1.
University of Wales, Lampeter
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University of Wales, Lampeter was a university in Lampeter, Wales. In 2010 it merged with Trinity University College to create the University of Wales Trinity Saint David, the university was founded as St Davids College, becoming St Davids University College in 1971, when it became part of the federal University of Wales. With fewer than 2,000 students on campus, it was claimed to be one of the smallest public universities in Europe. When Thomas Burgess was appointed Bishop of St Davids in 1803, the existing colleges at Oxford and Cambridge were out of the geographical and financial means of most would-be students. This is the site on which the present University stands, St Davids College was thus founded just outside Lampeter in 1822. Burgess left St. Davids in 1825 to become Bishop of Salisbury but work on the college continued, the £16,000 required to erect the college had been raised from public donations, a government grant and highly publicised gifts, including one from King George IV. The main college building was completed in 1827 and the college opened on St. Davids Day of that year. As such, after the ancient universities of Oxford and Cambridge, although it continued as a centre of clergy training until 1978, there was always a proportion of students who did not intend to be ordained. Throughout the colleges history, non-ordinands had been in a minority, in the 1950s however, the number of ordinands declined sharply and the College faced possible closure unless it could secure government funding. Principal J. R. Lloyd Thomas did not spare himself in the fight for survival and, in 1960, after negotiation, University College, Cardiff. Thus the government finally began to assist SDC financially, in 1971, the college became a member of the federal University of Wales and suspended its own degree-awarding powers. It became St Davids University College, by this time, the college had begun shifting its specialisms and, whilst theology continued to be a strong point, students could choose from a much wider range of liberal arts subjects. In September 2007, the University of Wales become confederal rather than federal in nature, unlike other former Wales colleges however, the institutions name remained unchanged. The university specialised in Theology, Religious Studies, Philosophy, Classics, Anthropology, Archaeology, English, however, in the last two decades several other departments which taught subjects in their own right closed, notably French, German and Geography. In the early 1990s, there existed an influential Human Geography department at the college. This was closed in 2001 but the diaspora of the Lampeter Geography School continue to have an influence on their field, further to this assessment, the Higher Education Funding Council for Wales commissioned a further report which found very real problems of leadership and management at the university. As a direct result, on 14 December 2008, the university announced that it was in talks with Trinity College. C. R. Cockerell designed the college, now called the Saint Davids Building in the centre of the Campus
2.
Cologne
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Cologne is the largest city in the German federal State of North Rhine-Westphalia and the fourth-largest city in Germany. It is located within the Rhine-Ruhr metropolitan region, one of the major European metropolitan areas, and with more than ten million inhabitants, Cologne is located on both sides of the Rhine River, less than eighty kilometres from Belgium. The citys famous Cologne Cathedral is the seat of the Catholic Archbishop of Cologne, the University of Cologne is one of Europes oldest and largest universities. Cologne was founded and established in Ubii territory in the first century AD as the Roman Colonia Claudia Ara Agrippinensium, Cologne, the French version of the citys name, has become standard in English as well. The city functioned as the capital of the Roman province of Germania Inferior, during the Middle Ages it flourished on one of the most important major trade routes between east and west in Europe. Cologne was one of the members of the Hanseatic League and one of the largest cities north of the Alps in medieval. Up until World War II the city had several occupations by the French. Cologne was one of the most heavily bombed cities in Germany during World War II, the bombing reduced the population by 95%, mainly due to evacuation, and destroyed almost the entire city. With the intention of restoring as many buildings as possible. Cologne is a cultural centre for the Rhineland, it hosts more than thirty museums. Exhibitions range from local ancient Roman archeological sites to contemporary graphics, the Cologne Trade Fair hosts a number of trade shows such as Art Cologne, imm Cologne, Gamescom, and the Photokina. The first urban settlement on the grounds of modern-day Cologne was Oppidum Ubiorum, founded in 38 BC by the Ubii, in 50 AD, the Romans founded Colonia on the Rhine and the city became the provincial capital of Germania Inferior in 85 AD. The city was named Colonia Claudia Ara Agrippinensium in 50 AD, considerable Roman remains can be found in present-day Cologne, especially near the wharf area, where a notable discovery of a 1900-year-old Roman boat was made in late 2007. From 260 to 271 Cologne was the capital of the Gallic Empire under Postumus, Marius, in 310 under Constantine a bridge was built over the Rhine at Cologne. Roman imperial governors resided in the city and it one of the most important trade. Cologne is shown on the 4th century Peutinger Map, maternus, who was elected as bishop in 313, was the first known bishop of Cologne. The city was the capital of a Roman province until occupied by the Ripuarian Franks in 462, parts of the original Roman sewers are preserved underneath the city, with the new sewerage system having opened in 1890. Early medieval Cologne was part of Austrasia within the Frankish Empire, Cologne had been the seat of a bishop since the Roman period, under Charlemagne, in 795, bishop Hildebold was promoted to archbishop
3.
Nazi Germany
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Nazi Germany is the common English name for the period in German history from 1933 to 1945, when Germany was governed by a dictatorship under the control of Adolf Hitler and the Nazi Party. Under Hitlers rule, Germany was transformed into a fascist state in which the Nazi Party took totalitarian control over all aspects of life. The official name of the state was Deutsches Reich from 1933 to 1943, the period is also known under the names the Third Reich and the National Socialist Period. The Nazi regime came to an end after the Allied Powers defeated Germany in May 1945, Hitler was appointed Chancellor of Germany by the President of the Weimar Republic Paul von Hindenburg on 30 January 1933. The Nazi Party then began to eliminate all opposition and consolidate its power. Hindenburg died on 2 August 1934, and Hitler became dictator of Germany by merging the powers and offices of the Chancellery, a national referendum held 19 August 1934 confirmed Hitler as sole Führer of Germany. All power was centralised in Hitlers person, and his word became above all laws, the government was not a coordinated, co-operating body, but a collection of factions struggling for power and Hitlers favour. In the midst of the Great Depression, the Nazis restored economic stability and ended mass unemployment using heavy military spending, extensive public works were undertaken, including the construction of Autobahnen. The return to economic stability boosted the regimes popularity, racism, especially antisemitism, was a central feature of the regime. The Germanic peoples were considered by the Nazis to be the purest branch of the Aryan race, millions of Jews and other peoples deemed undesirable by the state were murdered in the Holocaust. Opposition to Hitlers rule was ruthlessly suppressed, members of the liberal, socialist, and communist opposition were killed, imprisoned, or exiled. The Christian churches were also oppressed, with many leaders imprisoned, education focused on racial biology, population policy, and fitness for military service. Career and educational opportunities for women were curtailed, recreation and tourism were organised via the Strength Through Joy program, and the 1936 Summer Olympics showcased the Third Reich on the international stage. Propaganda minister Joseph Goebbels made effective use of film, mass rallies, the government controlled artistic expression, promoting specific art forms and banning or discouraging others. Beginning in the late 1930s, Nazi Germany made increasingly aggressive territorial demands and it seized Austria and Czechoslovakia in 1938 and 1939. Hitler made a pact with Joseph Stalin and invaded Poland in September 1939. In alliance with Italy and smaller Axis powers, Germany conquered most of Europe by 1940, reichskommissariats took control of conquered areas, and a German administration was established in what was left of Poland. Jews and others deemed undesirable were imprisoned, murdered in Nazi concentration camps and extermination camps, following the German invasion of the Soviet Union in 1941, the tide gradually turned against the Nazis, who suffered major military defeats in 1943
4.
Ibiza
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Ibiza is an island in the Mediterranean Sea off the east coast of Spain. It is 150 kilometres from the city of Valencia and it is the third largest of the Balearic Islands, an autonomous community of Spain. Its largest settlements are Ibiza Town, Santa Eulària des Riu and its highest point, called Sa Talaiassa, is 475 metres above sea level. The islands government and the Spanish Tourist Office have been working to promote more family-oriented tourism, the port in Ibiza Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Ibiza and the island of Formentera to its south are called the Pine Islands. The official name of the island is in Catalan Eivissa and its name in Spanish is Ibiza. In British English, the name is pronounced in an approximation of the Spanish /ɪˈbiːθə/, whereas in American English the pronunciation is more anglicized. Phoenician colonists called the island Ibossim and it was later known to Romans as Ebusus. The Greeks called the two islands of Ibiza and Formentera the Pityûssai, in the 18th and 19th centuries the island was known to the British, and especially to the Royal Navy, as Ivica. In 654 BC, Phoenician settlers founded a port on Ibiza, with the decline of Phoenicia after the Assyrian invasions, Ibiza came under the control of Carthage, also a former Phoenician colony. The island produced dye, salt, fish sauce, and wool, a shrine with offerings to the goddess Tanit was established in the cave at Es Cuieram, and the rest of the Balearic Islands entered Eivissas commercial orbit after 400 BC. Ibiza was a trading post along the Mediterranean routes. During the Second Punic War, the island was assaulted by the two Scipio brothers in 209 BC but remained loyal to Carthage. With the Carthaginian military failing on the Iberian mainland, Ibiza was last used by the fleeing Carthaginian General Mago to gather supplies and men before sailing to Minorca, for this reason, Ibiza today contains excellent examples of late Carthaginian-Punic civilization. During the Roman Empire, the became a quiet imperial outpost. Ibiza together with the islands of Formentera and Minorca were invaded by the Norwegian King Sigurd I of Norway in the spring of 1110 on his crusade to Jerusalem. The king had previously conquered the cities of Sintra, Lisbon, King Sigurd continued to Sicily where he visited King Roger II of Sicily. The island was conquered by Aragonese King James I in 1235, the local Muslim population got deported as was the case with neighboring Majorca and elsewhere, and Christians arrived from Girona
5.
Gothic rock
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Gothic rock is a musical subgenre of post-punk that formed during the late 1970s. Gothic rock bands grew from the ties they had to the English punk rock. Proto-gothic bands include Siouxsie and the Banshees, Joy Division, Bauhaus, the genre itself was defined as a separate movement from post-punk due to its darker music accompanied by introspective and romantic lyrics. Gothic rock then gave rise to a subculture that included clubs, fashion. Reynolds described the style as consisting of deep, droning alloys of Jim Morrison. Siouxsie and the Banshees tended to use flanging guitar effects, producing a brittle, cold, several acts used drum machines downplaying the rhythms backbeat. Gothic rock typically deals with dark themes addressed through lyrics and the musics atmosphere, the poetic sensibilities of the genre led gothic rock lyrics to exhibit literary romanticism, morbidity, existentialism, religious symbolism or supernatural mysticism. Musicians who initially shaped the aesthetics and musical conventions of gothic rock include Marc Bolan, the Velvet Underground, the Doors, David Bowie, Iggy Pop, journalist Kurt Loder would write that the song All Tomorrows Parties by the Velvet Underground is a mesmerizing gothic-rock masterpiece. However, Reynolds considers Alice Cooper as the true ungodly godfather of goth due to his theatrics, Nicos 1969 album The Marble Index is sometimes described as the first Goth album. With its stark sound, somber lyrics, and Nicos deliberate change in her look, J. G. Ballard was a strong lyrical influence for many of the early gothic rock groups, the Birthday Party drew on Arthur Rimbaud and Charles Baudelaire. In 1976, Interview with the Vampire by Anne Rice was published, the main character, although dark, wanted companionship and love. The book, according to music journalist Dave Thompson, slowly created an audience for gothic rock by word of mouth, the same year saw the punk rock band the Damned debut. The groups vocalist, Dave Vanian, was a gravedigger who dressed like a vampire. Critic John Stickney used the gothic rock to describe the music of the Doors in October 1967. Stickney wrote that the band met the journalists in the gloomy vaulted wine cellar of the Delmonico hotel, the author noted that contrary to the pleasant, amusing hippies, there was violence in their music and a dark atmosphere on stage during their concerts. In the late 1970s, the gothic was used to describe the atmosphere of post-punk bands like Siouxsie. In March 1979, Kent used the adjective in his review of Magazines second album. Kent noted that there was a new sense of authority to their music
6.
Art rock
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Art rock is a subgenre of rock music that generally reflects a challenging or avant-garde approach to rock, or which makes use of modernist, experimental, or unconventional elements. Art rock aspires to elevate rock from teen entertainment to an artistic statement, influences may be drawn from genres such as experimental rock, avant-garde music, classical music, and jazz. The genres greatest level of popularity was in the early 1970s through British artists, art rock is most associated with a certain period of rock music, beginning in 1966–67 and ending with the arrival of punk in the mid 1970s. After, the genre would be infused within later popular music genres of the 1970s–90s, in the rock music of the 1970s, the art descriptor was generally understood to mean aggressively avant-garde or pretentiously progressive. Art rock is used synonymously with progressive rock. Historically, the term has been used to describe at least two related, but distinct, types of rock music, art rock emphasizes Romantic and autonomous traditions, in distinction to the aesthetic of the everyday and the disposable embodied by art pop. Common characteristics include album-oriented music divided into compositions rather than songs, with complicated and long instrumental sections. Its music was used within the context of concept records. Compared to progressive rock, art rock is more challenging, noisy and unconventional and less classically influenced, art rock can also to refer to either classically driven rock, or a progressive rock-folk fusion. S. Eliot than to Carl Perkins or Willie Dixon, the boundaries between art and pop music became increasingly blurred throughout the second half of the 20th century. The first usage of the art rock, according to Merriam-Webster Online Dictionary, was in 1968. As pop musics dominant format transitioned from singles to albums, many rock bands created works that aspired to make grand artistic statements, as it progressed in the late 1960s – in tandem with the development of progressive rock – art rock acquired notoriety alongside experimental rock. According to biographer Richard Williams, created a new concept, the producer as overall director of the creative process, Spector transformed rock music as a performing art to an art which could only exist in the recording studio, which paved the way for art rock. The Beach Boys leader Brian Wilson is also cited as one of the first examples of the music producer. Like Spector, Wilson was known as an eremitic studio obsessive who laboriously produced fantastical soundscapes through his mastery of recording technology. Biographer Peter Ames Carlin wrote that Wilson was the forerunner of a new kind of art-rock that would combine the transcendent possibilities of art with the accessibility of pop music. According to journalist Richard Goldstein, many musicians from California desired to be acknowledged as artists. They yearned for fame, as only needy people can, but they wanted to make art
7.
Folk rock
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It has also been influential in those parts of the world with close cultural connections to Britain and gave rise to the genre of folk punk. By the 1980s the genre was in decline in popularity. When English bands of the late 1960s and early 1970s defined themselves as electric folk they were making a distinction with the existing folk rock. Folk rock was what they had already been producing, American or American style singer-songwriter material played on instruments, as undertaken by Bob Dylan. They drew the distinction because they were focusing on indigenous songs, the result of this hybridisation was an exchange of specific features drawn from Traditional music and Rock music. For example, electric folk groups, while using traditional material as their source for lyrics and tunes. In the same year, The Beatles began incorporating overt folk influences into their music, the Beatles and other British Invasion bands, in turn, influenced the Californian band The Byrds, who began playing folk-influenced material and Bob Dylan compositions with rock instrumentation. The Byrds recording of Dylans Mr Tambourine Man was released in April 1965 and reached #1 on the U. S. and UK singles charts, setting off the mid-1960s folk rock movement. The Beatles late 1965 album, Rubber Soul, contained a number of songs clearly influenced by the American folk rock boom, such as Nowhere Man and If I Needed Someone. Folk rock became an important genre among emerging English bands, particularly those in the London club scene towards the end of the 1960s. Like the American revival, it was often overtly left wing in its politics, most important among their responses were the foundation of folk clubs in major towns, starting with London where MacColl began the Ballads and Blues Club in 1953. These clubs were usually urban in location, but the songs sung in them often hearkened back to a rural pre-industrial past, in many ways this was the adoption of abandoned popular music by the middle classes. This meant that there were, by the later 1960s, a group of performers with musical skill and knowledge of a variety of traditional songs. The result was an interpretation of the song A Sailors Life. The rapid expansion of electric folk that followed in the wake of Liege, five Hand Reel a band formed out of the remnants of Spencers Feat proved to be one of the more successful and influential folk rock bands. Releasing 4 albums with Topic/RCA records they were popular in Europe. He then quit that and eventually formed the Albion Country Band, later the Albion Band, a much smaller group of English bands were formed in emulation of existing electric rock bands. Fiddlers Dram were often dismissed as one hit wonders for their single Day Trip to Bangor, most of their career, from that point until they disbanded in 1979, was one of declining profile and sales
8.
Pump organ
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The pump organ, reed organ, harmonium, or melodeon is a type of free-reed organ that generates sound as air flows past a vibrating piece of thin metal in a frame. The piece of metal is called a reed, the finer instruments have a unique tone, and the cabinets of those intended for churches and affluent homes were often excellent pieces of furniture. Several million free-reed organs and melodeons were made in the USA, during this time Estey Organ and Mason & Hamlin were popular manufacturers. The harmoniums design incorporates free reeds and derives from the earlier regal, a harmonium-like instrument was exhibited by Gabriel Joseph Grenié in 1810. He called it an orgue expressif, because his instrument was capable of greater expression, alexandre Debain improved Greniés instrument and gave it the name harmonium when he patented his version in 1840. There was concurrent development of similar instruments, beginning in 1885, the firm of Mason & Hamlin, of Boston made their instruments with the suction bellows, and this method of construction soon superseded all others in America. Harmoniums reached the height of their popularity in the West in the late 19th, an added attraction of the harmonium in tropical regions was that the instrument held its tune regardless of heat and humidity, unlike the piano. This export market was lucrative for manufacturers to produce harmoniums with cases impregnated with chemicals to prevent woodworm. At the peak of the instruments Western popularity around 1900, a variety of styles of harmoniums were being produced. These ranged from simple models with plain cases and only four or five stops, up to large instruments with ornate cases, up to a dozen stops, expensive harmoniums were often built to resemble pipe organs, with ranks of fake pipes attached to the top of the instrument. Small numbers of harmoniums were built with two manuals, some were even built with pedal keyboards, which required the use of an assistant to run the bellows or, for some of the later models, an electrical pump. The invention of the organ in the mid-1930s spelled the end of the harmoniums success in the West. By this time, harmoniums had reached high levels of complexity, not only through the need to provide instruments with a greater tonal range. The last mass-producer of harmoniums in North America was the Estey company, which ceased manufacture in the mid-1950s, as the existing stock of instruments aged and spare parts became hard to find, more and more were either scrapped or sold. It was not uncommon for harmoniums to be modernised by having electric blowers fitted, the majority of Western harmoniums today are in the hands of enthusiasts, though the instrument remains popular in South Asia. Modern electronic keyboards can emulate the sound of the pump organ, the acoustical effects described below are a result of the free-reed mechanism. Therefore, they are identical for the Western and Indian harmoniums. And as its vibrators also admit of a delicate and durable tuning and this arrangement was difficult to play on
9.
Tambourine
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The tambourine is a musical instrument in the percussion family consisting of a frame, often of wood or plastic, with pairs of small metal jingles, called zils. Classically the term denotes an instrument with a drumhead, though some variants may not have a head at all. Tambourines are often used with regular percussion sets and they can be mounted, for example on a stand as part of a drum kit, or they can be held in the hands and played by tapping or hitting the instrument. Tambourines come in shapes with the most common being circular. It is found in forms of music, Turkish folk music, Greek folk music, Italian folk music, classical music, Persian music, samba, gospel music, pop music. Tambourines originated in Egypt, where they were known as the kof to the Hebrews, from the Middle Persian word tambūr lute, drum. There are several ways to achieve a tambourine roll, the easiest method is to rapidly rotate the hand holding the tambourine back and forth, pivoting at the wrist. An advanced playing technique is known as the thumb roll, the finger or thumb is moved over the skin or rim of the tambourine, producing a fast roll from the jingles on the instrument. This takes more skill and experience to master, the thumb or middle finger of the hand not holding the tambourine is run around the head of the instrument approximately one centimeter from the rim with some pressure applied. If performed correctly, the thumb should bounce along the head rapidly, usually, the end of the roll is articulated using the heel of the hand or another finger. In the 2000s, the roll may be performed with the use of wax or resin applied to the outside of the drum head. This resin allows the thumb or finger to bounce more rapidly and forcefully across the head producing an even sound, a continuous roll can be achieved by moving the thumb in a figure of 8 pattern around the head. By drummers – Drummers such as Larry Mullen, Jr. of U2 mount a tambourine above the cymbals of their hi-hat stand, tambourines in rock music are most often headless, a ring with jangles but no drum skin. The Rhythm Tech crescent-shaped tambourine and its derivatives are popular, the original Rhythm Tech tambourine is displayed in the Museum of Modern Art. Jack Ashfords distinctive tambourine playing was a dominant part of the section on Motown records. The tambourine was featured in Green Tambourine, a song with which The Lemon Pipers. Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was among the earliest western composers to include the tambourine in his compositions, gustav Holsts seven-movement orchestral suite The Planets also features the tambourine in several places throughout the suite, especially in the Jupiter movement. Originated in Galicia or Portugal, the pandeiro was brought to Brazil by the Portuguese settlers and it is a hand percussion instrument consisting of a single tension-headed drum with jingles in the frame
10.
Verve Records
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Verve Records is an American record company operating under the newly-founded Verve Label Group distributed by Interscope Geffen A&M Records. It was founded in 1956 by Norman Granz and it absorbed the catalogues of his earlier labels, Clef Records and Norgran Records, and material previously licensed to Mercury Records. It has been under ownership of Universal Music Group and has expanded to scope newer artists. Norman Granz created Verve to produce new recordings by Ella Fitzgerald, whom he managed, the catalog grew throughout the 1950s and 1960s to include Charlie Parker, Bill Evans, Stan Getz, Billie Holiday, Oscar Peterson, Ben Webster, and Lester Young. Milton Rudin, his attorney, represented Frank Sinatra and knew that Sinatra wanted his own label, Sinatra and Granz made a handshake deal, but negotiations broke down over price and Sinatras desire that Granz remain head of the label. Granz sold Verve to MGM in 1961, Sinatra established Reprise Records and hired Mo Ostin, an executive at Verve, to run it. At Verve, Creed Taylor was made head producer, Taylor adopted a more commercial approach, canceling several contracts. He brought bossa nova to America with the release of Jazz Samba by Stan Getz and Charlie Byrd, Getz/Gilberto, Verves notable arrangers included Claus Ogerman and Oliver Nelson. According to Ogerman in Jazzletter, he arranged 60–70 albums for Verve from 1963–1947, in 1964, Taylor supervised the creation of a folk music subsidiary named Verve Folkways, later renamed Verve Forecast. Taylor left Verve in 1967 to form CTI Records, aside from jazz, Verves catalogue included the Righteous Brothers, the Velvet Underground, Frank Zappa & the Mothers of Invention, and the Blues Project. In the 1970s, Verve became part of the PolyGram, incorporating the Mercury/EmArcy jazz catalog, Verve Records became the Verve Music Group after PolyGram was merged with Seagrams Universal Music Group in 1998. The jazz holdings from the companies were folded into this sub-group. When Universal and Polygram merged in 1998, Verves holdings were merged with Universals GRP Recording Company to become Verve Music Group, after forays into Americana and adult contemporary music, Verve was corporately aligned with Universal Music Enterprises, and was no longer a stand-alone label within UMG. The Verve imprint itself manages much of the catalog that once belonged to PolyGram. Meanwhile, GRP manages the rest of MCA/Universals jazz catalog, including releases once issued on the Decca, the Verve Music Group has expanded its output beyond jazz to include crossover classical music, progressive pop and show tunes. Official site Article about Creed Taylor
11.
Elektra Records
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Elektra Records is an American record label owned by Warner Music Group, founded in 1950 by Jac Holzman and Paul Rickolt. It played an important role in the development of folk music. In 2004, it was consolidated into WMGs Atlantic Records Group, after five years of dormancy, the label was revived as an imprint of Atlantic in 2009. The label has been run by Gregg Nadel since 2015 who officially became its president in 2017, Elektra was formed in 1950 by Jac Holzman and Paul Rickolt in Holzmans St. Johns College dorm room. The usual spelling of the Greek mythological Pleiad Electra was changed, Holzman famously explained, I gave her the ‘K’ that I lacked. He found the C in the name too soft but liked the solid bite of the letter K. The first Elektra LP, New Songs, was a collection of Lieder and similar art songs, Holzman also recorded Josh White, who was without a record deal as a result of McCarthyite blacklisting. In 1964, Elektra launched Nonesuch Records and this classical budget label was the best-selling budget classical label of the era. In 1965, Elektra began a joint venture with Survey Music called Bounty Records which was Elektras first foray into pop music. The most notable signing for Bounty was the Paul Butterfield Band who was moved over to Elektra when Bounty folded, the labels most important signings were the Chicago-based Paul Butterfield Blues Band, the Los Angeles bands Love and The Doors, and the Detroit bands The Stooges and MC5. Included in Elektras LA signings were Tim Buckley and Bread, in 1968, the label also signed pioneering rock guitar soloist Lonnie Mack to a three-album deal. Also in 1967, Elektra launched its influential Nonesuch Explorer Series, excerpts from several Nonesuch Explorer recordings were later included on the two Voyager Golden Discs which were sent into deep space in 1977 aboard the Voyager 1 and Voyager 2 space probes. Elektra, along with its Nonesuch Records subsidiary, was acquired by Kinney National Services in 1970, soon afterwards, Kinney consolidated their label holdings under the Warner-Elektra-Atlantic umbrella. Holzman remained in charge of Elektra until 1972, when it merged with Asylum Records to become Elektra/Asylum Records, Asylums founder, David Geffen, would head the newly combined label. Holzman, in the meantime, was appointed vice president and chief technologist for Warner — ushering the company into home video. Holzman also went on to acquire Discovery Records, in 1975, Geffen stepped down due to health problems. He would be replaced by Joe Smith, who went on to become CEO of Capitol Records. Although the company was listed as Elektra/Asylum Records on the label credits
12.
Reprise Records
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Reprise Records /rəˈpriz/ is an American major record label, founded in 1960 by Frank Sinatra. It was mostly inactive from 1976 to 1987 and it is owned by Warner Music Group, and operates through Warner Bros. Reprise Records was formed in 1960 by Frank Sinatra in order to more artistic freedom for his own recordings. Hence, he garnered the nickname The Chairman of the Board, having left Capitol/EMI, and after trying to buy Norman Granzs Verve Records, the first album Sinatra released on Reprise was Ring-a-Ding-Ding. As CEO of Reprise, Sinatra recruited several artists for the label, such as fellow Rat Pack members Dean Martin and Sammy Davis. The original roster from 1961 to 1963 included Bing Crosby, Jo Stafford, Rosemary Clooney, Nancy Sinatra, Esquivel, the label still issues any Sinatra work recorded while on the label and, after his death in 1998, it had great success with his greatest hits collections. One of the founding principles under Sinatras leadership was that each artist would have full creative freedom. This is the reason why recordings of early Reprise artists are distributed through other labels. In Martins case, his Reprise recordings were out of print for nearly 20 years before a deal was struck with Capitol Records, in 1963, as part of a film deal, Warner Bros. purchased Reprise from Sinatra, who nonetheless retained a 20% interest in the label. Many of the artists on the label were dropped by Warner Bros. Reprise president Mo Ostin was retained as the head of the label, warner-Reprise executives began targeting younger acts, beginning by securing the American distribution rights to the Pye Records recordings by the Kinks in 1964. Reprise would soon add teen-oriented pop acts like Dino, Desi & Billy to the roster, as well, Franks own daughter Nancy Sinatra would be retained by Ostin, becoming a major pop star starting in late 1965. The label moved almost exclusively to rock-oriented music in the late 1960s, rex, the Meters, John Cale, Gordon Lightfoot, Michael Franks, Richard Pryor, Al Jarreau, Fleetwood Mac, Fanny, and the Beach Boys. In 1976, the Reprise label was deactivated by Warner Bros. an unconfirmed explanation for this move is that Sinatra wanted to be the only artist on Reprise, and Young is said to have been the only Reprise act who refused to agree to a change in labels. In late 1985, some copies of the Dream Academys hit single Life in a Northern Town were pressed with Warner Bros. labels bearing a Reprise logo,1986 saw releases bearing Reprise labels from the Dream Academy as well as Dwight Yoakam. Vice President of Promotion Rich Fitzgerald was appointed as label Vice-President and it was formerly home to the Jimi Hendrix and the Barenaked Ladies catalogs in the U. S. When the Bee Gees back catalog was remastered by Rhino Records in the 2000s, neil Young stated in a documentary about his life that Marilyn Manson was turned down by Reprise. In September 2011, several took place at Reprise Records
13.
Island Records
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Island Records is a major record label that operates as a division of UMG Recordings, Inc. It was founded by Chris Blackwell, Graeme Goodall and Leslie Kong in Jamaica in 1959, Blackwell sold the label to PolyGram in 1989. Three Island labels exist in the world, Island UK, Island US, and Island Australia, current key people of Island Records include Island president Darcus Beese, OBE and MD Jon Turner. Partially due to the labels significant legacy, Island remains one of UMGs pre-eminent record labels, Island Records was founded in Jamaica on 4 July 1959 by Chris Blackwell, Graeme Goodall and Leslie Kong, and partially financed by Stanley Borden from RKO. Its name was inspired by the Harry Belafonte song Island in the Sun. Blackwell explained in 2009, “I loved music so much, I just wanted to get into it, or be as close to it as I could. ”Tom Hayes, the labels sales manager between 1965 and 1967, referred to the early period of the label in the UK as “organized chaos”. “My Boy Lollipop”, sung by Millie Small, was the labels first success in the UK, Blackwell explained in a 50-year-anniversary documentary that he was only interested in building long-term careers at that stage in time, rather than short-term projects. Suzette Newman has been a colleague of Chris Blackwells since working together in the early days of Island Records. Suzette Newman and Chris Salewicz were the editors for the book “The Story of Island Records, Blackwell relocated to England in May 1962 to garner greater levels of attention after the local Jamaican sound systems proved to be overwhelmingly successful. The vast majority of the artists who had signed to Blackwells fledgling label while he was in Jamaica agreed to allow the entrepreneur to release their music in the UK. While in England, Blackwell travelled throughout the city carrying his stock with him and he did not provide any copies to radio stations, as they would not play any of the Island music, the music was also not reviewed by the press. Meanwhile, Goodall left to start the Doctor Bird record label in 1965, Blackwell signed the Spencer Davis Group to the label. The group became popular and Island started their own independent series to spotlight UK rock talent. They signed artists like John Martyn, Fairport Convention, Free, by the late 1960s and early 1970s, they were a major label in England with artists like Roxy Music, King Crimson, Traffic, The Wailers, and many others. Blackwell had signed Bob Marley, and now Toots and the Maytals, in November 2016, Jackie Jackson described the formation of the group in a radio interview for Kool 97 FM Jamaica. Accompanied by Paul Douglas and Radcliffe Dougie Bryan in studio, Jackson explained, Were all original members of Toots, first it was Toots and the Maytals, three guys, Toots, Raleigh, and Jerry. …And then they were signed to Island Records, Chris Blackwell, and we were their recording band. One day we were summoned to Chris house, and he says, Alright gentleman, I think its time
14.
The Velvet Underground
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The Velvet Underground was a rock band formed in New York, America, by singer/guitarist Lou Reed, multi-instrumentalist John Cale, guitarist Sterling Morrison, and drummer Angus MacLise. The provocative subject matter, musical experimentation, and often nihilistic attitudes explored in the work would prove influential in the development of punk rock. In 2004, Rolling Stone ranked the band No.19 on its list of the 100 Greatest Artists of All Time, the band was inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame in 1996 by Patti Smith. The foundations for what would become the Velvet Underground were laid in late 1964, singer/songwriter/guitarist Lou Reed had performed with a few short-lived garage bands and had worked as a songwriter for Pickwick Records. Reed met John Cale, a Welshman who had moved to the United States to study classical music upon securing a scholarship. Cale had worked with experimental composers Cornelius Cardew and La Monte Young, Youngs use of extended drones would be a profound influence on the bands early sound. Cale was pleasantly surprised to discover that Reeds experimentalist tendencies were similar to his own, the pair rehearsed and performed together, their partnership and shared interests built the path towards what would later become the Velvet Underground. Reed and Cale recruited Sterling Morrison—a college classmate of Reeds at Syracuse University—as a replacement for Walter De Maria, Reed and Morrison both played guitars, Cale played viola, keyboards and bass and Angus MacLise joined on percussion to complete the initial four-member unit. This quartet was first called the Warlocks, then the Falling Spikes, MacLise made a suggestion to adopt the title as the bands name. The band immediately and unanimously adopted the Velvet Underground as its new name in November 1965, the newly named Velvet Underground rehearsed and performed in New York City. Their music was much more relaxed than it would later become, Cale described this era as reminiscent of beat poetry. When he briefly returned to Britain, Cale attempted to give a copy of the tape to Marianne Faithfull, hoping shed pass it on to Mick Jagger, nothing ever came of this, but the demo was eventually released on the 1995 box set Peel Slowly and See. Manager and music journalist Al Aronowitz arranged for the groups first paying gig—$75 to play at Summit High School, in Summit, New Jersey, opening for the Myddle Class. When they decided to take the gig, MacLise abruptly left the group, protesting what he considered a sellout, he was unwilling to be told when to start. Angus was in it for art, Morrison reported, MacLise was replaced by Maureen Moe Tucker, the younger sister of Morrisons friend Jim Tucker. Her rhythms, at once simple and exotic, became a part of the groups music. The group earned a regular paying gig at the Café Bizarre, in 1965, after being introduced to the Velvet Underground by filmmaker Barbara Rubin, Andy Warhol became the bands manager and suggested they use the German-born singer Nico on several songs. Warhols reputation helped the band gain a higher profile and he helped the band secure a recording contract with MGMs Verve Records, with himself as nominal producer, and gave the Velvets free rein over the sound they created
15.
John Cale
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John Davies Cale, OBE is a musician, composer, singer-songwriter and record producer, born in Wales, who was a founding member of the experimental rock band the Velvet Underground. Over his five-decade career, Cale has worked in various styles across rock, drone, classical, avant-garde, since leaving the band in 1968, he has released approximately 30 albums. He produced the first albums of the Stooges, the Modern Lovers, Patti Smith, Squeeze, Cale was inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame as a member of the Velvet Underground in 1996, and appointed Officer of the Order of the British Empire in 2010. John Cale was born on 9 March 1942 in Garnant in the industrial Amman Valley of Wales to Will Cale, a miner, and Margaret Davies. Cale was molested by two different men during his childhood, one of the men was an Anglican priest who molested him in a church. Having discovered a talent for viola, Cale studied music at Goldsmiths College, while he was there he organised an early Fluxus concert, A Little Festival of New Music, on 6 July 1964. He also contributed to the short film Police Car and had two published in Fluxus Preview Review for the nascent avant-garde collective. He conducted the first performance in the UK of Cages Concert for Piano and Orchestra, with the composer and pianist Michael Garrett as soloist. He also enjoyed rock music from an age and in 1963 he travelled to the United States to continue his musical training, thanks to the help. In New York City Cale met a number of influential composers, on 9 September 1963 he participated, along with John Cage and several others, in an 18-hour piano-playing marathon that was the first full-length performance of Erik Saties Vexations. After the performance Cale appeared on the panel show Ive Got a Secret. Cales secret was that he had performed in an 18-hour concert, Cale also played in La Monte Young and Tony Conrads ensemble the Theatre of Eternal Music, also known as the Dream Syndicate. The heavily drone-laden music he played there proved to be a big influence in his work with his next group, one of his collaborators on these recordings was the Velvet Underground guitarist Sterling Morrison. Three albums of his experimental work from this period were released in 2001. In early 1965, he co-founded the Velvet Underground with Lou Reed, recruiting his flatmate Angus MacLise, Cale left the band in September 1968, owing in part to creative disagreements with Reed. Initially hired to play one show, she soon became a permanent member and her tribal pounding style became an integral part of the groups music. The very first commercially available recording of the Velvet Underground, a track called Loop given away with Aspen Magazine, was a feedback experiment written. His creative relationship with Reed was integral to the sound of the Velvet Undergrounds first two albums, The Velvet Underground & Nico and White Light/White Heat, on these albums he plays viola, bass guitar and piano, and sings occasional backing vocals
16.
Lou Reed
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Lewis Allan Lou Reed was an American musician, singer and songwriter. He was the guitarist, vocalist, and principal songwriter of the Velvet Underground, the Velvet Underground was unsuccessful during their active years, but gained a significant cult following to become one of the most widely acclaimed and influential bands in rock history. Brian Eno famously stated that, while the Velvet Undergrounds debut album sold only 30,000 copies, Reeds solo career began in 1972. He had a hit the year with Walk on the Wild Side. Reed was known for his distinctive voice and poetic lyrics. Reed was born on March 2,1942 at Beth El Hospital in Brooklyn and grew up in Freeport, contrary to some sources, his birth name was Lewis Allan Reed, not Louis Firbanks, a name that was coined as a joke by Lester Bangs in Creem magazine. Reed was the son of Toby and Sidney Joseph Reed, an accountant and his family was Jewish, and although he said that he was Jewish, he added, My God is rocknroll. Its an obscure power that can change your life, the most important part of my religion is to play guitar. Reed attended Atkinson Elementary School in Freeport and went on to Freeport Junior High School and his sister said that as a teenager, he suffered panic attacks, became socially awkward and possessed a fragile temperament but was highly focused on things that he liked – principally music. Having learned to play the guitar from the radio, he developed an early interest in rock and roll and rhythm and blues, Reed began experimenting with drugs at the age of 16. His first recording was as a member of a group called the Jades. His love for playing music and his desire to play gigs brought him into confrontation with his anxious, visiting a psychologist, Reeds parents were made to feel guilty as inadequate parents, and consented to electroconvulsive therapy. Reed appeared to blame his father principally for what he had subjected to. He wrote about the experience in his 1974 song, Kill Your Sons, in an interview, Reed said of the experience, They put the thing down your throat so you dont swallow your tongue, and they put electrodes on your head. Thats what was recommended in Rockland County then to discourage homosexual feelings, the effect is that you lose your memory and become a vegetable. You cant read a book because you get to page 17 and have to go back to page one again. Upon his recovery from the bout of illness and associated treatment, Reed resumed his education at Syracuse University in 1960, studying journalism, film directing and he was a platoon leader in ROTC and was later expelled from the program for holding an unloaded gun to his superiors head. In 1961, he began hosting a radio program on WAER called Excursions On A Wobbly Rail
17.
Brian Jones
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Lewis Brian Hopkin Jones was an English musician, the founder and the original leader of the Rolling Stones. Although he was originally the leader of the band, Joness fellow band members Mick Jagger and Keith Richards soon overshadowed him, Jones developed a serious drug problem over the years and his role in the band steadily diminished with help from Jagger and Richards. The band asked Jones to leave the Rolling Stones in June 1969, Jones died less than a month later by drowning in the swimming pool at his home on Cotchford Farm in Hartfield, East Sussex. Original Rolling Stones bass guitarist Bill Wyman said of Jones, He formed the band and he chose the music we played. He was very influential, very important, and then slowly lost it – highly intelligent – and just kind of wasted it, Lewis Brian Hopkin Jones was born in the Park Nursing Home in Cheltenham, Gloucestershire, on 28 February 1942. An attack of croup at the age of four left him with asthma and his middle-class parents, Lewis Blount Jones and Louisa Beatrice Jones were of Welsh descent. Brian had two sisters, Pamela, who was born on 3 October 1943 and died on 14 October 1945 of leukemia, in 1957 Jones first heard Cannonball Adderleys music, which inspired his interest in jazz. Jones persuaded his parents to buy him a saxophone, and two years later his parents gave him his first acoustic guitar as a 17th birthday present and he enjoyed badminton and diving at school and attained first clarinet in the school orchestra. In 1957 he reportedly obtained seven O-level passes, then he continued into the sixth form and he also took three A-levels in Physics, Chemistry and Biology and passed in Physics and Chemistry, but failed in Biology. Jones was able to well in exams despite a lack of academic effort. However, he found school regimented and disliked conforming and he disliked the school uniforms and angered teachers with his behaviour, though he was popular with classmates. Jones himself said, When I made the sixth form I found myself accepted by the older boys and his hostility to authority figures resulted in his suspension from school on two occasions. According to Dick Hattrell, a friend, He was a rebel without a cause. In late summer 1959, Joness 17-year-old girlfriend, a Cheltenham schoolgirl named Valerie Corbett, although Jones is said to have encouraged her to have an abortion, she carried the child to term and placed baby Barry David for adoption. Jones quit school in disgrace and left home, travelling for a summer through Northern Europe, during this period, he lived a bohemian lifestyle, busking with his guitar on the streets for money, and living off the charity of others. Eventually, he ran short of money and returned to England, Jones listened to classical music as a child, but preferred blues, particularly Elmore James and Robert Johnson. He began performing at blues and jazz clubs, while busking and working odd jobs. He reportedly stole small amounts of money from work to pay for cigarettes, in November 1959, Jones went to the Wooden Bridge Hotel in Guildford to see a band perform
18.
Kevin Ayers
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Kevin Ayers was an English singer-songwriter and a major influential force in the English psychedelic movement. Ayers was a member of the pioneering psychedelic band Soft Machine in the mid-1960s. After living for years in Deià, Majorca, he returned to the United Kingdom in the mid-1990s before moving to the south of France. His last album was The Unfairground, recorded in New York City, Tucson, the British rock journalist Nick Kent wrote, Kevin Ayers and Syd Barrett were the two most important people in British pop music. Everything that came after came from them, Ayers was born in Herne Bay, Kent, the son of BBC producer Rowan Ayers. Following his parents divorce and his mothers subsequent marriage to a British civil servant, Ayers returned to England at the age of twelve. In his early years he took up with the burgeoning musicians scene in the Canterbury area. He was quickly drafted into the Wilde Flowers, a band that featured Robert Wyatt and Hugh Hopper, Ayers stated in interviews that the primary reason he was asked to join was that he probably had the longest hair. However, this prompted him to writing songs and singing. The Wilde Flowers morphed into Soft Machine with the addition of keyboardist Mike Ratledge, Ayers switched to bass and shared vocals with the drummer Robert Wyatt. The contrast between Ayers baritone and Wyatts reedy tenor, plus the freewheeling mix of rock and jazz influences, the band often shared stages with Pink Floyd. They released their debut single Love Makes Sweet Music/Feelin Reelin Squeelin in February 1967 and their debut album, The Soft Machine, was recorded in the USA for ABC/Probe and released in 1968. It is considered a classic of the genre, to many in the U. S, the Soft Machine was best known for being the opening act on the second U. S. tour by Jimi Hendrix, thus exposing them to an entire new audience. While there, Ayers went on a songwriting binge that resulted in the songs that would make up his first album, the album was one of the first released on the new Harvest label, alongside Pink Floyds Ummagumma. Ayers colleagues from Soft Machine backed him, with the addition on some cuts of Rob Tait, one interesting product of the sessions was the single, Religious Experience, early recordings of which featured Syd Barrett on guitar and backing vocals. However the 2004 CD reissue of Joy of a Toy includes a mix of this song featuring Barretts guitar as a bonus track, Ayers was to all intents and purposes a member of Gong in 1971 when the band first toured the UK. He also played a role in Steve Hillage appearing in Gong in 1972. A second album, Shooting at the Moon, soon followed, again Ayers came up with a batch of engaging songs interspersed with avant-garde instrumentals and a heavy dose of whimsy
19.
John Cooper Clarke
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John Cooper Clarke is an English performance poet who first became famous during the punk rock era of the late 1970s when he became known as a punk poet. He released several albums in the late 1970s and early 1980s and his recorded output has mainly centred on musical backing from the Invisible Girls, which featured Martin Hannett, Steve Hopkins, Pete Shelley, Bill Nelson, and Paul Burgess. Clarke was born in Salford, Lancashire, in 1949 and his first job was a laboratory technician at Salford Tech. He began his career in Manchester folk clubs, where he began working with Rick Goldstraw. His first releases were on Tosh Ryan and Martin Hannetts independent label Rabid, Rabid also released his debut LP Où est la maison de fromage. Which was a collection of recordings, demos and rehearsals. This was reissued by Revolver Records in 1989 also making it his last album to date and he toured with Bill Nelsons band Be-Bop Deluxe in 1978 and was signed by Epic Records, who issued the Martin Hannett produced studio album Disguise In Love in 1978. Clarke has attributed his success in part to the influence of the English female poet Pam Ayres. Her run of success on the British TV show Opportunity Knocks led both Clarke and his mother to believe that he could make a living at poetry, in 1979 he had his only UK top 40 hit with Gimmix. His set is characterised by lively, rapid-fire renditions of his poems, often referred to as the bard of Salford, he usually refers to himself on stage as Johnny Clarke, the name behind the hairstyle. In 1979 he applied to actors union Equity, but as there was already a member named John Cooper Clarke. His 1980 album Snap, Crackle & Bop gave him his highest album chart placing, reaching number 26, Clarke appeared in a 1982 music documentary compilation Urgh. A Music War, in which he performed his poem Health Fanatic, the film featured live performances of mainstream artists as well as more obscure bands using concert footage from around the world. He also starred in another 1982 film titled John Cooper Clarke - Ten Years in an Open Necked Shirt directed by Nick May and produced for the Arts Council of Great Britain and Channel 4. Somewhere between a film, a series of music videos and a documentary, the film features interviews and performances by Clarke. He described this period of his life, It was a feral existence, in 1987 he performed live at Albany Empire in London with Suns of Arqa, recorded two tracks for their album Seven, and featured in the music video for the latter. In 1988 he made an appearance in two UK adverts for Sugar Puffs, taking second billing to the Honey Monster and he returned to live performance in the 1990s, appearing again with Suns of Arqa in 1992 at The Witchwood in Ashton-Under-Lyne. His vocals from both of his Suns of Arqa tracks have used on numerous remixes by the band ever since
20.
Bob Dylan
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Bob Dylan is an American songwriter, singer, painter, and writer. He has been influential in music and culture for more than five decades. Much of his most celebrated work dates from the 1960s, when his songs chronicled social unrest, early songs such as Blowin in the Wind and The Times They Are a-Changin became anthems for the Civil Rights Movement and anti-war movement. Leaving behind his initial base in the American folk music revival, his six-minute single Like a Rolling Stone, recorded in 1965, Dylans lyrics incorporate a wide range of political, social, philosophical, and literary influences. They defied existing pop music conventions and appealed to the burgeoning counterculture, initially inspired by the performances of Little Richard and the songwriting of Woody Guthrie, Robert Johnson, and Hank Williams, Dylan has amplified and personalized musical genres. Dylan performs with guitar, keyboards, and harmonica, backed by a changing lineup of musicians, he has toured steadily since the late 1980s on what has been dubbed the Never Ending Tour. His accomplishments as a recording artist and performer have been central to his career, since 1994, Dylan has published seven books of drawings and paintings, and his work has been exhibited in major art galleries. As a musician, Dylan has sold more than 100 million records and he has also received numerous awards including eleven Grammy Awards, a Golden Globe Award, and an Academy Award. Dylan has been inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, Minnesota Music Hall of Fame, Nashville Songwriters Hall of Fame, and Songwriters Hall of Fame. The Pulitzer Prize jury in 2008 awarded him a citation for his profound impact on popular music and American culture. In May 2012, Dylan received the Presidential Medal of Freedom from President Barack Obama, in 2016, he was awarded the Nobel Prize in Literature for having created new poetic expressions within the great American song tradition. Bob Dylan was born Robert Allen Zimmerman in St. Marys Hospital on May 24,1941, in Duluth, Minnesota and he has a younger brother, David. Dylans paternal grandparents, Zigman and Anna Zimmerman, emigrated from Odessa, in the Russian Empire and his maternal grandparents, Ben and Florence Stone, were Lithuanian Jews who arrived in the United States in 1902. Dylans father, Abram Zimmerman – an electric-appliance shop owner – and mother, Beatrice Beatty Stone, were part of a small, close-knit Jewish community. They lived in Duluth until Robert was six, when his father had polio and the returned to his mothers hometown, Hibbing. In his early years he listened to the radio—first to blues and country stations from Shreveport, Louisiana, and later and he formed several bands while attending Hibbing High School. In the Golden Chords, he performed covers of songs by Little Richard and their performance of Danny & the Juniors Rock and Roll Is Here to Stay at their high school talent show was so loud that the principal cut the microphone. In 1959, his high school yearbook carried the caption Robert Zimmerman, the same year, as Elston Gunnn, he performed two dates with Bobby Vee, playing piano and clapping
21.
Brian Eno
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Brian Peter George St John le Baptiste de la Salle Eno, RDI is an English musician, composer, record producer, singer, writer, and visual artist. He is best known for his work in rock, ambient, pop. He has been described as one of musics most influential. Born in Suffolk, Eno studied painting and experimental music at art school in the late 1960s before joining glam rock group Roxy Music as synthesizer player in 1971. He took part in frequent collaborations with such as Robert Fripp, Cluster, David Bowie on his Berlin Trilogy. In subsequent decades, Eno continued to record albums, collaborate, and produce for other artists, including U2, Coldplay, Laurie Anderson, James, Grace Jones. He continues to release music, produce, and write, the unusual surname Eno, long established in Suffolk, derives from the French Huguenot surname Hennot. Maria had already had a daughter, and together William and Maria would have two children, Roger and Arlette. In school, Eno used a tape recorder as an instrument and experimented with his first, sometimes improvisational. From that collaboration, he involved in Cornelius Cardews Scratch Orchestra. The first released recording in which Eno played is the Deutsche Grammophon edition of Cardews The Great Learning, Another early recording was the Berlin Horse soundtrack, by Malcom Le Grice, a nine-minute,2 ×16 mm-double-projection, released in 1970 and presented in 1971. He then progressed to appearing on stage as a member of the group. He quit the band on completing the tour for the bands second album, For Your Pleasure, because of disagreements with lead singer Bryan Ferry. If Id walked ten yards further on the platform, or missed that train, or been in the next carriage, during his period with Roxy Music, and for his first three solo albums, he was credited on records only as Eno. Eno embarked on a career almost immediately. Between 1973 and 1977 he created four albums of electronically inflected art pop, Here Come the Warm Jets, Taking Tiger Mountain, Another Green World, and Before and After Science. Tiger Mountain contains the galloping Third Uncle, one of Enos best-known songs and these four albums were remastered and reissued in 2004 by Virgins Astralwerks label. Due to Enos decision not to add any extra tracks of the original material, in 1972, Eno and Robert Fripp developed the Frippertronics tape delay system, a year later, the pair released the proto-ambient album
22.
Iggy Pop
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James Newell Osterberg, Jr. known professionally as Iggy Pop, is an American singer-songwriter, musician, producer and actor. He was the vocalist of influential proto-punk band The Stooges, who reunited in 2003, Pops music has encompassed a number of styles over the course of his career, including garage rock, punk rock, hard rock, art rock, new wave, jazz and blues. In 2010, The Stooges were inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, Osterberg was raised in a trailer park in Ypsilanti, Michigan. He is of German, English and Irish descent on his fathers side and his father was adopted by a Swedish American family and took on their surname. His later stage name, Iggy, is derived from the Iguanas, after exploring local blues-style bands such as the Prime Movers, he eventually dropped out of the University of Michigan and moved to Chicago to learn more about blues. While in Chicago, he played drums in blues clubs, helped by Sam Lay who shared his connections with Iggy, inspired by Chicago blues as well as bands like The Sonics, MC5 and The Doors, he formed the Psychedelic Stooges and began calling himself Iggy. The band was composed of Iggy on vocals, Ron Asheton on guitar, Ashetons brother Scott on drums and their first show was played at a Halloween party at a house in Detroit, Michigan. Members of the MC5 were also in attendance, the seeds of Pops stage persona were sown when he saw The Doors perform in 1967 at the University of Michigan and was amazed by the stage antics and antagonism displayed by singer Jim Morrison. Morrisons extreme behavior, while performing in a band, inspired the young Pop to push the boundaries of stage performance. Other influences on Pops vocals and persona were Mick Jagger and James Brown, Pop was the first performer to do a stage-dive, which he started at a concert in Detroit. Pop, who traditionally performs bare-chested, also performed such stage theatrics as rolling around in broken glass, exposing himself to the crowd, I attended two concerts by the Doors. The first one I attended was early on and they had not gotten their shit together yet and that show was a big, big, big influence on me. They had just had their big hit, “Light My Fire”, so, here’s this guy, out of his head on acid, dressed in leather with his hair all oiled and curled. The stage was tiny and it was really low, part of me was like, Wow, this is great. He’s really pissing people off and he’s lurching around making these guys angry, people were rushing the stage and Morrison’s going Fuck you. You can fill in your sexual comments yourself, the other half of it was that I thought, If they’ve got a hit record out and they can get away with this, then I have no fucking excuse not to get out on stage with my band. It was sort of the case of, Hey, I can do that, there really was some of that in there. In a 1995 interview with Bust Magazine, he relates, And the other thing was we went to New York. ”And we didn’t have anywhere to crash, and they played for us, and they completely rocked, and we were really ashamed. ”In 1968, one year after their debut and now dubbed The Stooges, the band signed with Elektra Records, again following in the footsteps of The Doors
23.
Warhol superstars
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Warhol superstars were a clique of New York City personalities promoted by the pop artist Andy Warhol during the 1960s and early 1970s. These personalities appeared in Warhols artworks and accompanied him in his life, epitomizing his famous dictum. Warhol would simply film them, and declare them superstars, the first recognised superstar was Baby Jane Holzer, whom Warhol featured in many of his early film experiments. The superstars would help Warhol generate publicity while Warhol offered fame, Warhols philosophies of art and celebrity met in a way that imitated the Hollywood studio system at its height in the 1930s and 1940s. Among the most well-known of Warhols superstars was Edie Sedgwick, Sedgwick and Warhol became very close during 1965 but their relationship ended abruptly early in the next year. Warhol would continue to associate himself with people including Viva, Candy Darling, Ultra Violet, Nico, Warhols studio, the Factory, played host to most of his superstars and as his experiments in film continued he became more interested in the bohemian eccentrics attracted to the studio. During this period Warhol developed a fascination with trans women and drag queens. Warhol significantly reduced his public accessibility after being shot by Valerie Solanas in 1968, the age of the Warhol superstar soon faded. Chelsea Girls was the film to achieve success beyond the confines of artistic New York. The later Warhol/Morrissey collaborations Flesh, Trash, Heat and Women in Revolt, into which Warhol had little input, are more frequently seen
24.
The Velvet Underground & Nico
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The Velvet Underground & Nico is the debut album by American rock band the Velvet Underground, released in March 1967 by Verve Records. It ranked 13th on Rolling Stone magazines list of the 500 Greatest Albums of All Time and was added to the 2006 National Recording Registry by the Library of Congress. In 1982, musician Brian Eno famously stated that while the album only sold 30,000 copies. Genres that were informed by the album include art rock, punk, garage, grunge, shoegaze, gothic, indie. The Velvet Underground & Nico was recorded with the first professional line-up of the Velvet Underground, Lou Reed, John Cale, Sterling Morrison and Maureen Tucker. German singer Nico was also featured, having occasionally performed lead vocals for the band at the instigation of their mentor and manager, Nico sang lead on three of the albums tracks—Femme Fatale, All Tomorrows Parties and Ill Be Your Mirror—and back-up on Sunday Morning. In 1966, as the album was being recorded, this was also the line-up for their performances as a part of Warhols Exploding Plastic Inevitable. The bulk of the songs that would become The Velvet Underground & Nico were recorded in mid-April 1966, during a stint at Scepter Studios. This recording session was financed by Warhol and Columbia Records sales executive Norman Dolph, though the exact total cost of the project is unknown, estimates vary from $1,500 to $3,000. Eventually, the MGM Records-owned Verve Records accepted the recordings with the help of Verve staff producer Tom Wilson, who had recently moved from a job at Columbia. With the affirmation of a label, three of the songs, Im Waiting for the Man, Venus in Furs and Heroin, were re-recorded in two days at T. T. G, Studios during a stay in Hollywood, one month later in May 1966. When the records release date was postponed, Wilson brought the band into Mayfair Recording Studios in Manhattan in November 1966, to add a song to the track listing. There is some confusion as to who actually produced The Velvet Underground & Nico, although Andy Warhol was the only formally credited producer, he had very little direct influence or authority over the album beyond paying for the recording sessions. In fact, several individuals who worked on the album are often mentioned as the albums technical producer. Norman Dolph and John Licata are sometimes attributed to producing the Scepter Studios sessions, Dolph himself, however, admits John Cale as the albums rightful creative producer, as he handled the majority of the albums musical arrangements. And yet, Cale later recalled that it was Tom Wilson who actually produced nearly all the tracks on The Velvet Underground & Nico, the band never again had as good a producer as Tom Wilson, Cale told an interviewer. However, other band members Sterling Morrison and Lou Reed would cite Warhols lack of manipulation as a means of production. Morrison described Warhol as the producer in the sense of producing a film
25.
Federico Fellini
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Federico Fellini was an Italian film director and screenwriter. Known for his style that blends fantasy and baroque images with earthiness. His films have ranked, in such as Cahiers du cinéma and Sight & Sound. Sight & Sound lists his 1963 film 8½ as the 10th greatest film of all time, in 1993, he was awarded an honorary Oscar for Lifetime Achievement at the 65th Annual Academy Awards in Los Angeles. Fellini was born on 20 January 1920, to parents in Rimini. His father, Urbano Fellini, born to a family of Romagnol peasants and small landholders from Gambettola and his mother, Ida Barbiani, came from a bourgeiois Catholic family of Roman merchants. Despite her familys vehement disapproval, she had eloped with Urbano in 1917 to live at his parents home in Gambettola, a civil marriage followed in 1918 with the religious ceremony held at Santa Maria Maggiore in Rome a year later. The couple settled in Rimini where Urbano became a traveling salesman, Fellini had two siblings, Riccardo, a documentary director for RAI Television, and Maria Maddalena. In 1924, Fellini started primary school in a run by the nuns of San Vincenzo in Rimini. In 1926, he discovered the world of Grand Guignol, the circus with Pierino the Clown, Guido Brignone’s Maciste all’Inferno, the first film he saw, would mark him in ways linked to Dante and the cinema throughout his entire career. Enrolled at the Ginnasio Giulio Cesare in 1929, he made friends with Luigi ‘Titta’ Benzi, in Mussolini’s Italy, Fellini and Riccardo became members of the Avanguardista, the compulsory Fascist youth group for males. He visited Rome with his parents for the first time in 1933, the sea creature found on the beach at the end of La Dolce Vita has its basis in a giant fish marooned on a Rimini beach during a storm in 1934. To say that my films are autobiographical is an overly facile liquidation and it seems to me that I have invented almost everything, childhood, character, nostalgias, dreams, memories, for the pleasure of being able to recount them. In 1937, Fellini opened Febo, a shop in Rimini. with the painter Demos Bonini. His first humorous article appeared in the Postcards to Our Readers section of Milan’s Domenica del Corriere, deciding on a career as a caricaturist and gag writer, Fellini travelled to Florence in 1938, where he published his first cartoon in the weekly 420. According to a biographer, Fellini found school exasperating and, in one year, had 67 absences, failing his military culture exam, he graduated from high school in July 1938 after doubling the exam. In September 1939, he enrolled in law school at the University of Rome to please his parents, biographer Hollis Alpert reports that there is no record of his ever having attended a class. Installed in a family pensione, he met lifelong friend
26.
La Dolce Vita
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La Dolce Vita is a 1960 Italian comedy-drama film directed and co-written by Federico Fellini. The film follows Marcello Rubini, a journalist writing for magazines, over seven days and nights on his journey through the sweet life of Rome in a fruitless search for love. La Dolce Vita won the Palme dOr at the 1960 Cannes Film Festival and the Oscar for Best Costumes, based on the most common interpretation of the storyline, the film can be divided into a prologue, seven major episodes interrupted by an intermezzo, and an epilogue. If the evenings of each episode were joined with the morning of the preceding episode together as a day, they would form seven consecutive days. 1st Day Sequence, A helicopter transports a statue of Christ over an ancient Roman aqueduct outside Rome while a second, Marcello Rubinis news helicopter, the news helicopter is momentarily sidetracked by a group of bikini-clad women sunbathing on the rooftop of a high-rise apartment building. Hovering above, Marcello uses gestures to elicit phone numbers from them but fails in his attempt then shrugs, 1st Night Sequence, Marcello meets Maddalena by chance in an exclusive nightclub. A beautiful and wealthy heiress, Maddalena is tired of Rome and they make love in the bedroom of a prostitute to whom they had given a ride home in Maddalena’s Cadillac. 1st Dawn Sequence, Marcello returns to his apartment at dawn to find that his fiancée, on the way to the hospital, he declares his everlasting love to her and again as she lies in a semiconscious state in the emergency room. While waiting frantically for her recovery, however, he tries to make a call to Maddalena. 2nd Day Sequence, That day, he goes on assignment for the arrival of Sylvia, during Sylvias press conference, Marcello calls home to ensure Emma has taken her medication while reassuring her that he is not alone with Sylvia. After the film star confidently replies to the barrage of questions, her boyfriend Robert enters the room late. To Sylvias producer, Marcello casually recommends that Sylvia be taken on a tour of St Peters, inside St Peters dome, a news reporter complains that Sylvia is an elevator because none of them can match her energetic climb up the numerous flights of stairs. Inspired, Marcello maneuvers forward to be alone with her when they reach the balcony overlooking the Vatican. 2nd Night Sequence, That evening, the infatuated Marcello dances with Sylvia in the Baths of Caracalla, Sylvias natural sensuality triggers raucous partying while Robert, her bored fiancé, draws caricatures and reads a newspaper. His humiliating remark to her causes Sylvia to leave the group, eagerly followed by Marcello, finding themselves alone, Marcello and Sylvia spend the rest of the evening in the alleys of Rome where they wade into the Trevi Fountain. 2nd Dawn Sequence, Like a magic spell that has suddenly been broken and they drive back to Sylvias hotel to find an enraged Robert waiting for her in his car. Robert slaps Sylvia, orders her to go to bed, 3rd Day Sequence, Marcello meets Steiner, his distinguished intellectual friend, inside a church playing Bach on the organ. Steiner shows off his book of Sanskrit grammar, 4th Day Sequence, Late afternoon, Marcello, his photographer friend Paparazzo, and Emma drive to the outskirts of Rome to cover the story of the purported sighting of the Madonna by two children
27.
Andy Warhol
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Andy Warhol was an American artist who was a leading figure in the visual art movement known as pop art. Born and raised in Pittsburgh, Warhol initially pursued a career as a commercial illustrator. After exhibiting his work in galleries in the late 1950s. He promoted a collection of known as Warhol superstars, and is credited with coining the widely used expression 15 minutes of fame. In the late 1960s, he managed and produced the rock band The Velvet Underground. He authored numerous books, including The Philosophy of Andy Warhol and Popism and he is also notable as a gay man who lived openly as such before the gay liberation movement. Warhol has been the subject of retrospective exhibitions, books. The Andy Warhol Museum in his city of Pittsburgh, which holds an extensive permanent collection of art. Many of his creations are very collectible and highly valuable, the highest price ever paid for a Warhol painting is US$105 million for a 1963 canvas titled Silver Car Crash, his works include some of the most expensive paintings ever sold. A2009 article in The Economist described Warhol as the bellwether of the art market, Warhol was born on August 6,1928 in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. He was the child of Ondrej Warhola and Julia, whose first child was born in their homeland. His parents were working-class Lemko emigrants from Mikó, located in todays northeastern Slovakia, Warhols father emigrated to the United States in 1914, and his mother joined him in 1921, after the death of Warhols grandparents. Warhols father worked in a coal mine, the family lived at 55 Beelen Street and later at 3252 Dawson Street in the Oakland neighborhood of Pittsburgh. The family was Byzantine Catholic and attended St. John Chrysostom Byzantine Catholic Church, Andy Warhol had two older brothers—Pavol, the oldest, was born before the family emigrated, Ján was born in Pittsburgh. Pavols son, James Warhola, became a childrens book illustrator. He became a hypochondriac, developing a fear of hospitals and doctors, often bedridden as a child, he became an outcast at school and bonded with his mother. At times when he was confined to bed, he drew, listened to the radio, Warhol later described this period as very important in the development of his personality, skill-set and preferences. When Warhol was 13, his father died in an accident, as a teenager, Warhol graduated from Schenley High School in 1945
28.
Chelsea Girls
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Chelsea Girls is a 1966 experimental underground film directed by Andy Warhol and Paul Morrissey. The film was Warhols first major success after a long line of avant-garde art films. It was shot at the Hotel Chelsea and other locations in New York City, and follows the lives of several of the women who live there. It is presented in a screen, accompanied by alternating soundtracks attached to each scene. The original cut runs at just over three hours long, the title, Chelsea Girls, is a reference to the location in which the film takes place. It was the inspiration for star Nicos 1967 debut album, Chelsea Girl, the album featured a ballad-like track titled Chelsea Girls, written about the hotel and its inhabitants who appear in the film. The girl in the poster is Clare Shenstone, at the age of 16, with its creativity and eroticism this Chelsea Girl poster captures the essence of the film. It was designed for the release of the movie in London by graphic artist Alan Aldridge, Warhol was extremely happy with the design and commented that he “wished the movie was as good as the poster”. According to script-writer Ronald Tavel, Warhol first brought up the idea for the film in the room of Maxs Kansas City, Warhols favorite nightspot. Warhol was referring to both the concept of the film, as well as the content of the scenes presented. Filming also took place at Warhols studio The Factory, appearing in the film were many of Warhols regulars, including Nico, Brigid Berlin, Gerard Malanga, Mary Woronov as Hanoi Hannah, Ingrid Superstar, International Velvet and Eric Emerson. According to Burns documentary, Warhol and his companions completed an average of one 33-minute segment per week, sedgwicks footage has been used in another Warhol film, Afternoon. The cast of the film is made up of persons playing themselves. In the UK it was refused a certificate in 1967 by the British Board of Film Classification. Roger Ebert reviewed the film in June 1967, and had a response to it. Warhol has nothing to say and no technique to say it with and he simply wants to make movies, and he does, hours and hours of them. No wonder it still seems radical, despite all we have seen onscreen, Internet film review aggregator Rotten Tomatoes has the film ranked as 67% fresh, or positive, out of nine collected reviews. Chelsea Girls is largely unavailable for home video format, the film belongs to the Andy Warhol Foundation, and it, along with Warhols other films have never seen home video releases in the United States
29.
Spreewald
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The Spreewald is a picturesque section of the German state of Brandenburg located about 100 km south-east of Berlin. Spreewald was designated a reserve by UNESCO in 1991. It is known for its irrigation system, consisting of more than 200 small canals within the 484-square-kilometre area. The landscape was shaped during the ice-age, alder forests on wetlands and pine forests on sandy dry areas are characteristic for the region. Grasslands and fields can be found as well, about 50,000 people live in the biosphere reserve. Many of them are descendants of the first settlers in the Spreewald region and they have preserved their traditional language, customs and clothing to this day. Many tourists enjoy the exploration of the Spreewald in punts, agriculture, forestry and fishery are other important sources of income. The principal town of the area is Lübbenau, Spreewald gave its name to the following German districts, Dahme-Spreewald Oberspreewald-Lausitz About 18,000 species of flora and fauna have been counted. In 1991, the Spreewald was designated a UNESCO Biosphärenreservat
30.
Berlin
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Berlin is the capital and the largest city of Germany as well as one of its constituent 16 states. With a population of approximately 3.5 million, Berlin is the second most populous city proper, due to its location in the European Plain, Berlin is influenced by a temperate seasonal climate. Around one-third of the area is composed of forests, parks, gardens, rivers. Berlin in the 1920s was the third largest municipality in the world, following German reunification in 1990, Berlin once again became the capital of all-Germany. Berlin is a city of culture, politics, media. Its economy is based on high-tech firms and the sector, encompassing a diverse range of creative industries, research facilities, media corporations. Berlin serves as a hub for air and rail traffic and has a highly complex public transportation network. The metropolis is a popular tourist destination, significant industries also include IT, pharmaceuticals, biomedical engineering, clean tech, biotechnology, construction and electronics. Modern Berlin is home to world renowned universities, orchestras, museums and its urban setting has made it a sought-after location for international film productions. The city is known for its festivals, diverse architecture, nightlife, contemporary arts. Since 2000 Berlin has seen the emergence of a cosmopolitan entrepreneurial scene, the name Berlin has its roots in the language of West Slavic inhabitants of the area of todays Berlin, and may be related to the Old Polabian stem berl-/birl-. All German place names ending on -ow, -itz and -in, since the Ber- at the beginning sounds like the German word Bär, a bear appears in the coat of arms of the city. It is therefore a canting arm, the first written records of towns in the area of present-day Berlin date from the late 12th century. Spandau is first mentioned in 1197 and Köpenick in 1209, although these areas did not join Berlin until 1920, the central part of Berlin can be traced back to two towns. Cölln on the Fischerinsel is first mentioned in a 1237 document,1237 is considered the founding date of the city. The two towns over time formed close economic and social ties, and profited from the right on the two important trade routes Via Imperii and from Bruges to Novgorod. In 1307, they formed an alliance with a common external policy, in 1415 Frederick I became the elector of the Margraviate of Brandenburg, which he ruled until 1440. In 1443 Frederick II Irontooth started the construction of a new palace in the twin city Berlin-Cölln
31.
World War II
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World War II, also known as the Second World War, was a global war that lasted from 1939 to 1945, although related conflicts began earlier. It involved the vast majority of the worlds countries—including all of the great powers—eventually forming two opposing alliances, the Allies and the Axis. It was the most widespread war in history, and directly involved more than 100 million people from over 30 countries. Marked by mass deaths of civilians, including the Holocaust and the bombing of industrial and population centres. These made World War II the deadliest conflict in human history, from late 1939 to early 1941, in a series of campaigns and treaties, Germany conquered or controlled much of continental Europe, and formed the Axis alliance with Italy and Japan. Under the Molotov–Ribbentrop Pact of August 1939, Germany and the Soviet Union partitioned and annexed territories of their European neighbours, Poland, Finland, Romania and the Baltic states. In December 1941, Japan attacked the United States and European colonies in the Pacific Ocean, and quickly conquered much of the Western Pacific. The Axis advance halted in 1942 when Japan lost the critical Battle of Midway, near Hawaii, in 1944, the Western Allies invaded German-occupied France, while the Soviet Union regained all of its territorial losses and invaded Germany and its allies. During 1944 and 1945 the Japanese suffered major reverses in mainland Asia in South Central China and Burma, while the Allies crippled the Japanese Navy, thus ended the war in Asia, cementing the total victory of the Allies. World War II altered the political alignment and social structure of the world, the United Nations was established to foster international co-operation and prevent future conflicts. The victorious great powers—the United States, the Soviet Union, China, the United Kingdom, the Soviet Union and the United States emerged as rival superpowers, setting the stage for the Cold War, which lasted for the next 46 years. Meanwhile, the influence of European great powers waned, while the decolonisation of Asia, most countries whose industries had been damaged moved towards economic recovery. Political integration, especially in Europe, emerged as an effort to end pre-war enmities, the start of the war in Europe is generally held to be 1 September 1939, beginning with the German invasion of Poland, Britain and France declared war on Germany two days later. The dates for the beginning of war in the Pacific include the start of the Second Sino-Japanese War on 7 July 1937, or even the Japanese invasion of Manchuria on 19 September 1931. Others follow the British historian A. J. P. Taylor, who held that the Sino-Japanese War and war in Europe and its colonies occurred simultaneously and this article uses the conventional dating. Other starting dates sometimes used for World War II include the Italian invasion of Abyssinia on 3 October 1935. The British historian Antony Beevor views the beginning of World War II as the Battles of Khalkhin Gol fought between Japan and the forces of Mongolia and the Soviet Union from May to September 1939, the exact date of the wars end is also not universally agreed upon. It was generally accepted at the time that the war ended with the armistice of 14 August 1945, rather than the formal surrender of Japan
32.
Internment
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Internment is the imprisonment or confinement of people, commonly in large groups, without trial. The term is used for the confinement of enemy citizens in wartime or of terrorism suspects. Thus, while it can simply mean imprisonment, it tends to refer to preventive confinement, use of these terms is subject to debate and political sensitivities. Interned persons may be held in prisons or in known as internment camps. In certain contexts, these may also be known either officially or pejoratively, internment also refers to a neutral countrys practice of detaining belligerent armed forces and equipment on its territory during times of war under the Hague Convention of 1907. The Universal Declaration of Human Rights restricts the use of internment, article 9 states that No one shall be subjected to arbitrary arrest, detention or exile. The United States set up camps for Cherokee and other Native Americans in the 1830s. From 1863 to 1868, the U. S, military persecuted and imprisoned 9,500 Navajo and 500 Mescalero Apache. Living under armed guards, more than 3,500 Navajo and Mescalero Apache men, women, the term concentration camp saw wider use during the Second Boer War, when the British operated such camps in South Africa for interning Boers. They built 45 tented camps for Boer internees and 64 for black Africans, of the 28,000 Boer men captured as prisoners of war, the British sent 25,630 overseas. The vast majority of Boers remaining in the camps were women and children. Some of them managed to go into exile or went off to join the armies of the Allies in order to fight against the Axis powers, while others ended up in Nazi concentration camps. During the 20th century, the internment of civilians by the state reached its most notorious excesses with the establishment of the Nazi concentration camps. The Nazi concentration camp system was notable for its size, with as many as 15,000 camps. Moreover, Nazi Germany established six camps, specifically designed to kill millions
33.
Dressmaker
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A dressmaker is a person who makes custom clothing for women, such as dresses, blouses, and evening gowns. Also called a mantua-maker or a modiste, dressmaker in this sense is contrasted to tailored and has fallen out of use since the rise of casual wear in the mid-twentieth century. Mantua-maker, in the century a maker of mantuas, or in general a dressmaker. Modiste, a maker of fashionable clothing and accessories, with the implication that the articles reflect the current Paris fashions. Sewing professional is the most general term for those who make their living by sewing, teaching, writing about sewing and she or he may work out of her home, a studio, or retail shop, and may work part-time or full-time. She or he may be any or all or the following sub-specialities, A custom clothier makes custom garments one at a time, to order, to meet a customers needs. A custom dressmaker specializes in womens apparel, including day dresses, careerwear, suits, evening or bridal wear, sportswear. A tailor makes custom menswear-style jackets and the skirts or trousers that go with them, an alterations specialist or alterationist adjusts the fit of completed garments, usually ready-to-wear, or restyles them. Note that while all tailors can do alterations, by no means can all alterationists do tailoring, designers choose combinations of line, proportion, color, and texture for intended garments. They may have no sewing or patternmaking skills, and may only sketch or conceptualize garments, a wardrobe consultant or fashion advisor recommends styles and colors for a client. A seamstress is someone who sews seams, or in other words and this term is not a synonym for dressmaker. Prior to the Industrial Revolution, a seamstress did handsewing, especially under the putting-out system, older variants are seamster and sempstress. Sewist is a new term, combining the words sew and artist, to describe someone who creates sewn works of art. Bespoke Fashion design Haute couture Tailor Sewing Butterick Publishing Company, The Art of Garment Cutting, Fitting and Making,1894. Deckert, Barbara, Sewing for Plus Sizes, Design, Fit and Construction for Ample Apparel, Taunton,1999, Appendix B, How to Find, Select, kirke, Betty, Madeleine Vionnet, Chronicle Books,1998. Picken, Mary Brooks, The Fashion Dictionary, Funk and Wagnalls,1957
34.
Kaufhaus des Westens
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The Kaufhaus des Westens, usually abbreviated to KaDeWe, is a department store in Berlin. With over 60,000 square metres of selling space and more than 380,000 articles available and it attracts 40,000 to 50,000 visitors every day. The store is located on Tauentzienstraße, a shopping street. It is technically in the extreme northwest of the neighbourhood of Schöneberg, since 2015, KaDeWe has been owned by the Central Group, a Thailand-based international department store conglomerate. The store was founded in 1907 by Adolf Jandorf, who persuaded the famous architect Emil Schaudt to build his store and it opened on 27 March 1907 with an area of 24,000 sq-m. In June 1927, ownership changed to the Hermann Tietz, Hermann Tietz was responsible for modernizing and expanding the store. They had the ambition to add two new floors but because of the Nazi rise to power in the 1930s their plans came to a sudden halt. Hermann Tietz was a Jewish owned partnership and because of the Nazis race laws the company was aryanized by duress, during World War II Allied bombing ruined most of the store, with one shot-down American bomber actually crashing into it in 1943. Most of the store was gutted, which caused its closure, the re-opening of the first two floors was celebrated in 1950. Full reconstruction of all seven floors was finished by 1956, between 1976 and 1978, the stores floor space was expanded from 24,000 sq-m to 44,000 sq-m. Just after the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989, KaDeWe recorded a number of people going through the store. By 1996, with a floor and restaurant added, the sales area had expanded to 60,000 sq-m. In 1994, the KarstadtQuelle AG corporation acquired Hertie and with it KaDeWe, most of the floors were renovated between 2004 and 2007 in preparation for the stores one hundredth anniversary. In January 2014, a majority stake in Karstadt Premium GmbH was acquired by the Signa Holding GmbH, in 2015, it was acquired by the Central Group. KaDeWe has eight floors, each one focused on a different type of merchandise, the ground floor is all Beauty Accessories and luxury goods. Some of the services offered include beauty salons as well as nail, tods, Vertu, Wellendorff and Yves Saint Laurent stores. The 1st floor is Mens Apparel, the 2nd floor is devoted to Womens Fashion. The 3rd floor is referred to as the Loft and represents Germanys biggest luxury shoe department, Womens leather goods and lingerie are sold here, too
35.
The End...
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The End. is the fifth studio album by German musician Nico. It was recorded in 1973 and produced by John Cale and it was released in November 1974, on record label Island. The End. is her collaboration with John Cale and second with him as producer. It carries the same harmonium-based sound heard on The Marble Index and Desertshore, with the addition of Brian Enos synthesizers and electronic instruments. The song You Forget to Answer tells of the misery felt by Nico when she failed to reach ex-lover, the album was her first since Morrisons death in 1971. All but two of the songs on the album were written by Nico, the cover of the Doors The End, Brian Eno plays synthesizer on It Has Not Taken Long, You Forgot to Answer and Innocent and Vain. The front and back covers feature stills from the Philippe Garrel film Les hautes solitudes in which Nico appears, the End. was released in November 1974, on record label Island, her only album on the label. Despite strong reviews, like its predecessors, it was not a commercial success and it was her last studio album until she found a deal with Aura to release Drama of Exile in 1981. All tracks written by Nico, except as noted, note, The original CD edition of the album erroneously cuts off the song You Forget To Answer about ten seconds early. The deluxe 2CD remastered edition corrects this error
36.
Herbert Tobias
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Herbert Tobias was a German photographer who first became well known for his fashion photography during the 1950s. His portrait studies, his photographs of Russia during World War II and he died from AIDS, one of the first well-known people in Germany to do so. Herbert Tobias was born in Dessau, the son of a gunmaker and he taught himself photography from the age of ten. His ambition was to become an actor, but the death of his father in 1936 prevented him. After some time as a surveyor in Höxter Tobias was called up to the Wehrmacht in 1942 and sent to the Russian Front, shortly before the end of the war he deserted and was captured by the Americans on the Western Front. He was released at the end of 1945, after attending a stage school in Siegburg he obtained an engagement with the touring theatre company Niedersachsen-Bühne. In 1948, while staying in the area of Heidelberg he fell in love with, and began a relationship with, in 1950 both men were denounced under §175 of the German Criminal Code, and moved to Paris. There Tobias met the famous German photographer Willy Maywald, for whom he worked as a retoucher, in 1953 Tobias first pictures appeared in Vogue. In the same year, after resisting arrest during a raid on a gay establishment, he was thrown out of France. After moving to Berlin he had his first solo exhibition, in November 1954, also in Berlin he discovered the singer Nico, later famous with The Velvet Underground, and launched her career as a photographic model. Through publication of his work in many high-class magazines Herbert Tobias had become by 1956 an established figure in German fashion, however, from about 1960 Tobias found it increasingly difficult to deal with the discipline of the fashion world and his commissions fell off significantly. In 1966 he turned back to acting and took roles in theatre, in 1969, after moving to Hamburg-Altona, he was only able to support himself with financial assistance from friends and from a few commissions for album covers from Deutsche Grammophon. From 1972 his pictures started to appear in various gay magazines, in 1981 there were highly praised exhibitions of his work in Amsterdam and Berlin. This late recognition and the planning of a book of photos caused him to have his old negatives copied and he fell seriously ill in February 1982 and died on 17 August of the same year, one of the first high-profile victims of AIDS in Germany. He was buried in Altona Cemetery, in 2007 his grave was declared an Ehrengrab by the Hamburg Senate, blicke und Begehren, Der Fotograf Herbert Tobias, ed. Ulrich Domröse, Steidl, Göttingen 2008. ISBN 978-3-86521-605-2 Fotografien aus der Sammlung Pali Meller Marcovicz, Aachen 1996, ISBN 3-89086-813-4 Fotografien 1950 –1980, ed. Photographien 1951 –1960, ed. Janos Frecot, Berlin 1994, ISBN 3-89479-055-5 Herbert Tobias Photographien, Stuttgart, 2nd edn. ISBN 3-88059-285-3 Die Stellung der deutschen Literatur in den achtziger Jahren, Der Photograph Herbert Tobias, Nr 18/19, Verlag Vis-à-Vis 1984, ISBN3924040176 Vom New Look zum Petticoat
37.
Nikos Papatakis
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Nikos Papatakis was a Greek- Ethiopian-born naturalised French filmmaker, who lived in France. He was born in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia and spent his years between Ethiopia and Greece. In 1939 he established himself in Paris and worked as an extra in films, eventually, he owned the famous Parisian club La Rose Rouge where performers included singer Juliette Greco. He was married to actress Anouk Aimée from 1951 to 1954 and from whom he had a daughter, Manuela Papatakis and he was then married to actress Olga Karlatos from 1967 to 1982, from whom he had a son, Serge Papatakis, born in 1967. In 1957, Papatakis moved to New York City, met John Cassavetes, in 1963, his first film, Les Abysses, enjoyed a Succès de scandale and was entered into the 1963 Cannes Film Festival which refused to show it. It was based on Jean Genets The Slaves, in 1967, he directed another daring film, Oi Voskoi. During the Algerian War he was active in the Front de Liberation National and he returned to filmmaking in 1987 with a film in Greek, I Photografia. His last movie was Walking a Tightrope and he died in Paris on 17 December 2010. Legend has it that the photographer Herbert Tobias nicknamed the model, later singer, Nico, after Nico Papatakis. Gloria mundi Les Équilibristes, Walking a Tightrope I Photographia, La Photo, The Photograph Gloria mundi Oi Voskoi, Les Pâtres du désordre, Thanos and Despina, The Shepherds of Calamity. Les Abysses As actor, only The Red Rose Nikos Papatakis at the Internet Movie Database Nikos Papatakis obituary, Nicos Bio résumé
38.
Paris
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Paris is the capital and most populous city of France. It has an area of 105 square kilometres and a population of 2,229,621 in 2013 within its administrative limits, the agglomeration has grown well beyond the citys administrative limits. By the 17th century, Paris was one of Europes major centres of finance, commerce, fashion, science, and the arts, and it retains that position still today. The aire urbaine de Paris, a measure of area, spans most of the Île-de-France region and has a population of 12,405,426. It is therefore the second largest metropolitan area in the European Union after London, the Metropole of Grand Paris was created in 2016, combining the commune and its nearest suburbs into a single area for economic and environmental co-operation. Grand Paris covers 814 square kilometres and has a population of 7 million persons, the Paris Region had a GDP of €624 billion in 2012, accounting for 30.0 percent of the GDP of France and ranking it as one of the wealthiest regions in Europe. The city is also a rail, highway, and air-transport hub served by two international airports, Paris-Charles de Gaulle and Paris-Orly. Opened in 1900, the subway system, the Paris Métro. It is the second busiest metro system in Europe after Moscow Metro, notably, Paris Gare du Nord is the busiest railway station in the world outside of Japan, with 262 millions passengers in 2015. In 2015, Paris received 22.2 million visitors, making it one of the top tourist destinations. The association football club Paris Saint-Germain and the rugby union club Stade Français are based in Paris, the 80, 000-seat Stade de France, built for the 1998 FIFA World Cup, is located just north of Paris in the neighbouring commune of Saint-Denis. Paris hosts the annual French Open Grand Slam tennis tournament on the red clay of Roland Garros, Paris hosted the 1900 and 1924 Summer Olympics and is bidding to host the 2024 Summer Olympics. The name Paris is derived from its inhabitants, the Celtic Parisii tribe. Thus, though written the same, the name is not related to the Paris of Greek mythology. In the 1860s, the boulevards and streets of Paris were illuminated by 56,000 gas lamps, since the late 19th century, Paris has also been known as Panam in French slang. Inhabitants are known in English as Parisians and in French as Parisiens and they are also pejoratively called Parigots. The Parisii, a sub-tribe of the Celtic Senones, inhabited the Paris area from around the middle of the 3rd century BC. One of the areas major north-south trade routes crossed the Seine on the île de la Cité, this place of land and water trade routes gradually became a town
39.
Vogue (magazine)
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Vogue is an American fashion and lifestyle magazine made up of many components including fashion, beauty, culture, living, and runway. Vogue began as a newspaper in 1892 in the United States. The British Vogue was the first international edition launched in 1916, Turnures intention was to create a publication that celebrated the ceremonial side of life, one that attracts the sage as well as debutante, men of affairs as well as the belle. From its inception, the magazine targeted the new New York upper class, the magazine at this time was primarily concerned with fashion, with coverage of sports and social affairs included for its male readership. Despite the magazines content, it very slowly during this period. Condé Montrose Nast purchased Vogue in 1905 one year before Turnures death and he changed it to a bi-weekly magazine and started Vogue overseas in the 1910s. Under Nast, the magazine shifted its focus to women. The magazines number of publications and profit increased dramatically under Nasts management, by 1911, the Vogue brand had garnered a reputation that it continues to maintain, targeting an elite audience and expanding into the coverage of weddings. According to Condé Naste Russia, after the First World War made deliveries in the Old World impossible, the decision to print in England proved to be successful causing Nast to release the first issue of French Vogue in 1920. The magazines number of subscriptions surged during the Great Depression, during this time, noted critic and former Vanity Fair editor Frank Crowninshield served as its editor, having been moved over from Vanity Fair by publisher Condé Nast. In July of 1932, American Vogue placed its first color photograph on the cover of the magazine, the photograph was taken by photographer Edward Steichen and portrays a woman swimmer holding a beach ball in the air. Nast was responsible for introducing color printing and the two-page spread and he greatly impacted the magazine and turned it into a successful business and the womens magazine we recognize today and greatly increased the sales volumes until his death in 1942. Toward this end, Vogue extended coverage to include East Village boutiques such as Limbo on St, marks Place, as well as including features of downtown personalities such as Andy Warhols Superstar Jane Holzers favorite haunts. Vogue also continued making household names out of models, a practice continued with Suzy Parker, Twiggy, Jean Shrimpton, Lauren Hutton, Veruschka, Marisa Berenson, Penelope Tree. In 1973, Vogue became a monthly publication, under editor-in-chief Grace Mirabella, the magazine underwent extensive editorial and stylistic changes to respond to changes in the lifestyles of its target audience. Mirabella states that she was chosen to change Vogue because women werent interested in reading about or buying clothes that served no purpose in their changing lives and she was selected to make the magazine appeal to the the free, working, liberated woman of the seventies. She changed the magazine by adding text with interviews, arts coverage, when that type of stylihtic ceange f ell out of favor in the 1980s, Mirabella was brutally fired. Her take on it, For a magazine devoted to style, in July of 1988, after Vogue had began to lose ground to a three-year-old upstart Elle, Anna Wintour was named editor-in-chief
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Elle (magazine)
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Elle is a worldwide lifestyle magazine of French origin that focuses on fashion, beauty, health, and entertainment. Elle is also the worlds best-selling fashion magazine and it was founded by Pierre Lazareff and his wife Hélène Gordon in 1945. The title, in French, means she or her, Elle was founded in France in 1945. In the 1960s, it was considered to not so much reflect fashion as decree it, with 800,000 loyal readers, in 1981, Daniel Filipacchi and Jean-Luc Lagardère purchased Hachette magazines, which included the then-struggling Elle. Elle was then launched in the U. S, the Chinese version of the magazine was published in 1988, and is the only edition which is published twice monthly. In 2007 the website of Elle was launched, among its past editors is Jean-Dominique Bauby, who became known for writing a book after suffering almost total paralysis. Elle is the worlds largest fashion magazine, with 43 international editions in over 60 countries, technologically speaking, the Elle brand is a global network encompassing over 33 websites. Subscriptions account for 73 percent of readers, there are 33 Elle websites globally, which collectively attract over 25 million unique visitors and 370 million page views per month. The magazine reaches over 69 million readers, the vast majority of Elles audience are women between the ages of 18 and 49. Its readers have an age of 34.7 years. Forty percent of the readers are single, and the household income is $69,973. Our readers are young enough to think about life as an adventure and old enough to have the means to live it, said Roberta Myers, the first international edition of Elle was launched in Japan in 1969. Then, its U. S. and UK editions were launched in 1985, next year, the magazine was first published in Spain. In 1987, Elle began to be published in Hong Kong, in 1988, the magazine was launched in six countries, namely Germany, Brazil, China, Sweden, Greece and Portugal. Next year it was first published in the Netherlands and Quebec, in 1990, the magazine was started in Australia and Taiwan. Its Russian edition, published monthly, was launched in 1996, Elle is owned by the Lagardère Group of France. It is published in the U. S, in China, the publisher is Shanghai Translation Publishing House. And in India its owned and published by Ogaan Publications Pvt, in December 2013, Elle hired Randy Minor as design director
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Coco Chanel
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Gabrielle Bonheur Coco Chanel was a French fashion designer and businesswoman. She was the founder and namesake of the Chanel brand, a prolific fashion creator, Chanel extended her influence beyond couture clothing, realising her design aesthetic in jewellery, handbags, and fragrance. 5, has become an iconic product and she is the only fashion designer listed on TIME magazines list of the 100 most influential people of the 20th century. Chanel designed her iconic interlocked-CC monograph, meaning Coco Chanel, using it since the 1920s, Chanel was known for her lifelong determination, ambition, and energy which she applied to her professional and social life. She achieved both financial success as a businesswoman and catapulted to prominence in French high society, thanks to the connections she made through her work. These included many artists and craftspeople to whom she became a patron and her social connections appeared to encourage a highly conservative personal outlook. One of Chanels lovers was a German military officer, Hans Gunther von Dincklage, after the war ended, Chanel was interrogated about her relationship with von Dincklage, but she was not charged as a collaborator. After several years in Switzerland after the war, she returned to Paris, in 2011, Hal Vaughan published a book on Chanel based on newly declassified documents of that era, revealing that she had collaborated with Germans in intelligence activities. One plan in late 1943 was for her to carry an SS separate peace overture to British Prime Minister Winston Churchill to end the war and she was Jeannes second child with Albert Chanel, the first, Julia, was born less than a year earlier. Albert Chanel was an itinerant street vendor who peddled work clothes and undergarments, living a life, traveling to. The family resided in rundown lodgings, in 1884, he married Jeanne Devolle, persuaded to do so by her family who had united, effectively, to pay Albert to marry her. At birth, Chanels name was entered into the registry as Chasnel. Jeanne was too unwell to attend the registration, and Albert was registered as travelling, with both parents absent, the infants last name was misspelled, probably due to a clerical error. The couple had five children who survived—two boys and three girls—who lived crowded into a lodging in the town of Brive-la-Gaillarde. When Gabrielle was 12, her mother died of bronchitis at the age of 32 and her father sent his two sons out to work as farm laborers and sent his three daughters to the Corrèze, in central France, to the convent of Aubazine, which ran an orphanage. Its religious order, the Congregation of the Sacred Heart of Mary, was founded to care for the poor and rejected and it was a stark, frugal life, demanding strict discipline. Despite the tragedy of this, being placed in the orphanage may have been the best thing for Coco’s future because it is where she learned to sew. At age eighteen, Chanel, too old to remain at Aubazine, later in her life, Chanel would retell the story of her childhood somewhat differently, she would often include more glamorous accounts, which were generally untrue
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Spanish language
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Spanish —also called Castilian —is a Romance language that originated in the Castile region of Spain, with hundreds of millions of native speakers around the world. It is usually considered the worlds second-most spoken native language after Mandarin Chinese and it is one of the few languages to use inverted question and exclamation marks. Spanish is a part of the Ibero-Romance group of languages, which evolved from several dialects of Vulgar Latin in Iberia after the collapse of the Western Roman Empire in the 5th century. Beginning in the early 16th century, Spanish was taken to the colonies of the Spanish Empire, most notably to the Americas, as well as territories in Africa, Oceania, around 75% of modern Spanish is derived from Latin. Greek has also contributed substantially to Spanish vocabulary, especially through Latin, Spanish vocabulary has been in contact from an early date with Arabic, having developed during the Al-Andalus era in the Iberian Peninsula. With around 8% of its vocabulary being Arabic in origin, this language is the second most important influence after Latin and it has also been influenced by Basque as well as by neighboring Ibero-Romance languages. It also adopted words from languages such as Gothic language from the Visigoths in which many Spanish names and surnames have a Visigothic origin. Spanish is one of the six languages of the United Nations. It is the language in the world by the number of people who speak it as a mother tongue, after Mandarin Chinese. It is estimated more than 437 million people speak Spanish as a native language. Spanish is the official or national language in Spain, Equatorial Guinea, speakers in the Americas total some 418 million. In the European Union, Spanish is the tongue of 8% of the population. Spanish is the most popular second language learned in the United States, in 2011 it was estimated by the American Community Survey that of the 55 million Hispanic United States residents who are five years of age and over,38 million speak Spanish at home. The Spanish Constitution of 1978 uses the term castellano to define the language of the whole Spanish State in contrast to las demás lenguas españolas. Article III reads as follows, El castellano es la lengua española oficial del Estado, las demás lenguas españolas serán también oficiales en las respectivas Comunidades Autónomas. Castilian is the official Spanish language of the State, the other Spanish languages as well shall be official in their respective Autonomous Communities. The Spanish Royal Academy, on the hand, currently uses the term español in its publications. Two etymologies for español have been suggested, the Spanish Royal Academy Dictionary derives the term from the Provençal word espaignol, and that in turn from the Medieval Latin word Hispaniolus, from—or pertaining to—Hispania
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