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Surf zone
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The surf zone or breaker zone is the nearshore part of a body of open water between the line at which the waves break and the shore. As ocean surface waves approach a shore, they interact with the bot
Rip current in the ocean. Rip currents are often very difficult to spot with one's bare eyes, take caution in any body of water
Rip current in the ocean. Rip currents are often very difficult to spot with one's bare eyes, take caution in any body of water
Fernando noronha
Fernando noronha
Swash
Videos
Swash, or forewash in geography, is a turbulent layer of water that washes up on the beach after an incoming wave has broken. The swash action can move beach materials up and down the beach, which res
Surf zone
…zone, the waves (now reduced in height) continue to move in, and they run up onto the sloping front of the beach, forming an uprush of water called swash. The water then runs back again as backwash. The water in the surf zone is relatively shallow, depending on the height and period of the waves. The…
Swash
Swash
Figure 1. Beach classification by Wright and Short (1983) showing dissipative, intermediate, and reflective beaches.
Figure 1. Beach classification by Wright and Short (1983) showing dissipative, intermediate, and reflective beaches.
Figure 2. Swash zone and beachface morphology showing terminology and principal processes (Modified from Masselink & Hughes 2003)
Figure 2. Swash zone and beachface morphology showing terminology and principal processes (Modified from Masselink & Hughes 2003)
Figure 3. Beach cusp morphology. Uprush diverges at the cusp horns and backwash converges in the cusp embayments. (Modified from Masselink & Hughes 20
Figure 3. Beach cusp morphology. Uprush diverges at the cusp horns and backwash converges in the cusp embayments. (Modified from Masselink & Hughes 2003)