1.
Edward VII
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Edward VII was King of the United Kingdom and the British Dominions and Emperor of India from 22 January 1901 until his death in 1910. The eldest son of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha, before his accession to the throne, he served as heir apparent and held the title of Prince of Wales for longer than any of his predecessors. During the long reign of his mother, he was excluded from political power. He travelled throughout Britain performing ceremonial duties, and represented Britain on visits abroad. His tours of North America in 1860 and the Indian subcontinent in 1875 were popular successes, as king, Edward played a role in the modernisation of the British Home Fleet and the reorganisation of the British Army after the Second Boer War. He reinstituted traditional ceremonies as public displays and broadened the range of people with whom royalty socialised and he died in 1910 in the midst of a constitutional crisis that was resolved the following year by the Parliament Act 1911, which restricted the power of the unelected House of Lords. Edward was born at 10,48 in the morning on 9 November 1841 in Buckingham Palace and he was the eldest son and second child of Queen Victoria and her husband Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha. He was christened Albert Edward at St Georges Chapel, Windsor Castle and he was named Albert after his father and Edward after his maternal grandfather Prince Edward, Duke of Kent and Strathearn. He was known as Bertie to the family throughout his life. As the eldest son of the British sovereign, he was automatically Duke of Cornwall, as a son of Prince Albert, he also held the titles of Prince of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha and Duke of Saxony. He was created Prince of Wales and Earl of Chester on 8 December 1841, Earl of Dublin on 17 January 1850, a Knight of the Garter on 9 November 1858, and a Knight of the Thistle on 24 May 1867. In 1863, he renounced his rights to the Duchy of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha in favour of his younger brother. Queen Victoria and Prince Albert were determined that their eldest son should have an education that would prepare him to be a constitutional monarch. At age seven, Edward embarked on an educational programme devised by Prince Albert. Unlike his elder sister Victoria, Edward did not excel in his studies and he tried to meet the expectations of his parents, but to no avail. Although Edward was not a diligent student—his true talents were those of charm, sociability and tact—Benjamin Disraeli described him as informed, intelligent, after the completion of his secondary-level studies, his tutor was replaced by a personal governor, Robert Bruce. After an educational trip to Rome, undertaken in the first few months of 1859, he spent the summer of that year studying at the University of Edinburgh under, among others, in October, he matriculated as an undergraduate at Christ Church, Oxford. Now released from the strictures imposed by his parents, he enjoyed studying for the first time
2.
Tweed (cloth)
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Tweed is a rough, woollen fabric, of a soft, open, flexible texture, resembling cheviot or homespun, but more closely woven. It is usually woven with a weave, twill or herringbone structure. Colour effects in the yarn may be obtained by mixing dyed wool before it is spun, tweeds are an icon of traditional Irish and British country clothing, being desirable for informal outerwear, due to the material being moisture-resistant and durable. Tweeds are made to withstand harsh climate and are worn for outdoor activities such as shooting and hunting. Lovat is the given to the green used in traditional Scottish tweed. In Ireland, tweed manufacturing is most associated with County Donegal, the original name of the cloth was tweel, Scots for twill, the material being woven in a twilled rather than a plain pattern. A traditional story has the name coming about almost by chance, around 1831, a London merchant received a letter from a Hawick firm, Wm. Watson & Sons, Dangerfield Mills about some tweels. The merchant misinterpreted the handwriting, understanding it to be a taken from the river Tweed that flows through the Scottish Borders textile area. The goods were advertised as Tweed and the name has remained since. Traditionally used for country clothing like shooting jackets, tweed became popular among the Edwardian middle classes who associated it with the leisurely pursuits of the elite. Popular patterns include houndstooth associated with 1960s fashion, Windowpane, gamekeepers tweed worn by academics, Prince of Wales check originally commissioned by Edward VII, in modern times, cyclists may wear tweed when they ride vintage bicycles on a Tweed Run. This practise has its roots in the British young fogey and hipster subcultures of the late 2000s and early 2010s, some vintage Danemann upright pianos have a tweed cloth backing to protect the internal mechanism. Occasionally, Scottish bagpipes were covered in tweed as an alternative to tartan wool, Tweed is also sometimes found covering vintage or retro guitar amplifiers, such as the Fender tweed and Fender Tweed Deluxe. This was widely used by music and rock and roll artists of the 1950s and 60s, including Hank Thompson, Dick Dale, Creedence Clearwater Revivals John Fogerty. Tweed was worn by many characters from the Victorian and Edwardian periods. Basil Rathbone and Jeremy Brett both wore keepers tweed deerstalkers and Inverness capes, but more recent portrayals of Sherlock have abandoned the hat, although Robert Downey Jrs character wore a fedora, both he and Doctor Watson wore tweed overcoats, as was then fashionable in Victorian England. Due to the popularity of Benedict Cumberbatchs portrayal of Sherlock, the tweed overcoat entered high fashion in the 2010s, television actors playing intellectuals or older men often wear Harris tweed, including Anthony Head in Buffy the Vampire Slayer and Mads Mikkelsen as Hannibal Lecter. Notable movie characters who have worn tweed include Sean Connery in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, and Harrison Ford himself in the scenes of Indiana Jones
3.
Glengarry
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It is normally worn as part of Scottish military or civilian Highland dress, either formal or informal, as an alternative to the Balmoral bonnet or tam o shanter. The Royal Regiment of Scotland wears the glengarry with diced band and it was only in the 1850s that the glengarry became characteristic undress headgear of the Scottish regiments of the British Army. By 1860, the glengarry without a border and usually with a feather had been adopted by pipers in all regiments except the 42nd. The diced bands on glengarries were either in red, white and blue for royal regiments or red, white, the toories on top could be red, royal blue or black, according to regiment. The Black Watch and Queens Own Cameron Highlanders, however, wore glengarries without dicing and The 93rd Highlanders were unique in wearing a simple red and this was said to commemorate the stand of the 93rd Sutherland Highlanders at the Battle of Balaclava immortalized as The Thin Red Line. Between 1868 and 1897, the glengarry was also worn as a cap for most British soldiers until replaced by the short-lived field service cap. When this was revived in 1937, the Dress Regulations for the Army, the glengarry continued to be worn in dark blue by all regiments of the Scottish Division up to their final amalgamation into the Royal Regiment of Scotland in 2006. In parade dress, it was worn by all regiments except the Black Watch, who wore the blue bonnet, and musicians of some regiments. The Cameronians wore a rifle green glengarry up until their disbandment in 1968. The blue glengarry currently worn by the Royal Regiment of Scotland has red, blue and white dicing, a red toorie, black silk cockade and this last is a tradition taken from the Royal Scots and Kings Own Scottish Borderers. Other Commonwealth military forces that have Scottish and Highland regiments also make use of the glengarry, the headdress worn by Irish Armys Cavalry Corps is called a Glengarry but is more similar to the caubeen in appearance, than to the Scottish headdress of the same name. It was designed in 1934 for the Cavalry Corps as a more practical headdress than the peaked cap in the confines of their armoured cars. The Glengarry is the colour as the armys service dress uniform with a black band. The cap badge is worn over the left eye, Officers in the RDF wear a similar Glengarry but with green band and ribbons as part of their service dress uniform. Army pipers and drummers wear a black Glengarry with a band and ribbons. The glengarry is worn by members of staff at the Palace of Holyroodhouse. The glengarry is also worn by civilians, notably civilian pipe bands. In this context, it most often has a red toorie, in pipe bands, women often also wear the glengarry
4.
Folk costume
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A folk costume expresses an identity through costume, which is usually associated with a geographic area or a period of time in history. It can also indicate social, marital and/or religious status, such costumes often come in two forms, one for everyday occasions, the other for festivals and formal wear. Following the outbreak of nationalism, the peasantry of Europe came to serve as models for all that appeared genuine. Their dress crystallised into so-called typical forms, and enthusiasts adopted that attire as part of their symbolism, in areas where Western dress codes have become usual, traditional garments are often worn at special events or celebrations, particularly those connected with cultural traditions, heritage or pride. International events may cater for non-Western attendees with a dress code such as business suit or national dress. In modern times, there are instances where traditional garments are required by sumptuary laws, in Bhutan, the traditional Tibetan-style clothing of gho and kera for men, kira and toego for women, must be worn by all citizens, including those not of Tibetan heritage. In Saudi Arabia, women are required to wear the abaya in public. Tibet – Chuba Inner Mongolia – Deel Japan – Kimono, Junihitoe, Sokutai Korea – Hanbok Mongolia – Deel Taiwan – Hanfu, Every ethnic group in the country has their national costume. Kebayas, sarongs and the Beskap jacket of the Javanese and the Kain batik, vietnam – Áo giao lĩnh, Áo dài, Áo tứ thân, Áo bà ba. Abkhazia – Chokha Armenia – Each region has its own style of folk costume, kuwait – Thawb Oman – Dishdasha Ossetia – Chokha Qatar – Kandura Palestine – Keffiyeh, Taqiyah, Palestinian costumes. Saudi Arabia – Thawb, Ghutrah, Agal, Bisht, Abaya, Jilbab, Niqab Syria – Dishdasha Turkey – Fez, Kaftan, Shalvar. United Arab Emirates – Kandura Yemen – Similar to Saudi Arabia, scotland – Highland dress, Kilt or trews, tam oshanter or Balmoral bonnet, doublet, Aboyne dress, and brogues or ghillies. Greek fishermans caps in many villages by the Aegean sea. Italy – Italian folk dance costumes, Roman clothing, Toga, Stola South Tyrol – Tracht, slovenia – Gorenjska noša Spain – Every autonomous region has its own national costume. For example, Bavarias well-known Tracht, Lederhosen and Dirndl, liechtenstein – Tracht, Dirndl Netherlands – Dutch cap, Klompen, poffer Switzerland – Every canton has its own specific design of a national costume. A good example is seen in the attire of Paul Bunyan. Deep South and other parts of the American South – Traditional Southern US wear includes white seersucker suits and string ties for men and these short pants remained commonplace among young urban American boys until the mid 20th century. Nantucket – Summer residents of Nantucket will often wear Nantucket Reds, amish, the Pennsylvania Dutch and some sects of Mormon fundamentalism preserve traditional 19th century clothing styles
5.
Scotland
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Scotland is a country that is part of the United Kingdom and covers the northern third of the island of Great Britain. It shares a border with England to the south, and is surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean, with the North Sea to the east. In addition to the mainland, the country is made up of more than 790 islands, including the Northern Isles, the Kingdom of Scotland emerged as an independent sovereign state in the Early Middle Ages and continued to exist until 1707. By inheritance in 1603, James VI, King of Scots, became King of England and King of Ireland, Scotland subsequently entered into a political union with the Kingdom of England on 1 May 1707 to create the new Kingdom of Great Britain. The union also created a new Parliament of Great Britain, which succeeded both the Parliament of Scotland and the Parliament of England. Within Scotland, the monarchy of the United Kingdom has continued to use a variety of styles, titles, the legal system within Scotland has also remained separate from those of England and Wales and Northern Ireland, Scotland constitutes a distinct jurisdiction in both public and private law. Glasgow, Scotlands largest city, was one of the worlds leading industrial cities. Other major urban areas are Aberdeen and Dundee, Scottish waters consist of a large sector of the North Atlantic and the North Sea, containing the largest oil reserves in the European Union. This has given Aberdeen, the third-largest city in Scotland, the title of Europes oil capital, following a referendum in 1997, a Scottish Parliament was re-established, in the form of a devolved unicameral legislature comprising 129 members, having authority over many areas of domestic policy. Scotland is represented in the UK Parliament by 59 MPs and in the European Parliament by 6 MEPs, Scotland is also a member nation of the British–Irish Council, and the British–Irish Parliamentary Assembly. Scotland comes from Scoti, the Latin name for the Gaels, the Late Latin word Scotia was initially used to refer to Ireland. By the 11th century at the latest, Scotia was being used to refer to Scotland north of the River Forth, alongside Albania or Albany, the use of the words Scots and Scotland to encompass all of what is now Scotland became common in the Late Middle Ages. Repeated glaciations, which covered the land mass of modern Scotland. It is believed the first post-glacial groups of hunter-gatherers arrived in Scotland around 12,800 years ago, the groups of settlers began building the first known permanent houses on Scottish soil around 9,500 years ago, and the first villages around 6,000 years ago. The well-preserved village of Skara Brae on the mainland of Orkney dates from this period and it contains the remains of an early Bronze Age ruler laid out on white quartz pebbles and birch bark. It was also discovered for the first time that early Bronze Age people placed flowers in their graves, in the winter of 1850, a severe storm hit Scotland, causing widespread damage and over 200 deaths. In the Bay of Skaill, the storm stripped the earth from a large irregular knoll, when the storm cleared, local villagers found the outline of a village, consisting of a number of small houses without roofs. William Watt of Skaill, the laird, began an amateur excavation of the site, but after uncovering four houses
6.
Tartan
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Tartan is a pattern consisting of criss-crossed horizontal and vertical bands in multiple colours. Tartans originated in woven wool, but now they are made in other materials. Tartan is particularly associated with Scotland, Scottish kilts almost always have tartan patterns. Tartan is often called plaid in North America, but in Scotland, Tartan is made with alternating bands of coloured threads woven as both warp and weft at right angles to each other. The weft is woven in a simple twill, two over—two under the warp, advancing one thread at each pass and this forms visible diagonal lines where different colours cross, which give the appearance of new colours blended from the original ones. The resulting blocks of colour repeat vertically and horizontally in a pattern of squares and lines known as a sett. The Dress Act of 1746 attempted to bring the clans under government control by banning the tartan. When the law was repealed in 1782, it was no longer ordinary Highland dress, until the middle of the nineteenth century, the highland tartans were only associated with either regions or districts, rather than any specific Scottish clan. Today tartan is no longer limited to textiles, but is used on non-woven mediums, such as paper, plastics, packaging, the English word tartan is most likely derived from the French tartarin meaning Tartar cloth. It has also suggested that tartan may be derived from modern Scottish Gaelic tarsainn. Today tartan usually refers to coloured patterns, though originally a tartan did not have to be made up of any pattern at all, as late as the 1830s tartan was sometimes described as plain coloured. Patterned cloth from the Gaelic-speaking Scottish Highlands was called breacan, meaning many colours, over time the meanings of tartan and breacan were combined to describe certain type of pattern on a certain type of cloth. The pattern of a tartan is called a sett, the sett is made up of a series of woven threads which cross at right angles. Today tartan is used to describe the pattern, not limited to textiles. In North America the term plaid is commonly used to describe tartan, the word plaid, derived from the Scottish Gaelic plaide, meaning blanket, was first used of any rectangular garment, sometimes made up of tartan, particularly that which preceded the modern kilt. In time, plaid was used to describe blankets themselves, each thread in the warp crosses each thread in the weft at right angles. Thus, a set of two base colours produces three different colours including one mixture and this means that the more stripes and colours used, the more blurred and subdued the tartans pattern becomes. The sequence of threads, known as the sett, starts at an edge, in diagram A, the sett reverses at the first pivot, then repeats, then reverses at the next pivot, and will carry on in this manner horizontally
7.
Bodice
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A bodice is an article of clothing for women, covering the body from the neck to the waist. The term comes from pair of bodies, in dressmaking, the term waist was also used. During wear, the parts might be connected by hooks and eyes, one-piece construction became more common after 1900 due to the trend for looser, more simply-constructed clothing with narrower skirts. To achieve a shape and support the bust, the bodice was frequently stiffened with bents. The bodice was different from the corset of the time because it was intended to be worn over the other garments, in earlier periods, bodices and corsets were laced in spiral fashion, with one continuous lace. In later periods, both were laced like the tennis shoe, with eyelets facing one another. This was more convenient for women who had to dress themselves, one mid-19th-century style included the Agnes Sorel bodice, named after 15th-century royal mistress Agnes Sorel. This style was a day wear bodice, with a square cut neckline that had a front and back. Bodice continues in use to refer to the portion of a one- or two-piece dress. The bodice of a dress was called the corsage in the 19th century, bodices survive into modern times in the traditional or revived folk dress of many European countries. They are also seen today at Society for Creative Anachronism events or a Renaissance Fair. Dirndl Arnold, Janet, Patterns of Fashion, the cut and construction of clothes for men and women 1560-1620, steele, Valerie, The Corset, A Cultural History Yale University Press,2001
8.
Kilt
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A kilt is a knee-length non-bifurcated skirt-type garment with pleats at the rear, originating in the traditional dress of men and boys in the Scottish Highlands of the 16th century. Since the 19th century, it has associated with the wider culture of Scotland. It is most often made of cloth in a tartan pattern. Particularly in North America kilts are now made for wear in a variety of materials. Alternative fastenings may be used and pockets inserted to avoid the need for a sporran, kilts have been adopted as female wear for some sports. The kilt first appeared as the kilt, the breacan or belted plaid, during the 16th century. The filleadh mòr or great kilt was a full-length garment whose upper half could be worn as a cloak draped over the shoulder, or brought up over the head. A version of the filleadh beag, or small kilt, similar to the kilt was invented by an English Quaker from Lancashire named Thomas Rawlinson some time in the 1720s. He felt that the belted plaid was cumbrous and unwieldy, and his solution was to separate the skirt and convert it into a garment with pleats already sewn. From there its use spread in the shortest space amongst the Highlanders and it has been suggested there is evidence that the philibeg with unsewn pleats was worn from the 1690s. Organisations that sanction and grade the competitions in Highland dancing and piping all have rules governing acceptable attire for the competitors and these rules specify that kilts are to be worn. The Scottish kilt displays uniqueness of design, construction, and convention which differentiate it from other garments fitting the general description. It is a garment that is wrapped around the wearers body at the natural waist starting from one side, around the front and back. A kilt covers the body from the waist down to the centre of the knees, the overlapping layers in front are called aprons and are flat, the single layer of fabric around the sides and back is pleated. A kilt pin is fastened to the front apron on the free corner, underwear may or may not be worn, as the wearer prefers, although tradition has it that a true Scotsman should wear nothing under his kilt. The Scottish Tartans Authority, however, warns that in some circumstances the practice could be childish and unhygienic, the typical kilt as seen at modern Highland games events is made of twill woven worsted wool. The twill weave used for kilts is a 2–2 type, meaning that each weft thread passes over and under two warp threads at a time, the result is a distinctive diagonal-weave pattern in the fabric which is called the twill line. This kind of twill, when according to a given sett or written colour pattern is called tartan
9.
Trews
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Trews are mens clothing for the legs and lower abdomen, a traditional form of tartan trousers from Scottish apparel. Trews could be trimmed with leather, usually buckskin, especially on the leg to prevent wear from riding on horseback. Tartan trews shared the fate of other items of Highland dress, including proscription under the Dress Act of 1746 that banned men, the Dress Act lasted until 1782 when it was repealed under the reign of King George III. The word is triubhas in Scottish Gaelic, truis or trews are anglicised spellings meaning trousers. Traditional trews were form-fitting garments, similar to the hose of the Renaissance. They could be cut as Knee-breeches or full length and these trews were cut on the cross-grain, which allowed the fabric to stretch sufficiently to mould to the body, and placed the tartan sett on the diagonal. Traditional trews are actually long hose and these hose came all the way up to the waist and were attached to a linen cloth. They were fastened at the leg, below the knee. It is said in Scottish traditional folklore that these triubhas were actually the common garment of the 16th to 18th Centuries in the Highlands, colonel Sir John Sinclair of Ulbster, proved to his own satisfaction that the truis was an older dress than kilts. Until the establishment of the Royal Regiment of Scotland in 2006, military trews were usually worn by members of the lowland Scottish regiments as part of their No 1, mess, members of highland Scottish regiments were usually authorized to wear kilts with these orders of dress. However, all Highland regiments, in recent times, wore trews with less formal orders of barracks. They were also part of the uniform of the regiment known as The Highlanders formed in 1994. The new Royal Regiment of Scotland comprises all the former Scottish infantry line infantry regiments, historically trews were part of the Highland cultural tradition, not Lowland. From these early beginnings up to 1881, the famous Lowland regiments wore standard British uniform and they wore the complex belted plaid and latterly, to encourage recruits unfamiliar with such garb, they adopted the simpler kilt. However, trews were increasingly worn as off-duty dress and even campaign dress from the late 18th century, Highland regiments stationed in hot or unhealthy surroundings often took to wearing simple white cotton trousers or tartan trews. In 1822, following King George IVs successful first visit to Scotland, he ordered the resumption of Highland dress, the regiment chosen was the most senior of the de-kilted regiments, the 72nd. They adopted the Highland feather bonnet, the Highland version of the red coatee, the tartan chosen was a new form of red or Royal Stewart called Prince Charles Edward Stuart, reflecting the new romantic fashion for all things Jacobite. Today, the sideways kicking step of Scottish highland dancers performing the Seann Triubhas dance is said to symbolise the kicking off of the trews or trousers in favour of the kilt
10.
Full plaid
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A full plaid is a long piece of tartan fabric, traditionally worn as part of a full highland dress uniform. It usually matches the tartan of the kilt, a full plaid is pleated the whole way, with half of its length sewn shut. Its length is almost twice the height of the wearer, a full plaid is typically only seen on members of pipe bands which elect to wear full dress uniforms, and occasionally as formal highland dress. The full plaid is wrapped around the wearers chest and under right arm, the plaid is twisted on the left shoulder with one loose end falling behind the wearers back and getting tucked into the waist belt. The leading edge of the loose end is pulled forward. Properly worn, the edge of the plaid should be level with top of left spat point at the rear of the leg, the lower edge of the plaid should be horizontal and parallel with the ground. The leading edge and front face of the plaid is secured by a brooch on the left shoulder, to the lay person, it would appear as a sort of long, tartan, shoulder-cape. The plaid first appeared as a feature of Highland military dress in the British Army with the establishment of six independent companies raised in 1725 and these subsequently became the Black Watch and the plaid continued as a conspicuous feature of the uniforms worn by Scottish infantry regiments. As a military garment the plaid served the purpose of a form of blanket. It also provided protection from rain for the musket and powder. In its original form the plaid comprised about twelve yards of double-width regimental or traditional tartan which had to be laid on the ground and rolled into. The plaid continued to be a feature of regimental full dress throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries, although by 1914 normally worn only by officers, sergeants
11.
Fly plaid
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The modern fly plaid originated with the traditional Féileadh Mòr worn in the Scottish Highlands. The Great Plaid was a piece of cloth, which by the 16th century measured up to 8. The fly plaid harkens back to that garment and was introduced in the 18th century when fashion dictated a switch to the modern kilt, the fly plaid replaced that portion of the Great Kilt that was draped over the shoulder. It is today worn in two lengths, from about a metre square to 1.4 metres square. Regardless of the size, it is worn in the same tartan or colour as the modern kilt. It is typically worn with a jacket that has epaulets, but this is not mandatory, some fly plaids are sewn so that one corner is gathered prior to attaching the brooch. Others are not sewn and are pleated by hand before draping over the shoulder or inserting through an epaulet
12.
Belted plaid
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The belted plaid is a large blanket-like piece of fabric which is wrapped around the body with the material pleated or, more accurately, loosely gathered and secured at the waist by means of a belt. The belted plaid was an item of mens Highland dress from the late 16th century until the middle of the 18th century. It was also the precursor of the tailored kilt. The belted plaid has been and is referred to by a variety of different terms, including féileadh-mór, breacan an fhéilidh, and, very commonly. The term Great Kilt can be misleading since this garment was untailored, the garment was most definitely not known by this name during the years of its usage. Both the terms féileadh-mór and breacan an fhéilidh are Gaelic terms, the meaning roughly large wrap. The word plaide in Gaelic roughly means blanket, and that was the term for the garment in question. The belted plaid consisted of a piece of tartan fabric approximately 4 or 5 yards in length and it was typically worn as a kind of mantle or cloak cast about the shoulders. In the latter part of the 16th Century, some in the Highlands of Scotland began putting a belt around their waist on the outside of the plaid, the first clear reference to the belted plaid occurs in the year 1594. In that year, a group of Highlanders from the Western Isles went to Ireland to fight under Red Hugh ODonnell. Writing about them, Lughaidh noted how they could be distinguished from the Irish soldiers, They were recognized among the Irish soldiers by the distinction of their arms, for their exterior dress was mottled cloaks of many colours. Their belts were over their loins outside their cloaks, a surviving womans plaid dated 1726 exists. A surviving mens belted plaid from 1822 has belt loops sewn into it at each pattern repeat, such that it can be pleated with a drawstring belt. The belted plaid was used not only as a garment, but also as bedding at night and it was made from wool or a wool/linen combination and twill woven, often in a pattern of coloured stripes in one or both directions. This gave a pattern of stripes or checks, the latter has today become known as tartan, though originally the word tartan referred to the type of cloth used, and not the pattern of colours as the word almost exclusively signifies today. These tartan patterns were apparently based on a sense of fashion or the availability. The modern notion of clan tartans whereby each clan or name is associated with a particular design did not exist at that time, but instead dates back to the early 19th century. Thus, if one desires to wear the belted plaid at Highland Games, in fact, not all such garments were woven in strict accord with the modern definition of tartan pattern
13.
Sporran
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The sporran, a traditional part of male Scottish Highland dress, is a pouch that performs the same function as pockets on the pocketless kilt. Made of leather or fur, the ornamentation of the sporran is chosen to complement the formality of dress worn with it, the sporran is worn on a leather strap or chain, conventionally positioned in front of the groin of the wearer. Since the traditional kilt does not have pockets, the sporran serves as a wallet, the sporran hangs below the belt buckle, and much effort is made to match their style and design. The kilt belt buckle can be very ornate, and contain similar motifs to the sporran cantle, early sporrans would have been worn suspended from the belt on one or other of the hips, rather than hung from a separate strap in front of the wearer. Day sporrans are usually brown leather shovel pouches with simple adornment and this style is often made entirely of leather, with a leather flap, front, and three tassels or more. They are often embossed or hand-tooled with gorgeous Celtic, thistle, or other designs on the flap and body, Dress sporrans can be larger than the day variety, and are often highly ornate. Victorian examples were usually quite ostentatious, and much more elaborate than the leather pouch of the 17th or 18th centuries. They can have sterling or silver-plated cantles trimming the top of the pouch, the cantle may contain intricate filigree or etchings of Celtic knots. The top of the cantle may have a set stone, jewel, or emblems such as Saint Andrew and this style is regarded as the most formal type of sporran. It is an attachment for those who wear kilts in special ceremonies. Prince Charlie often wore this style of sporran to formal occasions and it normally contains fur fronts, a fur gusset, 3-6 decorative fur tassels with regular or cross chains, and a metal cantle at the top. The cantle arcs along the top of the pouch and conceals a clasp and it might be decorated with Celtic symbols such as the lion rampant, thistle, stag, or Saltire. Some elaborate cantles may include gemstones, such as garnets and this style commonly fastens at the rear with a stud on a small flap that connects the front and rear of the sporran. It allows the wearer to carry a range of items due to the size of this sporran. Semi-dress sporrans combine the shape and design as the day-wear sporran. They are often worn for semi-formal occasions with Argyll outfits, designs may decorate the leather flap of this style, or a silver clan symbol or other insignia may adorn on the flap. The body fur of this style is normally a hair hide rather than a loftier material reserved for full dress sporrans. The basic figure is included with a fur front, leather gusset
14.
Sgian-dubh
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The sgian-dubh is a small, single-edged knife worn as part of traditional Scottish Highland dress along with the kilt. The sgian-dubh is normally worn on the side as the dominant hand. The name comes from the Gaelic sgian-dubh, compare also other Gaelic word-formations such as dubh-sgeir underwater skerry, dubh-fhacal riddle, dubh-cheist enigma. However, the term for the knife is a set-phrase containing a fossilized historical form. Various alternative spellings are found in English, including skene-dhu and skean-dhu, the plural is most commonly sgian-dubhs but sgians-dubh is also occasionally encountered. The proper Gaelic plural forms sginean-dubh or sgianan-dubh are only rarely encountered in English usage, the sgian-dubh may have evolved from the sgian-achlais, a dagger that could be concealed under the armpit. Used by the Scots of the 17th and 18th centuries, this knife was slightly larger than the average modern sgian-dubh and was carried in the sleeve or lining of the body of the jacket. Courtesy and etiquette would demand that when entering the home of a friend and it follows that the sgian-achlais would be removed from its hiding place and displayed in the stocking top held securely by the garters. The sgian-dubh also resembles the small skinning knife that is part of the set of hunting knives. These sets contain a knife with a 9 to 10 inches blade. These knives usually had antler handles, as do many early sgian-dubhs, the larger knife is likely the ancestor of the modern dirk. The bog oak, jet black in appearance, was a hard wood suitable for the purpose. The handles on the stag knives simulate horn which was traditionally used. Thus he carried on his person most of his worldly wealth, the black dagger was usually carried in a place of concealment very often under his armpit. This gives support to the view that black does not refer only to the colour of the handle, the sgian-dubh can be seen in portraits of kilted men of the mid-19th century. A similar sgian-dubh is in the collection of The National Museum of Antiquities of Scotland, the early blades varied in construction, some having a clipped or drop point. The spear-point tip has now become universal, the earliest known blades, some housed in the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh, are made from German or Scandinavian steel, which was highly prized by the Highlanders. Scalloped filework on the back of the blade is common on all Scottish knives, a short blade of 3 to 3.5 inches is typical
15.
Garter (stockings)
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Garters are articles of clothing, narrow bands of fabric fastened about the leg, used to keep up stockings, and sometimes socks. In the eighteenth to twentieth centuries, they were tied just below the knee, the advent of elastic has made them less necessary from this functional standpoint, although they are still often worn for fashion. Garters have been worn by men and women, depending on fashion trends. Garters were popular in the 1930s and 1940s, and were a convenient way for ladies to carry small valuables, in Elizabethan fashions, men wore garters with their hose, and colorful garters were an object of display. In Shakespeares Twelfth Night, cross braced garters are an object of some derision, in male fashion, a type of garter for holding up socks has continued as a part of male dress up to the present, although its use may be considered somewhat stodgy. There is a Western wedding tradition for a bride to wear a garter to her wedding and this garter is not normally used to support stockings. This practice is interpreted as symbolic of deflowering, though some sources attribute its origin to a superstition that taking an article of the brides clothing will bring good luck. In the Middle Ages, the groomsmen would rush at the new bride to take her garters as a prize, today, the practice of removing the brides garter is traditionally reserved to the groom, who will then toss the garter to the unmarried male guests. This is performed after the tossing of the bouquet, in which the bride tosses her bouquet over her shoulder to be caught by the female guests. According to superstition, the lady who catches the bouquet and the man who catches the garter will be the man and woman among those in attendance to be married. The ceremony often continues with the man who catches the garter obliged to place it on the leg of the lady who caught the bouquet, traditionally, the pair are obliged to share the next dance. Prom garters were common in the 1960s & 70s, and often conferred on the date as a souvenir, if the date received the garter, it was typically hung from his rear-view mirror. The prom garter may be throughout the evening and is sometimes given to the young womans date as a souvenir. A young woman may choose to keep the garter rather than give it away. In cases like this where the garter is given early in the evening, the suspenders are typically clipped to the stockings with metal clips into which a rubber disc is inserted through the stocking material effectively locking the stocking in place. These are normally attached to a length of elastic allowing for adjustment and these clips, also known as suspender slings, are best attached to stockings with a simple welt that do not have lace, or hold-ups with a silicon rubber lining. Suspender belts for men do exist, usually worn when there is a need to wear support hosiery for medical reasons, suspender belts are usually worn at the waist or just slightly below. If worn too low on the hips, there is a chance of the sliding down
16.
Skirt
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A skirt is the lower part of a dress or gown, covering the person from the waist downwards, or a separate outer garment serving this purpose. Most skirts are self-standing garments, but some skirt-looking panels may be part of another garment such as leggings, shorts, some fashion designers, such as Jean Paul Gaultier, have shown mens skirts. Modern skirts are made of light to mid-weight fabrics, such as denim, jersey, worsted. Skirts of thin or clingy fabrics are often worn with slips to make the material of the skirt drape better, a straw-woven skirt dating to 3900 BC was discovered in Armenia at the Areni-1 cave complex. Skirts have been worn by men and women from many cultures, such as the lungi, lehnga, kanga and sarong worn in South Asia and Southeast Asia, and the kilt worn in Scotland and Ireland. The earliest known culture to have females wear clothing resembling miniskirts were the Duan Qun Miao and this was in reference to the short miniskirts that barely cover the buttocks worn by women of the tribe, and which were probably shocking to observers in medieval and early modern times. In the Middle Ages, some upper-class women wore skirts over three metres in diameter at the bottom, at the other extreme, the miniskirts of the 1960s were minimal garments that may have barely covered the underwear when seated. Costume historians typically use the word petticoat to describe skirt-like garments of the 18th century or earlier, during the 19th century, the cut of womens dresses in western culture varied more widely than in any other century. Waistlines started just below the bust and gradually sank to the natural waist, skirts started fairly narrow and increased dramatically to the hoopskirt and crinoline-supported styles of the 1860s, then fullness was draped and drawn to the back by means of bustles. In the 1890s the rainy daisy skirt was introduced for walking or sportswear and it had a significantly shorter hemline measuring as much as six inches off the ground and would eventually influence the wider introduction of shorter hemlines in the early 20th century. Beginning around 1915, hemlines for daytime dresses left the floor for good, broomstick skirt, a light-weight ankle-length skirt with many crumpled pleats formed by compressing and twisting the garment while wet, such as around a broomstick. Bubble dress/skirt, a voluminous skirt whose hem is tucked back under to create a “bubble effect” at the bottom, Cargo skirt, a plain utilitarian skirt with belt loops and numerous large pockets, based on the military style of Cargo pants and popularised in the 1990s. Crinoline, a full skirt supported by hoops or multiple petticoats. Hobble skirt, a long and tight skirt with a hem narrow enough to impede the wearers stride Kilt-skirt. Though traditionally designed as womens wear, it is fashioned to mimic the appearance of a mans kilt. Leather skirt, a made of leather Lehenga, a long, pleated skirt, often embroidered, worn mostly as the bottom part of the Gagra choli in North India. Mini-crini, a version of the crinoline, designed by Vivienne Westwood in the mid 1980s. Poodle skirt, a circle or near-circle skirt with an appliqued poodle or other decoration Puffball skirt, popular in the mid-late 1980s when it was inspired by Westwoods mini-crini
17.
Earasaid
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See also Highland dress, belted plaid. An earasaid, or arasaid is a garment worn in Scotland as part of traditional female highland dress. Unlike belted plaids for men, it is worn at ankle length, traditionally, it might be plain, striped or tartan, it might be brightly-coloured or made of lachdan wool. Modern highland dress makes earasaids from the same heraldic tartan cloth used for kilts, in cut, it is a rectangle, longer than the wearer is tall, and wider than the wearers waist circumference. The bottom edge is ankle length and the top edge hangs cape-like behind, the width is pleated until it will wrap around the waist with a small overlap. The pleats are held under a belt, the cloth below the belt hangs like a skirt, the cloth above the belt may be pinned or pulled over the head. Near the end of the century, Martin Martin gave a description of traditional womens clothing in the Western Islands, including the earasaid. I have seen some of the former of an hundred marks value, it was broad as any ordinary pewter plate, the whole curiously engraven with various animals etc. The plaid being pleated all round, was tied with a belt below the breast, the belt was of leather, and several pieces of silver intermixed with the leather like a chain. The lower end of the belt has a piece of plate about eight inches long and they wore sleeves of scarlet cloth, closed at the end as mens vests, with gold lace round them, having plate buttons with fine stones. Christina Young spun, dyed, and wove a surviving tartan plaid, it has the year 1726 and it dates from before the Highland dress was banned. A reconstruction in the Scottish Tartans Museum is displayed worn as an earasaid
18.
Sash
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A sash is a large and usually colorful ribbon or band of material worn around the body, draping from one shoulder to the opposing hip, or else running around the waist. The sash around the waist may be worn in daily attire, ceremonial sashes are also found in a V-shaped format, draping from both shoulders to the stomach like a large necklace. In Latin America and some countries of Africa, a presidential sash indicates a presidents authority. Sashes traditionally form part of military attire. Most of the European Royal families wear sashes as a part of their royal regalia, some orders such as the Légion dhonneur include sashes as part of the seniormost grades insignia. Likewise Italian military officers wear light blue sashes over the shoulder on ceremonial occasions. Sashes are a feature of some regiments of the modern French Army for parade dress. In its traditional Franco-Algerian or zouave form the sash was four metres in length, in the historic French Army of Africa, sashes were worn around the waist in either blue for European or red for indigenous troops. At the time of the American Civil War silk sashes in crimson were authorized for officers, generals continued to wear buff silk sashes in full dress until 1917. In the Confederate Army of the Civil War period sash colour indicated the corps or status of the wearer. For example, gold for cavalry, burgundy for infantry, black for chaplains, red for sergeants, green or blue for medics, and grey or cream for general officers. With the exception of the West Point Band Drum Major, today the West Point cadet officer is the person in the US Army who wears a sword and sash. The modern British Army retains a scarlet sash for wear in certain orders of dress by sergeants and above serving in infantry regiments, over the right shoulder to the left hip. A similar crimson silk net sash is worn around the waist by officers of the Foot Guards in scarlet full dress, the same practice is followed in some Commonwealth armies. The present day armies of India and Pakistan both make use of waist-sashes for ceremonial wear. The colours vary according to regiment or branch and match those of the turbans where worn. Typically two or more colours are incorporated in the sash, in vertical stripes, one end hangs loose at the side and may have an ornamental fringe. The practice of wearing distinctive regimental sashes or cummerbunds goes back to the nineteenth century
19.
Shawl
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A shawl is a simple item of clothing, loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. It is usually a rectangular or square piece of cloth, that is folded to make a triangle. Shawl and pashmina name comes from Kashmir, but it originates from Hamedan Persia and he took someof this goat wool and made socks which he gave as a gift to king of Kashmir, Sultan Qutabdin. Afterwards Hamadani suggested to the king that they start a weaving industry in Kashmir using this wool. That is how pashmina shawls began, the skills and knowledge that he brought to Kashmir gave rise to an entire industry. Kashmir was a point through which the wealth, knowledge. Perhaps the most widely known woven textiles are the famed Kashmir shawls, the Kanikar, for instance, has intricately woven designs that are formalized imitations of Nature. The Chenar leaf, apple and cherry blossoms, the rose and tulip, the almond and pear, yet another type of Kashmir shawl is the Jamiavr, which is a brocaded woolen fabric sometimes in pure wool and sometimes with a little cotton added. Still another type of Kashmir shawl is the double-sided Dourukha, a shawl that is so done as to produce the same effect on both sides. The most expensive shawls, called Shahtoosh, are made from under-fleece of the Tibetan antelope or Chiru and these shawls are so fine that even a very tightly woven shawl can be easily pulled through a small finger ring. The naksha, a Persian device like the Jacquard loom invented centuries later, enabled Indian weavers to create floral patterns. The Kashmir shawl that evolved from this expertise in its heyday had greater fame than any other Indian textile, always a luxury commodity, the intricate, tapestry-woven, fine wool shawl had become a fashionable wrap for the ladies of the English and French elite by the 18th century. Supply fell short of demand and manufacturers pressed to produce more, as early as 1803, Kashmiri needlework production was established to increase and hasten output of these shawls, which had been imitated in England since 1784 and even in France. By 1870, the advent of the Jacquard loom in Europe destroyed the exclusivity of the original Kashmir shawl, even the characteristic Kashmiri motif, the mango-shape, began to be known simply as the paisley. The paisley motif is so ubiquitous to Indian fabrics that it is hard to realize that it is only about 250 years old and it evolved from 1600s floral and tree-of-life designs that were created in expensive, tapestry-woven Mughal textiles. The design in India originated from Persian motif called butta-jeghgha which represents a stylized cypress tree, early designs depicted single plants with large flowers and thin wavy stems, small leaves and roots. As the designs became denser over time, more flowers and leaves were compacted within the shape of the tree, by the late 18th century, the archetypal curved point at the top of an elliptical outline had evolved. In the late 18th century and 19th century, the became an important motif in a wide range of Indian textiles
20.
Brooch
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A brooch /ˈbroʊtʃ/ is a decorative jewelry item designed to be attached to garments, often to hold them closed. It is usually made of metal, often silver or gold, brooches are frequently decorated with enamel or with gemstones and may be solely for ornament or sometimes serve a practical function as a fastening, perhaps for a cloak. The earliest known brooches are from the Bronze Age, as fashions in brooches changed rather quickly, they are important chronological indicators. Many sorts of European brooches found in archaeology are usually referred to by the Latin term fibula, the fibula is an ornamental clasp used by Romans, Greeks, Germanic peoples and also by Celts and migratory tribes in Europe from the Early Bronze Age. They may have replaced fibulae made of more perishable Neolithic materials, fibulae are useful type-objects, carefully catalogued local typologies, dating and distribution of fibulae can help date finds where neither numismatic nor ceramic materials provide a secure date. Fibulae were shaped somewhat like a safety pin and were used to hold clothing together. They came in varieties and held prominent significance for the identity of the wearer, indicating ethnicity. Elaborately designed fibulae were an important part of Late Antique dress, the same types of fibulae can often be found on either side of the Roman limites, both among Roman and barbarian populations. The cultural interplay of elite objects designed to show status can be quite complex and it is likely that this type originated among Celtic groups and came to be adopted as an exotic fashion by Roman aristocrats, becoming naturalized as an important Roman emblem, and then exported. From the eighteenth century through the Victorian era it was fashionable to incorporate hair, the practice began as an expression of mourning, then expanded to keepsakes of loved ones who were living. Human hair was encased within the brooch or braided and woven into a band to which clasps were affixed and it was not uncommon for miniature brooch portraits to incorporate ground human hair as pigment. Two sided swivel brooches would display a portrait on one side and a lock of hair on the other, hellenic Ministry of Culture, Katie Demakopoulou, Bronze Age Jewellry in Greece Brooch. Metropolitan jewelry, a catalog from The Metropolitan Museum of Art Libraries
21.
Ghillies (dance)
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Ghillies are specially designed shoes used for several types of dance. They are soft shoes, similar to ballet shoes and they are used by women in Irish dance, by men in Scottish country dance, and by men and women in Highland dance. Ghillies are also known by a variety of other names that include, light shoes, pomps, pumps. Ghillies are soft shoes, almost always made of a supple leather that forms to the foot and they use laces which criss-cross the top of the foot and are tied together similar to a sneaker. Most dancers use laces, although some ghillies do utilize elastic, some dancers will also wrap the laces/elastics around the soles of the feet. The soles usually stretch across the bottom of the shoe and are made from leather. Some ghillies, however, are split-soled, with a leather sole under the heel, ghillies are most commonly black, although other colours are manufactured. White ghillies can be dyed a variety of colours to be used for costumes specially choreographed dances such as blue, red, pink, Scottish ghillies are used by men and women for Highland dancing, and by men for Scottish country dancing. They are almost always black, although they often feature coloured stitching and they are generally worn very tight in order to get a good point. Irish ghillies are used by women in Irish dancing, whereas men wear reel shoes, unlike Scottish ghillies, the Irish version rarely feature coloured stitching, and they use loops in the leather, as opposed to eyelets, for the laces. Irish ghillies are available in a tan leather sole and a split sole. Like ballet shoes, ghillies are generally made from leather, and have similar soles, many dancers who start in Highland or Irish dancing will first use ballet shoes, as the cost is considerably lower. The most easily recognizable difference between ballet shoes and ghillies is that ghillies use laces to fasten them to the foot, also the laces are very long, and are wrapped around the ankle and foot before tied. Other differences are that ghillies do not have a string/elastic around the edge of the shoe to tighten them, and the soles of ghillies are not usually stitched on, but glued on. Ghillies, or ghillie brogues, are also a type of shoe with laces along the instep and no tongue, especially those used for Scottish country dancing. Although now worn for dancing and social events, ghillies originated as a shoe that would dry quickly due to the lack of a tongue, ghillies can also be used for other forms of dance, such as lyrical
22.
Turnshoe
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A turnshoe is a type of shoe, made of leather, that was used during the Middle Ages. It was so named because it was put together inside out and this hides the main seam between the sole and vamp—prolonging the life of the shoe and inhibiting moisture leaking in through the seam. In the very beginning, turnshoes consisted of one piece of leather sewn on only one side. In the late early and the medieval ages, turnshoes mostly consisted of one sole. In the late Middle Ages, additional elements were added, like doubled soles, turnshoes were displaced by welted shoes in the beginning of the 16th century. Turnshoes were most often made in the home, shoe An example of turnshoe construction
23.
Brogue shoe
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The Brogue is a style of low-heeled shoe or boot traditionally characterised by multiple-piece, sturdy leather uppers with decorative perforations and serration along the pieces visible edges. Modern brogues trace their roots to a rudimentary shoe originating in Ireland that was constructed using untanned hide, Brogues were traditionally considered to be outdoor or country footwear not otherwise appropriate for casual or business occasions, but brogues are now considered appropriate in most contexts. Brogues are most commonly found in one of four toe cap styles, modern brogues trace their roots to a rudimentary shoe originating in Scotland and Ireland that was constructed using untanned hide. These are often said to stem from the original Irish brogues as well, however, contemporary descriptions of the original brogues do not mention such holes. The word brogue came into English in the sixteenth century. It comes from the Gaelic bróg, bròg shoe, from the Old Norse brók meaning leg covering, the Scots word brogue is also used to denote a bradawl or boring tool as well as the action of piercing with such a tool. The word brogue was first used to describe a form of outdoor, at that time the brogue was not considered to be appropriate for other occasions, social or business. Over time perceptions have changed and brogues are now considered appropriate in most contexts, Brogues continue to be most common as leather dress and casual shoes and boots, but can also be found in many other forms including canvas and leather sneakers and high-heeled womens shoes. Brogues are most commonly found in one of four toe-cap styles, full brogues are characterised by a pointed toe cap with extensions that run along both sides of the toe, terminating near the ball of the foot. Viewed from the top, this toe cap style is W shaped and looks similar to a bird with extended wings, the toe cap of a full brogue is both perforated and serrated along its edges and includes additional decorative perforations in the center of the toe cap. A shoe with a wingtip-style toecap but no perforations is known as an austerity brogue, spectator shoes are full brogue Oxfords constructed from two contrasting colours, typically having the toe and heel cap and sometimes the lace panels in a darker color than the main body of the shoe. Common color combinations include a white body with either black or tan caps. The ghillie style of full brogue has no tongue, to facilitate drying, despite the functional aspects of their design, ghillies brogues are most commonly seen as a component of traditional, formal Scottish dress and are worn primarily for social occasions. Semi-brogues are characterised by a toe cap with decorative perforations and serration along the caps edge and includes additional decorative perforations in the center of the toe cap. The half brogue was first designed and produced by John Lobb Ltd. as an Oxford in 1937 in an effort to offer his customers a shoe more stylish than a plain oxford, yet not as bold as a full brogue. Quarter brogues are more formal than semi brogues and full brogues, longwing brogues are Derby style shoes characterised by a pointed toe cap with wings that extend the full length of the shoe, meeting at a center seam at the heel. Longwing Derby brogues were most popular in the US during the 1970s, closure style is not a defining characteristic of the brogue and therefore brogues can be found in a variety of closure styles. Brogues are commonly available in laced Oxford, Derby or ghillie styles, lace-ups with brogue detailing are considered to be less smart than plain-toed lace-up mens styles
24.
Shoe
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A shoe is an item of footwear intended to protect and comfort the human foot while the wearer is doing various activities. Shoes are also used as an item of decoration and fashion, the design of shoes has varied enormously through time and from culture to culture, with appearance originally being tied to function. Additionally, fashion has often dictated many design elements, such as whether shoes have very high heels or flat ones, contemporary footwear in the 2010s varies widely in style, complexity and cost. Basic sandals may consist of only a sole and simple strap. High fashion shoes made by famous designers may be made of materials, use complex construction. Some shoes are designed for specific purposes, such as boots designed specifically for mountaineering or skiing, traditionally, shoes have been made from leather, wood or canvas, but in the 2010s, they are increasingly made from rubber, plastics, and other petrochemical-derived materials. Though the human foot is adapted to varied terrain and climate conditions, it is vulnerable to environmental hazards such as sharp rocks and hot ground. Some shoes are worn as safety equipment, such as steel-soled boots which are required on construction sites, the earliest known shoes are sandals dating from approximately 7000 or 8000 BC, found in the Fort Rock Cave in the US state of Oregon in 1938. Ötzi the Icemans shoes, dating to 3300 BC, featured brown bearskin bases, deerskin side panels, and a bark-string net, the Jotunheimen shoe was discovered in August 2006. Archaeologists estimate that the shoe was made between 1800 and 1100 BC, making it the oldest article of clothing discovered in Scandinavia. It is thought that shoes may have used long before this. By studying the bones of the toes, it was observed that their thickness decreased approximately 40,000 to 26,000 years ago. This led archaeologists to deduce that wearing shoes resulted in less bone growth and these earliest designs were very simple in design, often mere foot bags of leather to protect the feet from rocks, debris, and cold. They were more commonly found in colder climates, many early natives in North America wore a similar type of footwear, known as the moccasin. These are tight-fitting, soft-soled shoes typically made out of leather or bison hides, many moccasins were also decorated with various beads and other adornments. Moccasins were not designed to be waterproof, and in wet weather and warm summer months, as civilizations began to develop, thong sandals were worn. This practice dates back to pictures of them in ancient Egyptian murals from 4000 BC, One pair found in Europe was made of papyrus leaves and dated to be approximately 1,500 years old. They were also worn in Jerusalem during the first century of the Common Era, thong sandals were worn by many civilizations and made from a wide variety of materials
25.
John Taylor (poet)
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John Taylor was an English poet who dubbed himself The Water Poet. He was born in Gloucester,24 August 1578, after his waterman apprenticeship he served in Essexs fleet, and was present at Flores in 1597 and at the siege of Cadiz. He details the uprisings in the pamphlets Iohn Taylors Manifestation. and in John Taylors Last Voyage and Adventure of 1641. Taylor discusses the watermens disputes with the companies in The True Cause of the Watermens Suit Concerning Players. An Arrant Thief says, All sorts of men, work all the means they can, To make a Thief of every waterman, And as it were in one consent they join, To trot by land i th dirt, and save their coin. When Queen Elizabeth came to the crown, A coach in England then was known, Then twas as rare to see one. Taylor was also the first poet to mention the deaths of William Shakespeare and Francis Beaumont in print, in his 1620 poem, both had died four years earlier. In paper, many a poet now survives Or else their lines had perishd with their lives. Old Chaucer, Gower, and Sir Thomas More, Sir Philip Sidney, who the laurel wore, Spenser, sylvester, Beaumont, Sir John Harrington, Forgetfulness their works would over run But that in paper they immortally Do live in spite of death, and cannot die. He was a prolific, if rough-hewn writer, with one hundred. Many were gathered into the compilation All the Workes of John Taylor the Water Poet, not included in the Folio edition of 1630. Although his work was not sophisticated, he was an observer of people and styles in the seventeenth century. An example is his 1621 work Taylors Motto, which included a list of then-current card games, from his journey to Scotland in 1618, on which he took no money, Taylor published his Pennyless Pilgrimage. Taylor is one of the few credited early authors of a palindrome, in 1614, he wrote Lewd did I live and he wrote a poem about Thomas Parr, a man who supposedly lived to the age of 152. He was also the author of a language called Barmoodan. Many of Taylors works were published by subscription, i. e. he would propose a book, ask for contributors, and write it when he had enough subscribers to undertake the printing costs. Those who defaulted on the subscription were chided the following year in a brochure entitled A Kicksey Winsey, or, A Lerry Come-Twang. By wondrous accident perchance one may Grope out a needle in a load of hay, And though a white crow be exceedingly rare, A blind man may, by fortune, catch a hare
26.
Laird
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Laird is a generic name for the owner of a large, long-named Scottish estate, roughly equivalent to an esquire in England, yet ranking above the same in Scotland. In the Scottish order of precedence, a laird ranks below a baron and this rank is only held by those lairds holding official recognition in a territorial designation by the Lord Lyon King of Arms. They are usually styled of, and are entitled to place The Much Honoured before their name. g. THE HOLDER IS THE LORD OF THE MANOR/LAIRD OF and it is a description rather than a title, and is not appropriate for the owner of a normal residential property, far less the owner of a small souvenir plot of land. It goes without saying that the term ‘laird’ is not synonymous with that of ‘lord’ or ‘lady’, ownership of a souvenir plot of land is not sufficient to bring a person otherwise ineligible within the jurisdiction of the Lord Lyon for the purpose of seeking a Grant of Arms. Historically, the bonnet laird was applied to rural, petty landowners. Bonnet lairds filled a position in society below lairds and above husbandmen, the word laird is known to have been used from the 15th century, and is a shortened form of laverd, derived from the Old English word hlafweard meaning warden of loaves. In the 15th and 16th centuries, the designation was used for land owners holding directly of the Crown, lairds reigned over their estates like princes, their castles forming a small court. Originally in the 16th and 17th centuries, the designation was applied to the chief of a highland clan. The laird may possess certain local or feudal rights, a certain level of landownership was a necessary qualification. A laird is said to hold a lairdship, a woman who holds a lairdship in her own right has been styled with the honorific Lady. Although laird is sometimes translated as lord and historically signifies the same, the designation is a corporeal hereditament, i. e. the designation cannot be held in gross, and cannot be bought and sold without selling the physical land. A laird possessing a Coat of Arms registered in the Public Register of All Arms, several websites, and internet vendors on websites like Ebay, sell Scottish lairdships along with small plots of land. They see their contract purporting to sell a plot of Scottish souvenir land as bestowing them the right to the title Laird. This is despite the fact that the buyer does not acquire ownership of the plot because registration of the plot is prohibited by Land Registration Act 2012, s 22. While tolerating public access, he feels threatened by new legislation, traditionally, a laird is formally styled in the manner evident on the 1730 tombstone in a Scottish churchyard. It reads, The Much Honoured Laird of, the section titled Scottish Feudal Baronies in Debretts states that the use of the prefix The Much Hon. is correct, but that most lairds prefer the unadorned name and territorial designation. By the early 20th century, the wife came to adopt her husbands full surname
27.
Braemar
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Braemar /breɪˈmɑːr/ is a village in Aberdeenshire, Scotland, around 58 miles west of Aberdeen in the Highlands. It is the closest significantly-sized settlement to the course of the River Dee sitting at an altitude of 339 metres. The Gaelic Bràigh Mhàrr properly refers to the area of upper Marr, i. e. the area of Marr to the west of Aboyne, the village itself being Castleton of Braemar. The village used to be known as Cinn Drochaid, Baile a Chaisteil referred to only the part of the village on the east bank of the river, the part on the west bank being known as Ach an Droighinn. Braemar is approached from the South on the A93 from Glen Clunie, Braemar can be approached on foot from the West through Glen Tilt, Glen Feshie, Glen Dee, and Glen Derry. Braemar is within an hour drive of Aberdeen, Dundee. The village is overlooked by Carn na Drochaide, by Creag Choinneach, by Carn na Sgliat, Braemar is the third coldest low lying place in the UK, after the villages of Dalwhinnie and Leadhills, with an annual average temperature of 6.8 °C. Braemar has twice entered the UK Weather Records with the lowest ever UK temperature of -27.2 °C, on 11 February 1895, Braemar has an average of 102 days of air frost and 153 days with 1 mm or more of rainfall. Snowfall can be heavy in winter and early spring, and often accumulates to depths of 30 cm or more, on 30 September 2015, Braemar had one of the largest recorded diurnal ranges of temperature in the UK. It also recorded the warmest and coldest temperatures for the UK for September 2015 on that day, the maximum temperature was 24.0 °C and the minimum was -1.3 °C. The very next day it was again the coldest and warmest place in the UK, the minimum temperature was -2.0 °C and the maximum was a new record for Braemar - it was 22.7 °C. Braemar recorded -5.0 °C later that month, meaning that for the month in a row. Also in 2015, temperatures reached a new record for November for Braemar of 17.7 °C set on the 2nd, historically the village is situated in the upper end of the historical Earldom of Mar or literally the Braes o Mar. In Scottish Gaelic, Bràigh Mhàrr referred to the general locality rather than the village itself, the use of Braemar to specifically refer to the village dates to around 1870. The names Auchendryne and Castleton are clearly marked on the current Ordnance Survey maps below the larger and bolder Braemar, the name Kindrochit is the source of the name Castleton being Bail Chasteil. On 6 September 1715, John Erskine, Earl of Mar raised the Jacobite standard at Braemar, instigating the 1715 rising against the Hanoverian Succession. In 1795, a Roman Catholic chapel was built on the high-ground to the west of Auchendryne giving the name to Chapel Brae which, according to Wyness, was being used as a school. Into the 20th century, the village was almost completely owned and divided by the estates of Mar, Auchendryne and Invercauld on one side
28.
Hose (clothing)
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Hose are any of various styles of mens clothing for the legs and lower body, worn from the Middle Ages through the 17th century, when the term fell out of use in favor of breeches and stockings. The old plural form of hose was hosen, early wool hose were fitted to the leg, and 15th century hose were often made particolored or mi-parti, having each leg a different colour, or even one leg made of two colors. These early hose were footed, in the manner of modern tights, when very short doublets were in fashion, codpieces were added to cover the front opening. By the 16th century, hose had separated into two garments, upper hose or breeches and nether hose or stockings, from the mid-16th to early 17th centuries, a variety of styles of hose were in fashion. Popular styles included, Trunk hose or round hose, short padded hose, very short trunk hose were worn over cannions, fitted hose that ended above the knee. Slops or galligaskins, loose hose reaching just below the knee, Trunk hose and slops could be paned or pansied, with strips of fabric over a full inner layer or lining. Pansied slop is a round hose characterized by the addition of a layer of panes and these are commonly referred to as pumpkin pants. Pluderhosen, a Northern European form of pansied slops with a full inner layer pulled out between the panes and hanging below the knee. Originating in Germany, Pluderhosen soon spread to central and Eastern Europe, venetians, semi-fitted hose reaching just below the knee. 1500–1550 in fashion 1550–1600 in fashion Notes Bibliography Arnold, Janet, Patterns of Fashion, hose in the Middle Ages and Renaissance 13th–16th century hose, from illustrations and museums
29.
Jerkin (garment)
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A jerkin is a mans short close-fitting jacket, made usually of light-coloured leather, and often without sleeves, worn over the doublet in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. The term is applied to a similar sleeveless garment worn by the British Army in the 20th century. The stock phrase buff jerkin refers to an oiled oxhide jerkin, the origin of the word is unknown. The Dutch word jurk, a frock, often taken as the source, is modern. Leather jerkins of the 16th century were often slashed and punched, jerkins were worn closed at the neck and hanging open over the peascod-bellied fashion of doublet. At the turn of the 17th century, the fashion was to wear the jerkin buttoned at the waist, by the mid-17th century, jerkins were high-waisted and long-skirted like doublets of the period. During the First World War, the British army issued brown leather jerkins to the troops as a measure to protect against the cold and these garments generally had four buttons and were lined with khaki wool. They were practical, hardwearing and extremely appreciated by officers and other ranks alike, by the time of the Second World War, the leather jerkins were still on issue to all the Commonwealth forces and were universally popular. Jerkins made in Canada were dark brown with black wool linings and it was issued to assault troops for the Normandy landings and was used widely by commando personnel in 1944–45. During the post war period, a less distinctive PVC version was introduced to the forces. WD surplus leather jerkins flooded the UK during the 1950s and 1960s and were a common sight on manual workmen across the country, wartime vintage leather jerkins are now collectors items, and at least one UK firm has produced a facsimile. The Belgian Army also produced vinyl jerkins in the postwar era, 1550–1600 in fashion 1600–1650 in fashion This article incorporates text from a publication now in the public domain, Chisholm, Hugh, ed. article name needed. Janet Arnold, Patterns of Fashion, the cut and construction of clothes for men and women 1560–1620, Macmillan 1985
30.
Straw
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Straw is an agricultural by-product, the dry stalks of cereal plants, after the grain and chaff have been removed. Straw makes up half of the yield of cereal crops such as barley, oats, rice, rye. It has many uses, including fuel, livestock bedding and fodder and it is usually gathered and stored in a straw bale, which is a bundle of straw tightly bound with twine or wire. Bales may be square, rectangular, or round, depending on the type of baler used. Current and historic uses of straw include, Animal feed Straw may be fed as part of the component of the diet to cattle or horses that are on a near maintenance level of energy requirement. It has a low energy and nutrient content. The heat generated when microorganisms in a herbivores gut digest straw can be useful in maintaining body temperature in cold climates, due to the risk of impaction and its poor nutrient profile, it should always be restricted to part of the diet. It may be fed as it is, or chopped into short lengths, basketry Bee skeps and linen baskets are made from coiled and bound together continuous lengths of straw. The technique is known as lip work, bedding, humans or livestock The straw-filled mattress, also known as a palliasse, is still used in many parts of the world. It is commonly used as bedding for ruminants and horses and it may be used as bedding and food for small animals, but this often leads to injuries to mouth, nose and eyes as straw is quite sharp. Biofuels The use of straw as an energy source is increasing rapidly, especially for biobutanol. Straw or hay briquettes are a substitute to coal. Biogas Straw, processed first as briquettes, has been fed into a plant in Aarhus University, Denmark. Biomass The use of straw in large-scale biomass power plants is becoming mainstream in the EU, the straw is either used directly in the form of bales, or densified into pellets which allows for the feedstock to be transported over longer distances. Finally, torrefaction of straw with pelletisation is gaining attention, because it increases the density of the resource. This processing step also makes storage easier, because torrefied straw pellets are hydrophobic. Torrefied straw in the form of pellets can be directly co-fired with coal or natural gas at high rates and make use of the processing infrastructures at existing coal. Because the torrefied straw pellets have superior structural, chemical and combustion properties to coal, they can replace all coal, first generation pellets are limited to a co-firing rate of 15% in modern IGCC plants
31.
Kerchief
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A kerchief also known as a bandana or bandanna, is a triangular or square piece of cloth tied around the head or around the neck for protective or decorative purposes. The popularity of head kerchiefs may vary by culture or religion, as among Orthodox Jewish and Christian, Amish and it is also worn as headdresses by Malay men in traditional occasions such as weddings by the grooms and the pesilat. Their headdresses are better known as tengkolok, a handkerchief or hanky primarily refers to a napkin made of cloth, used to dab away perspiration, clear the nostrils, or, in Victorian times, as a means of flirtation. A woman could intentionally drop a dainty square of lacy or embroidered fabric to give a man a chance to pick it up as an excuse to speak to her while returning it. Handkerchiefs were sometimes scented to be used like a nosegay or tussy-mussy, the popularity of the bandana and kerchief was at it highest point in the 1970s, 80s and 90s depending on ones location. After that its popularity started waning in the west, but some eastern cultures maintained its usage for a while and it is largely seen as gender neutral and can be worn by both men and women. Its usage, when wrapped up, was replaced by the headband. A bandana is a type of large, usually colorful, kerchief, bandanas are frequently printed in a paisley pattern and are most often used to hold hair back, either as a fashionable head accessory, or for practical purposes. Originated in India as bright coloured handkerchiefs of silk and cotton with spots in white on coloured grounds, chiefly red, the silk styles were made of the finest quality yarns, and were very popular. Bandana prints for clothing were first produced in Glasgow from cotton yarns, the term, at present, generally means a fabric in printed styles, whether silk, silk and cotton, or all cotton. Colors can be worn as a means of communication or identification, as with the prominent California criminal gangs, the Bloods, the Crips, the 18th Street gang, in gang subcultures, the bandana could be worn in a pocket or around the head. In the late 1960s/early 1970s, the Bloods and the Crips wore red, Handkerchief Handkerchief code Other neckwear Ascot tie Cravat Fichu Neckerchief Scarf Other headwear Do-rag Hachimaki Headband Headscarf/Hijab Tengkolok How to tie a bandanna How to wear a bandanna
32.
Hebrides
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The Hebrides comprise a widespread and diverse archipelago off the west coast of mainland Scotland. There are two groups, the Inner and Outer Hebrides. This diversity is reflected in the given to the islands. The Hebrides are the source of much of Scottish Gaelic literature, today the economy of the islands is dependent on crofting, fishing, tourism, the oil industry, and renewable energy. The Hebrides have lower biodiversity than mainland Britain, but there is a significant presence of seals, the Hebrides have a diverse geology ranging in age from Precambrian strata that are amongst the oldest rocks in Europe to Paleogene igneous intrusions. The Hebrides can be divided into two groups, separated from one another by the Minch to the north and the Sea of the Hebrides to the south. The Inner Hebrides lie closer to mainland Scotland and include Islay, Jura, Skye, Mull, Raasay, Staffa, there are 36 inhabited islands in this group. The Outer Hebrides are a chain of more than 100 islands, there are 15 inhabited islands in this archipelago. The main islands include Barra, Benbecula, Berneray, Harris, Lewis, North Uist, South Uist, in total, the islands have an area of approximately 7,200 square kilometres and a population of 44,759. A complication is that there are descriptions of the scope of the Hebrides. The Collins Encyclopedia of Scotland describes the Inner Hebrides as lying east of the Minch, there are various islands that lie in the sea lochs such as Eilean Bàn and Eilean Donan that might not ordinarily be described as Hebridean, but no formal definitions exist. In the past, the Outer Hebrides were often referred to as the Long Isle, today, they are also known as the Western Isles, although this phrase can also be used to refer to the Hebrides in general. The Hebrides have a temperate climate that is remarkably mild and steady for such a northerly latitude. In the Outer Hebrides the average temperature for the year is 6 °C in January and 14 °C in summer, the average annual rainfall in Lewis is 1,100 millimetres and sunshine hours range from 1,100 –1,200 per annum. The summer days are long, and May to August is the driest period. The Hebrides were settled during the Mesolithic era around 6500 BC or earlier, after the conditions improved enough to sustain human settlement. Occupation at a site on Rùm is dated to 8590 ±95 uncorrected radiocarbon years BP, there are many examples of structures from the Neolithic period, the finest example being the standing stones at Callanish, dating to the 3rd millennium BC. Cladh Hallan, a Bronze Age settlement on South Uist is the site in the UK where prehistoric mummies have been found
33.
Buckle
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The buckle or clasp is a device used for fastening two loose ends, with one end attached to it and the other held by a catch in a secure but adjustable manner. Often taken for granted, the invention of the buckle has been indispensable in securing two ends before the invention of the zipper, the basic buckle frame comes in a variety of shapes and sizes depending on the intended use and fashion of the era. Buckles are as much in use today as they have been in the past, used for much more than just securing one’s belt, instead it is one of the most dependable devices in securing a range of items. The word buckle enters Middle English via Old French and the Latin buccula or cheek-strap, some of the earliest buckles known are those used by Roman soldiers to strap their body armor together and prominently on the balteus and cingulum. Made out of bronze and expensive, these buckles were purely functional for their strength and durability vital to the individual soldier. The baldric was a belt worn diagonally over the right shoulder down to the waist at the left carrying the sword. Bronze Roman buckles came in various types, not only used for practical purposes, these buckles were also decorated. A Type I Roman buckle was a “buckle-plate” either decorated or plain, Type IA Roman buckles were similar to Type I buckles but differed by being long and narrow, made of double sheet metal, and attached to small D-shaped buckles. Type IB “buckle-loops” were even more similar to Type IA buckles, only difference being that instead of dolphin-heads, they were adorned with horse-heads. There were also Type II buckles used by Romans, but all types of Roman buckles could have served purposes for simple clothing as well, aside from the practical use found in Roman buckles, Scythian and Sarmatian buckles incorporated animal motifs that were characteristic to their respective decorative arts. These motifs often represented animals engaged in mortal combat and these motifs were imported by many Germanic peoples and the belt buckles were evident in the graves of the Franks and Burgundies. And throughout the Middle Ages, the buckle was used mostly for ornamentation until the half of the 14th century where the knightly belt. The buckle essentially consists of four components, the frame, chape, bar. The oldest Roman buckles are of a simple D-shaped frame, in which the prong or tongue extends from one side to the other, in the 14th century, buckles with a double-loop or 8-shaped frame emerged. The prongs of these attach to the center post. The appearance of multi-part buckles with chapes and removable pins, which were found on shoes. The frame is the most visible part of the buckle and holds the parts of the buckle together. Buckle frames come in shapes, sizes, and decorations
34.
Merk (coin)
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The merk was a Scottish silver coin. Originally the same word as a mark of silver, the merk was in circulation at the end of the 16th century. It was originally valued at 13s 4d, later raised to 14s Scots, in addition to merks, half-merk and quarter-merk coins were produced with values of, respectively, 7s and 3s 6d, as well as a four-merk coin of 56s. The first issue weighed 103.8 grains and was 50% silver and 50% base metals, thus it contained 0.108125 troy ounces of silver, markland or Merkland was used to describe an amount of land in Scottish deeds and legal papers. It was based upon a common valuation of the land
35.
Animal style
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Animal style art is an approach to decoration found from China to Northern Europe in the early Iron Age, and the barbarian art of the Migration Period, characterized by its emphasis on animal motifs. The zoomorphic style of decoration was used to small objects by warrior-herdsmen, whose economy was based entirely on animals. Scythian art makes use of energetic animal motifs, one component of the Scythian triad of weapons, horse-harness. These cultures were extremely influential in spreading many local versions of the style, steppe jewellery features various animals including stags, cats, birds, horses, bears, wolves and mythical beasts. The gold figures of stags in a position with legs tucked beneath its body, head upright. The looped antlers of most figures are a feature, not found in Chinese images of deer. The species represented has seemed to many scholars to be the reindeer, the largest of these were the central ornaments for shields, while others were smaller plaques probably attached to clothing. The stag appears to have had a significance for the steppes peoples. Another characteristic form is the openwork plaque including a tree over the scene at one side. Later large Greek-made pieces often include a zone showing Scythian men apparently going about their daily business, some scholars have attempted to attach narrative meanings to such scenes, but this remains speculative. Although gold was used by the ruling elite of the various Scythian tribes. The bulk of items were used to decorate horse harness. In some cases these bronze animal figures when sewn onto stiff leather jerkins & belts, the use of the animal form went further than just ornament, these seemingly imbuing the owner of the item with similar prowess and powers of the animal which was depicted. Thus the use of these forms extended onto the accoutrements of warfare, be they swords, daggers, scabbards, or axes. A distinct Permian style of bronze or copper alloy objects from around the 5th - 10th centuries CE are found near the Ural mountains, the study of Germanic zoomorphic decoration was pioneered by Bernhard Salin in a work published in 1904. Salin classified animal art from roughly 400 to 900 CE into three phases, Styles I and II are found widely across Europe in the art of the barbarian peoples during the Migration Period. First appearing in northwest Europe, first expressed with the introduction of the chip carving technique applied to bronze and it is characterized by animals whose bodies are divided into sections, and typically appear at the fringes of designs whose main emphasis is on abstract patterns. After about 560-570 Style I, declining, began to be supplanted, the animals become subsumed into ornamental patterns, typically interlace
36.
Smoky quartz
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Smoky quartz is a grey, translucent variety of quartz. It ranges in clarity from almost complete transparency to a crystal that is almost opaque. Like other quartz gems, it is a silicon dioxide crystal, the smoky colour results from free silicon, formed from the silicon dioxide by natural irradiation. A very dark brown to black variety is known as morion. Morion is the German, Danish, Spanish and Polish synonym for smoky quartz, the name is from a misreading of mormorion in Pliny the Elder. Cairngorm is a variety of quartz crystal found in the Cairngorm Mountains of Scotland. It usually has a smokey yellow-brown colour, though some specimens are a grey-brown and it is used in Scottish jewellery and as a decoration on kilt pins and the handles of sgian dubhs. The largest known cairngorm crystal is a 23.6 kg specimen kept at Braemar Castle, Smoky quartz is common and was not historically important, but in recent times it has become a popular gemstone, especially for jewellery. Sunglasses, in the form of flat panes of smoky quartz, were used in China in the 12th century, the Cause of Color in Smoky Quartz and Amethyst in American Mineralologist, vol. 9, pp. 203–252 Mineral Galleries - smoky quartz
37.
Pleat
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A pleat is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place. It is commonly used in clothing and upholstery to gather a wide piece of fabric to a narrower circumference, pleats are categorized as pressed, that is, ironed or otherwise heat-set into a sharp crease, or unpressed, falling in soft rounded folds. Pleats sewn into place are called tucks, a vertically hanging piece of fabric such as a skirt or a drape will often be described in terms of its fullness. Accordion pleats or knife pleats are a form of tight pleating which allows the garment to expand its shape when moving. Accordion pleating is also used for some dress sleeves, such as pleating the end of the elbow and this form of pleating inspired the skirt dancing of Loie Fuller. Accordion pleats may also be used in hand fans, box pleats are knife pleats back-to-back, and have a tendency to spring out from the waistline. They have the same 3,1 ratio as knife pleats and these stacked box pleats create more fullness and have a 5,1 ratio. They also create a bulkier seam, inverted box pleats have the box on the inside rather than the outside. Cartridge pleats are used to gather a large amount of fabric into a small waistband or armscye without adding bulk to the seam and this type of pleating also allows the fabric of the skirt or sleeve to spring out from the seam. During the 15th and 16th centuries, this form of pleating was popular in the garments of men and women, Fabric is evenly gathered using two or more lengths of basting stitches, and the top of each pleat is whipstitched onto the waistband or armscye. Cartridge pleating was resurrected in 1840s fashion to attach the increasingly full bell-shaped skirts to the narrow waist. Fluted pleats or flutings are very small, rounded or pressed pleats used as trimmings, the name comes from their resemblance to a pan flute. Fortuny pleats are crisp pleats set in silk fabrics by designer Mariano Fortuny in the early 20th century, honeycomb pleats are narrow, rolled pleats used as a foundation for smocking. Kick pleats are short pleats leading upwards from the hem of garments such as skirts or coats. They allow the garment to drape straight down when stationary while allowing freedom of movement. Organ pleats are parallel rows of softly rounded pleats resembling the pipes of a pipe organ, carl Köhler suggests that these are made by inserting one or more gores into a panel of fabric. Plissé pleats are narrow pleats set by gathering fabric with stitches, wetting the fabric, linen chemises or smocks pleated with this technique have been found in the 10th century Viking graves in Birka. Rolled pleats create tubular pleats which run the length of the fabric from top to bottom, a piece of the fabric to be pleated is pinched and then rolled until it is flat against the rest of the fabric, forming a tube
38.
Belt (clothing)
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A belt is a flexible band or strap, typically made of leather or heavy cloth, and worn around the waist. A belt supports trousers or other articles of clothing and it is an item of accessory. Belts have been documented as male clothing since the Bronze Age, both genders have used them off and on, depending on the current fashion. In the western world, belts have been common for men, with the exception of the early Middle Ages, late 17th century Mantua. Art Nouveau belt buckles are now collectors items, in the latter half of the 19th century and until the First World War, the belt was a decorative as well as utilitarian part of military uniform, particularly among officers. These tightly cinched belts served to draw in the waist and give the wearer a trim physique, emphasizing wide shoulders, in modern times, men started wearing belts in the 1920s, as trouser waists fell to a lower line. Before the 1920s, belts served mostly a decorative purpose, and were associated with the military, moreover, prior to that trousers did not even have belt loops. As sportswear, trousers with belt loops were already present in the 19th century, today it is common for men to wear a belt with their trousers. In some countries, especially the United States, a belt can be associated with corporal punishment. Moreover, belts are convenient disciplinary tools, as they are immediately available for use. The belt can symbolize fatherly authority and paternal responsibility for childrens behavior. Since the mid-1990s, the practice of sagging has been practised at times among young men and this practice is sometimes incorrectly believed to have originated with prison gangs and the prohibition of belts in prison. One specialized type of belt is the utility belt or Police duty belt, Police officers, soldiers, and repair personnel are typical roles which use this kind of belt. Duty belts are generally wider than dress belts, and are stiffer to provide for the carry of heavy items such as pistols. It is common practice for such a belt to be a symbol of authority or to indicate that the wearer is on duty. Such belts are worn even if no equipment is carried on them, a notable fictional example is Batmans utility belt. The obi is traditionally part of a Japanese kimono, a common sight in fantasy and role playing characters is the excessive use of belts in all different sizes on the characters person. Usually they are used for securing clothing or armor, but others just have several belts around the arms, legs, neck, waist, hips, sometimes they are used in place of eye patches or to decorate weapons
39.
Chain
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A chain is typically made of metal. A chain may consist of two or more links and they are known as roller chains, though there are also non-roller chains such as block chain. Although cisterns no longer work like that, the pull the chain is still encountered to mean flush the toilet. The prevalent modern symbolism is oppression, due to the use for a restriction of the liberty of a human or animal. Chains can also symbolize interconnectivity or interdependence, unicode, in versions 6. x, contains the U+1F517
40.
Inch
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The inch is a unit of length in the imperial and United States customary systems of measurement now formally equal to 1⁄36 yard but usually understood as 1⁄12 of a foot. Derived from the Roman uncia, inch is also used to translate related units in other measurement systems. The English word inch was a borrowing from Latin uncia not present in other Germanic languages. The vowel change from Latin /u/ to English /ɪ/ is known as umlaut, the consonant change from the Latin /k/ to English /tʃ/ or /ʃ/ is palatalisation. Both were features of Old English phonology, inch is cognate with ounce, whose separate pronunciation and spelling reflect its reborrowing in Middle English from Anglo-Norman unce and ounce. In many other European languages, the word for inch is the same as or derived from the word for thumb, the inch is a commonly used customary unit of length in the United States, Canada, and the United Kingdom. It is also used in Japan for electronic parts, especially display screens, for example, three feet two inches can be written as 3′ 2″. Paragraph LXVII sets out the fine for wounds of various depths, one inch, one shilling, an Anglo-Saxon unit of length was the barleycorn. After 1066,1 inch was equal to 3 barleycorns, which continued to be its legal definition for several centuries, similar definitions are recorded in both English and Welsh medieval law tracts. One, dating from the first half of the 10th century, is contained in the Laws of Hywel Dda which superseded those of Dyfnwal, both definitions, as recorded in Ancient Laws and Institutes of Wales, are that three lengths of a barleycorn is the inch. However, the oldest surviving manuscripts date from the early 14th century, john Bouvier similarly recorded in his 1843 law dictionary that the barleycorn was the fundamental measure. He noted that this process would not perfectly recover the standard, before the adoption of the international yard and pound, various definitions were in use. In the United Kingdom and most countries of the British Commonwealth, the United States adopted the conversion factor 1 metre =39.37 inches by an act in 1866. In 1930, the British Standards Institution adopted an inch of exactly 25.4 mm, the American Standards Association followed suit in 1933. By 1935, industry in 16 countries had adopted the industrial inch as it came to be known, in 1946, the Commonwealth Science Congress recommended a yard of exactly 0.9144 metres for adoption throughout the British Commonwealth. This was adopted by Canada in 1951, the United States on 1 July 1959, Australia in 1961, effective 1 January 1964, and the United Kingdom in 1963, effective on 1 January 1964. The new standards gave an inch of exactly 25.4 mm,1.7 millionths of a longer than the old imperial inch and 2 millionths of an inch shorter than the old US inch. The United States retains the 1/39. 37-metre definition for survey purposes and this is approximately 1/8-inch in a mile
41.
Precious coral
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Precious coral or red coral is the common name given to Corallium rubrum and several related species of marine coral. The distinguishing characteristic of precious corals is their durable and intensely colored red or pink skeleton, red corals grow on rocky seabottom with low sedimentation, typically in dark environments—either in the depths or in dark caverns or crevices. The original species, C. rubrum, is mainly in the Mediterranean Sea. It grows at depths from 10 to 300 meters below sea level, in the underwater caves of Alghero, Sardinia it grows at depth from 4 to 35 meters. The same species is found at Atlantic sites near the Strait of Gibraltar, at the Cape Verde Islands. Other Corallium species are native to the western Pacific, notably around Japan and Taiwan, in common with other Alcyonacea, red corals have the shape of small leafless bushes and grow up to a meter in height. Their valuable skeleton is composed of intermeshed spicules of calcium carbonate. In living specimens, the branches are overlaid with soft bright red integument. The polyps exhibit radial symmetry. The following are species in the genus, The hard skeleton of red coral branches is naturally matte. It exhibits a range of reddish pink colors from pale pink to deep red. Owing to its intense and permanent coloration and glossiness, precious coral skeletons have been harvested since antiquity for decorative use, Coral jewellery has been found in ancient Egyptian and prehistoric European burials, and continues to be made to the present day. It was especially popular during the Victorian age, precious coral has relative density of 3.86 and hardness 3.5 on the Mohs scale. Due to its softness and opacity, coral is usually cut en cabochon, among the Romans, branches of coral were hung around childrens necks to preserve them from danger, and the substance had many medicinal virtues attributed to it. The belief in corals potency as a charm continued throughout the Middle Ages and early in 20th century Italy it was worn as a protection from the evil eye, and by women as a cure for infertility. From the Middle Ages onwards, the securing of the right to the coral fisheries off the African coasts was the object of considerable rivalry among the Mediterranean communities of Europe. The story of the Torre del Greco is so interwoven with that of the coral so as to constitute an inseparable pair, in 1790 the Royal Society of Coral was established in the town of Torre del Greco, with the idea of working and selling coral fish. This shows that the coral fishing flourished for many years in the city
42.
Sleeve
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A sleeve is the part of a garment that covers the arm, or through which the arm passes or slips. The pattern of the sleeve is one of the characteristics of fashion in dress, varying in every country, various survivals of the early forms of sleeve are still found in the different types of academic or other robes. Where the long hanging sleeve is worn it has, as still in China and Japan, been used as a pocket, whence has come the phrase to have up ones sleeve, to have something concealed ready to produce. There are many other proverbial and metaphorical expressions associated with the sleeve, such as to ones heart upon ones sleeve. Sleeve length varies from barely over the shoulder to floor-length, most contemporary shirt sleeves end somewhere between the mid-upper arm and the wrist. Early medieval sleeves were cut straight, and underarm triangle-shaped gussets were used to ease of movement. In the 14th century, the sleeve cap was invented. Often the names applied to sleeves in historical costume are modern, oxford English Dictionary Picken, Mary Brooks, The Fashion Dictionary, Funk and Wagnalls,1957. Media related to Sleeves at Wikimedia Commons
43.
Waistcoat
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A waistcoat is a sleeveless upper-body garment. It is usually worn over a shirt and necktie and below a coat as a part of most mens formal wear. It is also sported as the piece in the traditional three-piece male business suit. A waistcoat has a vertical opening in the front, which fastens with buttons or snaps. Both single-breasted and double-breasted waistcoats exist, regardless of the formality of dress, in a three piece suit, the cloth used matches the jacket and trousers. Waistcoats can also have lapels or revers depending on the style, before wristwatches became popular, gentlemen kept their pocket watches in the front waistcoat pocket, with the watch on a watch chain threaded through a buttonhole. Sometimes an extra hole was made in line with the buttonholes for this use, a bar on the end of the chain held it in place to catch the chain if it were dropped or pulled. Waistcoats are now worn less, so the pocket watch may more likely be stored in a trouser pocket, wearing a belt with a waistcoat, and indeed any suit, is not traditional. To give a more comfortable hang to the trousers, the waistcoat instead covers a pair of braces underneath it, a custom still sometimes practised is to leave the bottom button undone. This is said to have started by King Edward VII. Variations on this include that he forgot to fasten the lower button when dressing and it has also been suggested that the practice originated to prevent the waistcoat riding up when on horseback. This convention only applies to single-breasted day waistcoats and not double breasted, evening, waistcoats worn with lounge suits normally match the suit in cloth, and have four to six buttons. Double breasted waistcoats are rare compared to single, as formalwear, it used to be common to wear a contrastingly coloured waistcoat, such as in buff or dove linen. This is still seen in morning dress, which requires a waistcoat, the waistcoats worn with white- and black- tie are different from standard daytime single-breasted waistcoats, being much lower in cut. The variant of the clergy cassock may be cut as a vest and it differs in style from other waistcoats in that the garment buttons to the neck and has an opening that displays the clerical collar. In the Church of England, a particular High Church clerical vest introduced in the 1830s was nicknamed the M. B, waistcoat with M. B. standing for the Mark of the Beast. In the Girl Scouts of the USA, vests are used as an alternative to the sash for the display of badges, in many stock exchanges, traders who engage in open outcry may wear colored sleeveless waistcoats, or trading jackets, with insignia on the back. The waistcoat is one of the few articles of clothing whose origin historians can date precisely, King Charles II of England, Scotland and Ireland introduced the waistcoat as a part of correct dress after the Restoration of the British monarchy in 1660
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Lace
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Lace is a delicate fabric made of yarn or thread in an open weblike pattern, made by machine or by hand. Originally linen, silk, gold, or silver threads were used, now lace is often made with cotton thread, although linen and silk threads are still available. Manufactured lace may be made of synthetic fiber, a few modern artists make lace with a fine copper or silver wire instead of thread. The word lace is from Middle English, from Old French las, noose, strin, from Vulgar Latin *laceum, from Latin laqueus, noose, probably akin to lacere, there are many types of lace, classified by how they are made. These include, Needle lace, such as Venetian Gros Point, is using a needle. This is the most flexible of the lace-making arts, while some types can be made more quickly than the finest of bobbin laces, others are very time-consuming. Some purists regard needle lace as the height of lace-making, the finest antique needle laces were made from a very fine thread that is not manufactured today. Cutwork, or whitework, is constructed by removing threads from a woven background. Bobbin lace, as the name suggests, is made with bobbins, the bobbins, turned from wood, bone, or plastic, hold threads which are woven together and held in place with pins stuck in the pattern on the pillow. The pillow contains straw, preferably oat straw or other such as sawdust, insulation styrofoam. Chantilly lace is a type of bobbin lace, tape lace makes the tape in the lace as it is worked, or uses a machine- or hand-made textile strip formed into a design, then joined and embellished with needle or bobbin lace. Knotted lace includes macramé and tatting, tatted lace is made with a shuttle or a tatting needle. Crocheted lace includes Irish crochet, pineapple crochet, and filet crochet, knitted lace includes Shetland lace, such as the wedding ring shawl, a lace shawl so fine that it can be pulled through a wedding ring. Machine-made lace is any style of lace created or replicated using mechanical means, chemical lace, the stitching area is stitched with embroidery threads that form a continuous motif. Afterwards, the areas are removed and only the embroidery remains. The stitching ground is made of a water-soluble or non-heat-resistant material, the origin of lace is disputed by historians. An Italian claim is a will of 1493 by the Milanese Sforza family, a Flemish claim is lace on the alb of a worshiping priest in a painting about 1485 by Hans Memling. But since lace evolved from techniques, it is impossible to say that it originated in any one place
45.
Button
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In modern clothing and fashion design, a button is a small fastener, now most commonly made of plastic, but also frequently of metal, wood or seashell, which secures two pieces of fabric together. In archaeology, a button can be a significant artifact, in the applied arts and in craft, a button can be an example of folk art, studio craft, or even a miniature work of art. Buttons are most often attached to articles of clothing but can also be used on such as wallets. However, buttons may be sewn onto garments and similar items exclusively for purposes of ornamentation, buttons serving as fasteners work by slipping through a fabric or thread loop, or by sliding through a buttonhole. Other types of fastenings include zippers, Velcro and magnets, buttons made from seashell were used in the Indus Valley Civilization for ornamental purposes by 2000 BCE. Some buttons were carved into geometric shapes and had holes pierced into them so that they could be attached to clothing with thread. Ian McNeil holds that, The button, in fact, was used more as an ornament than as a fastening. It is made of a shell and about 5000 years old. Functional buttons with buttonholes for fastening or closing clothes appeared first in Germany in the 13th century and they soon became widespread with the rise of snug-fitting garments in 13th- and 14th-century Europe. At least one modern smuggler has tried to use this method, also making use of the storage possibilities of metal buttons, during the World Wars, British and U. S. military locket buttons were made, containing miniature working compasses. Buttons can be crafted by artisans, craftspeople or artists from raw materials or found objects. Alternatively, they can be the product of low-tech cottage industry or can be mass-produced in high-tech factories, buttons made by artists are art objects, known to button collectors as studio buttons. Vegetable ivory was said to be the most popular for suits and shirts, nowadays, hard plastic, seashell, metals, and wood are the most common materials used in button-making, the others tending to be used only in premium or antique apparel, or found in collections. Over 60% of the worlds supply comes from Qiaotou, Yongjia County. Flat or sew-through buttons have holes through which thread is sewn to attach the button, flat buttons may be attached by sewing machine rather than by hand, and may be used with heavy fabrics by working a thread shank to extend the height of the button above the fabric. Popular examples of such buttons are shirt studs and cufflinks, Snap fasteners are metal round discs pinched through the fabric. They are often found on clothing, in particular on denim pieces such as pants and jackets and they are more securely fastened to the material. As they rely on a metal rivet attached securely to the fabric and they are made of two couples, the male stud couple and the female stud couple
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