1.
Pierre Balmain
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Pierre Alexandre Claudius Balmain was a French fashion designer and founder of leading post-war fashion house Balmain. Known for sophistication and elegance, he described the art of dressmaking as the architecture of movement, Balmains father, who died when the future designer was seven years old, was the owner of a wholesale drapery business. His mother Françoise ran a boutique called Galeries Parisiennes with her sisters. He went to school at Chambéry and, during weekends with his uncle in the spa town of Aix-les-Bains, Balmain began studying architecture at the École des Beaux-Arts in 1933, also undertaking freelance work drawing for the designer Robert Piguet. After visiting the studio of Edward Molyneux in 1934, he was offered a job, leaving his studies and he joined Lucien Lelong during World War II – where he met the young designer Christian Dior. Pierre Balmain died of cancer at the American Hospital of Paris. He was 68 years old and had just completed the sketches for his fall collection and his companion was the Danish designer Erik Mortensen, who worked as a designer at Balmain from 1948 until 1991. Margit Brandt worked as a designer with Pierre Balmain in the early 1960s. Balmain also spotted the talent of Karl Lagerfeld, hiring him in 1954 after judging a fashion competition that the young German designer won, the fashion house of Balmain opened in 1945. Initially it showcased long bell-shaped skirts with small waists – a post-war style that was popularised in 1947 as Diors New Look, the first collection was showcased in Vogue in the November issue and the reviewers reaction was that Balmain delivered, beautiful clothes that you really want to wear. A positive write-up in the magazine from Balmains friend Gertrude Stein helped to seal the designers success – early celebrity fans included the Duchess of Windsor who ordered from the collection. Balmain was active in promoting himself internationally from the early days – touring Australia in 1947 and he expanded operations to the United States in 1951, selling ready-to-wear clothes that earned him a prestigious Neiman Marcus Fashion Award in 1955. He was, by stage, designing clothes worn by Vojislav Stanimirovic and stars, such as Marlene Dietrich. Such was Balmains reputation that he was chosen to design the wardrobe of Queen Sirikit of Thailand during her 1960 tour of the United States. In 1968, he created outfits for the 1968 Winter Olympics in Grenoble, air Frances first female pilot in 1975 wore a uniform by Balmain Erik Mortensen, a student of the Danish designer Holger Blum, began as a design assistant at Balmain in 1948. He and Balmain worked well together, and Mortensen quickly went from assistant to collaborator and he and Balmain worked together for the rest of Balmains life. Margit Brandt worked as a designer with Pierre Balmain in the early 1960s. Balmain also spotted the talent of Karl Lagerfeld, hiring him in 1954 after judging a fashion competition that the young Austrian designer won, Balmain was nominated for the Tony Award for Best Costume Design and won the Drama Desk Award for Outstanding Costume Design for Happy New Year
2.
Ruth Ford (actress)
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Ruth Ford was an American model and stage and film actress. Her brother was the bohemian surrealist Charles Henri Ford and their parents managed the Tennessee Hotel in Clarksville, Tennessee. As a model she posed for Harpers, Town and Country and she married actor Peter Van Eyck in the 1940s, but the marriage was unsuccessful. Van Eyck was the father of her daughter, Shelley, who was born in 1941. Prior to Fords trip west to Hollywood she was a member of Orson Welles Mercury Theatre, and appeared in his film Too Much Johnson, Welles assistance helped her to land contracts with Columbia Pictures and Warner Bros. studios. She starred in the 1976 Broadway play Poor Murderer, Ford married film star Zachary Scott and they remained together until Scotts death in 1965. Scott adopted Shelley, who took the name Shelley Scott, Zachary Scott reportedly died penniless except for a $100,000 insurance policy he left for his widow. One of the apartments had belonged to her brother Charles, who predeceased her and she bequeathed the apartments to her cook/butler, Indra Tamang, a Nepalese-American whom Charles Henri Ford had brought to New York. Fords daughter and grandchildren were reportedly disinherited, oh, Errol Flynn, Ive never had the yen. Dont know him well but believe Dorothy Parker, a friend of mine, summed it up well when she said. My favorite actor of course is Orson Welles, hes wonderful, magnificent, a darling, and I adore him. Hes just as nice as he can be and looks just the same all the time, shes just as beautiful and natural off the screen as she is on and is admired by everyone. But one of the nicest people in Hollywood is William Faulkner, who I had known in Mississippi when I was getting my Masters Degree in Philosophy at the University there
3.
Carl Van Vechten
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Carl Van Vechten was an American writer and artistic photographer who was a patron of the Harlem Renaissance and the literary executor of Gertrude Stein. Born in Cedar Rapids, Iowa, he was the youngest child of Charles and he graduated from Washington High School in 1898, and later the University of Chicago in 1903. In 1906, he moved to New York City and he was hired as the assistant music critic at The New York Times. His interest in opera had him take a leave of absence from the paper in 1907, while in England he married his long-time friend from Cedar Rapids, Anna Snyder. He returned to his job at the New York Times in 1909, at that time, Isadora Duncan, Anna Pavlova, and Loie Fuller were performing in New York City. The marriage to Anna Snyder ended in divorce in 1912 and he wed actress Fania Marinoff in 1914 and their marriage lasted until the end of his life, even while his relationships with men were an open secret. They continued corresponding for the remainder of Steins life, and at her death she appointed Van Vechten her literary executor, several books of Van Vechtens essays on various subjects such as music and literature were published between 1915 and 1920. Van Vechtens controversial novel Nigger Heaven was published in 1926 and his essay Negro Blues Singers was published in Vanity Fair in 1926. Biographer Edward White suggests Van Vechten was convinced that Negro culture was the essence of America, by the start of the 1930s and at age 50, Van Vechten was finished with writing and took up photography, using his apartment at 150 West 55th Street as a studio. After the 1930s Van Vechten published little writing, though he continued writing letters to many correspondents, Van Vechten died in 1964, at the age of 84, in New York City. Most of Van Vechtens personal papers are held by the Beinecke Rare Book, the Beinecke Library also holds a collection titled Living Portraits, Carl Van Vechtens Color Photographs Of African Americans, 1939–1964, a collection of 1,884 color Kodachrome slides. The Library of Congress has a collection of approximately 1,400 photographs, there is also a collection of Van Vechtens photographs in the Prentiss Taylor collection in the Smithsonians Archives of American Art, and a Van Vechten collection at Fisk University. The Museum of the City of New Yorks collection includes 2,174 of Carl Van Vechtens photographs, brandeis Universitys department of Archives & Special Collections holds 1,689 Carl Van Vechten portraits. Van Vechten also donated materials to Fisk University to form the George Gershwin Memorial Collection of Music, the album ’O, Write My Name’, American Portraits, Harlem Heroes was completed in 1983. That year, the National Endowment for the Arts transferred the Eakins Press Foundation’s prototype albums to the permanent collection of the Smithsonian American Art Museum, dust Tracks on a Road, An Autobiography. Guide to the Carl Van Vechten papers, 1833–1965, manuscripts and Archives, New York Public Library. Carl Van Vechten collection of papers, 1911–1964, berg Collection of English and American Literature, New York Public Library
4.
Clothing
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Clothing is fiber and textile material worn on the body. The wearing of clothing is mostly restricted to human beings and is a feature of all human societies. The amount and type of clothing worn depends on type, social. Some clothing types can be gender-specific, physically, clothing serves many purposes, it can serve as protection from the elements, and can enhance safety during hazardous activities such as hiking and cooking. It protects the wearer from rough surfaces, rash-causing plants, insect bites, splinters, thorns, Clothes can insulate against cold or hot conditions. Further, they can provide a barrier, keeping infectious. Clothing also provides protection from ultraviolet radiation, there is no easy way to determine when clothing was first developed, but some information has been inferred by studying lice. The body louse specifically lives in clothing, and diverge from head lice about 170 millennia ago, another theory is that modern humans are the only survivors of several species of primates who may have worn clothes and that clothing may have been used as long ago as 650 millennia. Other louse-based estimates put the introduction of clothing at around 42, the most obvious function of clothing is to improve the comfort of the wearer, by protecting the wearer from the elements. In hot climates, clothing provides protection from sunburn or wind damage, shelter usually reduces the functional need for clothing. For example, coats, hats, gloves, and other layers are normally removed when entering a warm home. Similarly, clothing has seasonal and regional aspects, so that thinner materials, Clothing performs a range of social and cultural functions, such as individual, occupational and gender differentiation, and social status. In many societies, norms about clothing reflect standards of modesty, religion, gender, Clothing may also function as a form of adornment and an expression of personal taste or style. Clothing can and has in history been made from a wide variety of materials. Materials have ranged from leather and furs, to materials, to elaborate and exotic natural. Not all body coverings are regarded as clothing, Clothing protects against many things that might injure the uncovered human body. Clothes protect people from the elements, including rain, snow, wind, however, clothing that is too sheer, thin, small, tight, etc. offers less protection. Clothes also reduce risk during activities such as work or sport, some clothing protects from specific environmental hazards, such as insects, noxious chemicals, weather, weapons, and contact with abrasive substances
5.
Luxury goods
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Luxury goods are often synonymous with superior goods and Veblen goods. Luxury goods are said to have high income elasticity of demand, as people become wealthier and this also means, however, that should there be a decline in income its demand will drop. Income elasticity of demand is not constant with respect to income, although the technical term luxury good is independent of the goods quality, they are generally considered to be goods at the highest end of the market in terms of quality and price. Classic luxury goods include haute couture clothing, accessories, and luggage, many markets have a luxury segment including, for example, automobile, yacht, wine, bottled water, coffee, tea, foods, watches, clothes, jewelry, and high fidelity. The hiring of full-time or live-in domestic servants is a luxury reflecting disparities of income, some financial services, especially in some brokerage houses, can be considered luxury services by default because persons in lower-income brackets generally do not use them. The three dominant trends in the luxury goods market are globalization, consolidation, and diversification. Globalization is a result of the availability of these goods, additional luxury brands. Consolidation involves the growth of big companies and ownership of brands across many segments of luxury products, examples include LVMH, Richemont, and Kering, which dominate the market in areas ranging from luxury drinks to fashion and cosmetics. Leading global consumer companies, such as Procter & Gamble, are attracted to the industry. The luxury goods market has been on a climb for many years. Apart from the setback caused by the 1997 Asian Financial Crisis, the industry has performed well, particularly in 2000. In that year, the luxury goods market – which includes drinks, fashion, cosmetics, fragrances, watches, jewelry, luggage, handbags – was worth close to $170 billion. The United States has been the largest regional market for goods and is estimated to continue to be the leading personal luxury goods market in 2013. The largest sector in this category was luxury drinks, including premium whisky, Champagne and this sector was the only one that suffered a decline in value. In 2012, China surpassed Japan as the worlds largest luxury market, chinas luxury consumption accounts for over 25% of the global market. The Economist Intelligence Unit published a report on the outlook for luxury goods in Asia which explores the trends and forecasts for the luxury goods market across key markets in Asia. In 2014, the sector is expected to grow over the next 10 years because of 440 million consumers spending a total of 880 billion euros. Secular luxury manuscripts were commissioned by the wealthy and differed in the same ways from cheaper books
6.
Fashion
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Fashion is a popular style or practice, especially in clothing, footwear, accessories, makeup, body, or furniture. Fashion is a distinctive and often constant trend in the style in which a person dresses and it is the prevailing styles in behaviour and the newest creations of textile designers. Although aspects of fashion can be feminine or masculine, some trends are androgynous, early Western travelers, traveling whether to Persia, Turkey, India, or China, would frequently remark on the absence of change in fashion in the respective places. The Japanese Shoguns secretary bragged to a Spanish visitor in 1609 that Japanese clothing had not changed in over a thousand years, however, there is considerable evidence in Ming China of rapidly changing fashions in Chinese clothing. Changes in costume took place at times of economic or social change, as occurred in ancient Rome. In 8th-century Moorish Spain, the musician Ziryab introduced to Córdoba sophisticated clothing-styles based on seasonal and daily fashions from his native Baghdad, modified by his own inspiration. Similar changes in fashion occurred in the 11th century in the Middle East following the arrival of the Turks, who introduced clothing styles from Central Asia, the beginning in Europe of continual and increasingly rapid change in clothing styles can be fairly reliably dated. This created the distinctive Western outline of a tailored top worn over leggings or trousers, the pace of change accelerated considerably in the following century, and women and mens fashion, especially in the dressing and adorning of the hair, became equally complex. Art historians are able to use fashion with confidence and precision to date images, often to within five years. These national styles remained very different until a counter-movement in the 17th to 18th centuries imposed similar styles once again, in the 16th century, national differences were at their most pronounced. Ten 16th century portraits of German or Italian gentlemen may show ten entirely different hats, albrecht Dürer illustrated the differences in his actual contrast of Nuremberg and Venetian fashions at the close of the 15th century. Though textile colors and patterns changed from year to year, the cut of a gentlemans coat, by 1800, all Western Europeans were dressing alike, local variation became first a sign of provincial culture and later a badge of the conservative peasant. The Haute house was the established by government for the fashion houses that met the standards of industry. Since then, the idea of the designer as a celebrity in his or her own right has become increasingly dominant. The impact of unisex expands more broadly to various themes in fashion including androgyny, mass-market retail. Fashion weeks are held in cities, where designers exhibit their new clothing collections to audiences. Modern Westerners have a number of choices available in the selection of their clothes. What a person chooses to wear can reflect his or her personality or interests, when people who have high cultural status start to wear new or different clothes, a fashion trend may start
7.
Charles Frederick Worth
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Charles Frederick Worth was an English fashion designer who founded the House of Worth, one of the foremost fashion houses of the 19th and early 20th centuries. He is considered by many historians to be the father of haute couture. Worth is also credited with revolutionising the business of fashion, established in Paris in 1858, his fashion salon soon attracted European royalty, and where they led monied society followed. An innovative designer, he adapted 19th-century dress to make it suited to everyday life. By the end of his career, his house employed 1,200 people. The Metropolitan Museum of Art has said that his aggressive self-promotion earned him the title of the first couturier, certainly, by the 1870s, his name was not just known in court circles, but appeared in womens magazines that were read by wide society. Worth raised the status of dressmaking so that the designer-maker also became arbiter of what women should be wearing. Writing on the history of fashion and, in particular, dandyism, in 2002, George Walden said, Charles Frederick Worth dictated fashion in France a century, Charles Frederick Worth was born on 13 October 1825 in the Lincolnshire market town of Bourne to William and Ann Worth. Some sources say he was their fifth and final child, others say he was the familys third child. Charles’ father was a solicitor – described as dissolute – and left his family in 1836 after ruining its finances, leaving his mother impoverished, at the age of 11, Charles was sent to work in a printers shop. After a year, he moved to London to become an apprentice at the department store of Swan & Edgar in Piccadilly, seven years later, Lewis & Allenby, another leading British textiles store, employed Worth. In 1846, Charles Frederick Worth moved to Paris and he arrived there speaking no French and with £5 in his pocket. It was here that he met Marie Vernet, who became his wife in 1851, Worth began sewing dresses to complement the shawls at Gagelin. Initially, these were designs, but his expert tailoring caught the eye of the stores clients. Eventually, Gagelin granted Worth permission to open a dress department, at the Paris exposition he had displayed a white silk court train embroidered in gold. With a wife and two sons, Gaston Lucien and Jean Philippe, Worth was eager to establish himself, by this stage, he was a known name. He acquired a young Swedish business partner, Otto Gustaf Bobergh, Marie Vernet Worth played a key role from the start, both in the selling of the clothes and in introducing many new customers. In her memoirs, de Metternich commented, And so. Worth was made and I was lost, Worth offered a new approach to the creation of couture dresses, offering a plethora of fabrics and expertise in tailoring
8.
Paris
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Paris is the capital and most populous city of France. It has an area of 105 square kilometres and a population of 2,229,621 in 2013 within its administrative limits, the agglomeration has grown well beyond the citys administrative limits. By the 17th century, Paris was one of Europes major centres of finance, commerce, fashion, science, and the arts, and it retains that position still today. The aire urbaine de Paris, a measure of area, spans most of the Île-de-France region and has a population of 12,405,426. It is therefore the second largest metropolitan area in the European Union after London, the Metropole of Grand Paris was created in 2016, combining the commune and its nearest suburbs into a single area for economic and environmental co-operation. Grand Paris covers 814 square kilometres and has a population of 7 million persons, the Paris Region had a GDP of €624 billion in 2012, accounting for 30.0 percent of the GDP of France and ranking it as one of the wealthiest regions in Europe. The city is also a rail, highway, and air-transport hub served by two international airports, Paris-Charles de Gaulle and Paris-Orly. Opened in 1900, the subway system, the Paris Métro. It is the second busiest metro system in Europe after Moscow Metro, notably, Paris Gare du Nord is the busiest railway station in the world outside of Japan, with 262 millions passengers in 2015. In 2015, Paris received 22.2 million visitors, making it one of the top tourist destinations. The association football club Paris Saint-Germain and the rugby union club Stade Français are based in Paris, the 80, 000-seat Stade de France, built for the 1998 FIFA World Cup, is located just north of Paris in the neighbouring commune of Saint-Denis. Paris hosts the annual French Open Grand Slam tennis tournament on the red clay of Roland Garros, Paris hosted the 1900 and 1924 Summer Olympics and is bidding to host the 2024 Summer Olympics. The name Paris is derived from its inhabitants, the Celtic Parisii tribe. Thus, though written the same, the name is not related to the Paris of Greek mythology. In the 1860s, the boulevards and streets of Paris were illuminated by 56,000 gas lamps, since the late 19th century, Paris has also been known as Panam in French slang. Inhabitants are known in English as Parisians and in French as Parisiens and they are also pejoratively called Parigots. The Parisii, a sub-tribe of the Celtic Senones, inhabited the Paris area from around the middle of the 3rd century BC. One of the areas major north-south trade routes crossed the Seine on the île de la Cité, this place of land and water trade routes gradually became a town
9.
Fashion capital
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It has also been noted that the status of a fashion capital has become increasingly linked to a citys domestic and international profile. Fashion capitals are also likely be part of a wider design scene, with schools, fashion magazines. Often the term capital is used to describe the cities that hold fashion weeks, most prominently Paris, Milan, London and New York. Also various other cities host notable fashion events and are influential in global fashion, historically, several cities have been, in turn, fashion capitals. Progressing into the century, with influence of the English Royal Court. Similarly, due to the power of Spain at the period, in the 17th century, as the Renaissance started to fade away, with the power of the French court under Louis XIV, Paris established itself as Europes main fashion centre. During the 19th century, with the powerful British Empire and a young Queen Victoria on the throne, during the Golden Twenties, Berlin was considered the vanguard fashion capital. During the 1950s Italy rose in prominence again, florence re-emerged as a leading city in fashion, although focus shifted to Milan from the 1970s on as leading design houses moved to the city. The fashion was radically different in both its use of textiles and in the way designers cut and draped, more recently, new fashion hubs have emerged worldwide, and the old order has faced challenges from all corners of the globe, including Africa, Australasia and South America. Since 2007, Berlin has again been highlighted as an important centre for global fashion trends. An annual ranking of the fashion capitals is produced by Global Language Monitor. The 2016 top-fifty six fashion capitals, according to its rankings, are listed below, fashion week, for a partial list of cities with fashion weeks
10.
London
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London /ˈlʌndən/ is the capital and most populous city of England and the United Kingdom. Standing on the River Thames in the south east of the island of Great Britain and it was founded by the Romans, who named it Londinium. Londons ancient core, the City of London, largely retains its 1. 12-square-mile medieval boundaries. London is a global city in the arts, commerce, education, entertainment, fashion, finance, healthcare, media, professional services, research and development, tourism. It is crowned as the worlds largest financial centre and has the fifth- or sixth-largest metropolitan area GDP in the world, London is a world cultural capital. It is the worlds most-visited city as measured by international arrivals and has the worlds largest city airport system measured by passenger traffic, London is the worlds leading investment destination, hosting more international retailers and ultra high-net-worth individuals than any other city. Londons universities form the largest concentration of education institutes in Europe. In 2012, London became the first city to have hosted the modern Summer Olympic Games three times, London has a diverse range of people and cultures, and more than 300 languages are spoken in the region. Its estimated mid-2015 municipal population was 8,673,713, the largest of any city in the European Union, Londons urban area is the second most populous in the EU, after Paris, with 9,787,426 inhabitants at the 2011 census. The citys metropolitan area is the most populous in the EU with 13,879,757 inhabitants, the city-region therefore has a similar land area and population to that of the New York metropolitan area. London was the worlds most populous city from around 1831 to 1925, Other famous landmarks include Buckingham Palace, the London Eye, Piccadilly Circus, St Pauls Cathedral, Tower Bridge, Trafalgar Square, and The Shard. The London Underground is the oldest underground railway network in the world, the etymology of London is uncertain. It is an ancient name, found in sources from the 2nd century and it is recorded c.121 as Londinium, which points to Romano-British origin, and hand-written Roman tablets recovered in the city originating from AD 65/70-80 include the word Londinio. The earliest attempted explanation, now disregarded, is attributed to Geoffrey of Monmouth in Historia Regum Britanniae and this had it that the name originated from a supposed King Lud, who had allegedly taken over the city and named it Kaerlud. From 1898, it was accepted that the name was of Celtic origin and meant place belonging to a man called *Londinos. The ultimate difficulty lies in reconciling the Latin form Londinium with the modern Welsh Llundain, which should demand a form *lōndinion, from earlier *loundiniom. The possibility cannot be ruled out that the Welsh name was borrowed back in from English at a later date, and thus cannot be used as a basis from which to reconstruct the original name. Until 1889, the name London officially applied only to the City of London, two recent discoveries indicate probable very early settlements near the Thames in the London area
11.
Milan
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Milan is a city in Italy, capital of the Lombardy region, and the most populous metropolitan area and the second most populous comune in Italy. The population of the city proper is 1,351,000, Milan has a population of about 8,500,000 people. It is the industrial and financial centre of Italy and one of global significance. In terms of GDP, it has the largest economy among European non-capital cities, Milan is considered part of the Blue Banana and lies at the heart of one of the Four Motors for Europe. Milan is an Alpha leading global city, with strengths in the arts, commerce, design, education, entertainment, fashion, finance, healthcare, media, services, research, and tourism. Its business district hosts Italys Stock Exchange and the headquarters of the largest national and international banks, the city is a major world fashion and design capital, well known for several international events and fairs, including Milan Fashion Week and the Milan Furniture Fair. The city hosts numerous cultural institutions, academies and universities, with 11% of the national total enrolled students, Milans museums, theatres and landmarks attract over 9 million visitors annually. Milan – after Naples – is the second Italian city with the highest number of accredited stars from the Michelin Guide, the city hosted the Universal Exposition in 1906 and 2015. Milan is home to two of Europes major football teams, A. C. Milan and F. C. Internazionale, the etymology of Milan is uncertain. One theory holds that the Latin name Mediolanum comes from the Latin words medio, however, some scholars believe lanum comes from the Celtic root lan, meaning an enclosure or demarcated territory in which Celtic communities used to build shrines. Hence, Mediolanum could signify the central town or sanctuary of a Celtic tribe, indeed, the name Mediolanum is borne by about sixty Gallo-Roman sites in France, e. g. Saintes and Évreux. Alciato credits Ambrose for his account, around 400 BC, the Celtic Insubres settled Milan and the surrounding region. In 222 BC, the Romans conquered the settlement, renaming it Mediolanum, Milan was eventually declared the capital of the Western Roman Empire by Emperor Diocletian in 286 AD. Diocletian chose to stay in the Eastern Roman Empire and his colleague Maximianus ruled the Western one, immediately Maximian built several monuments, such as a large circus 470 m ×85 m, the Thermae Herculeae, a large complex of imperial palaces and several other buildings. With the Edict of Milan of 313, Emperor Constantine I guaranteed freedom of religion for Christians, after the city was besieged by the Visigoths in 402, the imperial residence was moved to Ravenna. In 452, the Huns overran the city, in 539, the Ostrogoths conquered and destroyed Milan during the Gothic War against Byzantine Emperor Justinian I. In the summer of 569, a Teutonic tribe, the Lombards, conquered Milan, some Roman structures remained in use in Milan under Lombard rule. Milan surrendered to the Franks in 774 when Charlemagne took the title of King of the Lombards, the Iron Crown of Lombardy dates from this period
12.
New York City
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The City of New York, often called New York City or simply New York, is the most populous city in the United States. With an estimated 2015 population of 8,550,405 distributed over an area of about 302.6 square miles. Located at the tip of the state of New York. Home to the headquarters of the United Nations, New York is an important center for international diplomacy and has described as the cultural and financial capital of the world. Situated on one of the worlds largest natural harbors, New York City consists of five boroughs, the five boroughs – Brooklyn, Queens, Manhattan, The Bronx, and Staten Island – were consolidated into a single city in 1898. In 2013, the MSA produced a gross metropolitan product of nearly US$1.39 trillion, in 2012, the CSA generated a GMP of over US$1.55 trillion. NYCs MSA and CSA GDP are higher than all but 11 and 12 countries, New York City traces its origin to its 1624 founding in Lower Manhattan as a trading post by colonists of the Dutch Republic and was named New Amsterdam in 1626. The city and its surroundings came under English control in 1664 and were renamed New York after King Charles II of England granted the lands to his brother, New York served as the capital of the United States from 1785 until 1790. It has been the countrys largest city since 1790, the Statue of Liberty greeted millions of immigrants as they came to the Americas by ship in the late 19th and early 20th centuries and is a symbol of the United States and its democracy. In the 21st century, New York has emerged as a node of creativity and entrepreneurship, social tolerance. Several sources have ranked New York the most photographed city in the world, the names of many of the citys bridges, tapered skyscrapers, and parks are known around the world. Manhattans real estate market is among the most expensive in the world, Manhattans Chinatown incorporates the highest concentration of Chinese people in the Western Hemisphere, with multiple signature Chinatowns developing across the city. Providing continuous 24/7 service, the New York City Subway is one of the most extensive metro systems worldwide, with 472 stations in operation. Over 120 colleges and universities are located in New York City, including Columbia University, New York University, and Rockefeller University, during the Wisconsinan glaciation, the New York City region was situated at the edge of a large ice sheet over 1,000 feet in depth. The ice sheet scraped away large amounts of soil, leaving the bedrock that serves as the foundation for much of New York City today. Later on, movement of the ice sheet would contribute to the separation of what are now Long Island and Staten Island. The first documented visit by a European was in 1524 by Giovanni da Verrazzano, a Florentine explorer in the service of the French crown and he claimed the area for France and named it Nouvelle Angoulême. Heavy ice kept him from further exploration, and he returned to Spain in August and he proceeded to sail up what the Dutch would name the North River, named first by Hudson as the Mauritius after Maurice, Prince of Orange
13.
Tokyo
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Tokyo, officially Tokyo Metropolis, is the capital of Japan and one of its 47 prefectures. The Greater Tokyo Area is the most populous area in the world. It is the seat of the Emperor of Japan and the Japanese government, Tokyo is in the Kantō region on the southeastern side of the main island Honshu and includes the Izu Islands and Ogasawara Islands. Formerly known as Edo, it has been the de facto seat of government since 1603 when Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu made the city his headquarters. It officially became the capital after Emperor Meiji moved his seat to the city from the old capital of Kyoto in 1868, Tokyo Metropolis was formed in 1943 from the merger of the former Tokyo Prefecture and the city of Tokyo. The Tokyo metropolitan government administers the 23 Special Wards of Tokyo, the metropolitan government also administers 39 municipalities in the western part of the prefecture and the two outlying island chains. The population of the wards is over 9 million people. The prefecture is part of the worlds most populous metropolitan area with upwards of 37.8 million people, the city hosts 51 of the Fortune Global 500 companies, the highest number of any city in the world. Tokyo ranked third in the International Financial Centres Development IndexEdit, the city is also home to various television networks such as Fuji TV, Tokyo MX, TV Tokyo, TV Asahi, Nippon Television, NHK and the Tokyo Broadcasting System. Tokyo ranked first in the Global Economic Power Index and fourth in the Global Cities Index. The city is considered a world city – as listed by the GaWCs 2008 inventory – and in 2014. In 2015, Tokyo was named the Most Liveable City in the world by the magazine Monocle, the Michelin Guide has awarded Tokyo by far the most Michelin stars of any city in the world. Tokyo ranked first in the world in the Safe Cities Index, the 2016 edition of QS Best Student Cities ranked Tokyo as the 3rd-best city in the world to be a university student. Tokyo hosted the 1964 Summer Olympics, the 1979 G-7 summit, the 1986 G-7 summit, and the 1993 G-7 summit, and will host the 2020 Summer Olympics, Tokyo was originally known as Edo, which means estuary. During the early Meiji period, the city was also called Tōkei, some surviving official English documents use the spelling Tokei. However, this pronunciation is now obsolete, the name Tokyo was first suggested in 1813 in the book Kondō Hisaku, written by Satō Nobuhiro. When Ōkubo Toshimichi proposed the renaming to the government during the Meiji Restoration, according to Oda Kanshi, Tokyo was originally a small fishing village named Edo, in what was formerly part of the old Musashi Province. Edo was first fortified by the Edo clan, in the twelfth century
14.
Fashion design
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Fashion design is the art of application of design and aesthetics or natural beauty to clothing and accessories. Fashion design is influenced by cultural and social attitudes, and has varied over time, Fashion designers work in a number of ways in designing clothing and accessories such as bracelets and necklace. Because of the required to bring a garment onto the market. Fashion designers attempt to design clothes which are functional as well as aesthetically pleasing and they consider who is likely to wear a garment and the situations in which it will be worn. They have a range and combinations of materials to work with. Though most clothing worn for everyday wear falls within a range of conventional styles. Some clothes are made specifically for an individual, as in the case of haute couture or bespoke tailoring, today, most clothing is designed for the mass market, especially casual and every-day wear are called ready to wear. Fashion designers may work full-time for one house, as in-house designers. They may work alone or as part of a team, freelance designers work for themselves, selling their designs to fashion houses, directly to shops, or to clothing manufacturers. The garments bear the buyers label, some fashion designers set up their own labels, under which their designs are marketed. Some fashion designers are self-employed and design for individual clients, other high-end fashion designers cater to specialty stores or high-end fashion department stores. These designers create original garments, as well as those that follow established fashion trends, most fashion designers, however, work for apparel manufacturers, creating designs of mens, womens, and childrens fashions for the mass market. Fashion designers work in different ways, some sketch their ideas on paper, while others drape fabric on a dress form. Finally, a garment is made up and tested on a model to make sure it is an operational outfit. Fashion design is considered to have started in the 19th century with Charles Frederick Worth who was the first designer to have his label sewn into the garments that he created. Before the former draper set up his maison couture in Paris, clothing design and creation was handled by largely anonymous seamstresses, worths success was such that he was able to dictate to his customers what they should wear, instead of following their lead as earlier dressmakers had done. The term couturier was in fact first created in order to describe him, while all articles of clothing from any time period are studied by academics as costume design, only clothing created after 1858 is considered as fashion design. It was during this period that many design houses began to hire artists to sketch or paint designs for garments, the images were shown to clients, which was much cheaper than producing an actual sample garment in the workroom
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France
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France, officially the French Republic, is a country with territory in western Europe and several overseas regions and territories. The European, or metropolitan, area of France extends from the Mediterranean Sea to the English Channel and the North Sea, Overseas France include French Guiana on the South American continent and several island territories in the Atlantic, Pacific and Indian oceans. France spans 643,801 square kilometres and had a population of almost 67 million people as of January 2017. It is a unitary republic with the capital in Paris. Other major urban centres include Marseille, Lyon, Lille, Nice, Toulouse, during the Iron Age, what is now metropolitan France was inhabited by the Gauls, a Celtic people. The area was annexed in 51 BC by Rome, which held Gaul until 486, France emerged as a major European power in the Late Middle Ages, with its victory in the Hundred Years War strengthening state-building and political centralisation. During the Renaissance, French culture flourished and a colonial empire was established. The 16th century was dominated by civil wars between Catholics and Protestants. France became Europes dominant cultural, political, and military power under Louis XIV, in the 19th century Napoleon took power and established the First French Empire, whose subsequent Napoleonic Wars shaped the course of continental Europe. Following the collapse of the Empire, France endured a succession of governments culminating with the establishment of the French Third Republic in 1870. Following liberation in 1944, a Fourth Republic was established and later dissolved in the course of the Algerian War, the Fifth Republic, led by Charles de Gaulle, was formed in 1958 and remains to this day. Algeria and nearly all the colonies became independent in the 1960s with minimal controversy and typically retained close economic. France has long been a centre of art, science. It hosts Europes fourth-largest number of cultural UNESCO World Heritage Sites and receives around 83 million foreign tourists annually, France is a developed country with the worlds sixth-largest economy by nominal GDP and ninth-largest by purchasing power parity. In terms of household wealth, it ranks fourth in the world. France performs well in international rankings of education, health care, life expectancy, France remains a great power in the world, being one of the five permanent members of the United Nations Security Council with the power to veto and an official nuclear-weapon state. It is a member state of the European Union and the Eurozone. It is also a member of the Group of 7, North Atlantic Treaty Organization, Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development, the World Trade Organization, originally applied to the whole Frankish Empire, the name France comes from the Latin Francia, or country of the Franks
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Paris Chamber of Commerce
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The Paris Chamber of Commerce is a chamber of commerce of the Paris region. It defends the interests of companies of the city of Paris, since 2013 it has been a division of the Paris Île-de-France Regional Chamber of Commerce and Industry. The CCIP was created on 25 February 1803 by Napoleon and is the successor to the Guilds of the Ancien Régime and it was initially located in the préfecture, before transferring to the building now occupied by the Paris Bourse, and then to the Hôtel Potocki. On 1 January 2013 the Paris Île-de-France Regional Chamber of Commerce and Industry was created, combining eight chambers of commerce of the area in, the merger brought together the six departmental CCI and the two territorial CCI. On 1 January 2013 the CCI départementale de Paris was created as a division of the CCI de région Paris Ile-de-France and it has its headquarters at 2 Place de la Bourse and provides operational services at the Bourse de commerce. As of 2015 there were 36 elected officials and a staff of 125 people, the CCI Paris acts as an advocate for business in Paris, and provides support to company creators, marketers and business leaders. The Paris Chamber of Commerce owns many of the citys leading Grandes écoles, the Chambers full list includes many of Frances most famous graduate business schools and engineering schools. Some of the known schools include, École Supérieure dIngénieurs en Électronique et Électrotechnique ESCP Europe HEC Paris ISTM Institut Supérieur de Technologie et de Management
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Chanel
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Chanel S. A. is a French, privately held company owned by Alain and Gérard Wertheimer, grandsons of Pierre Wertheimer, who was an early business partner of the couturière Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel. Chanel S. A. is a fashion house that specializes in haute couture and ready-to-wear clothes, luxury goods. In her youth, Gabrielle Chanel gained the nickname Coco from her time as a chanteuse, the House of Chanel is known for the little black dress, the perfume No.5 de Chanel, and the Chanel Suit. Chanel’s use of jersey fabric produced garments that were comfortable and affordable, Chanel used colors traditionally associated with masculinity in Europe, such as grey and navy blue, to denote feminine boldness of character. An example of haute couture techniques is the woolen Chanel suit — a knee-length skirt. The complementary accessories were two-tone pump shoes and jewellry, usually a necklace of pearls, Coco Chanel thus could sell to them the hats she designed and made, she thus earned a living, independent of her financial sponsor, the socialite Balsan. Despite that social circumstance, Boy Capel perceived the businesswoman innate to Coco Chanel, because that locale already housed a dress shop, the business-lease limited Chanel to selling only millinery products, not couture. The First World War affected European fashion through scarcity of materials, in 1915 and in 1917, Harper’s Bazaar magazine reported that the garments of the House of Chanel were on the list of every buyer for the clothing factories of Europe. After the First World War, the House of Chanel, following the trends of the 1920s, produced beaded dresses. Originally, a bottle of No.5 de Chanel was a gift to clients of Chanel, the popularity of the perfume prompted the House of Chanel to offer it for retail sale in 1922. In 1923, to explain the success of her clothes, Coco Chanel told Harper’s Bazaar magazine that design simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance, business partners — late 1920s The success of the No. To that end, the businessman Théophile Bader introduced the venture capitalist Pierre Wertheimer to Coco Chanel, moreover, by 1937, the House of Chanel had expanded the range of its clothes to more women, and presented prêt-à-porter clothes designed and cut for the petite woman. Among fashion designers only the clothes created by Elsa Schiaparelli could compete with the clothes of Chanel. A. at 31 rue Cambon, meanwhile, because of the Nazi occupation’s official anti-Semitism, Pierre Wertheimer and family, had fled France to the U. S. in mid-1940. Later, in 1941, Coco Chanel attempted to assume control of Parfums Chanel. Occupied France abounded with rumours that Coco Chanel was a Nazi collaborator, her identity was secret agent 7124 of the Abwehr. At War’s end, upon the Allied liberation of France, Chanel was arrested for having collaborated with the Nazis, in Switzerland, the news revived Coco Chanel’s resentment at having been exploited by her business partner, for only ten per cent of the money. So she established a rival Swiss parfumerie to create, produce, in exchange Gabrielle Chanel closed her Swiss parfumerie enterprise, and sold to Parfums Chanel the full rights to the name Coco Chanel. As a post–War fashion that used some 20 yards of fabric, having decided to do business with Coco Chanel, Wertheimer’s negotiations to fund the resurgence of the House of Chanel, granted him commercial rights to all Chanel-brand products
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Karl Lagerfeld
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Karl Otto Lagerfeld is a German fashion designer, artist, and photographer based in Paris. He is the designer and creative director of the fashion house Chanel as well as the Italian house Fendi. Over the decades, he has collaborated on a variety of fashion and he is well recognized around the world for his trademark white hair, black sunglasses, and high starched collars. Lagerfeld was born on 10 September 1933 in Hamburg, Germany and is the son of businessman Otto Lagerfeld and his father owned a company that produced and imported evaporated milk, while his grandfather Karl Bahlmann was a local politician for the Catholic Centre Party. His family belonged to the Old Catholic Church, when she met his father, Lagerfelds mother was a lingerie saleswoman from Berlin. His parents were married in 1930, Lagerfeld is known to misrepresent his birth year, claiming to be younger than his actual age, and to misrepresent his parents background. There is also no evidence that his mother Elisabeth Bahlmann, the daughter of a middle class local politician and he is known to insist that no one knows his real birth date. In an interview on French television in February 2009, Lagerfeld said that he was neither in 1933 nor 1938. In April 2013 he finally declared that he was born in 1935, bild am Sonntag published his baptismal records in 2008 and interviewed his teacher and a classmate, who both confirmed that he was born in 1933. Despite that, Karl Lagerfeld announced publicly that he was celebrating his 70th birthday on 10 September 2008 and his older sister, Martha Christiane Christel, was born in 1931. Lagerfeld has an older half-sister, Thea, from his fathers first marriage and his family name has been spelled both Lagerfeldt and Lagerfeld. Like his father, he uses the spelling Lagerfeld, considering it to more commercial. His family was mainly shielded from the deprivations of World War II due to his fathers interests in Germany through the firm Glücksklee-Milch GmbH. His father was in San Francisco during the 1906 earthquake, after attending a private school, Lagerfeld finished his secondary school at the Lycée Montaigne in Paris, where he majored in drawing and history. Karl Lagerfeld was hired as Pierre Balmains assistant after winning the category in a design competition sponsored by the International Wool Secretariat in 1955. In 1958, after three years at Balmain, he moved to Jean Patou where he designed two haute couture collections per year for five years. His first collection was shown in a presentation in July 1958. Although, in 1962, reporters began referring to him as Karl Lagerfelt or Karl Logerfeld, the first collection was poorly received
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Rose Bertin
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Marie-Jeanne Rose Bertin was a French milliner and dressmaker to Queen Marie Antoinette. She was the first celebrated French fashion designer and is credited with having brought fashion. Bertin came from a family of means, her mother was a sick nurse. She and her brother Jean-Laurent received a modest education but a level of ambition. Rose Bertin moved to Paris, where she was apprenticed to a milliner, Mademoiselle Pagelle, before Marie Antoinette even arrived in France from Austria, she had been schooled in the nuances of galant spoken French and French fashions. She was introduced to Bertin in 1772, twice a week, soon after Louis XVI’s coronation, Bertin would present her newest creations to the young queen and spend hours discussing them. The Queen adored her wardrobe and was passionate about every detail, in the mid-18th century, French women had begun to pouf their hair with pads and pomade and wore oversized luxurious gowns. Bertin used and exaggerated the leading modes of the day, the pouf fashion reached such extremes that it became a period trademark, along with decorating the hair with ornaments and objects which showcased current events. The Queens most famous coif was the inoculation pouf that she wore to publicize her success in persuading the King to be vaccinated against smallpox. Marie Antoinette also asked Bertin to dress dolls in the latest fashions as gifts for her sisters and her mother, Bertins fashion dolls were called Pandores, and were made of wax over jointed wood armatures or porcelain. There were small ones the size of a common toy doll, or large ones as big or half as big as a real person, Fashion dolls as courriers of modes remained in vogue until the appearance of Fashion magazines. Called Minister of Fashion by her detractors, Bertin was the brains behind almost every new dress commissioned by the Queen, dresses and hair became Marie Antoinettes personal vehicles of expression, and Bertin clothed the Queen from 1770 until her dethronement in 1792. Bertin became a figure at court, and she witnessed—and sometimes effected—profound changes in French society. Her large, ostentatious gowns ensured that their wearer occupied at least three times as much space as her counterpart, thus making the female figure an imposing, not passive. Her creations also established France as the center of the fashion industry and this inimitable Parisian elegance established the worldwide reputation of French couture. Bertin is said to have remarked to Marie Antoinette in 1785, under the Queens generous patronage, Bertins name became synonymous with the sartorial elegance and excess of Versailles. Bertins close relationship with the Queen provided valuable background into the social and political significance of fashion at the French court, during Marie Antoinette’s imprisonment, Bertin continued to receive orders from her former prized customer, for much smaller, almost negligible, orders of ribbons and simple alterations. During the French Revolution, when many of her customers were being executed or were fleeing abroad
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Dressmaker
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A dressmaker is a person who makes custom clothing for women, such as dresses, blouses, and evening gowns. Also called a mantua-maker or a modiste, dressmaker in this sense is contrasted to tailored and has fallen out of use since the rise of casual wear in the mid-twentieth century. Mantua-maker, in the century a maker of mantuas, or in general a dressmaker. Modiste, a maker of fashionable clothing and accessories, with the implication that the articles reflect the current Paris fashions. Sewing professional is the most general term for those who make their living by sewing, teaching, writing about sewing and she or he may work out of her home, a studio, or retail shop, and may work part-time or full-time. She or he may be any or all or the following sub-specialities, A custom clothier makes custom garments one at a time, to order, to meet a customers needs. A custom dressmaker specializes in womens apparel, including day dresses, careerwear, suits, evening or bridal wear, sportswear. A tailor makes custom menswear-style jackets and the skirts or trousers that go with them, an alterations specialist or alterationist adjusts the fit of completed garments, usually ready-to-wear, or restyles them. Note that while all tailors can do alterations, by no means can all alterationists do tailoring, designers choose combinations of line, proportion, color, and texture for intended garments. They may have no sewing or patternmaking skills, and may only sketch or conceptualize garments, a wardrobe consultant or fashion advisor recommends styles and colors for a client. A seamstress is someone who sews seams, or in other words and this term is not a synonym for dressmaker. Prior to the Industrial Revolution, a seamstress did handsewing, especially under the putting-out system, older variants are seamster and sempstress. Sewist is a new term, combining the words sew and artist, to describe someone who creates sewn works of art. Bespoke Fashion design Haute couture Tailor Sewing Butterick Publishing Company, The Art of Garment Cutting, Fitting and Making,1894. Deckert, Barbara, Sewing for Plus Sizes, Design, Fit and Construction for Ample Apparel, Taunton,1999, Appendix B, How to Find, Select, kirke, Betty, Madeleine Vionnet, Chronicle Books,1998. Picken, Mary Brooks, The Fashion Dictionary, Funk and Wagnalls,1957
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Bourne, Lincolnshire
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Bourne is a market town and civil parish in the South Kesteven district of Lincolnshire, England. Bourne is situated on the slopes of the Kesteven Uplands. The population taken at the 2001 census was 13,961 increasing to 14,456 at the 2011 census. The town is located on a Roman road now known as King Street and was built around the natural springs and it lies on the intersection of the A15 and the A151 roads. The civil parish includes the main township plus the hamlets of Cawthorpe, Dyke, in former years Austerby was regarded as a separate settlement, with its own shops and street plan, but is now an area of Bourne known as The Austerby. The ecclesiastical parish of Bourne is part of the Beltisloe Deanery of the Diocese of Lincoln and is based at the Abbey Church of St Peter and St Paul, the incumbent is Revd Chris Atkinson. Other religious denominations include Methodist, Baptist, United Reformed and Roman Catholic churches, the towns economy was based on rural industries until the railway opened up a market for bottled mineral water. Although it is focused on agriculture and food preparation for supermarkets, there are also important light engineering. The district has a housing market, with considerable new building taking place in Bourne in the 2000s. The population was 12,000 in the 2001 Census data, there are approximately 5,424 households in Bourne as of 2007. Sugar beet was first grown as an English crop in the Fenland east of Bourne by British Sugar Ltd and it had been developed in Germany and France in the early 19th century. Much of Bournes 19th-century affluence came from the boom that followed the mechanisation of fen drainage. The production of wheat is still important, in the 21st century, hydroponic food production plants have been built on the edge of the fen. Although the Autocast foundry has closed because of the shrinking British car industry, there are a number of machine shops and fabricators in the south. These include Pilbeam Racing in Graham Hill Way and Trackline International, Bourne has two printing companies and manufacturers of double glazing and fibreglass mouldings. In the same area are distribution warehouses for a large brewer and general transport and storage companies, Bourne has two County Council wards, Bourne Abbey, Susan Woolley from 2 May 2013. Bourne Castle, Helen Nunziatina Joan Powell from 2 May 2013, Bourne Town Council has two wards which are identical to the South Kesteven District Council wards. Bourne East elects seven councillors to the council and Bourne West eight
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Clothing industry
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There are considerable overlaps between the terms clothing-/garment-, textile- and fashion industry. The clothing sector is concerned with all types of clothes, from fashion to uniforms, e-textiles, textile industry is less concerned with the fashion aspect but produces the fabrics and fibres that are required for tailoring. The fashion industry closely follows - and sets - fashion trends to always supply the latest in non-functional clothing, by the early 20th century, the industry in the developed world often involved immigrants in sweat shops, which were usually legal but were sometimes illegally operated. They employed people in crowded conditions, working manual sewing machines and this trend worsened due to attempts to protect existing industries which were being challenged by developing countries in South East Asia, the Indian subcontinent and Central America. Areas historically involved heavily in the rag trade include London and Milan in Europe, the garment industry is a major contributor to the economies of many countries. The industry for Ready Made Garments has been criticized by advocates for the use of sweatshops, piece work
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Callot Soeurs
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Callot Soeurs was one of the leading fashion design houses of the 1910s and 1920s. Callot Soeurs opened in 1895 at 24, rue Taitbout in Paris and it was operated by the four Callot sisters, Marie Callot Gerber, Marthe Callot Bertrand, Regina Callot Tennyson-Chantrell and Joséphine Callot Crimont. The sisters were born in France to a Russian family, the eldest sister, Marie, was trained in dressmaking, having earlier worked for Raudnitz and Co. prominent Parisian dressmakers, and they were all taught by their mother, a lacemaker. The sisters began working with antique laces and ribbons to enhance blouses and their success led to an expansion into other clothing. In 1900, they were featured at the Paris World’s Fair and that year, they had a staff of two hundred and did two million francs in sales. By 1901, they had tripled their workforce and doubled their sales, Callot Soeurss day dresses were well-received at the 1915 Universal Exhibition in San Francisco. In 1916, Henri Bendel was the largest buyer of Callot Soeurs in New York City. That same year, American Vogue dubbed the sisters the Three Fates, while European sales fell, American buyers would order between 300 and 800 pieces every July. In response to the proliferation of knockoffs in the 1910s and 1920s, in 1919, Callot Soeurs moved to larger premises at 9-11 Avenue Matignon. In 1920, Marthe Callot Bertrand suddenly died and the widowed Regina Callot Tennyson-Chantrell retired to care for her son, Marie Callot Gerber single-handedly ran the house for the next seven years. In the 1920s, Callot Soeurs established branches in Nice, Biarritz, Buenos Aires, a January 1922 article in Ladies Home Journal claimed that Callot probably has more rich clients than any other establishment in the world. They come from South America, from South Africa, and as far east as Japan, in 1926, the American designer Elizabeth Hawes, while working in Paris, regularly wore Callot Soeurs. Callot Soeurss greatest American supporter was Rita de Acosta Lydig who ordered dozens of dresses at a time, according to her sister Mercedes de Acosta, Rita designed most of her own clothes and they were made for her by Callot Soeurs. Supposedly, Rita was such a plate that when she learned her husband was having an affair with a poorly dressed woman. Rita wore a silver Callot Soeurs dress when she posed for Giovanni Boldini in 1911, Marie Callot Gerber died in 1927. Her obituary in Le Figaro commented, One of the most beautiful figures of the Parisian luxury business has now disappeared, however, World War II made matters difficult in France. Similarly to what happened with the House of Vionnet in 1939, Calvet, the couturier Madeleine Vionnet was head seamstress at Callot. It was here that she refined her technique in couture, Madeleine Vionnet explained that “Without the example of the Callot Soeurs, I would have continued to make Fords
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Jean Patou
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Jean Patou was a French fashion designer and founder of the Jean Patou brand. Patou was born in Normandy, France in 1880, patous familys business was tanning and furs. Patou worked with his uncle in Normandy, then moved to Paris in 1910, in 1912, he opened a small dressmaking salon called Maison Parry. His entire 1914 collection was purchased by a single American buyer, patous work was interrupted by World War I. He was mobilised in August 1914, shortly after the German invasion of Belgium and he, notably, designed the then-daring sleeveless and knee-length cut tennis wear for Suzanne Lenglen. He also was the first designer to popularize the cardigan and moved fashion towards the natural, the designer tie style is still prominent amongst contemporary fashion designers, such as Louis Feraud, Timothy Everest, Duchamp and Paul Smith and Patrick McMurray. In 1925 Patou launched his business with three fragrances created by Henri Alméras. In 1928, Jean Patou created Huile de Chaldée, the first sun tan lotion, patous clothes were marketed mostly to rich American women. When the stock market crashed, however, so did the market for luxury fashion, the House of Patou survived through its perfumes, which remain well known today. Before Joy, the House of Patou released many other perfumes, for example, Normandie celebrated the French ocean liner of the same name, and Vacances celebrated the first French paid national holidays. Other Patou perfumes of the time were Amour Amour, Adieu Sagesse. LHeure Attendue, Divine Folie, Câline, Moment Suprême, Colony, Chaldée, Le Sien, a Jean Patou silk scarf, printed in a pattern complementing that of the box was included with the pure perfume. His sister Madeleine and her husband Raymond Barbas continued the House of Patou, designers for the House of Patou have included Marc Bohan, Karl Lagerfeld and Jean Paul Gaultier. Christian Lacroix joined the label in 1981, the last fashion collection produced by the House of Patou label was in 1987 when the haute couture business closed following Lacroixs departure to open his own house. After the closure of the haute couture business the company has continued to produce fragrances under the Jean Patou brand, Patou also produced fragrances for Lacoste, when Patou acquired the license in the 1960s, and Yohji Yamamoto in the 1990s. From 1967-1999 Jean Kerléo was the house perfumer, he developed all their perfumes during that time including 1000 and Sublime, Patou Pour Homme. ma Collection was sold in flacons modelled after the originals by Louis Süe. Kerleo stepped down in 1999 appointing Jean-Michel Duriez as house perfumer, Duriez creations include Un Amour de Patou, Enjoy and Sira des Indes. Joy was voted Scent of the Century by the public at the Fragrance Foundation FiFi Awards in 2000, beating its rival Chanel No.5
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Paul Poiret
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Paul Poiret was a leading French fashion designer, a master couturier during the first two decades of the 20th century. His contributions to his field have been likened to Picassos legacy in 20th-century art, Poiret was born on 20 April 1879 to a cloth merchant in the poor neighborhood of Les Halles, Paris. His parents, in an effort to rid him of his natural pride, there, he collected scraps of silk left over from the cutting of umbrella patterns, and fashioned clothes for a doll that one of his sisters had given him. While a teenager, Poiret took his sketches to Louise Chéruit, a prominent dressmaker, Poiret continued to sell his drawings to major Parisian couture houses, until he was hired by Jacques Doucet in 1896. His first design, a red cape, sold 400 copies. Poiret later moved to the House of Worth, where he was responsible for designing simple, the brazen modernity of his designs, however, proved too much for Worths conservative clientele. When Poiret presented the Russian Princess Bariatinsky with a Confucius coat with an innovative kimono-like cut, for instance, she exclaimed, What a horror. When there are low fellows who run after our sledges and annoy us, we have their heads cut off, Poiret established his own house in 1903, and made his name with his controversial kimono coat and similar, loose-fitting designs created specifically for an uncorseted, slim figure. He designed flamboyant window displays and threw parties to draw attention to his work. His instinct for marketing and branding was unmatched by any other Parisian designer, in 1909, he was so famous, Margot Asquith, wife of British Prime Minister H. H. Asquith, invited him to show his designs at 10 Downing Street. The cheapest garment at the exhibition was 30 guineas, double the salary of a scullery maid. Poirets house expanded to encompass interior decoration and fragrance, in1911 Poiret unveiled “Parfums de Rosine with a flamboyant soiree held at his palatial home, attended by the cream of Parisian society and the artistic world. Poiret fancifully christened the event “la mille et deuxième nuit”, inspired by the fantasy of a sultans harem and his gardens were illuminated by lanterns, set with tents, and live, tropical birds. Madame Poiret herself luxuriated in a golden cage, Poiret was the reigning sultan, gifting each guest with a bottle of his new fragrance creation, appropriately named to befit the occasion, “Nuit Persane. ”His marketing strategy, played out as entertainment, became the talk of Paris. A second scent debuted in 1912 - “Le Minaret, ” again emphasizing the harem theme, in 1911, publisher Lucien Vogel dared photographer Edward Steichen to promote fashion as a fine art in his work. Steichen responded by snapping photos of gowns designed by Poiret, hauntingly backlit and these were published in the April 1911 issue of the magazine Art et Décoration. However, notable couture names were missing from this brilliant assemblage, including such major tastemakers as Lucile, Jeanne Lanvin, also in 1911, Poiret launched the École Martine, a home decor division of his design house, named for his second daughter. The establishment provided artistically inclined, working-class girls with trade skills, in 1911 Poret leased part of the property at 109 Rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré to his friend Henri Barbazanges, who opened the Galerie Barbazanges to exhibit contemporary art
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Madeleine Vionnet
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Madeleine Vionnet was a French fashion designer. Born in Loiret, France, Vionnet trained in London before returning to France to establish her first fashion house in Paris in 1912. Although it was forced to close in 1914 at the outbreak of the First World War, it re-opened after the war, Vionnet was forced to close her house in 1939 and retired in 1940. Born on 22 June 1876 into a family in Chilleurs-aux-Bois. Having already left school, Vionnet began her apprenticeship at age twelve as a seamstress alongside members of the garde champêtre. After a brief marriage at age 18 – and the loss of her young child – she left her husband, while in London, Vionnet worked as a fitter for Kate Reily. Vionnet eventually returned to Paris, working for six years in the fashion house Callot Soeurs as a toile maker, after a disagreement with a manager of the house, Vionnet threatened to leave her post. She was convinced to stay by the eldest of the Callot sisters, Vionnet later praised Marie Callot Gerber as a great lady and later remarked that without the example of the Callot Soeurs, I would have continued to make Fords. It is because of them that I have been able to make Rolls Royces and her desire for simplicity was ultimately at odds with the characteristic lacy frills of the fashion house. Vionnet designed for Jacques Doucet between 1907 and 1911, but her use of models and design of loose robes clashed with the style of the house. In 1912 she founded her own house, Vionnet, which closed in 1914 owing to the beginning of the First World War. Re-establishing the house in 1923, Vionnet opened new premises on Avenue Montaigne, in 1925, Vionnets fashion house expanded with premises on Fifth Avenue in New York City. She sold designs purchased off the peg and adapted to the wearer, Vionnets vision of the female form revolutionized modern clothing, and the success of her unique cuts assured her reputation. She fought for laws in fashion. She instituted what, at the time, were considered revolutionary labor practices, paid holidays and maternity leave, day-care, a hall. The onset of World War II forced Vionnet to close her house in 1939. Vionnet created some 12,000 garments over the course of her career, there is something superficial and volatile about the seasonal and elusive whims of fashion which offends my sense of beauty. Vionnet was not concerned with being the designer of the moment, alongside Coco Chanel, Vionnet is credited with a move away from stiff, formalised clothing to sleeker, softer clothes
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Mariano Fortuny (designer)
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Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo, was a Spanish fashion designer who opened his couture house in 1906 and continued until 1946. He was the son of the painter Mariano Fortuny y Marsal, Fortuny was born 11 May 1871, to an artistic family in Granada, Spain. His father, a painter, died when Fortuny was three years old and his mother, daughter of another famous painter, Raimundo de Madrazo y Garreta, moved the family to Paris. It became apparent at an age that Fortuny was a talented artist, as he, too. During his childhood he was introduced to many different textiles and fabrics and his parents were very passionate for materials and had their own collections of textiles from various shops they had visited in Europe. His father even collected metalwork and armor from previous ages as a hobby, the family moved again in 1889 to Venice, Italy. As a young man, Fortuny traveled throughout Europe seeking out artists he admired, Fortuny became quite varied in his talents, some of them including inventing, painting, photography, sculpting, architecture, etching and even theatrical stage lighting. In 1897, he met the woman he would marry, Henriette Negrin, in Paris, while in Paris, using all of his creative talents, Fortuny registered and patented more than twenty inventions between 1901 and 1934. He died in his home in Venice and was buried in the Campo Verano in Rome and his work was a source of inspiration to the French novelist Marcel Proust. The life of the Fortuny saga has been depicted in Pere Gimferrers novel Fortuny, in 1892, after seeing some of Richard Wagner’s work in Paris, Fortuny traveled to Bayreuth, Germany where Wagner had built a theater specifically designed to put on his operas. He was mesmerized by Wagner’s work and began to paint scenes for his operas when he returned to Venice, in Wagnerian drama, painting, architecture, song, dance, and poetry all worked together towards a common goal. This affected Fortuny’s outlook and was the inspiration for a new type of theater design where the designer. Fortuny and other followers of this concept believed that one can improve the quality of a product by having a good knowledge of something’s raw materials. He also thought that the best type of design was created when the artist knew how to realize the design, through his experiences with Wagner and the theatre, Fortuny became a lighting engineer, architect, inventor, director, and set designer. As a set designer, he wanted to create a seamless way of transitioning from one scene to another other than flying out a backdrop. He began experimenting with light and different ways to do this in the attic of his palazzo in Italy, with his experimentation, he found that reflecting light off of different surfaces could change the color, intensity and other properties of light. His 1904 treatise Eclairage Sceniquedescribes the discovery that formed the basis of his indirect lighting technique and it is not the quantity but the quality of light that makes things visible and allows the pupil. to open properly. He used these indirect lighting techniques in his new invention, the Fortuny cyclorama dome, Fortuny first filed a patent for his indirect theatrical lighting system in 1901 and constantly refined his invention thereafter
28.
Jeanne Lanvin
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Jeanne-Marie Lanvin was a French haute couture fashion designer. She founded the Lanvin fashion house and the beauty and perfume company Lanvin Parfums, Jeanne Lanvin was born in Paris on 1 January 1867, the daughter of Constantin Lanvin and Sophie Deshayes. In 1895, Lanvin married Count Emilio di Pietro, an Italian nobleman, the couples only child, Marguerite di Pietro became an opera singer, married the Count Jean de Polignac, and became, on the death of her mother, the director of the Lanvin fashion house. Lanvin and di Pietro divorced in 1903, Lanvins second husband, whom she married in 1907, was Xavier Melet, a journalist at the newspaper Les Temps and later the French consul in Manchester, England. In 1909, Lanvin joined the Syndicat de la Couture, which marked her formal status as a couturière, the clothing Lanvin made for her daughter began to attract the attention of a number of wealthy people who requested copies for their own children. Soon, Lanvin was making dresses for their mothers, and some of the most famous names in Europe were included in the clientele of her new boutique on the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, from 1923, the Lanvin empire included a dye factory in Nanterre. In the 1920s, Lanvin opened shops devoted to home décor, menswear, furs, in 1922, Lanvin collaborated with celebrated French designer Armand-Albert Rateau in redesigning her apartment, her homes and her businesses. For this domicile, Rateau designed some remarkable 1920–22 furniture in bronze, the pair developed a friendship, and Rateau came aboard Lanvins empire as manager of Lanvin-Sport, also designing the Lanvin spherical La Boule perfume flacon for Arpège. To this day, Arpège perfume containers are imprinted with Paul Iribes gold image of Lanvin, Rateau also managed Lanvin-Décoration in the main store on the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. Lanvins original office is preserved in the Lanvin’s corporate offices at 16 Rue Boissy d’Anglas in Paris, homage à Marie-Blanche, Comtesse Jean de Polignac, Monaco. Jeanne Lanvin and Claude Montana in Morgan, Ann, | ISBN 0-333-33524-4 Castillo, Jules-François Crahay, and Jean Gaumont-Lanvin in Remaury, Bruno, director. Dictionnaire de la Mode au XXe Siècle, Paris, Éditions du Regard, | ISBN 2-08-210044-8 Armand Albert Rateau and Jeanne Lanvin in Byars, Mel. The Design Encyclopedia, New York, The Museum of Modern Art, at Lanvin, a master of improvisation, International Herald Tribune. Interactive timeline of couture houses and couturier biographies
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Mainbocher
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Mainbocher is a fashion label founded by the American couturier Main Rousseau Bocher, also known as Mainbocher. Established in 1929, the house of Mainbocher successfully operated in Paris, although often pronounced Man-bo-shay, the designers name is correctly pronounced Maine-Bocker. Cole Porter, Syrie Maugham, and stars like Mary Pickford, Constance Bennett, Kay Francis, Claudette Colbert, Irene Dunne, Loretta Young, Miriam Hopkins and he designed much of Wallis Simpsons wardrobe, naming a color, Wallis Blue, for her. In 1937, he designed the wedding dress and trousseau of her marriage to the former Edward VIII. Described in 1950 as one of the most photographed and most copied dresses of modern times, Mainbochers last Paris collections created a storm of controversy. Just as later Diors New Look, the Mainbocher Corset, a nipped-in waist, the corset that shaped Mainbochers last Parisian collection was immortalized in 1939 by one of Horsts most famous photographs, known as the Mainbocher Corset. The corset itself, listed in Town and Country as one of the big events of 1939, Mainbochers corseted waist, defined bosom, and back draping was an abrupt shift in sihouette and introduced the Victorian motifs that were to pervade the forties. In 1940, Main Bocher relocated his business to New York on 57th Street next to Tiffanys, as a French-American designer of international reputation, Mainbocher returned to New York with wide publicity, the first American celebrity in the French fashion world. The corset controversy proved to be a significant marketing opportunity, the house of Mainbocher teamed up with the Warner Brothers Corset Company and streamlined the design for mass production. During the Second World War, Main Bocher lent his designs to the American Navy for the creation of the uniforms for the only division of the Navy. In 1950 he designed a one of an evening dress uniform for Colonel Katherine Amelia Towle. This unique uniform is now on display at the armory of the Newport Artillery Company in Newport, in 1947, eight of the New York Dress Institutes Ten Best-Dressed Women in the World were Mainbocher clients. In 1961, Mainbocher business moved to the K. L. M, building on Fifth Avenue and continued until 1971 when Mainbocher, at the age of 81, closed the doors of his house. In 2002, Mainbocher was honored with a plaque on New York Citys Fashion Walk of Fame in the legendary garment district. Christian Dior, Mainbocher is really in advance of us all, christian Lacroix, Mainbocher, its glamour, but with a sense of everyday glamour. Hamish Bowles, I am absolutely crazy about Mainbocher’s clothes, I think they are so subtle, the detailing is so extraordinary, and they are so unbelievably evocative of such a particular time and place and milieu and lifestyle, of absolute subtle luxury. You can really see why a client like Wallis Windsor would have drawn to his clothes. Fashion design Fashion designer Haute couture Main Rousseau Bocher at the Fashion Model Directory Official Mainbocher website
30.
Elsa Schiaparelli
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Elsa Schiaparelli was an Italian fashion designer. Along with Coco Chanel, her greatest rival, she is regarded as one of the most prominent figures in fashion between the two World Wars, starting with knitwear, Schiaparellis designs were heavily influenced by Surrealists like her collaborators Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau. Her clients included the heiress Daisy Fellowes and actress Mae West, Schiaparelli did not adapt to the changes in fashion following World War II and her couture house closed in 1954. Elsa Luisa Maria Schiaparelli was born at the Palazzo Corsini, Rome and her mother, Maria-Luisa, was a Neapolitan aristocrat. Her father, Celestino Schiaparelli, was a scholar with multiple areas of interest. His studies focused on the Islamic world and the era of the Middle Ages and he was, in addition, an authority on Sanskrit and he also served as Dean of the University of Rome, where Schiaparelli would herself later go on to study philosophy. His brother, astronomer Giovanni Schiaparelli, had discovered the so-called canali, or Martian canals, a cousin of the brothers, Ernesto Schiaparelli, was a noted Egyptologist who discovered the tomb of Nefertari and was Director of the Museo Egizio in Turin. The cultural background and erudition of her family served to ignite the imaginative faculties of Schiaparelli’s impressionable childhood years. She became enraptured with the lore of ancient cultures and religious rites and these sources inspired her to pen a volume of poems titled Arethusa based on the ancient Greek myth of the hunt. The content of her writing so alarmed the conservative sensibilities of her parents sought to tame her fantasy life by sending her to a convent boarding school in Switzerland. Once within the school’s confines, Schiaparelli rebelled against its authority by going on a hunger strike, leaving her parents to see no alternative. Schiaparelli was dissatisfied by a lifestyle that whilst refined and comfortable, she considered cloistered, the placement however, proved uncongenial to Schiaparelli, who subsequently planned a return to the stop-over city of Paris rather than admit defeat by returning to Rome and her family. Schiaparelli fled to London to avoid the certainty of marriage to a persistent suitor, in London, Schiaparelli who had held a fascination for psychic phenomena since childhood, attended a lecture on theosophy. The lecturer that night was Willem de Wendt, a man of various aliases who was known as Willie Wendt. He was reported to have changed his name in England to Wilhelm Frederick Wendt de Kerlor. De Wendts profession was one of a tireless, inventive self-promoter, in reality a con man who claimed to have psychic powers and he alternatively and simultaneously passed himself off as detective and criminal psychologist, doctor, and lecturer. In a stint on the vaudeville stage de Kerlor billed himself as The World Famous Dr. W. de Kerlor, Schiaparelli was immediately attracted to this charismatic charlatan and they became engaged on the very next day of their first meeting. They married shortly thereafter in London on July 21,1914, Schiaparelli was twenty-three, Schiaparelli played the role of her husbands helpmate and helped facilitate the promotion of his fraudulent schemes
31.
Balenciaga
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Balenciaga is a French luxury fashion house founded by Cristóbal Balenciaga, a Spanish designer, born in the Basque Country, Spain. He had a reputation as a couturier of uncompromising standards and was referred to as the master of us all by Christian Dior and his bubble skirts and odd, feminine, yet ultra-modern shapes were trademarks of the house. The House of Balenciaga is now owned by the French multinational company Kering, Cristóbal Balenciaga opened his first boutique in San Sebastián, Spain in 1919, which expanded to include branches in Madrid and Barcelona. The Spanish royal family and the aristocracy wore his designs, but when the Spanish Civil War forced him to close his stores, Balenciaga opened his Paris couture house on Avenue George V in August 1937, and his first runway show featured designs heavily influenced by the Spanish Renaissance. Balenciagas success in Paris was nearly immediate, within two years, the French press lauded him as a revolutionary, and his designs were highly sought-after. Carmel Snow, the editor of Harpers Bazaar was a champion of his designs. Customers risked their safety to travel to Europe during World War II to see Balenciagas clothing, during this period, he was noted for his square coat, with sleeves cut in a single piece with the yoke, and for his designs with black lace over bright pink fabric. However, it was not until the years that the full scale of the inventiveness of this highly original designer became evident. His lines became more linear and sleek, diverging from the hourglass shape popularized by Christian Diors New Look, the fluidity of his silhouettes enabled him to manipulate the relationship between his clothing and womens bodies. In 1951, he transformed the silhouette, broadening the shoulders. In 1955, he designed the dress, which later developed into the chemise dress of 1958. Other contributions in the era included the spherical balloon jacket, the high-waisted baby doll dress, the cocoon coat, the balloon skirt. In 1959, his work culminated in the Empire line, with high-waisted dresses and his manipulation of the waist, in particular, contributed to what is considered to be his most important contribution to the world of fashion, a new silhouette for women. In the 1960s, Balenciaga was an innovator in his use of fabrics, he tended toward heavy fabrics, intricate embroidery and his trademarks included collars that stood away from the collarbone to give a swanlike appearance and shortened bracelet sleeves. In 1960, he designed the dress for Queen Fabiola of Belgium made of ivory duchess satin trimmed with white mink at the collar. Jackie Kennedy famously upset John F. Kennedy for buying Balenciagas expensive creations while he was President because he feared that the American public might think the purchases too lavish and her haute couture bills were eventually discreetly paid by her father-in-law, Joseph Kennedy. By keeping the press unaware of the design of his garments until the day before they were shipped to stores, he hoped to curtail ongoing piracy and copying of his designs. The press resisted, finding it impossible to get his work into their print deadlines
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Christian Dior
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Christian Dior was a French fashion designer, best known as the founder of one of the worlds top fashion houses, also called Christian Dior, which is now owned by Groupe Arnault. Christian Dior was born in Granville, a town on the coast of Normandy. He was the second of five born to Maurice Dior, a wealthy fertilizer manufacturer. He had four siblings, Raymond, Jacqueline, Bernard, when Christian was about five years old, the family moved to Paris, but still returned to the Normandy coast for summer holidays. Diors family had hoped he would become a diplomat, but Dior was artistic, to make money, he sold his fashion sketches outside his house for about 10 cents each. In 1928, Dior left school and received money from his father to finance a small art gallery, where he, from 1937, Dior was employed by the fashion designer Robert Piguet, who gave him the opportunity to design for three Piguet collections. Dior would later say that Robert Piguet taught me the virtues of simplicity through which true elegance must come, one of his original designs for Piguet, a day dress with a short, full skirt called Cafe Anglais, was particularly well received. Whilst at Piguet, Dior worked alongside Pierre Balmain, and was succeeded as house designer by Marc Bohan – who would, in 1960, Dior left Piguet when he was called up for military service. In 1942, when Dior left the army, he joined the house of Lucien Lelong. In 1946 Marcel Boussac, an entrepreneur known as the richest man in France, invited Dior to design for Philippe et Gaston. Dior refused, wishing to make a fresh start under his own rather than reviving an old brand. On 8 December 1946, with Boussacs backing, Dior founded his fashion house. The actual name of the line of his first collection, presented on 12 February 1947, was Corolle, but the phrase New Look was coined for it by Carmel Snow, the editor-in-chief of Harpers Bazaar. Diors designs were more voluptuous than the boxy, fabric-conserving shapes of the recent World War II styles and he was a master at creating shapes and silhouettes, Dior is quoted as saying I have designed flower women. Initially, women protested because his designs covered up their legs, there was also some backlash to Diors designs due to the amount of fabrics used in a single dress or suit. During one photo shoot in a Paris market, the models were attacked by female vendors over this profligacy, the New Look revolutionized womens dress and reestablished Paris as the centre of the fashion world after World War II. Christian Dior died while on holiday in Montecatini, Italy on 24 October 1957, some reports say that he died of a heart attack after choking on a fish bone. Times obituary stated that he died of an attack after playing a game of cards
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Yves Saint Laurent (designer)
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Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent, known as Yves Saint Laurent, was a French fashion designer, regarded as one of the greatest names in fashion history. He was able to adapt his style to accommodate the changes in fashion during that period and he approached fashion in a different perspective by wanting women to look comfortable yet elegant at the same time. He is also credited with having introduced the suit for women and was known for his use of non-European cultural references. Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent was born on 1 August 1936, in Oran, French Algeria, to Charles and he grew up in a villa by the Mediterranean with his two younger sisters, Michèle and Brigitte. Yves liked to create intricate paper dolls, and by his teen years he was designing dresses for his mother. At the age of 17, Saint Laurent moved to Paris and enrolled at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, Michel De Brunhoff, the editor of French Vogue, introduced Saint Laurent to designer Christian Dior, a giant in the fashion world. Dior fascinated me, Saint Laurent later recalled, I couldnt speak in front of him. He taught me the basis of my art, whatever was to happen next, I never forgot the years I spent at by his side. Under Diors tutelage, Saint Laurents style continued to mature and gain more notice. In 1953, Saint Laurent submitted three sketches to a contest for young fashion designers organised by the International Wool Secretariat, subsequently, he was invited to attend the awards ceremony held in Paris in December of that same year. During his stay in Paris, Saint Laurent met Michel de Brunhoff, De Brunhoff, known by some as a considerate person who encouraged new talent, was impressed by the sketches Saint Laurent brought with him and suggested he become a fashion designer. Saint Laurent would eventually consider a course of study at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, Saint Laurent followed his advice and, leaving Oran for Paris after graduation, began his studies there and eventually graduated as a star pupil. Later that same year, he entered the International Wool Secretariat competition again and won, beating out his friend Fernando Sánchez and young German student Karl Lagerfeld. Shortly after his win, he brought a number of sketches to de Brunhoff who recognized close similarities to sketches he had shown that morning by Christian Dior. Knowing that Dior had created the sketches that morning and that the man could not have seen them, de Brunhoff sent him to Dior. Although Dior recognised his talent immediately, Saint Laurent spent his first year at the House of Dior on mundane tasks, such as decorating the studio and designing accessories. Eventually, however, he was allowed to submit sketches for the collection, with every passing season. In August 1957, Dior met with Saint Laurents mother to tell her that he had chosen Saint Laurent to succeed him as designer and his mother later said that she had been confused by the remark, as Dior was only 52 years old at the time
34.
Pierre Cardin
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Pierre Cardin is an Italian-born French fashion designer. In San Biagio di Callalta near Treviso, Cardin is known for his avant-garde style and his Space Age designs. He prefers geometric shapes and motifs, often ignoring the female form and he advanced into unisex fashions, sometimes experimental, and not always practical. He founded his fashion house in 1950 and introduced the dress in 1954. Pierre Cardin was also designated UNESCO Goodwill Ambassador in 1991, on 16 October 2009, Pierre Cardin was nominated Goodwill Ambassador of the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations. Cardin was educated in central France, beginning his career early, Cardin, aged 14, worked as a clothier’s apprentice, learning the basics of fashion design and construction. In 1939, he left home to work for a tailor in Vichy, during World War II, he worked in the Red Cross, launching humanitarian interests that continue to this day. Cardin moved to Paris in 1945, there, he studied architecture and worked with the fashion house of Paquin after World War II. He worked with Elsa Schiaparelli until he became head of Christian Diors tailleure atelier in 1947, Cardin founded his own house in 1950. He began with haute couture in 1953, Cardin was the first couturier to turn to Japan as a high fashion market when he travelled there in 1959. In 1959, he was expelled from the Chambre Syndicale for launching a collection for the Printemps department store as the first couturier in Paris. During the 1960s, Cardin began a practice that is now commonplace by creating the system of licences that he was to apply to fashion, a clothing collection launched around this period surprised all by displaying the designer’s logo on the garments for the first time. The Espace Cardin is also used to new artistic talents, like theater ensembles, musicians. He was also contacted by Pakistan International Airlines to design uniforms for the flag carrier, the uniforms were introduced in 1966 to 1971 and became an instant hit. It was also tapered to the body, in contrast with the traditional loose-fitting design, it also had a collar with sharp. A straight-cut design was favored by President Ferdinand Marcos, Cardin was a member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture et du Prêt-à-Porter from 1953 to 1993. Like many other designers today, Cardin decided in 1994 to show his collection only to a circle of selected clients and journalists. After a break of 15 years, he showed a new collection to a group of 150 journalists at his home in Cannes
35.
Emanuel Ungaro
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Emanuel Ungaro is a retired French fashion designer, who founded the fashion house that bears his name in 1965. Ungaros Italian father fled to France from Francavilla Fontana of Brindisi province because of the fascist dictatorship in Italy, ungaros father was a tailor and he gave his son a sewing machine when he was young. At the age of 22, he moved to Paris, three years later he began designing for the House of Cristobal Balenciaga for three years before quitting to work for Courrèges. Four years later, in 1965 with the assistance of Swiss artist Sonja Knapp and Elena Bruna Fassio, later followed the perfumes Senso, Ungaro and Emanuel Ungaro For Men. In 1996, he formed a partnership with Salvatore Ferragamo, in 1997, Ungaro, Ferragamo and Bulgari created a new company, Emanuel Ungaro Parfums. The new perfumes to follow was Fleur de Diva, Desnuda, in 2005, Ungaro retired and sold the label to internet entrepreneur Asim Abdullah for US$84 million. Subsequently, Lohan was appointed Artistic Director, working with new head designer Estrella Archs, the introduction of Lohan, which was meant to give the label publicity, was received with shock and dismay in Paris Fashion Week 2009. In 2010, during Paris Fashion Week, Lindsay Lohan announced that she was no longer working for or with Ungaro, and that she could not comment on the matter because of legal issues. In 2009, the label had sales of about $200 million from fragrance and less-expensive lines sold in Asia, in April 2010, it was announced that Archs had been dismissed and British designer Giles Deacon would be taking over as creative director. In 2008, Avon and Emanuel Ungaro collaborated to launch a new duo of fragrances, U by Ungaro for Her, actress Reese Witherspoon served as the scents spokesperson. In 1988, Ungaro married Laura Bernabei and he has a daughter, Cosima Ungaro. Review/Design, When America Stole The Runway From Paris Couture. The New York Times 10 Sep 1993, Ungaro Corporate Site Emanuel Ungaro at the Fashion Model Directory Interactive timeline of couture houses and couturier biographies
36.
Christian Lacroix
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Christian Marie Marc Lacroix is a French fashion designer. The name may refer to the company he founded. Lacroix was born in Arles, Bouches-du-Rhône in southern France, at a young age he began sketching historical costumes and fashions. Lacroix graduated from school in 1969 and moved to Montpellier. In 1971, he enrolled at the Sorbonne in Paris, while working on a dissertation on dress in French 18th-century painting, Lacroix also pursued a program in museum studies at the École du Louvre. His aspiration during this time was to become a museum curator and it was during this time he met his future wife Françoise Rosenthiel, whom he married in 1974. In 1987, he opened his own couture house. He began putting out ready-to-wear in 1988 drawing inspiration from diverse cultures, critics commented that he did not seem to understand the type of clothing the working woman needed. In 1989, Lacroix launched jewelry, handbags, shoes, glasses, scarves, in this same year, he opened boutiques within Paris, Arles, Aix-en-Provence, Toulouse, London, Geneva, and Japan. With his background in historical costume and clothing, Lacroix soon made headlines with his opulent, fantasy creations, including the short skirt, rose prints. He referenced widely from other styles—from fashion history, from folklore and he favored the hot colors of the Mediterranean region, a hodgepodge of patterns, and experimental fabrics, sometimes handwoven in local workshops. From 1987 to its purchase from LVMH by Falic Fashion Group in 2005, in 2009, the fashion house, owned by duty-free retailer Falic Fashion Group, put the business into administration and laid off all but 12 workers. Lacroixs A/W2009 Haute Couture was privately financed by Lacroix and each model was paid €50, I didnt want to cry, said Lacroix I want to continue, maybe in a different way, with a small atelier. What I really care about is the women who do this work Lacroix said about his last Haute Couture collection, throughout its history, it never turned a profit and reported a €10 million loss in 2008. His collections during 1994 were based on old culture and folklore, as well as fables, in 1995, he launched a towel line which contained a fashion and lifestyle side, which represent how the two intertwine. In 1996, he launched a jeans line and he included past traditions from all around the world, continuing the line with even more on ethnic arts. In 1997, the Art de la Table line was launched by him in partnership with Christofle, a licensing agreement was also reached in this year with Pronuptian in which he could launch his Christian Lacroix Marriage line. In 1999, he launched his first line of floral perfume, in 2001, Lacroix also launched a childrens line and in 2002, he launched a perfume, Bazar, created by Bertrand Duchaufour, Jean-Claude Ellena and Emilie Copperman
37.
Jean-Paul Gaultier
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Jean-Paul Gaultier is a French haute couture and prêt-à-porter fashion designer. Gaultier was the director of Hermès from 2003 to 2010. Jean-Paul Gaultier co-presented the popular television series Eurotrash with Antoine de Caunes, Gaultier grew up in the suburb of Paris. His mother was a clerk and his father an accountant and it was his maternal grandmother, Marie Garrabe, who introduced him to the world of fashion. He never received training as a designer. Instead, he started sending sketches to famous couture stylists at an early age, Pierre Cardin was impressed by his talent and hired him as an assistant in 1970. Afterwards he worked with Jacques Esterel in 1971 and Jean Patou later that year and his first individual collection was released in 1976, and his characteristic irreverent style dating from 1981 has led to his being known as the enfant terrible of French fashion. In 1985, he introduced man-skirts and promoted their use, especially kilts, in mens wardrobe, Gaultier has also worked in close collaboration with Wolford Hosiery. This earned him criticism and enormous popularity. At the end of the 1980s, Gaultier suffered some losses, including his boyfriend and business partner Francis Menuge. In 1988 Gaultier released a single titled How To Do That on Fontana records from which came one of the first ever single title remix albums Aow Tou Dou Zat on Mercury records. The album includes mixes by Norman Cook, J. J. Jeczalik, George Shilling, Mark Saunders, Latin Rascals, David Dorrell, Tim Atkins, Carl Atkins, co-written & produced by Tony Mansfield, video directed by Jean-Baptiste Mondino. The album also featured a collaboration with accordion player Yvette Horner, starting in 1993, he co-hosted the Channel 4s program Eurotrash with Antoine de Caunes. Gaultier hosted the show until 1997, Gaultier was the creative director of Hermès from 2003 to 2010, where he succeeded Martin Margiela. He also designed furniture for the French furniture brand Roche Bobois. The exhibition in Paris, which took place from April to August 2015, was the subject of a documentary called Jean Paul Gaultier at the Grand Palais aired exclusively on Eurochannel. The Granny Gray hair color trend is attributed to Gualtier, whose Autumn/Winter 2011 show featured models in grey Beehives, in Spring 2015, his catwalk show at Paris Fashion Week featuring silver haired models again, as did the shows of other fashion designers, Chanel and Gareth Pugh. The trend soon took off among celebrities and the general public, in 2012, he was named as a member of the Jury for the Main Competition at the 2012 Cannes Film Festival
38.
Thierry Mugler
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Thierry Mugler is a French fashion designer and creator of several perfumes. Mugler was born in Strasbourg, France and his passion led him to focus more on drawing than on school, and at the age of 9, he began to study classical dance. By 14, he joined the corps for the Rhin Opera. At the same time, Mugler began formal interior design training at the Strasbourg School of Decorative Arts, at the age of 24, Mugler moved to Paris, France. He began designing clothes for Parisian boutique, Gudule, at 26, Mugler, who was working as a freelance designer, began to design for a variety of large ready-to-wear fashion houses in Paris, Milan, London and Barcelona. In 1973, Mugler created his first personal collection called Café de Paris, the style of the collection was both sophisticated and urban. Melka Tréanton, a fashion editor, helped to launch his career. In 1976, she asked him to show his work in Tokyo for an event organized by Shiseido, in 1978, he opened his first Paris boutique at the Place des Victoires in the 1er Arrondissement). At the same time, Thierry Mugler launched a collection for men. For this collection, he reworked classical masculinity, giving it a modern style. A clean, precise, structured cut which outlined a highly recognizable silhouette, prominent shoulders, during the 1980s and 1990s, Thierry Mugler became an internationally recognized designer, and his collections garnered much commercial success. At the request of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture and he created the famous black dress worn by Demi Moore in the 1993 movie, Indecent Proposal. His clothes are identified by their style and their structure, Mugler, over the next two decades created a style that was very much of its time, it was strong, angular, and sometimes almost cruel. Shoulders were wide and padded, waists were wasp like, prints were banished, Mugler”s clothes came in solid, dominating colors. Collars had exaggerated points, or flame like cutouts, the insect kingdom was a constant influence, as were the ladies and gentlemen of film noir. PVC was often used as his material for his pieces, used to create space. Mugler published his first photography book in 1988, Thierry Mugler and this was followed by a monograph in 1999 entitled, Fashion Fetish Fantasy which assembles photos of his creations. Mugler also directs films, advertising films and video clips
39.
Ready-to-wear
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Off-the-peg is sometimes used for items other than clothing such as handbags. Ready-to-wear has rather different connotations in the spheres of fashion and classic clothing, in the fashion industry, designers produce ready-to-wear clothing, intended to be worn without significant alteration because clothing made to standard sizes fits most people. They use standard patterns, factory equipment, and faster construction techniques to keep costs low, some fashion houses and fashion designers produce mass-produced and industrially manufactured ready-to-wear lines but others offer garments that are not unique but are produced in limited numbers. The Bread & Butter in Berlin is considered to be the worlds most important trade fair for ready-to-wear fashion, due to technological advances, military uniforms were the first ready-to-wear garments to be mass-produced during the War of 1812. Before, women would alter their previously styled clothing in order to stay up to date with fashion trends, the widespread adoption of ready-to wear clothing reflected a variety of factors including economic disparities, a desire for an independent fashion industry, and an increase in media attention. Another significant factor created by the industry was the US development of a style independent from Europe. Ready-to-wear also sparked new interests in health, beauty, and diet as manufactured clothing set specific, women of larger sizes had difficulties finding apparel in department stores, as most manufacturers maintained and sold the limited sizes across the nation. Overall ready-to-wear fashion exposed women to the newest styles and fashion trends, the ready-to-wear fashion revolution led to an expansion of the US fashion industry that made fashionable apparel accessible, cost effective, and commensurable. The construction of clothing is also held to a different standard than that of haute couture due to its industrial nature. High-end ready-to-wear lines are based upon a famous gown or other pattern that is then duplicated and advertised to raise the visibility of the designer. In high-end fashion, ready-to-wear collections are presented by fashion houses each season during a period known as Fashion Week. Smaller lines including the Cruise and Pre-Fall collections, which add to the value of a brand, are presented separately at the fashion designers discretion. Ready-to-wear fashion weeks occur separately and earlier than those of haute couture
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Shoe
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A shoe is an item of footwear intended to protect and comfort the human foot while the wearer is doing various activities. Shoes are also used as an item of decoration and fashion, the design of shoes has varied enormously through time and from culture to culture, with appearance originally being tied to function. Additionally, fashion has often dictated many design elements, such as whether shoes have very high heels or flat ones, contemporary footwear in the 2010s varies widely in style, complexity and cost. Basic sandals may consist of only a sole and simple strap. High fashion shoes made by famous designers may be made of materials, use complex construction. Some shoes are designed for specific purposes, such as boots designed specifically for mountaineering or skiing, traditionally, shoes have been made from leather, wood or canvas, but in the 2010s, they are increasingly made from rubber, plastics, and other petrochemical-derived materials. Though the human foot is adapted to varied terrain and climate conditions, it is vulnerable to environmental hazards such as sharp rocks and hot ground. Some shoes are worn as safety equipment, such as steel-soled boots which are required on construction sites, the earliest known shoes are sandals dating from approximately 7000 or 8000 BC, found in the Fort Rock Cave in the US state of Oregon in 1938. Ötzi the Icemans shoes, dating to 3300 BC, featured brown bearskin bases, deerskin side panels, and a bark-string net, the Jotunheimen shoe was discovered in August 2006. Archaeologists estimate that the shoe was made between 1800 and 1100 BC, making it the oldest article of clothing discovered in Scandinavia. It is thought that shoes may have used long before this. By studying the bones of the toes, it was observed that their thickness decreased approximately 40,000 to 26,000 years ago. This led archaeologists to deduce that wearing shoes resulted in less bone growth and these earliest designs were very simple in design, often mere foot bags of leather to protect the feet from rocks, debris, and cold. They were more commonly found in colder climates, many early natives in North America wore a similar type of footwear, known as the moccasin. These are tight-fitting, soft-soled shoes typically made out of leather or bison hides, many moccasins were also decorated with various beads and other adornments. Moccasins were not designed to be waterproof, and in wet weather and warm summer months, as civilizations began to develop, thong sandals were worn. This practice dates back to pictures of them in ancient Egyptian murals from 4000 BC, One pair found in Europe was made of papyrus leaves and dated to be approximately 1,500 years old. They were also worn in Jerusalem during the first century of the Common Era, thong sandals were worn by many civilizations and made from a wide variety of materials
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Perfume
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Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aroma compounds, fixatives and solvents - used to give the human body, animals, food, objects, and living-spaces a pleasant scent. Ancient texts and archaeological excavations show the use of perfumes in some of the earliest human civilizations, the word perfume derives from the Latin perfumare, meaning to smoke through. Perfumery, as the art of making perfumes, began in ancient Mesopotamia and Egypt, the worlds first-recorded chemist is considered a woman named Tapputi, a perfume maker mentioned in a cuneiform tablet from the 2nd millennium BC in Mesopotamia. She distilled flowers, oil, and calamus with other aromatics, then filtered, in India, perfume and perfumery existed in the Indus civilization. One of the earliest distillations of Ittar was mentioned in the Hindu Ayurvedic text Charaka Samhita and Sushruta Samhita, in 2004 –2005, archaeologists uncovered what are believed to be the worlds oldest surviving perfumes in Pyrgos, Cyprus. The perfumes date back more than 4,000 years and they were discovered in an ancient perfumery, a 4, 000-square-meter factory housing at least 60 stills, mixing bowls, funnels, and perfume bottles. In ancient times people used herbs and spices, such as almond, coriander, myrtle, conifer resin, the book also described 107 methods and recipes for perfume-making and perfume-making equipment, such as the alembic. The Persian chemist Ibn Sina introduced the process of extracting oils from flowers by means of distillation and he first experimented with the rose. Until his discovery, liquid perfumes consisted of mixtures of oil and crushed herbs or petals, rose water was more delicate, and immediately became popular. Both the raw ingredients and the technology significantly influenced western perfumery and scientific developments. The art of perfumery was known in western Europe from 1221, taking account the monks recipes of Santa Maria delle Vigne or Santa Maria Novella of Florence. In the east, the Hungarians produced in 1370 a perfume made of scented oils blended in an alcohol solution – best known as Hungary Water – at the behest of Queen Elizabeth of Hungary. The art of perfumery prospered in Renaissance Italy, and in the 16th century the personal perfumer to Catherine de Medici, Rene the Florentine and his laboratory was connected with her apartments by a secret passageway, so that no formulae could be stolen en route. Thanks to Rene, France quickly became one of the European centers of perfume, cultivation of flowers for their perfume essence, which had begun in the 14th century, grew into a major industry in the south of France. Between the 16th and 17th centuries, perfumes were used primarily by the wealthy to mask body odors resulting from infrequent bathing, partly due to this patronage, the perfume industry developed. In 1693, Italian barber Giovanni Paolo Feminis created a perfume water called Aqua Admirabilis, today best known as eau de cologne, by the 18th century the Grasse region of France, Sicily, and Calabria were growing aromatic plants to provide the growing perfume industry with raw materials. Even today, Italy and France remain the center of European perfume design, Perfume types reflect the concentration of aromatic compounds in a solvent, which in fine fragrance is typically ethanol or a mix of water and ethanol. Various sources differ considerably in the definitions of perfume types, the intensity and longevity of a perfume is based on the concentration, intensity and longevity of the aromatic compounds, or perfume oils, used
42.
Gossip Girl
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Gossip Girl is an American teen drama television series based on the book series of the same name written by Cecily von Ziegesar. The series, created by Josh Schwartz and Stephanie Savage, originally ran on The CW for six seasons from September 19,2007, to December 17,2012. Narrated by the omniscient blogger Gossip Girl, voiced by Kristen Bell, the series begins with the return of Upper East Side teenage it girl Serena van der Woodsen from a mysterious absence. Gossip Girl reveals that Serena has been away at boarding school in Cornwall, Connecticut, Blair Waldorf, whom creators describe as being the queen at the center of their chess game, is the queen bee of Constance Saint Jude prep schools social scene. She also happens to be the childhood best friend and occasional rival of Serena van der Woodsen, other characters of the turbulent Manhattan scene, Vanessa Abrams, Dans childhood best friend. He is Dan and Jennys father and primary guardian, dorota is Blairs primary housekeeper since her youth. Bart Bass is a rude and wealthy man on the upper east side. The success of Gossip Girl led to adaptations outside the United States, the show has received numerous award nominations, winning 18 Teen Choice Awards. The CW officially renewed Gossip Girl for a sixth and final season on May 11,2012, the final season, consisting of 10 episodes, premiered on October 8,2012, and ended on December 17,2012. The Gossip Girl book series was supposed to be adapted into a film starring Lindsay Lohan with head Gilmore Girls creator Amy Sherman-Palladino. When the film project did not get off the ground, Stephanie Savage, as of October 2006, Schwartz was working on the pilot. He said, I was very skeptical, I dont want to do The O. C. But I thought the books were smart, the characters are worldly in a way that Orange County kids arent. The characteristics for each character in the pilot were based on the first Gossip Girl book, in January 2007, the show was given the green light by The CW. Joshua Safran, who started as a producer before becoming co-executive producer, was later added as an executive producer. On April 24,2012, it was announced that he would leave the show at the end of the season to be the new showrunner of NBCs now-cancelled musical series Smash. To fill in Safrans void, co-executive producer Sara Goodman was promoted to producer for the sixth season. Alexandra Patsavas who worked with Schwartz on The O. C. was in charge of the music, Eric Daman was at the head of the costume department, he previously had assisted Patricia Field on Sex and the City
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Mod (subculture)
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Mod is a subculture that began in the United Kingdom in the 1960s and spread, in varying degrees, to other countries and continues today on a smaller scale. Significant elements of the mod subculture include fashion, music, the original mod scene was associated with amphetamine-fuelled all-night dancing at clubs. In England during the early to mid 1960s, mods often engaged in brawls with rockers, in the mid-to-late 1960s, the conflicts between mods and rockers subsided, as several rock bands, including The Who and the Small Faces adopted a mod style. London became synonymous with fashion, music, and pop culture in these years, a period often referred to as Swinging London. There was a mod revival in the United Kingdom in the late 1970s, which was followed by a mod revival in North America in the early 1980s, particularly in southern California, Vancouver, and Toronto. The term mod derives from modernist, a used in the 1950s to describe modern jazz musicians and fans. This usage contrasted with the term trad, which described traditional jazz players, the 1959 novel Absolute Beginners describes modernists as young modern jazz fans who dress in sharp modern Italian clothes. The novel may be one of the earliest examples of the term being written to describe young British style-conscious modern jazz fans and this usage of the word modernist should not be confused with modernism in the context of literature, art, design and architecture. From the mid-to-late 1960s onwards, the media often used the term mod in a wider sense to describe anything that was believed to be popular. Paul Jobling and David Crowley argue that the definition of mod can be difficult to pin down, because throughout the original era. They claim that since the mod scene was so pluralist, the mod was an umbrella term that covered several distinct sub-scenes. Early mods watched French and Italian art films and read Italian magazines to look for style ideas, while clothes were still important at that time, they could be ready-made. Mary Anne Long argues that first hand accounts and contemporary theorists point to the Jewish upper-working or middle-class of London’s East End and suburbs. Simon Frith asserts that the mod subculture had its roots in the 1950s beatnik coffee bar culture, sparks argues that Mod has been much misunderstood. As this working-class, scooter-riding precursor of skinheads, coffee bars were attractive to British youths because, in contrast to typical pubs, which closed at about 11pm, they were open until the early hours of the morning. Coffee bars had jukeboxes, which in some cases reserved space in the machines for the customers own records, in the late 1950s, coffee bars were associated with jazz and blues, but in the early 1960s, they began playing more R&B music. Frith notes that although coffee bars were originally aimed at art school students, they began to facilitate an intermixing of youths from different backgrounds. Violent clashes would often ensue between the two groups and this period was later immortalized by songwriter Pete Townshend, in the Whos 1973 concept album, Quadrophenia
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