1.
Textile
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A textile or cloth is a flexible material consisting of a network of natural or artificial fibres. Yarn is produced by spinning raw fibres of wool, flax, cotton, hemp, Textiles are formed by weaving, knitting, crocheting, knotting, or felting. The words fabric and cloth are used in textile assembly trades as synonyms for textile, however, there are subtle differences in these terms in specialized usage. Textile refers to any material made of interlacing fibres, a fabric is a material made through weaving, knitting, spreading, crocheting, or bonding that may be used in production of further goods. Cloth may be used synonymously with fabric but is often a piece of fabric used for a specific purpose. The word textile is from Latin, from the adjective textilis, meaning woven, from textus, the word cloth derives from the Old English clað, meaning a cloth, woven or felted material to wrap around one, from Proto-Germanic kalithaz. The discovery of dyed flax fibres in a cave in the Republic of Georgia dated to 34,000 BCE suggests textile-like materials were made even in prehistoric times. The production of textiles is a craft whose speed and scale of production has been altered almost beyond recognition by industrialization, however, for the main types of textiles, plain weave, twill, or satin weave, there is little difference between the ancient and modern methods. Textiles have an assortment of uses, the most common of which are for clothing and for such as bags. In the household they are used in carpeting, upholstered furnishings, window shades, towels, coverings for tables, beds, and other flat surfaces, in the workplace they are used in industrial and scientific processes such as filtering. Textiles are used in traditional crafts such as sewing, quilting. Textiles for industrial purposes, and chosen for other than their appearance, are commonly referred to as technical textiles. Technical textiles include textile structures for applications, medical textiles, geotextiles, agrotextiles. In all these applications stringent performance requirements must be met, woven of threads coated with zinc oxide nanowires, laboratory fabric has been shown capable of self-powering nanosystems using vibrations created by everyday actions like wind or body movements. Fashion designers commonly rely on textile designs to set their fashion collections apart from others, armani, the late Gianni Versace, and Emilio Pucci can be easily recognized by their signature print driven designs. Textiles can be made from many materials and these materials come from four main sources, animal, plant, mineral, and synthetic. In the past, all textiles were made from natural fibres, including plant, animal, in the 20th century, these were supplemented by artificial fibres made from petroleum. Textiles are made in various strengths and degrees of durability, from the finest gossamer to the sturdiest canvas, microfibre refers to fibres made of strands thinner than one denier
2.
Carding
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Carding is a mechanical process that disentangles, cleans and intermixes fibres to produce a continuous web or sliver suitable for subsequent processing. This is achieved by passing the fibers between differentially moving surfaces covered with card clothing and it breaks up locks and unorganised clumps of fibre and then aligns the individual fibers to be parallel with each other. In preparing wool fibre for spinning, carding is the step that comes after teasing, the word is derived from the Latin carduus meaning thistle or teasel, as dried vegetable teasels were first used to comb the raw wool. These ordered fibres can then be passed on to other processes that are specific to the end use of the fibre, Cotton, batting, felt, woollen or worsted yarn. Carding can also be used to create blends of different fibres or different colours, when blending, the carding process combines the different fibres into a homogeneous mix. Commercial cards also have rollers and systems designed to remove some vegetable matter contaminants from the wool, common to all carders is card clothing. Card clothing is made from a flexible backing in which closely spaced wire pins are embedded. The shape, length, diameter, and spacing of these pins are dictated by the card designer. Carding machines are known as cards, fibre may be carded by hand for hand spinning. Science historian Joseph Needham ascribes the invention of bow-instruments used in technology to India. The earliest evidence for using bow-instruments for carding comes from India and these carding devices, called kaman and dhunaki, would loosen the texture of the fibre by the means of a vibrating string. At the turn of the century, wool in England was being carded using pairs of hand cards. In 1748 Lewis Paul of Birmingham, England invented two hand driven carding machines, the first used a coat of wires on a flat table moved by foot pedals. On the second, a coat of wire slips was placed around a card which was wrapped around a cylinder. Daniel Bourn obtained a patent in the same year, and probably used it in his spinning mill at Leominster. The invention was developed and improved by Richard Arkwright and Samuel Crompton. Arkwrights second patent for his machine was subsequently declared invalid because it lacked originality. From the 1780s, the machines were set up in mills in the north of England
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Wool
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Wool is the textile fiber obtained from sheep and other animals, including cashmere and mohair from goats, qiviut from muskoxen, angora from rabbits, and other types of wool from camelids. Wool has several qualities that distinguish it from hair or fur, it is crimped, Wool is produced by follicles which are small cells located in the skin. These follicles are located in the layer of the skin called the epidermis. Follicles can be classed as primary or secondary follicles. Primary follicles produce three types of fiber, Kemp, medullated fibers and true wool fibers, secondary follicles only produce true wool fibers. Medullated fibers share nearly identical characteristics to hair and are long but lack crimp, Kemp fibers are very coarse and shed out. Wools scaling and crimp make it easier to spin the fleece by helping the individual fibers attach to each other, because of the crimp, wool fabrics have greater bulk than other textiles, and they hold air, which causes the fabric to retain heat. Wool has a specific heat coefficient, so it impedes heat transfer in general. This effect has benefited desert peoples, as Bedouins and Tuaregs use wool clothes for insulation, felting of wool occurs upon hammering or other mechanical agitation as the microscopic barbs on the surface of wool fibers hook together. The amount of crimp corresponds to the fineness of the wool fibers, a fine wool like Merino may have up to 100 crimps per inch, while coarser wool like karakul may have as few as one or two. In contrast, hair has little if any scale and no crimp, on sheep, the hair part of the fleece is called kemp. Wool fibers readily absorb moisture, but are not hollow, Wool can absorb almost one-third of its own weight in water. Wool absorbs sound like many other fabrics and it is generally a creamy white color, although some breeds of sheep produce natural colors, such as black, brown, silver, and random mixes. Wool ignites at a higher temperature than cotton and some synthetic fibers, Wool carpets are specified for high safety environments, such as trains and aircraft. Wool is usually specified for garments for firefighters, soldiers, Wool is considered by the medical profession to be allergenic. Sheep shearing is the process by which the fleece of a sheep is cut off. After shearing, the wool is separated into four categories, fleece, broken, bellies. In Australia before being auctioned, all Merino fleece wool is objectively measured for micron, yield, staple length, staple strength, the sheep is given a dip in antiseptic solution after shearing, so as to cure the wounds caused during shearing
4.
Worsted
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Worsted is a high-quality type of wool yarn, the fabric made from this yarn, and a yarn weight category. The name derives from Worstead, a village in the English county of Norfolk, in the same period, many weavers from Flanders moved to Norfolk. Worsted yarns/fabrics are distinct from woollens, the former is considered stronger, finer, smoother, Worsted was made from the long-staple pasture wool from sheep breeds such as Teeswaters, Old Leicester Longwool and Romney Marsh. Pasture wool was not carded, instead it was washed, gilled and combed, oiled, when woven, worsteds were scoured but not fulled. Worsted wool fabric is used in the making of tailored garments such as suits, as opposed to woollen wool. The essential feature of worsted yarn is straight, parallel fibres, originally, long, fine staple wool was spun to create worsted yarn, today, other long fibres are also used. Many spinners differentiate between worsted preparation and worsted spinning, Worsted preparation refers to the way the fibre is prepared before spinning, using ginning machines which force the fibre staples to lie parallel to each other. Once these fibres have been made into a top, they are then combed to remove the short fibres, the long fibres are combined in subsequent gilling machines to again make the fibres parallel. This produces overlapping untwisted strands called slivers, Worsted spinning refers to using a worsted technique, which produces a smooth yarn in which the fibres lie parallel. Roving and wool top are used to spin worsted yarn. Many hand spinners buy their fibre in roving or top form, top and roving are ropelike in appearance, in that they can be thick and long. While some mills put a slight twist in the rovings they make, the fibres in top and rovings all lie parallel to one another along the length, which makes top ideal for spinning worsted yarns. Worsted-spun yarns, used to create worsted fabric, are spun from fibres that have been combed, to ensure that the fibres all run the same direction, butt-end to tip, a short draw is used in spinning worsted fibres. In short draw spinning, spun from combed roving, sliver or wool top, the fibres are held fanned out in one hand while the other hand pulls a small number from the mass. The twist is kept between the hand and the wheel — there is never any twist between the two hands. Worsted cloth, archaically known as stuff, is lightweight and has a coarse texture. The weave is usually twill or plain, twilled fabrics such as whipcord, gabardine and serge are often made from worsted yarn. Worsted fabric made from wool has a recovery, meaning that it is resilient and quickly returns to its natural shape
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Cotton
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Cotton is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll, or protective case, around the seeds of the cotton plants of the genus Gossypium in the family of Malvaceae. The fiber is almost pure cellulose, under natural conditions, the cotton bolls will tend to increase the dispersal of the seeds. The plant is a native to tropical and subtropical regions around the world, including the Americas, Africa. The greatest diversity of wild species is found in Mexico, followed by Australia. Cotton was independently domesticated in the Old and New Worlds, the fiber is most often spun into yarn or thread and used to make a soft, breathable textile. Current estimates for world production are about 25 million tonnes or 110 million bales annually, China is the worlds largest producer of cotton, but most of this is used domestically. The United States has been the largest exporter for many years, in the United States, cotton is usually measured in bales, which measure approximately 0.48 cubic meters and weigh 226.8 kilograms. Cotton cultivation in the region is dated to the Indus Valley Civilization, the Indus cotton industry was well-developed and some methods used in cotton spinning and fabrication continued to be used until the industrialization of India. Between 2000 and 1000 BC cotton became widespread across much of India, for example, it has been found at the site of Hallus in Karnataka dating from around 1000 BC. Cotton fabrics discovered in a cave near Tehuacán, Mexico have been dated to around 5800 BC, the domestication of Gossypium hirsutum in Mexico is dated between 3400 and 2300 BC. Cotton was grown upriver, made into nets, and traded with fishing villages along the coast for supplies of fish. The Spanish who came to Mexico and Peru in the early 16th century found the people growing cotton and this may be a reference to tree cotton, Gossypium arboreum, which is a native of the Indian subcontinent. According to the Columbia Encyclopedia, Cotton has been spun, woven and it clothed the people of ancient India, Egypt, and China. Hundreds of years before the Christian era, cotton textiles were woven in India with matchless skill, in Iran, the history of cotton dates back to the Achaemenid era, however, there are few sources about the planting of cotton in pre-Islamic Iran. The planting of cotton was common in Merv, Ray and Pars of Iran, in Persian poets poems, especially Ferdowsis Shahname, there are references to cotton. Marco Polo refers to the products of Persia, including cotton. John Chardin, a French traveler of the 17th century who visited the Safavid Persia, during the Han dynasty, cotton was grown by Chinese peoples in the southern Chinese province of Yunnan. Mohamed Ali Pasha accepted the proposition and granted himself the monopoly on the sale and export of cotton in Egypt, and later dictated cotton should be grown in preference to other crops
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Synthetic fiber
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Synthetic fibers is the result of extensive research by scientists to improve on naturally occurring animal and plant fibres. In general, synthetic fibers are created by extruding fiber forming materials through spinnerets into air and water, before synthetic fibres were developed, artificially manufactured fibres were made from polymers obtained from petrochemicals. These fibres are called synthetic or artificial fibres, some fibres are manufactured from plant-derived cellulose. Joseph Swan invented the first synthetic fiber in the early 1880s and his fiber was drawn from a cellulose liquid, formed by chemically modifying the fiber contained in tree bark. In 1885, he unveiled fabrics he had manufactured from his material at the International Inventions Exhibition in London. The next step was taken by Hilaire de Chardonnet, a French engineer and industrialist, who invented the first artificial silk, in the late 1870s, Chardonnet was working with Louis Pasteur on a remedy to the epidemic that was destroying French silkworms. Failure to clean up a spill in the darkroom resulted in Chardonnets discovery of nitrocellulose as a replacement for real silk. Realizing the value of such a discovery, Chardonnet began to develop his new product, unfortunately, Chardonnets material was extremely flammable, and was subsequently replaced with other, more stable materials. The first successful process was developed in 1894 by English chemist Charles Frederick Cross and they named the fiber viscose, because the reaction product of carbon disulfide and cellulose in basic conditions gave a highly viscous solution of xanthate. The first commercial viscose rayon was produced by the UK company Courtaulds Fibers in 1905, the name rayon was adopted in 1924, with viscose being used for the viscous organic liquid used to make both rayon and cellophane. A similar product known as cellulose acetate was discovered in 1865, rayon and acetate are both artificial fibers, but not truly synthetic, being made from wood. Nylon, the first synthetic fiber, was developed by Wallace Carothers and it soon made its debut in the United States as a replacement for silk, just in time for the introduction of rationing during World War II. Its novel use as a material for womens stockings overshadowed more practical uses, such as a replacement for the silk in parachutes, the first polyester fiber was introduced by John Rex Whinfield and James Tennant Dickson, British chemists working at the Calico Printers Association, in 1941. They produced and patented the first polyester fibre which they named Terylene, also known as Dacron, equal to or surpassing nylon in toughness, ICI and DuPont went on to produce their own versions of the fibre. The world production of fibers was 55.2 million tonnes in 2014. Synthetic fibers are made from synthesized polymers or small molecules, the compounds that are used to make these fibers come from raw materials such as petroleum based chemicals or petrochemicals. These materials are polymerized into a long, linear chemical that bond two adjacent carbon atoms, differing chemical compounds will be used to produce different types of fibers. Synthetic fibers account for half of all fiber usage, with applications in every field of fiber
7.
Vegetable flannel
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Vegetable flannel is a type of flannel using fibres from the Scots pine, or pinus sylvestris, rather than traditional woollen fibres. It is described as having a hemp like appearance, but with a tighter, softer texture, in addition to this, the term can also describe coarse linen used for underclothing. The raw fibre, called waldwolle, and the oil were separated, and then the waldwolle was spun into yarn or thread. By 1900, vegetable flannel was mainly woven at Breslau, which at the time was located in Germany, vegetable flannel was promoted as an hypoallergenic option for those who could not wear wool, and was thought to be particularly good for rheumatism and neuralgia. In the nineteenth century, this was attributed to the tannins and resins present in the fibre, and formic acid, another contemporary article claimed that vegetable flannel regulated the release of phosphorus and other elements from the invalids body. In 1900, vegetable flannel was widely used for blankets in German hospitals, prisons and barracks as it was not to harbour pests
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Scots pine
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In the north of its range, it occurs from sea level to 1,000 m, while in the south of its range it is a high altitude mountain tree, growing at 1, 200–2,600 m altitude. It is readily identified by its combination of short, blue-green leaves. The species is found on poorer, sandy soils, rocky outcrops. On fertile sites, Scots pine is out-competed by other, usually spruce or broad-leaved tree species and it is the national tree of Scotland. The bark is thick, scaly dark grey-brown on the lower trunk, the habit of the mature tree is distinctive due to its long, bare and straight trunk topped by a rounded or flat-topped mass of foliage. The lifespan is normally 150–300 years, with the oldest recorded specimens in Lapland, the shoots are light brown, with a spirally arranged scale-like pattern. On vigorous young trees the leaves can be twice as long, leaf persistence varies from two to four years in warmer climates, and up to nine years in subarctic regions. Seedlings up to one year old bear juvenile leaves, these are single, 2–3 cm long, flattened, the cone scales have a flat to pyramidal apophysis, with a small prickle on the umbo. The seeds are blackish, 3–5 mm in length with a pale brown 12–20 mm wing and are released when the open in spring 22–24 months after pollination. The pollen cones are yellow, occasionally pink, 8–12 mm long, over 100 Pinus sylvestris varieties have been described in the botanical literature, but only three or four are now accepted. They differ only minimally in morphology, but with more pronounced differences in genetic analysis, populations in westernmost Scotland are genetically distinct from those in the rest of Scotland and northern Europe, but not sufficiently to have been distinguished as a separate botanical variety. Trees in the far north of the range were formerly treated as var. lapponica. The bulk of the range, from Scotland and Spain to central Siberia, the Balkans, northern Turkey, Crimea, and the Caucasus. Foliage more consistently glaucous all year, not becoming duller in winter, mongolia and adjoining parts of southern Siberia and northwestern China. Foliage duller green, shoots grey-green, leaves occasionally up to 12 cm long, the Sierra Nevada in southern Spain and possibly other Spanish populations Kalenicz. Cones often with scales, but doubtfully distinguishable on morphology. From border regions between Russia and Ukraine, in central and southern Europe, it occurs with numerous additional species, including European black pine, mountain pine, Macedonian pine, and Swiss pine. In the eastern part of its range, it occurs with Siberian pine, the tree spread across the British Isles after the Last Glacial Maximum
9.
Nap (textile)
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Primarily, nap is the raised surface on certain kinds of cloth, such as velvet. Nap can refer additionally to other surfaces that look like the surface of a napped cloth, starting around the 14th century, the word referred originally to the roughness of woven cloth before it was sheared. When cloth, especially woollen cloth, is woven, the surface of the cloth is not smooth, generally the cloth is then sheared to create an even surface, and the nap is thus removed. A person who trimmed the surface of cloth with shears to remove any excess nap was known as a shearman, since the 15th century, the term nap generally refers to a special pile given to the cloth. The term pile refers to raised fibres that are there on purpose, in this case, the nap is woven into the cloth, often by weaving loops into the fabric, which can then be cut or left intact. Carpets, rugs, velvet, velour, and velveteen, are made by interlacing a secondary yarn through woven cloth, creating a nap or pile. In the finishing process of manufacturing textiles, after the cloth is woven, it goes through such as washing, fulling, raising the nap. After the nap is trimmed, the fabric is considered finished, the raising process, which draws out the ends of the fibres, is done on both woollen and cotton fabric. Flannelette is a fabric that goes through this process. There are ways to raise the nap, most of which involve wire brushes such as raising cards, originally, dried teasel pods were used and were still preferred for use on woollen cloth for a long time. Woollen fabrics, which must be damp when raising the nap, are dried and stretched before the nap is trimmed or sheared. Cotton cloth goes straight to the process, where the nap gets trimmed to ensure that all the raised fibres are the same length
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Tartan
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Tartan is a pattern consisting of criss-crossed horizontal and vertical bands in multiple colours. Tartans originated in woven wool, but now they are made in other materials. Tartan is particularly associated with Scotland, Scottish kilts almost always have tartan patterns. Tartan is often called plaid in North America, but in Scotland, Tartan is made with alternating bands of coloured threads woven as both warp and weft at right angles to each other. The weft is woven in a simple twill, two over—two under the warp, advancing one thread at each pass and this forms visible diagonal lines where different colours cross, which give the appearance of new colours blended from the original ones. The resulting blocks of colour repeat vertically and horizontally in a pattern of squares and lines known as a sett. The Dress Act of 1746 attempted to bring the clans under government control by banning the tartan. When the law was repealed in 1782, it was no longer ordinary Highland dress, until the middle of the nineteenth century, the highland tartans were only associated with either regions or districts, rather than any specific Scottish clan. Today tartan is no longer limited to textiles, but is used on non-woven mediums, such as paper, plastics, packaging, the English word tartan is most likely derived from the French tartarin meaning Tartar cloth. It has also suggested that tartan may be derived from modern Scottish Gaelic tarsainn. Today tartan usually refers to coloured patterns, though originally a tartan did not have to be made up of any pattern at all, as late as the 1830s tartan was sometimes described as plain coloured. Patterned cloth from the Gaelic-speaking Scottish Highlands was called breacan, meaning many colours, over time the meanings of tartan and breacan were combined to describe certain type of pattern on a certain type of cloth. The pattern of a tartan is called a sett, the sett is made up of a series of woven threads which cross at right angles. Today tartan is used to describe the pattern, not limited to textiles. In North America the term plaid is commonly used to describe tartan, the word plaid, derived from the Scottish Gaelic plaide, meaning blanket, was first used of any rectangular garment, sometimes made up of tartan, particularly that which preceded the modern kilt. In time, plaid was used to describe blankets themselves, each thread in the warp crosses each thread in the weft at right angles. Thus, a set of two base colours produces three different colours including one mixture and this means that the more stripes and colours used, the more blurred and subdued the tartans pattern becomes. The sequence of threads, known as the sett, starts at an edge, in diagram A, the sett reverses at the first pivot, then repeats, then reverses at the next pivot, and will carry on in this manner horizontally
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Blanket
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A blanket is a type of bedding. It is, generally speaking, a piece of woven cloth, intended to keep the user warm. A blanket traps the radiant heat from the body, and instead of dissipating into the air. It also protects against heat being lost by convection, Blankets are distinguished from bed sheets because of their thickness and purpose. Blankets are thicker, even the thinnest blanket is thicker than the heaviest sheet, Blankets are generally used for warmth and comfort, while sheets are for hygiene, comfort and aesthetics. Nowadays, synthetic fibers are used for both. Earlier usage of the term is possible through its derivation from the French word for white, many types of blanket material, such as wool, are used because they are thicker and have more substantial fabric to them, but cotton can also be used for light blankets. Wool blankets are warmer and also slow to burn compared to cotton. The most common types of blankets are woven acrylic, knitted polyester, mink, cotton, fleece, Blankets also come with exotic crafting and exotic material such as crocheted afghan or a silk covering. The term blanket is often interchanged with comforter, quilt, and duvet, Blankets have been used by the military for many centuries. Most militaries have blankets as compulsory for sleeping quarters in preference to duvets, militaries are some of the biggest single consumers of woolen blankets. Military blankets tend to be grey with a high level of microns. Suppliers include J. E. Ashworth & Sons and Faribault Woolen Mills who made half of all blankets in America at one time. Throw blankets are smaller blankets, often in decorative colors and patterns, Blankets are sometimes used as comfort objects by small children. Blankets may be spread on the ground for a picnic or where people want to sit in a grassy or muddy area without soiling their clothing, temporary blankets have been designed for this purpose. Media related to Blankets at Wikimedia Commons The dictionary definition of blanket at Wiktionary
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Bed sheet
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A bed sheet is a rectangular piece of cloth used as bedding, being placed immediately below or above bed occupants. Bed sheets can generally be divided into two categories, top and bottom sheets, a bottom sheet is laid above the mattress and bed occupants lie on it. However, this can make it difficult to fold when not in use. Bottom sheets are standard in developed countries and they are more easily washable than a mattress, and when used properly can protect the longevity of the mattress and provide better sanitation for bed occupants. A top sheet is a flat sheet immediately under which bed occupants lie, blankets, quilts, duvets/comforters and other bed covers are laid over the top sheet, but because of the top sheet they do not directly touch the bed occupant. Top sheets are standard in the U. S. but much of Europe prefers to use duvet covers, a duvet cover consists of two rectangles sewn together on all but one side to create a sleeve for the duvet, which can be taken off and washed. When no other blankets are lain atop the covered duvet, it can provide several advantages over a top sheet. First, respecting sanitation, with a top sheet the bed occupant could accidentally in the night remove the barrier between himself and the duvet, with a duvet cover this is impossible. Second, for households with children, a bed with a duvet is easier to make. Tucking in a top sheet before arranging the duvet is an extra step, third, switching a duvet cover is a cheaper way to change color schemes than buying a new comforter. However, a top sheet has its own advantages, first, a tucked-in top sheet can provide a comfortable feeling of snugness that duvets cannot, as duvets are not usually large enough to tuck under the mattress. Second, top sheets allow a range of blanket choices besides duvets. In some Asian countries, such as China, top sheets are not used, flat sheets are often used in place of fitted sheets or together with them as bottom sheets. Most families prefer to use duvet covers to cover the quilts, the term bed sheet was first used in the 15th century. Bed sheets were traditionally white and made of linen, cotton or silk, bed sheets come in two main varieties, flat and fitted. A flat sheet is simply a sheet of cloth, while a fitted sheet has its four corners. The fitted sheet may also be secured using a drawstring instead of elastic, the purpose of a fitted bottom sheet is to keep it from slipping off the mattress while the bed is in use. A particular way of folding and tucking while making the bed, usually a flat bed sheet is overlocked around the edges to form four seams
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Nightwear
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Nightwear – also called sleepwear, nightclothes, or nightdress – is clothing designed to be worn while sleeping. The style of nightwear worn may vary with the seasons, with warmer styles being worn in colder conditions, some styles or materials are selected to be visually appealing or erotic in addition to their functional purposes. Babydoll - a short, sometimes sleeveless, loose-fitting nightgown or negligee for women, blanket sleeper - a warm sleeping garment for infants and young children. Chemise - when used in reference to sleepwear, it is a delicate, usually provocative, loose-fitting, sleeveless, shirt-like lingerie, similar to babydoll, but tighter at the hips. Negligee - loose, sensuous nightwear for women made of sheer or semi-translucent fabrics and trimmed with lace or other fine material. Nightgown - loose hanging nightwear for women, typically made from cotton, silk, satin, nightshirt - loose-fitting garment, longer than a regular shirt. Nightcap - a warm cloth cap worn by women or men with pajamas or a nightgown. Pajamas - loose fitting two-piece garments for women, men and children and they may be made from cotton, silk, satin or synthetic materials. Peignoir - a long outer garment for women usually sheer and made of chiffon and they are usually sold with a matching nightgown, negligee or panties. Other types of garment are worn for sleeping, but not exclusively so, including t-shirts, tank tops, sweatpants. Also, sleeping without clothing is not uncommon, according to a 2004 United States survey, 13% of men wear pajamas or nightgowns for sleeping, whereas 31% wear underwear and another 31% sleep nude. On 22 December 2011, the U. S, all children’s sleepwear and loungewear sold in the US are required to comply with the Flammable Fabrics Act using the standards for Flammability of Children’s Sleepwear 16 C. F. R
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Wales
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Wales is a country that is part of the United Kingdom and the island of Great Britain. It is bordered by England to the east, the Irish Sea to the north and west, and it had a population in 2011 of 3,063,456 and has a total area of 20,779 km2. Wales has over 1,680 miles of coastline and is mountainous, with its higher peaks in the north and central areas, including Snowdon. The country lies within the temperate zone and has a changeable. Welsh national identity emerged among the Celtic Britons after the Roman withdrawal from Britain in the 5th century, Llywelyn ap Gruffudds death in 1282 marked the completion of Edward I of Englands conquest of Wales, though Owain Glyndŵr briefly restored independence to Wales in the early 15th century. The whole of Wales was annexed by England and incorporated within the English legal system under the Laws in Wales Acts 1535–1542, distinctive Welsh politics developed in the 19th century. Welsh Liberalism, exemplified in the early 20th century by Lloyd George, was displaced by the growth of socialism, Welsh national feeling grew over the century, Plaid Cymru was formed in 1925 and the Welsh Language Society in 1962. Established under the Government of Wales Act 1998, the National Assembly for Wales holds responsibility for a range of devolved policy matters, two-thirds of the population live in south Wales, mainly in and around Cardiff, Swansea and Newport, and in the nearby valleys. Now that the countrys traditional extractive and heavy industries have gone or are in decline, Wales economy depends on the sector, light and service industries. Wales 2010 gross value added was £45.5 billion, over 560,000 Welsh language speakers live in Wales, and the language is spoken by a majority of the population in parts of the north and west. From the late 19th century onwards, Wales acquired its popular image as the land of song, Rugby union is seen as a symbol of Welsh identity and an expression of national consciousness. The Old English-speaking Anglo-Saxons came to use the term Wælisc when referring to the Celtic Britons in particular, the modern names for some Continental European lands and peoples have a similar etymology. The modern Welsh name for themselves is Cymry, and Cymru is the Welsh name for Wales and these words are descended from the Brythonic word combrogi, meaning fellow-countrymen. The use of the word Cymry as a self-designation derives from the location in the post-Roman Era of the Welsh people in modern Wales as well as in northern England and southern Scotland. It emphasised that the Welsh in modern Wales and in the Hen Ogledd were one people, in particular, the term was not applied to the Cornish or the Breton peoples, who are of similar heritage, culture, and language to the Welsh. The word came into use as a self-description probably before the 7th century and it is attested in a praise poem to Cadwallon ap Cadfan c. 633. Thereafter Cymry prevailed as a reference to the Welsh, until c.1560 the word was spelt Kymry or Cymry, regardless of whether it referred to the people or their homeland. The Latinised forms of names, Cambrian, Cambric and Cambria, survive as lesser-used alternative names for Wales, Welsh
15.
Frieze (textile)
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In the history of textiles, frieze is a Middle English term for a coarse woollen, plain weave cloth with a nap on one side. The nap was raised by scrubbing it to raise curls of fibre, panni frisi, Frisian cloths, appear in medieval inventories and other documents. Frieze was woven in the English Midlands and Wales, and in Ireland from the fourteenth century, in Old Norse, such cloth was called vaðmál, and lengths of wadmal were a medium of exchange, especially for the poor who had neither cattle nor silver. Wadmal could be used to pay property tax, in the seventeenth century Frieze was applied to linen cloth, apparently as from Frisia, an unconnected usage. Coarse frieze was manufactured in England for export to Ireland in the nineteenth century. Frieze cloth, a mixed and for the most part an unraised fabric, has been manufactured for a series of years and this cloth is heavy and sound, rather than fine in quality. Almost entirely for the Irish trade Frieze was to be seen Jubb noted impassively, on the back of an Irish pig-jobber or that of an Irish reaper. The Ulster, a loose overcoat as worn in Ulster, was made of frieze. Irish frieze found its way to North America, a stock of hooded coats that was brought to Detroit in 1701 included twenty-three made of frise dIrlande. The term frieze can also be used for the curly nap frieze fabrics have, as well as the action of raising the nap, today, frieze is also a term applied to a textile technique used in modern machine-loomed carpeting, as well as the textile produced. Carpets made with this technique are known for their resilience, due to a high twist rate, outperforming standard cut or loop pile carpets
16.
Newtown, Powys
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Newtown is the largest town in the county of Powys, Wales. It had a population of 12,783 in 2001, falling to 11,357 at the 2011 census, the Robert Owen Museum is across the road, occupying the ground floor of the council offices. Newtown is also the home of Theatr Hafren and of Oriel Davies, a public gallery. Newtown was founded at the end of the 13th century when Edward I of England commissioned Roger de Montgomerie to construct a centre for the hamlet of Llanfair-yng-Nghedewain. It was situated near the ford on the River Severn, below the Long Bridge and this gave Newtown its original Welsh name. He seized Llywelyns lands and granted them to the Mortimers and they transferred the administration of the cantref of Cedewain and the commote of Ceri from Dolforwyn Castle to the new settlement at Newtown. The town grew in the 18th and 19th centuries around the textile and flannel industry, in 1838, the town saw Wales first Chartist demonstration. The Cambrian Mills, which opened in 1856, were the first steam-driven mills in Newtown, the mill complex was beside the canal terminus on the east bank of the Severn. They expanded to become the largest Welsh woollen mills, however, by the end of the 19th century the mills in Newtown were no longer competitive with those in the north of England. There was a fire in 1910, and another in 1912. After the Cambrian Mills closed, Newtown was no longer an important woollen industrial centre, the town was designated as a new town in 1967. It saw a population growth as companies and people settled. Newtown hosted the National Eisteddfod in 1965, Newtown is about 8 miles from the Wales-England border, in the narrow valley of the river Severn which restricts development north and south of the town. Newtown is surrounded by small villages often referenced as the Newtown area, the Newtown post town area, including surrounding villages, has a population approaching 16,000. These villages include Aberhafesp, Adfa, Bettws Cedewain, Bwlch-y-ffridd, Cefn-gwyn, Dolfor, Glanmule, Kerry, Llanllwchaiarn, Llanwyddelan, Mochdre, New Mills, Pentre, Rhydlydan, Sarn and Tregynon. Built by Pryce Pryce-Jones, the Pryce Jones Royal Welsh Warehouse remains the tallest building in Newtown, the two towering structures housed the worlds first mail order service depot. Bear Lanes, the main shopping centre, has a Tudor-style entrance. The building was once a hotel, The Bear, which contributes to the centres appearance today, a statue of Robert Owen was erected in 1956 in a small park off Shortbridge Street and Gas Street
17.
Hay-on-Wye
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Often described as the town of books, it is the National Book Town of Wales. The annual Hay Festival is a literary festival. The settlements name is first referred to between 1135 and 1147 as Haya, in 1299 the name of La Haye is used, by the 16th century it was simply called Hay, and the use of the river as a suffix is a later addition. In 1215, a Welsh name, Gelli was recorded, and Gelli gandrell in 1614, the two names may have been used concurrently in 1625. The English language name, Hay, is derived from Old English hæg, possibly meaning a fenced area, the Welsh word celli has a range of meanings including wooded areas of various extents. The town lies on the south-east bank of the River Wye and is within the north-easternmost tip of the Brecon Beacons National Park, the town is just on the Welsh side of the border with Herefordshire, England, here defined by the Dulas Brook. Where the brook joins the River Wye just north of the town, the Wye was the boundary between the former counties and districts of Radnorshire and Brecknockshire. The adjacent village of Cusop lies on the English side of the Dulas Brook, the nearest city is Hereford, county town of Herefordshire, some 22 miles to the east. The Royal Mail depot in Hay is a sub-office of Hereford, Hay-on-Wye is a Welsh community with a Town Council. From this point, it follows the National Park boundary to the River Wye, the Town Council consists of a Mayor, Deputy Mayor and eight councillors. Hay also participates in the election of a councillor to Powys County Council as part of a county division. The B4350 runs through the town and the B4351 links it with the main A438 from Brecon to Hereford, the town was formerly served at Hay-on-Wye railway station by the train services known as the Canney Creeper, which closed in 1963 under the Beeching Axe. First held in 2010, HowTheLightGetsIn is a philosophy and music festival, billed as The Worlds Largest Philosophy and Music Festival, it attracts over 35,000 visitors to its programme of 450 events of music, comedy and philosophy. In 2015 the festival was held from the 21st to the 31st of May, acts included Mike Skinner, Simon Blackburn, Jamie Woon, Lawrence Krauss, Natalie Bennett and the IAI School, aimed at 16- to 18-year-olds, presented by New College of the Humanities. Hay Golf Club was founded in 1903, the club continued on its nine-hole course until the onset of WW2. The towns football club is called Hay St. Marys, Hay was named one of the best places to live in Wales in 2017. Hay-on-Wye, like Builth Wells, has two Norman castles within a distance of each other. It seems likely that Hay was first fortified by William Fitz Osbern during his penetration of south-east Wales in the summer of 1070, lying close to St Marys Church on the western edge of Hay-on-Wye is a small but well-preserved motte
18.
Llanidloes
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Llanidloes is a town on the A470 and B4518 roads in Powys, within the historic county boundaries of Montgomeryshire, Wales. The population in 2011 was 2,929, of whom 15% could speak Welsh and it is the first town on the River Severn, counting from the source. The towns Member of Parliament is the Conservative Glyn Davies and its Assembly Member is Conservative Russell George, the town is close to the large dam and reservoir Llyn Clywedog. There is a mountain road connecting Machynlleth and Llanidloes. The Sarn Sabrina Walk – a 25-mile circular walk from Llanidloes to the source of the Severn, in 2007 the Semi Sabrina, a 12-mile circular walk, was added. The Hafren Forest is also used for car rallies such as Rally GB, Llanidloes takes its name from the early 7th century Celtic Saint Idloes, after whom its parish church is named. It was then part of the cantref of Arwystli, in 1280 Llanidloes received a market charter from the King and the benefit of Edwardian town planning and earthwork defences. The present-day street plan follows the 13th century grid layout and he suggested that the medieval castle with its bailey lay immediately to the south in the area of Mount Street. However, the positioning of the Castle and earthen bank defences needs to be verified by archaeological evidence. The town prospered and was granted borough status at about this time, revival after the Glyndwr uprising was slow, but there were 59 taxpayers in 1545. The following centuries saw the growth of weaving and flannel production and this was essentially a cottage industry, and the local products were sent to market in Shrewsbury. But the new technology was far from profitable, and the system led to increasing unrest. Newtown, connected to the Montgomeryshire Canal in 1819, soon became the centre of the industry in Wales with the opening of its Flannel Exchange in 1832. Some owners, particularly Thomas Jones, who owned the Cambrian and Spring Mills, struggled to promote the Llanidloes flannel industry, lead mining became the more profitable industry from 1865, when rich deposits were discovered at the Van mines. By 1876, the mines were among the most productive in the world, important too was the towns iron foundry, established in 1851. This second phase of prosperity is reflected in the townscape, most notably in the proliferation of fine chapels. Commercial success is reflected by the many fine shopfronts that survive from the part of the 19th century. But again decline set in, printing and tanning gained in importance, little has changed since then, except the building of houses, including a Garden Suburb and a new school
19.
Fulling
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Fulling, also known as tucking or walking, is a step in woollen clothmaking which involves the cleansing of cloth to eliminate oils, dirt, and other impurities, and making it thicker. The worker who does the job is a fuller, tucker, or walker, the Welsh word for a fulling mill is pandy, which appears in many place-names, for example Tonypandy. Fulling involves two processes, scouring and milling, originally, fulling was carried out by pounding the woollen cloth with the fullers feet, or hands, or a club. In Scottish Gaelic tradition, this process was accompanied by waulking songs, from the medieval period, however, fulling was often carried out in a water mill. These processes are followed by stretching the cloth on great frames known as tenters and it is from this process that the phrase being on tenterhooks is derived, as meaning to be held in suspense. The area where the tenters were erected was known as a tenterground, in Roman times, fulling was conducted by slaves working the cloth while ankle deep in tubs of human urine. Urine was so important to the business that it was taxed. Stale urine, known as wash, was a source of ammonium salts, by the medieval period, fullers earth had been introduced for use in the process. This is a soft clay-like material occurring naturally as an impure hydrous aluminium silicate and it was used in conjunction with wash. More recently, soap has been used, the second function of fulling was to thicken cloth by matting the fibres together to give it strength and increase waterproofing. This was vital in the case of woollens, made from carding wool, after this stage, water was used to rinse out the foul-smelling liquor used during cleansing. Felting of wool occurs upon hammering or other mechanical agitation because the barbs on the surface of wool fibres hook together. From the medieval period, the fulling of cloth often was undertaken in a mill, known as a fulling mill, a walk mill, or a tuck mill, and in Wales. In these, the cloth was beaten with wooden hammers, known as fulling stocks or fulling hammers, Fulling stocks were of two kinds, falling stocks that were used only for scouring, and driving or hanging stocks. In both cases the machinery was operated by cams on the shaft of a waterwheel or on a tappet wheel, driving stocks were pivoted so that the foot struck the cloth almost horizontally. The stock had a tub holding the liquor and cloth and this was somewhat rounded on the side away from the hammer, so that the cloth gradually turned, ensuring that all parts of it were milled evenly. However, the cloth was taken out every two hours to undo plaits and wrinkles. The foot was approximately triangular in shape, with notches to assist the turning of the cloth, there are several Biblical references to fulling
20.
Staple (wool)
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A wool staple is a naturally formed cluster or lock of wool fibres and not a single fibre. Very many staples together form a fleece, the cluster of wool fibres is made by a cluster of follicles. The natural cluster of wool is held together because individual fibres have the ability to attach to each other so that they stay together, when removed from the sheep the underside of the fleece shows all its distinct individual staples. For other textiles, the staple, having evolved from its usage with wool, is a measure of the quality of the fibre with regard to its length or fineness. Of uncertain origin but possibly a back-formation arising because part of the business of a wool-stapler was to sort, Staple strength is calculated as the force required to break per unit staple thickness, expressed as newtons per kilotex or N/tex. Position of Break is measured in conjunction with strength and is a measure of the position in the staple where it will break given enough force. The staple strength of wool is one of the determining factors when spinning yarn as well as the sale price of greasy wool. Virtually all fleece and better grade wool skirtings sold at auction in Australia are objectively measured prior to the sale with the average results printed in a catalogue, at least 40 staples must be measured to in order to conform to the Australian Standard. Wools under 30 newtons per kilotex are considered tender, currently wools over 40 newtons per kilotex are preferred and attract a premium. Seasonal conditions or the health of the sheep may influence the soundness of the wool, the staple length of the wool is the length of the staple, and highly correlated with mean fibre length in the top. Staple length generally determines the end use of wool, that is, the longer wools, generally around 51 mm and longer and called combing types, are processed to worsted yarn. Short-stapled wools are more used in the woollen section where high-grade material may be produced from superfine wool. The Australian Standard requires that a lot has a minimum of 55 staples measured with the average calculated and produced. The variability of this measure is reported as the coefficient of variation, although traditionally staple length only referred to animal fibres, it is now also used when referring to manufactured fibres. Micron Staple Wool Wool classing Cottle, D. J, breeds & Wool Uses - Lists different average staple lengths for various breeds, including pictures of measured staples lengths and staple-specific spinning notes. Raw Wool Testing Wool Types - Lists characteristics of various breeds, including staple lengths
21.
Silk
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Silk is a natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be woven into textiles. The protein fiber of silk is composed mainly of fibroin and is produced by insect larvae to form cocoons. The best-known silk is obtained from the cocoons of the larvae of the mulberry silkworm Bombyx mori reared in captivity, Silk is produced by several insects, but generally only the silk of moth caterpillars has been used for textile manufacturing. There has been research into other types of silk, which differ at the molecular level. Silk is mainly produced by the larvae of insects undergoing complete metamorphosis, Silk production also occurs in Hymenoptera, silverfish, mayflies, thrips, leafhoppers, beetles, lacewings, fleas, flies, and midges. Other types of arthropod produce silk, most notably various arachnids such as spiders, the word silk comes from Old English sioloc, from Greek σηρικός serikos, silken, ultimately from an Asian source. Several kinds of silk, which are produced by caterpillars other than the mulberry silkworm, have been known and used in China, South Asia. However, the scale of production was far smaller than for cultivated silks. Thus, the way to obtain silk suitable for spinning into textiles in areas where commercial silks are not cultivated was by tedious. Commercial silks originate from reared silkworm pupae, which are bred to produce a silk thread with no mineral on the surface. The pupae are killed by either dipping them in boiling water before the adult moths emerge or by piercing them with a needle. These factors all contribute to the ability of the cocoon to be unravelled as one continuous thread. Wild silks also tend to be difficult to dye than silk from the cultivated silkworm. Genetic modification of domesticated silkworms is used to facilitate the production of more types of silk. Silk fabric was first developed in ancient China, the earliest example of silk fabric is from 3630 BC, and it was used as wrapping for the body of a child from a Yangshao culture site in Qingtaicun at Xingyang, Henan. Legend gives credit for developing silk to a Chinese empress, Leizu, because of its texture and lustre, silk rapidly became a popular luxury fabric in the many areas accessible to Chinese merchants. Silk was in demand, and became a staple of pre-industrial international trade. In July 2007, archaeologists discovered intricately woven and dyed silk textiles in a tomb in Jiangxi province, Silk is described in a chapter on mulberry planting by Si Shengzhi of the Western Han
22.
Grunge
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Grunge is a subgenre of alternative rock and a subculture that emerged during the mid-1980s in the Pacific Northwest U. S. state of Washington, particularly in Seattle and nearby towns. The early grunge movement revolved around Seattles independent record label Sub Pop, the success of these bands boosted the popularity of alternative rock and made grunge the most popular form of rock music at the time. Grunge was also an influence on subsequent genres such as post-grunge, Grunge fuses elements of punk rock and heavy metal, such as the distorted electric guitar used in both genres, although some bands performed with more emphasis on one or the other. Like these genres, grunge typically uses electric guitar, bass guitar, a drummer, Grunge also incorporates influences from indie rock bands such as Sonic Youth. Lyrics are typically angst-filled and introspective, often addressing themes such as alienation, apathy, concerns about confinement. A number of factors contributed to decline in prominence. During the mid-late 1990s, many grunge bands broke up or became less visible, the word grunge was used in print in prior to the use of the term in mainstream publications to refer to the Seattle music genre. Rock has always been about it, Theres primal grunge. distortion. and fuzz. especially on the underground, a reference to distorted sounds in rock in a general sense. Mark Arm, the vocalist for the Seattle band Green River—and later Mudhoney—is generally credited as being the first to use the term grunge to describe the Seattle genre of music. Arm first used the term in 1981, when he wrote a letter under his given name Mark McLaughlin to the Seattle zine Desperate Times, criticizing his own band Mr. Epp and the Calculations as Pure grunge. Sub Pop called Green Rivers 1986 EP Dry as a Bone ultra-loose GRUNGE that destroyed the morals of a generation, Everett True states that when Arm stated that the streets of Seattle paved with grunge, he was using the term disparagingly. In this use of the word grunge, Arm was using it as an adjective, Arm said years later, Obviously, I didnt make grunge up. I got it from someone else, the term was already being thrown around in Australia in the mid-80s to describe bands like King Snake Roost, The Scientists, Salamander Jim, and Beasts of Bourbon. Arm used grunge as a descriptive rather than a genre term. When grunge first developed, music journalists called it rock, due to the genres focus on impossibly. Evergreen State was a college which did not use grading. Bands from Portland, Oregon, such as the Wipers, also influenced the genres pioneers. Some bands associated with the genre, such as Soundgarden, Pearl Jam and Alice in Chains, have not been receptive to the label, preferring instead to be referred to as rock and roll bands
23.
Nirvana (band)
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Nirvana was an American rock band formed by singer and guitarist Kurt Cobain and bassist Krist Novoselic in Aberdeen, Washington, in 1987. Nirvana went through a succession of drummers, the longest-lasting being Dave Grohl, despite releasing only three full-length studio albums in their seven-year career, Nirvana has come to be regarded as one of the most influential and important alternative bands in history. Though the band dissolved in 1994 after the suicide of Cobain, their music maintains a following and continues to influence modern rock. In the late 1980s, Nirvana established itself as part of the Seattle grunge scene, releasing its first album, Bleach and they developed a sound that relied on dynamic contrasts, often between quiet verses and loud, heavy choruses. After signing to major label DGC Records, Nirvana found unexpected success with Smells Like Teen Spirit, Nirvanas third studio album, In Utero, released to critical acclaim, featured an abrasive, less mainstream sound and challenged the groups audience. Nirvanas active career ended following the death of Cobain in 1994, but various posthumous releases have been issued since, overseen by Novoselic, Grohl, and Cobains widow Courtney Love. Since its debut, the band has sold over 25 million records in the United States alone, Nirvana was inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame in 2014, in its first year of eligibility. Cobain and Novoselic met while attending Aberdeen High, although they never connected, the pair eventually became friends while frequenting the practice space of the Melvins. Cobain wanted to form a band with Novoselic, but Novoselic did not respond for a period of time. In persuading Novoselic to form a band, Cobain gave him a tape of his project Fecal Matter. Three years after the two first met, Novoselic notified Cobain that he had listened to the Fecal Matter demo. The pair recruited Bob McFadden on drums, but after a month the project fell apart, in early 1987, Cobain and Novoselic recruited drummer Aaron Burckhard. The three practiced material from Cobains Fecal Matter tape but started writing new material soon after forming, during its initial months, the band went through a series of names, starting with Skid Row and including Pen Cap Chew, Bliss, and Ted Ed Fred. The group finally settled on Nirvana, which Cobain said was chosen because I wanted a name that was kind of beautiful or nice and pretty instead of a mean, raunchy punk name like the Angry Samoans. With Novoselic and Cobain having moved to Tacoma and Olympia, Washington, respectively, the pair instead practiced with Dale Crover of the Melvins, and Nirvana recorded its first demos in January 1988. In early 1988, Crover moved to San Francisco but recommended Dave Foster to the band as his replacement on drums, Cobain and Novoselic put an ad in Seattle music publication The Rocket seeking a replacement drummer, which only yielded unsatisfactory responses. Meanwhile, a friend introduced them to Chad Channing. Channing continued to jam with Cobain and Novoselic, although the drummer noted, They never actually said okay, youre in, Nirvana released its first single, a cover of Shocking Blues Love Buzz, in November 1988 on the Seattle independent record label Sub Pop
24.
Pearl Jam
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Pearl Jam is an American rock band formed in Seattle, Washington, in 1990. Since its inception, the bands line-up has comprised Eddie Vedder, Mike McCready, Stone Gossard, the bands fifth member is drummer Matt Cameron, who has been with the band since 1998. Boom Gaspar has also been a member with the band since 2002. Drummers Dave Krusen, Matt Chamberlain, Dave Abbruzzese and Jack Irons are former members of the band, formed after the demise of Gossard and Aments previous band, Mother Love Bone, Pearl Jam broke into the mainstream with its debut album, Ten, in 1991. In 2006, Rolling Stone described the band as having spent much of the past decade deliberately tearing apart their own fame, to date, the band has sold nearly 32 million records in the United States and an estimated 60 million worldwide. Pearl Jam has outlasted and outsold many of its contemporaries from the alternative rock breakthrough of the early 1990s, stephen Thomas Erlewine of AllMusic referred to Pearl Jam as the most popular American rock & roll band of the 90s. Pearl Jam is to be inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame on April 7,2017, Stone Gossard and Jeff Ament were members of pioneering grunge band Green River during the mid-1980s. Green River toured and recorded to moderate success but disbanded in 1987 due to a division between the pair and bandmates Mark Arm and Steve Turner. In late 1987, Gossard and Ament began playing with Malfunkshun vocalist Andrew Wood, in 1988 and 1989, the band recorded and toured to increasing interest and found the support of the PolyGram record label, which signed the band in early 1989. Mother Love Bones debut album, Apple, was released in July 1990, Ament and Gossard were devastated by the death of Wood and the resulting demise of Mother Love Bone. Gossard spent his time writing material that was harder-edged than what he had been doing previously. After a few months, Gossard started practicing with fellow Seattle guitarist Mike McCready, whose band, Shadow, had broken up, after practicing for a while, the trio sent out a five-song demo tape in order to find a singer and a drummer. They gave former Red Hot Chili Peppers drummer Jack Irons the demo to see if he would be interested in joining the band, Irons passed on the invitation but gave the demo to his basketball buddy, San Diego, California singer Eddie Vedder. Vedder was the lead vocalist for a San Diego band, Bad Radio and he listened to the tape shortly before going surfing, where lyrics came to him. He then recorded the vocals to three of the songs in what he described as a mini-opera entitled Momma-Son. Vedder sent the tape with his vocals back to the three Seattle musicians, who were impressed enough to fly Vedder up to Seattle for an audition, within a week, Vedder had joined the band. With the addition of Dave Krusen on drums, the band took the name Mookie Blaylock, the band played its first official show at the Off Ramp Café in Seattle on October 22,1990, and soon signed to Epic Records and renamed themselves Pearl Jam. In a 2006 Rolling Stone cover story however, Vedder admitted that this story was total bullshit, Pearl Jam entered Seattles London Bridge Studios in March 1991 to record its debut album, Ten
25.
Warp and weft
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In weaving, the weft is the term for the thread or yarn which is drawn through, inserted over-and-under, the lengthwise warp yarns that are held in tension on a frame or loom to create cloth. Warp is the lengthwise or longitudinal thread in a roll, while weft is the transverse thread, a single thread of the weft, crossing the warp, is called a pick. Each individual warp thread in a fabric is called an end or end. The weft is a thread or yarn usually made of spun fibre, the original fibres used were wool, flax or cotton. Today, man-made fibres are used in weaving. Because the weft does not have to be stretched on a loom in the way that the warp is, the weft is threaded through the warp using a shuttle, air jets or rapier grippers. Hand looms were the original weavers tool, with the shuttle being threaded through alternately raised warps by hand, inventions during the 18th century spurred the Industrial Revolution, with the picking stick and the flying shuttle speeding up production of cloth. The power loom patented by Edmund Cartwright in 1785 allowed sixty picks per minute, a useful way of remembering which is warp and which is weft is, one of them goes from weft to wight. The words woof and weft derive ultimately from the Old English word wefan, Warp means that which is thrown away. Very simple looms use a warp, in which a single. Because the warp is held under tension during the entire process of weaving and warp yarn must be strong, yarn for warp ends is usually spun. Traditional fibres for warping are wool, linen, alpaca, with the improvements in spinning technology during the Industrial Revolution, it became possible to make cotton yarn of sufficient strength to be used as the warp in mechanized weaving. Later, artificial or man-made fibres such as nylon or rayon were employed, while most people are familiar with weft-faced weavings, it is possible to create warp-faced weavings using densely arranged warp threads. In warp-faced weavings, the design for the textile is in the warp, warp-faced weavings are defined by length-wise stripes and vertical designs due to the limitations of color placement. The expression woof and warp is used metaphorically as one might similarly use fabric, e. g. the warp. The expression is used as a metaphor for the structure on which something is built. Warp or woof are also found in the Bible in the discussion of mildews found in cloth materials in Leviticus 13. Weft is also a term for temporary hair extensions
26.
Diaper
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When diapers become soiled, they require changing, generally by a second person such as a parent or caregiver. Failure to change a diaper on a regular basis can result in skin problems around the area covered by the diaper. Diapers are made of cloth or synthetic disposable materials, cloth diapers are composed of layers of fabric such as cotton, hemp, bamboo, microfiber, or even plastic fibers such as PLA, and can be washed and reused multiple times. Disposable diapers contain absorbent chemicals and are thrown away after use, plastic pants can be worn over diapers to avoid leaks, but with modern cloth diapers, this is no longer necessary. Diapers are primarily worn by infants, and by children who are not yet potty trained or who experience bedwetting and they are also used by adults with incontinence or in certain circumstances where access to a toilet is unavailable. These can include those of advanced age, individuals with certain types of physical or mental disability, diaper fetishists and it is not uncommon for people to wear diapers under dry suits. The first cloth diapers consisted of a type of soft tissue sheet. This type of pattern was called diapering and eventually gave its name to the used to make diapers and then to the diaper itself. This usage stuck in the United States and Canada following the British colonization of North America, most sources believe nappy is a diminutive form of the word napkin, which itself was originally a diminutive. In the 19th century, the modern diaper began to shape and mothers in many parts of the world used cotton material. Cloth diapers in the United States were first mass-produced in 1887 by Maria Allen, in the UK, nappies were made out of terry towelling, often with an inner lining made out of soft muslin. Here is an extract from The Modern Home Doctor written by physicians in the UK in 1935, doctors believed that rubber pants were harmful because they thought the rubber acted as a poultice and damaged the skin of infants. The constant problem to be overcome was diaper rash, and the infection thereof, the concern was that lack of air circulation would worsen this condition. In the 20th century, the disposable diaper was conceived, in the 1930s, Robinsons of Chesterfield had what were labeled Destroyable Babies Napkins listed in their catalogue for the wholesale market. In 1944, Hugo Drangel of the Swedish paper company Pauliström suggested a design which would entail the placing of sheets of paper tissue inside the cloth diaper and rubber pants. However, cellulose wadding was rough against the skin and crumbled into balls when exposed to moisture, in 1946, Marion Donovan used a shower curtain from her bathroom to create the Boater, a plastic cover to be donned outside a diaper. First sold in 1949 at Saks Fifth Avenues flagship store in New York City, patents were issued in 1951 to Donovan. Donovan also designed a paper disposable diaper, but was unsuccessful in marketing it, in 1947, Scottish housewife Valerie Hunter Gordon started developing and making Paddi, a 2-part system consisting of a disposable pad worn inside an adjustable plastic garment with press-studs/snaps
27.
Twill
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Twill is a type of textile weave with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs. Because of this structure, twill generally drapes well, Twill weaves can be classified from four points of view, According to the stepping, Warp-way, 3/1 warp way twill, etc. Weft-way, 2/3 weft way twill, etc, According to the direction of twill lines on the face of the fabric, S-Twill or left-hand twill weave, 2/1 S, etc. Z-Twill or right-hand twill weave, 3/2 Z, etc, According to the face yarn, Warp face twill weave, 4/2 S, etc. Weft face twill weave, 1/3 Z, etc, double face twill weave, 3/3 Z, etc. According to the nature of the twill line, Simple twill weave, 1/2 S. Expanded twill weave, 4/3 S, 3/2 Z, etc, multiple twill weave, 2/3/3/1 S, etc. In a twill weave, each weft or filling yarn floats across the warp yarns in a progression of interlacings to the right or left and this diagonal pattern is also known as a wale. A float is the portion of a yarn that crosses over two or more perpendicular yarns, a twill weave requires three or more harnesses, depending on its complexity and is the second most basic weave that can be made on a fairly simple loom. The fraction 2⁄1 is read as two up, one down, the minimum number of harnesses needed to produce a twill can be determined by totaling the numbers in the fraction, for the example described, the number of harnesses is three. Twill weave can be identified by its diagonal lines, Twill fabrics technically have a front and a back side, unlike plain weave, whose two sides are the same. The front side of the twill is called the technical face, if there are warp floats on the technical face, there will be filling floats on the technical back. If the twill wale goes up to the right on one side, Twill fabrics have no up and down as they are woven. Sheer fabrics are made with a twill weave. Because a twill surface already has interesting texture and design, printed twills are much less common than printed plain weaves, when twills are printed, this is typically done on lightweight fabrics. Denim, for example, is a twill, the fewer interlacings in twills as compared to other weaves allow the yarns to move more freely, and therefore they are softer and more pliable, and drape better than plain-weave textiles. Twills also recover from creasing better than plain-weave fabrics do, when there are fewer interlacings, the yarns can be packed closer together to produce high-count fabrics. With higher counts, including high-count twills, the fabric is more durable, twills can be divided into even-sided and warp-faced
28.
Plain weave
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Plain weave is the most basic of three fundamental types of textile weaves. It is strong and hard-wearing, used for fashion and furnishing fabrics, in plain weave, the warp and weft are aligned so they form a simple criss-cross pattern. Each weft thread crosses the warp threads by going over one, then under the next, the next weft thread goes under the warp threads that its neighbor went over, and vice versa. Balanced plain weaves are fabrics in which the warp and weft are made of threads of the same weight, basketweave is a variation of plain weave in which two or more threads are bundled and then woven as one in the warp or weft, or both. A balanced plain weave can be identified by its checkerboard-like appearance and it is also known as one-up-one-down weave or over and under pattern. Examples of fabric with plain weave are chiffon, organza, percale and its uses range from heavy and coarse canvas and blankets made of thick yarns to the lightest and finest cambries and muslins made in extremely fine yarns. Kadolph, Sara J. ed. Textiles, 10th edition, Saddle River, New Jersey, Pearson/Prentice-Hall,2007, ISBN 0-13-118769-4
29.
Dyeing
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Dyeing is the process of adding color to textile products like fibers, yarns, and fabrics. Dyeing is normally done in a solution containing dyes and particular chemical material. After dyeing, dye molecules have uncut chemical bond with fiber molecules, the temperature and time controlling are two key factors in dyeing. There are mainly two classes of dye, natural and man-made, the primary source of dye, historically, has generally been nature, with the dyes being extracted from animals or plants. Since the mid-19th century, however, humans have produced artificial dyes to achieve a range of colors and to render the dyes more stable to resist washing. Different classes of dyes are used for different types of fiber and at different stages of the production process, from loose fibers through yarn. Acrylic fibers are dyed with basic dyes, while nylon and protein fibers such as wool and silk are dyed with acid dyes, cotton is dyed with a range of dye types, including vat dyes, and modern synthetic reactive and direct dyes. The word dye is from Middle English deie and from Old English dag, the first known use of the word dye was before the 12th century. The earliest dyed flax fibers have found in a prehistoric cave in the Republic of Georgia. In China, dyeing with plants, barks, and insects has been traced more than 5,000 years. Early evidence of dyeing comes from Sindh province in Pakistan, where a piece of cotton dyed with a dye was recovered from the archaeological site at Mohenjo-daro. The dye used in case was madder, which, along with other dyes such as indigo, was introduced to other regions through trade. The first synthetic dye was William Perkins mauveine in 1856, derived from coal tar, alizarin, the red dye present in madder, was the first natural pigment to be duplicated synthetically in 1869, a development which led to the collapse of the market for naturally grown madder. The development of new, strongly colored synthetic dyes followed quickly, dyes are applied to textile goods by dyeing from dye solutions and by printing from dye pastes. Methods include direct application and yarn dyeing and this renders the dye soluble so that it can be absorbed by the fiber since the insoluble dye has very little substantivity to the fiber. Direct dyes, a class of dyes largely for dyeing cotton, are water-soluble, most other classes of synthetic dye, other than vat and surface dyes, are also applied in this way. The term may also be applied to dyeing without the use of mordants to fix the dye once it is applied, mordants were often required to alter the hue and intensity of natural dyes and improve color fastness. Chromium salts were until recently used in dyeing wool with synthetic mordant dyes
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Argyle (pattern)
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An argyle pattern is made of diamonds or lozenges. The word is used to refer to an individual diamond in the design. Most argyle contains layers of overlapping motifs, adding a sense of three-dimensionality, movement, typically, there is an overlay of intercrossing diagonal lines on solid diamonds. These were generally known as tartan hose, argyle knitwear became fashionable in Great Britain and then in the USA after the First World War of 1914-1918. Pringle of Scotland popularised the design, helped by its identification with the Duke of Windsor, pringles website says that the iconic Pringle argyle design was developed in the 1920s. The Duke, like others, used pattern for golf clothing. Payne Stewart, who won the U. S. Open and a PGA championship, was known and loved by fans for his bright and flashy dress, he wore tams, knickerbockers, as a knitting pattern, argyle is generally accomplished using the intarsia technique. On April 27,2013 the professional soccer team Sporting Kansas City of Major League Soccer in the United States announced their third kit of the 2013 season, featuring an argyle pattern. The University of North Carolina has used the pattern for its basketball uniforms since 1991
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Coldharbour Mill Working Wool Museum
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Coldharbour Mill, near the village of Uffculme in Devon, England, is one of the oldest woollen textile mills in the world, having been in continuous production since 1797. The headquarters for the mill was at Tonedale in Wellington, the water provided by the nearby River Culm was a prime factor in Thomas Foxs decision to purchase the existing grist mill. In 1797 he wrote to his brother I have purchased the premises at Uffculme for eleven hundred guineas, the buildings are but middling, but the stream good. The roads in the area at the time were very poor and it appears that there has been a mill of some description near the Coldharbour site since Saxon times. The Domesday Book recording two mills in the Uffculme area, at its peak the company employed approximately 5,000 people and owned and operated nine mills and factories in Somerset, Devon, and Oxfordshire. One of the most notable satellite mills was that of William Bliss & Sons, located in Chipping Norton, the William Bliss site was one of the grandest mills in England, complete with reading room, chapel and workers cottages. Fox Brothers bought it in 1920, the main Tonedale site in Wellington was the largest integrated mill site in the South West of England, covering 10 acres of land and forming the hub of the Fox Brothers woollen manufacturing empire. The ancestors of the owners, the Fox family and the Were family, were early Quaker converts. During George Foxs first visit to Devonshire in 1655, he went to the house of Nicholas Tripe and his wife and their daughter, Anstice, married George Croker of Plymouth, and they were much persecuted for their beliefs. Their daughter Tabitha married Francis Fox of St. Germans, Cornwall, Thomas Were was a very successful manufacturer, and had inherited the WRE trademark, which certified the quality of his cloth. His great-great grandfather John Were of Pinksmoor was credited with owning a fulling mill, during one of the visits of Edward to his father-in-law, it was suggested that one of Edward and Annes sons should join the Wellington woollen manufacturing business. After four years overseas, Edwards son Thomas Fox moved to Wellington. Thomas and his wife Sarah Smith, built in 1801, then lived in, Tone Dale House, Wellington - the house is lived in by a Fox, five generations later, by Ben. In 1826, when his sons were partners, the business was renamed Fox Brothers, the almost incredible sum of £900,000 was lately subscribed at Wells in about two hours for cutting one from Taunton to Bristol. In 1787, Were and Company ran short of ready cash, on 30 October, Thomas printed 500 notes of five guineas each. The notes were well received by local businesses, in 1797, an invasion scare resulted in a shortage of gold and cash, and Thomas Fox issued 3,000 five guinea notes, and seventy six £20 notes in order to enable his business to continue its expansion. One of the original £5 notes is on display at Tone Dale House, Exeter was the centre of the mediaeval woollen trade in England, with cloth being exported to the Continental markets of France, Holland and Germany. Kersey, a cloth, was superseded by serge, so that by 1681 95% of the Exeter cloth export was serge
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Madras (cloth)
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Madras is a lightweight cotton fabric with typically patterned texture and plaid design, used primarily for summer clothing such as pants, shorts, dresses, and jackets. The fabric takes its name from the name of the city of Chennai in India. Authentic Madras comes from Chennai, both sides of the cloth must bear the pattern, it must be handwoven. The cotton is hand-dyed after being spun into yarn, woven, Madras fabric is generally regarded as belonging to the peasant class in its native India. Dutch traders arrived in India in the early 1600s to trade in the calico cloth. The English East India Company sought quality textiles, finding the small fishing village of Madraspatnam, the first madras material was a muslin overprinted or embroidered in elaborate patterns with vegetable dyes. Undyed madras cloth became popular in Europe because it was lightweight, cotton plaid madras reached America in 1718 as a donation to the Collegiate School of Connecticut. Sears offered the first madras shirt for sale to the American consumer in its 1897 catalog, the name madras was attributed to shirt maker David J. Anderson in 1844, although the material had been referred to as such much earlier. In 1958 William Jacobson, a textile importer, traveled to Bombay to trade with Captain C. P. Krishnan, exporter of madras from Chennai, the two men struck a dollar-a-yard deal for madras material possessing a strong smell of vegetable dyes and sesame oils, woven of bright colors and originally bound for South Africa. To counter dissatisfied customers, Madison Avenue advertising giant David Ogilvy coined the phrase guaranteed to bleed and used this as a point rather than a defect. A1966 catalog advertisement stated, Authentic Indian Madras is completely handwoven from yarns dyed with native vegetable colorings, home-spun by native weavers, no two plaids are exactly the same. When washed with soap in warm water, they are guaranteed to bleed. In the United States, the plaid cotton madras shirt became popular in the 1960s among the post-World War II generation of baby boomers
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Wayback Machine
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The Internet Archive launched the Wayback Machine in October 2001. It was set up by Brewster Kahle and Bruce Gilliat, and is maintained with content from Alexa Internet, the service enables users to see archived versions of web pages across time, which the archive calls a three dimensional index. Since 1996, the Wayback Machine has been archiving cached pages of websites onto its large cluster of Linux nodes and it revisits sites every few weeks or months and archives a new version. Sites can also be captured on the fly by visitors who enter the sites URL into a search box, the intent is to capture and archive content that otherwise would be lost whenever a site is changed or closed down. The overall vision of the machines creators is to archive the entire Internet, the name Wayback Machine was chosen as a reference to the WABAC machine, a time-traveling device used by the characters Mr. Peabody and Sherman in The Rocky and Bullwinkle Show, an animated cartoon. These crawlers also respect the robots exclusion standard for websites whose owners opt for them not to appear in search results or be cached, to overcome inconsistencies in partially cached websites, Archive-It. Information had been kept on digital tape for five years, with Kahle occasionally allowing researchers, when the archive reached its fifth anniversary, it was unveiled and opened to the public in a ceremony at the University of California, Berkeley. Snapshots usually become more than six months after they are archived or, in some cases, even later. The frequency of snapshots is variable, so not all tracked website updates are recorded, Sometimes there are intervals of several weeks or years between snapshots. After August 2008 sites had to be listed on the Open Directory in order to be included. As of 2009, the Wayback Machine contained approximately three petabytes of data and was growing at a rate of 100 terabytes each month, the growth rate reported in 2003 was 12 terabytes/month, the data is stored on PetaBox rack systems manufactured by Capricorn Technologies. In 2009, the Internet Archive migrated its customized storage architecture to Sun Open Storage, in 2011 a new, improved version of the Wayback Machine, with an updated interface and fresher index of archived content, was made available for public testing. The index driving the classic Wayback Machine only has a bit of material past 2008. In January 2013, the company announced a ground-breaking milestone of 240 billion URLs, in October 2013, the company announced the Save a Page feature which allows any Internet user to archive the contents of a URL. This became a threat of abuse by the service for hosting malicious binaries, as of December 2014, the Wayback Machine contained almost nine petabytes of data and was growing at a rate of about 20 terabytes each week. Between October 2013 and March 2015 the websites global Alexa rank changed from 162 to 208, in a 2009 case, Netbula, LLC v. Chordiant Software Inc. defendant Chordiant filed a motion to compel Netbula to disable the robots. Netbula objected to the motion on the ground that defendants were asking to alter Netbulas website, in an October 2004 case, Telewizja Polska USA, Inc. v. Echostar Satellite, No.02 C3293,65 Fed. 673, a litigant attempted to use the Wayback Machine archives as a source of admissible evidence, Telewizja Polska is the provider of TVP Polonia and EchoStar operates the Dish Network
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International Standard Book Number
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The International Standard Book Number is a unique numeric commercial book identifier. An ISBN is assigned to each edition and variation of a book, for example, an e-book, a paperback and a hardcover edition of the same book would each have a different ISBN. The ISBN is 13 digits long if assigned on or after 1 January 2007, the method of assigning an ISBN is nation-based and varies from country to country, often depending on how large the publishing industry is within a country. The initial ISBN configuration of recognition was generated in 1967 based upon the 9-digit Standard Book Numbering created in 1966, the 10-digit ISBN format was developed by the International Organization for Standardization and was published in 1970 as international standard ISO2108. Occasionally, a book may appear without a printed ISBN if it is printed privately or the author does not follow the usual ISBN procedure, however, this can be rectified later. Another identifier, the International Standard Serial Number, identifies periodical publications such as magazines, the ISBN configuration of recognition was generated in 1967 in the United Kingdom by David Whitaker and in 1968 in the US by Emery Koltay. The 10-digit ISBN format was developed by the International Organization for Standardization and was published in 1970 as international standard ISO2108, the United Kingdom continued to use the 9-digit SBN code until 1974. The ISO on-line facility only refers back to 1978, an SBN may be converted to an ISBN by prefixing the digit 0. For example, the edition of Mr. J. G. Reeder Returns, published by Hodder in 1965, has SBN340013818 -340 indicating the publisher,01381 their serial number. This can be converted to ISBN 0-340-01381-8, the check digit does not need to be re-calculated, since 1 January 2007, ISBNs have contained 13 digits, a format that is compatible with Bookland European Article Number EAN-13s. An ISBN is assigned to each edition and variation of a book, for example, an ebook, a paperback, and a hardcover edition of the same book would each have a different ISBN. The ISBN is 13 digits long if assigned on or after 1 January 2007, a 13-digit ISBN can be separated into its parts, and when this is done it is customary to separate the parts with hyphens or spaces. Separating the parts of a 10-digit ISBN is also done with either hyphens or spaces, figuring out how to correctly separate a given ISBN number is complicated, because most of the parts do not use a fixed number of digits. ISBN issuance is country-specific, in that ISBNs are issued by the ISBN registration agency that is responsible for country or territory regardless of the publication language. Some ISBN registration agencies are based in national libraries or within ministries of culture, in other cases, the ISBN registration service is provided by organisations such as bibliographic data providers that are not government funded. In Canada, ISBNs are issued at no cost with the purpose of encouraging Canadian culture. In the United Kingdom, United States, and some countries, where the service is provided by non-government-funded organisations. Australia, ISBNs are issued by the library services agency Thorpe-Bowker
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Woven fabric
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Woven fabric is a textile formed by weaving. It is produced on a loom, and made of many threads woven on a warp, woven fabric only stretches diagonally on the bias directions, unless the threads used are elastic. Woven fabric cloth usually frays at the edges, unless techniques are used to counter it, such as the use of pinking shears or hemming
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Aertex
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Aertex is a British clothing company based in Manchester, established in 1888, and also the name of the original textile manufactured by the company. The company owns the trademark for Aertex fabric, a lightweight and loosely woven cotton material that is used to make shirts, Aertex sells a range of menswear. The result was a fabric that provided a barrier between the warmth of the skin and the chill of the atmosphere and in 1888 they formed the Aertex Company, by 1891 Aertex was firmly established in the wardrobes of the English middle classes. These uniforms were designated as Jungle Green for the Far East, in 1959 Aertex, together with Ovaltine, sponsored the All New Netball Associations coaching film. Later, Pele was seen to wear an Aertex shirt when he played briefly for the New York Cosmos, Aertex continued to influence the sportswear scene into the 1980s with major manufacturers like Adidas utilizing the unique properties of the fabric. George Best was seen to such a shirt when he played for the San Jose Earthquakes in 1981. Today Aertex is sold in shops in the UK. Aertex currently sells a range of menswear including polo and other shirts, knitwear, Aertex clothing has many links with the music and entertainment industry. Ex-Libertines and Dirty Pretty Things frontman Carl Barat and t4 presenters Jeff Leach, list of fabric names Aertex company official site & online store Probert Encyclopedia Article
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Airguard
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Airguard is a fabric made of polyamide hollow fibres. Air pockets of the fibres provide heat insulation, the polyamide material ensures a degree of abrasion-proofness and tear-resistance. The fabric is used for clothing but is definitely unsuitable as a safe outer material
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Barkcloth
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Barkcloth or bark cloth is a versatile material that was once common in Asia, Africa, Indonesia, and the Pacific. Barkcloth comes primarily from trees of the Moraceae family, including Broussonetia papyrifera, Artocarpus altilis and it is made by beating sodden strips of the fibrous inner bark of these trees into sheets, which are then finished into a variety of items. Many texts that mention paper clothing are actually referring to barkcloth, barkcloth has been manufactured in Uganda for centuries and is Ugandas sole representative on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage Lists. Today, what is commonly called barkcloth is a soft, thick, slightly textured fabric and this barkcloth is usually made of densely woven cotton fibers. Historically, the fabric has been used in home furnishings, such as curtains, drapery, upholstery, waverly, a famed design house for textiles and wall coverings between 1923 and 2007, called their version of this fabric rhino cloth, possibly for the rough, nubbly surface. Cedar bark textile Lacebark Osnaburg Tapa cloth Bark Cloth − Then and Now, Amazing Discoveries, Cummings, Patricia L. Quilters Muse Virtual Museum
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Batiste
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Batiste is a fine cloth made from cotton, wool, polyester, or a blend, and the softest of the lightweight opaque fabrics. Batiste is a plain weave, a fine cloth made from cotton or linen such as cambric. Batiste was often used as a fabric for high-quality garments. Batiste is also used for handkerchiefs and lingerie, in 1901 Chamberss Twentieth Century Dictionary of the English Language defined batiste as usual French name for cambric or applied in commerce to a fine texture of linen and cotton. Cambric is a synonym of the French word batiste, itself attested since 1590, Batiste itself comes from the Picard batiche, attested since 1401, derived from the old French battre for bowing wool. Lightweight opaque fabrics are very thin and light but not as transparent as sheer fabrics, the distinction between the two is not always pronounced. End uses include apparel and furnishings, organdy, lawn, and batiste begin as the same greige goods. They differ from one another in the way they are finished, lawn and batiste do not receive the acid finish and, thus, remain opaque. Better quality fabrics are made of combed yarns, cambric Media related to Batiste at Wikimedia Commons
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Bengaline
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Bengaline is a woven silk-and-cotton material which became fashionable for women and children to wear in the 1880s and 1890s. It offered the impression of silk but was made with lesser amounts of silk than cotton. Lizzie Borden stated at her December 1892 inquest that she was wearing a dress made of silk on the morning she was accused of murdering her father and stepmother. The fabric went out of fashion when completely smooth-surfaced materials became popular, piqué, coachmans whipcord, diagonal serge, and surah are similar to bengaline silk. Surah was once known in France as silk serge, bengaline silk sold for $2.50 per yard in 1889 but was sometimes discounted to sell for $1.25 per yard. A heavy lined, long cloak for infants, with deep bengaline silk embroidery, retailed for $7.98 at a Manhattan, New York clothing shop, diagonal striped dresses featuring the fabric were popular in the spring of 1912
Media related to Flannel at Wikimedia Commons
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