In fluid dynamics, a Stokes wave is a nonlinear and periodic surface wave on an inviscid fluid layer of constant mean depth. This type of modelling has its origins in the mid 19th century when Sir Geo
Waves in the Kelvin wake pattern generated by a ship on the Maas–Waalkanaal in The Netherlands. The transverse waves in this Kelvin wake pattern are nearly plane Stokes waves.
NOAA ship Delaware II in bad weather on Georges Bank. While these ocean waves are random, and not Stokes waves (in the strict sense), they indicate the typical sharp crests and flat troughs as found in nonlinear surface gravity waves.
In fluid dynamics, a cnoidal wave is a nonlinear and exact periodic wave solution of the Korteweg–de Vries equation. These solutions are in terms of the Jacobi elliptic function cn, which is why they
Stokes wave
…to depth) – and using only a few terms in the Stokes expansion – its applicability is limited to waves of small amplitude. In such shallow water, a cnoidal wave theory often provides better periodic-wave approximations. While, in the strict sense, Stokes wave refers to a progressive periodic wave of permanent…
US Army bombers flying over near-periodic swell in shallow water, close to the Panama coast (1933). The sharp crests and very flat troughs are characteristic for cnoidal waves.
Crossing swells, consisting of near-cnoidal wave trains. Photo taken from Phares des Baleines (Whale Lighthouse) at the western point of Île de Ré (Isle of Rhé), France, in the Atlantic Ocean.