1.
Inverneill House
–
Inverneill House is a country house in Argyll, western Scotland. It stands on the west shore of Loch Fyne, around 4 miles south of Lochgilphead, although the house is not listed, the walled gardens and mausoleum on the estate are protected as category B listed buildings. The lands of Inverneill first came into Campbell hands in 1480 when the lands of Knapdale were granted to Colin Campbell, in 1773, it passed to a branch of Campbell of Craignish, Sir Archibald Campbell became the owner of the estate. It was his brother, Sir James Campbell of Killean, Perthshire. The walled garden with its 20-foot high wall containing two turrets was reputed to be one of the finest in Scotland for fruit and vegetables of all kinds, Lt Col. Duncan Campbell, 7th of Inverneill, added the three-storey wing around 1890. The house was occupied by the Campbell family until 1955 when it was sold, the last two occupants were the Misses Olive and Una Campbell. Their sister Ysobel who had married and became Mrs. Stewart of Fasnacloich was the founder of the Scottish Country Dance Society, a country dance named Inverneill House was composed in her honour. J. P. Lt. Colonel Duncan Campbell, 7th of Inverneill, J. P. Lt. Colonel Duncan Campbell, 8th of Inverneill, J. P
Inverneill House
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Inverneill House
2.
National dress
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A folk costume expresses an identity through costume, which is usually associated with a geographic area or a period of time in history. It can also indicate social, marital and/or religious status, such costumes often come in two forms, one for everyday occasions, the other for festivals and formal wear. Following the outbreak of nationalism, the peasantry of Europe came to serve as models for all that appeared genuine. Their dress crystallised into so-called typical forms, and enthusiasts adopted that attire as part of their symbolism, in areas where Western dress codes have become usual, traditional garments are often worn at special events or celebrations, particularly those connected with cultural traditions, heritage or pride. International events may cater for non-Western attendees with a dress code such as business suit or national dress. In modern times, there are instances where traditional garments are required by sumptuary laws, in Bhutan, the traditional Tibetan-style clothing of gho and kera for men, kira and toego for women, must be worn by all citizens, including those not of Tibetan heritage. In Saudi Arabia, women are required to wear the abaya in public. Tibet – Chuba Inner Mongolia – Deel Japan – Kimono, Junihitoe, also, all aboriginal tribes have a distinct tribal costume. Every ethnic group in the country has their national costume, kebayas, sarongs and the Beskap jacket of the Javanese and the Kain batik and dance costumes of Bali are some examples. Vietnam – Áo giao lĩnh, Áo dài, Áo tứ thân, abkhazia – Chokha Armenia – Each region has its own style of folk costume. Kuwait – Thawb Oman – Dishdasha Ossetia – Chokha Qatar – Kandura Palestine – Keffiyeh, Taqiyah, Saudi Arabia – Thawb, Ghutrah, Agal, Bisht, Abaya, Jilbab, Niqab Syria – Dishdasha Turkey – Fez, Kaftan, Shalvar. United Arab Emirates – Kandura Yemen – Similar to Saudi Arabia, scotland – Highland dress, Kilt or trews, tam oshanter or Balmoral bonnet, doublet, Aboyne dress, and brogues or ghillies. Greek fishermans caps in many villages by the Aegean sea. Italy – Italian folk dance costumes, Roman clothing, Toga, Stola South Tyrol – Tracht, slovenia – Gorenjska noša Spain – Every autonomous region has its own national costume. For example, Bavarias well-known Tracht, Lederhosen and Dirndl, liechtenstein – Tracht, Dirndl Netherlands – Dutch cap, Klompen, poffer Switzerland – Every canton has its own specific design of a national costume. A good example is seen in the attire of Paul Bunyan. Deep South and other parts of the American South – Traditional Southern US wear includes white seersucker suits and string ties for men and these short pants remained commonplace among young urban American boys until the mid 20th century. Nantucket – Summer residents of Nantucket will often wear Nantucket Reds, amish, the Pennsylvania Dutch and some sects of Mormon fundamentalism preserve traditional 19th century clothing styles
National dress
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Faroese folk dance club with some members in national costumes.
National dress
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Ugandan women in
gomesi
National dress
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Somali woman in traditional attire
National dress
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Berber boys in folk wear
3.
Scotland
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Scotland is a country that is part of the United Kingdom and covers the northern third of the island of Great Britain. It shares a border with England to the south, and is surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean, with the North Sea to the east. In addition to the mainland, the country is made up of more than 790 islands, including the Northern Isles, the Kingdom of Scotland emerged as an independent sovereign state in the Early Middle Ages and continued to exist until 1707. By inheritance in 1603, James VI, King of Scots, became King of England and King of Ireland, Scotland subsequently entered into a political union with the Kingdom of England on 1 May 1707 to create the new Kingdom of Great Britain. The union also created a new Parliament of Great Britain, which succeeded both the Parliament of Scotland and the Parliament of England. Within Scotland, the monarchy of the United Kingdom has continued to use a variety of styles, titles, the legal system within Scotland has also remained separate from those of England and Wales and Northern Ireland, Scotland constitutes a distinct jurisdiction in both public and private law. Glasgow, Scotlands largest city, was one of the worlds leading industrial cities. Other major urban areas are Aberdeen and Dundee, Scottish waters consist of a large sector of the North Atlantic and the North Sea, containing the largest oil reserves in the European Union. This has given Aberdeen, the third-largest city in Scotland, the title of Europes oil capital, following a referendum in 1997, a Scottish Parliament was re-established, in the form of a devolved unicameral legislature comprising 129 members, having authority over many areas of domestic policy. Scotland is represented in the UK Parliament by 59 MPs and in the European Parliament by 6 MEPs, Scotland is also a member nation of the British–Irish Council, and the British–Irish Parliamentary Assembly. Scotland comes from Scoti, the Latin name for the Gaels, the Late Latin word Scotia was initially used to refer to Ireland. By the 11th century at the latest, Scotia was being used to refer to Scotland north of the River Forth, alongside Albania or Albany, the use of the words Scots and Scotland to encompass all of what is now Scotland became common in the Late Middle Ages. Repeated glaciations, which covered the land mass of modern Scotland. It is believed the first post-glacial groups of hunter-gatherers arrived in Scotland around 12,800 years ago, the groups of settlers began building the first known permanent houses on Scottish soil around 9,500 years ago, and the first villages around 6,000 years ago. The well-preserved village of Skara Brae on the mainland of Orkney dates from this period and it contains the remains of an early Bronze Age ruler laid out on white quartz pebbles and birch bark. It was also discovered for the first time that early Bronze Age people placed flowers in their graves, in the winter of 1850, a severe storm hit Scotland, causing widespread damage and over 200 deaths. In the Bay of Skaill, the storm stripped the earth from a large irregular knoll, when the storm cleared, local villagers found the outline of a village, consisting of a number of small houses without roofs. William Watt of Skaill, the laird, began an amateur excavation of the site, but after uncovering four houses
Scotland
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Edinburgh Castle. Human habitation of the site is dated back as far as the 9th century BC, although the nature of this early settlement is unclear.
Scotland
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Flag
Scotland
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The class I
Pictish stone at
Aberlemno known as Aberlemno 1 or the Serpent Stone.
Scotland
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The
Wallace Monument commemorates
William Wallace, the 13th-century Scottish hero.
4.
Tartan
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Tartan is a pattern consisting of criss-crossed horizontal and vertical bands in multiple colours. Tartans originated in woven wool, but now they are made in other materials. Tartan is particularly associated with Scotland, Scottish kilts almost always have tartan patterns. Tartan is often called plaid in North America, but in Scotland, Tartan is made with alternating bands of coloured threads woven as both warp and weft at right angles to each other. The weft is woven in a simple twill, two over—two under the warp, advancing one thread at each pass and this forms visible diagonal lines where different colours cross, which give the appearance of new colours blended from the original ones. The resulting blocks of colour repeat vertically and horizontally in a pattern of squares and lines known as a sett. The Dress Act of 1746 attempted to bring the clans under government control by banning the tartan. When the law was repealed in 1782, it was no longer ordinary Highland dress, until the middle of the nineteenth century, the highland tartans were only associated with either regions or districts, rather than any specific Scottish clan. Today tartan is no longer limited to textiles, but is used on non-woven mediums, such as paper, plastics, packaging, the English word tartan is most likely derived from the French tartarin meaning Tartar cloth. It has also suggested that tartan may be derived from modern Scottish Gaelic tarsainn. Today tartan usually refers to coloured patterns, though originally a tartan did not have to be made up of any pattern at all, as late as the 1830s tartan was sometimes described as plain coloured. Patterned cloth from the Gaelic-speaking Scottish Highlands was called breacan, meaning many colours, over time the meanings of tartan and breacan were combined to describe certain type of pattern on a certain type of cloth. The pattern of a tartan is called a sett, the sett is made up of a series of woven threads which cross at right angles. Today tartan is used to describe the pattern, not limited to textiles. In North America the term plaid is commonly used to describe tartan, the word plaid, derived from the Scottish Gaelic plaide, meaning blanket, was first used of any rectangular garment, sometimes made up of tartan, particularly that which preceded the modern kilt. In time, plaid was used to describe blankets themselves, each thread in the warp crosses each thread in the weft at right angles. Thus, a set of two base colours produces three different colours including one mixture and this means that the more stripes and colours used, the more blurred and subdued the tartans pattern becomes. The sequence of threads, known as the sett, starts at an edge, in diagram A, the sett reverses at the first pivot, then repeats, then reverses at the next pivot, and will carry on in this manner horizontally
Tartan
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Soldiers from a Highland Regiment circa 1744. The
private (on the left) is wearing a
belted plaid.
Tartan
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The earliest image of Scottish soldiers wearing tartan, from a woodcut c.1631
Tartan
–
John Campbell of the Bank, 1749. The present official
Clan Campbell tartans are predominantly blue, green and black.
5.
Kilt
–
A kilt is a knee-length non-bifurcated skirt-type garment with pleats at the rear, originating in the traditional dress of men and boys in the Scottish Highlands of the 16th century. Since the 19th century, it has associated with the wider culture of Scotland. It is most often made of cloth in a tartan pattern. Particularly in North America kilts are now made for wear in a variety of materials. Alternative fastenings may be used and pockets inserted to avoid the need for a sporran, kilts have been adopted as female wear for some sports. The kilt first appeared as the kilt, the breacan or belted plaid, during the 16th century. The filleadh mòr or great kilt was a full-length garment whose upper half could be worn as a cloak draped over the shoulder, or brought up over the head. A version of the filleadh beag, or small kilt, similar to the kilt was invented by an English Quaker from Lancashire named Thomas Rawlinson some time in the 1720s. He felt that the belted plaid was cumbrous and unwieldy, and his solution was to separate the skirt and convert it into a garment with pleats already sewn. From there its use spread in the shortest space amongst the Highlanders and it has been suggested there is evidence that the philibeg with unsewn pleats was worn from the 1690s. Organisations that sanction and grade the competitions in Highland dancing and piping all have rules governing acceptable attire for the competitors and these rules specify that kilts are to be worn. The Scottish kilt displays uniqueness of design, construction, and convention which differentiate it from other garments fitting the general description. It is a garment that is wrapped around the wearers body at the natural waist starting from one side, around the front and back. A kilt covers the body from the waist down to the centre of the knees, the overlapping layers in front are called aprons and are flat, the single layer of fabric around the sides and back is pleated. A kilt pin is fastened to the front apron on the free corner, underwear may or may not be worn, as the wearer prefers, although tradition has it that a true Scotsman should wear nothing under his kilt. The Scottish Tartans Authority, however, warns that in some circumstances the practice could be childish and unhygienic, the typical kilt as seen at modern Highland games events is made of twill woven worsted wool. The twill weave used for kilts is a 2–2 type, meaning that each weft thread passes over and under two warp threads at a time, the result is a distinctive diagonal-weave pattern in the fabric which is called the twill line. This kind of twill, when according to a given sett or written colour pattern is called tartan
Kilt
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One of the earliest depictions of the kilt is this German print showing Highlanders in about 1630
Kilt
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The modern Scottish kilt worn with formal evening wear (2009)
Kilt
–
Oliver tartan kilt (2006)
Kilt
–
Stitching on the fell of a kilt (Robertson Red Modern)
6.
Trews
–
Trews are mens clothing for the legs and lower abdomen, a traditional form of tartan trousers from Scottish apparel. Trews could be trimmed with leather, usually buckskin, especially on the leg to prevent wear from riding on horseback. Tartan trews shared the fate of other items of Highland dress, including proscription under the Dress Act of 1746 that banned men, the Dress Act lasted until 1782 when it was repealed under the reign of King George III. The word is triubhas in Scottish Gaelic, truis or trews are anglicised spellings meaning trousers. Traditional trews were form-fitting garments, similar to the hose of the Renaissance. They could be cut as Knee-breeches or full length and these trews were cut on the cross-grain, which allowed the fabric to stretch sufficiently to mould to the body, and placed the tartan sett on the diagonal. Traditional trews are actually long hose and these hose came all the way up to the waist and were attached to a linen cloth. They were fastened at the leg, below the knee. It is said in Scottish traditional folklore that these triubhas were actually the common garment of the 16th to 18th Centuries in the Highlands, colonel Sir John Sinclair of Ulbster, proved to his own satisfaction that the truis was an older dress than kilts. Until the establishment of the Royal Regiment of Scotland in 2006, military trews were usually worn by members of the lowland Scottish regiments as part of their No 1, mess, members of highland Scottish regiments were usually authorized to wear kilts with these orders of dress. However, all Highland regiments, in recent times, wore trews with less formal orders of barracks. They were also part of the uniform of the regiment known as The Highlanders formed in 1994. The new Royal Regiment of Scotland comprises all the former Scottish infantry line infantry regiments, historically trews were part of the Highland cultural tradition, not Lowland. From these early beginnings up to 1881, the famous Lowland regiments wore standard British uniform and they wore the complex belted plaid and latterly, to encourage recruits unfamiliar with such garb, they adopted the simpler kilt. However, trews were increasingly worn as off-duty dress and even campaign dress from the late 18th century, Highland regiments stationed in hot or unhealthy surroundings often took to wearing simple white cotton trousers or tartan trews. In 1822, following King George IVs successful first visit to Scotland, he ordered the resumption of Highland dress, the regiment chosen was the most senior of the de-kilted regiments, the 72nd. They adopted the Highland feather bonnet, the Highland version of the red coatee, the tartan chosen was a new form of red or Royal Stewart called Prince Charles Edward Stuart, reflecting the new romantic fashion for all things Jacobite. Today, the sideways kicking step of Scottish highland dancers performing the Seann Triubhas dance is said to symbolise the kicking off of the trews or trousers in favour of the kilt
Trews
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Sir John Sinclair by
Henry Raeburn, 1794–95. Sir John wears leather-trimmed trews of fabric cut on the straight grain.
Trews
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17th century Scottish mercenary (centre) wearing an early example of trews, or possibly tartan
hosen and
breeches.
Trews
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Highland dancer wearing trews
7.
Full plaid
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A full plaid is a long piece of tartan fabric, traditionally worn as part of a full highland dress uniform. It usually matches the tartan of the kilt, a full plaid is pleated the whole way, with half of its length sewn shut. Its length is almost twice the height of the wearer, a full plaid is typically only seen on members of pipe bands which elect to wear full dress uniforms, and occasionally as formal highland dress. The full plaid is wrapped around the wearers chest and under right arm, the plaid is twisted on the left shoulder with one loose end falling behind the wearers back and getting tucked into the waist belt. The leading edge of the loose end is pulled forward. Properly worn, the edge of the plaid should be level with top of left spat point at the rear of the leg, the lower edge of the plaid should be horizontal and parallel with the ground. The leading edge and front face of the plaid is secured by a brooch on the left shoulder, to the lay person, it would appear as a sort of long, tartan, shoulder-cape. The plaid first appeared as a feature of Highland military dress in the British Army with the establishment of six independent companies raised in 1725 and these subsequently became the Black Watch and the plaid continued as a conspicuous feature of the uniforms worn by Scottish infantry regiments. As a military garment the plaid served the purpose of a form of blanket. It also provided protection from rain for the musket and powder. In its original form the plaid comprised about twelve yards of double-width regimental or traditional tartan which had to be laid on the ground and rolled into. The plaid continued to be a feature of regimental full dress throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries, although by 1914 normally worn only by officers, sergeants
Full plaid
–
A bagpiper and member of the
Queen's Bands wearing a full plaid in traditional highland dress.
8.
Fly plaid
–
The modern fly plaid originated with the traditional Féileadh Mòr worn in the Scottish Highlands. The Great Plaid was a piece of cloth, which by the 16th century measured up to 8. The fly plaid harkens back to that garment and was introduced in the 18th century when fashion dictated a switch to the modern kilt, the fly plaid replaced that portion of the Great Kilt that was draped over the shoulder. It is today worn in two lengths, from about a metre square to 1.4 metres square. Regardless of the size, it is worn in the same tartan or colour as the modern kilt. It is typically worn with a jacket that has epaulets, but this is not mandatory, some fly plaids are sewn so that one corner is gathered prior to attaching the brooch. Others are not sewn and are pleated by hand before draping over the shoulder or inserting through an epaulet
Fly plaid
–
A man wearing a fly plaid
9.
Belted plaid
–
The belted plaid is a large blanket-like piece of fabric which is wrapped around the body with the material pleated or, more accurately, loosely gathered and secured at the waist by means of a belt. The belted plaid was an item of mens Highland dress from the late 16th century until the middle of the 18th century. It was also the precursor of the tailored kilt. The belted plaid has been and is referred to by a variety of different terms, including féileadh-mór, breacan an fhéilidh, and, very commonly. The term Great Kilt can be misleading since this garment was untailored, the garment was most definitely not known by this name during the years of its usage. Both the terms féileadh-mór and breacan an fhéilidh are Gaelic terms, the meaning roughly large wrap. The word plaide in Gaelic roughly means blanket, and that was the term for the garment in question. The belted plaid consisted of a piece of tartan fabric approximately 4 or 5 yards in length and it was typically worn as a kind of mantle or cloak cast about the shoulders. In the latter part of the 16th Century, some in the Highlands of Scotland began putting a belt around their waist on the outside of the plaid, the first clear reference to the belted plaid occurs in the year 1594. In that year, a group of Highlanders from the Western Isles went to Ireland to fight under Red Hugh ODonnell. Writing about them, Lughaidh noted how they could be distinguished from the Irish soldiers, They were recognized among the Irish soldiers by the distinction of their arms, for their exterior dress was mottled cloaks of many colours. Their belts were over their loins outside their cloaks, a surviving womans plaid dated 1726 exists. A surviving mens belted plaid from 1822 has belt loops sewn into it at each pattern repeat, such that it can be pleated with a drawstring belt. The belted plaid was used not only as a garment, but also as bedding at night and it was made from wool or a wool/linen combination and twill woven, often in a pattern of coloured stripes in one or both directions. This gave a pattern of stripes or checks, the latter has today become known as tartan, though originally the word tartan referred to the type of cloth used, and not the pattern of colours as the word almost exclusively signifies today. These tartan patterns were apparently based on a sense of fashion or the availability. The modern notion of clan tartans whereby each clan or name is associated with a particular design did not exist at that time, but instead dates back to the early 19th century. Thus, if one desires to wear the belted plaid at Highland Games, in fact, not all such garments were woven in strict accord with the modern definition of tartan pattern
Belted plaid
–
The Grant Piper by
Richard Waitt, 1714. The pattern of the piper's belted plaid differs from any modern Grant
tartan.
Belted plaid
–
Scottish archer wearing kilt and plaid, early 17th century.
Belted plaid
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Renaissance fair attendee wearing a belted plaid. It is evidently a warm day, as he is letting the top half hang loose at the back. While his outfit is not historically authentic, the plaid is similar.
Belted plaid
–
Modern belted plaid, front view
10.
Sporran
–
The sporran, a traditional part of male Scottish Highland dress, is a pouch that performs the same function as pockets on the pocketless kilt. Made of leather or fur, the ornamentation of the sporran is chosen to complement the formality of dress worn with it, the sporran is worn on a leather strap or chain, conventionally positioned in front of the groin of the wearer. Since the traditional kilt does not have pockets, the sporran serves as a wallet, the sporran hangs below the belt buckle, and much effort is made to match their style and design. The kilt belt buckle can be very ornate, and contain similar motifs to the sporran cantle, early sporrans would have been worn suspended from the belt on one or other of the hips, rather than hung from a separate strap in front of the wearer. Day sporrans are usually brown leather shovel pouches with simple adornment and this style is often made entirely of leather, with a leather flap, front, and three tassels or more. They are often embossed or hand-tooled with gorgeous Celtic, thistle, or other designs on the flap and body, Dress sporrans can be larger than the day variety, and are often highly ornate. Victorian examples were usually quite ostentatious, and much more elaborate than the leather pouch of the 17th or 18th centuries. They can have sterling or silver-plated cantles trimming the top of the pouch, the cantle may contain intricate filigree or etchings of Celtic knots. The top of the cantle may have a set stone, jewel, or emblems such as Saint Andrew and this style is regarded as the most formal type of sporran. It is an attachment for those who wear kilts in special ceremonies. Prince Charlie often wore this style of sporran to formal occasions and it normally contains fur fronts, a fur gusset, 3-6 decorative fur tassels with regular or cross chains, and a metal cantle at the top. The cantle arcs along the top of the pouch and conceals a clasp and it might be decorated with Celtic symbols such as the lion rampant, thistle, stag, or Saltire. Some elaborate cantles may include gemstones, such as garnets and this style commonly fastens at the rear with a stud on a small flap that connects the front and rear of the sporran. It allows the wearer to carry a range of items due to the size of this sporran. Semi-dress sporrans combine the shape and design as the day-wear sporran. They are often worn for semi-formal occasions with Argyll outfits, designs may decorate the leather flap of this style, or a silver clan symbol or other insignia may adorn on the flap. The body fur of this style is normally a hair hide rather than a loftier material reserved for full dress sporrans. The basic figure is included with a fur front, leather gusset
Sporran
–
A Horsehair sporran
Sporran
–
Bagpiper in Highland dress
11.
Sgian dubh
–
The sgian-dubh is a small, single-edged knife worn as part of traditional Scottish Highland dress along with the kilt. The sgian-dubh is normally worn on the side as the dominant hand. The name comes from the Gaelic sgian-dubh, compare also other Gaelic word-formations such as dubh-sgeir underwater skerry, dubh-fhacal riddle, dubh-cheist enigma. However, the term for the knife is a set-phrase containing a fossilized historical form. Various alternative spellings are found in English, including skene-dhu and skean-dhu, the plural is most commonly sgian-dubhs but sgians-dubh is also occasionally encountered. The proper Gaelic plural forms sginean-dubh or sgianan-dubh are only rarely encountered in English usage, the sgian-dubh may have evolved from the sgian-achlais, a dagger that could be concealed under the armpit. Used by the Scots of the 17th and 18th centuries, this knife was slightly larger than the average modern sgian-dubh and was carried in the sleeve or lining of the body of the jacket. Courtesy and etiquette would demand that when entering the home of a friend and it follows that the sgian-achlais would be removed from its hiding place and displayed in the stocking top held securely by the garters. The sgian-dubh also resembles the small skinning knife that is part of the set of hunting knives. These sets contain a knife with a 9 to 10 inches blade. These knives usually had antler handles, as do many early sgian-dubhs, the larger knife is likely the ancestor of the modern dirk. The bog oak, jet black in appearance, was a hard wood suitable for the purpose. The handles on the stag knives simulate horn which was traditionally used. Thus he carried on his person most of his worldly wealth, the black dagger was usually carried in a place of concealment very often under his armpit. This gives support to the view that black does not refer only to the colour of the handle, the sgian-dubh can be seen in portraits of kilted men of the mid-19th century. A similar sgian-dubh is in the collection of The National Museum of Antiquities of Scotland, the early blades varied in construction, some having a clipped or drop point. The spear-point tip has now become universal, the earliest known blades, some housed in the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh, are made from German or Scandinavian steel, which was highly prized by the Highlanders. Scalloped filework on the back of the blade is common on all Scottish knives, a short blade of 3 to 3.5 inches is typical
Sgian dubh
–
Stag Antler Sgian Dubh
Sgian dubh
–
A sgian-dubh being worn on the leg
Sgian dubh
–
Portrait by
Henry Raeburn of Alasdair Ranaldson MacDonell of Glengarry in 1812
Sgian dubh
–
Selection of sgian-dubhs
12.
Skirt
–
A skirt is the lower part of a dress or gown, covering the person from the waist downwards, or a separate outer garment serving this purpose. Most skirts are self-standing garments, but some skirt-looking panels may be part of another garment such as leggings, shorts, some fashion designers, such as Jean Paul Gaultier, have shown mens skirts. Modern skirts are made of light to mid-weight fabrics, such as denim, jersey, worsted. Skirts of thin or clingy fabrics are often worn with slips to make the material of the skirt drape better, a straw-woven skirt dating to 3900 BC was discovered in Armenia at the Areni-1 cave complex. Skirts have been worn by men and women from many cultures, such as the lungi, lehnga, kanga and sarong worn in South Asia and Southeast Asia, and the kilt worn in Scotland and Ireland. The earliest known culture to have females wear clothing resembling miniskirts were the Duan Qun Miao and this was in reference to the short miniskirts that barely cover the buttocks worn by women of the tribe, and which were probably shocking to observers in medieval and early modern times. In the Middle Ages, some upper-class women wore skirts over three metres in diameter at the bottom, at the other extreme, the miniskirts of the 1960s were minimal garments that may have barely covered the underwear when seated. Costume historians typically use the word petticoat to describe skirt-like garments of the 18th century or earlier, during the 19th century, the cut of womens dresses in western culture varied more widely than in any other century. Waistlines started just below the bust and gradually sank to the natural waist, skirts started fairly narrow and increased dramatically to the hoopskirt and crinoline-supported styles of the 1860s, then fullness was draped and drawn to the back by means of bustles. In the 1890s the rainy daisy skirt was introduced for walking or sportswear and it had a significantly shorter hemline measuring as much as six inches off the ground and would eventually influence the wider introduction of shorter hemlines in the early 20th century. Beginning around 1915, hemlines for daytime dresses left the floor for good, broomstick skirt, a light-weight ankle-length skirt with many crumpled pleats formed by compressing and twisting the garment while wet, such as around a broomstick. Bubble dress/skirt, a voluminous skirt whose hem is tucked back under to create a “bubble effect” at the bottom, Cargo skirt, a plain utilitarian skirt with belt loops and numerous large pockets, based on the military style of Cargo pants and popularised in the 1990s. Crinoline, a full skirt supported by hoops or multiple petticoats. Hobble skirt, a long and tight skirt with a hem narrow enough to impede the wearers stride Kilt-skirt. Though traditionally designed as womens wear, it is fashioned to mimic the appearance of a mans kilt. Leather skirt, a made of leather Lehenga, a long, pleated skirt, often embroidered, worn mostly as the bottom part of the Gagra choli in North India. Mini-crini, a version of the crinoline, designed by Vivienne Westwood in the mid 1980s. Poodle skirt, a circle or near-circle skirt with an appliqued poodle or other decoration Puffball skirt, popular in the mid-late 1980s when it was inspired by Westwoods mini-crini
Skirt
–
A skirt
Skirt
Skirt
–
Circle
Skirt
–
Full
13.
Sash
–
A sash is a large and usually colorful ribbon or band of material worn around the body, draping from one shoulder to the opposing hip, or else running around the waist. The sash around the waist may be worn in daily attire, ceremonial sashes are also found in a V-shaped format, draping from both shoulders to the stomach like a large necklace. In Latin America and some countries of Africa, a presidential sash indicates a presidents authority. Sashes traditionally form part of military attire. Most of the European Royal families wear sashes as a part of their royal regalia, some orders such as the Légion dhonneur include sashes as part of the seniormost grades insignia. Likewise Italian military officers wear light blue sashes over the shoulder on ceremonial occasions. Sashes are a feature of some regiments of the modern French Army for parade dress. In its traditional Franco-Algerian or zouave form the sash was four metres in length, in the historic French Army of Africa, sashes were worn around the waist in either blue for European or red for indigenous troops. At the time of the American Civil War silk sashes in crimson were authorized for officers, generals continued to wear buff silk sashes in full dress until 1917. In the Confederate Army of the Civil War period sash colour indicated the corps or status of the wearer. For example, gold for cavalry, burgundy for infantry, black for chaplains, red for sergeants, green or blue for medics, and grey or cream for general officers. With the exception of the West Point Band Drum Major, today the West Point cadet officer is the person in the US Army who wears a sword and sash. The modern British Army retains a scarlet sash for wear in certain orders of dress by sergeants and above serving in infantry regiments, over the right shoulder to the left hip. A similar crimson silk net sash is worn around the waist by officers of the Foot Guards in scarlet full dress, the same practice is followed in some Commonwealth armies. The present day armies of India and Pakistan both make use of waist-sashes for ceremonial wear. The colours vary according to regiment or branch and match those of the turbans where worn. Typically two or more colours are incorporated in the sash, in vertical stripes, one end hangs loose at the side and may have an ornamental fringe. The practice of wearing distinctive regimental sashes or cummerbunds goes back to the nineteenth century
Sash
–
A painting of
Captain Kidd with a red sash around his waist.
Sash
–
Prince Louis, Duke of Nemours wearing a red sash (Legion of Honour) as part of a ceremonial military uniform. Date 1840s.
Sash
–
The sashes of the
French Foreign Legion are blue.
Sash
–
Elaborately emboroidered sash from 1635-1642.
14.
Shawl
–
A shawl is a simple item of clothing, loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. It is usually a rectangular or square piece of cloth, that is folded to make a triangle. Shawl and pashmina name comes from Kashmir, but it originates from Hamedan Persia and he took someof this goat wool and made socks which he gave as a gift to king of Kashmir, Sultan Qutabdin. Afterwards Hamadani suggested to the king that they start a weaving industry in Kashmir using this wool. That is how pashmina shawls began, the skills and knowledge that he brought to Kashmir gave rise to an entire industry. Kashmir was a point through which the wealth, knowledge. Perhaps the most widely known woven textiles are the famed Kashmir shawls, the Kanikar, for instance, has intricately woven designs that are formalized imitations of Nature. The Chenar leaf, apple and cherry blossoms, the rose and tulip, the almond and pear, yet another type of Kashmir shawl is the Jamiavr, which is a brocaded woolen fabric sometimes in pure wool and sometimes with a little cotton added. Still another type of Kashmir shawl is the double-sided Dourukha, a shawl that is so done as to produce the same effect on both sides. The most expensive shawls, called Shahtoosh, are made from under-fleece of the Tibetan antelope or Chiru and these shawls are so fine that even a very tightly woven shawl can be easily pulled through a small finger ring. The naksha, a Persian device like the Jacquard loom invented centuries later, enabled Indian weavers to create floral patterns. The Kashmir shawl that evolved from this expertise in its heyday had greater fame than any other Indian textile, always a luxury commodity, the intricate, tapestry-woven, fine wool shawl had become a fashionable wrap for the ladies of the English and French elite by the 18th century. Supply fell short of demand and manufacturers pressed to produce more, as early as 1803, Kashmiri needlework production was established to increase and hasten output of these shawls, which had been imitated in England since 1784 and even in France. By 1870, the advent of the Jacquard loom in Europe destroyed the exclusivity of the original Kashmir shawl, even the characteristic Kashmiri motif, the mango-shape, began to be known simply as the paisley. The paisley motif is so ubiquitous to Indian fabrics that it is hard to realize that it is only about 250 years old and it evolved from 1600s floral and tree-of-life designs that were created in expensive, tapestry-woven Mughal textiles. The design in India originated from Persian motif called butta-jeghgha which represents a stylized cypress tree, early designs depicted single plants with large flowers and thin wavy stems, small leaves and roots. As the designs became denser over time, more flowers and leaves were compacted within the shape of the tree, by the late 18th century, the archetypal curved point at the top of an elliptical outline had evolved. In the late 18th century and 19th century, the became an important motif in a wide range of Indian textiles
Shawl
–
An
Azerbaijani bride with an engagement shawl.
Shawl
–
Brooklyn Museum - Doña Josefa de la Cotera y Calvo de la Puerta - Mexican - overall
Shawl
–
An
Ethiopian woman in a traditional shawl.
Shawl
–
The wearing of shawls in early 19th-century France.
15.
Brooch
–
A brooch /ˈbroʊtʃ/ is a decorative jewelry item designed to be attached to garments, often to hold them closed. It is usually made of metal, often silver or gold, brooches are frequently decorated with enamel or with gemstones and may be solely for ornament or sometimes serve a practical function as a fastening, perhaps for a cloak. The earliest known brooches are from the Bronze Age, as fashions in brooches changed rather quickly, they are important chronological indicators. Many sorts of European brooches found in archaeology are usually referred to by the Latin term fibula, the fibula is an ornamental clasp used by Romans, Greeks, Germanic peoples and also by Celts and migratory tribes in Europe from the Early Bronze Age. They may have replaced fibulae made of more perishable Neolithic materials, fibulae are useful type-objects, carefully catalogued local typologies, dating and distribution of fibulae can help date finds where neither numismatic nor ceramic materials provide a secure date. Fibulae were shaped somewhat like a safety pin and were used to hold clothing together. They came in varieties and held prominent significance for the identity of the wearer, indicating ethnicity. Elaborately designed fibulae were an important part of Late Antique dress, the same types of fibulae can often be found on either side of the Roman limites, both among Roman and barbarian populations. The cultural interplay of elite objects designed to show status can be quite complex and it is likely that this type originated among Celtic groups and came to be adopted as an exotic fashion by Roman aristocrats, becoming naturalized as an important Roman emblem, and then exported. From the eighteenth century through the Victorian era it was fashionable to incorporate hair, the practice began as an expression of mourning, then expanded to keepsakes of loved ones who were living. Human hair was encased within the brooch or braided and woven into a band to which clasps were affixed and it was not uncommon for miniature brooch portraits to incorporate ground human hair as pigment. Two sided swivel brooches would display a portrait on one side and a lock of hair on the other, hellenic Ministry of Culture, Katie Demakopoulou, Bronze Age Jewellry in Greece Brooch. Metropolitan jewelry, a catalog from The Metropolitan Museum of Art Libraries
Brooch
–
Detail of the Irish
pseudo-penannular Londesborough Brooch, British Museum
Brooch
–
Braganza Brooch, Hellenistic art, 250-200 BC,
British Museum
Brooch
–
Disk pin with woman giving birth, flanked by antelopes from
Luristan bronze.
Brooch
–
A hair brooch from the 19th century, in the collection of
The Children's Museum of Indianapolis
16.
Ghillies (dance)
–
Ghillies are specially designed shoes used for several types of dance. They are soft shoes, similar to ballet shoes and they are used by women in Irish dance, by men in Scottish country dance, and by men and women in Highland dance. Ghillies are also known by a variety of other names that include, light shoes, pomps, pumps. Ghillies are soft shoes, almost always made of a supple leather that forms to the foot and they use laces which criss-cross the top of the foot and are tied together similar to a sneaker. Most dancers use laces, although some ghillies do utilize elastic, some dancers will also wrap the laces/elastics around the soles of the feet. The soles usually stretch across the bottom of the shoe and are made from leather. Some ghillies, however, are split-soled, with a leather sole under the heel, ghillies are most commonly black, although other colours are manufactured. White ghillies can be dyed a variety of colours to be used for costumes specially choreographed dances such as blue, red, pink, Scottish ghillies are used by men and women for Highland dancing, and by men for Scottish country dancing. They are almost always black, although they often feature coloured stitching and they are generally worn very tight in order to get a good point. Irish ghillies are used by women in Irish dancing, whereas men wear reel shoes, unlike Scottish ghillies, the Irish version rarely feature coloured stitching, and they use loops in the leather, as opposed to eyelets, for the laces. Irish ghillies are available in a tan leather sole and a split sole. Like ballet shoes, ghillies are generally made from leather, and have similar soles, many dancers who start in Highland or Irish dancing will first use ballet shoes, as the cost is considerably lower. The most easily recognizable difference between ballet shoes and ghillies is that ghillies use laces to fasten them to the foot, also the laces are very long, and are wrapped around the ankle and foot before tied. Other differences are that ghillies do not have a string/elastic around the edge of the shoe to tighten them, and the soles of ghillies are not usually stitched on, but glued on. Ghillies, or ghillie brogues, are also a type of shoe with laces along the instep and no tongue, especially those used for Scottish country dancing. Although now worn for dancing and social events, ghillies originated as a shoe that would dry quickly due to the lack of a tongue, ghillies can also be used for other forms of dance, such as lyrical
Ghillies (dance)
–
Irish ghillies
Ghillies (dance)
–
Irish dance ghillies
17.
Turnshoes
–
A turnshoe is a type of shoe, made of leather, that was used during the Middle Ages. It was so named because it was put together inside out and this hides the main seam between the sole and vamp—prolonging the life of the shoe and inhibiting moisture leaking in through the seam. In the very beginning, turnshoes consisted of one piece of leather sewn on only one side. In the late early and the medieval ages, turnshoes mostly consisted of one sole. In the late Middle Ages, additional elements were added, like doubled soles, turnshoes were displaced by welted shoes in the beginning of the 16th century. Turnshoes were most often made in the home, shoe An example of turnshoe construction
Turnshoes
–
A modern reproduction of a
medieval turn-shoe
18.
Brogue shoe
–
The Brogue is a style of low-heeled shoe or boot traditionally characterised by multiple-piece, sturdy leather uppers with decorative perforations and serration along the pieces visible edges. Modern brogues trace their roots to a rudimentary shoe originating in Ireland that was constructed using untanned hide, Brogues were traditionally considered to be outdoor or country footwear not otherwise appropriate for casual or business occasions, but brogues are now considered appropriate in most contexts. Brogues are most commonly found in one of four toe cap styles, modern brogues trace their roots to a rudimentary shoe originating in Scotland and Ireland that was constructed using untanned hide. These are often said to stem from the original Irish brogues as well, however, contemporary descriptions of the original brogues do not mention such holes. The word brogue came into English in the sixteenth century. It comes from the Gaelic bróg, bròg shoe, from the Old Norse brók meaning leg covering, the Scots word brogue is also used to denote a bradawl or boring tool as well as the action of piercing with such a tool. The word brogue was first used to describe a form of outdoor, at that time the brogue was not considered to be appropriate for other occasions, social or business. Over time perceptions have changed and brogues are now considered appropriate in most contexts, Brogues continue to be most common as leather dress and casual shoes and boots, but can also be found in many other forms including canvas and leather sneakers and high-heeled womens shoes. Brogues are most commonly found in one of four toe-cap styles, full brogues are characterised by a pointed toe cap with extensions that run along both sides of the toe, terminating near the ball of the foot. Viewed from the top, this toe cap style is W shaped and looks similar to a bird with extended wings, the toe cap of a full brogue is both perforated and serrated along its edges and includes additional decorative perforations in the center of the toe cap. A shoe with a wingtip-style toecap but no perforations is known as an austerity brogue, spectator shoes are full brogue Oxfords constructed from two contrasting colours, typically having the toe and heel cap and sometimes the lace panels in a darker color than the main body of the shoe. Common color combinations include a white body with either black or tan caps. The ghillie style of full brogue has no tongue, to facilitate drying, despite the functional aspects of their design, ghillies brogues are most commonly seen as a component of traditional, formal Scottish dress and are worn primarily for social occasions. Semi-brogues are characterised by a toe cap with decorative perforations and serration along the caps edge and includes additional decorative perforations in the center of the toe cap. The half brogue was first designed and produced by John Lobb Ltd. as an Oxford in 1937 in an effort to offer his customers a shoe more stylish than a plain oxford, yet not as bold as a full brogue. Quarter brogues are more formal than semi brogues and full brogues, longwing brogues are Derby style shoes characterised by a pointed toe cap with wings that extend the full length of the shoe, meeting at a center seam at the heel. Longwing Derby brogues were most popular in the US during the 1970s, closure style is not a defining characteristic of the brogue and therefore brogues can be found in a variety of closure styles. Brogues are commonly available in laced Oxford, Derby or ghillie styles, lace-ups with brogue detailing are considered to be less smart than plain-toed lace-up mens styles
Brogue shoe
–
Men's full brogue Oxford dress shoes
Brogue shoe
–
Men's full brogue (or wingtip) Oxford dress shoe
Brogue shoe
–
Men's full brogue (or wingtip) Oxford spectator dress shoes
Brogue shoe
–
Men's full brogue ghillie Oxford shoes
19.
Shoe
–
A shoe is an item of footwear intended to protect and comfort the human foot while the wearer is doing various activities. Shoes are also used as an item of decoration and fashion, the design of shoes has varied enormously through time and from culture to culture, with appearance originally being tied to function. Additionally, fashion has often dictated many design elements, such as whether shoes have very high heels or flat ones, contemporary footwear in the 2010s varies widely in style, complexity and cost. Basic sandals may consist of only a sole and simple strap. High fashion shoes made by famous designers may be made of materials, use complex construction. Some shoes are designed for specific purposes, such as boots designed specifically for mountaineering or skiing, traditionally, shoes have been made from leather, wood or canvas, but in the 2010s, they are increasingly made from rubber, plastics, and other petrochemical-derived materials. Though the human foot is adapted to varied terrain and climate conditions, it is vulnerable to environmental hazards such as sharp rocks and hot ground. Some shoes are worn as safety equipment, such as steel-soled boots which are required on construction sites, the earliest known shoes are sandals dating from approximately 7000 or 8000 BC, found in the Fort Rock Cave in the US state of Oregon in 1938. Ötzi the Icemans shoes, dating to 3300 BC, featured brown bearskin bases, deerskin side panels, and a bark-string net, the Jotunheimen shoe was discovered in August 2006. Archaeologists estimate that the shoe was made between 1800 and 1100 BC, making it the oldest article of clothing discovered in Scandinavia. It is thought that shoes may have used long before this. By studying the bones of the toes, it was observed that their thickness decreased approximately 40,000 to 26,000 years ago. This led archaeologists to deduce that wearing shoes resulted in less bone growth and these earliest designs were very simple in design, often mere foot bags of leather to protect the feet from rocks, debris, and cold. They were more commonly found in colder climates, many early natives in North America wore a similar type of footwear, known as the moccasin. These are tight-fitting, soft-soled shoes typically made out of leather or bison hides, many moccasins were also decorated with various beads and other adornments. Moccasins were not designed to be waterproof, and in wet weather and warm summer months, as civilizations began to develop, thong sandals were worn. This practice dates back to pictures of them in ancient Egyptian murals from 4000 BC, One pair found in Europe was made of papyrus leaves and dated to be approximately 1,500 years old. They were also worn in Jerusalem during the first century of the Common Era, thong sandals were worn by many civilizations and made from a wide variety of materials
Shoe
–
A pair of formal shoes
Shoe
–
Museum display of shoes
Shoe
–
The
oldest known leather shoe, about 5500 years old, found in
Armenia.
Shoe
–
Esparto sandals from the
6th or
5th millennium BC found in
Spain.
20.
Clan Matheson
–
Clan Matheson is a Highland Scottish clan. The surname Matheson has more than one anglicization of its Scottish Gaelic derivation, the historian Black attributes Matheson to the Gaelic Mic Mhathghamhuin which means son of the bear, and the clan chiefs arms carry two bears as supporters. It has also suggested that MacMhathain means son of the heroes. The Scottish Lowland version of Matheson means simply son of Matthew, the Mathesons were granted lands by the Celtic Earls of Ross and settled around Loch Alsh, Lochcarron and Kintail. Following the Battle of Largs in 1263 the Western Isles came to be dominated by the Clan Donald whose chiefs were the Lords of the Isles and the Clan Matheson sided with them. In 1411 the Clan Matheson fought for Domhnall of Islay, Lord of the Isles at the Battle of Harlaw where the clan chief, the Clan Matheson was then said to have numbered over two thousand warriors. Macmaken supported Alexander of Islay, Earl of Ross who was suspected of treason by James I of Scotland, as a result, the earl was seized by the king at Inverness in 1427. Matheson was also arrested by the king, and was executed, as the Lords of the Isles lost power so did the Mathesons. The Mathesons then found themselves involved in the feuding between the Clan MacDonald and the Clan Mackenzie, iain Dubh Matheson was killed defending the Mackenzie stronghold Eilean Donan Castle, of which he had become constable of after marrying the widow of Sir Dugald Mackenzie. Dougal MacRuadhri Matheson sat in Parliament and was Prior of Beauly between 1498 and 1514, all genealogies of the clan agree that the next chief was the undisputed Murdoch Buidhe who died in about 1602. Murdoch had two sons, Roderick and Dugald, duglad was styled of Balmacara and he rose to become chamberlain of Lochalsh in 1631. Dugald was the ancestor of John Matheson of Attadale whose grandson, another branch of the Clan Matheson who had settled on the north side of Loch Shin had been ballies to the Earls of Sutherland in the late 15th century. Donald Matheson of Shin fought against the Jacobites during the Jacobite rising of 1715, meanwhile, the chiefship of the clan had descended through a line who were descended from Dugald of Balmacaras elder brother, Roderick Matherson. They acquired lands on the Black Isle that were known as Bennetsfield, unlike his cousins in Sutherland, John Matheson, second of Bennetsfield was a Jacobite who fought at the Battle of Culloden in 1746. Fort Matheson, now a ruin, was the seat of the Chief of the Clan Matheson. Lews Castle near Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis was built by the family of Sir James Matheson who bought the property in 1846 and was originally the site Seaforth Lodge, ardross Castle was originally held by the Clan Munro but later passed to the Mathesons. Bennetsfield near Munlochy in Easter Ross is the site of a castle or old house and it was held by the Mathesons from the end of the seventeenth century and this branch of the clan became the chiefs. John Matheson, 2nd of Benetsfield fought for the Jacobites at the Battle of Culloden in 1746, Shiness near Lairg in Sutherland is the site of a castle or old house
Clan Matheson
–
Clan Matheson
21.
Ghillies
–
Ghillies are specially designed shoes used for several types of dance. They are soft shoes, similar to ballet shoes and they are used by women in Irish dance, by men in Scottish country dance, and by men and women in Highland dance. Ghillies are also known by a variety of other names that include, light shoes, pomps, pumps. Ghillies are soft shoes, almost always made of a supple leather that forms to the foot and they use laces which criss-cross the top of the foot and are tied together similar to a sneaker. Most dancers use laces, although some ghillies do utilize elastic, some dancers will also wrap the laces/elastics around the soles of the feet. The soles usually stretch across the bottom of the shoe and are made from leather. Some ghillies, however, are split-soled, with a leather sole under the heel, ghillies are most commonly black, although other colours are manufactured. White ghillies can be dyed a variety of colours to be used for costumes specially choreographed dances such as blue, red, pink, Scottish ghillies are used by men and women for Highland dancing, and by men for Scottish country dancing. They are almost always black, although they often feature coloured stitching and they are generally worn very tight in order to get a good point. Irish ghillies are used by women in Irish dancing, whereas men wear reel shoes, unlike Scottish ghillies, the Irish version rarely feature coloured stitching, and they use loops in the leather, as opposed to eyelets, for the laces. Irish ghillies are available in a tan leather sole and a split sole. Like ballet shoes, ghillies are generally made from leather, and have similar soles, many dancers who start in Highland or Irish dancing will first use ballet shoes, as the cost is considerably lower. The most easily recognizable difference between ballet shoes and ghillies is that ghillies use laces to fasten them to the foot, also the laces are very long, and are wrapped around the ankle and foot before tied. Other differences are that ghillies do not have a string/elastic around the edge of the shoe to tighten them, and the soles of ghillies are not usually stitched on, but glued on. Ghillies, or ghillie brogues, are also a type of shoe with laces along the instep and no tongue, especially those used for Scottish country dancing. Although now worn for dancing and social events, ghillies originated as a shoe that would dry quickly due to the lack of a tongue, ghillies can also be used for other forms of dance, such as lyrical
Ghillies
–
Irish ghillies
Ghillies
–
Irish dance ghillies
22.
Clan MacNeacail
–
Clan MacNeacail, sometimes known as Clan MacNicol, is a Scottish clan long associated with the Isle of Skye. Traditions states that, early in its history, the clan held the Isle of Lewis, further traditions, however, state that the clan lost its lands to the MacLeods of Lewis through the marriage of a MacNeacail heiress. The earliest member of the clan on record is one 14th century John mak Nakyl, the next record of the clan appears hundreds of years later, in the 16th century, when the clan was seated on Skye. In the 17th century, members of the clan began to Anglicise their surname from the Scottish Gaelic MacNeacail to various forms, such as Nicolson. Today the English variants of the Gaelic surname are borne by members of the clan as well as members of unrelated Scottish families, the heartland of the clan has been for centuries in Trotternish, on Skye. The earliest record of a MacNeacail in Trotternish occurs in 1507, there are several pedigrees which document the earliest line of the clan. One such pedigree is contained within the 15th century MS1467 and this pedigree concerns a certain Ewen who must have flourished in the 15th century, he is presented as the son of John, the son of Nicol. Although further successive generations are given, the names following Nicol tend to be garbled, Nicol appears to have flourished at the turn of the 14th century, and was likely the eponymous ancestor of the clan. The garbled names further past Nicol tend to be a mixture of Gaelic and Norse names, during the High Middle Ages, Skye formed a part of the Norse-Gaelic Kingdom of the Isles, before being incorporated into the Kingdom of Scotland through the Treaty of Perth in 1266. The MacNeacails were also one of the families whom the Irish genealogist John OHart purported to trace back to Adam, according to this genealogy, some of the ancestors of Clan MacNicol include Breoghan, the Celtic king of Spain, and Lugaid Mac Con, High King of Ireland. The first MacNeacail on record is likely a 14th-century John mak Nakyl or Macnakild and this man may well be the John son of Nicol who appears in the MS1467. John is recorded in three English documents which associate him with the leading West Highland supporters of Edward I of England during the Scottish Wars of Independence. One document records that, in 1306 letters were delivered from Edward to his supporters, William I, Earl of Ross, Lachlan MacRuairi, his brother Ruairi, and John mak Nakyl. The three records suggest that John was a prominent West Highland or Hebridean leader, much like the men the records associate him with. It is also possible that John may be identical to the unnamed MacNicol who appears in John Barbours late 14th century poem The Brus, the part of the poem which mentions this MacNicol recounts how he took part in Edward Bruces siege of Carrickfergus Castle in 1316. As the poem associated this MacNicol with ships, it may be evidence that John was a leading Hebridean. According to various traditions, the MacNeacails once had possession of Lewis before losing their lands to the MacLeods through the marriage of a MacNeacail heiress, in the 17th century, John Morison of Bragar stated as much when he wrote. Macknaicle whose onlie daughter Torquill the first of name did violentlie espouse
Clan MacNeacail
–
Crest: A hawk's head erased Gules.
23.
R. R. McIan
–
Robert Ronald McIan, also Robert Ranald McIan, was an actor and painter of Scottish descent. He is best known for romanticised depictions of Scottish clansmen, their battles and his wife, Fanny McIan, was a painter and early teacher of art to women. McIan was born in Scotland, in 1803 and he became an actor with the joint company of the Theatre Royals in Bristol and Bath before making his way to London. In 1838 he played at the Covent Garden Theatre and at Drury Lane in the following year and he gained a reputation for playing Highlanders on the stage, at a time when the novels of Sir Walter Scott had revived interest in Highland culture. Its not clear when he gave up the stage to himself to painting. He played the jester in the Eglinton Tournament of 1839 and the 1885 DNB says he retired in that year, a letter from Charles Dickens mentions seeing McIan perform on 23 June 1841, not long before McIans wife started a steady job as a teacher. WP Frith described McIan as a Highlander and fierce Jacobite, Henry Vizetelly wrote that he was voted an intolerable bore. McIan eloped with and married Frances Whitaker, daughter of a Bath cabinet maker, a friend described them as The painter and his painter-wife – two who went hand in hand, and heart with heart, together through the world. Mrs McIan was a painter in her own right, who exhibited at the Royal Academy. She too favoured historical subjects from the Highlands, such as Highlander defending his Family at the Massacre of Glencoe, the Highlander in question would have been a MacDonald of Glencoe, also known as Clan McIan. From 1842 until Roberts death she was the first Superindent of the Female School of Design and they moved to 9 Great Coram Street in 1843 and 36 Charlotte Street in 1849. McIan learnt to paint whilst he was an actor, and submitted his first landscape to the Royal Academy in 1836 and he exhibited in the Suffolk Street Gallery in 1835 and 1837 whilst acting at the newly rebuilt English Opera House. His 1838 portrait of novelist Anna Maria Hall was praised by Camilla Toulmin and he is perhaps best known for his illustrations in The Clans of The Scottish Highlands, published in 1845 on the centenary of the Jacobite Rising with text by James Logan. It proved so popular that it was reissued in 1857, after his death and his depictions of clansmen fanned the romantic revival of interest in Gaeldom that was led by Queen Victoria, to whom the book was dedicated. McIans early paintings concentrated on scenes from life in the Highlands, such as illicit whisky stills. These culminated in the 1848 sequel to the Clans book, entitled Gaelic Gatherings, Or The Highlanders at Home, on the Heath, the River, in later life his works increasingly took on overtly nationalistic subjects, celebrating the exploits of Highland soldiers against the English and overseas. Paintings of the 79th Cameron Highlanders were commissioned by Colonel Lauderdale Maule to celebrate the end of his colonelcy of the regiment in December 1852. An Incident in the Revolutionary War of America showed the 71st Fraser Highlanders heroic defence at the Battle of Stono Ferry and was exhibited at the Royal Scottish Academy in 1854
R. R. McIan
–
A
MacDonald of Glencoe (McIan), from The Clans of the Scottish Highlands (1845).
R. R. McIan
–
RR McIan
R. R. McIan
–
A member of
Clan MacNeacail, from The Clans of the Scottish Highlands (1845).
24.
John Taylor (poet)
–
John Taylor was an English poet who dubbed himself The Water Poet. He was born in Gloucester,24 August 1578, after his waterman apprenticeship he served in Essexs fleet, and was present at Flores in 1597 and at the siege of Cadiz. He details the uprisings in the pamphlets Iohn Taylors Manifestation. and in John Taylors Last Voyage and Adventure of 1641. Taylor discusses the watermens disputes with the companies in The True Cause of the Watermens Suit Concerning Players. An Arrant Thief says, All sorts of men, work all the means they can, To make a Thief of every waterman, And as it were in one consent they join, To trot by land i th dirt, and save their coin. When Queen Elizabeth came to the crown, A coach in England then was known, Then twas as rare to see one. Taylor was also the first poet to mention the deaths of William Shakespeare and Francis Beaumont in print, in his 1620 poem, both had died four years earlier. In paper, many a poet now survives Or else their lines had perishd with their lives. Old Chaucer, Gower, and Sir Thomas More, Sir Philip Sidney, who the laurel wore, Spenser, sylvester, Beaumont, Sir John Harrington, Forgetfulness their works would over run But that in paper they immortally Do live in spite of death, and cannot die. He was a prolific, if rough-hewn writer, with one hundred. Many were gathered into the compilation All the Workes of John Taylor the Water Poet, not included in the Folio edition of 1630. Although his work was not sophisticated, he was an observer of people and styles in the seventeenth century. An example is his 1621 work Taylors Motto, which included a list of then-current card games, from his journey to Scotland in 1618, on which he took no money, Taylor published his Pennyless Pilgrimage. Taylor is one of the few credited early authors of a palindrome, in 1614, he wrote Lewd did I live and he wrote a poem about Thomas Parr, a man who supposedly lived to the age of 152. He was also the author of a language called Barmoodan. Many of Taylors works were published by subscription, i. e. he would propose a book, ask for contributors, and write it when he had enough subscribers to undertake the printing costs. Those who defaulted on the subscription were chided the following year in a brochure entitled A Kicksey Winsey, or, A Lerry Come-Twang. By wondrous accident perchance one may Grope out a needle in a load of hay, And though a white crow be exceedingly rare, A blind man may, by fortune, catch a hare
John Taylor (poet)
–
John Taylor portrait engraved by
Thomas Cockson, from the frontispiece of Taylor's 1630 poetry anthology.
John Taylor (poet)
–
A Swarm of Sectaries, and Schismatiques, 1641
25.
Laird
–
Laird is a generic name for the owner of a large, long-named Scottish estate, roughly equivalent to an esquire in England, yet ranking above the same in Scotland. In the Scottish order of precedence, a laird ranks below a baron and this rank is only held by those lairds holding official recognition in a territorial designation by the Lord Lyon King of Arms. They are usually styled of, and are entitled to place The Much Honoured before their name. g. THE HOLDER IS THE LORD OF THE MANOR/LAIRD OF and it is a description rather than a title, and is not appropriate for the owner of a normal residential property, far less the owner of a small souvenir plot of land. It goes without saying that the term ‘laird’ is not synonymous with that of ‘lord’ or ‘lady’, ownership of a souvenir plot of land is not sufficient to bring a person otherwise ineligible within the jurisdiction of the Lord Lyon for the purpose of seeking a Grant of Arms. Historically, the bonnet laird was applied to rural, petty landowners. Bonnet lairds filled a position in society below lairds and above husbandmen, the word laird is known to have been used from the 15th century, and is a shortened form of laverd, derived from the Old English word hlafweard meaning warden of loaves. In the 15th and 16th centuries, the designation was used for land owners holding directly of the Crown, lairds reigned over their estates like princes, their castles forming a small court. Originally in the 16th and 17th centuries, the designation was applied to the chief of a highland clan. The laird may possess certain local or feudal rights, a certain level of landownership was a necessary qualification. A laird is said to hold a lairdship, a woman who holds a lairdship in her own right has been styled with the honorific Lady. Although laird is sometimes translated as lord and historically signifies the same, the designation is a corporeal hereditament, i. e. the designation cannot be held in gross, and cannot be bought and sold without selling the physical land. A laird possessing a Coat of Arms registered in the Public Register of All Arms, several websites, and internet vendors on websites like Ebay, sell Scottish lairdships along with small plots of land. They see their contract purporting to sell a plot of Scottish souvenir land as bestowing them the right to the title Laird. This is despite the fact that the buyer does not acquire ownership of the plot because registration of the plot is prohibited by Land Registration Act 2012, s 22. While tolerating public access, he feels threatened by new legislation, traditionally, a laird is formally styled in the manner evident on the 1730 tombstone in a Scottish churchyard. It reads, The Much Honoured Laird of, the section titled Scottish Feudal Baronies in Debretts states that the use of the prefix The Much Hon. is correct, but that most lairds prefer the unadorned name and territorial designation. By the early 20th century, the wife came to adopt her husbands full surname
Laird
–
Richard Lauder, Laird of
Haltoun
Laird
–
Carving believed to depict a 16th-century Scottish laird.
26.
Braemar
–
Braemar /breɪˈmɑːr/ is a village in Aberdeenshire, Scotland, around 58 miles west of Aberdeen in the Highlands. It is the closest significantly-sized settlement to the course of the River Dee sitting at an altitude of 339 metres. The Gaelic Bràigh Mhàrr properly refers to the area of upper Marr, i. e. the area of Marr to the west of Aboyne, the village itself being Castleton of Braemar. The village used to be known as Cinn Drochaid, Baile a Chaisteil referred to only the part of the village on the east bank of the river, the part on the west bank being known as Ach an Droighinn. Braemar is approached from the South on the A93 from Glen Clunie, Braemar can be approached on foot from the West through Glen Tilt, Glen Feshie, Glen Dee, and Glen Derry. Braemar is within an hour drive of Aberdeen, Dundee. The village is overlooked by Carn na Drochaide, by Creag Choinneach, by Carn na Sgliat, Braemar is the third coldest low lying place in the UK, after the villages of Dalwhinnie and Leadhills, with an annual average temperature of 6.8 °C. Braemar has twice entered the UK Weather Records with the lowest ever UK temperature of -27.2 °C, on 11 February 1895, Braemar has an average of 102 days of air frost and 153 days with 1 mm or more of rainfall. Snowfall can be heavy in winter and early spring, and often accumulates to depths of 30 cm or more, on 30 September 2015, Braemar had one of the largest recorded diurnal ranges of temperature in the UK. It also recorded the warmest and coldest temperatures for the UK for September 2015 on that day, the maximum temperature was 24.0 °C and the minimum was -1.3 °C. The very next day it was again the coldest and warmest place in the UK, the minimum temperature was -2.0 °C and the maximum was a new record for Braemar - it was 22.7 °C. Braemar recorded -5.0 °C later that month, meaning that for the month in a row. Also in 2015, temperatures reached a new record for November for Braemar of 17.7 °C set on the 2nd, historically the village is situated in the upper end of the historical Earldom of Mar or literally the Braes o Mar. In Scottish Gaelic, Bràigh Mhàrr referred to the general locality rather than the village itself, the use of Braemar to specifically refer to the village dates to around 1870. The names Auchendryne and Castleton are clearly marked on the current Ordnance Survey maps below the larger and bolder Braemar, the name Kindrochit is the source of the name Castleton being Bail Chasteil. On 6 September 1715, John Erskine, Earl of Mar raised the Jacobite standard at Braemar, instigating the 1715 rising against the Hanoverian Succession. In 1795, a Roman Catholic chapel was built on the high-ground to the west of Auchendryne giving the name to Chapel Brae which, according to Wyness, was being used as a school. Into the 20th century, the village was almost completely owned and divided by the estates of Mar, Auchendryne and Invercauld on one side
Braemar
–
Ruins of Kindrochit Castle
Braemar
–
Pole aerial photo of the ruins of The Royal Castle of Kindrochit in Mar.
Braemar
27.
Hose (clothing)
–
Hose are any of various styles of mens clothing for the legs and lower body, worn from the Middle Ages through the 17th century, when the term fell out of use in favor of breeches and stockings. The old plural form of hose was hosen, early wool hose were fitted to the leg, and 15th century hose were often made particolored or mi-parti, having each leg a different colour, or even one leg made of two colors. These early hose were footed, in the manner of modern tights, when very short doublets were in fashion, codpieces were added to cover the front opening. By the 16th century, hose had separated into two garments, upper hose or breeches and nether hose or stockings, from the mid-16th to early 17th centuries, a variety of styles of hose were in fashion. Popular styles included, Trunk hose or round hose, short padded hose, very short trunk hose were worn over cannions, fitted hose that ended above the knee. Slops or galligaskins, loose hose reaching just below the knee, Trunk hose and slops could be paned or pansied, with strips of fabric over a full inner layer or lining. Pansied slop is a round hose characterized by the addition of a layer of panes and these are commonly referred to as pumpkin pants. Pluderhosen, a Northern European form of pansied slops with a full inner layer pulled out between the panes and hanging below the knee. Originating in Germany, Pluderhosen soon spread to central and Eastern Europe, venetians, semi-fitted hose reaching just below the knee. 1500–1550 in fashion 1550–1600 in fashion Notes Bibliography Arnold, Janet, Patterns of Fashion, hose in the Middle Ages and Renaissance 13th–16th century hose, from illustrations and museums
Hose (clothing)
–
Florentine particolored hose, c. 1470
Hose (clothing)
–
Servant wearing pluderhosen, 1565
Hose (clothing)
–
Hose or chausses worn with
braies and tied to a belt, 1440
Hose (clothing)
–
Charles IX of France wearing padded hose, 1566
28.
Jerkin (garment)
–
A jerkin is a mans short close-fitting jacket, made usually of light-coloured leather, and often without sleeves, worn over the doublet in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. The term is applied to a similar sleeveless garment worn by the British Army in the 20th century. The stock phrase buff jerkin refers to an oiled oxhide jerkin, the origin of the word is unknown. The Dutch word jurk, a frock, often taken as the source, is modern. Leather jerkins of the 16th century were often slashed and punched, jerkins were worn closed at the neck and hanging open over the peascod-bellied fashion of doublet. At the turn of the 17th century, the fashion was to wear the jerkin buttoned at the waist, by the mid-17th century, jerkins were high-waisted and long-skirted like doublets of the period. During the First World War, the British army issued brown leather jerkins to the troops as a measure to protect against the cold and these garments generally had four buttons and were lined with khaki wool. They were practical, hardwearing and extremely appreciated by officers and other ranks alike, by the time of the Second World War, the leather jerkins were still on issue to all the Commonwealth forces and were universally popular. Jerkins made in Canada were dark brown with black wool linings and it was issued to assault troops for the Normandy landings and was used widely by commando personnel in 1944–45. During the post war period, a less distinctive PVC version was introduced to the forces. WD surplus leather jerkins flooded the UK during the 1950s and 1960s and were a common sight on manual workmen across the country, wartime vintage leather jerkins are now collectors items, and at least one UK firm has produced a facsimile. The Belgian Army also produced vinyl jerkins in the postwar era, 1550–1600 in fashion 1600–1650 in fashion This article incorporates text from a publication now in the public domain, Chisholm, Hugh, ed. article name needed. Janet Arnold, Patterns of Fashion, the cut and construction of clothes for men and women 1560–1620, Macmillan 1985
Jerkin (garment)
–
Robert Dudley in a slashed, probably leather, jerkin of the 1560s
Jerkin (garment)
–
Dutch musician wears a jerkin with ribbon points as fasteners, 1632
Jerkin (garment)
–
Guardsman's buff jerkin worn with a sash, c. 1639, from a painting by
Frans Hals
Jerkin (garment)
–
Jerkin work by a British soldier at the
Battle of the Somme
29.
Garter (stockings)
–
Garters are articles of clothing, narrow bands of fabric fastened about the leg, used to keep up stockings, and sometimes socks. In the eighteenth to twentieth centuries, they were tied just below the knee, the advent of elastic has made them less necessary from this functional standpoint, although they are still often worn for fashion. Garters have been worn by men and women, depending on fashion trends. Garters were popular in the 1930s and 1940s, and were a convenient way for ladies to carry small valuables, in Elizabethan fashions, men wore garters with their hose, and colorful garters were an object of display. In Shakespeares Twelfth Night, cross braced garters are an object of some derision, in male fashion, a type of garter for holding up socks has continued as a part of male dress up to the present, although its use may be considered somewhat stodgy. There is a Western wedding tradition for a bride to wear a garter to her wedding and this garter is not normally used to support stockings. This practice is interpreted as symbolic of deflowering, though some sources attribute its origin to a superstition that taking an article of the brides clothing will bring good luck. In the Middle Ages, the groomsmen would rush at the new bride to take her garters as a prize, today, the practice of removing the brides garter is traditionally reserved to the groom, who will then toss the garter to the unmarried male guests. This is performed after the tossing of the bouquet, in which the bride tosses her bouquet over her shoulder to be caught by the female guests. According to superstition, the lady who catches the bouquet and the man who catches the garter will be the man and woman among those in attendance to be married. The ceremony often continues with the man who catches the garter obliged to place it on the leg of the lady who caught the bouquet, traditionally, the pair are obliged to share the next dance. Prom garters were common in the 1960s & 70s, and often conferred on the date as a souvenir, if the date received the garter, it was typically hung from his rear-view mirror. The prom garter may be throughout the evening and is sometimes given to the young womans date as a souvenir. A young woman may choose to keep the garter rather than give it away. In cases like this where the garter is given early in the evening, the suspenders are typically clipped to the stockings with metal clips into which a rubber disc is inserted through the stocking material effectively locking the stocking in place. These are normally attached to a length of elastic allowing for adjustment and these clips, also known as suspender slings, are best attached to stockings with a simple welt that do not have lace, or hold-ups with a silicon rubber lining. Suspender belts for men do exist, usually worn when there is a need to wear support hosiery for medical reasons, suspender belts are usually worn at the waist or just slightly below. If worn too low on the hips, there is a chance of the sliding down
Garter (stockings)
–
A wedding garter
Garter (stockings)
–
Hip flask tucked into a garter during
Prohibition
Garter (stockings)
–
Bride putting on a garter
Garter (stockings)
–
A woman with her suspenders showing
30.
Straw
–
Straw is an agricultural by-product, the dry stalks of cereal plants, after the grain and chaff have been removed. Straw makes up half of the yield of cereal crops such as barley, oats, rice, rye. It has many uses, including fuel, livestock bedding and fodder and it is usually gathered and stored in a straw bale, which is a bundle of straw tightly bound with twine or wire. Bales may be square, rectangular, or round, depending on the type of baler used. Current and historic uses of straw include, Animal feed Straw may be fed as part of the component of the diet to cattle or horses that are on a near maintenance level of energy requirement. It has a low energy and nutrient content. The heat generated when microorganisms in a herbivores gut digest straw can be useful in maintaining body temperature in cold climates, due to the risk of impaction and its poor nutrient profile, it should always be restricted to part of the diet. It may be fed as it is, or chopped into short lengths, basketry Bee skeps and linen baskets are made from coiled and bound together continuous lengths of straw. The technique is known as lip work, bedding, humans or livestock The straw-filled mattress, also known as a palliasse, is still used in many parts of the world. It is commonly used as bedding for ruminants and horses and it may be used as bedding and food for small animals, but this often leads to injuries to mouth, nose and eyes as straw is quite sharp. Biofuels The use of straw as an energy source is increasing rapidly, especially for biobutanol. Straw or hay briquettes are a substitute to coal. Biogas Straw, processed first as briquettes, has been fed into a plant in Aarhus University, Denmark. Biomass The use of straw in large-scale biomass power plants is becoming mainstream in the EU, the straw is either used directly in the form of bales, or densified into pellets which allows for the feedstock to be transported over longer distances. Finally, torrefaction of straw with pelletisation is gaining attention, because it increases the density of the resource. This processing step also makes storage easier, because torrefied straw pellets are hydrophobic. Torrefied straw in the form of pellets can be directly co-fired with coal or natural gas at high rates and make use of the processing infrastructures at existing coal. Because the torrefied straw pellets have superior structural, chemical and combustion properties to coal, they can replace all coal, first generation pellets are limited to a co-firing rate of 15% in modern IGCC plants
Straw
–
Large round bales
Straw
–
Bundles of rice straw
Straw
–
Pile of "small square" straw bales, sheltered under a
tarpaulin
Straw
–
Straw or hay briquettes are a biofuel substitute to coal
31.
Kerchief
–
A kerchief also known as a bandana or bandanna, is a triangular or square piece of cloth tied around the head or around the neck for protective or decorative purposes. The popularity of head kerchiefs may vary by culture or religion, as among Orthodox Jewish and Christian, Amish and it is also worn as headdresses by Malay men in traditional occasions such as weddings by the grooms and the pesilat. Their headdresses are better known as tengkolok, a handkerchief or hanky primarily refers to a napkin made of cloth, used to dab away perspiration, clear the nostrils, or, in Victorian times, as a means of flirtation. A woman could intentionally drop a dainty square of lacy or embroidered fabric to give a man a chance to pick it up as an excuse to speak to her while returning it. Handkerchiefs were sometimes scented to be used like a nosegay or tussy-mussy, the popularity of the bandana and kerchief was at it highest point in the 1970s, 80s and 90s depending on ones location. After that its popularity started waning in the west, but some eastern cultures maintained its usage for a while and it is largely seen as gender neutral and can be worn by both men and women. Its usage, when wrapped up, was replaced by the headband. A bandana is a type of large, usually colorful, kerchief, bandanas are frequently printed in a paisley pattern and are most often used to hold hair back, either as a fashionable head accessory, or for practical purposes. Originated in India as bright coloured handkerchiefs of silk and cotton with spots in white on coloured grounds, chiefly red, the silk styles were made of the finest quality yarns, and were very popular. Bandana prints for clothing were first produced in Glasgow from cotton yarns, the term, at present, generally means a fabric in printed styles, whether silk, silk and cotton, or all cotton. Colors can be worn as a means of communication or identification, as with the prominent California criminal gangs, the Bloods, the Crips, the 18th Street gang, in gang subcultures, the bandana could be worn in a pocket or around the head. In the late 1960s/early 1970s, the Bloods and the Crips wore red, Handkerchief Handkerchief code Other neckwear Ascot tie Cravat Fichu Neckerchief Scarf Other headwear Do-rag Hachimaki Headband Headscarf/Hijab Tengkolok How to tie a bandanna How to wear a bandanna
Kerchief
–
A woman wearing a bandana on her head
Kerchief
Kerchief
–
Red and blue bandanas in traditional
paisley patterns
Kerchief
–
Bandanas
32.
Great Highland Bagpipes
–
The Great Highland bagpipe is a type of bagpipe native to Scotland. It has acquired widespread recognition through its usage in the British military, the bagpipe is first attested in Scotland around 1400, having previously appeared in European artwork in Spain in the 13th century. Though widely famous for its role in military and civilian pipe bands, though popular belief sets varying dates for the introduction of bagpipes to Scotland, concrete evidence is limited until approximately the 15th century. One Clan still owns a remnant of a set of bagpipes said to have carried at the Battle of Bannockburn in 1314. There are many ancient legends and stories about bagpipes which were passed down through minstrels and oral tradition, however, textual evidence for Scottish bagpipes is more definite in 1396, when records of the Battle of the North Inch of Perth reference warpipes being carried into battle. However, the loss of the chiefs power and patronage. It was soon realised that Highlanders made excellent troops and a number of regiments were raised from the Highlands over the half of the eighteenth century. The custom was revived by the 51st Highland Division for their assault on the lines at the start of the Second Battle of El Alamein on 23 October 1943. Each attacking company was led by a piper, playing tunes that would allow units to recognise which Highland regiment they belonged to. Although the attack was successful, losses among the pipers were high, the Great Highland bagpipe is classified as a woodwind instrument, like the bassoon, oboe, and clarinet. Although it is classified as a double-reed instrument, the reeds are all closed inside the wooden stocks. The Great Highland bagpipe actually has four reeds, the chanter reed, a modern set has a bag, a chanter, a blowpipe, two tenor drones, and one bass drone. The scale of the chanter is in Mixolydian mode, which has a flattened seventh scale degree and it has a range from one whole tone lower than the tonic to one octave above it. The drones are tuned to this note, called A. So the scale sounds actually as A♭, B♭, C, D, E♭, F, G, A♭, B♭, historically it was indeed flatter, as evidenced by recordings, and extant instruments. Highland bagpipe music is written in the key of D major, due to the lack of chromatic notes, to change key is also to change modes, tunes are in A Mixolydian, D major, B minor, or occasionally E Dorian. In concert pitch it will be B♭ Mixolydian, E♭ major, traditionally, certain notes were sometimes tuned slightly off from just intonation. For example, on some old chanters the D and high G would be somewhat sharp, today, however, the notes of the chanter are usually tuned in just intonation to the Mixolydian scale
Great Highland Bagpipes
–
A pipe major of the
Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders (date unknown)
Great Highland Bagpipes
–
Bagpiper carved around 1600 A.D.
Great Highland Bagpipes
–
A selection of bagpipe reeds of various design, chanter reeds on the left, drone reeds on the right
Great Highland Bagpipes
–
Angel playing bapipes in the
Thistle Chapel, Edinburgh
33.
Hebrides
–
The Hebrides comprise a widespread and diverse archipelago off the west coast of mainland Scotland. There are two groups, the Inner and Outer Hebrides. This diversity is reflected in the given to the islands. The Hebrides are the source of much of Scottish Gaelic literature, today the economy of the islands is dependent on crofting, fishing, tourism, the oil industry, and renewable energy. The Hebrides have lower biodiversity than mainland Britain, but there is a significant presence of seals, the Hebrides have a diverse geology ranging in age from Precambrian strata that are amongst the oldest rocks in Europe to Paleogene igneous intrusions. The Hebrides can be divided into two groups, separated from one another by the Minch to the north and the Sea of the Hebrides to the south. The Inner Hebrides lie closer to mainland Scotland and include Islay, Jura, Skye, Mull, Raasay, Staffa, there are 36 inhabited islands in this group. The Outer Hebrides are a chain of more than 100 islands, there are 15 inhabited islands in this archipelago. The main islands include Barra, Benbecula, Berneray, Harris, Lewis, North Uist, South Uist, in total, the islands have an area of approximately 7,200 square kilometres and a population of 44,759. A complication is that there are descriptions of the scope of the Hebrides. The Collins Encyclopedia of Scotland describes the Inner Hebrides as lying east of the Minch, there are various islands that lie in the sea lochs such as Eilean Bàn and Eilean Donan that might not ordinarily be described as Hebridean, but no formal definitions exist. In the past, the Outer Hebrides were often referred to as the Long Isle, today, they are also known as the Western Isles, although this phrase can also be used to refer to the Hebrides in general. The Hebrides have a temperate climate that is remarkably mild and steady for such a northerly latitude. In the Outer Hebrides the average temperature for the year is 6 °C in January and 14 °C in summer, the average annual rainfall in Lewis is 1,100 millimetres and sunshine hours range from 1,100 –1,200 per annum. The summer days are long, and May to August is the driest period. The Hebrides were settled during the Mesolithic era around 6500 BC or earlier, after the conditions improved enough to sustain human settlement. Occupation at a site on Rùm is dated to 8590 ±95 uncorrected radiocarbon years BP, there are many examples of structures from the Neolithic period, the finest example being the standing stones at Callanish, dating to the 3rd millennium BC. Cladh Hallan, a Bronze Age settlement on South Uist is the site in the UK where prehistoric mummies have been found
Hebrides
–
The
Caledonian MacBrayne ferry
MV Hebrides leaving
Lochmaddy for
Skye
Hebrides
–
The
Inner and
Outer Hebrides
Hebrides
–
Callanish stone circle
Hebrides
–
Kisimul Castle, the ancient seat of
Clan MacNeil,
Castlebay,
Barra
34.
Buckle
–
The buckle or clasp is a device used for fastening two loose ends, with one end attached to it and the other held by a catch in a secure but adjustable manner. Often taken for granted, the invention of the buckle has been indispensable in securing two ends before the invention of the zipper, the basic buckle frame comes in a variety of shapes and sizes depending on the intended use and fashion of the era. Buckles are as much in use today as they have been in the past, used for much more than just securing one’s belt, instead it is one of the most dependable devices in securing a range of items. The word buckle enters Middle English via Old French and the Latin buccula or cheek-strap, some of the earliest buckles known are those used by Roman soldiers to strap their body armor together and prominently on the balteus and cingulum. Made out of bronze and expensive, these buckles were purely functional for their strength and durability vital to the individual soldier. The baldric was a belt worn diagonally over the right shoulder down to the waist at the left carrying the sword. Bronze Roman buckles came in various types, not only used for practical purposes, these buckles were also decorated. A Type I Roman buckle was a “buckle-plate” either decorated or plain, Type IA Roman buckles were similar to Type I buckles but differed by being long and narrow, made of double sheet metal, and attached to small D-shaped buckles. Type IB “buckle-loops” were even more similar to Type IA buckles, only difference being that instead of dolphin-heads, they were adorned with horse-heads. There were also Type II buckles used by Romans, but all types of Roman buckles could have served purposes for simple clothing as well, aside from the practical use found in Roman buckles, Scythian and Sarmatian buckles incorporated animal motifs that were characteristic to their respective decorative arts. These motifs often represented animals engaged in mortal combat and these motifs were imported by many Germanic peoples and the belt buckles were evident in the graves of the Franks and Burgundies. And throughout the Middle Ages, the buckle was used mostly for ornamentation until the half of the 14th century where the knightly belt. The buckle essentially consists of four components, the frame, chape, bar. The oldest Roman buckles are of a simple D-shaped frame, in which the prong or tongue extends from one side to the other, in the 14th century, buckles with a double-loop or 8-shaped frame emerged. The prongs of these attach to the center post. The appearance of multi-part buckles with chapes and removable pins, which were found on shoes. The frame is the most visible part of the buckle and holds the parts of the buckle together. Buckle frames come in shapes, sizes, and decorations
Buckle
–
Snap-fit buckle on a belt
Buckle
–
Archeological bronze buckles from southern Sweden. The upper-left buckle is a simple frame-and-prong design, while the bottom buckle features an integrated chape or cap-end with a center pin attaching the frame.
35.
Merk (coin)
–
The merk was a Scottish silver coin. Originally the same word as a mark of silver, the merk was in circulation at the end of the 16th century. It was originally valued at 13s 4d, later raised to 14s Scots, in addition to merks, half-merk and quarter-merk coins were produced with values of, respectively, 7s and 3s 6d, as well as a four-merk coin of 56s. The first issue weighed 103.8 grains and was 50% silver and 50% base metals, thus it contained 0.108125 troy ounces of silver, markland or Merkland was used to describe an amount of land in Scottish deeds and legal papers. It was based upon a common valuation of the land
Merk (coin)
–
James VI: half merk or noble
36.
Animal style
–
Animal style art is an approach to decoration found from China to Northern Europe in the early Iron Age, and the barbarian art of the Migration Period, characterized by its emphasis on animal motifs. The zoomorphic style of decoration was used to small objects by warrior-herdsmen, whose economy was based entirely on animals. Scythian art makes use of energetic animal motifs, one component of the Scythian triad of weapons, horse-harness. These cultures were extremely influential in spreading many local versions of the style, steppe jewellery features various animals including stags, cats, birds, horses, bears, wolves and mythical beasts. The gold figures of stags in a position with legs tucked beneath its body, head upright. The looped antlers of most figures are a feature, not found in Chinese images of deer. The species represented has seemed to many scholars to be the reindeer, the largest of these were the central ornaments for shields, while others were smaller plaques probably attached to clothing. The stag appears to have had a significance for the steppes peoples. Another characteristic form is the openwork plaque including a tree over the scene at one side. Later large Greek-made pieces often include a zone showing Scythian men apparently going about their daily business, some scholars have attempted to attach narrative meanings to such scenes, but this remains speculative. Although gold was used by the ruling elite of the various Scythian tribes. The bulk of items were used to decorate horse harness. In some cases these bronze animal figures when sewn onto stiff leather jerkins & belts, the use of the animal form went further than just ornament, these seemingly imbuing the owner of the item with similar prowess and powers of the animal which was depicted. Thus the use of these forms extended onto the accoutrements of warfare, be they swords, daggers, scabbards, or axes. A distinct Permian style of bronze or copper alloy objects from around the 5th - 10th centuries CE are found near the Ural mountains, the study of Germanic zoomorphic decoration was pioneered by Bernhard Salin in a work published in 1904. Salin classified animal art from roughly 400 to 900 CE into three phases, Styles I and II are found widely across Europe in the art of the barbarian peoples during the Migration Period. First appearing in northwest Europe, first expressed with the introduction of the chip carving technique applied to bronze and it is characterized by animals whose bodies are divided into sections, and typically appear at the fringes of designs whose main emphasis is on abstract patterns. After about 560-570 Style I, declining, began to be supplanted, the animals become subsumed into ornamental patterns, typically interlace
Animal style
–
Ordos culture, belt buckle, 3rd-1st Century BC
Animal style
–
Purse cover from Sutton Hoo burial, 7th century, with Style II animals. British Museum: 1939,1010.2.a-l
Animal style
–
The influence of Scythian art:
Fibula in the Form of a Recumbent Stag (below), about 400 AD, Northeastern Europe, and Stag Plaque (above), 400-500 BC, Scythian, western Asia, gold
Animal style
–
Bronze idol of a
bear found in the
Perm Krai, 6th or 7th century.
37.
Smoky quartz
–
Smoky quartz is a grey, translucent variety of quartz. It ranges in clarity from almost complete transparency to a crystal that is almost opaque. Like other quartz gems, it is a silicon dioxide crystal, the smoky colour results from free silicon, formed from the silicon dioxide by natural irradiation. A very dark brown to black variety is known as morion. Morion is the German, Danish, Spanish and Polish synonym for smoky quartz, the name is from a misreading of mormorion in Pliny the Elder. Cairngorm is a variety of quartz crystal found in the Cairngorm Mountains of Scotland. It usually has a smokey yellow-brown colour, though some specimens are a grey-brown and it is used in Scottish jewellery and as a decoration on kilt pins and the handles of sgian dubhs. The largest known cairngorm crystal is a 23.6 kg specimen kept at Braemar Castle, Smoky quartz is common and was not historically important, but in recent times it has become a popular gemstone, especially for jewellery. Sunglasses, in the form of flat panes of smoky quartz, were used in China in the 12th century, the Cause of Color in Smoky Quartz and Amethyst in American Mineralologist, vol. 9, pp. 203–252 Mineral Galleries - smoky quartz
Smoky quartz
–
Smoky quartz
Smoky quartz
–
Smoky quartz found in a stream
Smoky quartz
–
Morion variety
38.
Pleat
–
A pleat is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place. It is commonly used in clothing and upholstery to gather a wide piece of fabric to a narrower circumference, pleats are categorized as pressed, that is, ironed or otherwise heat-set into a sharp crease, or unpressed, falling in soft rounded folds. Pleats sewn into place are called tucks, a vertically hanging piece of fabric such as a skirt or a drape will often be described in terms of its fullness. Accordion pleats or knife pleats are a form of tight pleating which allows the garment to expand its shape when moving. Accordion pleating is also used for some dress sleeves, such as pleating the end of the elbow and this form of pleating inspired the skirt dancing of Loie Fuller. Accordion pleats may also be used in hand fans, box pleats are knife pleats back-to-back, and have a tendency to spring out from the waistline. They have the same 3,1 ratio as knife pleats and these stacked box pleats create more fullness and have a 5,1 ratio. They also create a bulkier seam, inverted box pleats have the box on the inside rather than the outside. Cartridge pleats are used to gather a large amount of fabric into a small waistband or armscye without adding bulk to the seam and this type of pleating also allows the fabric of the skirt or sleeve to spring out from the seam. During the 15th and 16th centuries, this form of pleating was popular in the garments of men and women, Fabric is evenly gathered using two or more lengths of basting stitches, and the top of each pleat is whipstitched onto the waistband or armscye. Cartridge pleating was resurrected in 1840s fashion to attach the increasingly full bell-shaped skirts to the narrow waist. Fluted pleats or flutings are very small, rounded or pressed pleats used as trimmings, the name comes from their resemblance to a pan flute. Fortuny pleats are crisp pleats set in silk fabrics by designer Mariano Fortuny in the early 20th century, honeycomb pleats are narrow, rolled pleats used as a foundation for smocking. Kick pleats are short pleats leading upwards from the hem of garments such as skirts or coats. They allow the garment to drape straight down when stationary while allowing freedom of movement. Organ pleats are parallel rows of softly rounded pleats resembling the pipes of a pipe organ, carl Köhler suggests that these are made by inserting one or more gores into a panel of fabric. Plissé pleats are narrow pleats set by gathering fabric with stitches, wetting the fabric, linen chemises or smocks pleated with this technique have been found in the 10th century Viking graves in Birka. Rolled pleats create tubular pleats which run the length of the fabric from top to bottom, a piece of the fabric to be pleated is pinched and then rolled until it is flat against the rest of the fabric, forming a tube
Pleat
–
Girl's dress with accordion pleating from 1895
Pleat
–
Girl holding pleated skirt
Pleat
–
The knife pleat is the basic pleat used in sewing.
Pleat
–
Knife pleats with the construction and seam stitches shown.
39.
Belt (clothing)
–
A belt is a flexible band or strap, typically made of leather or heavy cloth, and worn around the waist. A belt supports trousers or other articles of clothing and it is an item of accessory. Belts have been documented as male clothing since the Bronze Age, both genders have used them off and on, depending on the current fashion. In the western world, belts have been common for men, with the exception of the early Middle Ages, late 17th century Mantua. Art Nouveau belt buckles are now collectors items, in the latter half of the 19th century and until the First World War, the belt was a decorative as well as utilitarian part of military uniform, particularly among officers. These tightly cinched belts served to draw in the waist and give the wearer a trim physique, emphasizing wide shoulders, in modern times, men started wearing belts in the 1920s, as trouser waists fell to a lower line. Before the 1920s, belts served mostly a decorative purpose, and were associated with the military, moreover, prior to that trousers did not even have belt loops. As sportswear, trousers with belt loops were already present in the 19th century, today it is common for men to wear a belt with their trousers. In some countries, especially the United States, a belt can be associated with corporal punishment. Moreover, belts are convenient disciplinary tools, as they are immediately available for use. The belt can symbolize fatherly authority and paternal responsibility for childrens behavior. Since the mid-1990s, the practice of sagging has been practised at times among young men and this practice is sometimes incorrectly believed to have originated with prison gangs and the prohibition of belts in prison. One specialized type of belt is the utility belt or Police duty belt, Police officers, soldiers, and repair personnel are typical roles which use this kind of belt. Duty belts are generally wider than dress belts, and are stiffer to provide for the carry of heavy items such as pistols. It is common practice for such a belt to be a symbol of authority or to indicate that the wearer is on duty. Such belts are worn even if no equipment is carried on them, a notable fictional example is Batmans utility belt. The obi is traditionally part of a Japanese kimono, a common sight in fantasy and role playing characters is the excessive use of belts in all different sizes on the characters person. Usually they are used for securing clothing or armor, but others just have several belts around the arms, legs, neck, waist, hips, sometimes they are used in place of eye patches or to decorate weapons
Belt (clothing)
–
A common, black leather leg belt.
Belt (clothing)
–
Pattern on a cloth belt that is part of one
Estonian national costume.
Belt (clothing)
–
A police officer's duty belt (not a leg belt).
40.
Inch
–
The inch is a unit of length in the imperial and United States customary systems of measurement now formally equal to 1⁄36 yard but usually understood as 1⁄12 of a foot. Derived from the Roman uncia, inch is also used to translate related units in other measurement systems. The English word inch was a borrowing from Latin uncia not present in other Germanic languages. The vowel change from Latin /u/ to English /ɪ/ is known as umlaut, the consonant change from the Latin /k/ to English /tʃ/ or /ʃ/ is palatalisation. Both were features of Old English phonology, inch is cognate with ounce, whose separate pronunciation and spelling reflect its reborrowing in Middle English from Anglo-Norman unce and ounce. In many other European languages, the word for inch is the same as or derived from the word for thumb, the inch is a commonly used customary unit of length in the United States, Canada, and the United Kingdom. It is also used in Japan for electronic parts, especially display screens, for example, three feet two inches can be written as 3′ 2″. Paragraph LXVII sets out the fine for wounds of various depths, one inch, one shilling, an Anglo-Saxon unit of length was the barleycorn. After 1066,1 inch was equal to 3 barleycorns, which continued to be its legal definition for several centuries, similar definitions are recorded in both English and Welsh medieval law tracts. One, dating from the first half of the 10th century, is contained in the Laws of Hywel Dda which superseded those of Dyfnwal, both definitions, as recorded in Ancient Laws and Institutes of Wales, are that three lengths of a barleycorn is the inch. However, the oldest surviving manuscripts date from the early 14th century, john Bouvier similarly recorded in his 1843 law dictionary that the barleycorn was the fundamental measure. He noted that this process would not perfectly recover the standard, before the adoption of the international yard and pound, various definitions were in use. In the United Kingdom and most countries of the British Commonwealth, the United States adopted the conversion factor 1 metre =39.37 inches by an act in 1866. In 1930, the British Standards Institution adopted an inch of exactly 25.4 mm, the American Standards Association followed suit in 1933. By 1935, industry in 16 countries had adopted the industrial inch as it came to be known, in 1946, the Commonwealth Science Congress recommended a yard of exactly 0.9144 metres for adoption throughout the British Commonwealth. This was adopted by Canada in 1951, the United States on 1 July 1959, Australia in 1961, effective 1 January 1964, and the United Kingdom in 1963, effective on 1 January 1964. The new standards gave an inch of exactly 25.4 mm,1.7 millionths of a longer than the old imperial inch and 2 millionths of an inch shorter than the old US inch. The United States retains the 1/39. 37-metre definition for survey purposes and this is approximately 1/8-inch in a mile
Inch
–
Measuring tape calibrated in 32nds of an inch
Inch
–
Mid-19th century tool for converting between different standards of the inch
41.
Red coral
–
Precious coral or red coral is the common name given to Corallium rubrum and several related species of marine coral. The distinguishing characteristic of precious corals is their durable and intensely colored red or pink skeleton, red corals grow on rocky seabottom with low sedimentation, typically in dark environments—either in the depths or in dark caverns or crevices. The original species, C. rubrum, is mainly in the Mediterranean Sea. It grows at depths from 10 to 300 meters below sea level, in the underwater caves of Alghero, Sardinia it grows at depth from 4 to 35 meters. The same species is found at Atlantic sites near the Strait of Gibraltar, at the Cape Verde Islands. Other Corallium species are native to the western Pacific, notably around Japan and Taiwan, in common with other Alcyonacea, red corals have the shape of small leafless bushes and grow up to a meter in height. Their valuable skeleton is composed of intermeshed spicules of calcium carbonate. In living specimens, the branches are overlaid with soft bright red integument. The polyps exhibit radial symmetry. The following are species in the genus, The hard skeleton of red coral branches is naturally matte. It exhibits a range of reddish pink colors from pale pink to deep red. Owing to its intense and permanent coloration and glossiness, precious coral skeletons have been harvested since antiquity for decorative use, Coral jewellery has been found in ancient Egyptian and prehistoric European burials, and continues to be made to the present day. It was especially popular during the Victorian age, precious coral has relative density of 3.86 and hardness 3.5 on the Mohs scale. Due to its softness and opacity, coral is usually cut en cabochon, among the Romans, branches of coral were hung around childrens necks to preserve them from danger, and the substance had many medicinal virtues attributed to it. The belief in corals potency as a charm continued throughout the Middle Ages and early in 20th century Italy it was worn as a protection from the evil eye, and by women as a cure for infertility. From the Middle Ages onwards, the securing of the right to the coral fisheries off the African coasts was the object of considerable rivalry among the Mediterranean communities of Europe. The story of the Torre del Greco is so interwoven with that of the coral so as to constitute an inseparable pair, in 1790 the Royal Society of Coral was established in the town of Torre del Greco, with the idea of working and selling coral fish. This shows that the coral fishing flourished for many years in the city
Red coral
–
Precious coral
Red coral
–
The Queen
Farida of Egypt red coral
parure by Ascione, made in 1938 in Naples,
Coral Jewellery Museum
Red coral
–
Chinese coral sculpture. Gift of Mr and Mrs Charles D. Field, 1988 and gift of Alice Meyer Buck, 1968.
Red coral
–
Non precious red dyed sponge coral
earrings.
42.
Sleeve
–
A sleeve is the part of a garment that covers the arm, or through which the arm passes or slips. The pattern of the sleeve is one of the characteristics of fashion in dress, varying in every country, various survivals of the early forms of sleeve are still found in the different types of academic or other robes. Where the long hanging sleeve is worn it has, as still in China and Japan, been used as a pocket, whence has come the phrase to have up ones sleeve, to have something concealed ready to produce. There are many other proverbial and metaphorical expressions associated with the sleeve, such as to ones heart upon ones sleeve. Sleeve length varies from barely over the shoulder to floor-length, most contemporary shirt sleeves end somewhere between the mid-upper arm and the wrist. Early medieval sleeves were cut straight, and underarm triangle-shaped gussets were used to ease of movement. In the 14th century, the sleeve cap was invented. Often the names applied to sleeves in historical costume are modern, oxford English Dictionary Picken, Mary Brooks, The Fashion Dictionary, Funk and Wagnalls,1957. Media related to Sleeves at Wikimedia Commons
Sleeve
–
Actress
Mabel Love in an outfit with leg o' mutton (gigot) sleeves in 1919
Sleeve
–
Batwing sleeve
Sleeve
–
Bishop sleeve
Sleeve
–
Gigot or leg o'mutton sleeve
43.
Waistcoat
–
A waistcoat is a sleeveless upper-body garment. It is usually worn over a shirt and necktie and below a coat as a part of most mens formal wear. It is also sported as the piece in the traditional three-piece male business suit. A waistcoat has a vertical opening in the front, which fastens with buttons or snaps. Both single-breasted and double-breasted waistcoats exist, regardless of the formality of dress, in a three piece suit, the cloth used matches the jacket and trousers. Waistcoats can also have lapels or revers depending on the style, before wristwatches became popular, gentlemen kept their pocket watches in the front waistcoat pocket, with the watch on a watch chain threaded through a buttonhole. Sometimes an extra hole was made in line with the buttonholes for this use, a bar on the end of the chain held it in place to catch the chain if it were dropped or pulled. Waistcoats are now worn less, so the pocket watch may more likely be stored in a trouser pocket, wearing a belt with a waistcoat, and indeed any suit, is not traditional. To give a more comfortable hang to the trousers, the waistcoat instead covers a pair of braces underneath it, a custom still sometimes practised is to leave the bottom button undone. This is said to have started by King Edward VII. Variations on this include that he forgot to fasten the lower button when dressing and it has also been suggested that the practice originated to prevent the waistcoat riding up when on horseback. This convention only applies to single-breasted day waistcoats and not double breasted, evening, waistcoats worn with lounge suits normally match the suit in cloth, and have four to six buttons. Double breasted waistcoats are rare compared to single, as formalwear, it used to be common to wear a contrastingly coloured waistcoat, such as in buff or dove linen. This is still seen in morning dress, which requires a waistcoat, the waistcoats worn with white- and black- tie are different from standard daytime single-breasted waistcoats, being much lower in cut. The variant of the clergy cassock may be cut as a vest and it differs in style from other waistcoats in that the garment buttons to the neck and has an opening that displays the clerical collar. In the Church of England, a particular High Church clerical vest introduced in the 1830s was nicknamed the M. B, waistcoat with M. B. standing for the Mark of the Beast. In the Girl Scouts of the USA, vests are used as an alternative to the sash for the display of badges, in many stock exchanges, traders who engage in open outcry may wear colored sleeveless waistcoats, or trading jackets, with insignia on the back. The waistcoat is one of the few articles of clothing whose origin historians can date precisely, King Charles II of England, Scotland and Ireland introduced the waistcoat as a part of correct dress after the Restoration of the British monarchy in 1660
Waistcoat
–
A traditional waistcoat, to be worn with a two-piece suit or separate jacket and trousers.
Waistcoat
–
A young man wearing a modern waistcoat.
Waistcoat
–
Woman in a modern
denim waistcoat.
Waistcoat
–
Cardinal
Tarcisio Bertone wearing a
cassock vest with a
clerical collar.
44.
Button
–
In modern clothing and fashion design, a button is a small fastener, now most commonly made of plastic, but also frequently of metal, wood or seashell, which secures two pieces of fabric together. In archaeology, a button can be a significant artifact, in the applied arts and in craft, a button can be an example of folk art, studio craft, or even a miniature work of art. Buttons are most often attached to articles of clothing but can also be used on such as wallets. However, buttons may be sewn onto garments and similar items exclusively for purposes of ornamentation, buttons serving as fasteners work by slipping through a fabric or thread loop, or by sliding through a buttonhole. Other types of fastenings include zippers, Velcro and magnets, buttons made from seashell were used in the Indus Valley Civilization for ornamental purposes by 2000 BCE. Some buttons were carved into geometric shapes and had holes pierced into them so that they could be attached to clothing with thread. Ian McNeil holds that, The button, in fact, was used more as an ornament than as a fastening. It is made of a shell and about 5000 years old. Functional buttons with buttonholes for fastening or closing clothes appeared first in Germany in the 13th century and they soon became widespread with the rise of snug-fitting garments in 13th- and 14th-century Europe. At least one modern smuggler has tried to use this method, also making use of the storage possibilities of metal buttons, during the World Wars, British and U. S. military locket buttons were made, containing miniature working compasses. Buttons can be crafted by artisans, craftspeople or artists from raw materials or found objects. Alternatively, they can be the product of low-tech cottage industry or can be mass-produced in high-tech factories, buttons made by artists are art objects, known to button collectors as studio buttons. Vegetable ivory was said to be the most popular for suits and shirts, nowadays, hard plastic, seashell, metals, and wood are the most common materials used in button-making, the others tending to be used only in premium or antique apparel, or found in collections. Over 60% of the worlds supply comes from Qiaotou, Yongjia County. Flat or sew-through buttons have holes through which thread is sewn to attach the button, flat buttons may be attached by sewing machine rather than by hand, and may be used with heavy fabrics by working a thread shank to extend the height of the button above the fabric. Popular examples of such buttons are shirt studs and cufflinks, Snap fasteners are metal round discs pinched through the fabric. They are often found on clothing, in particular on denim pieces such as pants and jackets and they are more securely fastened to the material. As they rely on a metal rivet attached securely to the fabric and they are made of two couples, the male stud couple and the female stud couple
Button
–
Brass buttons from a the uniform of a Danish
WWI artillery lieutenant
Button
–
Modern buttons made from
vegetable ivory
Button
–
Three plastic sew-through buttons (left) and one shank, fabric-covered button (right)
Button
45.
Linen
–
Linen /ˈlɪnᵻn/ is a textile made from the fibers of the flax plant. Linen is laborious to manufacture, but the fiber is very absorbent, many products are made of linen, aprons, bags, towels, napkins, bed linens, tablecloths, runners, chair covers, and mens and womens wear. The word linen is of West Germanic origin and cognate to the Latin name for the plant, linum. This word history has given rise to a number of terms in English, most notably line. Textiles in a linen weave texture, even made of cotton, hemp. Such fabrics generally also have their own names, for example fine cotton yarn in a linen-style weave is called Madapolam. The collective term linens is still used generically to describe a class of woven or knitted bed, bath, table. The inner layer of fine composite cloth garments was traditionally made of linen, Linen textiles appear to be some of the oldest in the world, their history goes back many thousands of years. Fragments of straw, seeds, fibers, yarns, and various types of dating to about 8000 BC have been found in Swiss lake dwellings. Dyed flax fibers found in a cave in Georgia suggest the use of woven linen fabrics from wild flax may date back even earlier to 36,000 BP. Linen was sometimes used as currency in ancient Egypt, egyptian mummies were wrapped in linen as a symbol of light and purity, and as a display of wealth. Some of these fabrics, woven from hand-spun yarns, were fine for their day. In 1923 the German city Bielefeld issued banknotes printed on linen, today, linen is usually an expensive textile produced in relatively small quantities. It has a long staple relative to cotton and other natural fibers, the word linen is derived from the Latin for the flax plant, which is linum, and the earlier Greek λίνον. The discovery of dyed flax fibers in a cave in Georgia dated to thirty-six thousand years ago suggests that ancient people used wild flax fibers to create linen-like fabrics from an early date, in ancient Mesopotamia, flax was domesticated and linen was first produced. It was used mainly by the class of the society. The Sumerian poem of the courtship of Inanna and Dumuzi, translated by Samuel Noah Kramer and Diane Wolkstein and published in 1983, mentions flax and linen. It opens with briefly listing the steps of preparing linen from flax, in a form of questions, in ancient Egypt, linen was used for mummification and for burial shrouds
Linen
–
A linen
handkerchief with
drawn thread work around the edges
Linen
–
Linen cloth recovered from
Qumran Cave 1 near the
Dead Sea
Linen
–
Diocletian 's 4th century maximum prices edict showing prices for 3 grades of linen across the
Roman Empire
Linen
–
Details of the flax plant, from which linen fibers are derived
46.
Ribband
–
A ribbon or riband is a thin band of material, typically cloth but also plastic or sometimes metal, used primarily as decorative binding and tying. Cloth ribbons are made of materials such as silk, velvet, cotton, and jute and of synthetic materials, such as polyester, nylon. Ribbon is used for innumerable useful, ornamental, and symbolic purposes, cultures around the world use ribbon in their hair, around the body, and as ornamentation on non-human animals, buildings, and packaging. Some popular fabrics used to make ribbons are satin, organza, sheer, silk, velvet, the word ribbon comes from Middle English ribban or riban from Old French ruban, which is probably of Germanic origin. Along with that of tapes, fringes, and other smallwares, the essential feature of a ribbon loom is the simultaneous weaving in one loom frame of two or more webs, going up to as many as forty narrow fabrics in modern looms. A loom in which several narrow webs could be woven at one time is mentioned as having working in Dantzig towards the end of the 16th century. Similar looms were at work in Leiden in 1620, where their use gave rise to so much discontent and rioting on the part of the weavers that the states-general had to prohibit their use. The prohibition was renewed at intervals throughout the century. In 1676, under the name of the Dutch loom or engine loom, it was brought to London, in 1745, John Kay, the inventor of the fly-shuttle, obtained, conjointly with Joseph Stell, a patent for improvements in the ribbon loom. Since that period, it has benefited by the applied to weaving machinery generally. Ribbon-weaving is known to have been established near St. Etienne as early as the 11th century, and that town has remained the headquarters of the industry. During the Huguenot troubles, ribbon-weavers from St. Etienne settled at Basel, krefeld is the centre of the German ribbon industry, the manufacture of black velvet ribbon being there a specialty. In England Coventry is the most important seat of ribbon-making, which is also prosecuted at Norwich and Leicester. While satin and other sorts of ribbon have always used in lingerie. This upsurge led to increased ribbon manufacturing as well as new, presently, the North American continent remains the largest importer of ribbon and ribbon derivative products. Inspired by European silk ribbons obtained through trade, Great Lakes, typewriters and dot matrix printers use a cloth or plastic ribbon to hold the ink. Pieces of ribbon are used as symbols of support or awareness for social causes and are called awareness ribbons. Ribbons are used in ceremonies, such as in a ribbon cutting ceremony
Ribband
–
Ribbons
47.
Yard
–
The yard is an English unit of length, in both the British imperial and US customary systems of measurement, that comprises 3 feet or 36 inches. It is by international agreement in 1959 standardized as exactly 0.9144 meters, a metal yardstick originally formed the physical standard from which all other units of length were officially derived in both English systems. In the 19th and 20th centuries, increasingly powerful microscopes and scientific measurement detected variation in these prototype yards which became significant as technology improved. In 1959, the United States, United Kingdom, Australia, New Zealand, the name derives from the Old English gerd, gyrd, &c. which was used for branches, staves, and measuring rods. It is first attested in the late-7th century laws of Ine of Wessex, where the yard of land mentioned is the yardland, an old English unit of tax assessment equal to 1⁄4 hide. Around the same time, the Lindisfarne Gospels account of the messengers from John the Baptist in the Book of Matthew used it for a branch swayed by the wind. In addition to the yardland, Old and Middle English both used their forms of yard to denote the lengths of 15 or 16 1⁄2 ft used in computing acres. A unit of three English feet is attested in a statute of c. 1300 but there it is called an ell, the use of the word yard to describe this length is first attested in Langlands poem on Piers Plowman. The usage seems to derive from the prototype standard rods held by the king, the word yard is a homonym of yard in the sense of an enclosed area of land. This second meaning of yard has a related to the verb to gird and is probably not related. The origin of the measure is uncertain, both the Romans and the Welsh used multiples of a shorter foot, but 2 1⁄2 Roman feet was a step and 3 Welsh feet was a pace. The Proto-Germanic cubit or arms-length has been reconstructed as *alinâ, which developed into the Old English ęln, Middle English elne and this has led some to derive the yard of three English feet from pacing, others from the ell or cubit, others from Henry Is arm standard. Based on the etymology of the yard, others suggest it originally derived from the girth of a persons waist. But the yard was the standard adopted by the early English soverigns. The yard continued till the reign of Henry VII. when the ell was introduced, that being a yard, the ell was borrowed from the Paris drapers. Subsequently, however, Queen Elizabeth re-introduced the yard as the English standard of measure, the earliest record of a prototype measure is the statute II Edgar Cap. 8, which survives in several variant manuscripts, in it, Edgar the Peaceful directed the Witenagemot at Andover that the measure held at Winchester should be observed throughout his realm. The statutes of William I similarly refer to and uphold the measures of his predecessors without naming them
Yard
–
The informal public
imperial measurement standards erected at the
Royal Observatory,
Greenwich,
London, in the 19th century: 1
British yard, 2
feet, 1
foot, 6
inches, and 3
inches. The inexact monument was designed to permit rods of the correct measure to fit snuggly into its pins at an ambient temperature of 62
°F (16 2 ⁄ 3
°C).
Yard
–
Bronze Yard №11, the official standard of length for the
United States between 1855 and 1892, when the
Treasury Department formally adopted a metric standard. Bronze Yard №11 was forged to be an exact copy of the British Imperial Standard Yard held by
Parliament. Both are line standards: the yard was defined by the distance at 62
°F between two fine lines drawn on
gold plugs (closeup, top) installed in recesses near each end of the bar.
Yard
–
Two yardsticks, used for measuring "yard goods"
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