabeth II and other members of the British Royal Family. Caroline Reboux was a milliner of the 19th and early 20th centuries. David Shilling is a milliner, artist and designer based in Monaco. Justin Smith is an award-winning milliner creating bespoke and couture hats under the J Smith Esquire brand, philip Treacy of London is an award-winning milliner
Milliner
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Paja toquilla hatmaker,
Cuenca,
Ecuador
Milliner
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Canada's early fur trade was largely built on the fashion for
beaver hats in Europe, particularly
top hats. The steps in manufacturing hats are illustrated in this image from 1858.
Milliner
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Hat-maker making a felt hat
Milliner
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The Millinery Shop by Edgar Degas
7.
Stephen Jones (milliner)
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Stephen Jones OBE is a leading British milliner based in London, who is considered one of the worlds most radical and important milliners of the late 20th and early 21st centuries. He is also one of the most prolific, having created hats for the shows of many leading couturiers and fashion designers, such as John Galliano at Dior. His work is known for its inventiveness and the level of technical expertise with which he realises his ideas. Jones co-curated the 2009 exhibition Hats, An Anthology for the Victoria, Stephen Jones was born on the Wirral Peninsula in Cheshire and educated at Liverpool College. From an early age, his mother instilled in him an appreciation of art by taking him around the Walker Art Gallery, Speke Hall and he studied art at foundation level at the High Wycombe College of Art. In 1975 he travelled to London to see the exhibition Fashion from 1900-1939 at the V&A and this inspired him to apply to study fashion design under Bobby Hillson, at the Saint Martins School of Art, London, where he was the sole male student in his year. Jones soon requested a transfer to the next-door millinery department presided over by Shirley Hex, in his innocence, Jones had not realised that millinery flowers were traditionally made of silk, but Hex approved the hat, commenting on the flowers modernity. Between 1976 and 1979 Jones spent his summer working for Hex and learning about millinery methods. Through hats he developed a keen interest in history, particularly the drama. Jones left Saint Martins in 1979, the year that he became a regular attendee of Londons Blitz nightclub in Covent Garden for New Romantics. Jones had been a Punk while at St Martins, but keenly embraced the New Romantic movement as its drawing of inspiration from historical dress resonated with his thinking. Many of the Blitz Kids became his first clients, with Jones creating outlandish hats for them to wear to the club, Jones designed a line of hats for Fiorucci in 1979. In 1980, Blitzs owner Steve Strange provided financial backing for Jones first millinery salon and it was an instant success, with Jones commenting in 2008, Overnight, I had a business. This was the beginning of Jones long and fruitful relationship with the V&A, culminating in the Hats, An Anthology exhibition of 2009 that he co-curated with Oriole Cullen. That year, Jean Paul Gaultier invited him to Paris to make hats for his show, his first designs for a Paris couturier, and he also made hats for Thierry Mugler. After their second show together, Gaultier ensured that Jones received full credit for his hats, in 1984 he also sold his first designs to a department store, Bloomingdales in New York. Jones was appointed Officer of the Order of the British Empire in the 2010 New Year Honours and this is a list of Stephen Jones bi-annual hat collections since 1980. The collections from Fall 1981 to Fall 1984 were unnamed, • Fall-Winter, Soho In 1988 Jones moved again, to Heddon Street
Stephen Jones (milliner)
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Stephen Jones
Stephen Jones (milliner)
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Chanel Iman modelling a Stephen Jones hat for the Christian Dior Haute Couture fashion show, Autumn-Winter 2009-10.
8.
Blog
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A blog is a discussion or informational website published on the World Wide Web consisting of discrete, often informal diary-style text entries. Posts are typically displayed in chronological order, so that the most recent post appears first. Until 2009, blogs were usually the work of an individual, occasionally of a small group. In the 2010s, multi-author blogs have developed, with posts written by large numbers of authors, MABs from newspapers, other media outlets, universities, think tanks, advocacy groups, and similar institutions account for an increasing quantity of blog traffic. The rise of Twitter and other microblogging systems helps integrate MABs, Blog can also be used as a verb, meaning to maintain or add content to a blog. In the 2010s, the majority are interactive Web 2.0 websites, allowing visitors to leave online comments, in that sense, blogging can be seen as a form of social networking service. Indeed, bloggers do not only produce content to post on their blogs, however, there are high-readership blogs which do not allow comments. Many blogs provide commentary on a subject or topic, ranging from politics to sports. Others function as more personal online diaries, and others function more as online brand advertising of an individual or company. A typical blog combines text, digital images, and links to blogs, web pages. The ability of readers to leave publicly viewable comments, and interact with other commenters, is an important contribution to the popularity of many blogs, however, blog owners or authors often moderate and filter online comments to remove hate speech or other offensive content. Most blogs are primarily textual, although focus on art, photographs, videos, music. In education, blogs can be used as instructional resources and these blogs are referred to as edublogs. Microblogging is another type of blogging, featuring very short posts, on 16 February 2011, there were over 156 million public blogs in existence. On 20 February 2014, there were around 172 million Tumblr and 75.8 million WordPress blogs in existence worldwide, according to critics and other bloggers, Blogger is the most popular blogging service used today. However, Blogger does not offer public statistics, Technorati lists 1.3 million blogs as of February 22,2014. The term weblog was coined by Jorn Barger on 17 December 1997, the short form, blog, was coined by Peter Merholz, who jokingly broke the word weblog into the phrase we blog in the sidebar of his blog Peterme. com in April or May 1999. Shortly thereafter, Evan Williams at Pyra Labs used blog as both a noun and verb and devised the term blogger in connection with Pyra Labs Blogger product, in the 1990s, Internet forum software, created running conversations with threads
Blog
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Journalism
9.
Susanna Lau
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Susanna Lau, is a British fashion blogger whose blog, Style Bubble has become one of the most successful and widely recognised blogs of its type since it started in 2006. Lau was born in the United Kingdom in 1983 and her family comes from Hong Kong. She studied history at University College London, rather than reading the more usual topics of journalism or fashion design and she has also gained notoriety for her unique home decor and living style. The Style Bubble blog started in March 2006, by 2010, it was attracting tens of thousands of daily visitors, with 300,000 unique users per month. In March 2010 Lau left her role as commissioning editor of DazedDigital. com in order to focus on blogging full-time, by 2013, this had increased to 214,000. For the Gap advertising campaign in 2010, she was one of the demi-celebrities who gave quotes while modelling their clothing, describing style as the paper of my life. She was also involved in the launch of Googles Boutiques. com site, in 2014 Lau was the first blogger to be asked by the Fashion Museum, Bath to select an outfit to reflect 2013 for their Dress of the Year collection. Her choice was a dress by the 2013 Designer of the Year, Christopher Kane trimmed with lace and gaffer tape, with a hat by Nasir Mazhar and pink
Susanna Lau
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Christopher Kane dress chosen by Lau to represent 2013 in the
Fashion Museum, Bath 's
Dress of the Year collection.
10.
Mannequin
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A mannequin is an often articulated doll used by artists, tailors, dressmakers, windowdressers and others especially to display or fit clothing. During the 1950s, mannequins were used in tests to help show the effects of nuclear weapons on humans. Mannequin comes from the French word mannequin, which had acquired the meaning an artists jointed model, in early use in the United Kingdom, it referred to fashion models themselves, the meaning as a dummy dating from the start of World War II. Shop mannequins are derived from forms used by fashion houses for dress making. The use of mannequins originated in the 15th century, when miniature milliners mannequins were used to demonstrate fashions for customers, full-scale, wickerwork mannequins came into use in the mid-18th century. Wirework mannequins were manufactured in Paris from 1835, the first fashion mannequins, made of papier-mâché, were made in France in the mid-19th century. Mannequins were later made of wax to produce a more lifelike appearance, in the 1920s, wax was supplanted by a more durable composite made with plaster. Modern day mannequins are made from a variety of materials, the ones being fiberglass. The fiberglass mannequins are usually more expensive than the ones, tend to be not as durable. Mannequins are used primarily by retail stores as in-store displays or window decoration, however, many online sellers also use them to display their products for their product photos. Historically, artists have often used articulated mannequins as an aid in drawing draped figures, the advantage of this is that clothing or drapery arranged on a mannequin may be kept immobile for far longer than would be possible by using a living model. Medical simulation mannequins, models or related artefacts such as SimMan and these are sometimes also referred to as virtual patients. The term manikin refers exclusively to these types of models, though mannequin is often also used, in first aid courses manikins may be used to demonstrate methods of giving first aid. Fire and coastguard services use mannequins to practice life-saving procedures, the mannequins have similar weight distribution to a human. Special obese mannequins and horse mannequins have also made for similar purposes. Mannequins were a frequent motif in the many early 20th-century artists, notably the Metaphysical painters Giorgio de Chirico, Alberto Savinio. Shop windows displaying mannequins were a frequent photographic subject for Eugene Atget, the Twilight Zone episode The After Hours involves mannequins taking turns living in the real world as people. Mannequins are a theme in horror fiction
Mannequin
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Mannequins in a clothing shop in
Canada
Mannequin
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Mannequins in
Chanel store, 31 Rue Cambon,
Paris
Mannequin
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A mannequin outside a shop in North India.
Mannequin
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A baby
medical simulation mannequin
11.
Reed Crawford
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Reed Crawford was a British milliner of the 1950s and 1960s. He became especially associated with couture, working with the designer John Cavanagh from 1959, one of Reed Crawfords designs was chosen as part of the first Dress of the Year ensemble in 1963. Reed Crawford was interested in hats from childhood and, after service, he attended Liverpool College of Art, later. After graduating, he joined the milliner Miss Hammond, who was based in Brook Street, from there, he moved on to work with Rose Vernier, a prestigious milliner whose clients included Princess Marina. In 1954, he set up his own hatmaking business, Reed Crawford joined the couturier and Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers member John Cavanagh in July 1959 and his designs soon attracted coverage in the fashion press. Writing in The Guardian about the fashion shows, Belle Lawrie described. In The Times these new models were described as, high, narrow, Reed Crawfords high helmet-like cloche hats for John Cavanagh continued in 1960, but they were also joined by similarly high-line designs in pleated tulle. Cavanaghs outfit, a suit with pleated skirt and long jacket, was accessorised with a white petal hat created by Reed Crawford. For evening wear, he designed small caps topped with aigrettes and plumes of tulle. A year later, his grey trilby was chosen, in combination with a Mary Quant dress, although Reed Crawford was working within the couture system, his key interest was in radical design and material combinations. A collection of plastic hats created in 1965 for visitors to Royal Ascot attracted international attention, with designs comprising a modified souwester, a helmet hat and he described the hats as wet paddock millinery, a Canadian newspaper suggested they would be excellent for fishing in combination with hip-waders. More unusual fabric combinations included his 1966 transparent PVC hats trimmed with mink fur and his aspirations as a designer did not always dovetail with the market he served. In a 1990s interview for the Costume Society, he said and that was a bit difficult for me because I wanted to be in the avant-garde of fashion. In the same interview, he described his interest being primarily in the aspects of hatmaking. Not all his designs met with approval from the fashion press, alison Adburgham of The Guardian described him as a milliner of outrageous convictions. Funnier hats have appeared in pantomimes, but not much funnier, following his career in couture, Reed Crawford became a lecturer at the London College of Fashion. A selection of images of his work with John Cavanagh is held by the University of the Arts VADS archive and his Dress of the Year hat – one of his less radical designs – is part of the permanent collection at the Fashion Museum, Bath. Reed Crawford wig hat, Trinity Mirror archive Reed Crawford tulle helmet trimmed with burnt heron feathers, Trinity Mirror archive
Reed Crawford
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In 1963, Reed Crawford's trilby hat was chosen to accessorise a
Mary Quant pinafore dress and blouse as part of the first
Dress of the Year ensemble
12.
Jean Muir
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Jean Elizabeth Muir, CBE, FCSD was a British fashion designer. Jean Muir was born in London, the daughter of Cyril Muir, a drapers floor superintendent and her father was an Aberdonian, and Muir would attribute her creative pragmatism and self-discipline to this Scottish ancestry. Her parents separated while she was still a child, and she and she was educated at the Bedford Girls Modern School. She showed a talent for needlework, claiming to have been able to knit, embroider. At the age of seventeen, she left school and went to work at a registration office at Bedford Town Hall. She then moved to London, where she worked briefly in an office before taking a stockroom job at Liberty & Co in 1950. She worked her way upwards to selling over the counter, and this would serve as her apprenticeship, and led to her gaining a job as designer for Jaeger in 1956. While there, she helped develop the Young Jaeger fashion label, Muir declined, as she did not wish to design for the mass market. Undeterred, Barnes offered to fund her own label. From the outset, Muirs designs demonstrated the pared-down understatement and easy fit that would become her design signature, Jane & Jane was one of the first companies to bring couture standards and quality to the wholesale fashion industry. Muir used Liberty textiles in many of her designs, Jean Muir Ltd. was founded in August 1966 by Jean Muir and her husband Harry Leuckert in partnership. The first collection was presented in October, the designs continued the tradition established at Jane & Jane. Muir used the best quality fabrics, working in silk, cashmere, jersey and crepe, with a focus on form and she made coats and jackets from soft leather and supple suede. Muir rarely used printed textiles, and avoided unnecessary decoration, where she used decoration, it was integral to the garment, such as pintucking, decorative but functional buttons or rows of parallel topstitching on cuffs or collars for reinforcement. During the 1980s, Muir sometimes decorated clothing with sequins, Muirs designs were aimed towards the woman with a mature outlook, regardless of age. She avoided creating clothes for fantasy figures, but focused on modern and she ignored the fads of high fashion design, but focused on creating a consistently evolving series of understated, sober clothes. She was a sensualist who cared about how her clothes felt to wear as well as how they looked to others, Muir placed pockets at hip level to encourage the wearer to hold her shoulders back confidently. She eliminated bust darts as she preferred to mould fabric rather than cut it and her designs were intended to fit into a limited and integrated wardrobe, and to avoid distracting the wearer
Jean Muir
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Jean Muir CBE, FCSD
Jean Muir
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Jean Muir by
Glenys Barton 1991
13.
Charles Jourdan
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Charles Jourdan was a French fashion designer known best for his designs of womens shoes starting in 1919. After 2000 the company went into decline and was sold to investment bankers, originally trained as a shoemaker, after World War I Jourdan opened a shoe shop in Romans in the Drôme region of France, the center of Frances shoe industry. His lines of womens shoes prospered, and this became the focus of his career, after only two years Jourdan moved his shoe company into a factory on Boulevard Voltaire in 1921 and employed over 30 people in Romans. In the 1930s, Jourdan was the first shoe designer to place advertisements in the fashion magazines. In 1947 his three sons Rene, Charles and Roland joined the company, and in 1950 they expanded beyond France, one regular customer was none other than Lady Diana Spencer who, eventually became Princess of Wales. Jourdan and his sons opened his first boutique in Paris in 1957 and they were granted a license to design and manufacture shoes under the Christian Dior brand in 1959 and in more recent years have also created designs under the Pierre Cardin label. Jourdan and the Levines are arguably the most innovative designers to use new materials in womens shoes in the period since World War II, in the 1960s and early 1970s Jourdan used its magazine advertising campaigns to advance its avant-garde image by using imagery from the surrealist photographer Guy Bourdin. In 1975 ready-to-wear clothing and handbags were added to the Jourdan line, Charles Jourdan died in Paris in 1976, but the company continued under the leadership of his sons. During this decade Roland Jourdan began to lead the companys designs, taking the basic pump, lengthening the toe, by this time Jourdan boutiques were open in major cities across Europe and in North America. Roland Jourdan retired in 1981, and the company subsequently was known for more conservative designs, Jourdan gained unintended publicity from the exposure of Imelda Marcos excesses in shoe fashion in 1986, among them many Jourdan stilettos. The company has created a limited number of perfumes, including a scent called Stiletto in 1996 to recognize the 75th anniversary of the firm. To honor Paris the bottle was shaped like the Eiffel Tower, in mid-2002 the company filed for bankruptcy with over $9 million in debt and was reorganized as the Jourdan family sold its stake to a Luxembourg investment fund, Lux Diversity. Sales had fallen to only 65,000 pairs per year, patrick Cox, a Canadian who had launched his own shoe label, was named head designer of Charles Jourdan in 2003. In 2005 he left the firm and was replaced by Josephus Thimister, Charles Jourdan may also be responsible for the somewhat obscure titular cocktail
Charles Jourdan
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Shoes
14.
Christian Dior SA
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Christian Dior SE, commonly known as Dior, is a French luxury goods company controlled and chaired by French businessman Bernard Arnault, who also heads LVMH – the worlds largest luxury group. Dior itself holds 42. 36% shares of and 59. 01% voting rights within LVMH, while the Christian Dior label remains largely for womens offerings, the company also operates the Dior Homme division for men and the baby Dior label for childrens wear. Products are sold throughout its portfolio of retail stores worldwide, as well as through its online store, the House of Dior was established on 16 December 1946, in a private house at 30 Avenue Montaigne Paris B. However, the current Dior corporation celebrates 1947 as the opening year, Dior was financially backed by wealthy businessman Marcel Boussac. Boussac had originally invited Dior to design for Philippe et Gaston, the new couture house became a part of a vertically integrated textile business already operated by Boussac. Its capital was at FFr 6 million and workforce at 80 employees, Diors creativity also negotiated him a good salary. On 12 February 1947, Dior launched his first fashion collection for Spring–Summer 1947, the show of 90 models of his first collection on six mannequins was presented in the salons of the companys headquarters at 30 Avenue Montaigne. Originally, the two lines were named Corolle and Huit, however, the new collection went down in fashion history as the New Look after the editor-in-chief of Harpers Bazaar Carmel Snow exclaimed, Its such a New Look. At a time of post-war fabric restrictions, Dior used up to twenty yards of extravagant fabrics for his creations, as a result, Paris, which had fallen from its position as the capital of the fashion world after WWII, regained its preeminence. The New Look was welcomed in western Europe as an antidote to the austerity of wartime and de-feminizing uniforms. According to Harold Koda, The Costume Institute curator in charge, not everyone was pleased with the New Look, however. Some considered the amount of material to be wasteful, especially after years of cloth rationing, feminists in particular were outraged, feeling that the new designs with its return to corsets were restrictive and regressive, and that Diors designs took away womens independence. Fellow designer Coco Chanel remarked, “Only a man who never was intimate with a woman could design something that uncomfortable. ”Available references contradict themselves whether Christian Dior Parfums was established in 1947 or 1948. The Dior corporation itself lists the founding of Christian Dior Parfums as 1947, with the launch of its first perfume, Dior revolutionized the perfumery industry with the launch of the highly popular Miss Dior parfum, which was named after Catherine Dior. Christian Dior Ltd owned 25%, manager of Coty perfumes held 35%, pierre Cardin was made head of the Dior workshop from 1947 until 1950. In 1948, a New York City Christian Dior Parfums branch was established—this could be the cause of establishment-date issue. The modern Dior corporation also notes that a luxury ready-to-wear house is established in New York at the corner of 5th Avenue and 57th Street, in 1949, the Diorama perfume is released and by 1949, the New Look line alone made a profit FFr 12.7 million. Expansion from France began by the end of 1949 with the opening of a Christian Dior boutique in New York City, by the end of the year, Dior fashions made up 75% of Pariss fashion exports and 5% of Frances total export revenue
Christian Dior SA
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"Bar" suit, 1947. As displayed in Moscow, 2011.
Christian Dior SA
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Christian Dior SE
Christian Dior SA
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Eva Perón, the First Lady of Argentina, wearing a Dior Dress in 1950
Christian Dior SA
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A Dior Haute Couture jacket designed by
Marc Bohan. The Haute Couture label is clearly visible in the enlarged photo.
15.
Jaeger (clothing)
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Jaeger /ˈjeɪɡə/ is a United Kingdom-based fashion brand and retailer of menswear and womenswear. Formerly owned by Harold Tillman, and acquired by Better Capital in 2011, jaegers writings about the value of wearing animal fibres next to the skin had attracted fans including George Bernard Shaw. The woollen undergarments were worn by many explorers – including Ernest Shackleton and it had received its first Royal Warrant by 1910. Jaeger began creating wool suits, and by the start of World War I it had cut its associations with Germany, long johns for British and Commonwealth troops kept the company going during the war, but by the 1920s it had switched to fashion. Natural fibres remained central to the brand – the camel hair coat was a Jaeger invention and it also utilised other exotic woollen fibres such as cashmere, angora, jaegers yarns were also popularised via knitting patterns in the 1940s. The clothing was modelled by both Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe in the 1950s, during the 1960s Jaeger clothes were modelled by Jean Shrimpton and photographed by David Bailey – giving it credibility with a younger audience. In 1966, a Jaeger linen dress formed part of the Dress of the Year, the company had been bought by Coats Paton – later Coats Viyella – in 1967. By the 1990s, Jaeger was struggling, possibly because its base was ageing with the brand. It has also suggested that the influx of European brands perceived as more fashionable during the 1980s – including MaxMara. The company hired Bella Freud to update its image and she introduced designs inspired by its 1930s and 40s styles, along with a skirt, bomber jacket. Coats sold Jaeger for a fee to entrepreneur and former Queens Park Rangers F. C. chair Richard Thompson in 2003 – by this stage it was a chain with almost 250 shops. It was swiftly re-sold by Thompson to retail entrepreneur and then British Fashion Council chair Harold Tillman, at this stage, the company was described as, on its knees. In 2004, Belinda Earl – formerly of Debenhams – was employed as CEO, for a time, it was tipped as the next Burberry and the appointment of Stuart Stockdale as design director garnered positive publicity. Its appearance at 2008 London Fashion Week, for the first time in its history also appeared to mark a stronger brand image, as of 2011, Jaeger had 45 UK stores and shipped to 38 countries worldwide. In the same year it was commissioned to create uniforms for staff at Kensington Palace, in April 2012 Jaeger was acquired by Better Capital. In July 2013 Colin Henry was employed as CEO, in the same year, Jaeger appointed creative directors Jsen Wintle and Sheila McKain-Waid. Official site Better Capital Jaeger at V&A collections Pictorial history of Jaeger from The Guardian
Jaeger (clothing)
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Jaeger
16.
Simone Mirman
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Simone Mirman was a Paris-born milliner based in London, chiefly known for her designs for the British Royal Family. Simone Parmentier was born in Paris on 18 May 1912 to middle-class Catholic parents, in her early 20s Simone met a Jewish medical student, Serge Mirman, whose communist beliefs made him undesirable to her parents. Despite neither speaking English, the couple eloped to London in 1937, in London, Simone worked with the couturiere Elsa Schiaparelli, who was renowned for her bold millinery designs and concepts. She headed the hat department of Schiaparellis London branch in Upper Grosvenor Street, however, Schiaparelli generously gave Simone the contact details of her English clientele, enabling her to successfully launch her own business. During the Second World War the newly-wed, impoverished Mirmans lived in an attic on Spring Street in Paddington. Each morning, they hid the evidence of their real life, as clothing coupons were not required for hats, there was a steady demand for the designs Mirman created out of scraps and oddments. In 1947, Mirman was able to better premises near Hyde Park, and in 1952, she moved to Chesham Place, Belgravia. By the early 1950s Mirman was supplying hats to the designers Norman Hartnell, Hardy Amies and she also supplied faithfully copied Dior model hats to John Cavanaghs 1952 debut fashion show – the first time Dior had allowed a copy of his hat design to be used by another couturier. It was through Serge Mirman that Diors licensed hosiery became established upon the London retail scene, along with Royalty, her notable clients included the actresses Vivien Leigh and Valerie Hobson, as well as members of the English aristocracy and society. On a less exalted level, Mirman designed caps to accompany the 1967 policewoman uniforms designed by Norman Hartnell, through the 1960s and 1970s Mirman continued making fashionable hats. She created fun versions of the 1960s helmet hats encrusted with plastic gems, ernestine Carter chose one of these hats to complete the 1966 Dress Of The Year ensemble. Serge also helped his wife design, and he was responsible for the more outlandish. After Serge died in 1980, Simone Mirman closed down her Belgravia salon, Sophie went on to found Sock Shop and the childrenswear boutique Trotters. Despite a nervous Mirman breaking protocol by entering through the front door of the Palace, Mirman was later granted the Royal warrants of Queen Elizabeth II and the Queen Mother in recognition of her services. A typical Mirman design for the Queen was the cloche hat densely covered with small flowers, the prototype for the Queens Silver Jubilee hat is in the collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum. In 2003 several Mirman hats were displayed alongside clothes worn by the Queen in an exhibition at the Kensington Palace State Apartments, Simone Mirman retired in 1990 and returned to France, where she took up oil painting as a hobby until losing her eyesight. She died in 2008 at the age of 96, if your features are even, you can wear a small hat even though your face is large. A small woman can wear a big hat in spite of all the warnings against it and she should never try to wear a hat to make her look taller
Simone Mirman
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Simone Mirman with a couple of her designs. Late 1950s.
17.
Ernestine Carter
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Ernestine Marie Carter OBE was an American-born British museum curator, journalist, and fashion writer. She became hugely influential in her roles as womens editor, in particular, she was instrumental in adding her authority to bolster the growing reputation of designers such as Mary Quant, Jean Muir, Gina Fratini and John Bates. Ernestine Marie Fantl was born on 10 October 1906 in Savannah, Georgia and she studied modern and contemporary art and design at Wellesley College, Massachusetts, from which she graduated in 1927. She started out as an assistant at the newly formed Museum of Modern Art, New York City. In 1936 she married a British antiquarian book dealer, John Waynflete Carter, during the Second World War Carter was employed by the British Ministry of Information. She worked on exhibitions and edited a book of photographs by Lee Miller titled Grim Glory, the book, which included a foreword by Edward R. Murrow, went into five printings. Later in the war, Carter went to work for the U. S. office of war information in London, Carter worked on the important design exhibition Britain Can Make It, organised by the Council of Industrial Design and held at the Victoria and Albert Museum in 1946. That same year she became editor for Harpers Bazaar. Her first trip to Paris for the magazine was to report on Christian Diors landmark New Look collection, from 1952-54, she wrote her first newspaper column, a cookery section for The Observer, during which time she published a cookbook called Flash In The Pan. In 1955, Carter began editing the page of The Sunday Times. She became well known for the standard of her journalism and writing. Carter encouraged the emergence of London as a centre of fashion in the 1960s. Her intelligent prose and high standards led to her being recognised as a figure in the world of fashion. In 1962, Carter was appointed to the National Council for Diplomas in Art and Design and she was appointed an OBE in 1964. In the same year, she became a fellow of the Royal Society of Arts, two years later, she was appointed associate editor of The Sunday Times, a role she held until her retirement from the paper in 1972. After her retirement in 1972, Ernestine Carter wrote several books on fashion history and she died on 1 August 1983 at her home in Chelsea, London. The Fashion Museum, Bath holds an important archive of more than 2000 fashion photographs from The Sunday Times during Carters tenure there and this is known both as the Ernestine Carter Collection and as The Sunday Times Fashion Archive. The Fashion Museum and the Victoria and Albert Museum both own garments from Carters wardrobe, Flash In The Pan 20th Century Fashion, a Scrapbook The Changing World of Fashion Magic Names of Fashion With Tongue in Chic
Ernestine Carter
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Ernestine Carter in 1974. Photograph by Stanley Devon.
18.
The Sunday Times
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The Sunday Times is the largest-selling British national newspaper in the quality press market category. It is published by Times Newspapers Ltd, a subsidiary of News UK, Times Newspapers also publishes The Times. The two papers were founded independently and have been under common ownership only since 1966 and they were bought by News International in 1981. The Sunday Times occupies a dominant position in the quality Sunday market, its circulation of just under one million equals that of its rivals, The Sunday Telegraph and The Observer. While some other national newspapers moved to a format in the early 2000s. It sells more than twice as many copies as its sister paper, The Times, the Sunday Times has acquired a reputation for the strength of its investigative reporting – much of it by its award-winning Insight team – and also for its wide-ranging foreign coverage. It has a number of writers, columnists and commentators including Jeremy Clarkson. It was Britains first multi-section newspaper and remains substantially larger than its rivals, a typical edition contains the equivalent of 450 to 500 tabloid pages. Besides the main section, it has standalone News Review, Business, Sport, Money. There are three magazines and two tabloid supplements and it publishes The Sunday Times Bestseller List of books in Britain, and a list of the 100 Best Companies to Work For, focusing on UK companies. It also organises The Sunday Times Oxford Literary Festival, held annually, and The Sunday Times Festival of Education, the paper began publication on 18 February 1821 as The New Observer, but from 21 April its title was changed to the Independent Observer. On 20 October 1822 it was reborn as The Sunday Times, in January 1823, White sold the paper to Daniel Whittle Harvey, a radical politician. The paper was bought in 1887 by Alice Cornwell, whose father George Cornwell made a fortune in mining in Australia and she then sold it in 1893 to Frederick Beer, who already owned Observer. Beer appointed his wife, Rachel Sassoon Beer, as editor and she was already editor of Observer – the first woman to run a national newspaper – and continued to edit both titles until 1901. There was a change of ownership in 1903, and then in 1915 the paper was bought by William Berry and his brother, Gomer Berry, later ennobled as Lord Camrose. In 1943, the Kemsley Newspapers Group was established, with The Sunday Times becoming its flagship paper, at this time, Kemsley was the largest newspaper group in Britain. On 12 November 1945, Ian Fleming, who later created James Bond, joined the paper as foreign manager, the following month, circulation reached 500,000. On 28 September 1958 the paper launched a separate Review section, in 1959 the Kemsley group was bought by Lord Thomson, and in October 1960 circulation reached one million for the first time
The Sunday Times
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Plaque to The first number of The Sunday Times, 4 Salisbury Court, London EC4Y
The Sunday Times
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Edition number 9,813 of The Sunday Times, published on 7 October 2012
19.
Pantsuit
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A pantsuit or pant suit, also known as a trouser suit outside the United States, is a womans suit of clothing consisting of trousers and a matching or coordinating coat or jacket. Formerly, the fashion for women included some form of coat. The pantsuit was introduced in the 1920s, when a number of women adopted a masculine style, including pantsuits, hats. However, the term, trouser suit had been used in Britain during the First World War, during the 1960s trouser suits for women became increasingly widespread. Designers such as Foale and Tuffin in London and Luba Marks in the United States were early promoters of trouser suits, in 1966 Yves Saint-Laurent introduced his Le Smoking, an evening pantsuit for women that mimicked a mans tuxedo. In Britain a social watershed was crossed in 1967 when Lady Chichester, wife of the navigator Sir Francis Chichester, pantsuits were often deprecated as inappropriately masculine clothing for women. For example, until 1993, women were not permitted to wear pantsuits on the United States Senate floor and this was in part due to the influence of a Facebook group of 2.9 million Hillary Clinton supporters called Pantsuit Nation
Pantsuit
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Hillary Clinton wearing a pantsuit as she is sworn in as Senator.
20.
The Daily Mirror
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The Daily Mirror is a British national daily tabloid newspaper founded in 1903. It is owned by parent company Trinity Mirror, from 1985 to 1987, and from 1997 to 2002, the title on its masthead was simply The Mirror. It had a daily print circulation of 716,923 in December 2016. Its Sunday sister paper is the Sunday Mirror, originally pitched to the middle class reader, it was transformed into a working-class newspaper after 1934, in order to reach a large, lowbrow audience. The Mirror has had a number of owners and it was founded by Alfred Harmsworth, who sold it to his brother Harold Harmsworth in 1913. In 1963 a restructuring of the interests of the Harmsworth family led to the Mirror becoming a part of International Publishing Corporation. The Mirror was owned by Robert Maxwell between 1984 and 1991, the paper went through a protracted period of crisis after his death before merging with the regional newspaper group Trinity in 1999 to form Trinity Mirror. The paper has supported the Labour Party since the 1945 general election. The Daily Mirror was launched on 2 November 1903 by Alfred Harmsworth as a newspaper for women, hence the name, he said, I intend it to be really a mirror of feminine life as well on its grave as on its lighter sides. To be entertaining without being frivolous, and serious without being dull and it was not an immediate success and in 1904 Harmsworth decided to turn it into a pictorial newspaper with a broader focus. Harmsworth appointed Hamilton Fyfe as editor and all of the female journalists were fired. The masthead was changed to The Daily Illustrated Mirror, which ran from 26 January to 27 April 1904, when it reverted to The Daily Mirror. The first issue of the paper did not have advertisements on the front page as previously. Two days later, the price was dropped to one halfpenny and to the masthead was added, circulation grew to 466,000 making it the second-largest morning newspaper. Alfred Harmsworth sold the newspaper to his brother Harold Harmsworth in 1913, in 1917, the price was increased to one penny. Circulation continued to grow, in 1919, some issues more than a million copies a day. Lord Rothermere was a friend of Benito Mussolini and Adolf Hitler, the Mirror was the first British paper to adopt the appearance of the New York tabloids. By 1939, the publication was selling 1.4 million copies a day, in 1937, Hugh McClelland introduced his wild Western comic strip Beelzebub Jones in the Daily Mirror
The Daily Mirror
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Daily Mirror
The Daily Mirror
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Alfred Harmsworth (later Lord Northcliffe), founder of the Daily Mirror
The Daily Mirror
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Harold Harmsworth, 1st Viscount Rothermere
The Daily Mirror
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Front page of the Mirror 24 June 1996, with headline "ACHTUNG! SURRENDER For you Fritz, ze Euro 96 Championship is over", and accompanying contribution from the editor, "Mirror declares football war on Germany"
21.
Bally Shoe
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The Bally company was founded as Bally & Co high fashion in 1851 by Carl Franz Bally and his brother Fritz in the basement of their family home in Schönenwerd in the Canton of Solothurn, Switzerland. Bally was founded by Carl Franz Bally and his original family business was the manufacture of elastic ribbon. During a business trip to Paris in 1849, Carl Franz wanted to buy his wife some lace-up booties - the popular shoe of the day. Unable to recall her exact size, he decided to buy twelve pairs in a range of sizes, upon visiting the Parisian factory where the booties were made, he noticed that each shoe featured buttons with elastic closures similar to the kind his family produced in Switzerland. Inspired by the possibility of creating jobs and improving the lives of local residents. Together with his brother Fritz, Carl Franz employed designers to assist and together, the Bally Company was established in Schönenwerd in 1851 and three years later, the first factory located in the village centre was built. By the 1870s, Bally was recognised as an industry leader. The company’s name changed to C. F. Bally, Bally & Sons when the brand’s founding pioneer handed the company reins to his sons in 1892. Carl Franz died in 1899 but undeniably passed on his spirit to his sons. Bally grew internationally and opened stores in Geneva and Montevideo in 1870, followed by Buenos Aires, Paris, in the 1880s, Bally was also one of the very first European luxury goods brands to open in post-reform and opening China. Bally is currently under the leadership of CEO Frédéric de Narp, with Pablo Coppola as Design Director, today, the company is headquartered in Caslano, Ticino, Switzerland and run by JAB Holdings. The company announced that Frédéric de Narp, an executive at Harry Winston. Bally has boutiques in Sydney, Melbourne, Doncaster, Perth, and Sydney International Airport
Bally Shoe
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Bally store in
Hong Kong
22.
Ossie Clark
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Raymond Ossie Clark was an English fashion designer who was a major figure in the Swinging Sixties scene in London and the fashion industry in that era. Clark is now renowned for his designs by present-day designers. Clark is compared to the 1960s fashion great Biba and influenced other designers, including Yves Saint Laurent, Anna Sui. Manolo Blahnik has said of Ossie Clarks work, He created a magic with the body. Ossie Clark and Ossie Clark for Radley clothes are highly sought after, born in Warrington, Lancashire, England in 1942, Raymond Clark, along with his parents Anne and Samuel Clark and his siblings, moved to Oswaldtwistle during the war, hence his nickname, Ossie. Ossies mother, Anne Grace Clark, was in labour with Ossie for seven days during an air raid in the Second World War, Anne had been expecting a girl and so had no name picked out for her new baby. She let the midwife name him Raymond, Ossie was the youngest of six children. Ossie and his brother John sang in the choir at St Oswalds Church in Winwick. Family and friends noted that from a early age he was brilliant at doing anything. Young Ossie would make clothes for his nieces and nephews and he practised tailoring clothing on his dolls and designed swimsuits for the neighbourhood girls when not yet 10 years old. Clark pored over these magazines and absorbed the glamour and cutting edge fashion, at the age of 13 Ossie studied architecture in school. He later said that the experience was invaluable, the class taught him the fundamentals of proportion, height and volume. He would later go on to use all of these to great effect in his fashion designs, soon after leaving Beamont Secondary Technical School, Clark attended the Regional College of Art in Manchester at aged 16. Ossie had to get up early in the morning to make the long trip from home to college each day. Anne Clark would give Ossie prescribed pills to keep him awake and this would be the start of a lifelong addiction to both prescribed and illegal drugs. While attending college in Manchester, Clark was introduced to Celia Birtwell by a close friend, the pair started out as just good friends but that friendship soon developed into a love affair. Ossie also became friends with artist David Hockney during this period. Clark and Hockney took a trip to New York City together while still at college where they made many valuable connections in the fashion, art
Ossie Clark
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Ossie Clark
Ossie Clark
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Ossie Clark satin and chiffon trouser suit in 'Botticelli' print, 1969
23.
Celia Birtwell
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She was well known for her prints which epitomised the 1960s/70s. After a period away from the limelight, she returned to fashion in the early 21st century, the eldest daughter of a culture-loving engineer and a seamstress, Birtwell was born in Bury and raised in Prestwich, both then in Lancashire. From the age of 13 she studied design at the Royal Technical College. Lowry, a student who often visited the college and the adjacent Salford Library. In 1959 she met the fashion designer Ossie Clark in the Cona Coffee Bar in Manchester, Celia Birtwell and Ossie Clarks was an almost perfect marriage of style, and their work together helped define the era. The collaboration began with a 1966 collection for the Quorum boutique in London and it was the Clarks who began the modern catwalk show, the previous procession of modelled clothes was put to music, the London glitterati were invited, and the shows became events. He was a genius, better than Yves Saint Laurent and his cut – although he lifted it from the 1930s, he had his own take on it – even plump women felt pretty in. He didnt dress just the slimmest, which is always easier, I thought his garments were wonderful. I used to see construction and the way hed get excited about how hed put a new sleeve in, Celia and Ossie had two children together, Albert and George, but their private relationship deteriorated and they divorced in 1974. In 2005, it featured on the Today programmes shortlist of the Greatest Painting in Britain and she also appears in the 1974 Hockney biopic, A Bigger Splash. Again she built up a reputation for innovative and witty design and her first success came with her own take on a 16th-century animal print she called Animal Solo, followed later by the first, and much copied, white on white voile and muslin fabrics. These fabrics are now to be seen in homes, hotels and public spaces, including Claridges and The Lanesborough hotels in London, The Grand Hotel, Leeds. The four collections were a sell-out success, in April 2008, Birthwell designed a limited collection for American fashion retailer Express. In 2008, Millets launched a camping and outdoor footwear and clothing range which she had designed, new lines were added to the range for Summer 2009. In 2010, she created a 25-piece collection for John Lewis and her book Celia Birtwell, written with Dominic Lutyens, featuring photographs, fashion sketches and memoir, was published by Quadrille in 2011. 250 limited edition fabric covered box sets which included a copy of her book. Birtwell was the castaway on Desert Island Discs on BBC Radio 4 on Sunday 7 October 2012 and she was appointed Commander of the Order of the British Empire in the 2011 Birthday Honours
Celia Birtwell
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The Peel Building,
University of Salford, formerly the Royal Technical College, Salford
Celia Birtwell
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Ossie Clark chiffon and satin trouser suit in Celia Birtwell's 'Botticelli' print, 1969
Celia Birtwell
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18th century
24.
Prudence Glynn
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Prudence Glynn was a British fashion journalist and author, best known for her long-running role as the first fashion editor of The Times. She championed new designers and was a commentator about the way the industry operated. Glynn – known as Lady Windlesham in private life – was a formidable character and her obituary in The Times described her as a figure who was feared and respected rather than loved. A response a few days later in The Times, from her former secretary, prudence Loveday Glynn was the youngest of four children born to retired army officer Lieutenant-Colonel Rupert Trevor Wallace Glynn and Evelyn Margaret Glynn. She grew up in Tetsworth, Oxfordshire and was educated at Downe House School in Berkshire, Glynn left school and went straight into a job in advertising. Her first foray into the world of fashion was working for the house of Frank Usher. From there, she moved into journalism, writing for womens magazines and this was part of a new crop of magazines featuring fashion targeting a younger audience. At Womans Mirror, Glynn was one of the first to feature Twiggy, although Glynn considered Twiggy too small for regular fashion features, she did use her for head shots. In 1965, Glynn married the Conservative Party politician and Anglo-Irish peer David Hennessy, Glynn was recruited to The Times in 1966. Then editor William Haley was working to broaden the image and had appointed Susanne Puddefoot to supervise a new daily womens page. Implicit in her brief was to make the more attractive to female readers, previously provided with occasional home cooking tips. It was she who recruited Glynn as the papers first fashion editor, the first page authored by Glynn appeared on 3 May 1966. In 1967, new Times editor William Rees-Mogg introduced journalist bylines, Glynn was witty, sometimes acerbic, and her critics felt she didnt treat the world of fashion as seriously as she should. It was reported that people read her pages not because they were interested in clothes. However, her prose was widely respected – it was a joke on the paper that her sentences were even longer than those of Bernard Levin. She often brought humour into the fashion pages, the newest solution to the sun/rain transition is the crystal clear cover up. If you find their faintly ectoplasmic look a little eerie, they share the same quality of melting into the background too. Glynn – who was married to a peer of the realm – sometimes poked fun at British tradition. Glynn was a supporter of homegrown fashion talent and promoted many of the new designers emerging in the 1960s
Prudence Glynn
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Prudence Glynn, portrait by Deirdre Daines
25.
The Times
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The Times is a British daily national newspaper based in London, England. It began in 1785 under the title The Daily Universal Register, the Times and its sister paper The Sunday Times are published by Times Newspapers, since 1981 a subsidiary of News UK, itself wholly owned by News Corp. The Times and The Sunday Times do not share editorial staff, were founded independently and have only had common ownership since 1967 and its news and its editorial comment have in general been carefully coordinated, and have at most times been handled with an earnest sense of responsibility. While the paper has admitted some trivia to its columns, its emphasis has been on important public affairs treated with an eye to the best interests of Britain. To guide this treatment, the editors have for long periods been in touch with 10 Downing Street. In these countries, the newspaper is often referred to as The London Times or The Times of London, although the newspaper is of national scope, in November 2006 The Times began printing headlines in a new font, Times Modern. The Times was printed in broadsheet format for 219 years, the Sunday Times remains a broadsheet. The Times had a daily circulation of 446,164 in December 2016, in the same period. An American edition of The Times has been published since 6 June 2006 and it has been heavily used by scholars and researchers because of its widespread availability in libraries and its detailed index. A complete historical file of the paper, up to 2010, is online from Gale Cengage Learning. The Times was founded by publisher John Walter on 1 January 1785 as The Daily Universal Register, Walter had lost his job by the end of 1784 after the insurance company where he was working went bankrupt because of the complaints of a Jamaican hurricane. Being unemployed, Walter decided to set a new business up and it was in that time when Henry Johnson invented the logography, a new typography that was faster and more precise. Walter bought the patent and to use it, he decided to open a printing house. The first publication of the newspaper The Daily Universal Register in Great Britain was 1 January 1785, unhappy because people always omitted the word Universal, Ellias changed the title after 940 editions on 1 January 1788 to The Times. In 1803, Walter handed ownership and editorship to his son of the same name, the Times used contributions from significant figures in the fields of politics, science, literature, and the arts to build its reputation. For much of its life, the profits of The Times were very large. Beginning in 1814, the paper was printed on the new steam-driven cylinder press developed by Friedrich Koenig, in 1815, The Times had a circulation of 5,000. Thomas Barnes was appointed editor in 1817
The Times
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Front page of The Times from 4 December 1788
The Times
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Roy Thomson
The Times
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A wounded British officer reading The Times's report of the end of the
Crimean War, in
John Everett Millais ' painting
Peace Concluded.
The Times
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John Walter, the founder of The Times
26.
Bill Gibb
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William Elphinstone Bill Gibb was a Scottish fashion designer who became renowned in the 1960s and 70s for his unusual and flattering designs. Gibb was born near New Pitsligo, a village in Aberdeenshire in Scotland. His teachers encouraged him to apply for art school in London, after graduating top of his class, Gibb was awarded a scholarship to the Royal College of Art, but before completing his degree, he left to start up in business. Between 1969–1972, as a designer, Gibb designed for the London fashion house Baccarat. In 1972 Gibb launched his own company, Bill Gibb Fashion Group, which ran until 1988, and in 1975 he opened his first shop in London, on Bond Street. Beatrix Miller of Vogue selected one of Gibbs designs for Baccarat and that same year, Harrods opened a dedicated area for Gibbs designs, calling it the Bill Gibb Room, and the model Twiggy approached Gibb to create several historically-inspired dresses for her. She wore a Renaissance evening dress featuring printed textiles based on 1520s Hans Holbein drawings to the Daily Mirrors Fashion Celebrity Dinner in 1970, another gown made from various patterned textiles that Twiggy wore to the 1971 film première of The Boy Friend drew a great deal of media attention. Gibb presented his first collection under his own name in 1972 and his fantastical creations were based on nature, with unexpected combinations of fur, feathers, printed leather, and brightly coloured clinging fabrics. However, his most important work was in knitwear, co-designed with Kaffe Fasset, during the 1970s, Gibb did take on other design commissions, including creating a range of shoe designs for the high-end shoe manufacturer Rayne. Later, in the 1980s, Gibb collaborated with another Leicestershire manufacturer, Annette Carol, Gibb was not a good businessperson, and his business was not financially successful, and collapsed in 1977,1979 and 1980. In 1985, he made a comeback with his Bronze Age collection, co-designed with Kaffe Fassett and featuring hats by Stephen Jones, however it did not attract buyers. Gibb was described as one of the most gentle, kindly and considerate human beings I have ever met, Twiggy described him as her knight in shining armour, and as a sweet, sunny farm boy in baggy corduroys whom I absolutely adored. For a while in the late 1960s Gibb was in a relationship with Kaffe Fassett, at the time of Gibbs death of bowel cancer in 1988, the Daily Mail reported that he died of AIDS, which was strongly denied by his friends and family. Webster, writing for the Glasgow Herald also strongly refuted these claims, despite this, Bill Gibb is still sometimes listed as an AIDS death. In 2008, the designer Giles Deacon cited Bill Gibbs designs as a significant influence on his work, alongside Deacon, John Galliano has also spoken out in praise of Bill Gibbs work for reflecting the romantic essence of British style. Retrospective exhibition at Aberdeen Art Gallery,1990, Bill Gibb, A Personal Journey at the Fashion Museum, Bath Billy, Bill Gibbs Moment In Time at the Fashion and Textile Museum Permanent gallery at Frasersburgh Heritage Centre, Aberdeenshire. Bill Gibb, a tribute to the designer of the 70s. City of Aberdeen, City Arts Department, webb, Iain R. Bill Gibb, fashion and fantasy
Bill Gibb
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Bill Gibb in 1976 wearing knitwear of his own design
Bill Gibb
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Late 1970s gown by Bill Gibb
27.
Kaffe Fassett
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Kaffe Fassett, is an American-born artist who is best known for his colourful designs in the decorative arts—needlepoint, patchwork, knitting, painting and ceramics. While still a child, Fassett renamed himself after an Egyptian boy character from the book Boy of the Pyramid by Ruth Fosdick Jones) His name rhymes with safe asset. The second of five children, Fassett was born in 1937 in San Francisco, California, to parents William and Madeleine, who built the successful Nepenthe restaurant in Big Sur, California. He received a scholarship to the School of the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston at the age of 19, in the late 1960s Fassett met the Scottish fashion designer Bill Gibb. Fassett and Gibb worked together through to the end, collaborating on Gibbs final collection in 1985, Fassetts work attracts a considerable following worldwide. His work was the subject of a 1988 one-man show at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, being more concerned with colour and design, Fassett has also worked extensively in other textile arts. He was a supplier of tapestries to Womens Home Industries and its designer Beatrice Bellini, attracting a number of private commissions and he went on to design tapestry kits for Hugh Ehrman. Author of more than 40 books, Fassett concentrates on teaching the colour, in addition to books, he has hosted craft-related television and radio programmes for the BBC and Channel 4, including his own show, Glorious Colour. His fabric prints are largely for the market along with Indian stripes fabric. An exhibition of Fassetts quilts, knitting and needlepoint at the Modemuseum Hasselt, Belgium in 2007, followed a solo show in 2006 at the Prince Eugens Waldemarsudde. He made a tour of Australia and New Zealand. In 2013, Fassett followed up his 1988 exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum with Kaffe Fassett - A Life in Colour at the Fashion and Textile Museum in London. The exhibit features over 100 works including nine foot wide knitwear and throws, patchwork quilts, Fassett even designed a tactile installation for visitors to touch so that they would get a better understanding of the structure behind his work. He is a designer for Rowan Patchwork and Quilting and the primary knitwear designer for Rowan Yarns. Fassett has resided in England since 1964 and he lives with Brandon Mably, his partner and studio manager
Kaffe Fassett
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A Kaffe Fassett quilt depicting Hat Boxes, on display at
Whipps Cross Hospital, London
Kaffe Fassett
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Styles
Kaffe Fassett
Kaffe Fassett
28.
Vogue (British magazine)
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The British edition of the fashion magazine Vogue has been published since autumn 1916. Its current editor stated that, “Vogue’s power is universally acknowledged, it’s the place everybody wants to be if they want to be in the world of fashion and 85% of the magazine’s readers agree that “Vogue is the Fashion Bible”. The magazine is considered to be one that links fashion to high society and class, teaching its readers how to ‘assume a distinctively chic, as a branch-off of American Vogue, British Vogue is a magazine whose success is based upon its advertising rather than its sales revenue. In 2007, it ran 2,020 pages of advertising at an average of £16,000 a page and it is deemed to be more commercial than other editions of Vogue. British Vogue is the most profitable British magazine as well as the most profitable edition of Vogue besides the US, during the First World War, Condé Nast, Vogue’s publisher, had to deal with restrictions on overseas shipping as well as paper shortages in America. The British edition of Vogue was the answer to this problem, under the London editions first editor, Elspeth Champcommunal, the magazine was essentially the same as the American edition, except for its British English spellings. However, Champcommunal thought it important that Vogue be more than a fashion magazine and it featured articles on ‘society and sporting news… Health and beauty advice… travelogues… and editorials’, making it a skillfully mixed cocktail. Champcommunal held her position until 1922. There were also features from noted English writers such as Virginia Woolf. Due to Todds changes, the magazine lost much of its audience, British Vogue is not believed to have really taken off until after its third editor, Alison Settle, was appointed in 1926. Under Audrey Withers, the magazine took a literary direction. British Vogue’s current editor-in-chief is Alexandra Shulman, who took the reins in 1992, during her time as editor, the magazine has drawn more than a million readers. Shulman is especially known for developing collector’s issues of British Vogue, such as the ‘Gold Millennium Issue’ where celebrities, Shulman is also praised for her use of up and coming photographers like Mario Testino. The editor has also known for her attempt to change the face of fashion. She has pushed designers to stop using size-zero models, Shulman stated that super-skinny models are no longer acceptable, receiving positive notes from women all over the world. Today, British Vogue has become quite modernised, on the magazine’s website there are more than 25 fashion blogs on beauty, fashion, and culture. You can also find VogueTV which features recent fashion videos from catwalks to interviews with models, though the magazine doesn’t face as much criticism as American Vogue, the UK edition does have its moments. Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman joined the debate, making a statement to the Daily Mail that she doesnt think fashion is institutionally racist in the slightest
Vogue (British magazine)
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Kate Moss on the March 2008 cover of Vogue UK
29.
Hot pants
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They are called shorts because they are a shortened version of trousers, which cover the entire leg. Shorts are typically worn in warm weather or in an environment where comfort, there are a variety of shorts, ranging from knee-length short trousers that can in some situations be worn as formal clothes to beachwear and athletic shorts. Some types of shorts are worn by women, such as culottes. The American term short pants is probably the nearest equivalent in the US, there they might now be called dress shorts, a somewhat similar garment worn by men in Australia is called stubbies. Shorts is used unqualified in British English to refer to sports shorts, athletic shorts, or casual shorts, the term boxer shorts was an American coinage for a particular kind of mens underwear, and is now common in Britain. However, boxer shorts are often referred to as boxers in the USA, the word pants refers to outerwear in American usage but when used unqualified in British English generally means underwear. In much of Europe and the Americas during the 19th and early 20th centuries shorts were worn as outerwear only by boys until they reached a certain height or maturity. When boys got older, typically around puberty, they would receive their first pair of long trousers and this produced the perception that shorts were only for young boys. Because of this, men would not wear shorts to avoid looking immature, women tended not to wear shorts in most cultures, due to social mores, they were expected to wear dresses, or skirts and blouses. In the 1890s, knee pants became the standard wear for American boys, many urban school portraits from the 1890s show all but the oldest boys wearing knee pants. North American boys normally wore knee pants with short stockings and this began to change after the 1900s when North American boys began wearing knickerbockers, while short pants became more popular in Europe. In the 1930s, shorts started to be worn for comfort by both men and women. However, it was taboo to wear shorts outside certain activities. By the late 20th century however it became common for men to wear shorts as casual wear in summer, however, in many countries there are few formal settings where wearing shorts would be acceptable, as they are considered casual wear. Notable exceptions where men may wear short trousers to the office or at a formal gathering are South Africa, Bermuda, Australia and New Zealand. Since the 1990s, casual office dress has grown to include formal shorts in some UK and U. S. businesses, in some countries adult women can be seen wearing loose-fitting shorts that end at or just below the knee, as these are seen as sufficiently modest. Capris Three quarter pants Media related to Shorts at Wikimedia Commons
Hot pants
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U.S. women volleyball players in sports-shorts
Hot pants
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Leaders welcome a boy into Scouting, March 2010, Mexico City, Mexico. The men and the boy are wearing shorts.
Hot pants
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Board shorts.
Hot pants
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Boxer shorts are a type of underwear for men.
30.
Patrick Anson, 5th Earl of Lichfield
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Thomas Patrick John Anson, 5th Earl of Lichfield was an English photographer from the Anson family. He inherited the Earldom of Lichfield in 1960 from his paternal grandfather, in his professional practice he was known as Patrick Lichfield. Thomas Patrick John Anson was born 25 April 1939 and he was the only son of Lieutenant-Colonel Thomas William Arnold Anson, Viscount Anson, the eldest son and heir apparent of Thomas Edward Anson, 4th Earl of Lichfield. His mother was born Anne Bowes-Lyon, a niece of Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother and his parents divorced in 1948, and his mother subsequently became Princess Anne of Denmark after her remarriage to Prince George Valdemar of Denmark in 1950. He had one sister, Elizabeth Georgiana, who married Sir Geoffrey Adam Shakerley and his father died in 1958, leaving Thomas to succeed as 5th Earl of Lichfield when his grandfather died in 1960. Lichfield joined the Grenadier Guards in 1959, on leaving the Army in 1962, he began to work as a photographers assistant, and built up his own reputation, partly as a result of having access to the Royal Family. He was selected to take the photographs of the wedding of the Prince and Princess of Wales in 1981. From 1999 onwards he was a pioneer of photography as a professional standard. He was chosen by the Queen and the Duke of Edinburgh to take pictures of her Golden Jubilee in 2002. On 8 March 1975 Lichfield married Lady Leonora Grosvenor, elder daughter of the 5th Duke of Westminster and Viola, the Countess of Lichfield has not remarried and has retained her title. They have two sons, Thomas Ossian Patrick Wolfe Anson, Viscount Anson Hon. Finnian Anson Lady Eloise Anne Elizabeth Anson, Lichfields most recent partner was the biographer Lady Annunziata Asquith, daughter of Julian Asquith, 2nd Earl of Oxford and Asquith. On 11 November 2005, Lichfield suffered a stroke, and died the following day at the John Radcliffe Hospital in Oxford. Lichfields funeral was held on 21 November at St. Michael and All Angels Church, Colwich, Staffordshire, since 2011 the private apartments at Shugborough have housed an exhibition of Lichfields work. His cameras and lighting gear have been set up in a recreation of his studio, and there is a gallery of some of his most famous photographic subjects
Patrick Anson, 5th Earl of Lichfield
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Colwich, memorial stone outside the church, placed by Lady Annunziata Asquith
Patrick Anson, 5th Earl of Lichfield
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Arms of the Anson family,
Earls of Lichfield
Patrick Anson, 5th Earl of Lichfield
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St. Michael and All Angels,
Colwich
