1.
Crop top
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A crop top is a top, the lower part of which is high enough to expose the waist, navel, or some of the midriff. The cropping of a top in this manner is generally limited to female garments, bikinis and sports bras are generally not regarded as crop tops. Crop tops have been worn by men generally during the 1970s, the protective gear of American Football with no shirt resembles a crop top. Eventually cropped jerseys became available which carried over to several 1980s telecasts, men also started to wear crop tops regardless of sport. Because of the acceptance for men wearing no shirt, and due to a change in school dress codes as well as peer pressure. Various crop tops have been worn by rappers as well as American Football athletes, however, in 2015 the NCAA has increased restrictions on men wearing crop tops which also includes rolling up longer jerseys. However, the NFL has permitted to Elliott to wear rolled up jersey until September 2016 and this is an isolated event, as most other sport uniforms require men to wear long shirts. In the 1980s, cutoff crop tops became more common as part of the aerobic craze, singer Madonna wore a mesh crop top in her video for the song Lucky Star. It became common for women to crop sections of workout wear, such as sleeves, collars, Crop tops were also often paired with low-slung belts in the 1980s, angled at the side of the hip. But its popularity embarks on the 1990s, by the mid-1990s, the crop top took on the form of the babydoll shirt, a cropped, tight-fitting T-shirt which often featured graphic logos. Long-sleeved crop tops and even crop turtleneck tops also became fashionable for the first time, by the late 1990s, crop tops had become so mainstream that many schools expressly banned garments that expose the midriff in their dress code. While pop singers such as Britney Spears and Christina Aguilera popularized the crop top for teeny boppers in the 1990s, certain members of the all-female musical groups All Saints and the Spice Girls wore crop tops on stage during their pregnancies. Since 2000, cropped jackets and blazers have become more popular while the hemlines of shirts have mostly remained longer, in the 2010s, the crop top experienced a revival due to the popularity of 1990s nostalgia fashion. Top Hip-huggers Low-rise pants Dudou and Yếm, East Asian tops that sometimes function as croptops Media related to Crop tops at Wikimedia Commons
2.
Fashion
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Fashion is a popular style or practice, especially in clothing, footwear, accessories, makeup, body, or furniture. Fashion is a distinctive and often constant trend in the style in which a person dresses and it is the prevailing styles in behaviour and the newest creations of textile designers. Although aspects of fashion can be feminine or masculine, some trends are androgynous, early Western travelers, traveling whether to Persia, Turkey, India, or China, would frequently remark on the absence of change in fashion in the respective places. The Japanese Shoguns secretary bragged to a Spanish visitor in 1609 that Japanese clothing had not changed in over a thousand years, however, there is considerable evidence in Ming China of rapidly changing fashions in Chinese clothing. Changes in costume took place at times of economic or social change, as occurred in ancient Rome. In 8th-century Moorish Spain, the musician Ziryab introduced to Córdoba sophisticated clothing-styles based on seasonal and daily fashions from his native Baghdad, modified by his own inspiration. Similar changes in fashion occurred in the 11th century in the Middle East following the arrival of the Turks, who introduced clothing styles from Central Asia, the beginning in Europe of continual and increasingly rapid change in clothing styles can be fairly reliably dated. This created the distinctive Western outline of a tailored top worn over leggings or trousers, the pace of change accelerated considerably in the following century, and women and mens fashion, especially in the dressing and adorning of the hair, became equally complex. Art historians are able to use fashion with confidence and precision to date images, often to within five years. These national styles remained very different until a counter-movement in the 17th to 18th centuries imposed similar styles once again, in the 16th century, national differences were at their most pronounced. Ten 16th century portraits of German or Italian gentlemen may show ten entirely different hats, albrecht Dürer illustrated the differences in his actual contrast of Nuremberg and Venetian fashions at the close of the 15th century. Though textile colors and patterns changed from year to year, the cut of a gentlemans coat, by 1800, all Western Europeans were dressing alike, local variation became first a sign of provincial culture and later a badge of the conservative peasant. The Haute house was the established by government for the fashion houses that met the standards of industry. Since then, the idea of the designer as a celebrity in his or her own right has become increasingly dominant. The impact of unisex expands more broadly to various themes in fashion including androgyny, mass-market retail. Fashion weeks are held in cities, where designers exhibit their new clothing collections to audiences. Modern Westerners have a number of choices available in the selection of their clothes. What a person chooses to wear can reflect his or her personality or interests, when people who have high cultural status start to wear new or different clothes, a fashion trend may start
3.
Abdomen
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The abdomen constitutes the part of the body between the thorax and pelvis, in humans and in other vertebrates. The region occupied by the abdomen is termed the abdominal cavity, in arthropods it is the posterior tagma of the body, it follows the thorax or cephalothorax. The abdomen stretches from the thorax at the diaphragm to the pelvis at the pelvic brim. The pelvic brim stretches from the joint to the pubic symphysis and is the edge of the pelvic inlet. The space above this inlet and under the thoracic diaphragm is termed the abdominal cavity, the boundary of the abdominal cavity is the abdominal wall in the front and the peritoneal surface at the rear. The abdomen contains most of the organs of the digestive tract. Hollow abdominal organs include the stomach, the intestine. Organs such as the liver, its attached gallbladder, and the function in close association with the digestive tract. The spleen, kidneys, and adrenal glands also lie within the abdomen, along with blood vessels including the aorta. Anatomists may consider the urinary bladder, uterus, fallopian tubes, finally, the abdomen contains an extensive membrane called the peritoneum. A fold of peritoneum may completely cover certain organs, whereas it may only one side of organs that usually lie closer to the abdominal wall. Anatomists call the type of organs retroperitoneal. For example, the stomach of ruminants is divided into four chambers – rumen, in vertebrates, the abdomen is a large cavity enclosed by the abdominal muscles, ventrally and laterally, and by the vertebral column dorsally. Lower ribs can also enclose ventral and lateral walls, the abdominal cavity is upper part of the pelvic cavity. It is attached to the cavity by the diaphragm. Structures such as the aorta, inferior vena cava and esophagus pass through the diaphragm, both the abdominal and pelvic cavities are lined by a serous membrane known as the parietal peritoneum. This membrane is continuous with the visceral peritoneum lining the organs, the abdomen in vertebrates contains a number of organs belonging, for instance, to the digestive tract and urinary system. There are three layers of the abdominal wall and they are, from the outside to the inside, external oblique, internal oblique, and transverse abdominal
4.
Choli
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A choli is a midriff-baring blouse or upper garment in the Indian sari costume worn in India, southern Nepal, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, and other countries where the sari is worn. It is also part of the ghagra choli costume of India, the choli evolved from ancient Stanapatta, it was part of three-piece attire worn during ancient period. The Antriya lower garment, Uttariya veil worn over shoulder or head and Stanapatta a chestband, rajatarangini, a tenth-century literary work by Kalhana, states that the Choli from the Deccan was introduced under the royal order in Kashmir. Early cholis were front covering, tied at the back, Choli of this type are still common in state of Rajasthan. Pre-Christian era paintings of Maharashtra and Gujarat are considered the first recorded examples of choli, in parts of Hindi-belt, mostly in Rajasthan, Haryana and Uttar pradesh women wore vest-like garment known as Kanchli over choli, this complete attire is known as Poshak. A lady of honour ideally covered her back and upper arms with a made of a thicker fabric. Of course, not every woman followed the norm, in the 1970s and 1980s, the blouses went knotty, criss-crossed with a deep cut, and even shone through the sheer saree. Anupama Raj, a boutique owner commented, There is a real need to re-invent the choli so that it can be worn with a variety of outfits. Just as we see the choli to be a form of the blouse. Only then, will it be acceptable internationally, bobby Malik, an exporter-turned-designer commented, The choli is the most sensuous of all garments created for women. It not only flatters the feminine form, but also brings out the romanticism in a woman, but where Indian designers have failed is at giving it an international look and making it still more beautiful. The late Khushwant Singh in his book Sex Scotch and Scholarship stated, A well-cut blouse worn with the saree elevates the bosom, today the entire approach towards the choli is adventurous. Their metamorphosis has taken cholis from being demure and sedate to daring, with tailoring and innovative necklines, such as halter, tubes. Designer Manish Malhotra said, Since most young people follow a healthy gym routine and are at ease with their bodies, they want to look different and they like to travel and carry a sense of Indianness around them. Designer Vikram Phadnis said, Its also to do with the fact that the new age woman is well-traveled, well-read, sonora Kabir, another Delhi-based designer commented, Normally, the choli is supposed to hover around the navel area. But if you crop the lower edges and combine it with a funky design — beads, cholis can be made from many fabrics. For everyday wear, cotton-based materials such as terry-cot and silk cotton are widely considered the most comfortable, chiffon, silk, crepe and satin are best suited for formal occasions. The ideal fabric for cholis in the summer is chiffon and georgette, sheer and other transparent fabrics are considered to add glamour, provided they come with an opaque lining in the right places
5.
India
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India, officially the Republic of India, is a country in South Asia. It is the seventh-largest country by area, the second-most populous country, and it is bounded by the Indian Ocean on the south, the Arabian Sea on the southwest, and the Bay of Bengal on the southeast. It shares land borders with Pakistan to the west, China, Nepal, and Bhutan to the northeast, in the Indian Ocean, India is in the vicinity of Sri Lanka and the Maldives. Indias Andaman and Nicobar Islands share a border with Thailand. The Indian subcontinent was home to the urban Indus Valley Civilisation of the 3rd millennium BCE, in the following millennium, the oldest scriptures associated with Hinduism began to be composed. Social stratification, based on caste, emerged in the first millennium BCE, early political consolidations took place under the Maurya and Gupta empires, the later peninsular Middle Kingdoms influenced cultures as far as southeast Asia. In the medieval era, Judaism, Zoroastrianism, Christianity, and Islam arrived, much of the north fell to the Delhi sultanate, the south was united under the Vijayanagara Empire. The economy expanded in the 17th century in the Mughal empire, in the mid-18th century, the subcontinent came under British East India Company rule, and in the mid-19th under British crown rule. A nationalist movement emerged in the late 19th century, which later, under Mahatma Gandhi, was noted for nonviolent resistance, in 2015, the Indian economy was the worlds seventh largest by nominal GDP and third largest by purchasing power parity. Following market-based economic reforms in 1991, India became one of the major economies and is considered a newly industrialised country. However, it continues to face the challenges of poverty, corruption, malnutrition, a nuclear weapons state and regional power, it has the third largest standing army in the world and ranks sixth in military expenditure among nations. India is a constitutional republic governed under a parliamentary system. It is a pluralistic, multilingual and multi-ethnic society and is home to a diversity of wildlife in a variety of protected habitats. The name India is derived from Indus, which originates from the Old Persian word Hindu, the latter term stems from the Sanskrit word Sindhu, which was the historical local appellation for the Indus River. The ancient Greeks referred to the Indians as Indoi, which translates as The people of the Indus, the geographical term Bharat, which is recognised by the Constitution of India as an official name for the country, is used by many Indian languages in its variations. Scholars believe it to be named after the Vedic tribe of Bharatas in the second millennium B. C. E and it is also traditionally associated with the rule of the legendary emperor Bharata. Gaṇarājya is the Sanskrit/Hindi term for republic dating back to the ancient times, hindustan is a Persian name for India dating back to the 3rd century B. C. E. It was introduced into India by the Mughals and widely used since then and its meaning varied, referring to a region that encompassed northern India and Pakistan or India in its entirety
6.
Motion Picture Production Code
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The Motion Picture Production Code was the set of industry moral guidelines that was applied to most United States motion pictures released by major studios from 1930 to 1968. It is also known as the Hays Code, after Will H. Hays. Under Hays leadership, the MPPDA, later known as the Motion Picture Association of America, adopted the Production Code in 1930, the Production Code spelled out what was acceptable and what was unacceptable content for motion pictures produced for a public audience in the United States. From 1934 to 1954, the code was identified with Joseph Breen. In 1968, after years of minimal enforcement, the Production Code was replaced by the MPAA film rating system. In 1922, after several films and a series of off-screen scandals involving Hollywood stars. Many felt the industry had always been morally questionable. Political pressure was increasing, with legislators in 37 states introducing almost one hundred movie censorship bills in 1921, Hays was paid the then-lavish sum of $100,000 a year. Hays, Postmaster General under Warren G, Virginia followed suit the following year, with eight individual states having a board by the advent of sound film, but many of these were ineffectual. By the 1920s, the New York stage—a frequent source of subsequent screen material—had topless shows, performances filled with words, mature subject matters. Early in the sound system conversion process, it became apparent that what might be acceptable in New York would not be so in Kansas. Moviemakers were looking at the possibility that many states and cities would adopt their own codes of censorship, in 1927, Hays suggested to studio executives that they form a committee to discuss film censorship. This list consisted of eleven subjects best avoided and twenty-six to be handled very carefully, the list was approved by the Federal Trade Commission, and Hays created the Studio Relations Committee to oversee its implementation, however, there was still no way to enforce tenets. The controversy surrounding film standards came to a head in 1929, the Code enumerated a number of key points known as the Donts and Be Carefuls, In 1929, a Catholic layman, Martin Quigley and the Jesuit priest Father Daniel A. Lord created a code of standards and submitted it to the studios, Lord was particularly concerned with the effects of sound film on children, whom he considered especially susceptible to their allure. In February 1930, several studio heads—including Irving Thalberg of Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer —met with Lord, after some revisions, they agreed to the stipulations of the Code. One of the motivating factors in adopting the Code was to avoid direct government intervention. It was the responsibility of the SRC to supervise film production, on March 31, the MPPDA agreed it would abide by the Code
7.
42nd Street (film)
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42nd Street is a 1933 American pre-Code musical film, directed by Lloyd Bacon. The choreography was staged by Busby Berkeley, the songs were written by Harry Warren and Al Dubin. The script was written by Rian James and James Seymour, with Whitney Bolton and this backstage musical was very successful at the box office and is now considered a classic by many. It was nominated for the Academy Award for Best Picture, in 1998, it was selected for preservation in the United States National Film Registry by the Library of Congress as being culturally, historically, or aesthetically significant. In 2006, it ranked 13th on the American Film Institutes list of best musicals and it is 1932, the depth of the Depression, and noted Broadway producers Jones and Barry are putting on Pretty Lady, a musical starring Dorothy Brock. He must make his last show a hit, in order to have money to retire on. Cast selection and rehearsals begin amidst fierce competition, with not a few casting couch innuendos flying around, lorraine is assured a job because of her relationship with dance director Andy Lee, she also sees to it that Ann and Peggy are chosen. The shows juvenile lead, Billy Lawler, takes a liking to Peggy. When Marsh learns about Dorothys relationship with Pat, he sends some thugs led by his gangster friend Slim Murphy to rough him up. That, plus her realization that their situation is unhealthy, makes Dorothy and Pat agree not to see each other for a while, rehearsals continue for five weeks to Marshs complete dissatisfaction until the night before the shows opening in Philadelphia, when Dorothy breaks her ankle. By the next morning Abner has quarreled with her and wants Julian to replace her with his new girlfriend and she, however, tells him that she cant carry the show, but the inexperienced Peggy can. With 200 jobs and his future riding on the outcome, a desperate Julian rehearses Peggy mercilessly until an hour before the premiere, Billy finally gets up the nerve to tell Peggy he loves her, she enthusiastically kisses him. Then Dorothy shows up and wishes her luck, telling her that she, the show goes on, and the last twenty minutes of the film are devoted to three Busby Berkeley production numbers, Shuffle Off to Buffalo, Young and Healthy, and 42nd Street. As the theater audience comes out Julian stands in the shadows, hearing the comments that Peggy is a star, plot note In the original Bradford Ropes novel Julian and Billy are lovers. Since same-sex relationships were unacceptable in films by the standards of the era. Nugent as Terry, a chorus boy Robert McWade as Jones George E. Dubin and Warren, the film was Ruby Keelers first, and the first time that Berkeley, Warren and Dubin had worked for Warner Bros. Director Lloyd Bacon was not the first choice to direct – he replaced Mervyn LeRoy when LeRoy became ill, LeRoy was dating Ginger Rogers at the time, and had suggested to her that she take the role of Anytime Annie. Stone as Andy, the dance director, the film began production on 5 October 1932
8.
Una Merkel
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Una Merkel was an American stage, film, radio, and television actress. Merkel was born in Kentucky and acted on stage in New York in the 1920s and she went to Hollywood in 1930 and became a popular film actress. Two of her performances are in the films 42nd Street. She won a Tony award in 1956, and was nominated for an Academy Award in 1961, Una Merkel was born in Covington, Kentucky, but in her early childhood, she lived in many of the Southern United States due to her fathers job as a traveling salesman. At the age of 15, her parents and she moved to Philadelphia and they stayed there a year or so before settling in New York City, where she began attending the Alviene School of Dramatic Art. Because of her resemblance to actress Lillian Gish, Merkel was offered a part as Gishs youngest sister in a silent film called World Shadows. Unfortunately, the public never saw the film because funding for it dried up, Merkel went on to appear in a few silent films during the silent era, several of them for the Lee Bradford Corporation. She also appeared in the two-reel Loves Old Sweet Song, which was made by Lee DeForest in his Phonofilm sound-on-film process and starred Louis Wolheim and Helen Weir. Not making much of a mark in films, Merkel turned her attention to the theater and her biggest triumph was in Coquette, which starred her idol, Helen Hayes. Invited to Hollywood by famous director D. W. Griffith to play Ann Rutledge in his Abraham Lincoln, with her Kewpie-doll looks, strong Southern accent, and wry line delivery, Merkel enlivened scores of films in the 1930s. She even had the distinction of playing Sam Spades secretary in the original 1931 version of The Maltese Falcon, Merkel was a Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer contract player from 1932 to 1938, appearing in as many as 12 films in a year, often on loan-out to other studios. She was also often cast as leading lady to a number of actors in their pictures, including Jack Benny, Harold Lloyd, Franchot Tone. In 42nd Street, Merkel played a show girl who was Ginger Rogers characters buddy. In the famous Shuffle Off to Buffalo number, Merkel and Rogers sang the verse, shell be wanting alimony in a year or so. /Still they go and shuffle, shuffle off to Buffalo. Merkel appeared in both the 1934 and the 1952 film versions of The Merry Widow, playing different roles in each and she played the elder daughter to the W. C. Fields character, Egbert Sousé, in the 1940 film The Bank Dick and her film career went into decline during the 1940s, although she continued working in smaller productions. In 1950, she was leading lady to William Bendix in the baseball comedy Kill the Umpire and she made a comeback as a middle-aged woman playing mothers and maiden aunts, and in 1956 won a Tony Award for her role on Broadway in The Ponder Heart. She had a part in the MGM1959 film The Mating Game as Paul Douglas wife and Debbie Reynoldss mother
9.
Italians
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Italians are a nation and ethnic group native to Italy who share a common culture, ancestry and speak the Italian language as a native tongue. The majority of Italian nationals are speakers of Standard Italian. Italians have greatly influenced and contributed to the arts and music, science, technology, cuisine, sports, fashion, jurisprudence, banking, Italian people are generally known for their localism and their attention to clothing and family values. The term Italian is at least 3,000 years old and has a history that goes back to pre-Roman Italy. According to one of the common explanations, the term Italia, from Latin, Italia, was borrowed through Greek from the Oscan Víteliú. The bull was a symbol of the southern Italic tribes and was often depicted goring the Roman wolf as a defiant symbol of free Italy during the Social War. Greek historian Dionysius of Halicarnassus states this account together with the legend that Italy was named after Italus, mentioned also by Aristotle and Thucydides. The Etruscan civilization reached its peak about the 7th century BC, but by 509 BC, when the Romans overthrew their Etruscan monarchs, its control in Italy was on the wane. By 350 BC, after a series of wars between Greeks and Etruscans, the Latins, with Rome as their capital, gained the ascendancy by 272 BC, and they managed to unite the entire Italian peninsula. This period of unification was followed by one of conquest in the Mediterranean, in the course of the century-long struggle against Carthage, the Romans conquered Sicily, Sardinia and Corsica. Finally, in 146 BC, at the conclusion of the Third Punic War, with Carthage completely destroyed and its inhabitants enslaved, octavian, the final victor, was accorded the title of Augustus by the Senate and thereby became the first Roman emperor. After two centuries of rule, in the 3rd century AD, Rome was threatened by internal discord and menaced by Germanic and Asian invaders. Emperor Diocletians administrative division of the empire into two parts in 285 provided only temporary relief, it became permanent in 395, in 313, Emperor Constantine accepted Christianity, and churches thereafter rose throughout the empire. However, he moved his capital from Rome to Constantinople. The last Western emperor, Romulus Augustulus, was deposed in 476 by a Germanic foederati general in Italy and his defeat marked the end of the western part of the Roman Empire. During most of the period from the fall of Rome until the Kingdom of Italy was established in 1861, Odoacer ruled well for 13 years after gaining control of Italy in 476. Then he was attacked and defeated by Theodoric, the king of another Germanic tribe, Theodoric and Odoacer ruled jointly until 493, when Theodoric murdered Odoacer. Theodoric continued to rule Italy with an army of Ostrogoths and a government that was mostly Italian, after the death of Theodoric in 526, the kingdom began to grow weak
10.
Western culture
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The term also applies beyond Europe, to countries and cultures whose histories are strongly connected to Europe by immigration, colonization, or influence. For example, Western Culture includes countries in the Americas and Australasia, whose language, before the Cold War era, the traditional Western viewpoint identified Western Civilization with the Western Christian countries and culture. Ancient Greece is considered the birthplace of Western culture, with the worlds first democratic system of government and major advances in philosophy, science, Greece was followed by Rome, which made key contributions in law, government, engineering and political organization. European culture developed with a range of philosophy, medieval scholasticism, and mysticism. Rational thinking developed through an age of change and formation, with the experiments of the Enlightenment. More often an ideology is what will be used to categorize it as a Western society. There is some disagreement about what nations should or should not be included in the category, many parts of the Eastern Roman Empire are considered Western today but were Eastern in the past. Since the context is highly biased and context-dependent, there is no agreed definition what the West is and it is difficult to determine which individuals fit into which category and the East–West contrast is sometimes criticized as relativistic and arbitrary. Globalism has spread Western ideas so widely that almost all cultures are, to some extent. Stereotyped views of the West have been labeled Occidentalism, paralleling Orientalism—the term for the 19th-century stereotyped views of the East, as Europe discovered the wider world, old concepts adapted. The area that had formerly considered the Orient became the Near East, as the interests of the European powers interfered with Meiji Japan and Qing China for the first time. Thus, the Sino-Japanese War in 1894–1895 occurred in the Far East, the Greeks contrasted themselves to their Eastern neighbors, such as the Trojans in Iliad, setting an example for later contrasts between east and west. In the Middle Ages, the Near East provided a contrast to the West, concepts of what is the West arose out of legacies of the Western Roman Empire and the Eastern Roman Empire. Later, ideas of the west were formed by the concepts of Latin Christendom, Western culture is neither homogeneous nor unchanging. As with all cultures, it has evolved and gradually changed over time. Nevertheless, it is possible to follow the evolution and history of the West, and appreciate its similarities and differences, its borrowings from, and contributions to, other cultures of humanity. Nevertheless, the Greeks felt they were the most civilized and saw themselves as something between the wild barbarians of most of Europe and the soft, slavish Middle-Easterners. In the meantime, however, Greece, under Alexander, had become a capital of the East, the Celts also created some significant literature in the ancient world whenever they were given the opportunity
11.
Bill Blass
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William Ralph Bill Blass was an American fashion designer, born in Fort Wayne, Indiana. He was the recipient of many awards, including seven Coty Awards. Blass was the son of Ralph Aldrich Blass, a traveling hardware salesman, who committed suicide when his son was five years old, and his wife, the former Ethyl Easter. He had one sister, Virginia Mae, in his autobiography, Blass wrote that the margins in his school books were filled with sketches of Hollywood-inspired fashions instead of notes. At fifteen, he began sewing and selling evening gowns for $25 each to a New York manufacturer. At seventeen, he had saved up money to move to Manhattan and study fashion. He spent his salary of $30 a week on clothing, shoes, in 1942, Blass enlisted in the Army. He was assigned to the 603rd Camouflage Battalion with a group of writers, artists, sound engineers, theater technicians and their mission was to fool the German Army into believing the Allies were positioned in fake locations. They did this by using recordings, dummy tanks, and other false materials and he served in this unit at several major operations including the Battle of the Bulge, the Rhine River crossing, Sicily, the Normandy breakout, and North Africa. Blass began his New York fashion career in 1945 and he was a protégé of Baron de Gunzburg. In 1970, after two decades of success in menswear and womenswear, he bought Maurice Rentner Ltd. which he had joined in 1959, over the next 30 years he expanded his line to include swimwear, furs, luggage, perfume, and chocolate. By 1998, his company had grown to a $700-million-a-year business, beginning in 1976, and continuing until 1992, Blass lent his talents to the Ford Motor Company for an edition of their Continental Mark series of automobiles. In 1976, he shared model configurations with Emilio Pucci, Hubert de Givenchy, each year, as goes true fashion, the interior and exterior color combinations would be updated. One of the most popular was the 1979 edition honoring a nautical theme, small anchors were incorporated into the exterior accent striping and interior accents within the Blass back-to-back B design theme. The 1979 through 1983 Mark series Blass models were available with a carriage roof giving a convertible top look to the cars, after 1983, the Bill Blass edition became a color option with rear quarter window model designations and a few features that were options on the standard model. In 1994, Blass gave $10 million to the New York Public Library, in recognition of the gift, the Public Catalogue Room of the Central Research Library at Fifth Avenue and 42nd Street was named the Bill Blass Public Catalogue Room. In 1999, Blass sold Bill Blass Limited for $50 million to Michael Groveman and retired to his home in New Preston, Blass was diagnosed with oral/tongue cancer in 2000, not long after he began writing his memoir. His cancer later developed into throat cancer, resulting in his death on June 12,2002 at age 79
12.
Madeleine Vionnet
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Madeleine Vionnet was a French fashion designer. Born in Loiret, France, Vionnet trained in London before returning to France to establish her first fashion house in Paris in 1912. Although it was forced to close in 1914 at the outbreak of the First World War, it re-opened after the war, Vionnet was forced to close her house in 1939 and retired in 1940. Born on 22 June 1876 into a family in Chilleurs-aux-Bois. Having already left school, Vionnet began her apprenticeship at age twelve as a seamstress alongside members of the garde champêtre. After a brief marriage at age 18 – and the loss of her young child – she left her husband, while in London, Vionnet worked as a fitter for Kate Reily. Vionnet eventually returned to Paris, working for six years in the fashion house Callot Soeurs as a toile maker, after a disagreement with a manager of the house, Vionnet threatened to leave her post. She was convinced to stay by the eldest of the Callot sisters, Vionnet later praised Marie Callot Gerber as a great lady and later remarked that without the example of the Callot Soeurs, I would have continued to make Fords. It is because of them that I have been able to make Rolls Royces and her desire for simplicity was ultimately at odds with the characteristic lacy frills of the fashion house. Vionnet designed for Jacques Doucet between 1907 and 1911, but her use of models and design of loose robes clashed with the style of the house. In 1912 she founded her own house, Vionnet, which closed in 1914 owing to the beginning of the First World War. Re-establishing the house in 1923, Vionnet opened new premises on Avenue Montaigne, in 1925, Vionnets fashion house expanded with premises on Fifth Avenue in New York City. She sold designs purchased off the peg and adapted to the wearer, Vionnets vision of the female form revolutionized modern clothing, and the success of her unique cuts assured her reputation. She fought for laws in fashion. She instituted what, at the time, were considered revolutionary labor practices, paid holidays and maternity leave, day-care, a hall. The onset of World War II forced Vionnet to close her house in 1939. Vionnet created some 12,000 garments over the course of her career, there is something superficial and volatile about the seasonal and elusive whims of fashion which offends my sense of beauty. Vionnet was not concerned with being the designer of the moment, alongside Coco Chanel, Vionnet is credited with a move away from stiff, formalised clothing to sleeker, softer clothes
13.
Swimsuit
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Swimwear is clothing designed to be worn by people engaging in a water-based activity or water sports, such as swimming, diving and surfing, or sun-orientated activities, such as sun bathing. Different types may be worn by men, women, and children, a swimsuit can be worn as an undergarment in sports that require a wetsuit such as water skiing, scuba diving, surfing, and wakeboarding. There is a wide range of styles of modern swimsuits available. The choice of style may depend on community standards of modesty, as well as current fashions, the choice will also consider the occasion, for example whether it is to be worn for a passive occasion such as sunbathing or for an activity such as surfing or competition. Swimwear for men usually exposes the chest, while suits for women usually cover at least the breasts, rayon was used in the 1920s in the manufacture of tight-fitting swimsuits, but its durability, especially when wet, proved problematic, with jersey and silk also sometimes being used. In the 1930s, new materials were being developed and use in swimwear, particularly latex and nylon, while they go through many trends in pattern, length and cut there is not much modification to the original variety of suit. A recent innovation is the burqini, favored by some Muslim women and these are an updated version of full-body swimwear, which has been available for centuries, but conforms with Islams traditional emphasis on modest dress. In Egypt, the term Sharia swimsuit is used to describe full-body swimwear, swimsuits can be skin-tight or loose-fitting. They are often lined with another layer of fabric if the fabric becomes transparent when wet. Swimsuits range from designs that almost completely cover the body to designs that expose almost all of the body, the choice of swimsuit will depend on personal and community standards of modesty and on considerations such as how much or how little sun protection is desired, and prevailing fashions. Almost all swimsuits cover the genitals and pubic hair, while most except thongs or G-string cover much or all of the buttocks, most swimsuits in western culture leave at least the head, shoulders, arms, and lower part of the leg exposed. Womens swimsuits generally cover at least the aereola and bottom half of the breasts, in many countries, young girls and sometimes women choose not to wear a swimsuit top, and this can vary with the occasion, location, age, etc. Both men and women may sometimes wear swimsuits covering more of the body when swimming in cold water, in colder temperatures, the swimwear is needed to conserve body heat and protect the body core from hypothermia. Competitive swimwear generally refers to the swimsuit, clothing, equipment and accessories used in the sports of swimming, diving, synchronized swimming, triathlon. Some swimsuits are designed specifically for swimming competitions where they may be constructed of a low resistance fabric that reduces skin drag. For some kinds of swimming and diving, special bodysuits called diveskins are worn and these suits are made from spandex and provide little thermal protection, but they do protect the skin from stings and abrasion. Most competitive swimmers also wear special swimsuits including partial bodysuits, racerback styles, jammers, unlike regular swimsuits, which are designed mainly for the aesthetic appearances, swimsuits designed to be worn during competitions are manufactured to assist the athlete in swim competitions. They reduce friction and drag in the water, increasing the efficiency of the forward motion
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Halterneck
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Halterneck is a style of womens clothing strap that runs from the front of the garment around the back of the neck, and leaving most of the back uncovered. The name comes from livestock halters, the halter style is used with swimsuits, to maximize sun tan exposure on the back and minimize tan lines. It is also used with dresses or shirts, to create a dress or top. The neck strap can itself be covered by the wearers hair, if a bra is worn with a halter top, it is generally either strapless or of halterneck construction itself, so as to avoid exposing the back straps of a typical bra. A halter top is a type of sleeveless shirt similar to a tank top, in another style of the halter top, there is only a narrow strap behind the neck and a narrow strap behind the middle of the back, so that it is mostly backless. This design resembles many bikini tops, although it covers the chest more, décolletage Spaghetti strap Dudou and Yếm, traditional East Asian undershirts incorporating a halterneck
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Cheerleading
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Cheerleading ranges from chanting, to intense physical activity for sports team motivation, audience entertainment, or competition based upon organized routines. Competitive routines typically range anywhere from one to three minutes, and contain components of tumbling, dance, jumps, cheers, and stunting, Cheerleading originated in the United States, and remains predominantly in America, with an estimated 1.5 million participants in all-star cheerleading. The global presentation of cheerleading was led by the 1997 broadcast of ESPNs International cheerleading competition, Cheerleading began during the late 18th century with the rebellion of male students. After the American Revolutionary War, students experienced harsh treatment from teachers, in response to facultys abuse, college students violently acted out. The undergraduates began to riot, burn down buildings located on their college campuses, as a more subtle way to gain independence, however, students invented and organized their own extracurricular activities outside their professors control. This brought about American sports, beginning first with collegiate teams, in the 1860s, students from Great Britain began to cheer and chant in unison for their favorite athletes at sporting events. Soon, that gesture of support crossed overseas to America, on November 6,1869, the United States witnessed its first intercollegiate football game. It took place between Princeton and Rutgers University, and marked the day the original Sis Boom Rah. cheer was shouted out by student fans, organized cheerleading started as an all-male activity. As early as 1877, Princeton University had a Princeton Cheer, documented in the February 22,1877, March 12,1880 and this cheer was yelled from the stands by students attending games, as well as by the athletes themselves. Remains in use with modifications today, where it is now referred to as the Locomotive. Princeton class of 1882 graduate Thomas Peebles moved to Minnesota in 1884 and he transplanted the idea of organized crowds cheering at football games to the University of Minnesota. These students would cheer for the team also at football practices and it was not until 1898 that University of Minnesota student Johnny Campbell directed a crowd in cheering Rah, Rah, Rah. Making Campbell the very first cheerleader, November 2,1898 is the official birth date of organized cheerleading. Soon after, the University of Minnesota organized a yell leader squad of six male students, in 1903, the first cheerleading fraternity, Gamma Sigma, was founded. In 1923, at the University of Minnesota, women were permitted to participate in cheerleading, however, it took time for other schools to follow. In the late 1920s, many school manuals and newspapers that were published still referred to cheerleaders as chap, fellow, women cheerleaders were overlooked until the 1940s. In the 1940s, collegiate men were drafted for World War II, as noted by Kieran Scott in Ultimate Cheerleading, Girls really took over for the first time. During the 1950s, cheerleading in America also increased in popularity, by the 1960s, some began to consider cheerleading a feminine extracurricular for boys, and by the 1970s, girls primarily cheered at public school games
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Dallas Cowboys Cheerleaders
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The Dallas Cowboys Cheerleaders is the National Football League cheerleading squad representing the Dallas Cowboys. The Dallas Cowboys Cheerleaders are widely regarded as one of the best cheerleading squads in the NFL, the original cheerleading squad was made up of a male-female group called the CowBelles & Beaux. The group made its sidelines debut in 1960 during the Cowboys inaugural season, local high school students made up the squad, which was typical of high school and college cheerleading squads throughout the 1960s, rarely getting much attention. She became an instant public sensation in Dallas, also gaining attention from Cowboys General Manager Tex Schramm, understanding the importance of the entertainment industry to the Cowboys profitability, Schramm was inspired to form a cheerleading squad dressed in similar fashion to Cash. By 1969, it was decided that the cheerleading squad needed this new image, the male cheerleaders were dropped from the squad, and an all-female squad from local high school cheerleading squads in the Dallas-Fort Worth area was selected. From that point on, the CowBelles & Beaux became the Dallas Cowboys Cheerleaders, preparing for the 1970 season, Schramm decided to change the Cheerleaders image to boost attendance. In 1971, the rules changed to allow not only local female cheerleaders to compete for a spot on the squad. Since the 1972 squad consisted of adults, this allowed the possibility of redesigning the uniforms to introduce a more revealing look. This modified squad first appeared on the sidelines during the Cowboys 1972 season, even greater national attention came in the fall of 1977 when the Cowboys, along with designer and photographer Bob Shaw, produced the first NFL cheerleader poster for the Dallas Cowboys. This, and an Esquire magazine article by Shaw in October 1977, also that year, the DCC produced their own one-hour special, The 36 Most Beautiful Girls in Texas, which aired on ABC prior to the season opener of Monday Night Football. On January 14,1979, the made-for-TV movie The Dallas Cowboys Cheerleaders aired, starring Bert Convy and Jane Seymour, it had a 48% share of the national television audience. On January 13,1980, a sequel to the original TV movie, The Dallas Cowboys Cheerleaders II, aired. The Cheerleaders have made many other TV appearances since then, and their likeness has been featured on merchandise, such as posters, T-shirts, trading cards. The DCC has also toured throughout the United States, as well as overseas, included in these tours are regular appearances in United Service Organizations tours, which began during the 1979 holiday season for U. S. troops stationed in South Korea. The DCC releases several calendars every year, more recently, in addition to their annual swimsuit calendar, they also release an annual sideline calendar, featuring photos of the DCC cheering and performing at Cowboys home games. The DCC held a ceremony inaugurating the second game of the 1994 FIFA World Cup between Spain and South Korea, former DCCs Kelli McGonagill Finglass and Judy Trammell are the squads director and choreographer, respectively. Since 2006, the Cheerleaders have produced their own reality series, Dallas Cowboys Cheerleaders, Making the Team. The series follows the process of the annual squad
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Low-rise (fashion)
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Low-rise is a style of clothing designed to sit low on, or below, the hips. The style can also be called lowcut, hipster, or hip-hugger. the term can be applied to all garments that cover the wearers crotch area, including trousers, jeans, shorts, skirts, panties, briefs, bikinis, pantyhose, and tights. The rise of a garment is measured by the distance between the crotch and the waistline or top of the garment and is usually around 12 inches on regular pants. The average rise of a garment is roughly 8 inches with some as little as 3 to 4 inches. A normal low-rise sits at least 2 to 3 inches below the navel, a super or an ultra low-rise sits at 4 to 5 inches below the navel. The low-rise fashion expanded in the early 1990s after the March 1993 issue of the British magazine The Face which featured Kate Moss in low-rise jeans. Clothing manufacturer Levi Strauss & Co. introduced low-rise jeans in December 2000, backs were also cut low, but not so low that they exposed backside cleavage. It later adopted the style in mens wear, gradually the wide acceptance of low-rise pants by men led to low-rise swimwear and briefs. The trend became so popular that in 2002, a Barbie doll wearing low-rise jeans named My Scene Barbie was introduced in stores, the term is applied to saris and Ghagra cholis in India. Due to migration to different countries, many Indian women began to wear the normal sari below the waistline exposing the navel which is known as Low-rise sari. These type of saris are worn such that the petticoat is tied at some inches below the navel, similarly, the lehengas of ghagra cholis are also worn in low-rise. Designer Manish Malhotras Fashion Week collections regularly highlight low waisted ghaghras accompanied by short cholis and this were made popular by the female celebrities of Bollywood industry and other popular regional film industries like Tamil cinema and Telugu cinema. These are mainly worn by the rich, educated women who consider navel exposure as a fashion. However, sometimes, the navel is covered with the pallu in a low-rise non-transparent sari, vitruvio Pollione Scientific High School, Avezzano, central Italy, asked students to stop wearing low-slung trousers that expose navels, underwear etc. Deputy Principal Nazzareno Desiderio elaborated in an interview, Its a piece of advice. Inspired by the decision in Avezzano, the principal of Romes Visconti High School Antonino Grasso had suggested that students show less skin and proposed a debate on the matter. In an interview he commented, Today, boys are less tickled by such visions, because no more big effect in seeing a girls legs or shoulders, lower back. In some corporations in India, saris are required to be worn in an elegant manner avoiding navel exposure, anita Gupta, Senior Vice-President at JWT Chennai commented, Formal wear for women definitely covers saris without plunging necklines or glimpses of the belly button
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The Face (magazine)
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The Face was a British music, fashion and culture monthly magazine started in May 1980 by Nick Logan. The magazine was based in London, Logan had previously created the teen pop magazine Smash Hits, and had been an editor at the New Musical Express in the 1970s before launching The Face in 1980. The magazine was influential in showcasing a number of fashion, music, and style trends of youth culture including New Romantic, from 1981 to 1986, Neville Brody was typographer, graphic designer, and art director of the magazine. In 1992, the magazine ran an article which contained a reference to the sexual orientation of the Australian actor. Donovan sued the magazine for libel in 1992 and won the case, subsequently, the magazine requested donations from readers to pay the substantial libel damages and court costs which came to £300,000. The magazine set up the Lemon Aid fund—supposedly so-called because the article on Donovan had stated that he treated his hair with lemon juice to make it blonder. Donovan reached a settlement with the magazine which allowed it to stay in business and its best selling period was in the mid-1990s, when editor Richard Benson brought in a team that included art director Lee Swillingham. In 1999, Wagadon was sold the title to the publishing company EMAP, by the time of its May 2004 closure, monthly sales had declined and advertising revenues had consequently reduced. Publishers EMAP closed the title to concentrate resources on its more successful magazines, in an ironic twist, Jason Donovan led a consortium that made an abortive approach to EMAP to save the title prior to its closure. In 2011 The Face was added to the permanent collection of the Design Museum, London, and featured in the Postmodernism exhibition, thames & Hudson is to publish a history of The Face 1980-1999 by Paul Gorman in 2015. and the Next Mags Facing the Chop Are
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Kate Moss
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Kate Moss is an English model. Born in Croydon, Surrey, she was discovered in 1988 at age 14 by Sarah Doukas, founder of Storm Model Management, arriving at the end of the supermodel era, Moss rose to fame in the early 1990s as part of the heroin chic fashion trend. Her collaborations with Calvin Klein brought her to fashion icon status and she is known for her waifish figure, and role in size zero fashion. She received an award at the 2013 British Fashion Awards to acknowledge her contribution to fashion over 25 years, Moss is also a contributing fashion editor for British Vogue. Moss has had her own clothing range and has involved in musical projects. She has won accolades for modelling, in 2007, TIME named her one of the worlds 100 most influential people. She has inspired cultural depictions including a £1. 5m 18 carat gold statue of her and she began dating Jefferson Hack in the early 2000s and they have a daughter. She later dated musician Pete Doherty and she is married to Jamie Hince, guitarist for the Kills. She received media scrutiny for her party lifestyle and drug use, drug allegations beginning in late 2005 led to her being dropped from fashion campaigns. She was cleared of charges and resumed modelling, in 2012, she came second on the Forbes top-earning models list, with estimated earnings of $9.2 million in one year. Moss was born in Croydon, Greater London, the daughter of Linda Rosina, a barmaid, and Peter Edward Moss, an airline employee and she has a younger brother, Nick, and a half-sister named Lottie. Mosss parents divorced when she was 13 and she attended Ridgeway Primary School and Riddlesdown Collegiate, formerly known as Riddlesdown High School, in Purley. Moss was discovered in 1988 at 14 by Sarah Doukas, founder of Storm Model Management, at JFK Airport in New York, after a holiday in the Bahamas. Corinne Day shot black-and-white photographs of her, styled by Melanie Ward, for The Face when she was 16, Day discovered Moss when she was a young and unknown and described the pictures as dirty realism or grunge. Moss then featured in the Levis campaign Levis for Girls, with success, set up by The Design Corporation. Moss featured in the fashion look heroin chic in 1996 with a campaign for Calvin Klein, bill Clinton spoke out against the trend. Moss said, It was just the time and it was a swing from more buxom girls like Cindy Crawford and people were shocked to see what they called a waif. How many times can you say Im not anorexic, on 20 September 2005, the Swedish fashion retailer H&M dropped her from its campaign of autumn clothes designed by Stella McCartney because of drug allegations
